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10/27/13 TEXTILE CALCULATIONS
file:///D:/textile cal/TEXCALTEXT detail.mht 1/15
TEXTILE CALCULATIONS
FIBRE FINENESS, YARN COUNTS AND CONVERSIONS
Micronaire Value (Cotton) : The unit is micrograms per inch. The average weight of one inch
length of fibre, expressed in micrograms(0.000001 gram).
Denier (Man-Made Fibres) : Weight in grams per 9000 meters of fibre.
Micron (Wool) : Fineness is expressed as fibre diameter in microns(0.001mm)
Conversions:
· Denier = 0.354 x Micronaire value
· Micronaire value = 2.824 x Denier
YARN COUNTS
It is broadly classified into;
1. DIRECT SYSTEM
2. INDIRECT SYSTEM
INDIRECT SYSTEM
· English count (Ne)
· French count(Nf)
· Metric count(Nm)
· Worsted count
Metric system: Metric count(Nm) indicates the number of 1 kilometer(1000 meter) lengths per
Kg.
Nm = length in Km / weight in kg (or)
Nm = length meter / weight in grams
DIRECT SYSTEM
· Tex count
· Denier
10/27/13 TEXTILE CALCULATIONS
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CONVERSION TABLE FOR YARN COUNTS
Tex Den Nm Grains/yd
Tex den/9 1000/Nm gr.yd x 70.86
Ne 590.54/tex 5314.9/den Nm x .5905 8.33 / gr/yd
Den tex x 9 9000/Nm gr/yd x 637.7
Nm 1000/tex 9000/den 14.1 / gr/yd
Grains/yd tex / 70.86 den / 637.7 14.1/Nm
Where, Nm – metric count, Nec – cotton count
CONVERSION TABLE FOR WEIGHTS
Ounce Grains Grams Kilograms Pounds
Ounce 437.5 grains 28.350 grams
Grains
0.03527
ounces
0.0648 grams
Grams 0.03527 grains 15.432 grains 0.001 kgs
Kilograms 35.274 ounces 15432 grains 1000 grams
2.2046
pounds
Pounds 16.0 ounces 7000 grains 453.59 grams 0.4536 kgs
CONVERSION TABLE FOR LINEAR MEASURES
Yard Feet Inches Centimeter Meter
Yard 3 feet 36 inches 91.44 cms
0.9144
meter
Feet 0.3333 yards 12 inches 30.48 cms
0.3048
meter
Inches 0.0278 yards 0.0833 feet 2.54 cms
0.254
meter
Centimeter 0.0109 yards 0.0328 feet 0.3937 inches 0.01meter
Meter 1.0936 yards 3.281 feet 39.37 inches 100 cms
CALCULATIONS
Grams per meter = 0.5905 / Ne
Grams per yard = 0.54 / Ne
Tex = den x .11 = 1000/Nm = Mic/25.4
Ne = Nm/1.693
DRAFT = (feed weight in g/m) / (delivery weight in g/m)
DRAFT = Tex (feed) / Tex(delivery)
DRAFT = delivery roll surface speed / feed roll surface speed
No of hanks delivered by m/c = (Length delivered in m/min) / 1.605
10/27/13 TEXTILE CALCULATIONS
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BLOW ROOM
% trash in cotton - % trash in lap
(1) Blow-room Cleaning Efficiency% (CE) = -------------------------------------------
% trash in cotton
(2) Lint in waste (%) = 100 - CE
CARDING
(1) P =( L x 1.0936 x 60 x Effy ) / (Hank (Ne) x 36 x 840 x 2.2045)
P - production in kgs / hr
L - delivery speed in m/min
effy- efficiency
Ne - English count ( number of 840 yards in one pound)
840 - constant
2.2045- to convert from lbs to kilograms
(2) Production In Kgs / Hr = (L x Ktex x 60 x Effy) / ( 1000)
L - delivery speed in m/min
Ktex- sliver count in Ktex (kilotex)
effy - efficiency
1000- to convert to kilograms from grams
(3) Production In Kgs / 8 Hrs = (0.2836 x L x Effy) / (Ne)
L - delivery speed in m/min
effy - efficiency
Ne - English count
(4) Prodn / 8 Hrs = (Hank x Nd) /( Ne x 2.2045)
Hank = no of hank (840 yards)delivered by the machine
Nd = no of deliveries
Ne = hank of the material
(5) Total Draft in Card = (Feed Weight in g/m) / (Sliver Weight in g/m)
10/27/13 TEXTILE CALCULATIONS
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Wt. per yard of lap fed
(6) Actual draft = ------------------------------------------------
Wt. per yard of card sliver delivered
Length of card sliver delivered
(7) Mechanical draft = ----------------------------------------
Length of lap fed
or
Draft constant of card machine
= ------------------------------------------
Draft change pinion
(8) Actual draft is always greater than the mechanical draft in carding because it is the
carding waste% that increases the actual draft.
DRAWFRAME
(1) Break Draft = Surface Speed of 2nd Roller / Surface Speed of Back Roller
(2) Main Draft = Surface Speed of 1st Roller / Surface Speed of 2nd (Middle)
Roller
(3) Total Draft = Surface speed of delivery roller / surface of feed roller
(4) Production In Kgs / 8 Hrs = (0.2836 x L x Effy x Nd) / (Ne)
L - delivery speed in m/min
effy - efficiency
Ne - english count
Nd - No of delvieries
(5) Prodn In Kgs / Hr = (FRD x Fr. rpm x 3.14 x 60 x Effy x Nd) / (Ne x 840 x 36 x
2.2045)
FRD - front roller dia in inches
FRrpm - front roller rpm
effy - efficiency
Ne - Sliver hank
Nd - number of deliveries
SPEEDFRAME + RINGFRAME
(1) Twist / Inch (TPI) = Spindle Speed / FRS
FRS - front roller surface speed in inches/min
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(2) FRS = Fr. rpm x 3.14 x FRD
FRS - Front roller surface speed
FRD - front roller diameter
(3) T.P.I = T.M. x Sqrt (Count or Hank)
T.M. - Twist multiplier
sqrt - square root
(4) Prodn in Kgs / 8 Hrs = (7.2 x SS x Effy) / (TPI x Ne x 1000)
SS - spindle speed
(5) Spindle Speed = M/Min x TPI x 39.37
(6) Hank Delivered = Spindle Speed / ( Tpi x 62.89)
Single yarn strength (gm)
(7) RKM = -----------------------------------
Tex number of yarn
(8) Ring bobbin content = 3.1 LD2 (L = Lift in inch, D = ring dia in inch)
(9) Doubling bobbin content = 3.7 LD2
Actual count x (1 + Present regain)
(10) Corrected count = ------------------------------------------------
1 + Standard regain
Weight per yard of roving fed
(11) Actual draft of ring frame = -----------------------------------------------------------
Weight per yard of yarn delivered on bobbin
Surface speed of front roller
(12) Mechanical draft of ring frame = --------------------------------------
Surface speed of back roller
Draft constant
= --------------------------
Draft change pinion
(13) Twist contraction % = It is basically the percent shortening in length of
yarn between the front roller and the bobbin. The length at the
front roll is taken as 100%. For example 5% twist contraction
means, the yarn length on the bobbin is 95% of the length at the
10/27/13 TEXTILE CALCULATIONS
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front roll.
Yarn count at front roll - yarn count at bobbin
(14) TC% = ------------------------------------------------------------ x 100
Yarn count at front roll
(15) Example of twist contraction given yarn;
Count on bobbin = 10s
Twist contraction = 5%
10 x 1.00
Yarn count at front roll = -------------- = 10.53s
95%
(16) Mechanical draft is always greater than actual draft in ring spinning?
It is necessary to draft the roving to a finer yarn count at front roll that what is to be
bobbin. Because due to twist contraction of yarn, the count of yarn on bobbin becomes
coarser than the count of yarn at front roller.
Twist per inch (TPI)
(17) Twist multiplier or Twist factor = ----------------------------
Ö Count (Ne)
(18) TPI = Twist multiplier x ÖCount (Ne)
or
Twist constant of ring frame
(19) TPI = -------------------------------------
Twist change pinion
(20) Turns per metre (TPM) = Twist factor ÖNm
(21) TPI = TPM x 0.0254
(22) Ring Traveller Speed
Ring Traveller Speed in m/Sec= (Spindle Speed x Ring Dia in mm x 3.14)/
(60 x 1000)
Actual ring traveler speed ?
Assume, spindle speed = 9,000 rpm
Ring Diameter = 57 mm
10/27/13 TEXTILE CALCULATIONS
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Front roll delivery = 64 metre/min.
Package circumference = 102 mm (avg)
Front roll delivery (m/min) x 1000
Traveller lag (rpm) = Spindle speed - ——————————————
Package circumference (mm)
14x1000
= 900 - ———— = 8363 rpm
102
Traveller lag 900 – 8863 = 137 rpm
Uncorrected traveller speed (m/sec.) :
Spindle speed x Ring diameter (mm) x p
= ——————————————————
1000 x 60
9000 x 57 x 3.142
= ——--—————— = 26.8 m/sec.
1000 x 60
Corrected Traveller speed (m/sec.) :
Ring dia (mm) xp x Trav. Lag (rpm)
Traveller speed (m/sec) – —————————————————
60 x 1000
57x 3.142 x 137
= 26.8 - ———————— = 26.39 m/sec.
60 x 1000
(23) Weights of ring travellers No. 1 and 1/0.
For No. 1 = 90 grains / 100 travellers
For No.1/0 = 80 grains/100 travellers
WINDING
1. Slub catcher settings :
a. Fixed Blade = Carded - (2.0 to 2.5) x diameter
Combed - (1.5 to 2.0) x diameter
10/27/13 TEXTILE CALCULATIONS
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b. Electronic yarn clearer = 3 cm x 3 diameter
Diameter in inch = 1/( 28 x Öcount )
for Blended yarn
= 10 to 15% more settings
2. Yarn clearer efficiency = Number of
objectionable thick faults removed by slub catcher
= x 100
Total objectionable thick faults present in yarn before winding
Total breaks during winding (at faults)
3. Knot factor =
No. of breaks due to objectionable yarn faults
Strength of spliced joint x 100
4. Retained splice strength =
Strength of parent yarn
5. Winding Tension = 0.1 x Single yarn strength in grams
4500 x Y
6. Expected efficiency E =
S x N (12 + 98)
7. Winder’s workload (0.17 min/operation on conventional winding m/c = 2300 operations
per shift of 8 hours
where,
1 creeling or 1 piecing = 1 operation
1 doffing = 2 operations
8. Winder’s workload on autoconer (0.08 min per operation) = 4800 operations/shift of 8
hours
where,
1 bobbing feeding = 1 operation
1 doffing (manual) = 4.5 operation
Y = Length/Bobbin (metres)
B = Breaks per bobbin
S = Winding speed (metres/min)
C = English count
(9) Production in Kgs / 8 Hrs = (0.2836 x L x Effy x Nd) / (Ne)
10/27/13 TEXTILE CALCULATIONS
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L - delivery speed in m/min
effy - efficiency
Ne - english count
Nd - No of delvieries
(10) P =( L x 1.0936 x 60 x Effy ) / (Hank (Ne) x 36 x 840 x 2.2045)
P - production in kgs / hr
L - delivery speed in m/min
effy- efficiency
Ne - English count ( number of 840 yards in one pound)
840 - constant
2.2045- to convert from lbs to kilograms
WARPING
R x 100
1. Machine Efficiency E =
R + S
R = Uninterrupted running time for 1,000 meters (in sec)
1000 x 60
=
Machine speed in mtr/min.
S = Total of time in seconds for which the machine is stopped for a production of
1,000 meters
B X N X T1 T2 T3
= R + --------------- + ----- + ---------- + T4
400 L L x C
B = Ends breaks/400 ends/1,000 meters
N = Number of ends
L = Set length in 1,000 meters
C = Beams per creel
Timing of activities in seconds are :
T1 = To mend a break
T2 = To change a beam
T3 = To change a creel
T4 = Miscellaneous Time loss/1,000 mtrs.
10/27/13 TEXTILE CALCULATIONS
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2. Production in metres per 8 hrs. (K) = 480 x mtrs/min x E/100 kgs.
3. Production in Kgs. per 8 hrs. = (K x N)/(1693 x English Count)
4. Warping Tension = 0.03 to 0.05 x Single thread strength
SIZING
Length in metre x 1.094 x Total ends
1. Warp weight = x 100
(in kg.) 840 x 2.204 x Warp count
Sized warp weight - Unsized warp weight
2. Size pick-up = x 100
%age Un-sized warp weight
3. Weight of size = Warp Weight x Size pick up %
Sized warp length - Unsized warp length
4. Stretch %age = x 100
Un-sized warp length
Total-ends x Warp length in yards
5. Sized yarn =
count Sized warp weight (lbs) x 840
Wt. of sized yarn - Wt. of oven dried yarn
6. %age Moisture= x 100
content Wt. of sized yarn
Deliver counter reading - Feed counter reading
7. %age Stretch = x
100 Feed counter reading
840,000 x D x C
8. %age Droppings = x 100
on loom 454 Yx N x P
D = Dropping in gms. C = English Count
Y= Length woven (yds.) N = Number of Ends
P = % size add on
9. Invisible Loss% =
Amount of size material issued - Amount of size added on yarn
= x 100
Amount of size issued
10/27/13 TEXTILE CALCULATIONS
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Steam, Consumption (Sizing M/c) = 2.0 kg/kg of sized yarn
(Cooker) = 0.3 kg/kg of liquor
(Sow box) = 0.2 kg/kg of yarn
No. of Cylinder x 1,000 x English count
10. Max. Speed of machine =
(metres/min) Number of ends
Number of ends x 0.6
11. Wt. of warp in gms/mtr =
English count
WEAVING
1. Reed Count :
It is calculated in stock port system.
EPI
Reed width =
1 + Weft crimp %age
No. of dents in 2 inches is called Reed Count
2. Reed Width :
100 + Weft crimp %age
Reed width = Cloth width x
100
3. Crimp %age :
Warp length - Cloth length
Warp Crimp %age = x 100
Cloth length
Weft length - Cloth length
Weft Crimp %age = x 100
Cloth length
EPI
4. Warp cover factor =
ÖWarp Count
PPI
5. Weft cover factor =
ÖWeft count
Wp.C.F. x Wt. C.F.
6. Cloth cover factor = Wp.C.F. + Wt.C.F. -
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28
7. Maximum EPI for particular count :
a. For plain fabrics = 14 x ÖCount
b. For drill fabrics = ÖCount x 28 x 4/6
c. For satin fabric = ÖCount x 28 x 5/7
Ends/repeat x 1 / yarn diameter
d. Other design =
No. of intersections / repeat + ends/repeat
1
8. Yarn diameter =
28 x ÖCount
Weave Density
1. Warp density = Ends/cm x ÖTex x K
= < 250
2. Filling density = Picks/cm x ÖTex x K
= < 350
(Warp density - 100) x F.D.- 100
3. Weave Density = 50 +
(Weft density - 100) x F.D.- 100
4. Effective weave density = W.D. x K of loom width x K of Design = < 72
To change the count and number of thread/inch, keeping the same denseness of the
fabric :
1. To change the EPI without altering the denseness :
10/27/13 TEXTILE CALCULATIONS
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EPI in given cloth x Ö Warp count in expected cloth
EPI in Exp.Cloth =
Ö Warp count in given cloth
2. To change the count without altering the denseness :
EPI in exp. cloth2
EPI in exp. cloth = x Count in given cloth
EPI in given cloth
Warp requirement to weave a cloth :
Total ends x 1.0936 x 453.59 x crimp%
1. Warp weight in gms/mtrs. = x
Waste 840 x Count %age
2. Weft weight in gms/mtrs. =
R.S. in inches x 453.59 x PPI
= x Crimp %age x Waste %age
840 x Count
Weft wt. in kgs. x Weft count x 1848 x 0.9144
3. Cloth length in mtrs.with =
the given weft weight PPI x R.S. in inches
For Silk and Polyester :
1. Warp weight in gms/mtrs. =
Total ends x Count (Denier)
= x Crimp% x Waste %age
9000
2. Weft weight in gms/mtrs. =
RS in inches x PPI x Count (Denier)
= x Crimp% x Waste %age
9000
Allowance for count in Bleached and Dyed Fabric :
¨ Count becomes 4%
¨ Finer Dyed counts become max.6% Coarser
FABRIC PRODUCTION
10/27/13 TEXTILE CALCULATIONS
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Motor pulley diameter
1. Loom speed = Motor RPM x
Loom pulley diameter
Actual production
2. Loom Efficiency %age = ----------------------------- x 100
Calculated production
Yarn weight - Dryed yarn weight
3. Moisture Regain %age = --------------------------------------------- x 100
Dryed yarn weight
Yarn weight - dried yarn weight
4. Moisture Content %age = -------------------------------------------- x 100
Yarn weight
Total ends x Tape length in metre
5. Warp weight in Kg. = ----------------------------------------------
1693.6 x Warp count
RS in centimetres x Coth length in metres x PPI
6. Weft weight in Kg. = ----------------------------------------------------------------
4301.14 x Weft count
EPI PPI
7. Cloth weight in GSM = ----------------- + ----------------- x 25.6
Warp count Weft count
GSM (Grams per sq. metre)
8. Oz (Ounce) per sq.yard = -------------------------------------
34
Material measurement :
For calculating of length of any rolled fabrics :
0.0655 (D - d) (D + d)
L = -------------------------------
t
Where,
L = Length of material (feet)
t = Thickness of fabrics (inches)
D = Outside diameter (inches)
d = Inside diameter (inches)
Weight of yarn in a cloth :
10/27/13 TEXTILE CALCULATIONS
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The weight of cloth manufactured on loom depends upon the weight of yarns in the warp and
weft : ends/inch, picks/inch and the weight of size on the warp.
Therefore, Cloth weight = Weight of warp + Weight of weft + Weight of size (All in lbs.)
Total No. of Ends x Tape length in yds.
Where as Weight of warp in lbs = ----------------------------------------------------
840 x Warp yarn count
Also Weight of weft in lbs. =
Length of cloth (yds) x Picks/inch in cloth x Reed width (inch)
= -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
840 x Weft yarn count

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  • 1. 10/27/13 TEXTILE CALCULATIONS file:///D:/textile cal/TEXCALTEXT detail.mht 1/15 TEXTILE CALCULATIONS FIBRE FINENESS, YARN COUNTS AND CONVERSIONS Micronaire Value (Cotton) : The unit is micrograms per inch. The average weight of one inch length of fibre, expressed in micrograms(0.000001 gram). Denier (Man-Made Fibres) : Weight in grams per 9000 meters of fibre. Micron (Wool) : Fineness is expressed as fibre diameter in microns(0.001mm) Conversions: · Denier = 0.354 x Micronaire value · Micronaire value = 2.824 x Denier YARN COUNTS It is broadly classified into; 1. DIRECT SYSTEM 2. INDIRECT SYSTEM INDIRECT SYSTEM · English count (Ne) · French count(Nf) · Metric count(Nm) · Worsted count Metric system: Metric count(Nm) indicates the number of 1 kilometer(1000 meter) lengths per Kg. Nm = length in Km / weight in kg (or) Nm = length meter / weight in grams DIRECT SYSTEM · Tex count · Denier
  • 2. 10/27/13 TEXTILE CALCULATIONS file:///D:/textile cal/TEXCALTEXT detail.mht 2/15 CONVERSION TABLE FOR YARN COUNTS Tex Den Nm Grains/yd Tex den/9 1000/Nm gr.yd x 70.86 Ne 590.54/tex 5314.9/den Nm x .5905 8.33 / gr/yd Den tex x 9 9000/Nm gr/yd x 637.7 Nm 1000/tex 9000/den 14.1 / gr/yd Grains/yd tex / 70.86 den / 637.7 14.1/Nm Where, Nm – metric count, Nec – cotton count CONVERSION TABLE FOR WEIGHTS Ounce Grains Grams Kilograms Pounds Ounce 437.5 grains 28.350 grams Grains 0.03527 ounces 0.0648 grams Grams 0.03527 grains 15.432 grains 0.001 kgs Kilograms 35.274 ounces 15432 grains 1000 grams 2.2046 pounds Pounds 16.0 ounces 7000 grains 453.59 grams 0.4536 kgs CONVERSION TABLE FOR LINEAR MEASURES Yard Feet Inches Centimeter Meter Yard 3 feet 36 inches 91.44 cms 0.9144 meter Feet 0.3333 yards 12 inches 30.48 cms 0.3048 meter Inches 0.0278 yards 0.0833 feet 2.54 cms 0.254 meter Centimeter 0.0109 yards 0.0328 feet 0.3937 inches 0.01meter Meter 1.0936 yards 3.281 feet 39.37 inches 100 cms CALCULATIONS Grams per meter = 0.5905 / Ne Grams per yard = 0.54 / Ne Tex = den x .11 = 1000/Nm = Mic/25.4 Ne = Nm/1.693 DRAFT = (feed weight in g/m) / (delivery weight in g/m) DRAFT = Tex (feed) / Tex(delivery) DRAFT = delivery roll surface speed / feed roll surface speed No of hanks delivered by m/c = (Length delivered in m/min) / 1.605
  • 3. 10/27/13 TEXTILE CALCULATIONS file:///D:/textile cal/TEXCALTEXT detail.mht 3/15 BLOW ROOM % trash in cotton - % trash in lap (1) Blow-room Cleaning Efficiency% (CE) = ------------------------------------------- % trash in cotton (2) Lint in waste (%) = 100 - CE CARDING (1) P =( L x 1.0936 x 60 x Effy ) / (Hank (Ne) x 36 x 840 x 2.2045) P - production in kgs / hr L - delivery speed in m/min effy- efficiency Ne - English count ( number of 840 yards in one pound) 840 - constant 2.2045- to convert from lbs to kilograms (2) Production In Kgs / Hr = (L x Ktex x 60 x Effy) / ( 1000) L - delivery speed in m/min Ktex- sliver count in Ktex (kilotex) effy - efficiency 1000- to convert to kilograms from grams (3) Production In Kgs / 8 Hrs = (0.2836 x L x Effy) / (Ne) L - delivery speed in m/min effy - efficiency Ne - English count (4) Prodn / 8 Hrs = (Hank x Nd) /( Ne x 2.2045) Hank = no of hank (840 yards)delivered by the machine Nd = no of deliveries Ne = hank of the material (5) Total Draft in Card = (Feed Weight in g/m) / (Sliver Weight in g/m)
  • 4. 10/27/13 TEXTILE CALCULATIONS file:///D:/textile cal/TEXCALTEXT detail.mht 4/15 Wt. per yard of lap fed (6) Actual draft = ------------------------------------------------ Wt. per yard of card sliver delivered Length of card sliver delivered (7) Mechanical draft = ---------------------------------------- Length of lap fed or Draft constant of card machine = ------------------------------------------ Draft change pinion (8) Actual draft is always greater than the mechanical draft in carding because it is the carding waste% that increases the actual draft. DRAWFRAME (1) Break Draft = Surface Speed of 2nd Roller / Surface Speed of Back Roller (2) Main Draft = Surface Speed of 1st Roller / Surface Speed of 2nd (Middle) Roller (3) Total Draft = Surface speed of delivery roller / surface of feed roller (4) Production In Kgs / 8 Hrs = (0.2836 x L x Effy x Nd) / (Ne) L - delivery speed in m/min effy - efficiency Ne - english count Nd - No of delvieries (5) Prodn In Kgs / Hr = (FRD x Fr. rpm x 3.14 x 60 x Effy x Nd) / (Ne x 840 x 36 x 2.2045) FRD - front roller dia in inches FRrpm - front roller rpm effy - efficiency Ne - Sliver hank Nd - number of deliveries SPEEDFRAME + RINGFRAME (1) Twist / Inch (TPI) = Spindle Speed / FRS FRS - front roller surface speed in inches/min
  • 5. 10/27/13 TEXTILE CALCULATIONS file:///D:/textile cal/TEXCALTEXT detail.mht 5/15 (2) FRS = Fr. rpm x 3.14 x FRD FRS - Front roller surface speed FRD - front roller diameter (3) T.P.I = T.M. x Sqrt (Count or Hank) T.M. - Twist multiplier sqrt - square root (4) Prodn in Kgs / 8 Hrs = (7.2 x SS x Effy) / (TPI x Ne x 1000) SS - spindle speed (5) Spindle Speed = M/Min x TPI x 39.37 (6) Hank Delivered = Spindle Speed / ( Tpi x 62.89) Single yarn strength (gm) (7) RKM = ----------------------------------- Tex number of yarn (8) Ring bobbin content = 3.1 LD2 (L = Lift in inch, D = ring dia in inch) (9) Doubling bobbin content = 3.7 LD2 Actual count x (1 + Present regain) (10) Corrected count = ------------------------------------------------ 1 + Standard regain Weight per yard of roving fed (11) Actual draft of ring frame = ----------------------------------------------------------- Weight per yard of yarn delivered on bobbin Surface speed of front roller (12) Mechanical draft of ring frame = -------------------------------------- Surface speed of back roller Draft constant = -------------------------- Draft change pinion (13) Twist contraction % = It is basically the percent shortening in length of yarn between the front roller and the bobbin. The length at the front roll is taken as 100%. For example 5% twist contraction means, the yarn length on the bobbin is 95% of the length at the
  • 6. 10/27/13 TEXTILE CALCULATIONS file:///D:/textile cal/TEXCALTEXT detail.mht 6/15 front roll. Yarn count at front roll - yarn count at bobbin (14) TC% = ------------------------------------------------------------ x 100 Yarn count at front roll (15) Example of twist contraction given yarn; Count on bobbin = 10s Twist contraction = 5% 10 x 1.00 Yarn count at front roll = -------------- = 10.53s 95% (16) Mechanical draft is always greater than actual draft in ring spinning? It is necessary to draft the roving to a finer yarn count at front roll that what is to be bobbin. Because due to twist contraction of yarn, the count of yarn on bobbin becomes coarser than the count of yarn at front roller. Twist per inch (TPI) (17) Twist multiplier or Twist factor = ---------------------------- Ö Count (Ne) (18) TPI = Twist multiplier x ÖCount (Ne) or Twist constant of ring frame (19) TPI = ------------------------------------- Twist change pinion (20) Turns per metre (TPM) = Twist factor ÖNm (21) TPI = TPM x 0.0254 (22) Ring Traveller Speed Ring Traveller Speed in m/Sec= (Spindle Speed x Ring Dia in mm x 3.14)/ (60 x 1000) Actual ring traveler speed ? Assume, spindle speed = 9,000 rpm Ring Diameter = 57 mm
  • 7. 10/27/13 TEXTILE CALCULATIONS file:///D:/textile cal/TEXCALTEXT detail.mht 7/15 Front roll delivery = 64 metre/min. Package circumference = 102 mm (avg) Front roll delivery (m/min) x 1000 Traveller lag (rpm) = Spindle speed - —————————————— Package circumference (mm) 14x1000 = 900 - ———— = 8363 rpm 102 Traveller lag 900 – 8863 = 137 rpm Uncorrected traveller speed (m/sec.) : Spindle speed x Ring diameter (mm) x p = —————————————————— 1000 x 60 9000 x 57 x 3.142 = ——--—————— = 26.8 m/sec. 1000 x 60 Corrected Traveller speed (m/sec.) : Ring dia (mm) xp x Trav. Lag (rpm) Traveller speed (m/sec) – ————————————————— 60 x 1000 57x 3.142 x 137 = 26.8 - ———————— = 26.39 m/sec. 60 x 1000 (23) Weights of ring travellers No. 1 and 1/0. For No. 1 = 90 grains / 100 travellers For No.1/0 = 80 grains/100 travellers WINDING 1. Slub catcher settings : a. Fixed Blade = Carded - (2.0 to 2.5) x diameter Combed - (1.5 to 2.0) x diameter
  • 8. 10/27/13 TEXTILE CALCULATIONS file:///D:/textile cal/TEXCALTEXT detail.mht 8/15 b. Electronic yarn clearer = 3 cm x 3 diameter Diameter in inch = 1/( 28 x Öcount ) for Blended yarn = 10 to 15% more settings 2. Yarn clearer efficiency = Number of objectionable thick faults removed by slub catcher = x 100 Total objectionable thick faults present in yarn before winding Total breaks during winding (at faults) 3. Knot factor = No. of breaks due to objectionable yarn faults Strength of spliced joint x 100 4. Retained splice strength = Strength of parent yarn 5. Winding Tension = 0.1 x Single yarn strength in grams 4500 x Y 6. Expected efficiency E = S x N (12 + 98) 7. Winder’s workload (0.17 min/operation on conventional winding m/c = 2300 operations per shift of 8 hours where, 1 creeling or 1 piecing = 1 operation 1 doffing = 2 operations 8. Winder’s workload on autoconer (0.08 min per operation) = 4800 operations/shift of 8 hours where, 1 bobbing feeding = 1 operation 1 doffing (manual) = 4.5 operation Y = Length/Bobbin (metres) B = Breaks per bobbin S = Winding speed (metres/min) C = English count (9) Production in Kgs / 8 Hrs = (0.2836 x L x Effy x Nd) / (Ne)
  • 9. 10/27/13 TEXTILE CALCULATIONS file:///D:/textile cal/TEXCALTEXT detail.mht 9/15 L - delivery speed in m/min effy - efficiency Ne - english count Nd - No of delvieries (10) P =( L x 1.0936 x 60 x Effy ) / (Hank (Ne) x 36 x 840 x 2.2045) P - production in kgs / hr L - delivery speed in m/min effy- efficiency Ne - English count ( number of 840 yards in one pound) 840 - constant 2.2045- to convert from lbs to kilograms WARPING R x 100 1. Machine Efficiency E = R + S R = Uninterrupted running time for 1,000 meters (in sec) 1000 x 60 = Machine speed in mtr/min. S = Total of time in seconds for which the machine is stopped for a production of 1,000 meters B X N X T1 T2 T3 = R + --------------- + ----- + ---------- + T4 400 L L x C B = Ends breaks/400 ends/1,000 meters N = Number of ends L = Set length in 1,000 meters C = Beams per creel Timing of activities in seconds are : T1 = To mend a break T2 = To change a beam T3 = To change a creel T4 = Miscellaneous Time loss/1,000 mtrs.
  • 10. 10/27/13 TEXTILE CALCULATIONS file:///D:/textile cal/TEXCALTEXT detail.mht 10/15 2. Production in metres per 8 hrs. (K) = 480 x mtrs/min x E/100 kgs. 3. Production in Kgs. per 8 hrs. = (K x N)/(1693 x English Count) 4. Warping Tension = 0.03 to 0.05 x Single thread strength SIZING Length in metre x 1.094 x Total ends 1. Warp weight = x 100 (in kg.) 840 x 2.204 x Warp count Sized warp weight - Unsized warp weight 2. Size pick-up = x 100 %age Un-sized warp weight 3. Weight of size = Warp Weight x Size pick up % Sized warp length - Unsized warp length 4. Stretch %age = x 100 Un-sized warp length Total-ends x Warp length in yards 5. Sized yarn = count Sized warp weight (lbs) x 840 Wt. of sized yarn - Wt. of oven dried yarn 6. %age Moisture= x 100 content Wt. of sized yarn Deliver counter reading - Feed counter reading 7. %age Stretch = x 100 Feed counter reading 840,000 x D x C 8. %age Droppings = x 100 on loom 454 Yx N x P D = Dropping in gms. C = English Count Y= Length woven (yds.) N = Number of Ends P = % size add on 9. Invisible Loss% = Amount of size material issued - Amount of size added on yarn = x 100 Amount of size issued
  • 11. 10/27/13 TEXTILE CALCULATIONS file:///D:/textile cal/TEXCALTEXT detail.mht 11/15 Steam, Consumption (Sizing M/c) = 2.0 kg/kg of sized yarn (Cooker) = 0.3 kg/kg of liquor (Sow box) = 0.2 kg/kg of yarn No. of Cylinder x 1,000 x English count 10. Max. Speed of machine = (metres/min) Number of ends Number of ends x 0.6 11. Wt. of warp in gms/mtr = English count WEAVING 1. Reed Count : It is calculated in stock port system. EPI Reed width = 1 + Weft crimp %age No. of dents in 2 inches is called Reed Count 2. Reed Width : 100 + Weft crimp %age Reed width = Cloth width x 100 3. Crimp %age : Warp length - Cloth length Warp Crimp %age = x 100 Cloth length Weft length - Cloth length Weft Crimp %age = x 100 Cloth length EPI 4. Warp cover factor = ÖWarp Count PPI 5. Weft cover factor = ÖWeft count Wp.C.F. x Wt. C.F. 6. Cloth cover factor = Wp.C.F. + Wt.C.F. -
  • 12. 10/27/13 TEXTILE CALCULATIONS file:///D:/textile cal/TEXCALTEXT detail.mht 12/15 28 7. Maximum EPI for particular count : a. For plain fabrics = 14 x ÖCount b. For drill fabrics = ÖCount x 28 x 4/6 c. For satin fabric = ÖCount x 28 x 5/7 Ends/repeat x 1 / yarn diameter d. Other design = No. of intersections / repeat + ends/repeat 1 8. Yarn diameter = 28 x ÖCount Weave Density 1. Warp density = Ends/cm x ÖTex x K = < 250 2. Filling density = Picks/cm x ÖTex x K = < 350 (Warp density - 100) x F.D.- 100 3. Weave Density = 50 + (Weft density - 100) x F.D.- 100 4. Effective weave density = W.D. x K of loom width x K of Design = < 72 To change the count and number of thread/inch, keeping the same denseness of the fabric : 1. To change the EPI without altering the denseness :
  • 13. 10/27/13 TEXTILE CALCULATIONS file:///D:/textile cal/TEXCALTEXT detail.mht 13/15 EPI in given cloth x Ö Warp count in expected cloth EPI in Exp.Cloth = Ö Warp count in given cloth 2. To change the count without altering the denseness : EPI in exp. cloth2 EPI in exp. cloth = x Count in given cloth EPI in given cloth Warp requirement to weave a cloth : Total ends x 1.0936 x 453.59 x crimp% 1. Warp weight in gms/mtrs. = x Waste 840 x Count %age 2. Weft weight in gms/mtrs. = R.S. in inches x 453.59 x PPI = x Crimp %age x Waste %age 840 x Count Weft wt. in kgs. x Weft count x 1848 x 0.9144 3. Cloth length in mtrs.with = the given weft weight PPI x R.S. in inches For Silk and Polyester : 1. Warp weight in gms/mtrs. = Total ends x Count (Denier) = x Crimp% x Waste %age 9000 2. Weft weight in gms/mtrs. = RS in inches x PPI x Count (Denier) = x Crimp% x Waste %age 9000 Allowance for count in Bleached and Dyed Fabric : ¨ Count becomes 4% ¨ Finer Dyed counts become max.6% Coarser FABRIC PRODUCTION
  • 14. 10/27/13 TEXTILE CALCULATIONS file:///D:/textile cal/TEXCALTEXT detail.mht 14/15 Motor pulley diameter 1. Loom speed = Motor RPM x Loom pulley diameter Actual production 2. Loom Efficiency %age = ----------------------------- x 100 Calculated production Yarn weight - Dryed yarn weight 3. Moisture Regain %age = --------------------------------------------- x 100 Dryed yarn weight Yarn weight - dried yarn weight 4. Moisture Content %age = -------------------------------------------- x 100 Yarn weight Total ends x Tape length in metre 5. Warp weight in Kg. = ---------------------------------------------- 1693.6 x Warp count RS in centimetres x Coth length in metres x PPI 6. Weft weight in Kg. = ---------------------------------------------------------------- 4301.14 x Weft count EPI PPI 7. Cloth weight in GSM = ----------------- + ----------------- x 25.6 Warp count Weft count GSM (Grams per sq. metre) 8. Oz (Ounce) per sq.yard = ------------------------------------- 34 Material measurement : For calculating of length of any rolled fabrics : 0.0655 (D - d) (D + d) L = ------------------------------- t Where, L = Length of material (feet) t = Thickness of fabrics (inches) D = Outside diameter (inches) d = Inside diameter (inches) Weight of yarn in a cloth :
  • 15. 10/27/13 TEXTILE CALCULATIONS file:///D:/textile cal/TEXCALTEXT detail.mht 15/15 The weight of cloth manufactured on loom depends upon the weight of yarns in the warp and weft : ends/inch, picks/inch and the weight of size on the warp. Therefore, Cloth weight = Weight of warp + Weight of weft + Weight of size (All in lbs.) Total No. of Ends x Tape length in yds. Where as Weight of warp in lbs = ---------------------------------------------------- 840 x Warp yarn count Also Weight of weft in lbs. = Length of cloth (yds) x Picks/inch in cloth x Reed width (inch) = ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 840 x Weft yarn count