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COSMETICS
     SUBMITTED BY: SOUMYA.A
Cosmetics for hair
HAIR COSMETICS

1      HAIR TONICS

2      HAIR OIL

3      HAIR REMOVERS

4      HAIR COLOURENTS

5      SHAVING PREPARATION
HAIR TONICS


• For Oily Scalps: To correct the oily
  condition……
• For Dry scalps: to supplement oily
  character…..
Ingredients

• Industrial methylated spirit diluted with water : common
  vehicle.

• 10-95% alcohol act as a solvent for the removal of fatty

  acid – protein complex from the hair.

• 2-5% glycerin : emollient and lubricating effect and act
  as a co solvent.
• Rubifacient drugs to stimulate hair growth.

Eg: cantharides, pilocarpine, quinine, ammonia, rosemary
  oil…

• Vitamins like Vit F, VitK , biotin, pantothenic acid

  protein hydrolisation pdt and nucleic acid.

• Anti dandruff material like sulphur, cationic
  surfactants,selinium and cadmium sulphide etc.
1. Resorcinol :
•   Power full antiseptic property .
•    Less than 1% is used in hair tonics..

•    Large dose is toxic due to the production of
    methamoglobin.

2. Beta naphthol:

• Powerful antiseptic (0.1%)

• Slightly soluble in water, boric acid increases its

    solubility.
3. Quinine :Keep the scalps sterile and stimulate it by
  friction.

4. Capsicum:

• Tincture of capsicum is used.

5. Cantharides:

• Irritating stimulant properties on the scalps.

6.Vitamins and unsaturated acid:

• Used in conjugation for their hair growing property.
Hair conditioner
• Hair conditioner alter the texture and appearance of human
  hair and to improve damaged hair.

• Used after shampoo, to render the hair shinier, easy to comb,
  and free from static electricity when dry.

• Conditioners are usually based on cationic detergents and
  fatty materials like lanolin or mineral oil.
Ingredients
1. Moisturizers.

• Whose role is to hold moisture in the hair. Usually these
  contain high proportions of humectants.

2. Re constructors.

• Usually containing hydrolyzed protein.

• Their role is to penetrate the hair and strengthen its structure
  through polymer cross linking.

3. Detanglers.

• Which modify the hair surface by pH as acidifiers, and/or by
  coating it with polymers, as glossers.
4. Acidifiers.

• Acidity regulators which maintain the conditioner's pH at
  about 2.5–3.5

5.Thermal protectors.

• Usually heat-absorbing polymers, shielding the hair against
  excessive heat

e.g., blow-drying or curling irons or hot rollers.
6. Surfactants.

• Hair consists of approximately 97% of a protein called keratin, it
    contains negatively-charged amino acids

•   Hair conditioners therefore usually contain cationic surfactants,
    which don't wash out completely, because their hydrophilic ends
    strongly bind to keratin.

• The hydrophobic ends of the surfactant molecules then act as the
    new hair surface.
7. Oils (EFAs).

  Which can help dry/porous hair become more soft and
  pliable.

8. Sequestrants.

  The scalp produce natural oil called sebum. EFAs are the
  closest thing to natural sebum.

9. Lubricants.

  Such as fatty alcohols, panthenol, dimethicone, etc for better
  function in hard water.
Hair oil


• For nourishment and care of hair.

• Either in the form of pure oil or some ingredients are

  dissolved in it.
In vitro anti microbiological tests
  against some specific organisms
  using liquid or solid medium             Antiseptic
                                           property




                                        EVALUATION

                          Stability                         Sensitivity
                            test                               test

Effect of heat, light etc on the             Antiseptics,may cause irritation, sensitization
stability.Accelerated stability study        or photosensitization of the skin. This can be
is done for determining stability.           done by patch test, either open or occlusive.
HAIR REMOVERS

DEPILATORIES                                                    EPILATORIES




 Mechanical                                                           Chemical



              For removing unwanted hairs. Several methods
              like waxing threading etc…

              Other various methods are electrolysis and diathermy.
Depilatories
• For degradation of superficial hair
  chemically without affecting the skin.

• Act by degrading the hair keratin.

• Contain alkaline solutions and reducing

  agents.

• Which cause swelling of hair fiber and
  breakdown of cystine bridges between
  adjacent polypeptide chains.
Formula


1.   Strontium sulphide   20g
2.   Talc                 20g
3.   Methyl cellulose     3g
4.   Glycerine            15g
5.   Water                42g
6.   Perfume              q.s
7.   Preservative         q.s
Ingredients

1.   Inorganic Sulphides :

a) Sodium sulphide: (2%) at pH 12 (not used due to
     strong action on skin)

b) Barium sulphide: highly toxic

c) Calcium sulphide: less toxic, less effective.

d) Strontium sulphide: better choice.(25-50%)

     action within 3 min.

Disadv: unpleasent odour (formation of hydrogen
     sulphide)
2.Thioglycolates :
 Most widely used active ingredient are substituted
   mercaptans
 Used in conjugation with alkali
 2.5 – 4% of calcium thioglycolate in conjugn with CaOH at
   pH 11-12 take 5-15 min for hair removal.
 Less toxic and less odour than sulphides.
3. Stannites :
 Sodium stannite is commonly used
 In presence of water it produces strong reducing and alkaline
  effect
4. Enzymes :
 Keratinase enzyme have depilatory action

 Non irritant and odourless

 3-4%is used and optimum pH is 7-8

5. Other additives :
Humectant : prevent quick drying

Eg: Glycerin, Sorbitol

Thickening Agent: Starch, Methylcellulose, Mucin.

 PEG used to form film.

 Fat used for skin protection & conditioning.
EPILATORIES

• Plucking the hair either by tweezers,

  threading or by waxing.

• Rosin and wax are the main ingredient.

• Local anesthetic benzocain.

• Camphor, Hexachlorophane is also

  added.
EVALUATION
•Estimation  of         hair
removing agent.
•Instrumental analysis
                                                      •Rabbit test.
                           CHEMICAL        TOXICITY
                           ANALYSIS          TEST     •Microscopical study




                               STABILITY   RHEOLOGY
                                 TEST

Accelarated stability                                   Viscometer
       study
HAIR COLORENTS /DYES
• Ideal hair dye should have certain properties……

• Imprtant charecterestic to be considered are,

  Molecular size and pH

• Doesn’t permit molecules larger than ethylene glycol.

• Higher pH greater absorption but damage the hair.
Common ingredients in hair dyes:
In general, hair dyes include

 DYES

• The dye chemicals are usually amino compounds.
•    Metal oxides, such as titanium dioxide and iron oxide, are
     often used as pigments.


 MODIFIERS
• They stabilize the dye pigments or otherwise act to modify the
  shade.
• One commonly used - resorcinol.
 Alkalizers

• Alkalizers are added to change the pH of the dye formula,
    because the dyes work best in a highly alkaline composition.

•   Ammonium hydroxide is a common alkalizer.

 Antioxidants

• Antioxidants protect the dye from oxidizing with air. Most
    commonly used is sodium sulfite.
 Ammonia: used to open hair shaft for dye penetration.


 Agents which make the dye more or less permanent.


 Soaps, wetting agents, fragrance, softening agents.
Classification

     Temporary colorant
     Semi- permanent colorant
     Permanent colorant
     Lightners or Bleaches
Temporary Color

These dyes or colorants impart color to the hair for a
short time.
Absorption of the dye stuff takes place only on hair
cuticle not penetrate in to the cortex and medulla.
pH of the solution is adjusted at about 5.
Semitransparent Colorants

These colorants give stronger coloration to the hair, and can
withstand up to six to eight shampooing.
Mainly based on basic dye stuff of nitro amino dyes. These are
usually red or yellow.
A mixture anionic and / or non ionic surfactant with a cation
active dye is used to get semitransparent coloring.
Formation of anion cation colour complex.
Permanent colorants

• These are either vegetable origin or salts of heavy metals.

• The main ingredients of the formulations are

1. Base: Solution, emulsion , Gel, Powder, Shampoo.

2. Dye: Oxidation Base

3. Alkali: Ammonia.

4. Antioxidants: Ammonium Thioglycolate.
Hair lighteners and bleaches

• Bleaching, also referred to as hair lightening or
  decolorizing

• Destruction of melanin by chemical reaction.

• Hydrogen peroxide (3-5%) and ammonium hydroxide are
  frequently used.

• EDTA – sequestering agent
SHAVING PPREPARATION



• Preparation used before shaving
• Preparation used after shaving
Preparation used before shaving

1. For shaving with razor blade.
classified in to ,

I. Shaving soaps: solids and creams

II. Brushless shaving cream.

III.Aerosol preparation.
2. For electric shaving.


   For lubrication: Talc, Magnesiumstearate

   To absorb perspiration: Kaolin, Magnesium Carbonate

   For drying the skin : Alcohol

   Astringent And Antiseptics
Preparation used after shaving
• To cool and refresh the skin.

• Used in the form of lotions, creams and powders.

• Contain antiseptics, emollient etc.

• Also contain menthol, glycerin, boric acid, alum and
  chloroform.
evaluation
• For shaving preparation:
1. Determination of free caustic alkali.

2. Determination of potash soap.

3. Determination of total free acid.

4. Determination of total fatty material

5. Foam formation

6. Skin sensitization.

7. Stability of the cream
• For after shave lotion:
1. Antiseptic property.

2. Determination of alcohol content

3. Dermatological test.
Cosmetics for hair

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Cosmetics for hair

  • 1. L/O/G/O COSMETICS SUBMITTED BY: SOUMYA.A
  • 3. HAIR COSMETICS 1 HAIR TONICS 2 HAIR OIL 3 HAIR REMOVERS 4 HAIR COLOURENTS 5 SHAVING PREPARATION
  • 4. HAIR TONICS • For Oily Scalps: To correct the oily condition…… • For Dry scalps: to supplement oily character…..
  • 5. Ingredients • Industrial methylated spirit diluted with water : common vehicle. • 10-95% alcohol act as a solvent for the removal of fatty acid – protein complex from the hair. • 2-5% glycerin : emollient and lubricating effect and act as a co solvent.
  • 6. • Rubifacient drugs to stimulate hair growth. Eg: cantharides, pilocarpine, quinine, ammonia, rosemary oil… • Vitamins like Vit F, VitK , biotin, pantothenic acid protein hydrolisation pdt and nucleic acid. • Anti dandruff material like sulphur, cationic surfactants,selinium and cadmium sulphide etc.
  • 7. 1. Resorcinol : • Power full antiseptic property . • Less than 1% is used in hair tonics.. • Large dose is toxic due to the production of methamoglobin. 2. Beta naphthol: • Powerful antiseptic (0.1%) • Slightly soluble in water, boric acid increases its solubility.
  • 8. 3. Quinine :Keep the scalps sterile and stimulate it by friction. 4. Capsicum: • Tincture of capsicum is used. 5. Cantharides: • Irritating stimulant properties on the scalps. 6.Vitamins and unsaturated acid: • Used in conjugation for their hair growing property.
  • 9. Hair conditioner • Hair conditioner alter the texture and appearance of human hair and to improve damaged hair. • Used after shampoo, to render the hair shinier, easy to comb, and free from static electricity when dry. • Conditioners are usually based on cationic detergents and fatty materials like lanolin or mineral oil.
  • 10. Ingredients 1. Moisturizers. • Whose role is to hold moisture in the hair. Usually these contain high proportions of humectants. 2. Re constructors. • Usually containing hydrolyzed protein. • Their role is to penetrate the hair and strengthen its structure through polymer cross linking. 3. Detanglers. • Which modify the hair surface by pH as acidifiers, and/or by coating it with polymers, as glossers.
  • 11. 4. Acidifiers. • Acidity regulators which maintain the conditioner's pH at about 2.5–3.5 5.Thermal protectors. • Usually heat-absorbing polymers, shielding the hair against excessive heat e.g., blow-drying or curling irons or hot rollers.
  • 12. 6. Surfactants. • Hair consists of approximately 97% of a protein called keratin, it contains negatively-charged amino acids • Hair conditioners therefore usually contain cationic surfactants, which don't wash out completely, because their hydrophilic ends strongly bind to keratin. • The hydrophobic ends of the surfactant molecules then act as the new hair surface.
  • 13. 7. Oils (EFAs). Which can help dry/porous hair become more soft and pliable. 8. Sequestrants. The scalp produce natural oil called sebum. EFAs are the closest thing to natural sebum. 9. Lubricants. Such as fatty alcohols, panthenol, dimethicone, etc for better function in hard water.
  • 14.
  • 15. Hair oil • For nourishment and care of hair. • Either in the form of pure oil or some ingredients are dissolved in it.
  • 16. In vitro anti microbiological tests against some specific organisms using liquid or solid medium Antiseptic property EVALUATION Stability Sensitivity test test Effect of heat, light etc on the Antiseptics,may cause irritation, sensitization stability.Accelerated stability study or photosensitization of the skin. This can be is done for determining stability. done by patch test, either open or occlusive.
  • 17. HAIR REMOVERS DEPILATORIES EPILATORIES Mechanical Chemical For removing unwanted hairs. Several methods like waxing threading etc… Other various methods are electrolysis and diathermy.
  • 18. Depilatories • For degradation of superficial hair chemically without affecting the skin. • Act by degrading the hair keratin. • Contain alkaline solutions and reducing agents. • Which cause swelling of hair fiber and breakdown of cystine bridges between adjacent polypeptide chains.
  • 19. Formula 1. Strontium sulphide 20g 2. Talc 20g 3. Methyl cellulose 3g 4. Glycerine 15g 5. Water 42g 6. Perfume q.s 7. Preservative q.s
  • 20. Ingredients 1. Inorganic Sulphides : a) Sodium sulphide: (2%) at pH 12 (not used due to strong action on skin) b) Barium sulphide: highly toxic c) Calcium sulphide: less toxic, less effective. d) Strontium sulphide: better choice.(25-50%) action within 3 min. Disadv: unpleasent odour (formation of hydrogen sulphide)
  • 21. 2.Thioglycolates :  Most widely used active ingredient are substituted mercaptans  Used in conjugation with alkali  2.5 – 4% of calcium thioglycolate in conjugn with CaOH at pH 11-12 take 5-15 min for hair removal.  Less toxic and less odour than sulphides. 3. Stannites :  Sodium stannite is commonly used  In presence of water it produces strong reducing and alkaline effect
  • 22. 4. Enzymes :  Keratinase enzyme have depilatory action  Non irritant and odourless  3-4%is used and optimum pH is 7-8 5. Other additives : Humectant : prevent quick drying Eg: Glycerin, Sorbitol Thickening Agent: Starch, Methylcellulose, Mucin.  PEG used to form film.  Fat used for skin protection & conditioning.
  • 23. EPILATORIES • Plucking the hair either by tweezers, threading or by waxing. • Rosin and wax are the main ingredient. • Local anesthetic benzocain. • Camphor, Hexachlorophane is also added.
  • 24. EVALUATION •Estimation of hair removing agent. •Instrumental analysis •Rabbit test. CHEMICAL TOXICITY ANALYSIS TEST •Microscopical study STABILITY RHEOLOGY TEST Accelarated stability Viscometer study
  • 25. HAIR COLORENTS /DYES • Ideal hair dye should have certain properties…… • Imprtant charecterestic to be considered are, Molecular size and pH • Doesn’t permit molecules larger than ethylene glycol. • Higher pH greater absorption but damage the hair.
  • 26. Common ingredients in hair dyes: In general, hair dyes include  DYES • The dye chemicals are usually amino compounds. • Metal oxides, such as titanium dioxide and iron oxide, are often used as pigments.  MODIFIERS • They stabilize the dye pigments or otherwise act to modify the shade. • One commonly used - resorcinol.
  • 27.  Alkalizers • Alkalizers are added to change the pH of the dye formula, because the dyes work best in a highly alkaline composition. • Ammonium hydroxide is a common alkalizer.  Antioxidants • Antioxidants protect the dye from oxidizing with air. Most commonly used is sodium sulfite.
  • 28.  Ammonia: used to open hair shaft for dye penetration.  Agents which make the dye more or less permanent.  Soaps, wetting agents, fragrance, softening agents.
  • 29. Classification Temporary colorant Semi- permanent colorant Permanent colorant Lightners or Bleaches
  • 30. Temporary Color These dyes or colorants impart color to the hair for a short time. Absorption of the dye stuff takes place only on hair cuticle not penetrate in to the cortex and medulla. pH of the solution is adjusted at about 5.
  • 31. Semitransparent Colorants These colorants give stronger coloration to the hair, and can withstand up to six to eight shampooing. Mainly based on basic dye stuff of nitro amino dyes. These are usually red or yellow. A mixture anionic and / or non ionic surfactant with a cation active dye is used to get semitransparent coloring. Formation of anion cation colour complex.
  • 32. Permanent colorants • These are either vegetable origin or salts of heavy metals. • The main ingredients of the formulations are 1. Base: Solution, emulsion , Gel, Powder, Shampoo. 2. Dye: Oxidation Base 3. Alkali: Ammonia. 4. Antioxidants: Ammonium Thioglycolate.
  • 33. Hair lighteners and bleaches • Bleaching, also referred to as hair lightening or decolorizing • Destruction of melanin by chemical reaction. • Hydrogen peroxide (3-5%) and ammonium hydroxide are frequently used. • EDTA – sequestering agent
  • 34. SHAVING PPREPARATION • Preparation used before shaving • Preparation used after shaving
  • 35. Preparation used before shaving 1. For shaving with razor blade. classified in to , I. Shaving soaps: solids and creams II. Brushless shaving cream. III.Aerosol preparation.
  • 36. 2. For electric shaving.  For lubrication: Talc, Magnesiumstearate  To absorb perspiration: Kaolin, Magnesium Carbonate  For drying the skin : Alcohol  Astringent And Antiseptics
  • 37. Preparation used after shaving • To cool and refresh the skin. • Used in the form of lotions, creams and powders. • Contain antiseptics, emollient etc. • Also contain menthol, glycerin, boric acid, alum and chloroform.
  • 38. evaluation • For shaving preparation: 1. Determination of free caustic alkali. 2. Determination of potash soap. 3. Determination of total free acid. 4. Determination of total fatty material 5. Foam formation 6. Skin sensitization. 7. Stability of the cream
  • 39. • For after shave lotion: 1. Antiseptic property. 2. Determination of alcohol content 3. Dermatological test.