Lesson 1 shampoo
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The document discusses shampoo formulations and ingredients. It provides an overview of the shampoo market and top brands. It discusses common consumer problems that shampoos address like cleaning hair and providing moisture. The key part is surfactant science, as surfactants are the primary active ingredients in shampoo that allow it to clean hair. Different types of surfactants like anionic, amphoteric and nonionic are described. Example formulations for normal, volumizing and moisturizing shampoos are provided.
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Lesson 1 shampoo
- 2. Lesson Topics • Shampoo market overview • Consumer problems • Surfactant science • Formulating a shampoo • Testing
- 3. Lesson Objectives • Introduce the shampoo market • Explain the problems shampoo resolves • Discuss surfactant properties and relevance • Explain what ingredients are most frequently used in shampoo formulations and why • How to test a shampoo formula BCC chapters 7, 11, 32, 33, 52
- 5. Shampoos • Solution cosmetic designed to clean hair and leave it in a more manageable state • Solutions—one of the simplest types of cosmetic formulas
- 6. Shampoo Market • Overall market – Hair care market estimated ~ $40 billion worldwide – Amount of money spent in US on shampoo/ conditioner • $2.26 billion (Food, Drug, Mass market)* *Does not include Walmart
- 7. Top US Brands *Data from IRI covering 52 weeks ending 5/2009 Brand Pantene—P&G Head & Shoulders—P&G Herbal Essences—P&G Suave—Unilever Garnier (Fructis)—L’Oréal Tresemme—Alberto Culver Matrix (Biolage)—L’Oréal L'Oreal (Vive)—L’Oréal Dove—Unilever Private Label John Frieda—Kao Market Share, % 16 7.6 7.5 6.9 6.6 4.0 3.9 3.8 3.3 3.3 3.2
- 8. Top US Brands *Data from IRI covering 52 weeks ending 5/2009 Brands Suave—Unilever Pantene—P&G VO5—Alberto Culver Herbal Essences—P&G Garnier (Fructis)—L’Oréal Head & Shoulders—P&G L’Oreal (Vive)—L’Oréal Tresemme—Alberto Culver Units Sold (millions) 20.9 19.5 11.8 11.5 10.6 7.5 5.4 5.2
- 9. Shampoo Market • Types of shampoo (marketing) – Normal – Extra body (volumizing, thickening, etc) – Moisturizing (smoothing, shine, restore) – Strengthening – Curl – 2-in-1 – Color-treated – Color-enhancing – Baby (tear-free) – Natural
- 10. Shampoo Market • Specialty – Anti-dandruff – Anti-lice – Hair loss treatments • Significantly Different – Powdered shampoos – No-rinse shampoo – Co-washing
- 11. Consumer Problems • Clean hair/oil removal • Moisturize • Easier to comb • Prevent frizz • Shine • Volume • Medicated – Anti-dandruff – Anti-lice – Hair loss ©Fotolia
- 12. Problem • Clean hair/oil removal • Moisturize • Easier to comb • Prevent frizz • Shine • Volume • Medicated – Anti-dandruff – Anti-lice – Hair loss Addressing the Problems Technology • Surfactants • Conditioning agents – Anti-dandruff agents – Acaracides – Minoxidyl
- 14. Surfactants • Defined – Molecules compatible with water and oil – Surfactant = Surface Active Agent
- 15. Surfactant Molecule Hydrophilic = Lipophobic Hydrophobic = Lipophilic
- 16. Surfactant in Solution • Reduces surface tension • Helps disperse oil in water (or water in oil) • Forms micelles to suspend particles
- 17. Surfactant • Typical surfactant mixture – Surfactant is mixed with oil – Lipophilic tails orient with oil – Polar heads orient with water – Micelles are created • Micelle formation • Critical micelle concentration
- 18. Surfactant Solutions • Depending on concentration different structures are formed • Simple shampoos are basically surfactant solutions (no oils)
- 20. Surfactant Functions • Key in Shampoos – Cleaning/Detergency – Wetting – Dispersing – Foaming – Thickening – Conditioning • Other functions ─ Emulsification ─ Solubilization ─ Penetration enhancement ─ Antimicrobial activity ─ Opacification
- 21. Detergency • Two types of “dirt” in hair – Solid particulate – Oily deposits • Solid particulates – From pollution, hair products – Adhere via Van der Waals forces – Anionics and nonionics increase hydrophylicity of surface
- 22. Detergency • How surfactants remove liquids – Remove dirt and grease from surfaces – Mechanism • Surfactant orients along oil/water interface • Lifts oil off surface suspending in solution • Rinse water removes the oil micelle
- 23. Wetting • Breaks down the inherent surface tension of water • Water with surfactant can spread better on the hair
- 24. Dispersing • Particles are suspended in the shampoo/ water solution • They are removed upon rinsing
- 25. Foaming • Air is dispersed in a continuous liquid medium • Air bubbles are surrounded by thin layers of liquid films • Foam doesn’t contribute much to removal of dirt – Consumers like foam but it doesn’t really mean the product cleans better
- 26. Thickening • Viscosity of surfactant solution can be affected by – Concentration of surfactant – Salt concentration – pH
- 27. Types of Surfactants • Anionic – Negatively charged • Amphoteric (Zwitterionic) – Capable of both positive and negative charges • Cationic – Positively charged • Nonionic – No charge
- 28. Anionic Surfactants • These are the primary shampoo surfactants • Alkyl Sulfates – Sodium Laurel Sulfate (SLS) • Alkyl Ether Sulfates – Ammonium Laurel Ethyl Sulfate (ALES) • Alpha-Olefin Sulfonates
- 29. Anionic Surfactants • Other types – Sulfosuccinates – Alkylbenzene Sulfonates – Acyl Methyltaurates – Acyl Sarcosinates – Acyl Isethionates – Acyl Polypeptide Condensates – Monoglyceride Sulfates – Fatty Glyceryl Ether Sulfonates
- 30. Anionics • Why use them? – Excellent detergency – Relatively inexpensive – Good foaming – Highly stable • Drawbacks – Can be irritating – Drying to hair
- 31. Amphoteric Surfactants • Can have a positive or negative charge depending on the pH of the solution • Zwitterionic • Types – Cocamidopropyl Betaine – Cocoamphopropionate – Sodium Lauraminopropionate
- 32. Amphoteric Surfactants • Why use them? – Good detergency – Less irritating than anionics – Helps thicken system – Helps improve foam • Drawbacks – More expensive – Do not foam well enough on their own
- 33. Nonionic Surfactants • Surfactant molecules with no charge • Types – Fatty Alkanolamides • Lauramide DEA • Cocamide DEA – Amine Oxides • Lauramine Oxide • Stearamine Oxide
- 34. Nonionic Surfactants • Why use them? – Foam enhancer – Reduce irritation – Increase viscosity – Conditioning effect – Antistatic effect – Solubilize fragrances – Baby shampoos • PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate • Drawbacks ─ Safety issues ─ More expensive ─ Do not foam well on their own
- 35. Cationics • Positively charged surfactant molecules • Types – Cetrimonium Chloride – Stearylalkonium Chloride • Not used for shampoos – Don’t clean as well – Don’t rinse as well – Don’t foam as well
- 37. Shampoo Characteristics • Aesthetics – Appearance • Clear • Pearlized – Thickness (Viscosity) • Foam – Creamy, rich to thin and loose • Harshness • Conditioning effects
- 38. Basic Types of Shampoos • Normal • Volumizing • Moisturizing • 2-in-1 • Baby • Natural
- 40. Shampoo Formula • Water • Surfactant • Secondary surfactant • Preservative • Conditioning agent • Color • Fragrance • Feature ingredients • Specialty ingredients
- 41. Shampoo Formula • Secondary Surfactant – Modify viscosity – Improve foam – Reduce irritation • Aesthetic ingredients – Opacifying agent – Clarifying agents – Colorants
- 42. Shampoo Formula • Conditioning agents – Silicones – Cationic polymers • Preservatives • Fragrance • Feature Ingredients • Formula Adjusters – Acid – Chelating agents
- 43. Cosmetic Formula Sheet Formula Name: Type formula name here Batch size: 500 grams Code Ingredient % Amount In Batch Raw Material Lot No. Time Added Temp. 1 Water 100.000 500.00 2 0.00 3 0.00 4 0.00 5 0.00 6 0.00 7 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 TOTAL 100.00 500.00 Procedure Specifications
- 44. Normal Shampoo Formula Sheet Formula Name: Basic Clear Cleansing Shampoo Batch size: 500 grams Purpose Ingredient % Amount in Batch 1 Diluent Water 54.631 273.16 2 Colorant Color 0.001 0.01 3 Sequesterant Disodium EDTA 0.100 0.50 4 Primary Surfactant Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate (28%) 32.143 160.71 5 Secondary Surfactant Sodium Laureth Sulfate (25%) 4.000 20.00 6 Foam Stabilizer/Thickener Cocamidopropyl Betaine (35%) 7.143 35.71 7 Fragrance Fragrance 0.500 2.50 8 Preservative DMDM Hydantoin (55%) 0.182 0.91 9 pH Adjuster Citric Acid 0.300 1.50 10 Thickener Ammonium Chloride 1.000 5.00 TOTAL 100.000 500.00 Procedure Specifications 1. Begin mixing item #1 in container. Warm to 45C. pH=5.0-5.5 2. Add items #2 and 3. 3. Slowly add items #4 through 6. 4. Cool batch to 25C. 5. At 30C add items #7, 8 and 9. 6. At <30C add item #10. Mix for 10-15 minutes more. 7. Check pH and viscosity. Adjust as required.
- 45. Activity of Ingredients • Many raw materials are sold diluted • % Solids = Raw material – water • Eg. ALS sold as 28% solids • 32% of the supplied raw material is only ~9% solid ALS • % Active is usually synonymous with % Solids
- 46. Volumizing Shampoo Formula Formula Name: Volumizing Shampoo Batch size: 500 grams Purpose Ingredient % Amount in Batch 1 Diluent Water 42.210 211.05 2 Colorant Color 0.001 0.01 3 Sequesterant Disodium EDTA 0.100 0.50 4 Primary Surfactant Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate (28%) 42.857 214.29 5 Secondary Surfactant Sodium Laureth Sulfate (25%) 4.800 24.00 6 Foam Stabilizer/Thickener Cocamidopropyl Betaine (35%) 8.000 40.00 7 Fragrance Fragrance 0.550 2.75 8 Preservative DMDM Hydantoin (55%) 0.182 0.91 9 pH Adjuster Citric Acid 0.300 1.50 10 Thickener Ammonium Chloride 1.000 5.00 TOTAL 100.000 500.00 Procedure Specifications 1. Begin mixing item #1 in container. Warm to 45C. pH=5.0-5.5 2. Add items #2 and 3. Viscosity=4,000-7,000 cps 3. Slowly add items #4 through 6. 4. Cool batch to 25C. 5. At 30C add items #7, 8 and 9. 6. At <30C add item #10. Mix for 10-15 minutes more. 7. Check pH and viscosity. Adjust as required.
- 47. Volumizing Shampoo • Higher level of surfactant • Volumizing polymer (optional) – Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride
- 48. Moisturizing Shampoo Formula Formula Name: Moisturizing Shampoo Batch size: 500 grams Purpose INGREDIENT % Amount in Batch 1 Diluent Water 32.360 161.8 2 Colorant Color 0.001 0.01 3 Sequesterant Disodium EDTA 0.100 0.50 4 Conditioning Polymer Polyquaternium-7 0.200 1.00 5 Conditioning Polymer Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride 0.100 0.50 6 Primary Surfactant Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate (28%) 26.786 133.93 7 Secondary Surfactant Ammonium Laureth Sulfate (25%) 30.000 150.00 8 Foam Stabilizer/Thickener Cocamidopropyl Betaine (35%) 8.571 42.86 9 Conditioning Silicone Dimethicone Copolyol 0.200 1.00 10 Fragrance Fragrance 0.550 2.75 11 Preservative DMDM Hydantoin (55%) 0.182 0.91 12 pH Adjuster Citric Acid 0.200 1.00 13 Thickener Ammonium Chloride 0.750 3.75 TOTAL 100.000 500.00 Procedure 1. Begin mixing item #1 in container. Specifications: 2. Add items #2 & #3 pH=5.0-5.5 3. Slowly add items #4 & #5 Viscosity=4,000-7,000 cps 4. Warm batch to 45C. Add items #6-8 5. Mix for 10 min and begin cooling to 25C 6. At 30C, add items #9, #10, #11 and #12 7. At <30C, add item #13. Mix for 10-15 minutes more 8. Check pH and viscosity. Adjust as required
- 49. Moisturizing Shampoo • More gentle detergents • Added conditioning ingredients – Polyquaternium-7 – Dimethicone Copolyol • Pearlized – (optional) – Glycol Stearate
- 50. 2-in-1 Shampoo Formula Formula Name: 2-in-1 Shampoo Batch size: 500 grams Purpose Ingredient % Amount In Batch 1 Diluent Water 25.517 127.59 2 Colorant Color 0.001 0.01 3 Sequesterant Disodium EDTA 0.100 0.50 4 Conditioning Polymer Polyquaternium-10 0.200 1.00 5 Primary Surfactant Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate (28%) 28.571 142.86 6 Secondary Surfactant Ammonium Laureth Sulfate (25%) 30.000 150.00 7 Foam Stabilizer/Thickener Cocamidopropyl Betaine (35%) 11.429 57.14 8 Opacifying agent Glycol Distearate 1.500 7.50 9 Conditioning Silicone Dimethicone 1.000 5.00 10 Fragrance Fragrance 0.550 2.75 11 Preservative DMDM Hydantoin (55%) 0.182 0.91 12 pH Adjuster Citric Acid 0.200 1.00 13 Thickener Ammonium Chloride 0.750 3.75 TOTAL 100.000 500.00 Procedure Specifications 1. Begin mixing item #1 in container and heating to 70C. pH=5.0-5.5 2. While warming, add items #2 through 7. Viscosity=4,000-7,000 cps 3. At 70C, add items #8 and 9. Mix 20 minutes. Appearance Pearled 4. Begin cooling to 25 C. 5. At 30C, add items #10, 11 and 12. 6. At <30C, add item #13. Mix for 10-15 minutes more. 7. Check pH and viscosity. Adjust as required.
- 51. 2-in-1 Shampoo • Added conditioning ingredients – Dimethicone – Polyquaternium-10 • Pearlized – Glycol Stearate • Stabilizing agent (optional) – Carbomer
- 52. Baby Shampoo Formula Formula Name: Baby Shampoo Batch size: 500 grams Purpose Ingredient % Amount In Batch 1 Diluent Water 31.054 155.27 2 Colorant Color 0.001 0.01 3 Sequesterant Disodium EDTA 0.200 1.00 4 Primary Surfactant PEG- 80 Sorbitan Laurate (25%) 32.000 160.00 5 Secondary Surfactant Sodium Trideceth Sulfate (25%) 12.000 60.00 6 Secondary Surfactant Sodium Lauroamphoacetate (30%) 6.667 33.33 7 Foam/Thickener Cocamidopropyl Betaine (35%) 11.429 57.14 8 Thickener PEG- 120 Methyl Glycose Trioleate 5.500 27.50 9 Preservative DMDM Hydantoin (55%) 0.200 1.00 10 Fragrance Fragrance 0.250 1.25 11 pH Adjuster Citric Acid 0.700 3.50 TOTAL 100.000 500.00 Procedure 1. Begin mixing item #1 in container and heating to 70C. Specifications 2. While warming, add items #2 through 7. pH=5.8-6.2 3. At 70C, add items #8. Mix 20 minutes. Viscosity=3,500-5,500 cps 4. Begin cooling to 25 C. Appearance Clear 5. At 30C, add items #9, 10 and 11. 6. Check pH and viscosity. Adjust as required.
- 53. Baby Shampoo • More mild detergent system • Compromise qualities for mildness – Foam – Detergency – Conditioning • Minimize fragrance ©Fotolia
- 54. Natural Shampoo Formula Formula Name: Natural Shampoo Batch size: 500 grams Purpose Ingredient % Amount In Batch 1 Diluent Water 43.099 215.50 2 Colorant Color 0.001 0.01 3 Primary Surfactant Sodium Cocoamphoacetate (25%) 32.000 160.00 4 Secondary Surfactant Sodium Lauryl Glucose Carboxylate & Lauryl Glucoside (25%) 10.000 50.00 5 Secondary Surfactant Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate (25%) 6.400 32.00 6 Thickener Coco Glucoside & Glyceryl Oleate (70%) 5.000 25.00 7 pH Adjuster Citric Acid 1.500 7.50 8 Fragrance Fragrance 0.500 2.50 9 Preservative Phenoxyethanol (and) Benzoic Acid (and) Dehydroacetic Acid 1.000 5.00 10 Claims Ingredients Herbal Extracts 0.500 2.50 TOTAL 100.000 500.00 Procedure Specifications 1. Begin mixing item #1 in container and heating to 50C. pH=5.8-6.2 2. While warming, add items #2 through 6. Viscosity=3,500-5,500 cps 3. At 50C, mix 20 minutes. Appearance Clear 4. Begin cooling to 25 C. 5. At 30C, add items #7, 8, 9 and 10. 6. Check pH and viscosity. Adjust as required.
- 55. Natural Shampoo • Sulfate-free detergent • “Gentle” preservatives – No parabens – No DMDM hydantoin • Natural extract ingredients • Synthetic fragrance-free?
- 57. Equipment • Beakers • Mixers • Thermometer • Stand • Hot plate • Scale • Weigh boats • Plastic wrap ©Fotolia
- 59. Shampoo Batching Tips • Cover batch with plastic wrap • Record time, temp, changes • Pre-weigh ingredients • Weigh container prior to making batch – Compensate for water loss • Take specification readings at the end – Adjust as needed
- 60. Formulation Demonstration Formula Name: Clear Shampoo Batch size: 500 grams Courtesy of: Stepan Company Purpose Ingredient % Amount in Batch 1 Solvent Water 50.400 252.00 2 Humectant Glycerin 1.500 7.50 3 Primary Surfactant STEPANOL® WA-EXTRA-K 40.000 200.00 4 Secondary Surfactant AMPHOSOL® HCG 4.800 24.00 5 Feel Enhancer STEPAN-MILD® L3 1.500 7.50 6 Conditioning Agent dl-Panthenol crystalline (Roche), Panthenol 0.200 1.00 7 Additive Fragrance, Dye, Preservative 0.200 1.00 8 pH Modifier Citric Acid 0.200 1.00 9 Viscosity Modifier Sodium Chloride 1.200 6.00 TOTAL 100.000 500.00 Procedure Specifications Into a suitable container, add Deionized Water, Glycerin, pH=5.8-6.5 STEPANOL® WA-EXTRA, AMPHOSOL® HCG and STEPAN-MILD® L3. Start mixing. Viscosity=10,000-13,000 cps When solution is clear, add dl-Pahthenol. Mix well. Add Fragrance, Dye and Preservative. Mix well. Adjust viscosity with Sodium Chloride.
- 61. Shampoo Testing • QA/QC tests • Performance tests
- 62. Shampoo Testing • QA/QC tests • Specifications – Viscosity – pH – Appearance – Odor Photo Courtesy of Brookfield Engineering
- 63. Shampoo Testing • Use tests – Try product yourself – Panel testing ©Fotolia
- 64. Shampoo Testing • Tress testing – Combing – Feel/Softness – Shine
- 65. Shampoo Testing • Foam testing – Blender – Shake test
- 66. Shampoo Testing • Safety testing – Patch testing – Irritation tests
- 68. Shampoo Summary • Shampoo market overview – Big compared to other cosmetics • Consumer problems – Cleansing, conditioning primary problems • Surfactant science – Makes oil and water more compatible – Responsible for cleaning hair • Formulating shampoos – Six types of shampoos • Testing – Use tests, lab tests and QC tests