Hair cosmetics include hair tonics, oils, conditioners, removers, dyes, and shaving preparations. Hair conditioners improve hair texture and damage. They contain moisturizers, reconstructors, detanglers, and other ingredients. Hair removers work chemically or mechanically to degrade or remove hairs. Depilatories contain ingredients like sulphides or thioglycolates that break hair bonds. Shaving preparations soften beards and lubricate skin before shaving and cool and refresh skin after. Hair dyes use ingredients like dyes, alkalizers, and antioxidants to temporarily, semi-permanently, or permanently color hair. Formulations are evaluated for

1. COSMETICS
M.Swetha

2. Cosmetics for hair

3. HAIR COSMETICS
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HAIR TONICS1
2
3
5
HAIR OIL
HAIR REMOVERS
HAIR COLOURENTS
SHAVING PREPARATION

4. HAIR TONICS
• For Oily Scalps: To correct the oily
condition……
• For Dry scalps: to supplement oily
character…..

5. Hair conditioner
• Hair conditioner alter the texture and appearance of human
hair and to improve damaged hair.
• Used after shampoo, to render the hair shinier, easy to comb,
and free from static electricity when dry.
• Conditioners are usually based on cationic detergents and
fatty materials like lanolin or mineral oil.

6. Ingredients
1. Moisturizers.
• Whose role is to hold moisture in the hair. Usually these
contain high proportions of humectants.
2. Re constructors.
• Usually containing hydrolyzed protein.
• Their role is to penetrate the hair and strengthen its structure
through polymer cross linking.
3. Detanglers.
• Which modify the hair surface by pH as acidifiers, and/or by
coating it with polymers, as glossers.

7. 4. Acidifiers.
• Acidity regulators which maintain the conditioner's pH at
about 2.5–3.5
5.Thermal protectors.
• Usually heat-absorbing polymers, shielding the hair against
excessive heat
e.g., blow-drying or curling irons or hot rollers.

8. 6. Surfactants.
• Hair consists of approximately 97% of a protein called keratin, it
contains negatively-charged amino acids
• Hair conditioners therefore usually contain cationic surfactants,
which don't wash out completely, because their hydrophilic ends
strongly bind to keratin.
• The hydrophobic ends of the surfactant molecules then act as the
new hair surface.

9. 7. Oils (EFAs).
Which can help dry/porous hair become more soft and
pliable.
8. Sequestrants.
The scalp produce natural oil called sebum. EFAs are the
closest thing to natural sebum.
9. Lubricants.
Such as fatty alcohols, panthenol, dimethicone, etc for better
function in hard water.

11. Hairoil
• For nourishment and care of hair.
• Either in the form of pure oil or some ingredients are
dissolved in it.

12. HAIR REMOVERS
EPILATORIESDEPILATORIES
Mechanical Chemical
For removing unwanted hairs. Several methods
like waxing threading etc…
Other various methods are electrolysis and diathermy.

13. Depilatories
• For degradation of superficial hair
chemically without affecting the skin.
• Act by degrading the hair keratin.
• Contain alkaline solutions and reducing
agents.
• Which cause swelling of hair fiber and
breakdown of cystine bridges between
adjacent polypeptide chains.

14. Formula
1. Strontium sulphide
2. Talc
3. Methyl cellulose
4. Glycerine
5. Water
6. Perfume
7. Preservative
20g
20g
3g
15g
42g
q.s
q.s

15. Ingredients
1. Inorganic Sulphides :
a) Sodium sulphide: (2%) at pH 12 (not used due to
strong action on skin)
b) Barium sulphide: highly toxic
c) Calcium sulphide: less toxic, less effective.
d) Strontium sulphide: better choice.(25-50%)
action within 3 min.
Disadv: unpleasent odour (formation of hydrogen
sulphide)

16. 2.Thioglycolates :
 Most widely used active ingredient are substituted
mercaptans
 Used in conjugation with alkali
 2.5 – 4% of calcium thioglycolate in conjugn with CaOH at
pH 11-12 take 5-15 min for hair removal.
 Less toxic and less odour than sulphides.
3. Stannites :
 Sodium stannite is commonly used
 In presence of water it produces strong reducing and alkaline
effect

17. 4. Enzymes :
 Keratinase enzyme have depilatory action
 Non irritant and odourless
 3-4%is used and optimum pH is 7-8
5. Other additives :
Humectant : prevent quick drying
Eg: Glycerin, Sorbitol
Thickening Agent: Starch, Methylcellulose, Mucin.
 PEG used to form film.
 Fat used for skin protection & conditioning.

18. EPILATORIES
• Plucking the hair either by tweezers,
threading or by waxing.
• Rosin and wax are the main ingredient.
• Local anesthetic benzocain.
• Camphor, Hexachlorophane is also
added.

19. CHEMICAL
ANALYSIS
TOXICITY
TEST
STABILITY
TEST
RHEOLOGY
•Estimation of hair
removing agent.
•Instrumental analysis
•Rabbit test.
•Microscopical study
Accelarated stability
study
Viscometer
EVALUATION

20. SHAVING PPREPARATION
• Preparation used before shaving
• Preparation used after shaving
Wet shaving preparation .
Dry shaving preparation .
After shave preparation .

21. Preparation used before shaving
1. For shaving with razor blade.
classified in to ,
I. Shaving soaps: solids and creams
II. Brushless shaving cream.
III. Aerosol preparation.

22. Types of shaving
preparation
• Beard softening cream
• Lather shaving sticks
• Lather shaving soaps
• Aerosol shaving foams
• Brushless shaving creams
• Brushless shaving sticks

23. • Beard softening cream –These pre shave
preparation are used to wet and soften the
beard and to lubricate the skin.
• Used to facilitate razor
It contains
Lime soap-dispersing agents
Anti bacterial agent-menthol
Preservative- tri ethanolamine stearate,
lanoline

24. • Lather shaving cream
• Fatty oils + Hydroxides to form soap
• 30 -50 % soaps
• Humectant
• Emollients –lanoline ,cetyl alcohol ,mineral
oil
• Surfactant
• Anti bacterial agent-menthol

25. Lather shaving sticks
• 80% Fatty acid soaps.
• 5-10% glycerol .
• 8-10% water.
• Aerosol shaving foams
• tri ethanolamine , potassium Hydroxide
saponification with propellants.
• Surfactants,
humectant,lubricants,propellant,perfume.

26. • Heated shaving foams –increase the
temperature

27. 2. For electric shaving.
 For lubrication: Talc, Magnesiumstearate
 To absorb perspiration: Kaolin, Magnesium Carbonate
 For drying the skin : Alcohol
 Astringent And Antiseptics

28. Preparation used after shaving
• To cool and refresh the skin.
• Used in the form of lotions, creams and powders.
• Contain antiseptics, emollient etc.
• Also contain menthol, glycerin, boric acid, alum and
chloroform.

29. • For after shave lotion:
1. Antiseptic property.
2. Determination of alcohol content
3. Dermatological test.

30. Hair lighteners and bleaches
• Bleaching, also referred to as hair lightening or
decolorizing
• Destruction of melanin by chemical reaction.
• Hydrogen peroxide (3-5%) and ammonium hydroxide are
frequently used.
• EDTA – sequestering agent

31. HAIRCOLORENTS /DYES
• Ideal hair dye should have certain properties……
• Imprtant charecterestic to be considered are,
Molecular size and pH
• Doesn’t permit molecules larger than ethylene glycol.
• Higher pH greater absorption but damage the hair.

32. Common ingredients in hair dyes:
In general, hair dyes include
 DYES
• The dye chemicals are usually amino compounds.
• Metal oxides, such as titanium dioxide and iron oxide, are
often used as pigments.
 MODIFIERS
• They stabilize the dye pigments or otherwise act to modify the
shade.
• One commonly used - resorcinol.

33.  Alkalizers
• Alkalizers are added to change the pH of the dye formula,
because the dyes work best in a highly alkaline composition.
• Ammonium hydroxide is a common alkalizer.
 Antioxidants
• Antioxidants protect the dye from oxidizing with air. Most
commonly used is sodium sulfite.

34.  Ammonia: used to open hair shaft for dye penetration.
 Agents which make the dye more or less permanent.
 Soaps, wetting agents, fragrance, softening agents.

35. Classification
Temporary colorant
Semi- permanent colorant
Permanent colorant
Lightners or Bleaches

36. Temporary Color
These dyes or colorants impart color to the hair for a
short time.
Absorption of the dye stuff takes place only on hair
cuticle not penetrate in to the cortex and medulla.
pH of the solution is adjusted at about 5.

37. Semitransparent Colorants
These colorants give stronger coloration to the hair, and can
withstand up to six to eight shampooing.
Mainly based on basic dye stuff of nitro amino dyes. These are
usually red or yellow.
A mixture anionic and / or non ionic surfactant with a cation
active dye is used to get semitransparent coloring.
Formation of anion cation colour complex.

38. Permanent colorants
• These are either vegetable origin or salts of heavy metals.
• The main ingredients of the formulations are
1. Base: Solution, emulsion , Gel, Powder, Shampoo.
2. Dye: Oxidation Base
3. Alkali: Ammonia.
4. Antioxidants: Ammonium Thioglycolate.

39. EVALUATION
Antiseptic
property
Stability
test
Sensitivity
test
In vitro anti microbiological tests
against some specific organisms
using liquid or solid medium
Effect of heat, light etc on the
stability.Accelerated stability study
is done for determining stability.
Antiseptics,may cause irritation, sensitization
or photosensitization of the skin. This can be
done by patch test, either open or occlusive.

40. evaluation
• For shaving preparation:
1. Determination of free caustic alkali.
2. Determination of potash soap.
3. Determination of total free acid.
4. Determination of total fatty material
5. Foam formation
6. Skin sensitization.
7. Stability of the cream