formulation and evaluation of lipsticks

1. RAGAVENDRA
INSTITUTE OF
PHARMACEUTICAL
EDUCATION AND
RESEARCH

4. INTRODUCTION:
• Lipstick are basically dispersions of colouring
matter in a base containing a suitable blend of
oils, fats and waxes suitably perfume, flavoured
and moulded in the form of stick and enclosed in
a case.
• Base – emollient action

5. CHARACTERISTICS:
• It should be smooth and easy to apply leaving a
thin film on lips.
• It should have a good degree of indelibility.
• It should have high retention of colour intensity.
• It should be free from grittiness and should be
non-drying.
• It should have required plasticity.
• It should be innocuous externally as well as
internally.

6. • It should have pleasant odour/flavour.
• It should not lose its smooth and shiny appearance
during storage.
• Is should remain free from bloom or sweating during
storage.
• It should remain firm within reasonable variation of
climatic temperature.

7. COMPOSITION:
• Wax mixture,
• Oil mixture,
• Bromo mixture,
• Colours,
• Preservatives
• Fragrance,
• Antioxidants,
• Surfactants and other additives

8. Formulation:
Carnauba wax – 10g
Bees wax – 15g
Lanolin – 5g
Cetyl alcohol – 4g
Castor oil – 62g
Candelilla wax – 2g
Ozokerite wax – 2g
Dye – q.s
Perfume – q.s

9. Manufacture of lipsticks:
• Steps involved is:
- Melting and mixing.
- Moulding.
- Labelling and packing.
DEFECTS IN LIPSTICKS:

10. EVALUATION OF LIPSTICK:
• Colour control,
• Determination of melting point(heat test),
• Softening point,
• Microbial testing,
• Rancidity,
• Rupture test,
• Breaking load test.

11. Colour control:
• Colour control of lipstick is critical ,
manufacture to be aware of this.
• Colorimetric equipment is used to provide some
control on the shades of lipstick.
• This equipment gives a numerical reading of the
shade, when mixed, so it can identically match
previous batches.

12. DETERMINATION OF MELTING POINT:
• The lipstick base
should have a M.P.
between 55 – 75°C

13. SOFTENING POINT:
• A lipstick should withstand the range of
conditions to which it will subjected in the
consumers handbag.
• It should be resistant to varying temp & be just
as easy to apply in the hot as in cold weather.
• Softening point range 50-550C.
• Method: Ring and Ball method Second Method.

14. Microbial testing:
• Contamination from raw materials, moulds,
storage kettles or lipstick container can lead to
microbial growth.
• The test consist of plating a known mass of the
sample on two selected culture media
specifically suitable for the growth of bacteria
fungi incubating them for a specified period to
permit the development of visual colonies for
counting.
• The limit is, not more than 100 µo/gm

15. Rancidity:
• Rancidification is the decomposition of fats, oils
and other lipids by hydrolysis or oxidation.
• It leads to obnoxious odour, bad taste & sticky
product & sometimes change of colour of the
product.
• Testing of rancidity can be done by determining
its peroxide number

16. Breaking load test:
• The test is to find out the
value of maximum load
that a lipstick can
withstand before it breaks.
• The protruded lipstick
salve is subjected to a
number of weights hanging
from it.
• The weight at which the
lipstick breaks is its
Breaking Load

17. FACTS:
• First manmade lipsticks appeared around four to five
thousand years ago in Ancient Mesopotamia.
• 80% of the American women regularly wear lipstick and
over 25% won’t leave house without wearing it.
• Lipsticks can contain fish scales, and castor oil that
provides lips with shiny film that can’t be smeared easily.
• During dark and middle ages in Europe, lipsticks were
often viewed as a fashion accessory of prostitutes and
lower class women.
• One of the most expensive lipsticks in the world is
Guerlain’s KissKiss Gold and Diamonds Lipstick, which
will set you back $62,000.

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