The following terms & definitions are used to describe and explain cotton fiber maturity. Circularity : The degree of thickening which is calculated by the cross sectional area of the fiber wall divided by the area of a circle of the same perimeter. Theta : Average circularity of the matured fibers also described as the degree of thickening. Fineness (mtex) : Average fiber fineness (weight per unit length) in millitex. 1000 meters of fibers with a mass of 1 milligram equals 1 millitex. IFC (%) : Immature fiber content in percent. Percentage of fibers with less than 0.25 circularity. The lower the IFC% the better the fiber is for dyeing. Maturity Ratio : Maturity Ratio is the ratio of fibers with a 0.5 (or more) circularity ratio devided by the amount of fibers with a 0.25 (or less) circularity. The higher the maturity ratio, the more mature the fibers are and the better the fibers are for dyeing.

1. Spinning Quality & Spinning Parameters

2. Name : MAZADUL HASAN SHESHIR
ID: 2010000400008
Batch: 13th Batch (Session 2009-2013)
Department: Wet Processing Technology
Email: mazadulhasan@yahoo.com (FB)
Blog: www. Textilelab.blogspot.com
Southeast University,Bangladesh
Department of Textile Engineering
PREPARED BY ©right

6. The following terms & definitions are used to describe and explain cotton fiber
maturity.
Circularity :
The degree of thickening which is calculated by the cross sectional area of the fiber
wall divided by the area of a circle of the same perimeter.
Theta :
Average circularity of the matured fibers also described as the degree of thickening.
Fineness (mtex) : Average fiber fineness (weight per unit length) in millitex. 1000
meters of fibers with a mass of 1 milligram equals 1 millitex.
IFC (%) :
Immature fiber content in percent. Percentage of fibers with less than 0.25 circularity.
The lower the IFC% the better the fiber is for dyeing.
Maturity Ratio :
Maturity Ratio is the ratio of fibers with a 0.5 (or more) circularity ratio devided by the
amount of fibers with a 0.25 (or less) circularity. The higher the maturity ratio, the
more mature the fibers are and the better the fibers are for dyeing.
Terms & Definitions:

7. Type of yarn Count
Cotton Yarn 16s ,20s, 22s, 24s, 26S, 28S, 30S, 34S, 40S
Polyester Yarn 75D, 100D,150D
Spandex yarn 20D,40D,70D
Grey Mellange (C-90% V-10%) 20S ,22S ,24S, 26S ,30S ,34S
PC (65%Polyester & 35% cotton) 24S, 26S, 28S, 30S
24S, 26S, 28S, 30S
RAW MATERIALS USE FOR KNITTING:

8. Relation between count and staple length
For Weaving For Knitting
20 Nec 22.5 ~ 24.5 mm 20 ~ 25 Nec 26.5 ~ 27.5 mm
24 Nec 23.0 ~ 25.5 mm 26 ~ 30 Nec 27.5 ~ 28.5 mm
26 Nec 24.0 ~ 26.5 mm 32 ~ 34 Nec 28.5 ~ 29.5 mm
30 Nec 25.0 ~ 27.0 mm 36 ~ 40 Nec 29.5 ~ 30.5 mm
36 Nec 26.0 ~ 28.0 mm

10. Types of yarns
Type of yarn Count
Cotton 20S ,24S, 26S, 28S, 30S, 32S, 34S, 36S ,40S, 45S
Polyester 70D,100D,150D
Spandex yarn 20D,40D,70D
Grey Mélange (C-90% V-10%) 24S, 26S
Ecru Mélange (C-85% V-15%) 24S, 26S, 28S
Cotton Mélange (100%) 24S, 26S, 28S
PC (65%Polyester & 35% cotton) 24S, 26S, 28S, 30S
CVC(60% Polyester & 40% Cotton) 24S, 26S, 28S, 30S

11. Yarn
Fibre
Evenness (
U% / CV% )
Thin places
Thick places
Neps/1000 m yarn
Classimat faults/100
km yarn
Breaking
tenacity
(Fmax/tex)
Breaking
elongation (%
)
Hairiness
(H)
Fibre length 1 2 3 4 5
Micronaire value 6 7 8 9 10
Nep content
Leaf content
Trash content
Microdust content
Fibre fragments content
11 12 13 14 15
1/8 Breaking strength 16 17 18 19 20
1/8 Elongation 21 22 23 24 25
Colour / reflectance 26 27 28 29 30
Relationship between fibre strength & the yarn tensile properties.

12. Relationship between yarn & fibre quality characteristics ( Rotor spun yarn ).
Yarn
Fibre
Evenness
( U% / CV%
)
Thin places
Thick places
Neps/1000 m yarn
Classimat faults/100
km yarn
Breaking
tenacity
(Fmax/tex)
Breaking
elongation (%
)
Hairiness (H)
Fibre length 1 2 3 4 5
Micronaire value 6 7 8 9 10
Nep content
Leaf content
Trash content
Microdust content
Fibre fragments content
11 12 13 14 15
1/8 Breaking strength 16 17 18 19 20
1/8 Elongation 21 22 23 24 25
Colour / reflectance 26 27 28 29 30

14. Raw material / cotton fibre selection :
 Fibre length & its uniformity
 Fibre strength
 Short fibre content
 Fineness (mic.)
 Maturity
 Nep content
 Color
Mixing :
 Contamination sorting
 Consistency of mix
Blow Room :
 Frequency of process / mix change
 Waste control
Carding :
 Carding Speed
 Neps content in card sliver
 Sliver linear density & variation control
 Waste control
Key Control Parameters Of spinning Floor :

15. Lap forming & Combing :
 Control of lap weight
 Comber speed
 Noil (Comber waste) extraction
 Neps in combed sliver
Drawing :
 Drawing speed
 Sliver uniformity/Regularity control
Simplex Fly Frame/Roving Frame :
 Flyer Speed
 Twist level
 Frequency of process change
Ring Spinning :
 Spindle speed
 Twist level
 Frequency of process/raw material changes
Winding :
 Winding Speed
 Frequency of process change
Key Control Parameters Of spinning Floor :

16. a) Blow-room
Function :
1. Opening & Cleaning
Wastage
1. Dropping
2. Filter waste
3. Fine Dust
b) Carding
Function :
1. Parallelization & straightening
2. Nap & dead fiber remove
3. Wt/unit length Sliver
Wastage
1. L-in wastage
2. Flat strip
3. Sliver wastage
4. A/C Dust : Back, Ring & Winding
Function & Wastage of different section

17. Function & Wastage of different section
c) Drawing
Function
1. Drafting & Doubling
2. Uniform sliver (wt/unit length)
3. More parallelization &
straightening (by reduce hook).
Wastage
1. Filter wastage
2. Sliver wastage.
d) Unilap
Function:
1. Lap formation
2. Drafting & doubling.
Wastage:
1. Sliver.
e) Comber.
Function:
1. Short fibers remove
2. Naps remove.
Wastage:
1. Comber Noil.
f) Simplex
Function:
1. Roving formation
2. Drafting & twisting
3. Roving Build up in bobbin.
Wastage:
1. Roving wastage.

18. g) Ring Frame
Function
1. Yarn formation
2. Drafting & twisting
3. Yarn Build up in bobbin.
Wastage:
1. Pneumafil
2. Bonda wastage
3. Wooden roller wastage
4. Sweeping
5. Roving wastage.
h) Wingding
Function
1. Fault free yarn
2. Suitable package.
Wastage:
1. Hard waste
2. Filter waste
3. Sweeping waste.
Function & Wastage of different section

19. Function & Wastage of different section
I) Heat set
Function
1. Twist set
2. Yarn lustier & dye absorption increase
3. Std. moisture regains.
# Importance of FIFO
 Light patta
 Yarn strength decrease
 Overall yarn quality deteorates.
# Bag handling & storage
 Cone damage
 Count & lot mixing
 Overall yarn quality deteorates.
# Control of SECDS
 Missing & wrong stickers
 Missing & wrong lot no
 Paper cone condition
 Oil & hand strain
 Top & bottom stitches
 Damage Cone
 Off standard spindle
 Gara cops
 Count & lot mix
 Shaded cone
 TPI variation
 Thick & thin problem.

20. TOPIC : SELECTION OF RAW COTTON WITH RESPECT TO COUNT AND PROCESSING
MACHINERY.

21. Pre-Ginning : Cotton Fibre quality depend on the following points to a large
extent.
1. Agriculture system
2. Location
3. Weather
4. Picking system & no of pick
5. Ginning preparation
Ginning system & type of ginning:
1. Basic working principle of saw & roller ginning
2. Merits & Demerits of roller ginning
3. Merits & Demerits of saw ginning

22. Relation between processing machine & trash in the cotton:
Normal range:
Count 20’s 30’s 40’s 60’s 80’s 100’s
Trash 5.0 4.0 3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0
For ring yarn processing:
 Selection of no of beating point
 Percentage of seat coat fragment in sliver & cotton
 Draft roller distance
 A/C plant performance
For OE yarn processing:
 Selection of no of beating point
 Trash & dust remaining in sliver
 Draft roller distance
 A/C plant performance

23. A.Classification of cotton base on 2.5% spun length value.
Class
2.5% spun length
mm Inch
Extra long staple 33.0 & above 1.30 & above
Long staple 29.5 to 32.5 1.15 to 1.29
Medium staple 25.0 to 29.0 0.98 to 1.14
Short staple A 20.5 to 24.5 0.81 to 0.97
Short staple B 20.0 & below 0.80 & below
Count vs raw cotton selection:

35. COTTON PARCHASE SYSTEM

36. COTTON PARCHASE SYSTEM

37. QULITY MANAGEMENT

38. QULITY MANAGEMENT

39. Quality Characteristics Of Cotton yarn

40. QualityCharacteristicsOfCottonyarn

45. CV % (Co Efficient of Variation)

46. CV % (Co Efficient of Variation)

47. CV % (Co Efficient of Variation)

55. Degree of Contamination

57. Imperfection (Thick & Thin places)

62. FAULTS

63. FAULTS

64. FAULTS