Cold cream, vanishing cream and cleansing cream

1. COLD CREAMS
Dr. Prashant L. Pingale
Associate Professor,
Dept. of Pharmaceutics,
GES’s Sir Dr. M. S. Gosavi College of Pharm. Edu. and Research,
Nashik-422005

2. An emulsion of water and certain fats, usually
including beeswax and various scent agents,
designed to smooth skin and remove makeup.
The name derives from the cool feeling that the
cream leaves on the skin.
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3. • Cold cream produces cooling effect becoz slow
evaporation of water present in the emulsion.
• In olden days the cold cream was prepared from
animal fats & vegetable oils but
– Vegetable oils: rancid so replaced by mineral oils
which gives more stable product.
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4. • Mechanism of action on skin:
– o/w type of emulsion but after application on skin,
sufficient water evaporates to permit phase inversion
to w/o type.
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5. Formulation:
• Formula 1
• Bees wax ---- 5%
• Liquid paraffin ---- 45%
• White soft paraffin ----10%
• Hard paraffin ---- 7%
• Borax ---- 0.2%
• Water ---- 32.8%
• Perfume ---- q.s
• Formula 2
• Bees wax ---- 16%
• Liquid paraffin ---- 50%
• Borax ---- 0.8%
• Water ---- 33.2%
• Perfume ---- q.s
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6. General procedure
– Weigh all ingredients in reqd qty.
– Melt the wax and other ings. in their decreasing order
of m.p. on water bath
– Dissolve borax in water at 70-750C
– Add both phase together i.e. oil & water
– Add reqd qty of preservative & perfume
– Transfer the cream to container while hot.
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7. • Storage:
– Stored in a well closed container at a temperature not exceeds 250C.
– Stored in a cool place.
• Labeling:
– Label should indicate following:
• Name of active ingredient(s)
• Quantity (in mg. , gm., or %)
• Net content
• Batch
• Mfg. Date
• Exp. Date
• Manufactured by
• Marketed by
• Storage condition
• Direction
• Special instruction if any
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8. Evaluation parameters
– Consistency (viscosity)
– Skin irritation test
– Net content in the container
– Test for microbial growth
– Rancidity
– Color & physical appearance test
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9. Marketed Products
• Pond’s cold cream
• Ayur herbal cold cream
• Emani cold cream
• Aloe vera cold cream
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10. VANISHING CREAMS

11. • Creams spread easily & seem to disappear rapidly when rubbed
on skin are termed as vanishing creams.
• These are an o/w type of emulsions which when applied to the
skin leave an almost invisible layer on it so called vanishing
creams.
• These creams can be quickly washed off with water due to the
presence of o/w emulsifiers
DEFINITION
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12. • These creams are prepared by emulsification of stearic acid &
water by means of alkalies like NaOH, KOH, borax, triethanolamine
etc..
• Synonym: greaseless cream
• An oil-in-water emulsion containing potassium, ammonium, or
sodium stearate with water and holding in emulsified form more or
less free stearic acid;
General Discussion
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13. • It also contains a hygroscopic ingredient such as glycerol, and a
small amount of a fatty ingredient;
• It leaves a protective, invisible film of stearic acid on the skin.
• The main ingredients are:
• Stearic acid which gives pearly white shining appearance to the
cream, after application gives thin white film of free stearic
acid.
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14. • Stearic acid (550C)-- protective
• High quality is used bcoz to provide an oil phase, which melts
above body tempt.
• Provides non-greasy film
• Produce very attractive appearance
• KOH or NaOH :- to neutralize free fatty acid
• NaOH makes a harder cream than KOH.
• Triethanolamine is also used instead which makes preparation
easy & viable nature.
• borax is used to make white creams but product has tendency
to grain (small piece)
FORMULATION
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15. • Glycerin 10% of total
• Used to maintain consistency
• Enhance spreading ability
• Water in large qty. so preservative required to
prevent microbial growth
• Methyl parahydroxy benzoate (0.12%)
• Propyl parahydroxy benzoate (0.12%) in combination
• Perfume
• Sandalwood, lavender oil, linalol, rose, geraniol etc…
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16. • Stearic acid ---- 20%
• Cetyl alcohol ---- 0.5%
• Triethanolamine ---- 1.2%
• NaOH ---- 0.36%
• Glycerin ---- 8%
• Water ---- 69.94%
• Preservative ---- q.s.
• Perfume ---- q.s.
• Procedure:
– Weigh all ingredients & heat or melt Ist part ingredients (from 1to 3) in a
container
– Heat or melt IInd part ingredients in a beaker
– Add IInd part mixture to Ist part with continuous stirring
– Cool with continuous stirring
– Add perfume when tempt. is about 350 C.
– Mill it (uniform mixing)
Formula
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17. • Storage:
– Stored in a well closed container at a temperature not exceeds 250C.
– Stored in a cool place.
• Labeling:
– Label should indicate following:
• Name of active ingredient(s)
• Quantity (in mg. , gm., or %)
• Net content
• Batch
• Mfg. Date
• Exp. Date
• Manufactured by
• Marketed by
• Storage condition
• Direction
• Special instruction if any
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18. • Evaluation of vanishing creams:
– Rheology or viscosity
– Skin sensitivity or patch test
– Biological testing (antiseptic, hormones, vitamins etc..)
– Net content
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19. • Marketed Products:
– Lakme,
– Max-factor,
– Ponds,
– Charmis.
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20. CLEANSING
CREAMS

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DEFINITION
 These are cosmetic preparations used to be applied
on skin for removing the facial makeup.
 They are also used to improve the healthy & good
appearance to the skin
 These are same as cold creams but contains detergent
for cleaning action.
 They contain other ingredients which helps to soften,
lubricate or protect the skin.

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• Cleansing Cream is used to clean the face of makeup and the
dust before going to bed.
• The layers of makeup, dust and sweat remain as a coat on the
face and do not allow the skin breathe which may result in
wrinkles an dullness on skin.
• Cleansing Creams is made with a mixture of:
– stearic acid,
– mineral oil,
– lanolin,
– teropenol,
– tri-ethanomine,
– propylene glycol and
– perfume.

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• Functions of cleansing cream:
– Used to
• Remove facial makeup,
• Surface grime,
• Oil,
• Dead cells &
• Crusts

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Properties of cleansing cream:
The cleansing cream should possess the following:
 Be stable
 Good appearance
 Soften on application on skin
 Spread easily
 Not have oily or greasy feel during application
 No residue should remain after evaporation of water
 a thin emollient film should remain on the skin after its use

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Types of cleansing cream:
• Three types:
– Liquefied cleansing cream
– Emulsified cream of o/w type
– Emulsified creams of w/o type

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• Liquefied cleansing cream:
– Simple mixtures of mineral oils or synthetic fatty materials, with HC
waxes, paraffin wax etc..
– In modern formulations cetyl or stearyl alcohols are also included
– Example:
• Isopropyl myristate ---- 25%
• Liquid paraffin ---- 25%
• White soft paraffin ---- 30%
• Paraffin wax ---- 20%
– Procedure:
• Melt all ingredients in their decreasing order of m.p
• Cool with const. stirring until the product is little over solidifying point.
• Pour into final container & packed

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• Emulsified cream of o/w type:
– Bees wax – borax cream is an example of this type
• Example:
– Bees wax ---- 12%
– Liquid paraffin ---- 53%
– Bentonite ---- 0.7%
– Borax ---- 0.7%
– Water ---- 33.2%
– IPA ---- 0.4%
• Procedure:
– Triturate bentonite, IPA & part of liquid paraffin
– Heat it with beeswax at 750C.
– Dissolve borax in water at 700C
– Add into oily phase with stirring
– Continue stirring till the tempt. Comes down to 40 – 450C.
– Pour into final container & labeled it.

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• Emulsified creams of w/o type:
– These are stabilized by using non-ionic emulsifier
• Example:
– Liquid paraffin ---- 50%
– Paraffin wax ---- 5%
– Bentone ---- 0.7%
– Water ---- 43.9%
– IPA ---- 0.4%
• Procedure:
– Triturate bentonite, IPA & part of liquid paraffin to disperse bentone
– Gel is formed & heat it with paraffin wax & liquid paraffin to 750C
– Heat the water to 700C & mixed slowly with oil phase with stirring
– Continue the stirring till desired consistency is obtained
– Pour the emulsified into final container & packed

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• Storage:
– Stored in a well closed container at a temperature not
exceeds 250C.
– Stored in a cool place.
• Labeling:
– Label should indicate following:
• Name of active ingredient(s)
• Quantity (in mg. , gm., or %)
• Net content
• Batch
• Mfg. Date
• Exp. Date
• Manufactured by
• Marketed by
• Storage condition
• Direction
• Special instruction if any

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• Evaluation parameters:
– Consistency (viscosity)
– Skin irritation test
– Net content in the container
– Test for microbial growth
– Rancidity
– Color & physical appearance test

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• Marketed Products:
– Clarins
– Dove
– Rutina
– Gala,
– Lakme,
– Anne french
– Max-factor