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Apparel wash & Finishing Azmir Latif ,MSc Engr.(Textile)
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Introduction:
Wrinkle free resin finishing is a process to apply chemical resin onto fabrics functioning
crosslinking between hydrogen bonds in order to enhance stability, on other words, fabrics
are prevent to wrinkling. The ability of a fabric to recover to a definite degree is called crease
recovery of the fabric.Tendency of fabrics made by cellulose, regenerated cellulose and blends
with synthetic fibers to wrinkle after washing, tumble drying and wearing are higher. Today
everybody wishes for that his/her dress retains just ironed shape. Wrinkle free finishes
provide wrinkle free and soft look fabric. Wrinkle free finishes are broadly used in the textile
industry to impart wrinkle-resistance to cellulosic materials such as cotton fabric. Cellulosic
fiber-containing fabrics are made wrinkle resistant by a durable press wrinkle-free process
which comprises treating a cellulosic fiber-containing fabric with formaldehyde, a catalyst
capable of catalyzing the crosslinking reaction between the formaldehyde and cellulose and a
silicone elastomer, heat-curing the treated cellulose fiber-containing fabric, preferably having
a moisture content of more than 20% by weight, under conditions at which formaldehyde
reacts with cellulose in the presence of the catalyst without a substantial loss of formaldehyde
before the reaction of the formaldehyde with cellulose to improve the wrinkle resistance of
the fabric in the presence of a silicone elastomeric softener to provide higher wrinkle
resistance, and better tear strength after washing, with less treatment.[2] The application of
wrinkle resistance (permanent or durable press) finishes on the fabric improves their wrinkle
resistance property. Because of increasing demand for pure cotton fabrics, permanent press
finishes are being used on these clothes. In conventional durable press finishing, there are
two types of products used (resin type and reactant type). Both of these products contain
formaldehyde which cause human carcinogen. Hence durable press finishes free of
formaldehyde with trade names;Texicil DC, Knittex RCT, Arkofix NEC and Arkofix ELF
(Dihydroxi ethylene urea and Demethyldihydroxi urea) were used in this research study. The
present work endeavors to optimize the application of these wrinkle free finishes at various
concentrations trying different techniques of applying these finishes on pure cotton fabric for
best manufacturing results. The results revealed that the finish Arkofix ELF and Arkofix NEC
showed superior results at the concentration level 120 g/l under Pad-flash –cure method of
application for the wrinkle free property of the fabric.[1]
[3]
Apparel wash & Finishing Azmir Latif ,MSc Engr.(Textile)
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Objective of wrinkle resistance finish
The main objectives of wrinkle finish keep the fabric flat and smooth and free from
undesirable creases.[9]
 It makes apparel easy to use, wash and iron.
Disadvantage:
[9]
Resinsfallintotwogroup
 Depositiontypesofresin(Depositedonthefabricassurfacecoating.Noreactionwilltake
placebetweenfiber&resin)
 Crosslinkingtypeofresin(Chemicallyreactwiththefiberandcrosslinkfibermolecules
alsoobtaineddurable&better)
Types of Resins(according to chemical)
 Formaldehyde based resins
Crosslinking resins are divided into two categories formaldehyde based and non-
formaldehyde based.
[9]
 Non-formaldehyde based resins
Non-formaldehyde based resins are made to favour customers towards the harmful and
fatal chemicals.[5] e.g.N,N-Dimethyl-4,5-dihydroxyethylene urea (DMeDHEU/DMUG,
1,2,3,4-Butanetetracarboxylic acid (BTCA), Citric acid (CA), Polycarboxylic acid
Phosphono and phosphinocarboxylic acids (APCM), Ter-polymer (TPMA), 1,3-
dihydroxyl-4,5-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone (DHDMI).[5]
Apparel wash & Finishing Azmir Latif ,MSc Engr.(Textile)
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Process sequence
Padding (Apply resin)
Drying by Dryer
Curing
Washing
[9]
Study on Resin wrinkle resistance finishing [4]
Resin or wrinkle free finishing is widely used in the textile industry to impart wrinkle-
resistance to cotton fabrics and garments. Considerable loss in strength and abrasion
resistance of the finished fabrics has been a major concern for the industry. Enhancing
dimensional stability and wrinkle resistance with resin finishing of cotton has constantly
been correlated with lower abrasion resistance and tear strength. The strength of the fibre
depends on how much the cross-linked chains can still be mutually displaced under tension
in order to sufficiently resist the applied load. The rigid cross-links that are formed with the
DMDHEU obviously prevent the redistribution of stress by preventing movement within the
fibre microstructure. The cross-linking of cellulose molecules with these relatively rigid cross-
links causes stiffening of the cellulosic macromolecular network and fibre embitterment, thus
dropping the mechanical strength of the treated cotton fabrics. These same mechanisms are
responsible for reduced mechanical properties of the fibre surface, thus leading to strength
loss. Fibre surface property alteration, such as through the use of softeners, has been shown
to play an important task in minimizing strength loss. [4]
Apparel wash & Finishing Azmir Latif ,MSc Engr.(Textile)
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The mixture of inadequate scratch resistance and relatively severe tensile and tear strength
loss has been a major disadvantage for resin finished 100% cotton fabrics. The objectives of
this work are to investigate the cause and mechanism of loss in abrasion resistance of cross
linked cotton fabrics; relationships between the molecular structure of cross-linking agents
and their effect on the mechanical properties of cross-linked textile structures; and develop a
technology for improving the tear strength of resin finished cotton fabrics by adding special
silicones. [4]
Tear and Tensile Resistance
An overwhelming majority of durable press finishing agents used today are formaldehyde
based reagents, such as dimethyloldihydroxyethyleneurea (DMDHEU) and modified
DMDHEU, with magnesium chloride as a catalyst.
The following summarizes some of the important aspects so far:
1. The catalysts used for DMDHEU systems, such as magnesium chloride, cause
degradation of cellulose, thus reducing the tensile and tear strength of cotton fabric.
The magnitude of fabric strength loss is affected by temperature, time, and
concentration of the catalyst. Fabric strength loss also depends on both the cation
and anion of the catalyst. An activated catalyst system, which includes an organic
acid, causes more severe fabric tensile strength loss.[4]
2. Tensile strength loss of cotton fabric treated with DMDHEU is due to both the cross-
linking of cellulose and the degradation of cellulose caused by the catalyst. Because a
catalyst system plays such an important role in influencing the strength loss of
cotton fabrics cross-linked by DMDHEU, the selection of the catalyst system and its
concentration is crucial for optimizing the tensile strength retention of the finished
fabrics.[4]
3. DMDHEU can be removed from the finished fabric by using an alkali treatment, as
evidenced by the decrease in wrinkle recovery angle with removal. The fabric
strength gradually increases as the hydrolysis of the cross-linked fabric progresses,
indicating that the fabric strength loss due to cross-linking the cellulose molecules is
Apparel wash & Finishing Azmir Latif ,MSc Engr.(Textile)
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reversible and that it can be restored by removing the cross-links. The remainder of
the strength loss, which has been described as being due to acid-induced de-
polymerization, is permanent and is not reversible upon hydrolysis of the cross-
links.[4]
Experimental
Materials: 100% cotton shirting fabric, GSM of 133 is used for applications.
Application by padding
Liquor pick up: 70%
pH: 4-5
Dry: as usual
Cure: 150C for 3 minutes
Guideline Recipes
1.Shirting Fabrics
Commercial DMDHEU: 40-60 g/l
MgCl2: 8-12 g/l
2.ResilInnocelle FSS: 0.5-3%
3.ResilUltrafab EMS: 0.5-3% + ResilInnocelle FSS: 0.5-3%
4.ResilLFR : 40-60 g/l
MgCl2 : 8-12 g/l
ResilUltrafabEMS : 10-30 g/l
ResilInnocelle FSS v : 10-30 g/l
Apparel wash & Finishing Azmir Latif ,MSc Engr.(Textile)
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Effect of Amino Silicone on the Strength Properties of Cotton Shirting Fabric [4]
In order to maintain the desired physical properties of finished fabrics and garments, fabric
softeners are frequently used in resin treatment. In a conventional process polyethylene is the
most commonly used additive in durable press finish formulations. Low-amino modified
polysiloxane gives better strength improvement than polyethylene emulsions [4]
Effect of Combination of Low-amino Modified Silicone and Semi-macro
Silicones on the Strength Properties of Cotton Shirting Fabric [4]
Low-amino modified polysiloxane combined with a blend of amino modified polysiloxane
and hydroxy terminated polysiloxane show better strength improvement than polyethylene
emulsions or amino silicones. [4]
Apparel wash & Finishing Azmir Latif ,MSc Engr.(Textile)
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Effects of Amino Modified Polyethylene Based Polymer Silicone Softeners and
Semi-macro on the Mechanical Properties of Cotton Shirting Fabric Cross-
linked by DMDHEU[4]
Strength loss%
CRA
DP RATING
Apparel wash & Finishing Azmir Latif ,MSc Engr.(Textile)
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Test result
Results indicate enhancement in fabric resiliency and softness as well as decrease in fabric
strength. The use of low amino modified polysiloxane combined with a blend of amino
modified polysiloxane and hydroxy terminated polysiloxane as an additive minimises
strength loss of the cotton fabric with improvement in softness because of treatment with
resin and catalyst, without creating negative effects on the wrinkle resistance of the fabric.[4]
The Effect of Wrinkle-free Treatment on Fabric Tear
Strength and Dynamic Water Absorbency [6]
Two groups of fabric samples: six 100% cotton twill fabrics with different level of wrinklefree
treatment, and six 100% cotton twill fabrics without wrinkle-free treatment were
experimentally studied. These fabrics were tested in terms of nitrogen content, swelling index
(water retention), tear strength and dynamic water absorption rate. The nitrogen content was
considered as a probably better indicator of the level of wrinkle-free treatment than the
swelling index (water retention) commonly used in the industry. In this work, the
relationship between the nitrogen content and swelling index (water retention) were studied.
The effects of nitrogen content and swelling index (water retention) on the tear strength and
the dynamic water absorbency were investigated. [6]
The results showed that
(1) The swelling index (water retention) has a strong linear relationship with the total
nitrogen content in the fabric. The higher nitrogen content, the lower the swelling
index (water retention).
(2) The fabric tear strength is highly correlated with the total nitrogen content or the
swelling index (water retention). High nitrogen content or low swelling index (water
retention), which may be resulted from the wrinkle-free treatment, causes low tear
strength.
(3) High nitrogen content or low swelling index (water retention) reduces the water
absorption rate of the fabric and increases the contact angle when the water drop is in
initial contact of the fabric.
A conventional wrinkle-free finish is Dimethylodihydroxy-ethyleneurea (DMDHEU). The
crosslinking resin crosslinked with fibre and the result of such crosslinking reaction form
Apparel wash & Finishing Azmir Latif ,MSc Engr.(Textile)
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fibres bonded together. As a result, fabric has increased wrinkle-resistant, wrinkle recovery,
dimensional stability and shape retention [6].
One coin has two sides; crosslinking resin also has some drawback. Previous studies provide
a general understanding of the effect of wrinkle-free treatment of fabric properties. For
example, the treatment can reduce tear strength, tensile strength, abrasion resistance, make a
fabric harsher and reduce a natural cotton hand. Although, there is some general
understanding on the topic, no systematic research was done in the past in this area .
The objective of this project is to investigate the effect of different levels of wrinkle-free
treatment, on fabric properties important to durability and comfort.[6]
SAMPLES
There are two groups of the samples for this study: Six 100% cotton twill fabrics (fabric
density per inch is 108x56, yarn count (Nec) is 16x12) with different level of wrinkle-free
treatment, and six 100% cotton twill fabrics (fabric density per inch is 108x56, yarn count
(Nec) is 16x12) without wrinkle-free treatment. The details are as follows:
TEST METHODS
For testing the effect of wrinkle-free treatment to fabric properties related to durability and
clothing comfort, the following methods were used:
 Kjeldahl’s Method:
Crosslinking molecule consists of nitrogen atoms and those cannot be found in cellulose
molecule. The level of nitrogen content may relate to the level of wrinkle-free treatment. To
measure the nitrogen content of a fabric, the Kjeldahl’s Method was used.
The fibre molecule is decomposed from organic molecule to inorganic molecule by digestion.
The nitrogen content is calculated after the procedures of distillation and titration.
 Contact Angle Meter (Model CAM-MICRO):
This set of equipment was used to measure the dynamic water absorptivity of fabric surface,
Apparel wash & Finishing Azmir Latif ,MSc Engr.(Textile)
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i.e. water drop on the wrong side of a fabric. The contact angle diameter of the water drop is
recorded by a high-speed digital camera.
 Tear Strength (ASTM D1424-96)
For testing the fabric durability, tear strength (ASTM D1424-96) was conducted. Both warp
and weft of specimens were tested.
 Swelling index (water retention)
Wrinkle-free finish reduces the moisture sorption capacity of a fabric. Therefore, the
industry uses swelling index (water retention) as an indicator of wrinkle-free treatment level.
While carrying the test, fabric samples are dipped with different period of time and calculate
the percentage of moisture retentivity by the variance of the damp weight divided by fabric
weight. [6]
RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
Figure 1 plots the relationship between nitrogen content and swelling index (water retention).
It can be seen that the swelling index (water retention) has a strong linear relationship with
the total nitrogen content in the fabric. The higher nitrogen content, the lower the swelling
index (water retention). The square correlation coefficient is 0.7199. Crosslinking molecule
consists of nitrogen atoms those cannot be found in cellulose molecule. Therefore, the testing
of nitrogen content in wrinkle-free treatment has been conducted. It is for the purpose of
investigating the relationship between nitrogen content and swelling index (water retention),
to test if nitrogen content can replace to swelling index (water retention) as an indicator of
the treatment level. The result showed that there is a linear relationship between swelling
index (water retention) and nitrogen content. Thus, it may be said that increase in nitrogen
content may intake higher level of wrinkle-free treatment. [6]
Figure 1: The Relationship between Nitrogen Content and Swelling index (water retention)
Figure 2 plots the relationship between nitrogen content and tear strength. It can be seen
that fabric tear strength is highly correlated with the total nitrogen content or swelling index
Apparel wash & Finishing Azmir Latif ,MSc Engr.(Textile)
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(water retention). The R² is 0.527. High nitrogen content or low swelling index (water
retention), which may be resulted from the wrinkle-free treatment, causes low tear strength.
The cellulose of cotton is an active chemical, and its character and behaviour can be altered
by chemical treatment [7]. Wrinkle-free treatment can tender a fabric strength as the
treatment is composed of crosslinking resin, catalysts which is to initiate the crosslinking
action, softening agent which is to maintain the fabric quality and wetting agent which is to
increase the speed of penetration of the finish into a fabric. Cotton is a fibre that is easily
tendered by acid [8]. The catalyst in wrinkle-free treatment is an acid, it is a reason why a
fabric strength is decreased after wrinkle-free treatment. In addition, the wetting agent has a
highly density polyethylene which restores some of the lost tear strength and abrasion
resistance by providing lubrication. High nitrogen content or low swelling index (water
retention) reduces the water absorption rate of the fabric and increases the contact angle
when the water drop is in initial contact of the fabric. (Figure 3 & 4)
Figure 3 shows the relationship between nitrogen content and water absorption time. It can
be divided into two categories. The first category is the samples before wrinkle-free
treatment (♦). The second is after wrinkle-free treatment samples (▲). It can be observed
that in the category of before wrinkle-free treatment, the increased in nitrogen content has
similar water absorption time. It can reflect that nitrogen in dyestuff may not affect water
Apparel wash & Finishing Azmir Latif ,MSc Engr.(Textile)
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absorption. On the other hand, in the after wrinkle-free finish samples, it can be found that
the nitrogen in wrinkle-free treatment can affect water absorption, the higher the nitrogen
content, the longer the water absorption time. However, some of the samples are not on the
trendline. It may because other parameters can affect the results. The samples those were
taken can affect the result. The distribution of wrinkle-free treatment is one of the parameter.
Besides, other finishing that the samples were applied can also affect the results.[6]
Figure 4 shows the relationship between nitrogen content and contact angle. The higher the
contact angle the poorer the water absorption. The R² is 0.6444. Cotton is mainly composed
of cellulose. When cotton is treated with acid under certain conditions it is converted into the
sugar glucose. This reaction provides a key to the structure of cellulose. Cotton molecule
consists of hydrogen atoms those can absorb water. The chemical formula is [C6H12O6]n.
There is a ring composed of five carbon atoms and one oxygen atom, the chemical name for
this is the pyranose ring. There are two types of molecule. Crystalline regions are some
orderly arrangement of molecules. Amorphous regions are the disordered zones. The
amorphous regions are the important sites for many of the typical reactions of the cotton
fibre. The uptake of water by cotton from a moist atmosphere ~ its moisture regain (7-8%
under a standard condition) ~ which is partly due to hydrogen bonding between water
molecule and hydroxyl groups in the cellulose, is believed occur only in the amorphous
regions. The introduction of water molecules into this non-rigid part of the structure pushes
the individual cellulose molecules still further apart, and produces that swelling of the fibre
which characteristically accompanies its absorption of water. However, after wrinkle-free
finish, some of the hydrogen atoms of a fibre are occupied by crosslinking resin which can
diminish fabric water absorption rate. Moreover, softening is a hydrophobic finish which can
also affect the water absorption. [6]
Result analysis
According to the testing results, it can be concluded that:
 There was a close relationship between nitrogen content and swelling index (water
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retention). Swelling index (water retention) is a good indicator of wrinkle-free
treatment level, as good as the nitrogen content, which is more time-consuming and
difficult to measure.
 Wrinkle-free treatment can tender fabric tear strength. The level of wrinkle-free
treatment can affect the fabric tear strength, the higher level of the treatment, the
lower the tear strength .Other factors can also affect the fabric strength such as yarn
formation and fabric structure.
 Wrinkle-free treatment can deteriorate water absorption rate. The higher level of
wrinklefree treatment, the poor the water absorption rate and the longer the water
absorption time.[6]
Effect of wrinkle resistance finish on cotton fabric properties [7]
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[7]
Effect of crease resistant finish on crease recovery
properties of cotton fabric [8]
MATERIAL AND METHODS
For the application of crease resistant finish the pure grey cotton fabric was purchased. It has
fabric count 50 ends and 49 picks, 103.6 g/m2 weight per unit area with 0.31 mm thickness.
Then it was given scouring pre-treatment to remove the vegetative impurities from the grey
fabric. The scouring the grey cotton fabric was done by sodium hydroxide for two hours. After
scouring the fabric count of the fabric increased while the weight per unit area and thickness
of the fabric decreased. fabric count became 52 ends × 51 picks ,weight per unit area changed
into 100.8 g/m2 having 0.29 mm thickness. Chitosan with 82% degree of deacetylation was
purchased from Indian sea Food Company for application of finish. Citric acid, catalyst and
silicon softener were also used along with chitosan. After optimizing the standard
concentrations of chemicals and conditions the finish was applied on the scoured cotton
fabric. The crease resistant finish was applied on scoured cotton fabric by using pad dry cure
method after standardizing different conditions and concentrations of chemicals. Each cotton
sample was first impregnated in a solution containing the citric acid as crosslinking agent
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(10%), chitosan (4%), silicon softener and di-sodium hypophosphite in 6% as standardized
proportion. Then the impregnated fabric sample was pressed between the squeezing rollers
of the padding mangle machine. The pressure of 2kg/cm was maintained and 70 % - 75 %
expressions was achieved. The samples were dried at 1000C for 4min and cured in an oven at
a specified temperature (1700C) for a specified time (3min). Following are the standard
concentrations and conditions used to apply finish on scoured fabric.[8]
RESULTS
After application of crease resistant finish on the scoured cotton fabric, the crease recovery
angle of the fabric was measured to see the effect on crease resistant finish on the crease
recovery characteristics of the treated fabric.
Assessment of Crease Recovery Characteristics
After applying the crease resistant finish on the scoured fabric following the standardized
conditions. The crease recovery characteristics of fabrics were assessed. Crease recovery
characteristics of scoured and treated fabrics were assessed. It is evident from the Table 2
that when the crease resistant finish was applied on scoured cotton fabric. Treated fabric
showed the increase in the crease recovery angle in warp 106 ± 1.14 degree and 105.0 ± 0.83
degree weft directions as compared to the scoured cotton fabric (control) which had 85.4
±1.25 degree crease recovery angles at warp and 83.8 ± 0.73degree in the weft direction. The
fabric crease recovery was 84.54% and after application of finish it became 104.04%.[8]
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Due to the presence of citric acid and chitosan crosslinking bonds formed. These bonds
require maximum amount of energy to break these bonds. These bonds keep the cellulose
molecules in to their respective position. Thus it resists the breakage and slippage of the
cellulose molecules. It results in increase in the crease recovery angle. The results of Daniela
Enescu (2008) supported the study that durable press and antimicrobial finishing of cotton
with citric acid by the conventional pad-dry-cure process, improved the crease recovery
angle. [8]
Efficacy of Applied Finish of Different Fabrics
The effectiveness of the finish was assessed in terms of crease recovery angle; fabric crease
recovery and rate of bacterial reduction. To determine the efficacy of crease recovery finish of
laundered fabric. The treated fabrics were subjected to different laundering cycles (5, 10, 15
and 20) keeping in mind different parameters.[8]
Efficacy of Crease Resistant Finish on Crease Recovery Characteristics
Crease recovery properties were studied after passing the finished fabrics under different
laundering cycles. Crease recovery angle and fabric crease recovery was detected on treated
fabric subjected to different laundering cycles. It is evident from the Table 3 and Figure 3 that
when the crease resistant finished treated fabric was given five laundering cycles, there was
decrease in the crease recovery angle in warp and weft direction 100.2± 0.80 degree and
99.4± 0.51degree respectively after 5 laundering cycles with fabric crease recovery was 99.6
percent.[8]
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It was found that there was progressive decrease in the crease recovery angle when the
number of laundering cycles increased from 5 to 20, the crease recovery angle was 90.2±1.68
degree and 89.2±0.86 degree for the warp and weft direction respectively and percent fabric
crease recovery was 89.5 percent. When the change in the crease recovery angle of the
laundered treated fabric was compared with the treated fabric (control), the percent
reduction in the crease recovery angle was from 5.40 percent to 14.97 percent when fabric
was subjected to laundering from 5 to 10 laundering cycles respectively. It was found that the
fabric crease recovery decreases with the progressive laundering cycles. This may be due to
that with progressive laundering cycles the crease resistant finish removes gradually by the
rubbing and friction movement caused during laundering process. The results of the study
were in line with. Yang (1997) experimented with the durable press finish on cotton fabric.
The different number of laundering cycles was given to evaluate the durability of finish to
laundering he found that the sample treated with citric acid and it was found that the crease
recovery angle decreased with increase in laundering cycles. Sung Huang Hsieh et al. (2006)
also found that the anti-wrinkle property of treated fabrics is decreased after laundering 20
times; the softness of the fabric was improved. [8]
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Result analysis
It is concluded from the results that the crease resistance finish showed the good resistant
against wrinkle formation. It was found that there was increase in the crease recovery angle
of the fabric after application of crease resistant finish. It proves that the chitosan with the
citric acid shows the good results against crease formation and it also showed maximum
retention of the finish by maintaining the satisfactory crease recovery angle after 20 washing
cycles. [8]
Summary of above all review articles
A Study on wrinkle resistance finish by resin on cotton fabric properties we
summarize that Resin finishing is the process of bringing out a special property
of ‘crease recovery’ of cotton. Resin finishing often known by various fancy
terminologies is an important process of textile processing. Wrinkle free finish quite
often called ‘wash & wear finish/anticrease finish/crease resistance finish/durable
press finish/ Resin finishing’. It has been that all kind of finishing process
significantly affect fiber charecteristics. Finish processes applied to the fabrics lead to
increased fabric cost. The cost can be minimized by selecting fiber, yarn, fabric with high
wrinkle resistance charecteristies before applying a crease resistance. Anti wrinkle finish
operation is generally applied to fabrics for clothing. With the application of this operation,
while wrinkle strength and pilling perforance increase, the tensile and tearing strength of the
fabric decrease. So, anti-wrinkle finsh operation will be important in hoding stated fabic
properties in optimum. Another research shows that it was found the Efficacy of Crease
Resistant on cotton fabric Finish on Crease Recovery Characteristics is decrease over its use
and laundering. Crease recovery angle and fabric crease recovery was detected on treated
fabric subjected to different laundering cycles.. After application of crease resistant finish on
the scoured cotton fabric, the crease recovery angle of the fabric was measured to see the
effect on crease resistant finish on the crease recovery characteristics of the treated fabric.
It is concluded from the results that the crease resistance finish showed the good resistant
against wrinkle formation. It was found that there was increase in the crease recovery angle
of the fabric after application of crease resistant finish. It proves that the chitosan with the
citric acid shows the good results against crease formation and it also showed maximum
retention of the finish by maintaining the satisfactory crease recovery angle after 20 washing
cycles. In other research on Wrinkle-free Treatment on Fabric Tear Strength and
Dynamic Water Absorbency Wrinkle-free treatment also affect fabric tear strength. The level
of wrinkle-free treatment can affect the fabric tear strength, the higher level of the treatment,
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the lower the tear strength .Other factors can also affect the fabric strength such as yarn
formation and fabric structure. Wrinkle-free finish reduces the moisture sorption capacity of
a fabric. Therefore, the industry uses swelling index (water retention) as an indicator of
wrinkle-free treatment level. While carrying the test, fabric samples are dipped with different
period of time and calculate the percentage of moisture retentivity by the variance of the
damp weight divided by fabric weight. High nitrogen content or low swelling index (water
retention) reduces the water absorption rate of the fabric and increases the contact angle
when the water drop is in initial contact of the fabric. A Study on Resin wrinkle
resistance finishing shows that the catalysts used for DMDHEU systems, such as
magnesium chloride, cause degradation of cellulose, thus reducing the tensile and tear
strength of cotton fabric. The magnitude of fabric strength loss is affected by temperature,
time, and concentration of the catalyst. Fabric strength loss also depends on both the cation
and anion of the catalyst. An activated catalyst system, which includes an organic acid, causes
more severe fabric tensile strength loss. By analyzing different resin finishing treatment, if we
apply Low-amino modified polysiloxane combined with a blend of amino modified
polysiloxane and hydroxy terminated polysiloxane show better strength improvement than
polyethylene emulsions or amino silicones. Any kind of resin finishing treatment
increase strength and pilling perforance, the tensile and tearing strength of the
fabric decrease and also reduces the water absorption rate of the fabric and
increases the contact angle when the water drop is in initial contact of the
fabric. In table 2 (chareteristic of fabrics) already shows how fabric properties
affect by wrinkle resistance finish.Finally we say it enhancement in fabric
resiliency and softness as well as decrease in fabric abrasion resistance, tear
and tensile strength and also make the fabric harsh and stiff. Try to avoid
DMDHEU systems, such as magnesium chloride, cause degradation of cellulose,
thus reducing the tensile and tear strength of cotton fabric. The use of low
amino modified polysiloxane combined with a blend of amino modified
polysiloxane and hydroxy terminated polysiloxane as an additive minimizes
strength loss of the cotton fabric with improvement in softness because of
treatment with resin and catalyst, without creating negative effects on the
wrinkle resistance of the fabric.
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Conclusion
Benefits from wrinkle free resin finishing are tremendous including: handle and fabric weight
transformation, less care involvement, wrinkle elimination, wrinkle recovery in usage,
wrinkling minimization after washing and drying, undesirable fold and creases reduction,
fabric smoothness and dimensional stability. Cotton is mainly selected for apparel purpose
because if its durability, ability to withstand the rough laundering treatments especially
under alkaline conditions, comfort during wear ability to take up a wide range of dyestuffs.
However, proneness to creasing under slight crushing and retention of the crease for a long
time give cotton garments a poor rating during actual wear. The ability of a fabric to resist the
formation of crease or wrinkle when slightly squeezed is termed as crease resistance. Crease
recovery of the fabric is the ability of a fabric to recover to a definite degree. Wrinkle
resistance finish enhancement in fabric resiliency and softness as well as decrease in fabric
abrasion resistance, tear and tensile strength and also make the fabric harsh and stiff. So far
this finishing gives our apparel crease resistance, dimensionally stable, improve resilience
property of fabric, reduce shrinkage of the fabric during laundering, impart a smooth look
and improve fastness to light and washing.
Reference:
1.http://omicsgroup.org/journals/impact-of-various-wrinkle-free-finishes-on-wrinkle-
recovery-property-of-cotton-fabric-under-different-variables-2165-
8064.1000160.php?aid=27693
2. http://textilelibrary.blogspot.com/2009/03/wrinkle-free-finishing-process.html
3. http://leonardautomatics.com/industries/curing-wrinkle-free-processes/
4. http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/12/1165/role-of-silicone-in-resin-
finishing1,2,3,4.asp
5.http://nopr.niscair.res.in/bitstream/123456789/4391/1/IJFTR%2034(2)%20183-186.pdf
6. publication of The Effect of Wrinkle-free Treatment on Fabric Tear Strength and Dynamic
Water Absorbency by L. Lau, T. Siu, J. Fan, L.Y.C. Siu and E. Newton (Institute of Textiles
and Clothing, Hong Kong Polytechnic University)
7. Effect of wrinkle resistance finish on cotton fabric properties From Indian Journal of Fiber
& Textile Reseasch vol.34,June 2009,pp.183-186 by Yahya Can, Muhammet Akaydin,
Yildiray Turhan & Ercan Ay
8. Effect of crease resistant finish on crease recovery properties of cotton fabric from
International Journal of Textile and Fashion Technology (IJTFT) ISSN 2250-2378 Vol. 3,
Issue 4, Oct 2013, 9-14 by Mona Verma, Krishna Khambra, Nirmal Yadav & Rajvir Singh.
9. Slide of introduction-of-finishing-and-resin-finishing-9-728.
*****************------------------------------******************

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Wrinkle resistance finishing (Wrinkle free)

  • 1. Apparel wash & Finishing Azmir Latif ,MSc Engr.(Textile) Page | 1 Introduction: Wrinkle free resin finishing is a process to apply chemical resin onto fabrics functioning crosslinking between hydrogen bonds in order to enhance stability, on other words, fabrics are prevent to wrinkling. The ability of a fabric to recover to a definite degree is called crease recovery of the fabric.Tendency of fabrics made by cellulose, regenerated cellulose and blends with synthetic fibers to wrinkle after washing, tumble drying and wearing are higher. Today everybody wishes for that his/her dress retains just ironed shape. Wrinkle free finishes provide wrinkle free and soft look fabric. Wrinkle free finishes are broadly used in the textile industry to impart wrinkle-resistance to cellulosic materials such as cotton fabric. Cellulosic fiber-containing fabrics are made wrinkle resistant by a durable press wrinkle-free process which comprises treating a cellulosic fiber-containing fabric with formaldehyde, a catalyst capable of catalyzing the crosslinking reaction between the formaldehyde and cellulose and a silicone elastomer, heat-curing the treated cellulose fiber-containing fabric, preferably having a moisture content of more than 20% by weight, under conditions at which formaldehyde reacts with cellulose in the presence of the catalyst without a substantial loss of formaldehyde before the reaction of the formaldehyde with cellulose to improve the wrinkle resistance of the fabric in the presence of a silicone elastomeric softener to provide higher wrinkle resistance, and better tear strength after washing, with less treatment.[2] The application of wrinkle resistance (permanent or durable press) finishes on the fabric improves their wrinkle resistance property. Because of increasing demand for pure cotton fabrics, permanent press finishes are being used on these clothes. In conventional durable press finishing, there are two types of products used (resin type and reactant type). Both of these products contain formaldehyde which cause human carcinogen. Hence durable press finishes free of formaldehyde with trade names;Texicil DC, Knittex RCT, Arkofix NEC and Arkofix ELF (Dihydroxi ethylene urea and Demethyldihydroxi urea) were used in this research study. The present work endeavors to optimize the application of these wrinkle free finishes at various concentrations trying different techniques of applying these finishes on pure cotton fabric for best manufacturing results. The results revealed that the finish Arkofix ELF and Arkofix NEC showed superior results at the concentration level 120 g/l under Pad-flash –cure method of application for the wrinkle free property of the fabric.[1] [3]
  • 2. Apparel wash & Finishing Azmir Latif ,MSc Engr.(Textile) Page | 2 Objective of wrinkle resistance finish The main objectives of wrinkle finish keep the fabric flat and smooth and free from undesirable creases.[9]  It makes apparel easy to use, wash and iron. Disadvantage: [9] Resinsfallintotwogroup  Depositiontypesofresin(Depositedonthefabricassurfacecoating.Noreactionwilltake placebetweenfiber&resin)  Crosslinkingtypeofresin(Chemicallyreactwiththefiberandcrosslinkfibermolecules alsoobtaineddurable&better) Types of Resins(according to chemical)  Formaldehyde based resins Crosslinking resins are divided into two categories formaldehyde based and non- formaldehyde based. [9]  Non-formaldehyde based resins Non-formaldehyde based resins are made to favour customers towards the harmful and fatal chemicals.[5] e.g.N,N-Dimethyl-4,5-dihydroxyethylene urea (DMeDHEU/DMUG, 1,2,3,4-Butanetetracarboxylic acid (BTCA), Citric acid (CA), Polycarboxylic acid Phosphono and phosphinocarboxylic acids (APCM), Ter-polymer (TPMA), 1,3- dihydroxyl-4,5-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone (DHDMI).[5]
  • 3. Apparel wash & Finishing Azmir Latif ,MSc Engr.(Textile) Page | 3 Process sequence Padding (Apply resin) Drying by Dryer Curing Washing [9] Study on Resin wrinkle resistance finishing [4] Resin or wrinkle free finishing is widely used in the textile industry to impart wrinkle- resistance to cotton fabrics and garments. Considerable loss in strength and abrasion resistance of the finished fabrics has been a major concern for the industry. Enhancing dimensional stability and wrinkle resistance with resin finishing of cotton has constantly been correlated with lower abrasion resistance and tear strength. The strength of the fibre depends on how much the cross-linked chains can still be mutually displaced under tension in order to sufficiently resist the applied load. The rigid cross-links that are formed with the DMDHEU obviously prevent the redistribution of stress by preventing movement within the fibre microstructure. The cross-linking of cellulose molecules with these relatively rigid cross- links causes stiffening of the cellulosic macromolecular network and fibre embitterment, thus dropping the mechanical strength of the treated cotton fabrics. These same mechanisms are responsible for reduced mechanical properties of the fibre surface, thus leading to strength loss. Fibre surface property alteration, such as through the use of softeners, has been shown to play an important task in minimizing strength loss. [4]
  • 4. Apparel wash & Finishing Azmir Latif ,MSc Engr.(Textile) Page | 4 The mixture of inadequate scratch resistance and relatively severe tensile and tear strength loss has been a major disadvantage for resin finished 100% cotton fabrics. The objectives of this work are to investigate the cause and mechanism of loss in abrasion resistance of cross linked cotton fabrics; relationships between the molecular structure of cross-linking agents and their effect on the mechanical properties of cross-linked textile structures; and develop a technology for improving the tear strength of resin finished cotton fabrics by adding special silicones. [4] Tear and Tensile Resistance An overwhelming majority of durable press finishing agents used today are formaldehyde based reagents, such as dimethyloldihydroxyethyleneurea (DMDHEU) and modified DMDHEU, with magnesium chloride as a catalyst. The following summarizes some of the important aspects so far: 1. The catalysts used for DMDHEU systems, such as magnesium chloride, cause degradation of cellulose, thus reducing the tensile and tear strength of cotton fabric. The magnitude of fabric strength loss is affected by temperature, time, and concentration of the catalyst. Fabric strength loss also depends on both the cation and anion of the catalyst. An activated catalyst system, which includes an organic acid, causes more severe fabric tensile strength loss.[4] 2. Tensile strength loss of cotton fabric treated with DMDHEU is due to both the cross- linking of cellulose and the degradation of cellulose caused by the catalyst. Because a catalyst system plays such an important role in influencing the strength loss of cotton fabrics cross-linked by DMDHEU, the selection of the catalyst system and its concentration is crucial for optimizing the tensile strength retention of the finished fabrics.[4] 3. DMDHEU can be removed from the finished fabric by using an alkali treatment, as evidenced by the decrease in wrinkle recovery angle with removal. The fabric strength gradually increases as the hydrolysis of the cross-linked fabric progresses, indicating that the fabric strength loss due to cross-linking the cellulose molecules is
  • 5. Apparel wash & Finishing Azmir Latif ,MSc Engr.(Textile) Page | 5 reversible and that it can be restored by removing the cross-links. The remainder of the strength loss, which has been described as being due to acid-induced de- polymerization, is permanent and is not reversible upon hydrolysis of the cross- links.[4] Experimental Materials: 100% cotton shirting fabric, GSM of 133 is used for applications. Application by padding Liquor pick up: 70% pH: 4-5 Dry: as usual Cure: 150C for 3 minutes Guideline Recipes 1.Shirting Fabrics Commercial DMDHEU: 40-60 g/l MgCl2: 8-12 g/l 2.ResilInnocelle FSS: 0.5-3% 3.ResilUltrafab EMS: 0.5-3% + ResilInnocelle FSS: 0.5-3% 4.ResilLFR : 40-60 g/l MgCl2 : 8-12 g/l ResilUltrafabEMS : 10-30 g/l ResilInnocelle FSS v : 10-30 g/l
  • 6. Apparel wash & Finishing Azmir Latif ,MSc Engr.(Textile) Page | 6 Effect of Amino Silicone on the Strength Properties of Cotton Shirting Fabric [4] In order to maintain the desired physical properties of finished fabrics and garments, fabric softeners are frequently used in resin treatment. In a conventional process polyethylene is the most commonly used additive in durable press finish formulations. Low-amino modified polysiloxane gives better strength improvement than polyethylene emulsions [4] Effect of Combination of Low-amino Modified Silicone and Semi-macro Silicones on the Strength Properties of Cotton Shirting Fabric [4] Low-amino modified polysiloxane combined with a blend of amino modified polysiloxane and hydroxy terminated polysiloxane show better strength improvement than polyethylene emulsions or amino silicones. [4]
  • 7. Apparel wash & Finishing Azmir Latif ,MSc Engr.(Textile) Page | 7 Effects of Amino Modified Polyethylene Based Polymer Silicone Softeners and Semi-macro on the Mechanical Properties of Cotton Shirting Fabric Cross- linked by DMDHEU[4] Strength loss% CRA DP RATING
  • 8. Apparel wash & Finishing Azmir Latif ,MSc Engr.(Textile) Page | 8 Test result Results indicate enhancement in fabric resiliency and softness as well as decrease in fabric strength. The use of low amino modified polysiloxane combined with a blend of amino modified polysiloxane and hydroxy terminated polysiloxane as an additive minimises strength loss of the cotton fabric with improvement in softness because of treatment with resin and catalyst, without creating negative effects on the wrinkle resistance of the fabric.[4] The Effect of Wrinkle-free Treatment on Fabric Tear Strength and Dynamic Water Absorbency [6] Two groups of fabric samples: six 100% cotton twill fabrics with different level of wrinklefree treatment, and six 100% cotton twill fabrics without wrinkle-free treatment were experimentally studied. These fabrics were tested in terms of nitrogen content, swelling index (water retention), tear strength and dynamic water absorption rate. The nitrogen content was considered as a probably better indicator of the level of wrinkle-free treatment than the swelling index (water retention) commonly used in the industry. In this work, the relationship between the nitrogen content and swelling index (water retention) were studied. The effects of nitrogen content and swelling index (water retention) on the tear strength and the dynamic water absorbency were investigated. [6] The results showed that (1) The swelling index (water retention) has a strong linear relationship with the total nitrogen content in the fabric. The higher nitrogen content, the lower the swelling index (water retention). (2) The fabric tear strength is highly correlated with the total nitrogen content or the swelling index (water retention). High nitrogen content or low swelling index (water retention), which may be resulted from the wrinkle-free treatment, causes low tear strength. (3) High nitrogen content or low swelling index (water retention) reduces the water absorption rate of the fabric and increases the contact angle when the water drop is in initial contact of the fabric. A conventional wrinkle-free finish is Dimethylodihydroxy-ethyleneurea (DMDHEU). The crosslinking resin crosslinked with fibre and the result of such crosslinking reaction form
  • 9. Apparel wash & Finishing Azmir Latif ,MSc Engr.(Textile) Page | 9 fibres bonded together. As a result, fabric has increased wrinkle-resistant, wrinkle recovery, dimensional stability and shape retention [6]. One coin has two sides; crosslinking resin also has some drawback. Previous studies provide a general understanding of the effect of wrinkle-free treatment of fabric properties. For example, the treatment can reduce tear strength, tensile strength, abrasion resistance, make a fabric harsher and reduce a natural cotton hand. Although, there is some general understanding on the topic, no systematic research was done in the past in this area . The objective of this project is to investigate the effect of different levels of wrinkle-free treatment, on fabric properties important to durability and comfort.[6] SAMPLES There are two groups of the samples for this study: Six 100% cotton twill fabrics (fabric density per inch is 108x56, yarn count (Nec) is 16x12) with different level of wrinkle-free treatment, and six 100% cotton twill fabrics (fabric density per inch is 108x56, yarn count (Nec) is 16x12) without wrinkle-free treatment. The details are as follows: TEST METHODS For testing the effect of wrinkle-free treatment to fabric properties related to durability and clothing comfort, the following methods were used:  Kjeldahl’s Method: Crosslinking molecule consists of nitrogen atoms and those cannot be found in cellulose molecule. The level of nitrogen content may relate to the level of wrinkle-free treatment. To measure the nitrogen content of a fabric, the Kjeldahl’s Method was used. The fibre molecule is decomposed from organic molecule to inorganic molecule by digestion. The nitrogen content is calculated after the procedures of distillation and titration.  Contact Angle Meter (Model CAM-MICRO): This set of equipment was used to measure the dynamic water absorptivity of fabric surface,
  • 10. Apparel wash & Finishing Azmir Latif ,MSc Engr.(Textile) Page | 10 i.e. water drop on the wrong side of a fabric. The contact angle diameter of the water drop is recorded by a high-speed digital camera.  Tear Strength (ASTM D1424-96) For testing the fabric durability, tear strength (ASTM D1424-96) was conducted. Both warp and weft of specimens were tested.  Swelling index (water retention) Wrinkle-free finish reduces the moisture sorption capacity of a fabric. Therefore, the industry uses swelling index (water retention) as an indicator of wrinkle-free treatment level. While carrying the test, fabric samples are dipped with different period of time and calculate the percentage of moisture retentivity by the variance of the damp weight divided by fabric weight. [6] RESULTS AND DISCUSSION Figure 1 plots the relationship between nitrogen content and swelling index (water retention). It can be seen that the swelling index (water retention) has a strong linear relationship with the total nitrogen content in the fabric. The higher nitrogen content, the lower the swelling index (water retention). The square correlation coefficient is 0.7199. Crosslinking molecule consists of nitrogen atoms those cannot be found in cellulose molecule. Therefore, the testing of nitrogen content in wrinkle-free treatment has been conducted. It is for the purpose of investigating the relationship between nitrogen content and swelling index (water retention), to test if nitrogen content can replace to swelling index (water retention) as an indicator of the treatment level. The result showed that there is a linear relationship between swelling index (water retention) and nitrogen content. Thus, it may be said that increase in nitrogen content may intake higher level of wrinkle-free treatment. [6] Figure 1: The Relationship between Nitrogen Content and Swelling index (water retention) Figure 2 plots the relationship between nitrogen content and tear strength. It can be seen that fabric tear strength is highly correlated with the total nitrogen content or swelling index
  • 11. Apparel wash & Finishing Azmir Latif ,MSc Engr.(Textile) Page | 11 (water retention). The R² is 0.527. High nitrogen content or low swelling index (water retention), which may be resulted from the wrinkle-free treatment, causes low tear strength. The cellulose of cotton is an active chemical, and its character and behaviour can be altered by chemical treatment [7]. Wrinkle-free treatment can tender a fabric strength as the treatment is composed of crosslinking resin, catalysts which is to initiate the crosslinking action, softening agent which is to maintain the fabric quality and wetting agent which is to increase the speed of penetration of the finish into a fabric. Cotton is a fibre that is easily tendered by acid [8]. The catalyst in wrinkle-free treatment is an acid, it is a reason why a fabric strength is decreased after wrinkle-free treatment. In addition, the wetting agent has a highly density polyethylene which restores some of the lost tear strength and abrasion resistance by providing lubrication. High nitrogen content or low swelling index (water retention) reduces the water absorption rate of the fabric and increases the contact angle when the water drop is in initial contact of the fabric. (Figure 3 & 4) Figure 3 shows the relationship between nitrogen content and water absorption time. It can be divided into two categories. The first category is the samples before wrinkle-free treatment (♦). The second is after wrinkle-free treatment samples (▲). It can be observed that in the category of before wrinkle-free treatment, the increased in nitrogen content has similar water absorption time. It can reflect that nitrogen in dyestuff may not affect water
  • 12. Apparel wash & Finishing Azmir Latif ,MSc Engr.(Textile) Page | 12 absorption. On the other hand, in the after wrinkle-free finish samples, it can be found that the nitrogen in wrinkle-free treatment can affect water absorption, the higher the nitrogen content, the longer the water absorption time. However, some of the samples are not on the trendline. It may because other parameters can affect the results. The samples those were taken can affect the result. The distribution of wrinkle-free treatment is one of the parameter. Besides, other finishing that the samples were applied can also affect the results.[6] Figure 4 shows the relationship between nitrogen content and contact angle. The higher the contact angle the poorer the water absorption. The R² is 0.6444. Cotton is mainly composed of cellulose. When cotton is treated with acid under certain conditions it is converted into the sugar glucose. This reaction provides a key to the structure of cellulose. Cotton molecule consists of hydrogen atoms those can absorb water. The chemical formula is [C6H12O6]n. There is a ring composed of five carbon atoms and one oxygen atom, the chemical name for this is the pyranose ring. There are two types of molecule. Crystalline regions are some orderly arrangement of molecules. Amorphous regions are the disordered zones. The amorphous regions are the important sites for many of the typical reactions of the cotton fibre. The uptake of water by cotton from a moist atmosphere ~ its moisture regain (7-8% under a standard condition) ~ which is partly due to hydrogen bonding between water molecule and hydroxyl groups in the cellulose, is believed occur only in the amorphous regions. The introduction of water molecules into this non-rigid part of the structure pushes the individual cellulose molecules still further apart, and produces that swelling of the fibre which characteristically accompanies its absorption of water. However, after wrinkle-free finish, some of the hydrogen atoms of a fibre are occupied by crosslinking resin which can diminish fabric water absorption rate. Moreover, softening is a hydrophobic finish which can also affect the water absorption. [6] Result analysis According to the testing results, it can be concluded that:  There was a close relationship between nitrogen content and swelling index (water
  • 13. Apparel wash & Finishing Azmir Latif ,MSc Engr.(Textile) Page | 13 retention). Swelling index (water retention) is a good indicator of wrinkle-free treatment level, as good as the nitrogen content, which is more time-consuming and difficult to measure.  Wrinkle-free treatment can tender fabric tear strength. The level of wrinkle-free treatment can affect the fabric tear strength, the higher level of the treatment, the lower the tear strength .Other factors can also affect the fabric strength such as yarn formation and fabric structure.  Wrinkle-free treatment can deteriorate water absorption rate. The higher level of wrinklefree treatment, the poor the water absorption rate and the longer the water absorption time.[6] Effect of wrinkle resistance finish on cotton fabric properties [7]
  • 14. Apparel wash & Finishing Azmir Latif ,MSc Engr.(Textile) Page | 14
  • 15. Apparel wash & Finishing Azmir Latif ,MSc Engr.(Textile) Page | 15
  • 16. Apparel wash & Finishing Azmir Latif ,MSc Engr.(Textile) Page | 16
  • 17. Apparel wash & Finishing Azmir Latif ,MSc Engr.(Textile) Page | 17
  • 18. Apparel wash & Finishing Azmir Latif ,MSc Engr.(Textile) Page | 18 [7] Effect of crease resistant finish on crease recovery properties of cotton fabric [8] MATERIAL AND METHODS For the application of crease resistant finish the pure grey cotton fabric was purchased. It has fabric count 50 ends and 49 picks, 103.6 g/m2 weight per unit area with 0.31 mm thickness. Then it was given scouring pre-treatment to remove the vegetative impurities from the grey fabric. The scouring the grey cotton fabric was done by sodium hydroxide for two hours. After scouring the fabric count of the fabric increased while the weight per unit area and thickness of the fabric decreased. fabric count became 52 ends × 51 picks ,weight per unit area changed into 100.8 g/m2 having 0.29 mm thickness. Chitosan with 82% degree of deacetylation was purchased from Indian sea Food Company for application of finish. Citric acid, catalyst and silicon softener were also used along with chitosan. After optimizing the standard concentrations of chemicals and conditions the finish was applied on the scoured cotton fabric. The crease resistant finish was applied on scoured cotton fabric by using pad dry cure method after standardizing different conditions and concentrations of chemicals. Each cotton sample was first impregnated in a solution containing the citric acid as crosslinking agent
  • 19. Apparel wash & Finishing Azmir Latif ,MSc Engr.(Textile) Page | 19 (10%), chitosan (4%), silicon softener and di-sodium hypophosphite in 6% as standardized proportion. Then the impregnated fabric sample was pressed between the squeezing rollers of the padding mangle machine. The pressure of 2kg/cm was maintained and 70 % - 75 % expressions was achieved. The samples were dried at 1000C for 4min and cured in an oven at a specified temperature (1700C) for a specified time (3min). Following are the standard concentrations and conditions used to apply finish on scoured fabric.[8] RESULTS After application of crease resistant finish on the scoured cotton fabric, the crease recovery angle of the fabric was measured to see the effect on crease resistant finish on the crease recovery characteristics of the treated fabric. Assessment of Crease Recovery Characteristics After applying the crease resistant finish on the scoured fabric following the standardized conditions. The crease recovery characteristics of fabrics were assessed. Crease recovery characteristics of scoured and treated fabrics were assessed. It is evident from the Table 2 that when the crease resistant finish was applied on scoured cotton fabric. Treated fabric showed the increase in the crease recovery angle in warp 106 ± 1.14 degree and 105.0 ± 0.83 degree weft directions as compared to the scoured cotton fabric (control) which had 85.4 ±1.25 degree crease recovery angles at warp and 83.8 ± 0.73degree in the weft direction. The fabric crease recovery was 84.54% and after application of finish it became 104.04%.[8]
  • 20. Apparel wash & Finishing Azmir Latif ,MSc Engr.(Textile) Page | 20 Due to the presence of citric acid and chitosan crosslinking bonds formed. These bonds require maximum amount of energy to break these bonds. These bonds keep the cellulose molecules in to their respective position. Thus it resists the breakage and slippage of the cellulose molecules. It results in increase in the crease recovery angle. The results of Daniela Enescu (2008) supported the study that durable press and antimicrobial finishing of cotton with citric acid by the conventional pad-dry-cure process, improved the crease recovery angle. [8] Efficacy of Applied Finish of Different Fabrics The effectiveness of the finish was assessed in terms of crease recovery angle; fabric crease recovery and rate of bacterial reduction. To determine the efficacy of crease recovery finish of laundered fabric. The treated fabrics were subjected to different laundering cycles (5, 10, 15 and 20) keeping in mind different parameters.[8] Efficacy of Crease Resistant Finish on Crease Recovery Characteristics Crease recovery properties were studied after passing the finished fabrics under different laundering cycles. Crease recovery angle and fabric crease recovery was detected on treated fabric subjected to different laundering cycles. It is evident from the Table 3 and Figure 3 that when the crease resistant finished treated fabric was given five laundering cycles, there was decrease in the crease recovery angle in warp and weft direction 100.2± 0.80 degree and 99.4± 0.51degree respectively after 5 laundering cycles with fabric crease recovery was 99.6 percent.[8]
  • 21. Apparel wash & Finishing Azmir Latif ,MSc Engr.(Textile) Page | 21 It was found that there was progressive decrease in the crease recovery angle when the number of laundering cycles increased from 5 to 20, the crease recovery angle was 90.2±1.68 degree and 89.2±0.86 degree for the warp and weft direction respectively and percent fabric crease recovery was 89.5 percent. When the change in the crease recovery angle of the laundered treated fabric was compared with the treated fabric (control), the percent reduction in the crease recovery angle was from 5.40 percent to 14.97 percent when fabric was subjected to laundering from 5 to 10 laundering cycles respectively. It was found that the fabric crease recovery decreases with the progressive laundering cycles. This may be due to that with progressive laundering cycles the crease resistant finish removes gradually by the rubbing and friction movement caused during laundering process. The results of the study were in line with. Yang (1997) experimented with the durable press finish on cotton fabric. The different number of laundering cycles was given to evaluate the durability of finish to laundering he found that the sample treated with citric acid and it was found that the crease recovery angle decreased with increase in laundering cycles. Sung Huang Hsieh et al. (2006) also found that the anti-wrinkle property of treated fabrics is decreased after laundering 20 times; the softness of the fabric was improved. [8]
  • 22. Apparel wash & Finishing Azmir Latif ,MSc Engr.(Textile) Page | 22 Result analysis It is concluded from the results that the crease resistance finish showed the good resistant against wrinkle formation. It was found that there was increase in the crease recovery angle of the fabric after application of crease resistant finish. It proves that the chitosan with the citric acid shows the good results against crease formation and it also showed maximum retention of the finish by maintaining the satisfactory crease recovery angle after 20 washing cycles. [8] Summary of above all review articles A Study on wrinkle resistance finish by resin on cotton fabric properties we summarize that Resin finishing is the process of bringing out a special property of ‘crease recovery’ of cotton. Resin finishing often known by various fancy terminologies is an important process of textile processing. Wrinkle free finish quite often called ‘wash & wear finish/anticrease finish/crease resistance finish/durable press finish/ Resin finishing’. It has been that all kind of finishing process significantly affect fiber charecteristics. Finish processes applied to the fabrics lead to increased fabric cost. The cost can be minimized by selecting fiber, yarn, fabric with high wrinkle resistance charecteristies before applying a crease resistance. Anti wrinkle finish operation is generally applied to fabrics for clothing. With the application of this operation, while wrinkle strength and pilling perforance increase, the tensile and tearing strength of the fabric decrease. So, anti-wrinkle finsh operation will be important in hoding stated fabic properties in optimum. Another research shows that it was found the Efficacy of Crease Resistant on cotton fabric Finish on Crease Recovery Characteristics is decrease over its use and laundering. Crease recovery angle and fabric crease recovery was detected on treated fabric subjected to different laundering cycles.. After application of crease resistant finish on the scoured cotton fabric, the crease recovery angle of the fabric was measured to see the effect on crease resistant finish on the crease recovery characteristics of the treated fabric. It is concluded from the results that the crease resistance finish showed the good resistant against wrinkle formation. It was found that there was increase in the crease recovery angle of the fabric after application of crease resistant finish. It proves that the chitosan with the citric acid shows the good results against crease formation and it also showed maximum retention of the finish by maintaining the satisfactory crease recovery angle after 20 washing cycles. In other research on Wrinkle-free Treatment on Fabric Tear Strength and Dynamic Water Absorbency Wrinkle-free treatment also affect fabric tear strength. The level of wrinkle-free treatment can affect the fabric tear strength, the higher level of the treatment,
  • 23. Apparel wash & Finishing Azmir Latif ,MSc Engr.(Textile) Page | 23 the lower the tear strength .Other factors can also affect the fabric strength such as yarn formation and fabric structure. Wrinkle-free finish reduces the moisture sorption capacity of a fabric. Therefore, the industry uses swelling index (water retention) as an indicator of wrinkle-free treatment level. While carrying the test, fabric samples are dipped with different period of time and calculate the percentage of moisture retentivity by the variance of the damp weight divided by fabric weight. High nitrogen content or low swelling index (water retention) reduces the water absorption rate of the fabric and increases the contact angle when the water drop is in initial contact of the fabric. A Study on Resin wrinkle resistance finishing shows that the catalysts used for DMDHEU systems, such as magnesium chloride, cause degradation of cellulose, thus reducing the tensile and tear strength of cotton fabric. The magnitude of fabric strength loss is affected by temperature, time, and concentration of the catalyst. Fabric strength loss also depends on both the cation and anion of the catalyst. An activated catalyst system, which includes an organic acid, causes more severe fabric tensile strength loss. By analyzing different resin finishing treatment, if we apply Low-amino modified polysiloxane combined with a blend of amino modified polysiloxane and hydroxy terminated polysiloxane show better strength improvement than polyethylene emulsions or amino silicones. Any kind of resin finishing treatment increase strength and pilling perforance, the tensile and tearing strength of the fabric decrease and also reduces the water absorption rate of the fabric and increases the contact angle when the water drop is in initial contact of the fabric. In table 2 (chareteristic of fabrics) already shows how fabric properties affect by wrinkle resistance finish.Finally we say it enhancement in fabric resiliency and softness as well as decrease in fabric abrasion resistance, tear and tensile strength and also make the fabric harsh and stiff. Try to avoid DMDHEU systems, such as magnesium chloride, cause degradation of cellulose, thus reducing the tensile and tear strength of cotton fabric. The use of low amino modified polysiloxane combined with a blend of amino modified polysiloxane and hydroxy terminated polysiloxane as an additive minimizes strength loss of the cotton fabric with improvement in softness because of treatment with resin and catalyst, without creating negative effects on the wrinkle resistance of the fabric.
  • 24. Apparel wash & Finishing Azmir Latif ,MSc Engr.(Textile) Page | 24 Conclusion Benefits from wrinkle free resin finishing are tremendous including: handle and fabric weight transformation, less care involvement, wrinkle elimination, wrinkle recovery in usage, wrinkling minimization after washing and drying, undesirable fold and creases reduction, fabric smoothness and dimensional stability. Cotton is mainly selected for apparel purpose because if its durability, ability to withstand the rough laundering treatments especially under alkaline conditions, comfort during wear ability to take up a wide range of dyestuffs. However, proneness to creasing under slight crushing and retention of the crease for a long time give cotton garments a poor rating during actual wear. The ability of a fabric to resist the formation of crease or wrinkle when slightly squeezed is termed as crease resistance. Crease recovery of the fabric is the ability of a fabric to recover to a definite degree. Wrinkle resistance finish enhancement in fabric resiliency and softness as well as decrease in fabric abrasion resistance, tear and tensile strength and also make the fabric harsh and stiff. So far this finishing gives our apparel crease resistance, dimensionally stable, improve resilience property of fabric, reduce shrinkage of the fabric during laundering, impart a smooth look and improve fastness to light and washing. Reference: 1.http://omicsgroup.org/journals/impact-of-various-wrinkle-free-finishes-on-wrinkle- recovery-property-of-cotton-fabric-under-different-variables-2165- 8064.1000160.php?aid=27693 2. http://textilelibrary.blogspot.com/2009/03/wrinkle-free-finishing-process.html 3. http://leonardautomatics.com/industries/curing-wrinkle-free-processes/ 4. http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/12/1165/role-of-silicone-in-resin- finishing1,2,3,4.asp 5.http://nopr.niscair.res.in/bitstream/123456789/4391/1/IJFTR%2034(2)%20183-186.pdf 6. publication of The Effect of Wrinkle-free Treatment on Fabric Tear Strength and Dynamic Water Absorbency by L. Lau, T. Siu, J. Fan, L.Y.C. Siu and E. Newton (Institute of Textiles and Clothing, Hong Kong Polytechnic University) 7. Effect of wrinkle resistance finish on cotton fabric properties From Indian Journal of Fiber & Textile Reseasch vol.34,June 2009,pp.183-186 by Yahya Can, Muhammet Akaydin, Yildiray Turhan & Ercan Ay 8. Effect of crease resistant finish on crease recovery properties of cotton fabric from International Journal of Textile and Fashion Technology (IJTFT) ISSN 2250-2378 Vol. 3, Issue 4, Oct 2013, 9-14 by Mona Verma, Krishna Khambra, Nirmal Yadav & Rajvir Singh. 9. Slide of introduction-of-finishing-and-resin-finishing-9-728. *****************------------------------------******************