Textile calculations

10/27/13

TEXTILE CALCULATIONS

FIBRE FINENESS, YARN COUNTS AND CONVERSIONS
Micronaire Value (Cotton) : The unit is micrograms per inch. The average weight of one inch
length of fibre, expressed in micrograms(0.000001 gram).

Denier (Man-Made Fibres) : Weight in grams per 9000 meters of fibre.
Micron (Wool) : Fineness is expressed as fibre diameter in microns(0.001mm)
Conversions:
·

Denier = 0.354 x Micronaire value

·

Micronaire value = 2.824 x Denier

YARN COUNTS
It is broadly classified into;
1.

DIRECT SYSTEM

2.

INDIRECT SYSTEM

INDIRECT SYSTEM
·

English count (Ne)

·

French count(Nf)

·

Metric count(Nm)

·

Worsted count

Metric system: Metric count(Nm) indicates the number of 1 kilometer(1000 meter) lengths per
Kg.
Nm = length in Km / weight in kg (or)
Nm = length meter / weight in grams

DIRECT SYSTEM
·

Tex count

·

Denier

file:///D:/textile cal/TEXCALTEXT detail.mht

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CONVERSION TABLE FOR YARN COUNTS
Tex
Ne

590.54/tex

Nm

Grains/yd

den/9

Tex

Den

1000/Nm

gr.yd x 70.86

5314.9/den

Nm x .5905

8.33 / gr/yd

9000/Nm

gr/yd x 637.7

Den

tex x 9

Nm

1000/tex

9000/den

tex / 70.86

den / 637.7

Grains/yd

14.1 / gr/yd
14.1/Nm

Where, Nm – metric count, Nec – cotton count

CONVERSION TABLE FOR WEIGHTS
Ounce

Grains

Grams

437.5 grains

Ounce

Grains

28.350 grams

0.03527
ounces

Kilograms

0.0648 grams

Grams

0.03527 grains 15.432 grains

Kilograms

35.274 ounces

15432 grains

1000 grams

16.0 ounces

7000 grains

453.59 grams

Pounds

Pounds

0.001 kgs
2.2046
pounds
0.4536 kgs

CONVERSION TABLE FOR LINEAR MEASURES
Yard

Inches

Centimeter

Meter

3 feet

Yard

Feet

36 inches

91.44 cms

0.9144
meter

12 inches

30.48 cms

0.3048
meter

2.54 cms

0.254
meter

Feet

0.3333 yards

Inches

0.0278 yards

0.0833 feet

Centimeter

0.0109 yards

0.0328 feet

0.3937 inches

Meter

1.0936 yards

3.281 feet

39.37 inches

0.01meter
100 cms

CALCULATIONS
Grams per meter = 0.5905 / Ne
Grams per yard = 0.54 / Ne
Tex = den x .11 = 1000/Nm = Mic/25.4
Ne = Nm/1.693
DRAFT = (feed weight in g/m) / (delivery weight in g/m)
DRAFT = Tex (feed) / Tex(delivery)
DRAFT = delivery roll surface speed / feed roll surface speed
No of hanks delivered by m/c = (Length delivered in m/min) / 1.605

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BLOW ROOM
(1)

% trash in cotton - % trash in lap
Blow-room Cleaning Efficiency% (CE) = ------------------------------------------% trash in cotton

(2)

Lint in waste (%) = 100 - CE

CARDING
(1)

P =( L x 1.0936 x 60 x Effy ) / (Hank (Ne) x 36 x 840 x 2.2045)
P - production in kgs / hr
L - delivery speed in m/min
effy- efficiency
Ne - English count ( number of 840 yards in one pound)
840 - constant
2.2045- to convert from lbs to kilograms

(2)

Production In Kgs / Hr = (L x Ktex x 60 x Effy) / ( 1000)
Ktex- sliver count in Ktex (kilotex)
effy - efficiency
1000- to convert to kilograms from grams

(3)

Production In Kgs / 8 Hrs = (0.2836 x L x Effy) / (Ne)
effy - efficiency
Ne - English count

(4)

Prodn / 8 Hrs = (Hank x Nd) /( Ne x 2.2045)
Hank = no of hank (840 yards)delivered by the machine
Nd = no of deliveries
Ne = hank of the material

(5)

Total Draft in Card = (Feed Weight in g/m) / (Sliver Weight in g/m)


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(6)


Actual draft

Wt. per yard of lap fed
= -----------------------------------------------Wt. per yard of card sliver delivered

Length of card sliver delivered
(7) Mechanical draft = ---------------------------------------Length of lap fed
or
Draft constant of card machine
= -----------------------------------------Draft change pinion
(8)

Actual draft is always greater than the mechanical draft in carding because it is the
carding waste% that increases the actual draft.

DRAWFRAME
(1)

Break Draft = Surface Speed of 2nd Roller / Surface Speed of Back Roller

(2)

Main Draft = Surface Speed of 1st Roller / Surface Speed of 2nd
Roller

(3)

Total Draft = Surface speed of delivery roller / surface of feed roller

(4)

Production In Kgs / 8 Hrs = (0.2836 x L x Effy x Nd) / (Ne)

(Middle)

effy - efficiency
Ne - english count
Nd - No of delvieries
(5)

Prodn In Kgs / Hr = (FRD x Fr. rpm x 3.14 x 60 x Effy x Nd) / (Ne x 840 x 36 x
2.2045)
FRD - front roller dia in inches
FRrpm - front roller rpm
effy - efficiency
Ne - Sliver hank
Nd - number of deliveries

SPEEDFRAME + RINGFRAME
(1)

Twist / Inch (TPI) = Spindle Speed / FRS
FRS - front roller surface speed in inches/min


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10/27/13

(2)


FRS = Fr. rpm x 3.14 x FRD
FRS - Front roller surface speed
FRD - front roller diameter

(3)

T.P.I = T.M. x Sqrt (Count or Hank)
T.M. - Twist multiplier
sqrt - square root

(4)

Prodn in Kgs / 8 Hrs = (7.2 x SS x Effy) / (TPI x Ne x 1000)
SS - spindle speed

(5)

Spindle Speed = M/Min x TPI x 39.37

(6)

Hank Delivered = Spindle Speed / ( Tpi x 62.89)

(7)

Single yarn strength (gm)
RKM = ----------------------------------Tex number of yarn

(8)

Ring bobbin content = 3.1 LD2 (L = Lift in inch, D = ring dia in inch)

(9)

Doubling bobbin content = 3.7 LD2

(10)

Corrected count

(11)

Weight per yard of roving fed
Actual draft of ring frame = ----------------------------------------------------------Weight per yard of yarn delivered on bobbin

(12)

=

Actual count x (1 + Present regain)
-----------------------------------------------1 + Standard regain

Mechanical draft of ring frame =

=

Surface speed of front roller
-------------------------------------Surface speed of back roller
Draft constant
-------------------------Draft change pinion

(13) Twist contraction % = It is basically the percent shortening in length of
yarn between the front roller and the bobbin. The length at the
front roll is taken as 100%. For example 5% twist contraction
means, the yarn length on the bobbin is 95% of the length at the

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front roll.

=

Yarn count at front roll - yarn count at bobbin
------------------------------------------------------------ x 100
Yarn count at front roll

(14)

TC%

(15)

Example of twist contraction given yarn;
Count on bobbin = 10s
Twist contraction = 5%
10 x 1.00
Yarn count at front roll = -------------- = 10.53s
95%

(16)

Mechanical draft is always greater than actual draft in ring spinning?
It is necessary to draft the roving to a finer yarn count at front roll that what is to be
bobbin. Because due to twist contraction of yarn, the count of yarn on bobbin becomes
coarser than the count of yarn at front roller.

(17)

Twist per inch (TPI)
Twist multiplier or Twist factor = ---------------------------Ö Count (Ne)

(18)

TPI = Twist multiplier x ÖCount (Ne)
or

(19)

Twist constant of ring frame
TPI = ------------------------------------Twist change pinion

(20)

Turns per metre (TPM) = Twist factor ÖNm

(21)

TPI = TPM x 0.0254

(22)

Ring Traveller Speed
Ring Traveller Speed in m/Sec= (Spindle Speed x Ring Dia in mm x 3.14)/
(60 x 1000)
Actual ring traveler speed ?
Assume, spindle speed
Ring Diameter


=
=

9,000 rpm
57 mm
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Front roll delivery
Package circumference

= 64 metre/min.
= 102 mm (avg)

Front roll delivery (m/min) x 1000
Traveller lag (rpm) = Spindle speed - ——————————————
Package circumference (mm)
14x1000
= 900 - ————
102

= 8363 rpm

Traveller lag 900 – 8863 = 137 rpm
Uncorrected traveller speed (m/sec.) :
Spindle speed x Ring diameter (mm) x p
= ——————————————————
1000 x 60
9000 x 57 x 3.142
= ——--—————— =
1000 x 60

26.8 m/sec.

Corrected Traveller speed (m/sec.) :

Traveller speed (m/sec) –

Ring dia (mm) xp x Trav. Lag (rpm)
—————————————————
60 x 1000

57x 3.142 x 137
= 26.8 - ———————— = 26.39 m/sec.
60 x 1000

(23) Weights of ring travellers No. 1 and 1/0.
For No. 1 = 90 grains / 100 travellers
For No.1/0 = 80 grains/100 travellers

WINDING
1.

Slub catcher settings :
a.

Fixed Blade = Carded - (2.0 to 2.5) x diameter
Combed - (1.5 to 2.0) x diameter


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b.

Electronic yarn clearer = 3 cm x 3 diameter
= 1/( 28 x Öcount )

Diameter in inch
for Blended yarn

= 10 to 15% more settings
2.

Yarn clearer efficiency =
objectionable thick faults removed by slub catcher
=
Total objectionable thick faults present in yarn before winding

Number of
x 100

Total breaks during winding (at faults)
3.

Knot factor =
No. of breaks due to objectionable yarn faults
Strength of spliced joint x 100

4.

Retained splice strength =
Strength of parent yarn

5.

Winding Tension = 0.1 x Single yarn strength in grams
4500 x Y

6.

Expected efficiency E

=
S x N (12 + 98)

7.

Winder’s workload (0.17 min/operation on conventional winding m/c = 2300 operations
per shift of 8 hours
where,
1 creeling or 1 piecing = 1 operation
1 doffing = 2 operations

8.

Winder’s workload on autoconer (0.08 min per operation) = 4800 operations/shift of 8
hours
where,
1 bobbing feeding = 1 operation
1 doffing (manual) = 4.5 operation
Y
B
S
C

(9)

= Length/Bobbin (metres)
= Breaks per bobbin
= Winding speed (metres/min)
= English count

Production in Kgs / 8 Hrs = (0.2836 x L x Effy x Nd) / (Ne)


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effy - efficiency
Ne - english count
Nd - No of delvieries
(10)

P =( L x 1.0936 x 60 x Effy ) / (Hank (Ne) x 36 x 840 x 2.2045)
P - production in kgs / hr
effy- efficiency
Ne - English count ( number of 840 yards in one pound)
840 - constant
2.2045- to convert from lbs to kilograms

WARPING
R x 100
1.

Machine Efficiency E =
R+S
R = Uninterrupted running time for 1,000 meters (in sec)
1000 x 60
=
Machine speed in mtr/min.
S = Total of time in seconds for which the machine is stopped for a production of
1,000 meters
B X N X T1
T2
T3
= R + --------------- + ----- + ---------- + T4
400
L
L xC
B = Ends breaks/400 ends/1,000 meters
N = Number of ends
L = Set length in 1,000 meters
C = Beams per creel
Timing of activities in seconds are :
T1 = To mend a break
T2 = To change a beam
T3 = To change a creel
T4 = Miscellaneous Time loss/1,000 mtrs.


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2.

Production in metres per 8 hrs. (K) = 480 x mtrs/min x E/100 kgs.

3.

Production in Kgs. per 8 hrs. = (K x N)/(1693 x English Count)

4.

Warping Tension = 0.03 to 0.05 x Single thread strength

SIZING
Length in metre x 1.094 x Total ends
1.

Warp weight =
(in kg.)

x 100
840 x 2.204 x Warp count
Sized warp weight - Unsized warp weight

2.
3.

Size pick-up
%age

=

x 100
Un-sized warp weight

Weight of size =

Warp Weight x Size pick up %
Sized warp length - Unsized warp length

4.

Stretch %age =

x 100
Un-sized warp length
Total-ends x Warp length in yards

5.

Sized yarn
count

=
Sized warp weight (lbs) x 840
Wt. of sized yarn - Wt. of oven dried yarn

6.

%age Moisture=
content

x 100
Wt. of sized yarn
Deliver counter reading - Feed counter reading

7.

%age Stretch =
100

x
Feed counter reading
840,000 x D x C

8.

%age Droppings =
on loom

x 100
454 Y x N x P

D = Dropping in gms.
Y = Length woven (yds.)
P = % size add on
9.

C = English Count
N = Number of Ends

Invisible Loss% =
Amount of size material issued - Amount of size added on yarn
=

x 100
Amount of size issued


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Steam, Consumption (Sizing M/c) = 2.0 kg/kg of sized yarn
(Cooker) = 0.3 kg/kg of liquor
(Sow box) = 0.2 kg/kg of yarn
No. of Cylinder x 1,000 x English count
10. Max. Speed of machine
(metres/min)

=
Number of ends
Number of ends x 0.6

11. Wt. of warp in gms/mtr =
English count

WEAVING
1.

Reed Count :
It is calculated in stock port system.
EPI
Reed width =
1 + Weft crimp %age
No. of dents in 2 inches is called Reed Count

2.

Reed Width :
100 + Weft crimp %age
Reed width = Cloth width x
100

3.

Crimp % age :
Warp length - Cloth length
Warp Crimp %age

=

x 100
Cloth length

Weft length - Cloth length
Weft Crimp %age =

x 100
Cloth length
EPI

4.

Warp cover factor =
ÖWarp Count
PPI

5.

Weft cover factor =
ÖWeft count
Wp.C.F. x Wt. C.F.

6.

Cloth cover factor = Wp.C.F. + Wt.C.F. -


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28
7.

Maximum EPI for particular count :
a.

For plain fabrics = 14 x ÖCount

b.

For drill fabrics

= ÖCount x 28 x 4/6

c.

For satin fabric

= ÖCount x 28 x 5/7
Ends/repeat x 1 / yarn diameter

d.

Other design =
No. of intersections / repeat + ends/repeat
1

8.

Yarn diameter =
28 x ÖCount

Weave Density
1.

Warp density = Ends/cm x ÖTex x K
= < 250

2.

Filling density = Picks/cm x ÖTex x K
= < 350
(Warp density - 100) x F.D.- 100

3.

Weave Density = 50 +
(Weft density - 100) x F.D.- 100

4.

Effective weave density = W.D. x K of loom width x K of Design = < 72

To change the count and number of thread/inch, keeping the same denseness of the
fabric :
1.

To change the EPI without altering the denseness :


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EPI in given cloth x Ö Warp count in expected cloth
EPI in Exp.Cloth =
2.

Ö Warp count in given cloth
To change the count without altering the denseness :
EPI in exp. cloth2
EPI in exp. cloth =

x Count in given cloth
EPI in given cloth

Warp requirement to weave a cloth :
Total ends x 1.0936 x 453.59 x crimp%
1. Warp weight in gms/mtrs. =
Waste

2.

x
840 x Count

Weft weight in gms/mtrs. =
R.S. in inches x 453.59 x PPI
=
840 x Count

%age

x Crimp %age x Waste %age

Weft wt. in kgs. x Weft count x 1848 x 0.9144
3.

Cloth length in mtrs.with =
the given weft weight

PPI x R.S. in inches

For Silk and Polyester :

1.

Warp weight in gms/mtrs. =
Total ends x Count (Denier)
=

x Crimp% x Waste %age
9000

2.

Weft weight in gms/mtrs. =
RS in inches x PPI x Count (Denier)
=
9000

x Crimp% x Waste %age

Allowance for count in Bleached and Dyed Fabric :
¨

Count becomes 4%

¨

Finer Dyed counts become max.6% Coarser

FABRIC PRODUCTION

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Motor pulley diameter
1.

Loom speed = Motor RPM x
Loom pulley diameter

2.

Actual production
Loom Efficiency %age = ----------------------------- x 100
Calculated production

3.

Yarn weight - Dryed yarn weight
Moisture Regain %age = --------------------------------------------- x 100
Dryed yarn weight

4.

Yarn weight - dried yarn weight
Moisture Content %age = -------------------------------------------- x 100
Yarn weight

5.

Total ends x Tape length in metre
Warp weight in Kg. = ---------------------------------------------1693.6 x Warp count

6.

RS in centimetres x Coth length in metres x PPI
Weft weight in Kg. = ---------------------------------------------------------------4301.14 x Weft count

7.

EPI
PPI
Cloth weight in GSM = ----------------- + ----------------- x 25.6
Warp count
Weft count

8.

GSM (Grams per sq. metre)
Oz (Ounce) per sq.yard = ------------------------------------34

Material measurement :
For calculating of length of any rolled fabrics :

L =

0.0655 (D - d) (D + d)
------------------------------t

Where,
L = Length of material (feet)
t = Thickness of fabrics (inches)
D = Outside diameter (inches)
d = Inside diameter (inches)

Weight of yarn in a cloth :

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The weight of cloth manufactured on loom depends upon the weight of yarns in the warp and
weft : ends/inch, picks/inch and the weight of size on the warp.
Therefore, Cloth weight = Weight of warp + Weight of weft + Weight of size (All in lbs.)
Total No. of Ends x Tape length in yds.
Where as Weight of warp in lbs = ---------------------------------------------------840 x Warp yarn count

Also Weight of weft in lbs. =
Length of cloth (yds) x Picks/inch in cloth x Reed width (inch)
= ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------840 x Weft yarn count


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