Cosmetics are substances used to enhance appearance without affecting the body's structure or functions. Common cosmetics include lipsticks, shampoos, cold cream, toothpastes, and hair dyes. Lipsticks contain pigments, oils, and waxes that apply color and texture to lips. Shampoos clean hair and add luster using detergents, oils, and thickeners. Cold cream and vanishing cream moisturize skin using oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions. Toothpastes clean teeth using abrasives while providing flavor. Hair dyes impart color to hair through temporary, semi-permanent, or permanent formulations containing dye compounds.

1. Cosmetics
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Cosmetics
• Cosmetics are substances or products used to
enhance or alter the appearance or fragrance
of the body.
• Many cosmetics are designed for use of
applying to the face and hair.

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U.S. FDA
• The U.S. FDA defines cosmetics as:
"intended to be applied to the human body for
cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness,
or altering the appearance without affecting the
body's structure or functions”

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Cosmetics:
• Formulation and preparation of the following
cosmetic preparations:
1. Lipsticks
2. Shampoos
3. cold cream
4. vanishing cream
5. tooth pastes
6. Hair dyes
7. sunscreens

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LIPSTICKS
• Lipstick is a cosmetic product containing pigments, oils,
waxes and emollients that apply color, texture and
protection to lips.
• some lipsticks are also lip balms, to add color and
hydration.
• These preparation do not damage the skin and are non
tacky.
• They typically involve a color change but also increases
shine and smooth out appearance of wrinkles and
folds on lips.
• They are a solid product housed in a molded packaging.

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• HOW LIPSTICKS WORK
• Lipsticks are made from hydrophobic materials. When
the solid formula is applied to lip surface, friction
melts it briefly and allow for transfer.
• The materials cools and reforms creating that sticks to
surface due to hydrophobic interactions. Color is a key
ingredient of lipsticks.
• It gives an impression on lip surface. Silicones and oily
materials are also added to reflect light and provide
shine.

10. COMPOSITION INGREDIENTS
• STAINING DYES
• OIL SOLUBLE PIGMENTS
• INSOLUBLE PIGMENTS
• TITANIUM DIOXIDE
- 0.5-3 (%)
- 2 (%)
- 8-10(%)
- 1-4 (%)
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• WAX MIXTURE: gloss and hardness of lipsticks are hardly
dependent on characteristics and the quantity of waxes used. So
composition of wax is of prime importance. Wax mixture includes
– White beeswax , Candelilla wax , Carnauba wax, Ozokerite wax, Ceresin
wax, Cetyl alcohol and cetostearyl alcohol
• OILS MIXTURE: the oil mixtures are required to blend properly
with waxes to provide a suitable film on lips. It also acts as
dispersing agent for insoluble pigments. Ideal mixture is one
which enables the product to spread easily.
– Castor oil, Tetrahydrofurfuryl alcohol and its esters Fatty acids alkyl amides, Paraffin
oil, Isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate and butyl stearate.

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• SOLVENTS used are Tetrahydrofurfuryl alcohol and esters
Glycerol derivatives Propylene glycol, triethylene glycol,
propylene glycol.
• COLORS: the color of lipstick is most important commercial and
appealing view.
• the color is imparted by 2 ways: By staining the skin with a
solution of dyestuff which can penetrate the outer layer of lip
skin. By covering lips with colored layer.
• Commonly used dyes are:
– Staining dyes(soluble dyes) - flourescein, eosin.
– Insoluble dyestuff and lake colors-calcium, barium,
aluminium and strontium.

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• PRESERVATIVES, PERFUMES,SURFACTANTS
AND OTHER ADDITIVES:
• Preservatives are used for prevention of growth of
microbes. E.g. methyl / propyl paraben.
• Perfume is used to mask the odor.
• Surfactants are used to promote wetting properties.
• Antioxidants are used to prevent rancidification.
– e.g. BHT, BHA. FATS: Petroleum jelly , lanolin , paraffin oil and
cocoa butter are used in this category. Provides emollient
and lubricating effects.

14. • First the raw materials like solvents,
oils and waxy material are melted in
separate stainless steel container.
• The solvents and oils are mixed with
color pigments.
• Then the mixture is passed through
roller mill grinding the pigments to
avoid grainy feel in lipsticks.
• after the pigment mass is grounded
and mixed it and added to hot wax
until uniform color and consistency is
obtained.
• MOLDING •Once the lipstick mass is
mixed and free of air, it is ready to be
poured in tubes.
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CHARACTERISTICS
APPEARANCE:
• It has smooth surface with uniform color.
• It is free from defects which includes pinholes and grittiness.
• It should have stable shelf life.
• And should not eliminate color.
• It should be dermatological safe, non toxic and non irritant.
• It must consist of stable color easy to apply and stay on for
prolong period of time.
• Should not be excessive greasy or tacky.
• It should not melt at high temperature (45 degree) and
should not harden at cold temperature (7-10 degree).
• Selection of color and flavor should be acceptable and
pleasant.

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• FORMULATION RELATED PROBLEMS
1. SWEATING: caused due to high oil content or inferior oil
binding.
2. BLEEDING: separation of colored liquids from waxy bases.
3. BLOOMING: due to higher percentage of cetyl alcohol.
4. STREAKING: expected to be caused due to titanium dioxide.

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• EVALUATION PARAMETER
• Melting point evaluation should be done to know the
problems during handling and storage. The melting
point should generally be above 50 degree Celsius.
• breaking point of lipsticks should be evaluated for
conforming strength of lipsticks. Force of application to
evaluate the value of force to apply to surface.
• Stability is an important evaluation parameter .
stability for long time and short time are evaluated.

23. SHAMPOOS
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• Shampoo is a preparation meant for cleaning hair
of dust, dirt, and also to impart luster and gloss to
hair.
• pH = 5-9
CLASSIFICATION:
• BASED ON APPEARANCE:
 clear liquid, liquid creams, clear gels, paste,
powder, dry.
• BASED ON FUNCTIONALITY:
 conditioning, therapeutic, anti-dandruff,
mild(baby), acid-balance shampoos.

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INGREDIENTS
• DETERGENTS: sodium lauryl sulphate, sodium lauryl
sarcosinate.
• FOAM BOOSTERS and STABILIZERS: amide oxides, ethanol
amides.
• CONDITIONING AGENTS/EMOLIENS: glycol esters,
lanolin, fatty alcohols.
• VISCOSITY MODIFIERS/THICKENING AGENTS:
methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose

40. Cold cream and vanishing cream
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Definition
• A cream is a topical preparation usually for
application to the skin. Pharmaceutical creams are
semisolid dosage forms containing one or more drug
substances dissolved or dispersed in a suitable base.
• Creams may also contain suitable antimicrobial or
preservatives unless the medicaments or basis have
sufficient bactericidal and fungicidal activity

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Types of cream
• Creams are of two types:
1. Aqueous creams
2. Oily creams.
• In case of aqueous creams the emulsions are oil-in-
water type (Vanishing cream),
• and In case of oily creams emulsions are of water-in-oil
type (Cold cream).

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Preparation of creams
• Preparation of the oil phase: Flake/powder ingredients, sometimes dry
blended in advance, are dispersed into mineral oil or silicone oil. Heating
may be required to melt some ingredients.
• Hydration of aqueous phase ingredients: Emulsifiers, thickeners and
stabilizers are dispersed into water in a separate vessel. Heating may be
required to accelerate hydration.
• Forming the Emulsion: The two phases are blended under vigorous agitation
to form the emulsion.
• Dispersion of the active ingredient: The active ingredient often makes up
only a small proportion of the formulation; this must be efficiently dispersed
to maximize yield and product effectiveness.

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USES
For Vanishing cream
• Used as adhesive for makeup
powders.
• Reduces loss of moisture from dry
skin.
• Smoothens the skin and keeps it
soft.
• Prevents skin from roughening
and chapping.
For Cold cream
• Typically used to cleanse the
face off makeup
• Heavily moisturises dry skin.
• Can also be used as a balm for
dry cracked lips.
• It can also be used as a shaving
cream alternative for men.

45. VANISHING CREAM
• Spread easily & disappear rapidly
• These creams are composed of emollient ester
• vanishing creams were advertised as beauty creams, they
were also used as a base for face powders. Early loose
powders did not adhere well, particularly if the skin had been
cleansed with soap and water. Adhesion of the powder was
improved if the skin was coated with a surface cream.
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48. Cold Cream
• Dehydrated skin – moisturizing cream
• Moisturizing cream must provide a non – volatile residual film
• Humectant in the aqueous phase of the cream
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49. Properties of a cream
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Materials
• Active ingredient: Drug or raw materials are used as active ingredient
• Base: Base is used as carrier of the drug.
• Preservative: Preservatives are used to protect the drug from microbial
content.
• Antioxidant: It is used to prevent oxidation of the drug that causes
degradation.
• Surfactant: Used to prevent surface tension of two immiscible phases.
• Complexing agent: It enhances the stability and prolongs action.
• Viscosity enhancer: Decrease the flow property of creams.
• Humectants: Protect the drug from moisture.

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Evaluation of creams
• A developed cream formulation is evaluated
pharmaceutically for various parameters such as:
 Rheological properties like apparent viscosity
 Stability
 pH
 External character
 Spread ability
 Drug diffusion
 Stability and primary skin irritation test on
animals and healthy human volunteers

58. Toothpastes (Dentifrices)
• A dentifrice is a substance used with a toothbrush for the
purpose of cleaning the accessible surfaces of the teeth
(American Dental Association)
or
• Paste or gel cleaner used to clean and improve the aesthetic
or pleasing appearance and health of teeth.
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How does toothpaste work on our teeth?
• Abrasives—Most toothpaste contain abrasive
ingredients that help scrub away stains and
plaque on your teeth.
• The abrasives have to be harsh on plaque but
gentle on your teeth so it does not damage
your enamel. This ingredient also helps to
polish your teeth so they look fresh and clean
after you brush your teeth

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Common Ingredients in Toothpastes
AND THEIR USES
Constituent
1. Abrasive
2. Water
3. Humectants
4. Detergent
5. Thickening agent
6. Flavoring agent
7. Sweetening agent
8. Therapeutic agent(s)
9.Color or preservative
10.Binder
Purpose
• Cleaning/stain removal
• Solvent for ingredients
• Provide creamy texture
• Surfactant/foam builder
• Controls viscosity
• Improves taste
• Enhances flavor
• Active ingredient(s)
• Color or preservative
• Holds ingred. together

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Good tooth paste parameters
1.Easy to extrude from package
2.Does not run off the toothbrush
3.Holds its shape to a large extend after extrusion
4.Uniform
5.Not too hard
6.Disperses readily while the teeth are being brushed
7.Has shiny surface
8.pH of formulation between 4.0-9.0

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Hair dyes ⁄ hair colorants
• Purpose to hide gray colour of hair to change
the colour of hair In olden days, naturally
occurring hair colouring agent lead sulphides
used to colour hair.
• Also henna, indigo used to colour the hairs.

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Ideal characteristics of hair dyes:
 Ideal characteristics of hair dyes
 Non toxic & non-irritant to skin /hairs.
 Impart same color which indicate on its label.
 Easy to apply.
 Have reasonable stability or shelf life.
 Not dermatitics sensitizer.
 The colour that imparts to the hair must be stable to air,
light, water & shampoo

79. About our Hair
• Human hair is made of keratin,
water and dead cells
• Each strand of hair is made up of
three layers; Cuticle, Cortex &
Medulla
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CLASSIFICATION OF HAIR DYES:
1. Temporary colorants
2. Semi- permanent colorants
3. Permanent colorants
4. Lightner or bleaches

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TEMPORARY COLORANTS
• Imparts colour to the hair for a short time.
• Washed off during 1st shampoo .
• It consists of a mixture of a suitable dyestuff with an acid either
in powder or liquid form.
Examble
1. Powder product simple mixture of dyestuff with citric / tartaric
acid in a sachet or capsule.
Use : content of package dissolved in 1/2 pint of warm water &
solution poured over the wet hair.
Mech : Penetration of color to the hair cuticle not to cortex or
medulla.

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SEMI- PERMANENT COLORANTS
• Gives stronger colour to hairs.
• Withstand 6-8 subsequent shampoo.
• It is basic dyestuff of nitro-amino dyes-picric acid
(2,4-dinitro-6-aminophenol) 4-nitro-1-2-phenylene
diamine :Imparts red or yellow colour.
1. Anthraquinones:
1. gives blue color. ex:-1,4-diamino anthraquinones .

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Offical FORMULA:
 Dissolve the dyestuff in a mixture of the alkyolamides&
anionic surfactant.
 Separately dissolve acid & quaternary ammoia.
 Comp. in the water & add colour to solution while stirring.
1. Quaternary amm.comp 12.0 g
2. Anionic surfactant 9.6 g
3. Lactic acid 4.8 g
4. Alkyloamides 12.0 g
5. Dyes stuff 1.2 g
6. Water 60.4 g

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PERMANENT COLORANTS
 used to intensify the natural colour,
 completely change the colour of hairs
 give a shade near to natural colour of hair.
• It includes, Vegetable dyes
Ex : Henna: it contains powdered leaves of lawsonia alba, L .
spinosa, L. inemis.
1. Henna powder Henna leaves
2. Alcohol
3. Water
4. Perfumes
10 g
44 g
45.8 g
0.25 g

86. 2.Metallic hair dyes:
Metal oxies used to dye hairs.
a). Lead dyes: solution of lead acetate & it reduces action of
keratin, forms insoluble lead salts.
• Shades depend on concentration of lead used.
Formula
• Precipited sulphur
• Lead acetate
• Glycerine
• Water
1.3 g
1.6 g
9.6 g
87.5 g
b).Bismuth dyes: produce range of color from blond to dark
chestnut.
• Formula A Bismuth citrate 50 gm Formula B
Water 50 gm
Sodium thiosulphate 6 gm
Water 94 gm
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c) Silver dyes
• The hair 1st treated with aq. ammonia solution of silver nitrate.
• After that solution of pyrogallol is applied.
• A greenish black color is produced
• Formula
SOLUTION 1
• Silver nitrate 5 gm
• Ammonium nitrate 3 gm
• Water To 100 gm
• Ammonium hydroxide q.S
SOLUTION 2
• Pyrogallol 4 gm
• Alcohol 46 gm
• Water 50 gm

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Ligtner or bleaches
• It termed as decolorising preparation because they
lighten the natural colour.
• The destruction of melanin caused by use of oxidising
agent.
• Formula This powder mixture is to be mixed with
hydrogen peroxide before use.
1. Amm.bicarbonate 20 gm
2. Amm bosulphate 10 gm
3. Light mag carbonate 50 gm
4. Light ca carbonate 20 gm

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Formulation of hair dyes:
• The main ingredient of formulation will be;
 Base: solution, emulsion, gel, powder
 Dyes: oxidation base
 Alkali; Ammonia
 Antioxidant: Ammonium thioglycolate

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Mechanism of hair dyeing
• Uses a medium size molecule.
• causes a slight alkaline reaction to swell the hair shaft, causing
the cuticle to rise.
• This allows some color molecules to enter the cortex, and some
to coat the cuticle.
• A neutral or slightly acid after-rinse is used to stop the alkaline
swelling reaction, allow the cuticle to close, and trap the color
molecules inside.
• Less damaging than permanent dyes.
• Causes a mild chemical and physical change in the hair shaft.

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Evaluation:
1. Sensitization test
2. Long term toxic effect

92. SUNSCREENS
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