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This document provides information on various types of cosmetics, including their definitions, formulations, and preparation methods. It begins by defining cosmetics as articles intended to be applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying, or altering appearance. It then discusses formulation approaches for various skin creams, dentifrices, shaving preparations, lipsticks, nail lacquers, shampoos, face powders, and more. Example formulations are provided for cleansing creams, emollient creams, toothpastes, pre-electric shave gel, lipsticks, and others. The document concludes by describing preparation methods for some cosmetic types like cleansing creams, emoll

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Cosmetics Presentation by: DSR Amuktha Pharmaceutical Production Technology M. Pharmacy (PRA) Geethanjali College of Pharmacy 1
Definition: • The term "cosmetic" means • (1) articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced into, or otherwise applied to the human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance, and • (2) articles intended for use as a component of any such articles; except that such term shall not include soap. 2
Formulation Approaches: Skin Creams:  Cleansing Creams – Allantoins, SLS, Propylene Glycol, Triethanolamine, Glycerine.  Cleansing Lotions – Ex: Triethanolamine Stearate  Emollient Creams – Ex: Use of Glyceryl Monostearate  Emollient Lotions – Ex: Use of Cetyl Alcohol  Vanishing Creams – Ex: Stearic Acid  All- Purpose Creams – Ex: Use of Stearic Acid, Lanolin's and Humectants 3 Dentifrices  Toothpastes – -Abrasives – Ex: Calcium Phosphates -Detergents – Ex: Sodium Lauryl Sulphate -Humectants – Ex: Glycerine, Sorbitol etc -Binding Agents – Ex: Tragacanth Gum -Flavours – Ex: Clove -Sweetening Agents – Ex: Saccharin -Preservatives – Ex: Formalin Sodium Benzoate, Para Hydroxy Benzoate -Colouring Agents – Ex: Fluorides  Mouthwashes – Use of Thymol, Alcohol, Borax, Glycerine, Flavour and Water
Shaving Preparations –  Wet Shaving Preparations : Beard Softening Creams, Lather Shaving Creams, Aerosol Shaving Foams, Brushless/ Non-Lathering Creams, Brushless Shaving Sticks.  Dry Shaving Preparations: This includes Pre-electric shave lotions, Collapsible foam pre-electric shave lotions, Pre-electric shave gel sticks, Pre-electric shave talc sticks, Pre-electric shave powders. Formulation: Bases – Ex: Triethanolamine Surfactants – Ex: Anionic and Non Ionic Surfactants (SLS) Humectants – Ex: Glycerol, Sorbitol Lubricants – Ex: Mineral Oils, Lanolin Propellants – Ex: Fluorocarbon/Hydrocarbon Propellants Perfumes – Cooling Agents – Ex: Methanol Corrosion Inhibitors – Ex: Borax Bacteriostats – Ex: Trichlorohydroxydiphenyl Ether & Allantoin Pilomotor Agents – Ex: Imidazolines, Morpholines
Lipsticks: Formulation: Colouring Agents: -Staining dyes (Water-soluble): Bromo acids - Eaolin -Pigments (Insoluble Form): Lakes – Calcium, Barium, Aluminium. Bases: -Oils: Castor Oils, Mineral Oils -Fatty Alcohols: Lauryl, Stearyl, Cetyl Alcohols. -Esters: Butyl Stearate, Propylene Glycol Monoesters -Emollient: Lanolin, Lecithin -Waxes: Carnuba, Candelilla -Perfumes: Floral, Fruity -Antioxidants: Butylated Hydroxy Anisole or Toluene
Nail Lacquer: Formulation: Film Formers – Niro Cellulose, Cellulose Acetate Resins – Aryl Sulphonamide Formaldehyde, Santolite MS/MHP. Plasticisers – Solvent (Nitrocellulose), Non solvent (Phthalates, Phosphates) Solvents – Acetone, N-Butyl Acetate, Cellosolve Diluents – Alcohols, Aromatic Hydrocarbons Colours – Insoluble lakes (D&C, FD&C), Titanium dioxide, Iron oxides Pearlescent Pigments – Bismuth Oxychlorides, Mica Coated Titanium Dioxide Suspension Agents – Bentone 27, Bentonite 34.
Shampoos:  Clear liquid Shampoos, Liquid Cream Shampoos, Cream/Gel Shampoos, Solid Cream and gel shampoos, Powder Shampoos, Dry Shampoos. Formulation: • Detergents – Surfactants (Anionic, Non-Ionic, Cationic) • Opacifying agents – Alkanol amides like Stearic acid • Clarifying agents – Ethanol, Propylene glycol • Sequestering agents – EDTA • Conditioning agents – Polymers, Lanolin • Thickening agents – Alginates, CMC • Foam boosters – Guar Gum, Xanthum Gum, Sarcosinates • Activators :  Preservatives – DMDM Hydantoin, Methyl Paraben  Special additives – Botanical Extracts, FD&C Dyes
Face Powders  Light powder, Opaque Powder, Medium Powder, Compact Powder. Formulation: • Absorbents – Rice Starch, Calcium Carbonate ppt, Mg. Carbonate • Covering Agents – Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide • Slip Imparting Agents – Talc (Hydrated Mg. Silicate), Zinc Stearate • Adhesion Agents – Cetyl/Stearate Alcohol, Glyceryl Mono Stearate • Blooming Agents – Rice Starch, Calcium Carbonate ppt • Colouring Agents – Pigments and lakes • Perfumes – Flowery/Fruity.
9 Preparation Of Cosmetics Cleansing Creams: A cold cream based on a beeswax-borax combination has the following formula. Formula: Beeswax-16% Mineral oil-50% Borax-0.8% Water-33% Perfume-qs Preservatives-qs When borax is mixed with molten beeswax, it undergoes hydrolysis and the subsequent reaction of sodium hydroxide with the free acids present in the beeswax form the corresponding soaps (sodium salts of the wax acids). These soaps emulsify the mineral oil in the water. Other components of beeswax such as myricy alcohol stabilize the emulsion. The beeswax-borax emulsion represents the most important formulation among cleansing creams. Typically, they are white, lustrous creams of o/w-type emulsion. When the cream is rubbed on the skin, sufficient water evaporates to permit the phase inversion to w/o-type with oil as the external phase; solvent action of the oil then facilitates cleansing of the skin Skin Creams:
Formula: Stearic acid-5.33% Triethanolamine-2.66% Mineral oil-35% Beeswax-2% Water-55% Perfume-0.5-1% Triethanolamine stearate, formed by the reaction of stearic acid and triethanolamine, is an effective emulsifier. Beeswax is used to thicken and stabilise the emulsion. Cleansing Lotions: Creams that spread with ease and vanish or disappear on rubbing on the skin are called vanishing creams. Formula Stearic acid-17% Potassium hydroxide_ 0.7% Glycerin-_5% Water-gs to 100% Perfume and preservatives –qs In the above formula, potassium hydroxide reacts with stearic acid to form potassium stearate, which acts as an emulsifying agent. Cleansing lotions perform the same functions as cleansing creams but can be spread easily and more uniformly. Vanishing Creams
Emollient creams are effective in softening and imparting emollience to the dry, scaly stratum corneum. An emollient cream with a non-ionic, o/w-type emulsion has the following formula. Formula: Glyceryl mono stearate-4.5% Lanolin-1.0% Isopropyl myristate-4.3% PEG 1000 monostearate-6.0% Stearic acid-7.2% Propyl paraben-0.15% Methyl paraben-0.15% Propylene glycol-2.5% Water-74.0% Perfume-qs The lipids and oil-soluble ingredients are heated to 75° in a steam-jacketed kettle. The water-soluble components are dissolved in the aqueous phase and heated to 75°The internal phase is very slowly added to the external phase, stirring continuously. Perfume is added to the emulsion at 45°; then the mixture is stirred and allowed to cool. Emollient Creams:
Another method of applying an emollient material is in the form of a lotion. The oils and waxes are identical to those of emollient creams but in lower concentrations. Lotions are preferred for day use. Formula Cetyl alcohol- -0.52% Lanolin-1.04% Stearicacid_-0.04% Stearyl alcohol- -0.94% Light mineral oil_-26% Triethanolamine 0.52% Sodium alginate 0.36% Methyl paraben-0.15% Propylene glycol-2.5% Water- qs to 100% Perfume--as The emollient oils are light mineral oil and lanolin; emollient waxes include stearyl alcohol and stearic acid; poly hydric alcohols such as Propylene glycol provide viscosity and stability. Sodium alginate and triethanolamine stearate are the emulsifying agents and methyl paraben is the preservative. Emollient Lotions:
These creams contain stearic acid, humectant and lanolin in addition to the usual ingredients. Stearic acid reduces the oiliness of the cream. Lanolin and humectants such as glycerol are emollients that act as both cleansers and emollients. All-purpose creams are not as oily as cold creams and they leave a thin film when removed from the skin; they can be used as a foundation base. Formula Stearic acid-15% Lanolin- 4% Beeswax-2% Mineral oil-23% Polysorbate 85-1% Sorbitan trioleate-1% Sorbitol-12% Water, perfume, preservative-qs Polysorbate 85 and sorbitan trioleate are the emulsifying agents and stabilisers. The rest of the ingredients (except perfume and preservatives) act as emollients. All-purpose Creams
Calcium carbonate 40% Sodium carboxy methyl cellulose -1% Glycerin-10% Propylene glycol-10% Saccharin-0.1% Sodium lauryl sulphate-2% Methyl paraben-0.1% Propyl paraben-0.05% Colour-qs Flavour-1% Water-qs to100% Method- The binder is wetted with the humectant and dispersed in the liquid portion containing saccharin and preservative and allowed to swell to form a gel. This may be accelerated by heat and agitation. To the gel, the abrasive agent is added slowly, stirring continuously till the entire mass is homogeneous. The flavour and detergent are added last and distributed uniformly. Dentifrices Dicalcium phosphate-75% Precipitated calcium carbonate-20% Sodium lauryl sulphate -1% Flavouring agent-qs Sweetening agent- qs Method: The powder mixture of abrasive and other solid ingredients are mixed with sweeteners, flavour and a little alcohol if required. This is then mixed with the rest of the powder in a conventional powder mixture. Tooth Powders Tooth Pastes
Aerosol Shaving Foams: These are oil-in-water emulsions in which a propellant liquefied under pressure forms a substantial part of the oil phase. When the emulsion is discharged into the atmosphere, the dispersed propellant droplets vaporize, producing foam that consists of propellant vapour bubbles surrounded by an aqueous surfactant phase. Saturated, long-chain fatty acids containing12-18 carbons at a level of 7-9% are the main components of aerosol shaving foams. The ratio of the fatty acids can be varied to produce foams with different physical properties. High proportion of stearic acid in the fatty acid mixture tends to produce stiffer foams and a reduction in the number of shaves per can. Replacing some of the stearic acid with lauric acid tends to produce softer foams and also improves the expulsion characteristics Shaving Preparations: Wet- Shaving Preparations:
Pre-Electric Shave Gel: Solid pre-electric shave gel sticks of the cologne type can be created by gelling ethanol with sodium stearate in the presence of glycerol and a suitable lubricant. Talc is used as the main component in pre-electric shave talc stick preparations to absorb perspiration and sebaceous secretions from the skin and to confer the characteristic slip so that the head of the shaver will glide smoothly over the face. Talc can reduce 50% of the frictional force between the skin and the polished steel. Colloidal kaolin is also added to improve the moisture absorbing capacity and adhesion to the skin. Zinc or magnesium stearate is added to enhance both adhesion and slip. Magnesium carbonate or precipitated chalk serves as a carrier for the perfume as well as increasing the absorbent properties. Talc is best applied onto the face in the form of sticks. The sticks can be moulded from an aqueous dispersion of the powders using colloidal magnesium aluminum silicate (Veegum) as the binder. Dry- Shaving Preparations:
Lipsticks: Formula I Beeswax-15% Lanolin- -10% Cetyl alcohol-10% Castor oil-25% Colour-5% Pigments-8% Perfume 1% The colours (bromo acids, pigments and lakes) are blended separately with the appropriate constituents of the base mixture. The objective is to obtain a uniform dispersion of colours. Different mills such as ball, roller and colloid can be used and, if needed, heat can be used to disperse the colours. Soluble dyes are first blended with a solvent, then the pigments are incorporated and dispersed well. Alternatively, dye blends (pigment dispersion) are added. Pigment dispersion can be accomplished by milling the pigment constituents which wet them, such as lanolin and propylene glycol, and then adding the non-polar bases. The high-melting-point waxes are melted and blended together and then blended with the rest of the mixture. The mixture should be transferred to 1 jacketed, closed vessel and stirred gently applying vacuum to remove the occluded air. After all the air has been removed, the vacuum is removed and the perfume is added. This mass can be poured into a mould immediately or stored till it is moulded. If the liquid mass is stored, it is re-melted in a small jacketed pan and agitated slowly over a period of 30 minutes. Moulds made of brass and aluminum are filled to excess to prevent the formation of a depression at the center of the stick. The excess is scrapped off and the mould is then carefully cooled to allow the mass to set without overcooling so that there is no delay in the removal of the stick from the moulds. Formula II Carnuba wax-10% Paraffin wax-10% Beeswax-15% Cetyl alcohol-5% Castor oil-25% Liquid paraffin10% Lanolin-10% Bromo acid-1% BHT-0.1% Pigments-5% Perfume-qs
(a) Preparation of Cream Shampoo: Certain formulae of cream shampoo may include glycol stearate or waxes. Usually, glycol stearate is used as an opacifier and preparation method for such formulae is similar as discussed above. But when wax is included in the formula, the process involves the following steps Initially, a solution of detergent and water are heated to about 80°C. The wax is heated separately in a container at 80°C which facilitates the melting of wax. Both the solutions are kept at 80°C and mixed uniform mixing by constant and gentle stirring. The solution is allowed to cool to about 40- 45°C. After which the remaining ingredients, such as additives, colours, perfume and preservatives are added. The stirring is continued. Finally, under warm conditions, the mixture is transferred into a suitable container and packed. Shampoos:
(c) Preparation of Aerosol Shampoo: This type of shampoo is initially prepared by using (earlier discussed) general method. The prepared shampoo is then incorporated with a suitable propellant. The whole mixture is packed in an aerosol container. The propellant creates a pressure within the container due to which spraying action is achieved and the product (shampoo) is sprayed in the form of foam. Here packing plays an important role and the propellant used should not react with the shampoo. (d) Preparation of Powder Shampoo: Powder shampoo is prepared by simple blending. Here, all the ingredients are taken in a state. They are powdered to suitable degree of fineness. The powdered ingredients are blended by using a suitable blender. Two separate solutions of perfume and colour are prepared by using alcohol or water as solvents. The prepared solutions are then sprayed onto the blended mixture. The wet mixture is dried and packed. Otherwise, the ingredients are internally soaked into the solutions of colour and perfume. Wet mass is dried and then subjected to blending. (b)Preparation of Gel Shampoo: The method involved in the preparation of gel shampoo is similar to that of clear liquid shampoo. After preparation, the liquid shampoo is usually treated with a suitable thickening or gelling agent such as hydroxy propyl methyl cellulose, this gives a gel like consistency. Addition of appropriate amount of anionic and amphoteric surfactants also leads to the formation of gels. Shampoos:
Face Powders: In manufacturing face powder, the materials should be ground to a very fine state of subdivision and then passed through a sieve of at least 100 or 120 mesh and then mixed in a horizontal mixer with a screw agitator. If water- or alcohol-soluble dyes are used, they are best sprayed on the mix or alternatively on to one of the constituents that possess good absorbency, such as talc, kaolin or magnesium carbonate. This mixture is then dried and mixed into the main bulk. Perfumes can also be added by spraying the liquid perfumes onto the powder. The main bulk is then mixed in a mixer and sieved. There are two methods of preparation: The damp method and the dry method. In the damp method, the powder is mixed with a suitable binding agent and milled to the requisite plasticity. It is then compressed into suitable containers and dried for the requisite period in a current of warm air. In the dry process, the mass is subjected to compression without being wetted to any appreciable extent. This method is probably the best for manufacturing compacts on a large scale. The presses available for the manufacture of compact powders may be of the hydraulic or the reciprocating mechanical type, varying in size, operating pressures and output. Compact powders are used with a powder puff and should not crumble or break during handling. The main difference between loose powders and compact powders lies in their binding properties. Satisfactory binding properties are essential for trouble-free compression and the production of good quality cakes over long manufacturing periods. Compact Powders:
Formula: Nitrocellulose-10% Resin-10% Plasticiser-5% Ethyl alcohol-5% Ethyl acetate-30% Butyl acetate-10% Toluene-30% The manufacturing of nail lacquer is usually carried out by specialised manufacturing firms which are familiar with the hazards of working with nitrocellulose and solvents. The following three steps are involved in the manufacture of nail polish: 1. Grinding of pigments: The pigments are mixed with nitrocellulose and the plasticiser using a 'two-roll' differential speed mill. The goal is to produce fine dispersion of colour. When properly and fully milled, the mixture is removed from the mill in sheet form. This sheet while hot is soft and plastic and can be easily dissolved in the lacquer. On cooling the sheet hardens and can be broken into chips for later use. Nail Polish:
2. Manufacture of nail lacquer: Portable or stationary stirrer-type mixers made of aluminum or stainless steel are used. For manufacturing clear lacquers, diluents are first charged into the mixing tank. Nitrocellulose is then added with the stirrer turned on and is wetted thoroughly with diluents. Subsequently, the solvent is added, then the plasticizer is added, followed by the resin. Mixing is continued for several hours until a solution of all the ingredients is obtained. Thus formed, clear lacquer is passed through a filter press or is centrifuged. The clear lacquer is stored in suitable containers until required for use. Filtration or centrifugation is an important step as it removes foreign particles and insoluble particles imparting clarity and brilliance to the lacquer. 3. Mixing of pigments with lacquer: For manufacturing nail enamels, the required amount of clear lacquer is charged into the mixing tank and the stirrer is switched on. To this pigment chips or pigment concentrate are added and mixing is continued. The product is then filled into containers and closed and screw-sealed immediately. The nail polish is tested throughout the manufacturing process for several important parameters such as drying time, smoothness of flow, gloss, hardness, colour, abrasion resistance, etc. The criteria for evaluating the nail enamel are its colour, application wear, dry time, gloss and hardness.
Formula Triethanolamine stearate-45% Carnauba wax-15% Glyceryl monostearate-5% Anhydrous lanolin-10% Unbleached beeswax-5% Lampblack-20% These are preparations containing pigments in a vanishing cream base. The coloured pigment may be incorporated into the base immediately after emulsification has been completed and agitated while the product is cooling. Alternatively, a previously prepared base is melted and the pigment is incorporated into the base. The resin is first dissolved in alcohol by stirring it in. Then carbon black is made into a pourable paste using castor oil and an alcoholic solution of resin. This mixture is then stirred well and poured into dispensers. Formula Resin (10% alcohol solution)-3% Castor oil-3% Ethyl alcohol-84% Lampblack-10% Cream Mascara : Liquid Mascara: Eye Cosmetics:
These are eye shadows made with a cream base. Colours are mixed and then blended with petroleum jelly in a roller mill. This mass is then stirred into a blend of melted fatty and waxy constituents. The mixture is then thoroughly agitated and poured into suitable containers when still in liquid form. Alternatively, the powder pigments may be stirred directly into the molten mass of fats and waxes and then passed through a roller mill to ensure thorough distribution of colours and to remove any lumps. The resultant mixture is again mixed before being poured to the container. Waterproof cream eye shadows can be prepared by adding silicone complexes. Formula Cocoa butter-2% Beeswax-3% Spermaceti-7.5% Lanolin-7.5% Petroleum jelly-50% Zinc oxide 30% Cosmetic lake, preservative-qs Eye Shadow: Formula Hydrogenated castor oil 46% Hydrogenated cottonseed oil-12% Cocoa butter (odourless-8%) Castor oil-8% Lanolin absorption base-17% Black iron oxide-_9% An eyebrow pencil is made by dispensing the pigments in a wax base of liquid type. The proportion of beeswax can be increased to produce a firmer pencil. Eyebrow Pencil:
Cosmetics production process is divided into five critical stages. From acceptance of raw material to delivery one should assure a smooth manufacturing process. Every stage is managed under the safest protocols and procedures. The quality standards are the maintained at highest possible, ensuring each product is both safe and effective. Stage 1 Acceptance of Raw Materials and Packaging: •Materials order checklist •Raw material disinfection and temperature controlling •Generated inspection sheet in the system; Later it’s passed on to the Quality Control Team •Internal identification via our barcode system •Weighing system to weigh and re-weigh raw material one by one •System alarms for suspension of work in case of discrepancies in weight PRODUCTION PROCESS
Stage 2 Micro-organism Screenings and Inspection: •Inspecting raw materials’ colors, scents and textures •Micro-organism screenings for contamination detection •Water content test, Viscosity test, Vibration test
Stage 3 Mixing and Filling: •Once materials are measured, the barcode system will confirm the materials •After confirmation, the materials will be mixed and distributed in the relevant manufacturing machines •The manufacturing process includes dissolution, charging, cooling, filtering •Formulations will be filled in appropriate packaging Stage 4 Appearance testing and inspection of semi-finished and finished products: •Inspection of semi-finished and finished products for their colors, textures, and scents in the same way our customers would inspect them •Shelf-life testing of finished products Stage 5 Shipment: •After having passed all tests and screenings, products are passed on to the warehouse •Products pass through our automated system to be shipped to our customers worldwide.
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Cosmetics.pptx

  • 1.
    Cosmetics Presentation by: DSR Amuktha PharmaceuticalProduction Technology M. Pharmacy (PRA) Geethanjali College of Pharmacy 1
  • 2.
    Definition: • The term"cosmetic" means • (1) articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced into, or otherwise applied to the human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance, and • (2) articles intended for use as a component of any such articles; except that such term shall not include soap. 2
  • 3.
    Formulation Approaches: Skin Creams: Cleansing Creams – Allantoins, SLS, Propylene Glycol, Triethanolamine, Glycerine.  Cleansing Lotions – Ex: Triethanolamine Stearate  Emollient Creams – Ex: Use of Glyceryl Monostearate  Emollient Lotions – Ex: Use of Cetyl Alcohol  Vanishing Creams – Ex: Stearic Acid  All- Purpose Creams – Ex: Use of Stearic Acid, Lanolin's and Humectants 3 Dentifrices  Toothpastes – -Abrasives – Ex: Calcium Phosphates -Detergents – Ex: Sodium Lauryl Sulphate -Humectants – Ex: Glycerine, Sorbitol etc -Binding Agents – Ex: Tragacanth Gum -Flavours – Ex: Clove -Sweetening Agents – Ex: Saccharin -Preservatives – Ex: Formalin Sodium Benzoate, Para Hydroxy Benzoate -Colouring Agents – Ex: Fluorides  Mouthwashes – Use of Thymol, Alcohol, Borax, Glycerine, Flavour and Water
  • 4.
    Shaving Preparations – Wet Shaving Preparations : Beard Softening Creams, Lather Shaving Creams, Aerosol Shaving Foams, Brushless/ Non-Lathering Creams, Brushless Shaving Sticks.  Dry Shaving Preparations: This includes Pre-electric shave lotions, Collapsible foam pre-electric shave lotions, Pre-electric shave gel sticks, Pre-electric shave talc sticks, Pre-electric shave powders. Formulation: Bases – Ex: Triethanolamine Surfactants – Ex: Anionic and Non Ionic Surfactants (SLS) Humectants – Ex: Glycerol, Sorbitol Lubricants – Ex: Mineral Oils, Lanolin Propellants – Ex: Fluorocarbon/Hydrocarbon Propellants Perfumes – Cooling Agents – Ex: Methanol Corrosion Inhibitors – Ex: Borax Bacteriostats – Ex: Trichlorohydroxydiphenyl Ether & Allantoin Pilomotor Agents – Ex: Imidazolines, Morpholines
  • 5.
    Lipsticks: Formulation: Colouring Agents: -Staining dyes(Water-soluble): Bromo acids - Eaolin -Pigments (Insoluble Form): Lakes – Calcium, Barium, Aluminium. Bases: -Oils: Castor Oils, Mineral Oils -Fatty Alcohols: Lauryl, Stearyl, Cetyl Alcohols. -Esters: Butyl Stearate, Propylene Glycol Monoesters -Emollient: Lanolin, Lecithin -Waxes: Carnuba, Candelilla -Perfumes: Floral, Fruity -Antioxidants: Butylated Hydroxy Anisole or Toluene
  • 6.
    Nail Lacquer: Formulation: Film Formers– Niro Cellulose, Cellulose Acetate Resins – Aryl Sulphonamide Formaldehyde, Santolite MS/MHP. Plasticisers – Solvent (Nitrocellulose), Non solvent (Phthalates, Phosphates) Solvents – Acetone, N-Butyl Acetate, Cellosolve Diluents – Alcohols, Aromatic Hydrocarbons Colours – Insoluble lakes (D&C, FD&C), Titanium dioxide, Iron oxides Pearlescent Pigments – Bismuth Oxychlorides, Mica Coated Titanium Dioxide Suspension Agents – Bentone 27, Bentonite 34.
  • 7.
    Shampoos:  Clear liquidShampoos, Liquid Cream Shampoos, Cream/Gel Shampoos, Solid Cream and gel shampoos, Powder Shampoos, Dry Shampoos. Formulation: • Detergents – Surfactants (Anionic, Non-Ionic, Cationic) • Opacifying agents – Alkanol amides like Stearic acid • Clarifying agents – Ethanol, Propylene glycol • Sequestering agents – EDTA • Conditioning agents – Polymers, Lanolin • Thickening agents – Alginates, CMC • Foam boosters – Guar Gum, Xanthum Gum, Sarcosinates • Activators :  Preservatives – DMDM Hydantoin, Methyl Paraben  Special additives – Botanical Extracts, FD&C Dyes
  • 8.
    Face Powders  Lightpowder, Opaque Powder, Medium Powder, Compact Powder. Formulation: • Absorbents – Rice Starch, Calcium Carbonate ppt, Mg. Carbonate • Covering Agents – Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide • Slip Imparting Agents – Talc (Hydrated Mg. Silicate), Zinc Stearate • Adhesion Agents – Cetyl/Stearate Alcohol, Glyceryl Mono Stearate • Blooming Agents – Rice Starch, Calcium Carbonate ppt • Colouring Agents – Pigments and lakes • Perfumes – Flowery/Fruity.
  • 9.
    9 Preparation Of Cosmetics CleansingCreams: A cold cream based on a beeswax-borax combination has the following formula. Formula: Beeswax-16% Mineral oil-50% Borax-0.8% Water-33% Perfume-qs Preservatives-qs When borax is mixed with molten beeswax, it undergoes hydrolysis and the subsequent reaction of sodium hydroxide with the free acids present in the beeswax form the corresponding soaps (sodium salts of the wax acids). These soaps emulsify the mineral oil in the water. Other components of beeswax such as myricy alcohol stabilize the emulsion. The beeswax-borax emulsion represents the most important formulation among cleansing creams. Typically, they are white, lustrous creams of o/w-type emulsion. When the cream is rubbed on the skin, sufficient water evaporates to permit the phase inversion to w/o-type with oil as the external phase; solvent action of the oil then facilitates cleansing of the skin Skin Creams:
  • 10.
    Formula: Stearic acid-5.33% Triethanolamine-2.66% Mineral oil-35% Beeswax-2% Water-55% Perfume-0.5-1% Triethanolaminestearate, formed by the reaction of stearic acid and triethanolamine, is an effective emulsifier. Beeswax is used to thicken and stabilise the emulsion. Cleansing Lotions: Creams that spread with ease and vanish or disappear on rubbing on the skin are called vanishing creams. Formula Stearic acid-17% Potassium hydroxide_ 0.7% Glycerin-_5% Water-gs to 100% Perfume and preservatives –qs In the above formula, potassium hydroxide reacts with stearic acid to form potassium stearate, which acts as an emulsifying agent. Cleansing lotions perform the same functions as cleansing creams but can be spread easily and more uniformly. Vanishing Creams
  • 11.
    Emollient creams areeffective in softening and imparting emollience to the dry, scaly stratum corneum. An emollient cream with a non-ionic, o/w-type emulsion has the following formula. Formula: Glyceryl mono stearate-4.5% Lanolin-1.0% Isopropyl myristate-4.3% PEG 1000 monostearate-6.0% Stearic acid-7.2% Propyl paraben-0.15% Methyl paraben-0.15% Propylene glycol-2.5% Water-74.0% Perfume-qs The lipids and oil-soluble ingredients are heated to 75° in a steam-jacketed kettle. The water-soluble components are dissolved in the aqueous phase and heated to 75°The internal phase is very slowly added to the external phase, stirring continuously. Perfume is added to the emulsion at 45°; then the mixture is stirred and allowed to cool. Emollient Creams:
  • 12.
    Another method ofapplying an emollient material is in the form of a lotion. The oils and waxes are identical to those of emollient creams but in lower concentrations. Lotions are preferred for day use. Formula Cetyl alcohol- -0.52% Lanolin-1.04% Stearicacid_-0.04% Stearyl alcohol- -0.94% Light mineral oil_-26% Triethanolamine 0.52% Sodium alginate 0.36% Methyl paraben-0.15% Propylene glycol-2.5% Water- qs to 100% Perfume--as The emollient oils are light mineral oil and lanolin; emollient waxes include stearyl alcohol and stearic acid; poly hydric alcohols such as Propylene glycol provide viscosity and stability. Sodium alginate and triethanolamine stearate are the emulsifying agents and methyl paraben is the preservative. Emollient Lotions:
  • 13.
    These creams containstearic acid, humectant and lanolin in addition to the usual ingredients. Stearic acid reduces the oiliness of the cream. Lanolin and humectants such as glycerol are emollients that act as both cleansers and emollients. All-purpose creams are not as oily as cold creams and they leave a thin film when removed from the skin; they can be used as a foundation base. Formula Stearic acid-15% Lanolin- 4% Beeswax-2% Mineral oil-23% Polysorbate 85-1% Sorbitan trioleate-1% Sorbitol-12% Water, perfume, preservative-qs Polysorbate 85 and sorbitan trioleate are the emulsifying agents and stabilisers. The rest of the ingredients (except perfume and preservatives) act as emollients. All-purpose Creams
  • 14.
    Calcium carbonate 40% Sodiumcarboxy methyl cellulose -1% Glycerin-10% Propylene glycol-10% Saccharin-0.1% Sodium lauryl sulphate-2% Methyl paraben-0.1% Propyl paraben-0.05% Colour-qs Flavour-1% Water-qs to100% Method- The binder is wetted with the humectant and dispersed in the liquid portion containing saccharin and preservative and allowed to swell to form a gel. This may be accelerated by heat and agitation. To the gel, the abrasive agent is added slowly, stirring continuously till the entire mass is homogeneous. The flavour and detergent are added last and distributed uniformly. Dentifrices Dicalcium phosphate-75% Precipitated calcium carbonate-20% Sodium lauryl sulphate -1% Flavouring agent-qs Sweetening agent- qs Method: The powder mixture of abrasive and other solid ingredients are mixed with sweeteners, flavour and a little alcohol if required. This is then mixed with the rest of the powder in a conventional powder mixture. Tooth Powders Tooth Pastes
  • 16.
    Aerosol Shaving Foams: Theseare oil-in-water emulsions in which a propellant liquefied under pressure forms a substantial part of the oil phase. When the emulsion is discharged into the atmosphere, the dispersed propellant droplets vaporize, producing foam that consists of propellant vapour bubbles surrounded by an aqueous surfactant phase. Saturated, long-chain fatty acids containing12-18 carbons at a level of 7-9% are the main components of aerosol shaving foams. The ratio of the fatty acids can be varied to produce foams with different physical properties. High proportion of stearic acid in the fatty acid mixture tends to produce stiffer foams and a reduction in the number of shaves per can. Replacing some of the stearic acid with lauric acid tends to produce softer foams and also improves the expulsion characteristics Shaving Preparations: Wet- Shaving Preparations:
  • 17.
    Pre-Electric Shave Gel: Solidpre-electric shave gel sticks of the cologne type can be created by gelling ethanol with sodium stearate in the presence of glycerol and a suitable lubricant. Talc is used as the main component in pre-electric shave talc stick preparations to absorb perspiration and sebaceous secretions from the skin and to confer the characteristic slip so that the head of the shaver will glide smoothly over the face. Talc can reduce 50% of the frictional force between the skin and the polished steel. Colloidal kaolin is also added to improve the moisture absorbing capacity and adhesion to the skin. Zinc or magnesium stearate is added to enhance both adhesion and slip. Magnesium carbonate or precipitated chalk serves as a carrier for the perfume as well as increasing the absorbent properties. Talc is best applied onto the face in the form of sticks. The sticks can be moulded from an aqueous dispersion of the powders using colloidal magnesium aluminum silicate (Veegum) as the binder. Dry- Shaving Preparations:
  • 18.
    Lipsticks: Formula I Beeswax-15% Lanolin- -10% Cetylalcohol-10% Castor oil-25% Colour-5% Pigments-8% Perfume 1% The colours (bromo acids, pigments and lakes) are blended separately with the appropriate constituents of the base mixture. The objective is to obtain a uniform dispersion of colours. Different mills such as ball, roller and colloid can be used and, if needed, heat can be used to disperse the colours. Soluble dyes are first blended with a solvent, then the pigments are incorporated and dispersed well. Alternatively, dye blends (pigment dispersion) are added. Pigment dispersion can be accomplished by milling the pigment constituents which wet them, such as lanolin and propylene glycol, and then adding the non-polar bases. The high-melting-point waxes are melted and blended together and then blended with the rest of the mixture. The mixture should be transferred to 1 jacketed, closed vessel and stirred gently applying vacuum to remove the occluded air. After all the air has been removed, the vacuum is removed and the perfume is added. This mass can be poured into a mould immediately or stored till it is moulded. If the liquid mass is stored, it is re-melted in a small jacketed pan and agitated slowly over a period of 30 minutes. Moulds made of brass and aluminum are filled to excess to prevent the formation of a depression at the center of the stick. The excess is scrapped off and the mould is then carefully cooled to allow the mass to set without overcooling so that there is no delay in the removal of the stick from the moulds. Formula II Carnuba wax-10% Paraffin wax-10% Beeswax-15% Cetyl alcohol-5% Castor oil-25% Liquid paraffin10% Lanolin-10% Bromo acid-1% BHT-0.1% Pigments-5% Perfume-qs
  • 19.
    (a) Preparation ofCream Shampoo: Certain formulae of cream shampoo may include glycol stearate or waxes. Usually, glycol stearate is used as an opacifier and preparation method for such formulae is similar as discussed above. But when wax is included in the formula, the process involves the following steps Initially, a solution of detergent and water are heated to about 80°C. The wax is heated separately in a container at 80°C which facilitates the melting of wax. Both the solutions are kept at 80°C and mixed uniform mixing by constant and gentle stirring. The solution is allowed to cool to about 40- 45°C. After which the remaining ingredients, such as additives, colours, perfume and preservatives are added. The stirring is continued. Finally, under warm conditions, the mixture is transferred into a suitable container and packed. Shampoos:
  • 20.
    (c) Preparation ofAerosol Shampoo: This type of shampoo is initially prepared by using (earlier discussed) general method. The prepared shampoo is then incorporated with a suitable propellant. The whole mixture is packed in an aerosol container. The propellant creates a pressure within the container due to which spraying action is achieved and the product (shampoo) is sprayed in the form of foam. Here packing plays an important role and the propellant used should not react with the shampoo. (d) Preparation of Powder Shampoo: Powder shampoo is prepared by simple blending. Here, all the ingredients are taken in a state. They are powdered to suitable degree of fineness. The powdered ingredients are blended by using a suitable blender. Two separate solutions of perfume and colour are prepared by using alcohol or water as solvents. The prepared solutions are then sprayed onto the blended mixture. The wet mixture is dried and packed. Otherwise, the ingredients are internally soaked into the solutions of colour and perfume. Wet mass is dried and then subjected to blending. (b)Preparation of Gel Shampoo: The method involved in the preparation of gel shampoo is similar to that of clear liquid shampoo. After preparation, the liquid shampoo is usually treated with a suitable thickening or gelling agent such as hydroxy propyl methyl cellulose, this gives a gel like consistency. Addition of appropriate amount of anionic and amphoteric surfactants also leads to the formation of gels. Shampoos:
  • 21.
    Face Powders: In manufacturingface powder, the materials should be ground to a very fine state of subdivision and then passed through a sieve of at least 100 or 120 mesh and then mixed in a horizontal mixer with a screw agitator. If water- or alcohol-soluble dyes are used, they are best sprayed on the mix or alternatively on to one of the constituents that possess good absorbency, such as talc, kaolin or magnesium carbonate. This mixture is then dried and mixed into the main bulk. Perfumes can also be added by spraying the liquid perfumes onto the powder. The main bulk is then mixed in a mixer and sieved. There are two methods of preparation: The damp method and the dry method. In the damp method, the powder is mixed with a suitable binding agent and milled to the requisite plasticity. It is then compressed into suitable containers and dried for the requisite period in a current of warm air. In the dry process, the mass is subjected to compression without being wetted to any appreciable extent. This method is probably the best for manufacturing compacts on a large scale. The presses available for the manufacture of compact powders may be of the hydraulic or the reciprocating mechanical type, varying in size, operating pressures and output. Compact powders are used with a powder puff and should not crumble or break during handling. The main difference between loose powders and compact powders lies in their binding properties. Satisfactory binding properties are essential for trouble-free compression and the production of good quality cakes over long manufacturing periods. Compact Powders:
  • 22.
    Formula: Nitrocellulose-10% Resin-10% Plasticiser-5% Ethyl alcohol-5% Ethyl acetate-30% Butylacetate-10% Toluene-30% The manufacturing of nail lacquer is usually carried out by specialised manufacturing firms which are familiar with the hazards of working with nitrocellulose and solvents. The following three steps are involved in the manufacture of nail polish: 1. Grinding of pigments: The pigments are mixed with nitrocellulose and the plasticiser using a 'two-roll' differential speed mill. The goal is to produce fine dispersion of colour. When properly and fully milled, the mixture is removed from the mill in sheet form. This sheet while hot is soft and plastic and can be easily dissolved in the lacquer. On cooling the sheet hardens and can be broken into chips for later use. Nail Polish:
  • 23.
    2. Manufacture ofnail lacquer: Portable or stationary stirrer-type mixers made of aluminum or stainless steel are used. For manufacturing clear lacquers, diluents are first charged into the mixing tank. Nitrocellulose is then added with the stirrer turned on and is wetted thoroughly with diluents. Subsequently, the solvent is added, then the plasticizer is added, followed by the resin. Mixing is continued for several hours until a solution of all the ingredients is obtained. Thus formed, clear lacquer is passed through a filter press or is centrifuged. The clear lacquer is stored in suitable containers until required for use. Filtration or centrifugation is an important step as it removes foreign particles and insoluble particles imparting clarity and brilliance to the lacquer. 3. Mixing of pigments with lacquer: For manufacturing nail enamels, the required amount of clear lacquer is charged into the mixing tank and the stirrer is switched on. To this pigment chips or pigment concentrate are added and mixing is continued. The product is then filled into containers and closed and screw-sealed immediately. The nail polish is tested throughout the manufacturing process for several important parameters such as drying time, smoothness of flow, gloss, hardness, colour, abrasion resistance, etc. The criteria for evaluating the nail enamel are its colour, application wear, dry time, gloss and hardness.
  • 24.
    Formula Triethanolamine stearate-45% Carnauba wax-15% Glycerylmonostearate-5% Anhydrous lanolin-10% Unbleached beeswax-5% Lampblack-20% These are preparations containing pigments in a vanishing cream base. The coloured pigment may be incorporated into the base immediately after emulsification has been completed and agitated while the product is cooling. Alternatively, a previously prepared base is melted and the pigment is incorporated into the base. The resin is first dissolved in alcohol by stirring it in. Then carbon black is made into a pourable paste using castor oil and an alcoholic solution of resin. This mixture is then stirred well and poured into dispensers. Formula Resin (10% alcohol solution)-3% Castor oil-3% Ethyl alcohol-84% Lampblack-10% Cream Mascara : Liquid Mascara: Eye Cosmetics:
  • 25.
    These are eyeshadows made with a cream base. Colours are mixed and then blended with petroleum jelly in a roller mill. This mass is then stirred into a blend of melted fatty and waxy constituents. The mixture is then thoroughly agitated and poured into suitable containers when still in liquid form. Alternatively, the powder pigments may be stirred directly into the molten mass of fats and waxes and then passed through a roller mill to ensure thorough distribution of colours and to remove any lumps. The resultant mixture is again mixed before being poured to the container. Waterproof cream eye shadows can be prepared by adding silicone complexes. Formula Cocoa butter-2% Beeswax-3% Spermaceti-7.5% Lanolin-7.5% Petroleum jelly-50% Zinc oxide 30% Cosmetic lake, preservative-qs Eye Shadow: Formula Hydrogenated castor oil 46% Hydrogenated cottonseed oil-12% Cocoa butter (odourless-8%) Castor oil-8% Lanolin absorption base-17% Black iron oxide-_9% An eyebrow pencil is made by dispensing the pigments in a wax base of liquid type. The proportion of beeswax can be increased to produce a firmer pencil. Eyebrow Pencil:
  • 26.
    Cosmetics production processis divided into five critical stages. From acceptance of raw material to delivery one should assure a smooth manufacturing process. Every stage is managed under the safest protocols and procedures. The quality standards are the maintained at highest possible, ensuring each product is both safe and effective. Stage 1 Acceptance of Raw Materials and Packaging: •Materials order checklist •Raw material disinfection and temperature controlling •Generated inspection sheet in the system; Later it’s passed on to the Quality Control Team •Internal identification via our barcode system •Weighing system to weigh and re-weigh raw material one by one •System alarms for suspension of work in case of discrepancies in weight PRODUCTION PROCESS
  • 28.
    Stage 2 Micro-organism Screeningsand Inspection: •Inspecting raw materials’ colors, scents and textures •Micro-organism screenings for contamination detection •Water content test, Viscosity test, Vibration test
  • 29.
    Stage 3 Mixing andFilling: •Once materials are measured, the barcode system will confirm the materials •After confirmation, the materials will be mixed and distributed in the relevant manufacturing machines •The manufacturing process includes dissolution, charging, cooling, filtering •Formulations will be filled in appropriate packaging Stage 4 Appearance testing and inspection of semi-finished and finished products: •Inspection of semi-finished and finished products for their colors, textures, and scents in the same way our customers would inspect them •Shelf-life testing of finished products Stage 5 Shipment: •After having passed all tests and screenings, products are passed on to the warehouse •Products pass through our automated system to be shipped to our customers worldwide.
  • 30.