Basics of Shaving Preparation

1. SHAVING PREPARATIONS
Dr. Prashant L. Pingale
Associate Professor,
Dept. of Pharmaceutics,
GES’s Sir Dr. M. S. Gosavi College of
Pharm. Edu. and Research,
Nashik-422005

2. CONTENTS
Definition and general properties of shaving
product,
Various products:
 Shaving products,
 After shave products.
Definition, Characteristics, Preparation and
marketed products form each class.

3. DEFINITION
These are cosmetic preparations used for shaving
purpose.
Generally used by men sometimes by women.
Generally two types:
 Preparations used before shaving
 Preparations used after shaving

4. PROPERTIES OF SHAVING PREPARATIONS
Non- irritant to skin,
Retain moisture during the period it remains on the face,
Soften the beard so that hair cuts easily,
Provide sufficient lubricity so that razor glides along the face,
Sufficient viscosity,
Stable over wide tempt. range,
Non- corrosive to the containers,
If used with brush, able to produce sufficient lather rapidly.

5. PREPARATIONS USED BEFORE SHAVING
Two types:
 Preparations used for shaving with Razor blade
 Shaving soaps
 Brushless shaving creams
 Lather shaving cream
 Aerosol preparations
 Preparations used for Electric shaving

6. SHAVING SOAPS
In all preparations conc. aq. soap soln
. is used as main
ingredient to produce foam or lather & acts on beard
(hair).
Before application normal washing is done to remove
fat film over the beard.
Available in following forms:
 Cake
 Stick

7.  Stearic acid : 48%
 Coconut fatty acids : 15%
 KOH : 20%
 NaOH : 4%
 Water q.s. : 100%
 Procedure:
 Whiteness: TiO2
 Generally KOH & NaOH is used in 5:1 ratio.
 Super fatting agents like monodecyl, dodecyl, tetradecyl esters of di-glycerol
amine are used : to improve soap system
 Talc (10 – 15%): used to increase persistence of lather & razor more smooth.

8. MARKETED PRODUCTS
Palmolive
Denim
Old spice
VI JOHN
Gillette
Godrej
Lomani

9. SHAVING CREAMS
Shaving cream is cream that is applied to the face or
wherever else hair grows to avoid razor burn from shaving.
Shaving cream is often bought in a can, but can also be
purchased in tubes.
Shaving cream in a can is commonly dispensed as a foam or a
gel.
Creams that are in tubes are commonly used with a shaving
brush to produce a rich lather.
A relatively new product is shaving gel, which is dispensed as a
gel then rubbed on the face to produce a lather.

10. SHAVING GEL & CREAMS
The main difference between these two types of
lubricant is that the gel- and foam-based creams are
usually alcohol based and often dry the skin
excessively.
The tube based creams are based on glycerin soaps that
are alcohol free and tend to be much easier on the skin.

11. QUALITIES OF GOOD SHAVING CREAMS
 Non- toxic
 Non- irritating
 Smooth & soft
 Free from lumps
 Produce rich lather
 Good wetting properties
 Economical
 The lather produces should not dry on face so rapidly
 Satisfactory consistency according to temperature
 Non- corrosive to razor blade & easily rinsed from razor & face.

12. LATHER SHAVING CREAM
Lather is a mixture of soap in glycerin and water.
It should:
 Produce rich lather,
 Non-irritant to skin,
 Smooth, soft & free from lumps,
 Sufficient tacky to adhere both on face & brush,
 Consistency: wide tempt. range

13. MANUFACTURING CONSIDERATIONS
 Stable during hot & cold weather,
 Ease of transfer of cream to the face,
 Ease of its spreading on face,
 Wetting properties of foam, its texture, rheology & stability,
 Gliding properties for ease of shaving,
 Compatibility & acceptance of perfume,
 Compatibility with container
 Effect of cream on life of razor blade

14. COMPOSITION
 Soaps
 Superfatting agent
 Humectants
 Other additives
 Additives are added for their special effects
 Example:
 Disinfectants
 Cooling effect
 Lubrication
 Perfumes or flavors
 Preservatives

15. SOAPS USED IN SHAVING SOAPS
 Main constituents of shaving soaps
 Consist of potassium & sodium soap
 Potassium soaps are preferred due to their
 high solubility,
 quicker effect &
 denser lather
 Examples:
 Potassium soap of myristic acid + small qty. of lauric acid + lower fatty acid
 Lauric acid: produce good & unstable soap
 Lower fatty acid: higher fatty acid (having C atom 8 -10 produces irritating effect
so not used)

16. SUPERFATTING AGENT IN SHAVING SOAPS
 Used to produce lather softer & creamier
 Have emollient effect on skin
 Used in 30% conc.
 Example:
 Mineral oil,
 Petrolatum,
 Free fatty acid,
 Fatty alcohol,
 Polyoxyethylene glycol &
 Lanolin
 Triethanolamine is avoided in shaving creams coz it may discolor
creams & produce odor.

17. HUMECTANTS & OTHER INGREDIENTS
 To keep formulation in a proper physical state i.e. avoid drying of the
shaving creams or soaps
 Example:
 Glycerin, Sorbitol, PG
 PG influences texture of the formulation
 Disinfectants (chlorhexidine)
 Cooling effect (menthol)
 Lubrication (silicones)
 Perfumes or flavors
 Preservatives

18. FORMULAE & GENERAL PROCEDURE
 Stearic acid : 28%
 Coconut oil : 12%
 Palm oil : 5%
 Potassium hydroxide : 6.5%
 Sodium hydroxide : 1.3%
 Glycerin : 10%
 Water to make : 100%
 Perfume : q.s.
 Preservative : q.s.
 Procedure:
 Melt half qty. of stearic acid with coconut oil & palm oil, in water bath
 Dissolve alkalies in water
 Add melted stearic acid into mixture of alkalies by stirring until complete saponification
 Add remaining portion of stearic acid & glycerin with stirring to form creamy paste
 Heat remaining qty. of water to about 450
C add quickly into the cream with stirring
 Add required qty. of perfume & preservatives.
 Stir thoroughly to mix uniformly.

19.  30 – 50 % of soap,
 Stearic acid alone do not produce sufficient foam, but along with
coconut fatty acids are used.
 Generally stearic acid: coconut oil is 75:25.
 Sodium hydroxide & potassium hydroxide are used in combination for
saponification of oils.
 Ratio is 1:5 (NaOH used to increase stability) but NaOH not exceeds
15% as it forms thick & stingy product.

20.  pH about 10
 The quality of stearic acid suitable or not,
 Higher conc. of oil irritating to sensitive skin,
 Effect of tempt.
 Increase: gel – like,
 Decrease: hard & difficult to apply.
 Can be reduced by using borax (0.5%),
 Corrosion of metallic tubes by creams: reduced by using sodium silicate (1- 1.5%)
 Subs. which reduces surface tension and produce a fine bubble lather: saponins,
sodium chlorate & lecithin.

21. BRUSHLESS SHAVING CREAMS
As the name indicates it does not require brush for
applying.
The creams are applied & spread with fingers.
When using brushless shaving cream, the face should be
prepared for use by washing it with soap & water & the
cream should be applied.
These are o/w emulsions

22. FORMULATION
Generally same ings. can be used in brushless shaving creams.
Triethanolamine may be used
Lanolin used in higher proportion
Other additional ings. are:
 Gum karaya, MC, PVP, Sodium CMC
 Above ings. provide body to the creams & slip to the face.
Preservatives like esters of p- hydroxy benzoates are used to
prevent from microbial growth.

23. FORMULAE & GENERAL PROCEDURE:
 Stearic acid : 10 -20 %
 Mineral oil : 2 -12%
 Alkali : 0.5 -2%
 Lanolin : 0 - 5%
 Gums / thickeners : 0 -0.5%
 Water : 60 -75%
 Preservative : q.s
 General Procedure:
 Heat water & water soluble ings. at 60- 650
C
 Add to the molten oil & fats heated to the same temperature with stirring
 Stirring is continued till emulsification is complete
 Cream is cooled about 450
C
 Add perfume & blend it
 Gently stir before filling in tube.

24. DIRECTION FOR USE
Twist off cap and remove foil seal.
Wash face with soap and water.
Rinse.
Soap face again.
Do not rinse.
Apply Brushless shaving cream immediately.
Smooth it upward into beard to get the full benefit of Brushless
shaving cream beard conditioning effect.
Shave, wetting razor frequently.

25. LABEL, CONTAINER & WARNING
 LABEL:
 For external use only
 Keep away from children reach
 Do not use if there is change in physical form or dried or opened before several
months.
 CONTAINER:
 Soap:
 Cream:
 WARNING:
 Do not use if seal is not intact

26. MARKETED PRODUCTS
Palmolive
Barbasol
Park Avenue

27. AEROSOL PREPARATIONS
 These are o/w emulsions
 Propellants are generally used in this
preparations
 When the preparation is discharged to the atm.
the droplets of propellant vaporizes producing
vapor bubble surrounded by aq. surfactant
phase.
 Contents :
 5-13% of propellants
 87-95% of shaving cream base.

28. FORMULTION OF AEROSOL SHAVING
LATHER
 Saturated fatty acids:
 main ingredient , 7 to 9%
 Stearic acid no important caused stiffer foams
 Alkalies:
 Triethanolamine, KOH or mixture of both
 1- 3% of free fatty acids.
 Surfactants:
 Emulsion stability: glyceryl monostearate,
 Wetting property of foam: SLS,
 Water dispensibility: polyethoxylated fatty alcohols,
 Emolliency: ethoxylated lanolin.
 Humectants:
 Glycerin, PG, sorbitol, 3 to 10%

29.  Lubricants:
 Passage of razor over the face easy
 Lanolin, silicone fluid of IPM
 1 to 2%
 Propellants:
 Fluorocarbons (7 to 10%),
 Hydrocarbons (2.8 to 3.5%).
 Perfumes: (0.15 to 0. 65%)
 Cooling agent: menthol (0.05 to 0.2%),
 Colors, preservatives,
 Bacteriostatic agent (trichloro hydroxy diphenyl ether 0.05%)

30. AFTER SHAVE PREPARATIONS
 Aftershave is a lotion, gel, or liquid used mainly by men after they
have finished shaving.
 It may contain an antiseptic agent such as alcohol to prevent infection
from cuts as well as numb damaged skin, a perfume to enhance scent,
and a moisturizer to soften the skin.
 An alcohol-based, fragrance-free astringent can be used as an
aftershave.
 The alcohol in the aftershave closes pores in the skin and prevents
irritation due to razor burn.

31. Types of Aftershave
Alcohol based Aftershave
Lotion based Aftershave
Antiseptic Aftershave

32. ALCOHOL BASED AFTERSHAVE
The pores are left open and the skin gets roughed up by
dragging a sharp razor across the face.
Thus it is generally, the man will usually rinse off his face
and then apply cold water in an attempt to close down the
pores and then splash on some aftershave.
An alcohol based aftershave will definitely close down those
facial pores which is what causes the characteristic stinging.

33. LOTION BASED AFTERSHAVE
 A lotion is smooth to put on. It usually doesn't provide the
strengthening effect that some men really enjoy but it helps to
comfort the skin immediately from the itches and burning
sensations as the basic result of shaving.
 Some lotions even consist of a moisturizing effect to sooth the skin
that immediately helps reduce redness, razor burn, and other
aggravations associated with the impact of shaving.
 Moreover the mild scent of an aftershave lotion does not die out
within a short period of time as it does in case of an alcohol based
after shave where the scent evaporates pretty quickly.

34. ANTISEPTIC AFTERSHAVE
An antiseptic is a substance that prevents the growth and
reproduction of various micro-organisms (such as bacteria,
fungi, protozoa, and viruses) on the external surfaces of the body.
Some are true germicides, capable of destroying the bacteria,
while others merely prevent or inhibit their growth.
The main purpose served by antiseptics is to reduce the
possibility of sepsis, infection, or putrefaction by germs.

35. AFTERSHAVE PRODUCTS
Antiseptics: Generally used alcohol but causes ingrown of hair so
other natural antiseptic like tea tree oil is used.
Fragrance:
 based on individual
 Cheaper products contain more fragrance of low quality
 Sometime may cause allergy
Moisturizers:
 A nourishing moisturizer is best.
 e.g. Vitamin E, aloe vera, chamomile, allantoin, panthenol

36. MARKETED PRODUCTS
Adidas After Shave
British Sterling
Brut Lotion
Old Spice Shave Care
Axe
Brut.

37. EVALUATION OF SHAVING CREAMS & SOAPS
Determination of free caustic alkali
Determination of total free acids
Determination of total fatty materials
Foam formation
Skin sensitization test
Stability of the cream

38. EVALUATION OF AFTER SHAVE LOTIONS
Antiseptic property
Determination of alcohol content
Dermatological safety

39. ANY QUESTION ?????