Unitat de la indústria tèxtil en anglès per a tecnologia de 2n de l'ESO. Treballada en el curs GEP 2017/2018.

1. Tecnologia 2n ESO
Jordi Pipó Vicent

2.  Steps in the tailoring history:
 Individually: each family made their clothes.
 Specialized: job is improved, origin of guild artisans like
weavers or tailors.
 Industrial: process is made by factories with machines.

3.  Textile colonies:
 They were industry buildings located near rivers like Llobregat,
Ter or Cardener.
 Important during the first part of XXth century at Catalunya.
 Colònia Güell (Sta. Cma. Cervelló) or Colònia Vidal
(Esparreguera).

4.  Globalization:
 Production has been reduced in regions and cities with textile
factories in the past like Anoia, Terrassa or Alcoi.
 In other countries like Xina, Blangadesh or Vietnam production
has been located there. This has affected quality products and
workers conditions.

5.  Vegetal fibers:
 Cotton: it’s the cotton plant fruit. White, short, resistent and
flexible fibers. For shirts, underwear, dresses, cotton buds, ...
 Linen: smooth and fresh touch. For clothes and bedding.

6.  Vegetal fibers:
 Esparto grass: gramineous plants (grain plants). Rough and dry
touch. Ropes, sandals, baskets, ...
 Hemp: in disuse. Yellowish colour. Ropes, sandals, bags.

7.  Animal fibers:
 Wool: sheeps from different breeds. Smooth and warm. Warm
clothing: jumpers, coats, blankets or tapestries.
 Silk: from silk worm cocoons. Shiny, warm and smooth touch.
Expensive clothes.

8.  Mineral fibers:
 Asbestos: fireproof and acids unassailable rock. For industries
facilities, firemen clothes or like thermal insulating.

9.  Artificial fibers:
 Rayon: from trees cellulose. Simulates silk and dryes fast. For
lingerie, tapestry, dresses,...
 Nylon: plastic of polyamide group (PA). Elastic, resistent, no
need to iron. Used for tights.

10.  Synthetic fibers:
 Polyester: derivative substances from crude oil. Smooth, shiny,
strong, without wrinkling and shrinking. T-shirts, trousers,
skirts, blouses, ...
 Composed fibers: different kind of fibers get mixed to
improve their properties. For example, cotton socks with elastic
material to lock at the feet.

11.  Vegetal fibers: coconut, jute, agave.
 Animal fibers: mohair, cashmere, angora, alpaca, horse.
 Synthetic fibers:tergal, lycra, terlenka, crilenka, “perlé”,...

12.  Processes:
 Spinning: Threads/yarns are
obtained from textile fibers.
 Dye: threads are dyed with
colours.
 Weaving: horizontal threads are
interweaved with vertical ones
creating tissues.
 Textile finishing: prints or
improvement of tissues
properties.
 Dressmaking: clothe pieces are
formed by patterns, cutting and
sewing them.

13.  Textile fibers tend to be short. This is the reason why fibers must
be twisted; and sorted in order to form threads.
 Threads are cylindrical, very thin, continous, with fibers
interweaved.
 Threads can have different heads and different fibers also..
 Their features are:
 Torsion: turns for centimeter that are made to the fibers in
order that the thread doesn’t undo.
 Torsion direction: clockwise (Z) or counterclokwise (S).

14.  Other features:
 Twist: torsion made to the threads with more than one head.
 Thickness: measured by texs (g/km of thread). Thickness of
fibers is measured by microns (). 1  equals to 1/1000mm.
 Presentation: can be with rollers, cones, bobines or skeins.

15.  There are so many automated industrial machines. Their name
are spinning machines. In ancient times the work was made
handcrafted.

16.  Carder: uses nappa, a thick layer and spongy made from feabers.
After catching it, combes, cleans and transforms it into carded
fiber.

17.  Comber: machine used to compress and pull carded fibers in
order to get slivers (short and thick wad made of parallel fibers).

18.  Ring spinning: machine that finish to length slivers and twisht
them slightly. It produces bobbins of threads.

19.  Yarn machine: it creates the yarn.

20.  Tissues are got when threads are interlaced.
 Features depends on fibers, flexibility, tensile strength, length,
diameter, type of interlace, finished, waterproofing,...
 Two different types: knitted fabric or flatweaves.
 There are also different kind of tissues according to each trade
name: flannel, corduroy, velvet, ...

21.  Only one thread is interlaced between itself.Resistant and elastic
 Handcrafted or made by knitting machines.
 Techniques like warp or woof thread.

22.  Two or more threads are interlaced vertically.
 Warp is formed with parallel threads. Warp is interweaved with
other thread named woof using a filling carrier.
 There are techniques like taffeta, twill weave or denim.

23.  Are obtained using looms.

24.  Consists on giving colours to tissues. It can be done intwo ways:
 Thread dyeing: threads are immersed with a colour dye. After
this they are twist with a roller.
 Tissue dyeing: all the tissue is dyed with one colour.

25.  A significant technique is the printed. In this case, tissue is
printed with a drawing.

26.  Tissues properties as texture or brightness are improved.
 Shred: breaks fibers of a tissue with a brush in order to have a
bulky look. For example, flannel in winter pyjamas.
 Teaseling: leftover threads or fluffs are eliminated.
 Sanforized: prevent tissues to shrink when they are wet.

27.  Patterns are created designing pieces of clothes. These patterns
are figures of parts of the clothes. After that, figures are drawn
on the tissues in order to cut and join them later.
 Clothes joins can be permanent, like a T-shirt neck, or non
permanent, like a jaquet zip. Permanent joins use to be made
with threads.

28.  Running stitch: joins with the same direction. Sews are visible
on the two sides of the tissue.
 Feather stitch: sews are parallel.

29.  Cording stitch: weave short and long stitches.
 Heming or overcatch stitch: diagonal sewing.
 Cross stitch: every stitch is made by two sews weaved.
 c

30.  Buttons
 Velcro
 Zip
 Snap: two round pieces that fit perfectly.
 Grommet: metal ring where the lace goes through.

31.  They give information about the size clothe, textile type and
washing, ironing and drying conditions. Operations:
 Hand or machine washing: number indicates maximum
temperature, a head picture indicates hand, cool symbol that
cannot be washed with warm water, ...
 Bleach: shows if bleach can be used.
 Dry clean: letter inside a circle shows type of solvent.
 Iron: shows ironing temperature with one dot (110ºC),
two(150ºC) or three (200ºC).
 Tumble dry: one dot indicates normal temperature, instead,
two is for reduced temperature.
 Dry: shows if it has to be used a line or flat without a line.
 Forbidden: crosses forbide a specific operation.

33.  Guild: gremi
 Weaver: filadora
 Tailor: sastre
 Cotton buds: cotonets
 Linen: lli
 Smooth: suau
 Bedding: roba de llit
 Hemp: cànem
 Breed: raça
 Blanket: manta
 Tapestry: tapís
 Silk: seda
 Worm cocoon: cuc de seda
 Shiny: brillant
 Asbestos: amiant

34.  Unassailable: inatacable
 Facility: equipament
 Insulating: aïllament
 Iron: planxar
 Tights: mitges
 Crude oil: petroli
 Wrinkling: arrugar
 Shrinking: encongir
 Spinning: filatura
 Thread: fil
 Yarn: fil
 Dye: tint
 Print: estampació
 Dressmaking: tall i confecció
 Pattern: patró
 Sewing: cosint

35.  Tend to: tendeix a
 Twisted: retorçats
 Sorted: ordenat
 Features: característiques
 Torsion: torsió
 Undo: desfer
 Torsion direction: sentit de torsió
 Clockwise: horari
 Counterclockwise: antihorari
 Thickness: gruix
 Tex: tex, unitat de mesura
 Micron: micra, unitat de mesura
 Roller: rodet
 Skein: madeixa
 Handcrafted: artesà

36.  Carder: carda (de llana)
 Nappa: napa
 Combe: pentinar
 Carded fiber: cintes de carda
 Comber: manuar
 Slivers: vetes
 Wad: manyoc
 Ring spinning: metxera
 Slightly: lleugerament
 Bobbins of threads: metxa
 Yarn machine: filadora d’anells
 Interlaced: entrellaçar
 Tensile strength: resistència a la tracció
 Length: llargada
 Knitted fabric: teixits de punt
 Flatweaves: teixits plans

37.  Trade name: nom comercial
 Flannel: franel·la
 Corduroy: pana
 Velvet: vellut
 Knitting machine: tricotosa
 Warp: trama
 Woof: ordit
 Vertically: perpendicularment
 Filling carrier: llançadora
 Taffeta: tafetà
 Twill weave: sarja
 Denim: texà
 Loom: teler
 Thread dyeing: tintatge de fils
 Tissue dyeing: tintatge de teixits
 Brightness: brillantor
 Shred: desfribatge

38.  Teaseling: perxatge
 Fluffs: pèls sobrers
 Sanforized: sanforització
 Zip: cremallera
 Running stitch: punt de basta
 Feather stitch: punt de fistó
 Cording stitch: punt de fistó combinat
 Heming stitch: punt de contorn
 Overcatch stitch: punt de contorn
 Cross stitch: punt de creu
 Snap: fermall
 Grommet: ullet
 Lace: cordó
 Bleach: lleixiu
 Dry clean: rentada en sec
 Solvent: dissolvent
 Tumble dry: eixugada a màquina
 Dry: eixugat
 Forbidden: prohibit