Spinning SystemsLearning the differences
What is spinning?    The act or processing of converting staple or short lengths of fiber into continuous yarns.Dictionary.com
Most common types of spinning for apparel fabricsRing Spinning
Compact
Open End
Air jetProcessing TableConventional   Fiber	CP	SynCarding	x	xDrawing	x	x*Lap wind	x	Combing	x	Drawing	x	xRoving	x	xSpinning	x	xWinding	x	xProcess	8	6Modern   Fiber	CP	SynCarding	x	xDrawing	x	x*Lap wind	xCombing	xDrawing	x	xSpinning	x	xProcess	6	4
RovingYarn count ranges: 6’s to 250’sFibers: (1) Long  (2) Fine  (3) StrongRing Spinning
Yarn count range: 6’s to 250+Fibers: (1) Long   (2) Fine   (3) StrongRovingairPerforated DrumCompact Spinning
Yarn StructureCompactRing Spun - SiroRing Spun
Ringspun yarnSwissCotton RoyalConventional Ring Spun Versus Siro
Why Royal Spun?Very good pilling values and durability (Pilling (Martindale) improved by 1.0 to 1.5 grades)
Less surface hairiness, clear mesh structure
Excellent evenness of knit fabrics
Less fiber accumulations knitted into the fabric
Luster
Great alternative to plied yarns
Less energy
Softer than plied yarns
More economical than plied yarnsModern systems are typical “Sliver to Yarn” systemLess Processing !!!Refer to Slide 4
Open End - Schlafhorst
Open End - Rieter
Typical yarn count range: 6’s to 30’sFibers: (1) Fine (2) Strong (length is not as important as ring spinning)RotorYarn PackageFeed RollSliverCondenserTransport Air ChannelVdf, MfSliverCombing RollFeed PlateTrashOpen End Rotor Spinning
Typical yarn count range: 20’s to 60’sFibers: (1) Long  (2) Strong (length is not as important as ring spinning)Main DraftBack RollerbMiddle RollerApron PressureHFront RollerkN1N2Spinning TensionWrapping FibersParallel FibersCore of Murata Air Jet Spinning
Open End Spinning
Murata Vortex
Rieter Air JetStill very new in the market…
RovingSpinning Efficiency and Endsdown:Key Fiber Properties by the order of importance:Main DraftRotorYarn PackageBack RollerbMiddle RollerApron PressureHFront RollerFeed RollkN1SliverCondenserTransport Air ChannelVdfN2Spinning Tension, MfFibersWrapping SliverShort Fiber lengthTrash content Roving twist levelTrash contentShort Fiber content Sliver UniformityTrash contentShort Fiber ContentSliver UniformityCombing RollParallel FibersCore of Feed PlateTrashFiber Quality Impact
Energy Comparison
Different Yarn Counts = Different Quality LevelsDo all yarns within the same spinning system require the same type and quality of fibers?
FQI		Upland Cotton		ELS Cotton	Min			3.0		10.0Max			10.0		15.0FL = HVI Fiber Length (inch)FS = HVI Fiber Strength (g/tex)Mic = MicronaireFiber Quality Index (FQI)
Different Yarn Counts Require Different Fiber Indexes

Spinning Systems

Editor's Notes

  • #2 1:00 PM Innovations in Knitwear: Yarn Spinning David Sasso, Vice President of Sales, Buhler Yarns – Jefferson, GA, USA Learn the differences between open-end, ring-spun, compact, and air-jet spinning from a knitting industry veteran of 25 years. How do these spinning techniques impact price, torquing, pilling,and strength? What are some new technologies in the yarn market? Learn to ask the right questions of your suppliers to get the knit fabric to meet your expectations.
  • #3 The act or process of converting staple or short lengths of fiber into continuous yarn.”
  • #5 * - Some manufacturers do 2 or 3 process drawing to achieve maximum blending, fiber parallel, and silver mass uniformity (CVm). Also, many companies have equipment to do a intimate blend. By this, the fibers are blended prior to carding.
  • #7 Compact spinning requires more maintenance and energythan conventional ring spun mainly because the fibers are compacted by using suction through the perforated drum. If the holes get clogged, then the yarn is not compacted. This would show up as a form of barre in the fabric. There are detection devices called clearers which can look for an increase of yarn hairiness and/or yarn diameter.
  • #9 There is another type spinning technology in the ring spun category which is called Siro. Explain the advantages of a siro.
  • #31 So many companiesstop short of