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COASTAL DEFENCES
COASTAL
DEFENCES
Prof. Dr. H.Z. Harraz Presentation
COASTAL DEFENCES
There are many techniques used for reducing the power of
waves before they erode a coastline. The photos illustrate
some methods used in areas of weak rocks in Britain and
France.
• Rip-rap is a sheet of boulders used at the toe of a slope to
add weight and break the force of the waves. Rip-rap is
made of resistant rocks, often gabbro, dolerite, granite or
gneiss, which will not weather or break down. Because the
blocks are angular, they fit together tightly, but still allow
water to drain through back to the sea.
• Concrete walls are usually slightly curved at the top so that
waves are deflected slightly so that water is returned to the
sea. They may have drainage holes so that any water which
overtops the wall can drain back into the beach.
@ Hassan Z. Harraz
COASTAL DEFENCES
• Concrete shapes can be arranged to nest together so that
they are wedged tightly enough not to be moved by large
waves. They allow water to drain back to the beach and
also allow sand to build up around them, which helps to
stop sand from washing out to sea.
• Geotextiles can fix slopes which have been reduced in
angle and encourage vegetation to grow back. Marram
grass grows in pure sand, has very long roots and can
cope with waves and dry conditions.
• Offshore breakwaters break the force of the waves and
ensure that wave energy is dispersed. They also allow
the build-up of sand in the low energy areas next to the
shore.
@ Hassan Z. Harraz
Le Croisic, Brittany
This coastline is made
of schists which are
very unresistant and
easily eroded by the
sea.
@ Hassan Z. Harraz
Le Croisic, Brittany
The houses are protected from the sea by rip-rap -
large boulders of resistant rock brought from
outside the area. They absorb the energy of the
waves but are permeable so that water can drain
through them back to the sea.
@ Hassan Z. Harraz
Le Croisic, Brittany
Some houses have had to build their own sea defences.
Walls take up little land area, but need to be slightly
curved towards the top to absorb wave energy. This
one has drainage holes to allow water from the garden
behind to drain onto the beach, to reduce water
pressure on the wall.
Drainage holesCurved
profile
@ Hassan Z. Harraz
Rip-rap
Quartzite is highly resistant to physical and chemical weathering, so it does well in
applications like this rip-rap
@ Hassan Z. Harraz
Le Croisic, Brittany
Le Croisic, Brittany
This house has a concrete and stone wall,
with a drainage channel running down one
side.
Drainage
channel
@ Hassan Z. Harraz
Le Croisic, Brittany
The part of the coast was in the process of being
reinforced with a wall of rip-rap. Beyond the wall was
a grassy area with geotextiles and plants to reduce
further the force of the waves.
RIP-RAP
Area of soft
rocks which
needed to be
reinforced.
@ Hassan Z. Harraz
BGS
map of
coastal
erosion The
Wirral
St
Bees
BGS Britain beneath
our Feet
Holderness
coast
@ Hassan Z. Harraz
Geology
map of
the Wirral
The Wirral is
made of Triassic
and Permian red
desert sediments,
covered by glacial
till. Both rocks
are very
susceptible to
marine erosion.
The Wirral
Most of the sea-defences consist of corrugated concrete slabs.
They are ridged to absorb energy and slow the swash and
backwash. They are in slabs, rather than continuously poured
concrete, to allow replacement of any damaged section.
@ Hassan Z. Harraz
The Wirral
Access for visitors to the beach is down gently sloping ramps,
which are also designed to allow water to return easily to the sea
if waves break over the top of the banking onto the pathway.
@ Hassan Z. Harraz
The Wirral
The ramps are also supported by shaped concrete
blocks which cause the waves to break early. The
swash and backwash can move in a controlled way
up and down the banking.
The Wirral
Interlocking concrete blocks which absorb wave energy are
used in places, and are strong, cheap and effective. The
path beyond the coast is additionally protected by rip-rap.
@ Hassan Z. Harraz
The Wirral
RIP-RAP
Sand has been encouraged to
build up around the rip-rap to
produce additional weight and
support vegetation, which
absorbs more energy.
@ Hassan Z. Harraz
Coastal Defences
The Wirral
The old sea-wall is
sculptured to reflect
the waves back to
the sea.
@ Hassan Z. Harraz
Offshore breakwaters can be built to
reduce the energy of waves in the bay.
Offshore breakwaters can be built to
reduce the energy of waves in the bay.
The Wirral
Offshore breakwaters
reduce wave energy
and help sand to
build up to protect
the coast.
Build up of
sand behind the
breakwater
St Bees Head, Lake District
St Bees Head, Lake District
Glacial till is very unresistant to
wave action so serious erosion
threatens houses and the golf
course. Rip-rap has been added
to the toe of the cliff.
Glacial till
@ Hassan Z. Harraz
St Bees Head, Lake District
St Bees Head, Lake District
Geotextiles help to support the
glacial till slope so that vegetation
can establish itself.
Slope angle has
been reduced
Rip-rap
Glacial till cliffs
@ Hassan Z. Harraz
The Holderness coast from Bridlington to Spurn Point is
made from Pleistocene glacial till, which is very unresistant to
marine erosion and mass movement slope processes.
Glacial till cliffs suffering undercutting at high tides and in storms.
@ Hassan Z. Harraz
There are various types of coastal defences
along the 50km length of the Holderness coast.
Rip-rap
Breakwaters defend
vulnerable areas
@ Hassan Z. Harraz
A great variety of sea defences have been used here,
just south of Withernsea, near Spurn Point.
Concrete walls stretching
half the height of the cliff
Breakwaters
Glacial till slumps are
protected by rip-rap.
Breakwaters supported by large boulders
The land-use at the top of the cliff is a caravan site. The
caravans can be moved backwards if they are threatened
by undercutting.
Boulders used to support a weak
stretch of cliff in Cornwall
Boulders have been used to support
a weak stretch of cliff in Cornwall.
@ Hassan Z. Harraz
Rip-rap
There are many techniques used for reducing the
power of waves before they erode a coastline.
Rip-rap is a sheet of boulders used at the toe of a
slope to add weight and break the force of the waves.
Rip-rap is made of highly resistant rocks to physical and
chemical weathering, often Basalt, Gabbro, Dolerite,
Quartzite, Granite, or Gneiss, which will not weather or
break down.
Because the blocks are angular, they fit together
tightly, but still allow water to drain through back to
the sea.
@ Hassan Z. Harraz
@ Hassan Z. Harraz
@ Hassan Z. Harraz
Rip-rap
@ Hassan Z. Harraz
@ Hassan Z. Harraz
@ Hassan Z. Harraz
R4-large
@ Hassan Z. Harraz
ROCK JETTY
@ Hassan Z. Harraz
THE END THE END
Thanks to Ian Kenyon for photos of
Cornwall cliffs and sea.

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Coastal defences

  • 2. COASTAL DEFENCES There are many techniques used for reducing the power of waves before they erode a coastline. The photos illustrate some methods used in areas of weak rocks in Britain and France. • Rip-rap is a sheet of boulders used at the toe of a slope to add weight and break the force of the waves. Rip-rap is made of resistant rocks, often gabbro, dolerite, granite or gneiss, which will not weather or break down. Because the blocks are angular, they fit together tightly, but still allow water to drain through back to the sea. • Concrete walls are usually slightly curved at the top so that waves are deflected slightly so that water is returned to the sea. They may have drainage holes so that any water which overtops the wall can drain back into the beach. @ Hassan Z. Harraz
  • 3. COASTAL DEFENCES • Concrete shapes can be arranged to nest together so that they are wedged tightly enough not to be moved by large waves. They allow water to drain back to the beach and also allow sand to build up around them, which helps to stop sand from washing out to sea. • Geotextiles can fix slopes which have been reduced in angle and encourage vegetation to grow back. Marram grass grows in pure sand, has very long roots and can cope with waves and dry conditions. • Offshore breakwaters break the force of the waves and ensure that wave energy is dispersed. They also allow the build-up of sand in the low energy areas next to the shore. @ Hassan Z. Harraz
  • 4. Le Croisic, Brittany This coastline is made of schists which are very unresistant and easily eroded by the sea. @ Hassan Z. Harraz
  • 5. Le Croisic, Brittany The houses are protected from the sea by rip-rap - large boulders of resistant rock brought from outside the area. They absorb the energy of the waves but are permeable so that water can drain through them back to the sea. @ Hassan Z. Harraz
  • 6. Le Croisic, Brittany Some houses have had to build their own sea defences. Walls take up little land area, but need to be slightly curved towards the top to absorb wave energy. This one has drainage holes to allow water from the garden behind to drain onto the beach, to reduce water pressure on the wall. Drainage holesCurved profile @ Hassan Z. Harraz
  • 7. Rip-rap Quartzite is highly resistant to physical and chemical weathering, so it does well in applications like this rip-rap @ Hassan Z. Harraz
  • 8. Le Croisic, Brittany Le Croisic, Brittany This house has a concrete and stone wall, with a drainage channel running down one side. Drainage channel @ Hassan Z. Harraz
  • 9. Le Croisic, Brittany The part of the coast was in the process of being reinforced with a wall of rip-rap. Beyond the wall was a grassy area with geotextiles and plants to reduce further the force of the waves. RIP-RAP Area of soft rocks which needed to be reinforced. @ Hassan Z. Harraz
  • 10. BGS map of coastal erosion The Wirral St Bees BGS Britain beneath our Feet Holderness coast @ Hassan Z. Harraz
  • 11. Geology map of the Wirral The Wirral is made of Triassic and Permian red desert sediments, covered by glacial till. Both rocks are very susceptible to marine erosion.
  • 12. The Wirral Most of the sea-defences consist of corrugated concrete slabs. They are ridged to absorb energy and slow the swash and backwash. They are in slabs, rather than continuously poured concrete, to allow replacement of any damaged section. @ Hassan Z. Harraz
  • 13. The Wirral Access for visitors to the beach is down gently sloping ramps, which are also designed to allow water to return easily to the sea if waves break over the top of the banking onto the pathway. @ Hassan Z. Harraz
  • 14. The Wirral The ramps are also supported by shaped concrete blocks which cause the waves to break early. The swash and backwash can move in a controlled way up and down the banking.
  • 15. The Wirral Interlocking concrete blocks which absorb wave energy are used in places, and are strong, cheap and effective. The path beyond the coast is additionally protected by rip-rap. @ Hassan Z. Harraz
  • 16. The Wirral RIP-RAP Sand has been encouraged to build up around the rip-rap to produce additional weight and support vegetation, which absorbs more energy. @ Hassan Z. Harraz Coastal Defences
  • 17. The Wirral The old sea-wall is sculptured to reflect the waves back to the sea. @ Hassan Z. Harraz
  • 18. Offshore breakwaters can be built to reduce the energy of waves in the bay. Offshore breakwaters can be built to reduce the energy of waves in the bay.
  • 19. The Wirral Offshore breakwaters reduce wave energy and help sand to build up to protect the coast. Build up of sand behind the breakwater
  • 20. St Bees Head, Lake District St Bees Head, Lake District Glacial till is very unresistant to wave action so serious erosion threatens houses and the golf course. Rip-rap has been added to the toe of the cliff. Glacial till @ Hassan Z. Harraz
  • 21. St Bees Head, Lake District St Bees Head, Lake District Geotextiles help to support the glacial till slope so that vegetation can establish itself. Slope angle has been reduced Rip-rap Glacial till cliffs @ Hassan Z. Harraz
  • 22. The Holderness coast from Bridlington to Spurn Point is made from Pleistocene glacial till, which is very unresistant to marine erosion and mass movement slope processes. Glacial till cliffs suffering undercutting at high tides and in storms. @ Hassan Z. Harraz
  • 23. There are various types of coastal defences along the 50km length of the Holderness coast. Rip-rap Breakwaters defend vulnerable areas @ Hassan Z. Harraz
  • 24. A great variety of sea defences have been used here, just south of Withernsea, near Spurn Point. Concrete walls stretching half the height of the cliff Breakwaters Glacial till slumps are protected by rip-rap. Breakwaters supported by large boulders The land-use at the top of the cliff is a caravan site. The caravans can be moved backwards if they are threatened by undercutting.
  • 25. Boulders used to support a weak stretch of cliff in Cornwall Boulders have been used to support a weak stretch of cliff in Cornwall. @ Hassan Z. Harraz
  • 26. Rip-rap There are many techniques used for reducing the power of waves before they erode a coastline. Rip-rap is a sheet of boulders used at the toe of a slope to add weight and break the force of the waves. Rip-rap is made of highly resistant rocks to physical and chemical weathering, often Basalt, Gabbro, Dolerite, Quartzite, Granite, or Gneiss, which will not weather or break down. Because the blocks are angular, they fit together tightly, but still allow water to drain through back to the sea. @ Hassan Z. Harraz
  • 27. @ Hassan Z. Harraz
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  • 34. ROCK JETTY @ Hassan Z. Harraz
  • 35. THE END THE END Thanks to Ian Kenyon for photos of Cornwall cliffs and sea.