Tools & machines for apparel construction

2. UNIT-2
SPREADING & CUTTING

3. Spreading/ Laying
Spreading ….

4. Meaning of Spreading / Laying
Spreading means –
the smooth laying out of the fabric
in superimposed layers (Plies)
of Specified length.

5. Types of Lay
There are 3 types of Lay:
Single Ply
Multiple- Ply
Stepped lay

6. Types of Lay Plan
1. Half Garment Lay
2. Whole Garment Lay
3. Single Size Lay
4. Multi-size Lays
a. Sectional Lay
b. Interlocking lay
c. Mixed Multi-size Lay

7. Spreading Methods
1. Manual Spreading
2. Spreading Carriage
3. Automatic Spreading Machines

8. Presentation of Fabric
 Presentation of Fabric Means the form in which the
material has been deliverd.

9. Forms of Spreading
 . One Way Cutting is when fabric is laid the same way up
with grain or print pattern running in the same direction.
Fabric has to be cut at the end of each ply.
2. Fact to Face Cutting is when the plies are laid in pairs
face to face. The grain or pattern runs in the same
direction.
3. Two Way Cutting is when plies are laid continuously
from left to righ and right to left without cutting at the end.
Most Efficient method of spreading. Cannot be used with
grain restrictions or one directional printed fabric.

10. Cutting
 cutting means to cut the garments piece from lays of
fabric with help of cutting equipment and template.
During cutting the marker is applied to top ply of lay.
 The objective of cutting is to separate fabric parts as
reline of pattern pieces in the marker plan .in
achieving this object accurately there have some
certain requirement.

11. Importance of cutting
 The objective of cutting is to separate fabric parts and
replicas of pattern pieces in the marker plan.
 By accurate cutting we can minimize the fabric
wastage.
 Without fabric cutting it is impossible to get uniform
finished fabric.
 To prepare the pattern pieces for proper sewing.

12. Factors of quality cutting
 Precision of cut
 Clean edges
 Infused edges
 Support of the lay
 Consistent cutting

13. Methods of fabric cutting
 There are mainly three methods of fabric cutting:
1. Completely by manual: Hand operated scissors
2. Manually operated powered knife
3. Computerized technique

14. Types of Cutting Machines
 a. Straight knife
 b. Band blade
 c. Round blade
 d. Die cutter
 c. Laser cutting
 Computer controlled cutting m/c