Vanishing creams – which can also be called stearate creams – were known for their smooth, dry feel on the skin and their pearly sheen. Chemically they are oil-in-water emulsions consisting of stearic acid, an alkali, a polyol and water.

1. Cosmetics Chemistry
Skin Care Products
Subject Expert: Dr. Tanuja Nautiyal
SOS Organics

2. Chemistry of
Skin Care Products

3. Vanishing Cream

4.  Vanishing cream differs from cold cream in having smaller
quantity of oily phase; hence it is easy to rub on skin and
leaves non-greasy film on skin with glow. This combined with
evaporation of water, gives cooling effect.
 The first commercial vanishing cream, was introduced in
1892.
Vanishing Cream

5.  Vanishing creams can also be called stearate creams.
 Vanishing cream is an oil-in-water emulsion consisting of a
stearic acid, an alkali, a polyol and water.
 The alkali forms a soap with some of the stearic acid thereby
producing an emulsion.
Ingredients of Vanishing cream

6.  The polyol (e.g. glycerin) makes the cream more spreadable
and acts as a humectant to help prevent it from drying out and
cracking during storage in its container.
 The product was noted for its smooth, dry feel on the skin and
its pearly sheen.
Ingredients of Vanishing cream

7. Propyl parabene
Stearic acid
Lanolin
Propylene glycol
Ingredients of Vanishing Cream
Oil soluble ingredients

8. Ingredients of Vanishing Cream
water soluble ingredients
Triethanolamine (TEA) Methyl parabene

9. Stearic acid 22.5%
Triethanolamine 1.5%
Potassium hydroxide 1%
Glycerin 6%
Water 69%
Formulation of Vanishing cream

10. Procedure for Making Vanishing Cream
The oils, waxes, emulsifiers (stearic acid, lanolin, propylene
glycol, propyl parabene) and other oil-soluble components are
heated to 750C in a steam-jacketed kettle.
Step: I Preparation of Oil phase

11. Procedure for Making Vanishing Cream
The water is soluble components (Alkalis, alkanolamines,
triethanolamine (TEA), polyhydric alcohols, and
preservatives) are dissolved in the aqueous phase and
heated to 750C in another steam-jacketed kettle.
Step: II Preparation of aqueous phase

12. Procedure for Making Vanishing Cream
When both phases are at 750C, oily phase is transferred to
aqueous phase in small portions with continuous stirring in
manner that a homogenous emulsion is formed.
To allow for evaporation of water during the heating and
emulsification, about 3- 5% excess water (based on formula
weight) is added.
Now, once the transfer is complete it is allowed to come at
room temperature all the while being stirred.
Preparation of Oil in water type emulsionStep: III

13. Procedure for Making Vanishing Cream
Perfume is added just before the finished product is transferred
to suitable container for the consumers.
Addition of AdditivesStep: IV

14. Shaving Cream

15.  Shaving cream is a substance applied to the skin to
facilitate removal of hair.
 Shaving cream provides lubrication which helps prevent
razor burn and discomfort during shaving. It comes in a
wide variety of formats including creams, gels and most
commonly foams.
Shaving cream

16.  Stearic acid is the main ingredients in soap making.
Raw Materials for Shaving cream
Stearic acid
Triethanolamine (TEA)
 Triethanolamine is a surfactant, one end of a
surfactant molecule attracts dirt and grease, the other end
attracts water.

17.  Lanolin and polyoxyethylene sorbitan monostearate are both
emulsifiers which hold water to the skin
Raw Materials for Shaving cream
 Glycerin, a solvent and an emollient, renders skin softer
and more supple.
Lanolin
Glycerine

18. Formulation of shaving cream
Water: 65-75%
Stearic acid: 15-20%
Acid: 50kg
Polyoxyethylene Sorbitan Monostearate: 6%
Lanolin: 5%
Triethanolamine: 3%
Glycerine: 2%
Alkali(KOH): as preservative and perfume
Ingredients Quantity

19. Procedure for Making Shaving Cream
Step: I Preparation of Oil phase
The oils, waxes, emulsifiers and other oil-soluble components
(Stearic acid: 20.6%, Diglycol stearate: 2.5%, Mineral oil: 4%,
Lanolin: 1%, Castor oil: 1%), are heated 750C in a steam-
jacketed kettle.

20. Stearic
acid
Lanolin
Polyoxyethylene
Sorbitan Monostearate
steam-jacketed
kettle
Step: I Preparation of Oil phase
The oils, waxes, emulsifiers and other oil-soluble components
(Stearic acid: 20.6%, Diglycol stearate: 2.5%, Mineral oil: 4%,
Lanolin: 1%, Castor oil: 1%), are heated 750C in a steam-jacketed
kettle.

21. Procedure for Making Shaving Cream
Step: II Preparation of aqueous phase
The water is soluble components; alkalis, alkalomines,
polyhydric alcohols and preservatives, are heated to 750C.
Prepare a 2% mucilage of sodium alginate, then add in
Triethanolamine:1.3%, Propylene glycol: 4%, Borax: 0.9%,
Water: 14% )

22. Procedure for Making Shaving Cream
Add both Oil phase to Aqueous phase slowly with good
agitation and continue stirring down to 450C. The slow addition
and emulsification of the water increase the viscosity of the
system.
Preparation of Oil in water type emulsionStep: III

23. Procedure for Making shaving Cream
Addition of AdditivesStep: IV
Stir the menthol and camphor, dissolved in the perfume oil,
The cream can be poured at 450C. If a softer consistency is
desired, continue slow stirring (avoiding incorporation of air)
until cream is cooled below 350C, remix briefly next day and
package at room temperature.

24. Stearic acid or myristic acid, Triethanolamine (an emulsifier),
Supper fattening agents (mineral oil, cetyl alcohol), Mucins
(natural or synthetic), Humectants (glycerol or sorbitols),
Polyoxyethylene glycols.
These ingredients are mixed and homogenised and then
required perfume added.
Preparation of brushless shaving creams

25. Aftershave creams relieve tenderness , dryness , roughness of
skin after shaving.
Formulation of aftershave creams:
Ethyl alcohol 50%
Sorbitol 70%
Soln. 2.5%
Perfume oil 0.5%
Menthol 0.1%
Boric acid 2.0%
Water 44.9%
Aftershave cream

26. Cosmetics Chemistry
Skin Care Products
Subject Expert: Dr. Tanuja Nautiyal
SOS Organics