This document discusses herbal cosmetics, specifically focusing on hair conditioners and hair dyes. It defines hair and some common hair diseases. It also classifies cosmetics and describes ideal properties and evaluation tests for hair conditioners and dyes. Two herbal hair conditioner formulations are provided using ingredients like jojoba oil, rosemary, and birch sap. A natural hair dye formulation using plants like henna and a commercial herbal hair dye product are also described. The document concludes by defining hair shampoo and its purpose of removing grease and dirt from hair.

1. HERBAL COSMETICS
MASTER OF PHARMACY
BY
SHAMBHAVI
MPH/10002/18
DEPARTMENT OF PHARMACEUTICAL SCIENCES & TECHNOLOGY
BIRLA INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY
MESRA–835215, RANCHI
2019

2. CONTENTS
• INTRODUCTION
• DEFINITION OF HAIR
• HAIR DISEASES
• CLASSIFICATION OF COSMETICS
• HAIR CONDITIONERS
• IDEAL PROPERTIES OF HAIR
CONDITIONERS
• EVALUATION TESTS FOR HAIR
CONDITIONERS
• FORMULATION

3. INTRODUCTION
• Natural herbs have been used for the formulation of
cosmetics ever since the beginning of civilization.
• It has estimated that about 25-30% of all modern
medicines are directly derived from natural herbs.
• As per Drugs and Cosmetics Act (1940) and Rules
(1945), Cosmetics can be defined as any article
intended to be rubbed ,poured,sprinkled or sprayed on
,or introduced into or otherwise applied to the human
body or any part thereof for cleaning
,beautifying,promoting attractiveness,or altering the
appearances and include any articles intended for use
as a cosmetic.

4. • Cosmetic includes skin care
creams,lotions,powders,perfumes,nail
polish,eye and facial make-up,hair
colors,hair spray gels ,deodrants,baby
products,bath oils and etc.
• The term cosmeceutical has created in
1990 and mainly used as skin care
products.It can be refer to cosmetic
products that have drug like benefits
and marketed as cosmetics.

5. HAIR
• Hair is mainly a protein filament that grows through the
epidermis from follicles deep within the dermis.
• Hair is responsible for beauty and attractiveness of the
people.
• The main components of hair fiber is keratin.
• Lengthwise,the hair can be divided into three parts –The
Bulb,which is swelling at the base which originates from
the dermis, the root,which is hair lying beneath the skin
surface and lastly shaft, which is the hair above the skin
surface.
• Also in the cross section of hair there are three parts-
1.The medulla,an area in the core that contains loose
cells airspaces ,2.The cortex,which contains densely
packed keratin and,3. The cuticle,which is a single layer
of cells arranged like roof shingle.

6. HAIR DISEASES
• Alopecia areta
• Scalp infection
• Folliculitis
-Pseudomonas folliculitis
-Staphylococcul folliculitis
• Tinea barbae
• Pediculosis capitis
• Tinea capitis
• Seborrheic dermatitis

7. CLASSIFICATION OF COSMETICS
Cosmetics are broadly classified into four types –Skin
cosmetics,Hair cosmetics,Nail cosmetics and cosmetics for
hygiene pupose.
Herbal cosmetics can be classified based on dosage forms
and part or organs of the body to be applied for-
• Dosage forms:
1. Emulsion: cold creams,vanishing creams etc.
2. Powders: face powders,talcum powders,tooth powders etc.
3. Oils:Hair oils.
4. Mucilages:Hand lotions,
5. Solutions:Aftershave Lotion,Hair set solution and Lotions.
6. Suspension:Cosmetic Stockings
7. Paste:Toothpaste,deodrants paste.
8. Soaps:Shampoo soaps,Shaving soaps,Toilet soaps,etc.
9. Jellies: Hand Jellies,Wave set Jelly, etc.

8. • Part or organ of the body to be applied
for:
1.Herbal cosmetics for skin: Powders
,creams,lotions, deodrants, bath and
cleaning products,makeup preparations.
2. Herbal cosmetics for nails: Nail polish
and polish removers, Manicure
Preparations.
3. Herbal cosmetics for hair:
Shampoo,tonic,hair dressing ,shaving
media
4.Herbal cosmetics for teeth and mouth:
Toothpaste,dentrifices ,mouth washes.

9. HAIR CARE
HAIR CONDITIONERS
The term hair conditioners are those which
are used for the attractiveness,healthy
looking hairs.
They should be capable of giving
life,softness,body and silky touch ,control of
flyaway and ease of styling to the hair.
Hair conditioners fall into different groups
moisturizers,reconstructors,acidifiers,detangl
ers,thermal protectors,glosses and oils.

10. • Moisturizers:They are concentrated with
humectants.Humectants are compound that attract and
hold moisture into hair.
• Reconstructors: They normally contain
protein.Hydrolyzed human hair keratin protein is the
best source of it, because it contains all 19 amino acids
found in the hair.
The main purpose of reconstructors is to strenthen the
hair.
• Acidifiers: An acidifiers is a product when it carries a PH
of 2.5 to 3.5.This PH will close to the cuticle layer of the
hair.The result is shiny,bouncy hair.This PH range will
adjust the beta bonds to alpha bonds (H bonds).They do
create shine and elasticity.finally result in bouncy hair.
• Detanglers: Most detanglers are acidifiers.They close the
cuticle of the hair which cause tangles .Some detanglers
are instant and some take 1-5 min.

11. • Thermal protectors: Thermal protectors safeguard the
hair against heat. They are normally use heat absorbing
polymers that distribute the heat ,so the hair does not
get the heat damage.
• Glosses: Most glosses contain dimethicone or
cyclomethicone (very light oils derived from
silicone).They are used in small amount that reflect
lights.They also control the frizzes.
• Oils:Oils especially essential fatty acids are required for
dry hair.The scalp produces a natural sebum (contains
essential fatty acids).It can be taken by very dry and
porous hair and transformed it into soft pliable hair.
Apart from these some of the other ingredients like
surfacatants,lubricants,sequestrants,antistatic agents
and preservatives are also added.

12. Herbs that produce conditioner effect for
hair-

13. Ideal properties of Hair
Conditioners -
A hair conditioner should be capable of providing
following few characters like,improved wet and dry
combing ,reduced flyaway,increasing
shinning,increasing volume,simple and ease of handling
and finally overall lucrative appearance.
• The primary function of a good hair conditioner is to
treat the hair after shampooing has taken place and
keep it nourished and tanned.
• Essentially,Hair conditioner help replinish the look and
feel of the hair after shampooing so they look shiny ,
Healthy and smooth.
• Effective Hair conditioners help moisturize ,improve
gloss managebility to hair after it has been subjected to
a hair wash with shampoo or other detergents that
deplete its natural protective coating.

14. Evaluation Tests for Hair Conditioners
A. Physicochemical Test
1.Net content
2. Description of the color ,odor,physical state of hair conditioner.
3. Ash value at 600deg
4.Nonvolatile matters or 105 deg celsius for 2 hours.
5. Water content
6.PH of the hair conditioners : It should be between 6- 7.5
7.Test for Ammonia:It should be negative.
B. Performance Test
1. Wetting Test: It should be within 4-150 sec.
2. Lusture and Softness: Upto satisfaction.
3. Conditioning effect on greasy and dry hair.
C. Physiological Test
1. Dermal toxicity: It should be negative.
2. Eye toxicity: It should be negative.
3. Cytotoxicity: It should be negative.
4. Stability Test : Should give good stability.

15. FORMULATION
• JOJOBA CONDITIONER-
Ingredients: One cup rose floral water,
1 tablespoon jojoba oil, 10 drops
vitamin E oil.
Procedure: In the top of a double boiler,
gently warm the rose water.Then
jojoba oil is added. Pour the mixture
in a beaker and add the vitamin E .
Blend at a high speed for 2min.

16. • ROSEMARY HAIR CONDITIONER-
It contains a birch sap, jojoba ,
chamomile green tea, vegetable
protein,nettle and rosemary. Birch sap
has astringent and antibacterial
properties, jojoba has hardening of
sebum in the scalp, green tea and
rosemary have powerful antioxidant
properties,chamomile.

17. HAIR DYE
• Hair dye or Hair color is a chemical tool that is
used to change the color of human hair.
• Hair dye is mostly used to change the gray hair
since gray hair is a sign of an advanced age.
• Younger people want to change their hair color to
make the style or fashion.
• A variety of hair colors are available may be due
to the combination of pheomelanin and
eumelanins,the quantity of pigment present, the
different sizes of granules and their distribution
in the pigments.
• The four most common classifications of hair
dyes are “temporary”, ”semipermanent”, “demi-
permanent” (or deposit only) and permanent.

18. IDEAL PROPERTIES OF HAIR COLORS-
1. The formulation of the hair colorant should be stable .
2. They should color the hair evenly.
3. The shaft of the hair must not be damaged.
4. Must be nontoxic.
5. Must impart stable color to the hair.
6. Must be non-irritant and nonsensitizing.
7. The coloured hair must be unaffected by
air,water,sunlight,sweat,shampoos,gels,lotions etc.
8. The natural moisture of the hair must not be lost.
9. They should maintain the texture and gloss of the hair.
10. The PH of the hair dye should be so far from the
neutral (similar as skin PH) and temperature during the
application should not exceed 40 deg celsius.

19. EVALUATION TEST FOR HAIR DYES
A. Performance Test:
1. Color uniformity of the dye.
2. Compatibility of color with hair.
3. Extent of reaction in case of permanent dyes.
4. Washability of color.
5. Color stability.
B. Physiological Test:
1. Dermal toxicity.
2. Eye toxicity.
3. Cytotoxicity.
4. Stability test.
C. Physicochemical Test:
1. Net content.
2. Ash value at 600 deg celsius.
3. Nonvolatile matters at 105 deg celsius for 2 hrs.
4. Effect on hard water.
5. PH.
6. Assay for permanent dyes.
7. IR Spectroscopy for determination of surfactant.
D. Skin irritation and allergy.
E. The toxic effect test.
F. Skin Discolouration.

20. FORMULATIONS
• Formulation of natural dye with mordant:
30 gm aqueous extract of
Cyamphomandra betacea containing 35%
flavanoid and 10% tannins, 30% aqueous
extract of Tagetes erecta containing 20 %
of caratenoid and 40 gm of aloe vera gel
as natural mordant and containing 0.3%
of polysaccharide and 98.5% water were
mixed together.

21. • KALI MEHENDI:
Kali mehendi is entirely produced by
ayurvedic process. It contains Mehendi
powder,Amla ,Aritha
,Shikakai,Bhringraj and other herbs.

22. Hair Shampoo
• Hair shampoos are viscous yet pourable
cosmetic preparation .
• It is a preparation of surfactant(surface
active material) in a suitable form –
liquid,solid,powders-which when used
under a specified condition will remove
surface grease ,dirt and skin debris from
the hair shaft and scalp without
adversely affecting the user.

23. Requirements of a shampoo
1. It should effectively and completely remove the dust
and excessive sebum or other fatty substances from
the hair.
2. It should produce a good amount of foam to satisfy
the psychological requirements of the user.
3. It should be easily removed on rinsing with water.
4. It should leave hair non-dry, soft,lusturous with good
mangeability and minimum fly away.
5. It should impart a pleasant fragrance to hair.
6. It should not cause any side effects/irritation to the
eye or skin.
7. It should not make the hand rough and chapped.

24. Types of shampoo
a) Powder shampoo.
b) Liquid shampoo.
c) Lotion shampoo.
d) Cream shampoo.
e) Jelly shampoo.
f) Aerosol shampoo.
g) Specialized shampoo.
h) Conditioning shampoo.
i) Medicated shampoos like anti-dandruff
shampoo,antilice shampoo and anti-
baldness shampoo.
j) Baby shampoo

25. Ingredients for shampoo
• Surfactants are the main components of
shampoo.
• Mainly anionic surfactant are used.Principle
surfactants provide detergent and foam.
• Secondary surfactant:Improve detergency
foam and hair condition.
• A surfactant consists of two parts –one
hydrophillic (water loving) while other is
hydrophobic in nature.

26. SURFACTANTS:
Anionic surfactants are mostly used
(good foaming properties).The
hydrophilic portion carries a negative
charge which results in superior
foaming,cleaning and end result
attributes.
Non-ionic surfactants have good
cleansing properties but do not have
sufficient foaming power.
Cationic surfactants are toxic and are
hence not used.However they may be
used in low concentration in hair
conditioners.

27. ADDITIVES:
• Additives conditioning agents:Lanolin,Mineral oil,Herbal
extracts,Egg derivatives.
• Foam Builders:Lauryl
Monoethalonamide,Sarcosinates,
• Viscosity modifiers:Elecrolytes-NH4Cl ,NaCl ,Natural gums
,Tragacanth,alginates cellulose derivatives,Hydroxy ethyl
cellulose,Methylcellulose carboxy vinyl polymers:
carbopols 934 and others:PVP,Phosphate esters.
• Sequestering agents:EDTA opacifying
agents:alkanolamides of higher fatty acids,Propylene
gycols,Mg,Ca and Zn salts of stearic acid,spermaceti,etc.
• Clarifying agents:Solubilizing alcohols like
ethanol,isopropanol phosphates ;non-ionic solubilizers-
Polyethoxylatedalcohols and esters.

28. Other Additives includes-
• Additive perfumes: Herbal ,fruity or
floral fragrances.
• Preservatives-Methyl and Propyl
paraben,Formaldehyde (most
effective).
• Anti-dandruff agents: The shampoo
contain small amount of these actives,
which are in contact with the scalp for
only a short time.

29. FORMULATION
Natural shampoo for Normal Hair-
• ¼ cup water
• ¼ cup liquid castile soap
• ½ teaspoon organic sunflower oil.
Method-
All the ingredients are mixed together
and stored in a bottle.Used as
shampoo and rinsed well.

30. Chamomile Shampoo-
Ingredients-
• 6 organic chamomile tea bags.
• 4 tablespoon pure soap flakes.
• 1 ½ tablespoon pure vegetable glycerin.
Method-
Steep the tea bags in 1 ½ cups of boiled
water for 20 minutes.Remove the tea
bags and discard.Add the soap flakes to
the tea and let stand until the soap
softens.Stir in glycerin until well
blended.Kept in a dark,cool place in a
sealed bottle.

31. Evaluation tests for Herbal shampoos
Evaluations of shampoos comprises
the quality control tests including
visual assessment and physiochemical
controls such as pH, density,and
viscosity.Sodium lauryl sulphate based
detergents are the most common as
additives but the concentration varies
from brand to brand and even within a
manufacturer’s product range.

32. • Physical appearance/visual inspection
• Net contents
• Determination of pH
• Determination of percent solid content
• Rheological evaluations
• Dirt dispersion
• Cleansing action
• Surface tension measurement
• Detergency ability

33. • Surface characterisation
• Stability studies
• Foam evaluation and foam stability
-Ross miles test
-Cylinder shake
-Moldovanyi –hungerbubler method
-Hart-deGeorge blendor method
-Blender foam
density/stability/lubricity
• Safety study
• Antimicrobial activity

34. REFERENCES
1. Das, K. (2014). Herbal plants and their
applications in cosmeceuticals. New Delhi:
CBS Publishers and Distributors Pvt Ltd.