This document discusses cleansing and care needs for different body areas including the face, neck, and underarms. It provides information on the appropriate cleansing methods and products for different skin types. For the face, it recommends using cleansers suited to one's skin type, such as creamy cleansers for dry skin and active cleansers for oily skin. It also provides examples of formulations for various facial care products including cleansers, lotions, and freshners. For underarms, it states regular cleansing is needed due to increased sweating in this area.

1. CLEANSING AND CARE NEEDS
BY SAYEDA SALMA
1ST M PHARM

2. INDEX
• INTRODUCTION
• AIM
• CLEANSING AND CARE NEED FOR FACE
• CLEANSING AND CARE NEED FOR NECK
• CLEANSING AND CARE NEEDS FOR UNDERARMS
• REFERENCES

3. INTRODUCTION
• Everyone’s skin has different cleansing needs. Whether you
have dry, oily, sensitive or normal skin, you will need to
match your cleanser to your skin type for optimal results.
• It is important to clean your face regularly, Your facial skin
also needs to be taken care of.
• Cosmetics products help to maintain the ideal cleanness of
your facial skin. It is essential to ensure that your skin is
breathing through the pores "deeply", staying young,
beautiful and healthy.

4. AIM
• Study cleansing and care needs for face
 Shaving cream
 Pre-shave and After shave cream or lotion
 Face Freshner
 Lotions for face
• Study cleansing and care needs for neck
• Study Cleansing and care needs for underarms

5. CLEANSING AND CARE NEEDS FOR FACE
 Cleanser’s are facial care product that is used to remove make-up, dead skin cells, oil,
dirt, and other types of pollutants from the skin of the face.
 This helps to unclog pores and prevent skin conditions such as acne.
 Different types of cleansers have been developed for people with different skin types.
 active cleansers are more suitable for oily skins to prevent breakouts.
 Very dry skin may require a creamy lotion-type cleanser.
 dry skin requires much less cleansing power.
 It may be a good idea to select a cleanser that is alcohol-free for use on dry, sensitive,
or dehydrated skin.

6. REQUIRED QUALITIES AND CHARACTERISTICS
a quality skin cleansing product should possess the following characteristics:
◾ Neutral or pleasant odor and color
◾ Easy to rub on with appropriate foaming property
◾ Easy to spread
◾ Pleasant feeling during application
◾ Non-oily/non-greasy feeling
◾ Leaves no residue
◾ Moisturizes the skin while cleaning
◾ Non-comedogenic
◾ Well tolerated and non-allergenic
◾ Hand sanitizers: do not dry the skin, but kill bacteria and viruses.

7. The technical qualities of skin cleansing products can be
summarized as follows:
◾ Long-term stability
◾ Smooth texture
◾ No microbiological contamination and growth
◾ Appropriate rheological properties
◾ Appropriate foaming activity
◾ Appropriate performance
◾ Appropriate pH
◾ Dermatological safety.

8. CLASSIFICATION
1) Classification Based on Chemical Nature and Mildness ,
 Soaps are salts of fatty acids. If the alkali used contains
sodium, potassium, or ammonium ions, water-soluble soaps
are formed, whereas zinc and magnesium make insoluble so-
called metallic soaps. Skin cleansing products contain water-
soluble soaps.
 Synthetic surfactants, which are often referred to as
“soapless” soaps or syndets, are also amphiphilic compounds.
The most frequently used surfactant sare anionic in nature.

9.  Solvents, as reviewed earlier, can be classified broadly as
polar, semipolar, and non-polar type. ,such as those
containing mineral oil, may be potentially advantageous for
dry skin consumers since they can deposit a thin oil layer on
the skin surface.
Classification Based on Cleaning Principle,
 Chemical cleaning can be achieved through emulsifying and
dissolving the dirt on the face. The skin feel and application
profile are different for these products.

10. • Physical cleaning is an alternative to chemical cleaning; the
working principle is abrasion(friction) , which is generated
primarily by the direct interaction of a washcloth, tissue,
cotton ball, cleansing cloth, or abrasive particles and the
surface of the skin.
Classification Based on Foamability
• Foaming cleansers contain a significant amount of well-
foaming surfactants. These products are the most popular
today and often provide the most refreshing sensation
afterward.

11. • Low-foaming products contain a lower level of well-foaming
surfactants compared to foaming products and are milder to the
skin. Product forms available as low-foaming products include
lotions, gels, scrubs, and creams.
• Non-foaming cleansers include surfactant solutions, creams,
lotions, bath oils, bath salts, and toners. Cleansers in this category
tend to be the mildest due to their low well-foaming surfactant or
soap content. Non-foaming cleansers can besolvent-
based,suchasfacialtonersandhandsanitizers,andemulsion-based,
such as most facial cleansers, body washes, and hand soaps (which
solubilize dirt).

12. Classification Based on Product Types
 Skin cleansing products classified based on their form include solid
cleansing aids, such as soap bars, bath salts, bath beads, and cleansing
wipes.
 liquid products, such as surfactant solutions, low-viscosity emulsions,
toners, two-phase cleanser.
 as well as semisolid products, such as creams, pastes as facial masks,
scrubs, and gels. It is important to understand that a cream may be
foaming , low-foaming, or non-foaming, depending on the ingredients it is
made of.

13. Typical Ingredients and Formulation of Skin
Cleansing Products
1) surfactants act as cleansing agents and emulsifiers.
• There are four main groups of surfactants with different characteristics.
• Usually, they are used in combination with each other to build appropriate
properties into the formulations.
• Types,
i. Anionic surfactant
ii. Cationic surfactant
iii. Non-ionic surfactant
iv. Amphoteric surfactant

14. 2) Solvents act as cleansing agents as well as provide a vehicle for various formulations.
• General examples include water (the most commonly used vehicle in emulsions),
ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, or mineral oil as a non-polar solvent for cleaning purposes.
3) Thickeners are structuring agents , primarily used for gels , lotions , and creams.
• They provide appropriate rheological properties for the systems as well as contribute to
their stability.
• Examples include hydrophilic ingredients, such as cellulose derivatives, gums, acrylates,
and other types of polymers, as well as waxes for the oil phase.
4) Skin conditioning agents (otherwise known as moisturizers) counteract the SC-disruptive
properties of soaps and surfactants.
• • Examples include glycerin, olive oil, almond oil, mineral oil, silicone oils, waxes,
panthenol, and allantoin.

15. 5) pH buffers may be used for various reasons in facial cleansing products.
• Alkaline solutions are used for saponification.
• Examples include potassium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, and ammonium hydroxide.
• Additional ingredients that may alter the formulation’s pH include citricacid and lactic
acid.
6) Abrasives Facial scrubs contain specific exfoliating components that are responsible for
physical cleaning.
 Examples include natural components, seeds of many fruits (such as peach, apple,
apricot), nut shells (such as almond, walnut), and grains (such as oats, wheat).
 Synthetic scrub particles include polyethylene or polypropylene beads. In addition,
aluminum oxide particles and sodium tetraborate decahydrate can also be used.

16. • Colorants may contribute to the marketing appeal of the product. Both
natural and synthetic colorants can be used as facial cleansers. In certain
products, titanium dioxide or glycol stearate is used as an opacifier.
• Fragrances are often added to facial cleansing preparations to mask the
odor of the raw ingredients. It should be kept in mind , however , that they
may be highly irritative, especially for users with sensitive skin.
• Preservatives provide protection against microbiological contamination.
Most systems contain preservatives, including parabens, phenoxyethanol,
and benzoates.

17. • Antibacterial agents are widely used in today’s formulations. They may be
beneficial for controlling certain skin conditions, such as acne (it is discussed
in detail in Section 4 of this chapter), superficial skin infections, such as
folliculitis , and control infections after exposure to dirt or other potential
sources of contamination.
• Absorbents are mainly used in facial masks to absorb sebum from the skin.
These are water insoluble, mainly inorganic compounds. Examples include
zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, kaolin, calamine, clay, and natural mud.
• Astringents are the major ingredients in facial toners. They tighten pores
and refresh the skin. Most of them are generally considered active
ingredients. Examples include alcohol and witch hazel.

18. SHAVING SOAPS AND CREAM
• Shaving soaps were first made in USA about 125 years ago.
• It was an improvised home made potash soap which was prepared by saponification
of kitchen fats with crude potash made from wood ash and quick lime.
• Caustic soda was found to be a necessity to obtain a solid cake soap.
• Theoretically, solid shaving soaps and lather creams are some what similar products.
• They differ only in physical appearance and forms.
• The brushless shaving cream however differs considerably from the above two solid
preparations.

19. • A shaving cream should comply with certain specifications in order to make
shaving a comfort:-
 The shaving cream must be non irritating to the face and must retain its moisture
as long as it is on the face.
 It must soften the beard sufficiently so that the razor cuts readily.
 The shaving preparations must provide lubricity so that the razor glides smoothly
on the face and should be of sufficient viscosity to hold each hair erect.
 Further, the product should remain stable over a wide temperature.

20. • It should be non-corrosive and non-rusting and should be able to be
washed down the drain without clogging.
• If it is a brush shaving cream, it should be able to develop a high lather
very rapidly

21. FORMULATION OF SHAVING CREAM
1) CHOICE OF ELECTROLYTES
• The choice of electrolytes like chlorides is tricky one because of
their corrosive effect on the metal tube.
• However, they can be countered by the corrosion inhibitors.
• Extensive shelf life test are needed over a wide range of
temperature while selecting the electrolyte and metal packaging.

22. 2) stearic acid
• There are 3 grades of materials commonly used
* Sigle pressed
* Double pressed
* Triple pressed
• Normally, a double pressed stearic acid is preferred in order to obtain a white
lather cream.
• The soap should not be brown or yellow.
• The odour of stearic acid is another important aspect, as a poor grade stearic
acid easily develops rancidity and could spoil the entire batch.

23. 3) Coconut oil
 A fraction of acids derived from coconut oil is necessary in a shaving cream, the
sodium or potassium soaps made from coconut oils are very soluble in water and
lather very freely.
 The lather is large bubbled, thin and breaks down easily.
 Use of specially de-odorized oil is recommended in order to avoid odour

24. 4) oleates
• Oleates are generally present in lather creams and shaving soaps.
• Coconut oil will itself provide sufficient oleates for most formulations
5) fatty acids
• Fatty acids which are relatively more unsaturated than oleic acid should
not be present in significant amounts because their soaps tend to become
rancid.
• Mostly superfatting agents have been used to improve lather of shaving
cream because of their two fold purpose.

25. * to neutralize excess alkali
* to stabilize the foam by retaining the moisture
6) Humectants
 It improves the lather and has an emollient feel on the face.
 Glycerol has a very desirable property of making a cream soft and maintaining
it as well allowing for easy extrusion from a tube.
7) menthol
 Menthol is used to give a cooling effect
 But it has not received a universal acceptance

26. TYPES OF SHAVING CREAM
• Brushless shaving cream
• Solid shaving preparations
• Lather shaving cream
• Brushless shaving cream
• Pre shave preparation
• After shave preparation

27. 1) brushless shaving cream
• The primary objective of a brushless shaving cream is to keep the
whiskers in a moist condition during the shaving and provide
lubrication.
• These creams need to contain wetting agents rather than lathering
agents.
• Most of the beard softening effect is actually obtained by pre-shave
treatment with soap and water

28. 2) solid shaving preparation
• A bar shaving soap involves incorporation of KOH of highest purity
relatively free from iron and sulphates and low in Kcl.
• Perfume is incorporated during milling process.
• In order to increase whiteness titanium di oxide is added.

29. 3) lather shaving cream
• Essentially a lather cream may be considered similar to a shaving bar soap
except for the consistency.
• It is described as a solution of soap in glycerol and water, in which excess
soap may be dispersed.
• The most desirable shaving cream is one which does not change its viscosity
even in wide range of temperature.
• It is particularly for this reason the salts and other ingredients have to be very
carefully selected.

30. 4)pre shave preparation
• The main purpose of preshave preparations is to prepare the beard and
the skin of the face more effectively than the shaving preparations alone.
5) after shave preparation
• The general function of an after shave preparation is to relieve discomfort
and irritation caused by shaving.
• Its purpose is to cool and soothe the skin , impart a feeling of freshness
and well being.
• The alcoholic lotion is the popularly used after shave preparation

31. EXAMPLE (brushless shaving cream)
INGREDIENTS QUANTITY USED
STEARIC ACID 10-20%
PRESERVATIVE 0.2%
MINERAL OIL/ PETROLATUM 3-13%
BASE 0.5-2%
LANOLIN 0-5%
GUMS OR THICKENERS 0-0.5%
WATER 60-75%

32. EXAMPLE ( AFTER SHAVE CREAM)
INGREDIENTS QUANTITY USED
BAY OIL 0.20%
PIMENTA OIL 0.05%
ETHYL ALCOHOL 50.00%
JAMAICA RUM 10.00%
WATER 39.75%
CARAMEL Q.S

33. FRESHNER
• Our skin is made from many tissues and cells.
• Our skin has important role in protecting our organs from radiation as well as giving us
new look and feels.
• But because of aging sun damaged and peels, skin start to lose its freshness and
elasticity time to time.
• This impact on skin gives human dull impression.
• This could be overcome with use of certain freshening products like –
* aromatic water is excellent refreshment for the skin on hot summer days.
* refreshing facial wipes
* face washes

34. EXAMPLE
INGREDIENTS QUANTITY USED
AROMATIC SPIRIT OF AMMONIA 2.0%
ALCOHOL 4.0%
LAVENDER OIL 0.25%
DISTILLED WATER 93.75%

35. LOTIONS
• In cosmetic science language , a lotion is a liquid preparation
applied externally on the skin to produce or enhance beautification.
• The main function of lotion are soothing and emolliency, extended
to astringency , skin freshening, bleaching and other medical
properties.
• Some of these are:-
* skin toning lotion
* astringent lotion

36. SKIN TONING LOTION
• These are limpid liquids with weak astringent, in-vivo rating,
stimulating at time antiseptic properties.
• They are generally meant for freshening the skin and to
remove any residual creams.

37. EXAMPLE
INGREDIENTS QUANTITY USED
BORIC ACID 2.0%
ALUM 1.0%
CAMPHOR 0.02%
MENTHOL 0.14%
FORMALDEHYDE 0.1%
ETHYLENE GLYCOL 4.0%
WATER 82.49%
ALCOHOL 10.0%
PERFUME 0.25%

38. ASTRINGENT LOTION
• These are intended to correct excessive oiliness and also
to make coarse pores less noticeable.
• Oiliness is caused by either fatty diet or individual
metabolic changes of fat.
• Treatment with astringent lotion in the morning is helpful
in removing the oiliness , preferably in addition to a
treatment with astringent cream at night.

39. EXAMPLE (astringent lotion)
INGREDIENTS QUANTITY USED
ALUM 0.75%
ZINC SULFATE 0.1%
GLYCERINE 10.0%
ALCOHOL 10.0%
WATER 78.65%
PERFUME 0.5%

40. CLEANSING AND CARE NEEDS FOR UNDERARMS
• The armpit has a high concentration of hair follicles and sweat
glands, thus causing increased sweating in this area of the body.
• It is also packed with lymph nodes, an integral part of the lymphatic
system that aids your body in fighting infection.
• Regular care can leave you with silky smooth skin and a body
primed against everyday infections and bacteria.
• Keeping this area dry plays a vital role here.

41. • Needless to say, hairy underarms not only look unappealing (on both men and women),
but also attract and collect loads of dirt.
• Hair follicles in your armpits make the skin prone to the build-up of dead skin cells.
• Your skin needs to breathe.
• Like all other areas of the body, your underarms need a proper skincare regimen.
• Underarm skin is said to be highly sensitive, more so than even your face. Exfoliating
and cleansing go hand in hand.
• Use of gentle exfoliator Scrub can remove dead skin and dirt from these areas.

42. ANTI-PERSPIRANTS AND DEODRANTS
• These products remove or decrease the malodour of perspiration , prevent its
development, or do both.
• A survey shows that lately these products are becoming increasingly popular and
have flooded the market.
• The odour of perspiration varies from person to person , the cause may be several.
• To combat this unpleasant odour it is a imperative to develop some products to
counteract the smell, or reduce the flow of excess perspiration.

43. TYPES OF ANTI-PERSPIRANTS
1) LIQUID ANTI-PERSPIRANT
• Liquid anti-perspirants mostly contain an aqueous or hydro-alcoholic solution of an
astringent salt, a small amount of humectant, a perfume, a dispersing agent for the
perfume and a deodorant.
• They are generally applied in the form of spray
2) ANTI-PERSPIRANT CREAM
• The most widely accepted anti-perspirants by consumers are of the vanishing
cream type.
• Since the product must contain 15-20% astringent salt, the usual type of a cream
made with a soap emulsifier will not be effective.
• Satisfactory creams can be made with acids stabilizers ,glyceryl mono-stearate with
or without additional emulsifier.

44. 3) ANTI-PERSPIRANT LOTIONS
• Anti-perspirant lotion do not have a market as big as anti-perspirant creams.
• The emulsion type lotion basically has the same manufacturing procedure as that
used for a cream.
4) ANTI-PERSPIRANT STICKS
• Anti-perspirants have also been developed in the form of sticks.
• There is a waxy type using zinc sulphonate and oleate in a waxy base.
• It is not strongly astringent.
5) ANTI-PERSPIRANT POWDERS
• Of all the anti-perspirant products , anti-perspirant powders are the least effective.
• This is probably because the quantity of powder adhering to the skin is not
sufficient enough to stop the flow of perspiration.

45. EXAMPLE (anti-perspirant spray)
INGREDIENTS QUANTITY USED
PART A
ALCOHOL 50%
PROPYLENE GLYCOL 5.0%
HEXACHLOROPHENE 0.1%
PERFUME Q.S
PART B
ALUMINIUM CHLOROHYDROXIDE 15.0%
WATER 29.9%

46. TYPES OF DEODRANTS
1) DEODRANT POWDERS
• Deodorant powders to be effective have to be mixed and ground well, so that the
ingredients are well dispersed.
• The active ingredient may be dissolved in a suitable solvent and distributed through
the powder mix.
• The perfume should be well blended with the talc and then incorporated in to the
batch.
2) LIQUID DEODRANT
• Several quaternary ammonium compounds have been tested and found relatively
non-toxic and sufficiently non-irritating for used in cosmetic preparations.
• Hence, the anti-bacterial and deodorant spray can be prepared , without toxic anti-
perspirant properties by dissolving 0.5-2% of quaternary in water or 5% denatured
alcohol of cosmetic grade

47. 3) DEO-CREAMS
• For any chlorinated phenol deodorants used in a cream , it is
imported to select and emulsifier , which is compatible.
• Many non-ionic emulsifiers suppress the bacteriostatic activity
of this products.
• Potassium stearate-stearic acid vanishing cream serves as a good
base for this product.

48. EXAMPLE(deodorant powder)
INGREDIENTS QUANTITY USED
TALC 70%
LIGHT PRECIPITATED CHALK 10%
BORIC ACID 10%
ZINC OXIDE 9%
ZINC PHENOLSULFONATE 1%
PERFUME Q,S

49. DEPILATORIES
• The term depilation if defined as removal of human hair fiber,
through chemical degradation with inorganic sulphides and
organic thiols.
• Hair removal, also known as epilation or depilation, is the
deliberate removal of body hair.
• The original classic depilatory contains natural arsenic trisulfide,
quick lime and starch , and was made in to a paste with water.

50. GENERAL FORMULA FOE EPILATOR
INGREDIENTS QUANTITY USED
ROSIN 69%
BEES WAX 20%
BURGUNDY PITCH 4%
GUM CAMPHOR 3%
OIL OF BERGAMOT 2%
OIL OF EUCALYPTUS 1%
OIL OF SKUNK 1%

51. CHEMICAL DEPILATORIES
• The removal of superfluous,
undesirable hair was
revolutionized by developing
chemical agents either in cream
or in paste formulary and they
became popular in the evolution
of varieties of formulations.

52. IDEAL CHEMICAL DEPILATORY FORMULATION
• It should transform human hair in to a soft solid mass, easily removed
by wiping and rinsing.
• Should be non-toxic systemically and non-irritating to the skin even in
the long run.
• Should be easily applicable, economical to use, and stable in the tube
or jar.
• Should be cosmetically elegant , odourless, or pleasantly perfumed,
white or natural in colour, non-injurious to the skin, stainless on cloth.

53. EXAMPLE (powder depilatory)
INGREDIENTS QUANTITY USED
BARIUM SULFIDE 31%
TITANIUM DI OXIDE 18%
CORN STARCH 50.5%
MENTHOL 0.25%
PERFUME 0.25%

54. CLEANSING AND CARE NEEDS FOR NECK
• If you are used to see your face in a small hand held mirror, you should
now switch to looking yourself in a tall mirror or at least move the small
mirror down your face too! You’ll see how dark is your neck when
compared to your face.
• This is because, we give our whole attention to the skin of our face and
forget the one just below it and the result- a dark neck.
• It is very essential to cleanse and exfoliate neck skin every day just as we
do with our faces.
• When we neglect neck while pampering face, this results in patchy dark
skin.

55. For dark neck:-
Skin lightening by use of covering agents
• Skin can be lightened by application of lightening or opacifying
agents.
• Opacification and whitening can be achieved by use of titanium
dioxide.
Bleaching agents
• skin bleaching refer to the practice of using chemical substances in
an attempt to lighten skin tone or provide an even skin complexion
by reducing the melanin concentration in the skin.

56. EXAMPLE (skin lightening by covering agents)
INGREDIENTS QUANTITY USED
PART A
Triethanolamine (cosmetic grade) 0.5%
Propylene glycol 5.0%
Purified water 62.5%
Titanium di oxide 6%
Cab-o-sil M-5 and colorants as desired 3% and q.s respectively

57. PART B
Glyceryl monostearate, acid stabilized 4.0%
Lanolin alcohol 4.0%
Stearic acid, T.p 2.0%
Sorbic acid 0.2%
Oleyl alcohol (novol) 3.0%
perfume 0.3%

58. BLEACHING AGENTS ( hydrogen peroxide emulsion)
• Emulsion-form hydrogen peroxide compositions in the form of an
oil-in-water emulsion containing oil or fatty components,
emulsifiers and hydrogen peroxide and, in addition, a thickening
agent comprising a carboxyl-group containing polymer or
copolymer soluble in aqueous alkali in a quantity of from about 1 to
about 5% by weighed solids, based on the weight of the
composition.
• These compositions are particularly suitable as an oxidizing
component in processes for the dyeing or lightening of hair
resulting in improved depth of color and brightness.

59. REFERENCES
• TEXTBOOKS OF COSMETICS –BY VIMALADEVI
• WIKIPEDIA
• http://www.ceanocosmetics.com/en/products/face/
• https://www.prlog.org/10429018-disease-and-
conditions-skin-refreshment-ovierview.html
• https://www.liveabout.com/basic-skin-care-needs-
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