This document discusses different types of spinning systems used to process staple fibers into yarns. It describes the main types as ring spinning, compact spinning, open end spinning, and air jet spinning. For each type, it provides information on the typical yarn count ranges, fiber properties required, and basic processing steps. It also compares the production efficiency and quality differences between conventional and modern spinning systems. Finally, it discusses important factors to consider regarding fiber quality and its impact on yarn quality and production costs.

1. Spinning SystemsLearning the differences

2. What is spinning? The act or processing of converting staple or short lengths of fiber into continuous yarns.Dictionary.com

3. Most common types of spinning for apparel fabricsRing Spinning

4. Compact

5. Open End

6. Air jetProcessing TableConventional Fiber CP SynCarding x xDrawing x x*Lap wind x Combing x Drawing x xRoving x xSpinning x xWinding x xProcess 8 6Modern Fiber CP SynCarding x xDrawing x x*Lap wind xCombing xDrawing x xSpinning x xProcess 6 4

7. RovingYarn count ranges: 6’s to 250’sFibers: (1) Long (2) Fine (3) StrongRing Spinning

8. Yarn count range: 6’s to 250+Fibers: (1) Long (2) Fine (3) StrongRovingairPerforated DrumCompact Spinning

9. Yarn StructureCompactRing Spun - SiroRing Spun

10. Ringspun yarnSwissCotton RoyalConventional Ring Spun Versus Siro

11. Why Royal Spun?Very good pilling values and durability (Pilling (Martindale) improved by 1.0 to 1.5 grades)

12. Less surface hairiness, clear mesh structure

13. Excellent evenness of knit fabrics

14. Less fiber accumulations knitted into the fabric

15. Luster

16. Great alternative to plied yarns

17. Less energy

18. Softer than plied yarns

19. More economical than plied yarnsModern systems are typical “Sliver to Yarn” systemLess Processing !!!Refer to Slide 4

20. Open End - Schlafhorst

21. Open End - Rieter

22. Typical yarn count range: 6’s to 30’sFibers: (1) Fine (2) Strong (length is not as important as ring spinning)RotorYarn PackageFeed RollSliverCondenserTransport Air ChannelVdf, MfSliverCombing RollFeed PlateTrashOpen End Rotor Spinning

23. Typical yarn count range: 20’s to 60’sFibers: (1) Long (2) Strong (length is not as important as ring spinning)Main DraftBack RollerbMiddle RollerApron PressureHFront RollerkN1N2Spinning TensionWrapping FibersParallel FibersCore of Murata Air Jet Spinning

24. Open End Spinning

25. Murata Vortex

26. Rieter Air JetStill very new in the market…

27. RovingSpinning Efficiency and Endsdown:Key Fiber Properties by the order of importance:Main DraftRotorYarn PackageBack RollerbMiddle RollerApron PressureHFront RollerFeed RollkN1SliverCondenserTransport Air ChannelVdfN2Spinning Tension, MfFibersWrapping SliverShort Fiber lengthTrash content Roving twist levelTrash contentShort Fiber content Sliver UniformityTrash contentShort Fiber ContentSliver UniformityCombing RollParallel FibersCore of Feed PlateTrashFiber Quality Impact

28. Energy Comparison

29. Different Yarn Counts = Different Quality LevelsDo all yarns within the same spinning system require the same type and quality of fibers?

30. FQI Upland Cotton ELS Cotton Min 3.0 10.0Max 10.0 15.0FL = HVI Fiber Length (inch)FS = HVI Fiber Strength (g/tex)Mic = MicronaireFiber Quality Index (FQI)

31. Different Yarn Counts Require Different Fiber Indexes

32. Fiber Quality Index vs. Yarn Count-Ring Spun & Rotor Spun Carded Yarns

33. Fiber Quality Index VS Yarn Count-Ring Spun & Compact Combed Yarn

34. Different Cotton canResult in substantial difference in Quality and CostIs Cotton just Cotton or a Different Cotton can Make a World of Difference?

35. Ranking By Category

36. What questions should I ask?There are literally hundreds of variables in the spinning process which influence the outcome of fabric and garments.

37. Fiber RelatedWhere is the source of fiber?Do you have a relationship with the fiber producer and spinner?What are the parameters in which the spinner purchases the fiber?Does the fiber perform to expectations in relation to yarn count and fabric properties?How is my garment impacted by fiber cost?

38. Machine RelatedDo you have a relationship with the machine manufacturer?What are the machine’s unique features?Does the manufacturer of the machines offer excellent service, adequate training, and able to respond quickly to parts and repair needs?

39. Supply Chain RelatedIs the spinner willing to partner with you and your the supply chain to improve the quality and performance of fabrics?Same goes with the machinery manufacturer?Will your fabric supplier be open to the idea of you stating the spinner you want to use?There may be bonds which need to be broken for this to happen..

40. CreditsDr. Yehia El-Mogahzy,Auburn Universityyehiae@eng.auburn.eduRob Beal, Oerlikonrob.beals@oerlikon.comMark Lingerfelt, Muratecmlingerfelt@muratec-usa.comHans Rothen, RieterHans.rothen@rieter.com