stitching thread

1.  What is sewing thread?
Sewing thread is a yarn which is used to combine two or more fabric pieces in a
garment, its accessories, or other textile product.
It is specially designed and engineered to move through the sewing needle and
various components of the sewing machine smoothly and rapidly.
It is smooth, evenly spun, and hard twisted ply yarn with a specific finishing to do
the above.
Its main function is to form efficient stitches at the seams without breaking or
becoming distorted during the useful life of the product it is used in.
Sewing Thread

2. Sewing Thread

3. Sewing Thread
 Factors affecting the functions of sewing thread
 Factors affecting aesthetics:
The appearance of the thread in terms of color, lustre, fineness/thickness should be considered
while selecting a thread.
Apart from these shade matching, colour fastness, stitch selection and uniformity of stitch
formation affects the aesthetics of the stitch.
 Factors affecting the performance:
Thread performance in the garment can be evaluated from its
 Seam Strength
 Abrasion resistance
 Elasticity
 Chemical resistance
 Flammability
 Color fastness

4. Sewing Thread
 Properties of sewing thread
 Good tensile strength
The tensile strength should be higher than that of the fabric so that it won’t rupture
during the stretch at the seams.
 Smooth surface
without any abnormalities in the thread results in a minimum of friction between the
needle and sewing thread while sewing at high speed.
 Uniform thickness
of the sewing thread provides for smooth passage of the thread through the needle and
and the fabric.
 Good elasticity
facilitates the thread to recover its original length instantly after the tension has been
released. It should be similar to that of the fabric being sewn, thus the requirement for
woven and knitted fabric will be different.

5. Sewing Thread
 Properties of sewing thread
 Good color fastness
of the thread makes it resistant to the various chemical and physical agents the thread
is exposed to during manufacturing and during its useful life specially during washing,
perspiration, etc. This ensures no bleeding of the color into the garment.
 Lower shrinkage
characteristics of the thread are very important as it can cause a critical defect in the
garment in the form of puckering at the seams. Cotton thread usually undergoes
washing shrinkage while synthetic thread suffers from thermal shrinkage during ironing.

6. Sewing Thread
 Classification of sewing thread
Sewing thread can be classified in the following three ways:
 Substrate
 Construction
 Finish
 Classification based on substrate:
 Natural: Mostly cotton is used for sewing thread
 Synthetic: the sewing thread is made up of synthetic man-made fibers.
It is resistant to rot, mildew, insect, bacteria, and moisture.

7. Sewing Thread
 Classification of sewing thread
 Classification based on thread construction
 Spun threads:
They can be made from both natural as well as synthetic fibers.
Spun polyester is the most frequently used sewing thread in the garment.
Due to its hairy yarn surface, it provides better lubrication properties and a much
smoother hand. Also, its shrinkage is very low compared to a cotton thread. Its sewing
performance is also very good.
These are mostly used in seaming of shirts, trousers, knitwear, jackets, etc.
 1. Cotton threads
2. Linen thread
3. Silk thread
4. Spun synthetic –fibre threads
5. Spun blended sewing threads

8. Sewing Thread
 Core Spun Threads:
It is a mixture of both staple fibers and filaments. It is mostly used in topstitch of shirts,
blouses, trousers etc.
 Monofilament threads:
Monofilament sewing thread is produced from a single continuous fiber with a specific
fineness. These are mostly used in the sewing of hems, draperies, and upholstered
furniture.
 Multifilament thread:
These are mostly produced from nylon or polyester and are used where there is a
requirement of higher strength. It is mostly used in leather garments, shoes, and
industrial products.
 Embroidery threads:
These are mainly required for decorative purposes and thus color and luster are the two
two main requirements for embroidery thread.

9. Sewing Thread
 Classification base on the finishes
 The classification is done based on the type of finish applied over the thread.
These are being done for mainly two purposes:
 To enhance the sewability of the thread – Certain finishes improve the thread
strength, lubrication property, and abrasion resistance.
 To accomplish a specific functional requirement – these are special finishes such
as fire retardant, water repellent, anti-fungal, anti-static, etc which are coated
over the sewing thread.

10. Sewing Thread
 Sewing Thread Numbering System
 Sewing Thread number indicates the size or the thickness of the thread. Also
applicable for Embroidery Thread.
 Direct System : Weight of sewing thread per unit length . Here The length is
fixed. Hence higher the weight , thicker the thread. Therefore, higher the size
value in direct system , coarser or thicker the thread.
1) Tex: Weight of 1000 meter of thread expressed in gram.
 Gram per 1000 meter of theard.
 ‘40 Tex’ = weight of 1000 meter of thread is 40 gram
2) Denier : Weight of 9000 meter of thread expressed in gram.
 Gram per 9000 meter of thread.
 ‘200 Denier’ = weight of 9000 meter of thread is 200 gram.
 1 Denier = 9 Tex

11. Sewing Thread
 Sewing Thread Numbering System
3) Decitex : Weight of 10,000 meter of thread expressed in gram.
 Gram per 10,000 meter of theard.
 ‘400 DTex’ = weight of 10,000 meter of thread is 400 gram.
 Calculation in case of Plied sewing thread , in Direct system
 2/80 Tex = Two single yarns of 80 Tex each are plied together.
 Resultant Tex = 80 + 80 = 160 Gram
 If the number of ply is N , and the Size value in Direct system = S , then the
resultant Size = N x S .
 Calculation of Ticket Number in case of Direct system
 Ticket number in Direct System = 1000 x 3 /(Resultant Size in Direct system)
 For example 1000/Tex 40 x 3 = ticket 75.

12. Sewing Thread
 Sewing Thread Numbering System
Indirect System :
Number of unit length in a fixed weight. Here , weight is fixed.
Hence , higher the length value , finer is the thread .
 English Counting system : NE : Cotton Counting System : Number of 840 yards
present in 1 lb (pound) .
 40 NE : - 40 number of 840 yards is present in 1 pound of that thread . 80 NE :-
80 number of 840 yards is present in 1 pound of that thread .
Metric Counting System (NM) :- Number of 1 KM in 1 KG of that thread .
 40 NM = 40 KM of that thread makes the weight 1 Kg.
 80 NM = 80 KM of that thread makes the weight 1 Kg.
 HIGHER THE SIZE VALUE, FINER the thread.
 LOWER THE SIZE VALUE, COARSER / THICKER the thread

13. Sewing Thread
 Sewing Thread Numbering System
Calculation for Plied yarn in case of Indirect system.
 2/40 NE = Two single yarns of 40 NE each are plied together.
 Resultant count = 40 / 2 = 20 NE
 If the number of ply is N, and the Size value in Indirect system = S, then the
resultant Size = S / N
 NE = 590.6/TEX
TEX = 590.6/NE
Calculation of Ticket Number in case of INDirect system
 Ticket number in Indirect System = 3 x Resultant Size value in Indirect
system
 Ticket number of 2/60 NE = 3 x 30 = 90 TKT

14. Sewing Thread
Metric Ticket Number:
 Metric count or number is the system of ticket numbering. It is denoted by
Nm. This is the number of meters of thread per gram.
 For example, one gram of single ply thread is 60m long. So that count or
number of that thread is Nm 60/1. If the thread is double plied then metric
ticket numbers would be Nm 60/2 and also the weight is 2gm for 60m long
thread.
 Double plied means two numbers of single yarn twisted together ply yarn. in
the same way, metric ticket number (Nm) 90/3 means 3 single yarns are
twisted together to form a thread, where each 90m length of a single thread is
1gram and the weight of 90m length of 3 plied threads is 3 gram.
 Metric ticket numbering has done by using the below formula:
 Metric ticket number= Resultant count × 3
Metric number of
thread (Nm)
Metric ticket
number of thread (Tkt. No.)
80/2 120
80/4 60
60/1 180
60/2 90

15. Sewing Thread
Cotton ticket number:
Cotton ticket numbers are used for cotton sewing thread. It is denoted by
Ne.
For example, Ne 60/3 means sewing thread is 3 plied and the weight of
each ply of 60 hanks in 840yds is 1 pound.
Cotton ticket numbering has don by using the following equation:
Cotton ticket numbers= Resultant count × 3
Count of cotton thread (Ne) Cotton ticket numbers of thread (Tkt. No.)
40/2 60
40/3 40
40/4 30
60/2 90
60/3 60
60/4 45

16. Sewing Problems / Defects
 Common Sewing Problem with Causes and
Remedies:
Various types of sewing problem which arises during sewing the garments are-
1. Skipped stitches,
2. Unbalance stitch,
3. Staggered stitch,
4. Variable stitch density,
5. Seam puckering,
6. Bobbin or looper thread breakage,
7. Needle thread breakage,
8. Thread fusing when the sewing machine stops.

17. Sewing Problems / Defects
SKIPPED STITCHES
SL No. Causes Remedies
01 Failure of hook or looper and needle to enter
the loop at the correct time.
Examine the setting and timing
between needle and hook or looper.
02 Irregular thread tension on the upper or
lower loop.
The tension of the thread should be
adjusted.
03 Due to needle deflection. The needle should be changed.
04 If needle thread loop size is too small. Needle size and thread should be
adjusted.
05 When flagging of fabrics is happened
during sewing.
The pressure of the pressure foot should be
adjusted perfectly.
06 If the sewing thread is unable to form a loop. The thread should be changed.

18. Sewing Problems / Defects
UNBALANCE STITCHE
SL No. Causes Remedies
01 Incorrect tension of sewing thread. The setting of accurate tension to the
thread.
02 Used incorrect thread path. Using of accurate thread path.
03 Incorrect adjustment of needle thread path. Using of right thread path.
04 Snagging of the needle with bobbin case and
positioning finger.
Bobbin case to be smooth and finger
positioning to be set again.
05 If sewing threads are not lubricated. Better quality threads must be used here.

19. Sewing Problems / Defects
STAGGERED STITCH
SL No. Causes Remedies
01 Due to needle deflection. Needle size should be increased.
02 Due to the wrong needlepoint. The needle should be changed.
03 Incorrect adjustment of needle and
thread size.
Needle size and thread size should be
changed.
04 Due to defected motion of feed dog. Feed dog motion should be adjusted.
05 If fabrics are not controlled properly
in the feed mechanism.
Accurate pressure of the pressure foot
should be adjusted.

20. Sewing Problems / Defects
VARIABLE STITCH DENSITY
SL No. Causes Remedies
01 The incorrect unwinding of thread form
package during sewing.
The position of the thread guide should be
2.5 times higher than the position of
the thread package.
02 Twisting of needle thread in the bottom of
thread package.
A foam pad should use at the bottom of the
thread package.
03 Twisting of thread in thread guide. Correct threading of sewing thread during
sewing.
04 Excessive tension of the thread. The tension of the thread should be less or
the use of higher strength threads.
05 Using of broken check spring. Check spring should be changed.
06 Fraying of thread in the needle. Finer threads should be used or to be used
heavy needle.
07 Becoming more heated of sewing thread. Needle lubricant and needle cooler should
be used.
08 Becoming more heated of the hook. Lubricant should be available and test the
distance between needle and hook.
09 Using low-quality sewing thread. The sewing thread should be changed.

21. Sewing Problems / Defects
SEAM PUCKERING
SL No. Causes Remedies
01 Higher thread tension. Bobbin tension should be kept as low
as possible.
02 Improper thread balance. Proper thread balance should be
ensured between the top and bottom
thread.
03 Incorrect thread types. Have to maintain tension guides
properly.

22. Sewing Problems / Defects
BOBBIN OR LOOPER THREAD BREAKAGE
SL No. Causes Remedies
01 The incorrect winding of threads on to
the bobbin.
The proper winding of threads on to
the bobbin.
02 Excessive tension to the
bobbin threads.
The tension should be adjusted to the
bobbin threads.
03 If the edges bobbin case, looper eye,
and so on are more sharpened.
The edges should be smooth.
04 Incorrect fitting of the bobbin case. Test the size and types of the bobbin.

23. Sewing Problems / Defects
NEEDLE THREAD BREAKAGE
SL No. Causes Remedies
01 The incorrect winding of threads on
to the bobbin.
The proper winding of threads on to
the bobbin.
02 Excessive tension to the bobbin
threads.
The tension should be adjusted to the
bobbin threads.
03 If the edges bobbin case, looper eye,
and so on are more sharpened.
The edges should be smooth.
04 Incorrect fitting of the bobbin case. Test the size and types of the bobbin.

24. Sewing Problems / Defects
THREAD FUSING WHEN SEWING MACHINE STOPS
SL No. Causes Remedies
01 Faulty sewing thread. Should be used better quality thread.
02 The densely woven fabric is poorly
finished.
Should be improved fabric finishing.
03 Damaged needle after sewing thread
breakage.
Should be changed the needle.

25. Sewing Problems
 Problem 1
 NEEDLE THREAD BREAKAGE
Cause : Excessive tension in needle thread
Remedy: Use stronger thread or maintain proper tension by re-threading
 Problem 2
 STAGGERED STITCHING
Cause : Vibration in needle
Remedy: Check and Change appropriate needle

26. Sewing Problems
 Problem 3
 SKIPPED STITCHES
Cause : Failure of needle to enter in loop
Remedy: Check needle allignments and timings
 Problem 4
 BOBIN THREAD BREAKAGE
Cause : Sharp edges of bobin case
Remedy: Polish edges smoothly
 Problem 5
 SEWING DAMAGE
Refers to damage to fabric caused by the sewing needles of high-speed
Industrial machine

27. Sewing Machine needle size
 What Do The Numbers Mean For Sewing Machine
Needle Sizes?
 If you look at most needle packaging they will have 2
numbers on them with a / to divide them. For example,
80/12. The smaller number relates to the American size
system and ranges from 8 to 20, and the larger number
is for the European size system and ranges from 60 to
120.
 Machine Needle Sizes - In simple terms, the larger the number, the thicker
the sewing machine needle. Use smaller needle sizes on lightweight fabric
and larger sizes on heavyweight fabrics.

28. Sewing Machine needle size
 SEWING NEEDLE SIZES
• Size 8/60, 9/65, 10/70 - (Very fine fabrics) Use for fine silk, chiffon,
organza, voile and fine lace.
• Size 11/75, 12/80 - (Lightweight fabrics) Use for cotton voile, silk,
synthetics, spandex and lycra
• Size 14/90 - (Medium weight fabrics) Use for quilting fabrics, cotton,
velvet, fine corduroy, linen, muslin, jersey, tricot, knits, light wool,
sweatshirt knits, fleece.
• Size 16/100 - (Heavy weight fabrics) Use for Denim, corduroy,
canvas, heavy linens, heavy twill, duck, suiting and leather.
• Size 18/110 - (Very heavy fabrics) Use for heavy denim, heavy
canvas, upholstery fabric, faux fur