Cosmetics are substances used to enhance one's appearance. This document discusses formulations for several common cosmetic products including lipsticks, shampoos, cold cream, vanishing cream, toothpastes, and hair dyes. It provides details on the ingredients, preparation methods, and evaluation of these products. The key components of lipsticks are oils, waxes, pigments and solvents which are mixed together and molded. Shampoos contain detergents, conditioning agents, and thickeners. Creams are oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions containing emollients, preservatives, and other additives. Toothpastes and hair dyes aim to clean

1. Cosmetics
1

2. Cosmetics
• Cosmetics are substances or products used to
enhance or alter the appearance or fragrance
of the body.
• Many cosmetics are designed for use of
applying to the face and hair.
2

3. U.S. FDA
• The U.S. FDA defines cosmetics as:
"intended to be applied to the human body for
cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness,
or altering the appearance without affecting the
body's structure or functions”
3

4. Cosmetics:
• Formulation and preparation of the following
cosmetic preparations:
1. Lipsticks
2. Shampoos
3. cold cream
4. vanishing cream
5. tooth pastes
6. Hair dyes
7. sunscreens
4

5. LIPSTICKS
• Lipstick is a cosmetic product containing pigments, oils,
waxes and emollients that apply color, texture and
protection to lips.
• some lipsticks are also lip balms, to add color and
hydration.
• These preparation do not damage the skin and are non
tacky.
• They typically involve a color change but also increases
shine and smooth out appearance of wrinkles and
folds on lips.
• They are a solid product housed in a molded packaging.
5

6. • HOW LIPSTICKS WORK
• Lipsticks are made from hydrophobic materials. When
the solid formula is applied to lip surface, friction
melts it briefly and allow for transfer.
• The materials cools and reforms creating that sticks to
surface due to hydrophobic interactions. Color is a key
ingredient of lipsticks.
• It gives an impression on lip surface. Silicones and oily
materials are also added to reflect light and provide
shine.
6

7. COMPOSITION INGREDIENTS
• STAINING DYES - 0.5-3 (%)
• OIL SOLUBLE PIGMENTS - 2 (%)
• INSOLUBLE PIGMENTS - 8-10(%)
• TITANIUM DIOXIDE - 1-4 (%)
7

8. • WAX MIXTURE: gloss and hardness of lipsticks are hardly
dependent on characteristics and the quantity of waxes used. So
composition of wax is of prime importance. Wax mixture includes
– White beeswax , Candelilla wax , Carnauba wax, Ozokerite wax, Ceresin
wax, Cetyl alcohol and cetostearyl alcohol
• OILS MIXTURE: the oil mixtures are required to blend properly
with waxes to provide a suitable film on lips. It also acts as
dispersing agent for insoluble pigments. Ideal mixture is one
which enables the product to spread easily.
– Castor oil, Tetrahydrofurfuryl alcohol and its esters Fatty acids alkyl amides, Paraffin
oil, Isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate and butyl stearate.
8

9. • SOLVENTS used are Tetrahydrofurfuryl alcohol and esters
Glycerol derivatives Propylene glycol, triethylene glycol,
propylene glycol.
• COLORS: the color of lipstick is most important commercial and
appealing view.
• the color is imparted by 2 ways: By staining the skin with a
solution of dyestuff which can penetrate the outer layer of lip
skin. By covering lips with colored layer.
• Commonly used dyes are:
– Staining dyes(soluble dyes) - flourescein, eosin.
– Insoluble dyestuff and lake colors-calcium, barium,
aluminium and strontium.
9

10. • PRESERVATIVES, PERFUMES,SURFACTANTS
AND OTHER ADDITIVES:
• Preservatives are used for prevention of growth of
microbes. E.g. methyl / propyl paraben.
• Perfume is used to mask the odor.
• Surfactants are used to promote wetting properties.
• Antioxidants are used to prevent rancidification.
– e.g. BHT, BHA. FATS: Petroleum jelly , lanolin , paraffin oil and
cocoa butter are used in this category. Provides emollient
and lubricating effects.
10

11. • First the raw materials like solvents,
oils and waxy material are melted in
separate stainless steel container.
• The solvents and oils are mixed with
color pigments.
• Then the mixture is passed through
roller mill grinding the pigments to
avoid grainy feel in lipsticks.
• after the pigment mass is grounded
and mixed it and added to hot wax
until uniform color and consistency is
obtained.
• MOLDING •Once the lipstick mass is
mixed and free of air, it is ready to be
poured in tubes.
11

12. CHARACTERISTICS
APPEARANCE:
• It has smooth surface with uniform color.
• It is free from defects which includes pinholes and grittiness.
• It should have stable shelf life.
• And should not eliminate color.
• It should be dermatological safe, non toxic and non irritant.
• It must consist of stable color easy to apply and stay on for
prolong period of time.
• Should not be excessive greasy or tacky.
• It should not melt at high temperature (45 degree) and
should not harden at cold temperature (7-10 degree).
• Selection of color and flavor should be acceptable and
pleasant.
12

13. • FORMULATION RELATED PROBLEMS
1. SWEATING: caused due to high oil content or inferior oil
binding.
2. BLEEDING: separation of colored liquids from waxy bases.
3. BLOOMING: due to higher percentage of cetyl alcohol.
4. STREAKING: expected to be caused due to titanium dioxide.
13

14. • EVALUATION PARAMETER
• Melting point evaluation should be done to know the
problems during handling and storage. The melting
point should generally be above 50 degree Celsius.
• breaking point of lipsticks should be evaluated for
conforming strength of lipsticks. Force of application to
evaluate the value of force to apply to surface.
• Stability is an important evaluation parameter .
stability for long time and short time are evaluated.
14

15. SHAMPOOS
15

16. • Shampoo is a preparation meant for cleaning hair
of dust, dirt, and also to impart luster and gloss to
hair.
• pH = 5-9
CLASSIFICATION:
• BASED ON APPEARANCE:
 clear liquid, liquid creams, clear gels, paste,
powder, dry.
• BASED ON FUNCTIONALITY:
 conditioning, therapeutic, anti-dandruff,
mild(baby), acid-balance shampoos.
16

17. INGREDIENTS
• DETERGENTS: sodium lauryl sulphate, sodium lauryl
sarcosinate.
• FOAM BOOSTERS and STABILIZERS: amide oxides, ethanol
amides.
• CONDITIONING AGENTS/EMOLIENS: glycol esters,
lanolin, fatty alcohols.
• VISCOSITY MODIFIERS/THICKENING AGENTS:
methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose
17

18. • OPACIFIERS/CLARIFYING AGENTS: higher fatty
alcohols, di glyceral stearates,
• HYDROTROPES: alcohols, glycols, sodium benzoate.
• PRESERVATIVES: methyl parabens, propyl parabens.
• SEQUESTERING AGENTS: sodium salts of EDTA,
sodium poly phosphates.
• ANTI- DANDRUFF SUBSTANCES: selenium sulphide,
selenium disulphide.
18

19. EVALUATION OF SHAMPOO
• Determination of foam height:
preparation of sample solution:
• Add 500ml of water to 10g of shampoo solution while stirring
in such a manner until misicibility of shampoo with water is
complete.
• Age the soln at a temperature of 30±20C for a total period of
30mins counting the time when the shampoo is first added to
water.
19

20. • DETERMINATION OF FREE CAUSTIC ALKALI:
Ethanol method:
• Weigh 2-10g of sample, add boiled ethanol freshly, digest until
soap is dissolved.
• Filter the content through, dried gooch/sintered glass crucible
(protecting soln from carbon di oxide & acid fumes, covering with
watch glass)
• Wash with hot ethanol still neutral to phenolphthalein, heat
filtrate to boiling
• Add 0.5ml of phenolphthalein & titrate with standard sulphuric
acid /Hcl
20

21. Matter insoluble in alcohol:
• 2-10g sample+200ml freshly boiled ethanol digest until soap
dissolves
• Filter into a filter flask through a tared, dried&counter
poised filter paper neutral to phenolphthalein, through
tared&dried gooch sintered glass crucible with suction,
protecting soln from carbon dioxide& acid fumes by covering
with watch glass.
• Wash several times with hot ethyl alcohol to remove all
alcohol soluble.
• Dry the filter paper crucible with the residue at 100±2ºC for
3hrs 7 cool . weigh total insoluble in alcohol.
21

22. Matter insoluble in alcohol % by mass =
• M-mass in g of matter insoluble in alcohol
• m -mass in g material taken for test
Determination of total fatty matter:
• 10g sample+100ml ethanol, insert a cork provided
with long tube to act as a reflux condenser&
immerse into boiling water bath, shaking till soap
dissolves
• Titrate with alcoholic soln with std NaoH soln.
Free fatty acid as oleic acid,% by mass=
100m/M
28.25V1N1/M
22

23. Determination of pH:
• At a temperature of 27ºC pH is determined, for
liquid shampoo, read pH directly from the sample in
the form of powder or paste, mix 1g sample with
9ml of water and determine the pH.
23

24. Cold cream and vanishing cream
24

25. Definition
• A cream is a topical preparation usually for
application to the skin. Pharmaceutical creams are
semisolid dosage forms containing one or more drug
substances dissolved or dispersed in a suitable base.
• Creams may also contain suitable antimicrobial or
preservatives unless the medicaments or basis have
sufficient bactericidal and fungicidal activity
25

26. Types of cream
• Creams are of two types:
1. Aqueous creams
2. Oily creams.
• In case of aqueous creams the emulsions are oil-in-
water type (Vanishing cream),
• and In case of oily creams emulsions are of water-in-oil
type (Cold cream).
26

27. VANISHING CREAM
• Spread easily & disappear rapidly
• These creams are composed of emollient ester
• vanishing creams were advertised as beauty creams, they
were also used as a base for face powders. Early loose
powders did not adhere well, particularly if the skin had been
cleansed with soap and water. Adhesion of the powder was
improved if the skin was coated with a surface cream.
27

28. • Some early vanishing creams – often called ‘snows’ or ‘foams’ – used
carbonates or bicarbonates as the alkali which released carbon dioxide
during the production process.
28
Stearic acid
Percentage (%)
17.0
Sodium carbonate 0.5
Potassium hydroxide 0.5
Glycerin 6.0
Water 71.0
Alcohol 4.5
Perfume 0.5

29. MOISTURIZING CREAM (Cold Cream)
• Dehydrated skin – moisturizing cream
• Moisturizing cream must provide a non – volatile residual film
• Humectant in the aqueous phase of the cream
29

30. Properties of a cream
30

31. Cold cream
31
White beeswax 22.0%
White mineral oil 50.8%
Distilled water 26.0%
Borax 0.8%
Perfume 0.4%

32. Materials
• Active ingredient: Drug or raw materials are used as active ingredient
• Base: Base is used as carrier of the drug.
• Preservative: Preservatives are used to protect the drug from microbial
content.
• Antioxidant: It is used to prevent oxidation of the drug that causes
degradation.
• Surfactant: Used to prevent surface tension of two immiscible phases.
• Complexing agent: It enhances the stability and prolongs action.
• Viscosity enhancer: Decrease the flow property of creams.
• Humectants: Protect the drug from moisture.
32

33. Preparation of creams
• Preparation of the oil phase: Flake/powder ingredients, sometimes dry
blended in advance, are dispersed into mineral oil or silicone oil. Heating
may be required to melt some ingredients.
• Hydration of aqueous phase ingredients: Emulsifiers, thickeners and
stabilizers are dispersed into water in a separate vessel. Heating may be
required to accelerate hydration.
• Forming the Emulsion: The two phases are blended under vigorous agitation
to form the emulsion.
• Dispersion of the active ingredient: The active ingredient often makes up
only a small proportion of the formulation; this must be efficiently dispersed
to maximize yield and product effectiveness.
33

34. Evaluation of creams
• A developed cream formulation is evaluated
pharmaceutically for various parameters such as:
 Rheological properties like apparent viscosity
 Stability
 pH
 External character
 Spread ability
 Drug diffusion
 Stability and primary skin irritation test on
animals and healthy human volunteers
34

35. USES
For Vanishing cream
• Used as adhesive for makeup
powders.
• Reduces loss of moisture from dry
skin.
• Smoothens the skin and keeps it
soft.
• Prevents skin from roughening
and chapping.
For Cold cream
• Typically used to cleanse the
face off makeup
• Heavily moisturises dry skin.
• Can also be used as a balm for
dry cracked lips.
• It can also be used as a shaving
cream alternative for men.
35

36. Toothpastes (Dentifrices)
• A dentifrice is a substance used with a toothbrush for the
purpose of cleaning the accessible surfaces of the teeth
(American Dental Association)
or
• Paste or gel cleaner used to clean and improve the aesthetic
or pleasing appearance and health of teeth.
36

37. How does toothpaste work on our teeth?
• Abrasives—Most toothpaste contain abrasive
ingredients that help scrub away stains and
plaque on your teeth.
• The abrasives have to be harsh on plaque but
gentle on your teeth so it does not damage
your enamel. This ingredient also helps to
polish your teeth so they look fresh and clean
after you brush your teeth
37

38. Common Ingredients in Toothpastes
AND THEIR USES
Constituent
1. Abrasive
2. Water
3. Humectants
4. Detergent
5. Thickening agent
6. Flavoring agent
7. Sweetening agent
8. Therapeutic agent(s)
9. Color or preservative
10.Binder
Purpose
• Cleaning/stain removal
• Solvent for ingredients
• Provide creamy texture
• Surfactant/foam builder
• Controls viscosity
• Improves taste
• Enhances flavor
• Active ingredient(s)
• Color or preservative
• Holds ingred. together
38

39. INGREDIENTS
39

40. Good tooth paste parameters
1.Easy to extrude from package
2.Does not run off the toothbrush
3.Holds its shape to a large extend after extrusion
4.Uniform
5.Not too hard
6.Disperses readily while the teeth are being brushed
7.Has shiny surface
8.pH of formulation between 4.0-9.0
40

41. Evaluation of Toothpaste
• Determination of spreadability
One gram of toothpaste placed on a glass slide (10 x 10 cm), cover
with another glass slide. Then carefully place two kg weight of on
covered glass slide (sliding, shall not take place). Measure the
spreading (in cm) of the toothpaste after 3 minutes. Repeating the
experiment and note the average value of three readings.
41

42. Foaming power
• Take a suspension of the
material in measuring
cylinder and shake the
suspension for 12 times.
And measure the volume
of the foam produced
after shaking for 5
minutes.
42

43. • Stability
• The toothpaste shall be stable, but not to be deteriorating, ferment and
segregate during normal storage conditions and usage. Stability of
toothpaste can be tested when it exposes to 45±20C for a period of 28
days. After storage, no phase separation, fermentation and gassing can
be observed. Also exposed to cool conditions such as 50C for 1 hour, no
obstruction of extrudable form from the container is observed.
43

44. Hair dyes ⁄ hair colorants
• Purpose to hide gray colour of hair to change
the colour of hair In olden days, naturally
occurring hair colouring agent lead sulphides
used to colour hair.
• Also henna, indigo used to colour the hairs.
44

45. Ideal characteristics of hair dyes:
 Ideal characteristics of hair dyes
 Non toxic & non-irritant to skin /hairs.
 Impart same color which indicate on its label.
 Easy to apply.
 Have reasonable stability or shelf life.
 Not dermatitics sensitizer.
 The colour that imparts to the hair must be stable to air,
light, water & shampoo
45

46. About our Hair
• Human hair is made of keratin,
water and dead cells
• Each strand of hair is made up of
three layers; Cuticle, Cortex &
Medulla
46

47. 47

48. CLASSIFICATION OF HAIR DYES:
1. Temporary colorants
2. Semi- permanent colorants
3. Permanent colorants
4. Lightner or bleaches
48

49. TEMPORARY COLORANTS
• Imparts colour to the hair for a short time.
• Washed off during 1st shampoo .
• It consists of a mixture of a suitable dyestuff with an acid either
in powder or liquid form.
Examble
1. Powder product simple mixture of dyestuff with citric / tartaric
acid in a sachet or capsule.
Use : content of package dissolved in 1/2 pint of warm water &
solution poured over the wet hair.
Mech : Penetration of color to the hair cuticle not to cortex or
medulla.
49

50. SEMI- PERMANENT COLORANTS
• Gives stronger colour to hairs.
• Withstand 6-8 subsequent shampoo.
• It is basic dyestuff of nitro-amino dyes-picric acid
(2,4-dinitro-6-aminophenol) 4-nitro-1-2-phenylene
diamine :Imparts red or yellow colour.
1. Anthraquinones:
1. gives blue color. ex:-1,4-diamino anthraquinones .
50

51. Offical FORMULA:
 Dissolve the dyestuff in a mixture of the alkyolamides&
anionic surfactant.
 Separately dissolve acid & quaternary ammoia.
 Comp. in the water & add colour to solution while stirring.
1. Quaternary amm.comp 12.0 g
2. Anionic surfactant 9.6 g
3. Lactic acid 4.8 g
4. Alkyloamides 12.0 g
5. Dyes stuff 1.2 g
6. Water 60.4 g
51

52. PERMANENT COLORANTS
 used to intensify the natural colour,
 completely change the colour of hairs
 give a shade near to natural colour of hair.
• It includes, Vegetable dyes
Ex : Henna: it contains powdered leaves of lawsonia alba, L .
spinosa, L. inemis.
1. Henna powder Henna leaves 10 g
2. Alcohol 44 g
3. Water 45.8 g
4. Perfumes 0.25 g
52

53. 2.Metallic hair dyes:
Metal oxies used to dye hairs.
a). Lead dyes: solution of lead acetate & it reduces action of
keratin, forms insoluble lead salts.
• Shades depend on concentration of lead used.
Formula
• Precipited sulphur 1.3 g
• Lead acetate 1.6 g
• Glycerine 9.6 g
• Water 87.5 g
b).Bismuth dyes: produce range of color from blond to dark
chestnut.
• Formula A Bismuth citrate 50 gm
Water 50 gm
53
Formula B Sodium thiosulphate 6 gm
Water 94 gm

54. c) Silver dyes
• The hair 1st treated with aq. ammonia solution of silver nitrate.
• After that solution of pyrogallol is applied.
• A greenish black color is produced
• Formula
SOLUTION 1
• Silver nitrate 5 gm
• Ammonium nitrate 3 gm
• Water To 100 gm
• Ammonium hydroxide q.S
54
SOLUTION 2
• Pyrogallol 4 gm
• Alcohol 46 gm
• Water 50 gm

55. Ligtner or bleaches
• It termed as decolorising preparation because they
lighten the natural colour.
• The destruction of melanin caused by use of oxidising
agent.
• Formula This powder mixture is to be mixed with
hydrogen peroxide before use.
1. Amm.bicarbonate 20 gm
2. Amm bosulphate 10 gm
3. Light mag carbonate 50 gm
4. Light ca carbonate 20 gm
55

56. Formulation of hair dyes:
• The main ingredient of formulation will be;
 Base: solution, emulsion, gel, powder
 Dyes: oxidation base
 Alkali; Ammonia
 Antioxidant: Ammonium thioglycolate
56

57. Mechanism of hair dyeing
• Uses a medium size molecule.
• causes a slight alkaline reaction to swell the hair shaft, causing
the cuticle to rise.
• This allows some color molecules to enter the cortex, and some
to coat the cuticle.
• A neutral or slightly acid after-rinse is used to stop the alkaline
swelling reaction, allow the cuticle to close, and trap the color
molecules inside.
• Less damaging than permanent dyes.
• Causes a mild chemical and physical change in the hair shaft.
57

58. Evaluation:
1. Sensitization test
2. Long term toxic effect
58

59. SUNSCREENS
59

60. • Why is it used?
– To protect the skin from UV radiation.
• Effects of UV light
– Short term
• Sunburn
– Long term
• Thickening
• Wrinkling
• Cancer
• Cataracts
60

61. UV Light
61
• UVC • Short-wavelength UVC is the most
damaging type of UV radiation.• However, it is
completely filtered by the atmosphere and does
not reach the earth's surface.
• UVB • Medium-wavelength UVB is very
biologically active but cannot penetrate beyond
the superficial skin layers. • Most common cause
of skin cancer. Most solar UVB is filtered by the
atmosphere.
• UVA • The relatively long-wavelength UVA
accounts for approximately 95 per cent of the UV
radiation reaching the Earth's surface. It can
penetrate into the deeper layers of the skin and
is responsible for the immediate tanning effect. •
Causes many of sun’s aging effects

62. UV light
• 3 types given off by the sun
1. UVC
– 100 – 290 nm
– Absorbed by the ozone and doesn’t affect the skin
2. UVB
– 290 – 320 nm
– Affects the outer layer of the skin and is the primary cause of
sunburn.
– Most intense between 10-2 and during the summer months.
3. UVA
– 320 – 400 nm
– Penetrates deeper into the skin and the intensity is more
constant than UVB without variations through the day and year.
62

63. UV Light
63

64. Damaging Effects
• Collagen Breakdown
– UV radiation increases breakdown and causes abnormal
elastin accumulation.
– Accumulation creates solar scars and wrinkles develop.
• Free Radicals
– Creates free radicals which damages cell function and alters
genetic material.
• Immune System
– Certain chemicals are released which suppresses the
system.
64

65. Sun Protection Factor (SPF)
• SPF measures sunscreen protection from UVB rays,
the kind that cause sunburn and contribute to skin
cancer. SPF does not measure how well a sunscreen
will protect from UVA rays, which are also damaging
and dangerous
65

66. Skin Cancer
3 main types
1. Melanoma
– Least common
– Most serious
2. Basal cell
– Most common
3. Squamous cell
– 2nd most common
• Basal and Squamous cell are often referred
to as non-melanoma skin cancer

67. SPF Rating
• Sun Protection Factor (SPF)
– Determined by the amount of light that induces redness in
sunscreen protected skin divided by the amount of light
that induces redness in unprotected skin.
– Ratings vary from SPF 1 to 45 or even higher.
• Example- SPF 15 would delay the onset of sunburn from
10 minutes to 150 minutes.
67

68. SPF Rating
– Ratings for various clothing items
1. Nylon Stockings - SPF 2
2. Caps - SPF 3-6
3. Summer-weight clothing - SPF 6.5
4. Sun-protective clothing - up to SPF 30
68

69. UV Index
• Model that relates ozone levels to UV radiation on the ground,
forecasted cloud amounts, and the elevation of the forecast
cities
Calculated by:
1. Starts with measurements of current total ozone amounts for the
entire globe
2. Amount of UV radiation reaching the ground determined from a
model
3. Data is weighted according to how human skin responds to UV
wavelengths.
4. Multiply actual incoming radiation level by the weighting and are
totaled to give overall UV radiation
69

70. UV Index
5.Estimates are then adjusted for the effects of elevation and clouds
6.Value is scaled by a conversion factor of 25 and rounded to the nearest whole
number
Exposure Category Index Number Sun Protection Messages
LOW <2
Wear sunglasses on bright days. In winter, reflection off snow can nearly double
UV strength. If you burn easily, cover up and use sunscreen.
MODERATE 3-5
Take precautions, such as covering up and using sunscreen, if you will be
outside.
Stay in shade near midday when the sun is strongest.
HIGH 6-7
Protection against sunburn is needed.
Reduce time in the sun between 11 a.m. and 4 p.m.
Cover up, wear a hat and sunglasses, and use sunscreen.
VERY HIGH 8-10
Take extra precautions. Unprotected skin will be damaged and can burn quickly.
Try to avoid the sun between 11 a.m. and 4 p.m. Otherwise, seek shade, cover
up, wear a hat and sunglasses, and use sunscreen.
EXTREME 11+
Take all precautions. Unprotected skin can burn in minutes. Beachgoers should
know that white sand and other bright surfaces reflect UV and will increase
UV exposure.
Avoid the sun between 11 a.m. and 4 p.m.
Seek shade, cover up, wear a hat and sunglasses, and use sunscreen.
70

71. Protection Problems
• Sunscreens offer full protection against UVB, but not
UVA.
• Very few sunscreen ingredients protect against UVA.
• FDA regulations slow approval of new sunscreens for
the public.
71

72. UVA/B Filters
Permitted Active Ingredients (Maximum Concentrations)
1. Aminobenzoic acid (15%)
2. Avobenzone (3%)
3. Cinoxate (3%)
4. Dioxybenzone (3%)
5. Homosalate (15%)
6. Menthyl anthranilate (5%)
7. Octocrylene (10%)
8. Octyl methoxycinnamate (7.5%)
9. Octyl salicylate (5%)
10. Oxybenzone (6%)
11. Padimate O (8%)
12. Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (4%)
13. Sulisobenzone (10%)
14. Titanium dioxide (25%)
15. Trolamine salicylate (12%)
16. Zinc oxide (25%)
72

73. UVA Radiation
• Some sunscreens can block UVA, but not
effectively.
– Aminobenzoic Acid stains clothing and can cause adverse
reactions
– Avobenzone quickly loses potency when applied to the
skin.
– Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are difficult to incorporate
into formulations.
– Sulisobenzone and dioxybenzone are difficult to solubilize
and are rarely used.
73

74. FDA Regulations
– Not only acts as a water-dispersible UV absorber, but its
particles can also scatter and reflect light
• The sunscreen particles are relatively large, so there would
be little chance that Tinosorb M and S could be absorbed
through the skin and pose a threat to our health.
• Mexoryl
• Broader range of UVA protection
• 2 versions
1. Mexoryl SX
• soluble, photostable, absorbent, odorless, non-staining
2. Mexoryl XL
• reinforces and extends the protection offered by SX
74

75. Solutions/Alternatives
• Sunscreen suppliers currently modify
approved sunscreens
– Process for approval takes a long time
– Ultrafine titanium dioxide sunscreen doped with
0.7% manganese
• Manganese changes the rutile pigment's electronic
structure, eliminating its potential to generate free
radicals
• Manganese also makes the pigment a better UV-A filter
than undoped titanium dioxide
75

76. Solutions/Alternatives
– Diethyl hexyl syringylidene malonate, stabilizer
• Singlet oxygen quencher that will effectively boost the
sunscreen's photostability
• Increase effectiveness of the UV-A sunscreen
avobenzone
– SPF Boosters
• Styrene acrylate copolymer
– Hollow spheres refract light and thereby increase the chance
that light will contact UV filters
– Boost SPF by 50 to 70%
76

77. Solutions/Alternatives
• Emulsifying wax
– Blend of phosphate esters and fatty alcohol
– Boost SPF values by 15 to 20%
77

78. 78