Introduction to Hair Bleaches & Hair Colourants, Bleaching Agents, Formulation of Bleaching Agents Manufacture of Bleaching Agents, Hair Colourants Formulation of Hair Colourants Presented by A. Siddartha Tharun Teja Department of Industrial Pharmacy

1. RIPER
AUTONOMOUS
NAAC &
NBA (UG)
SIRO- DSIR
Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous
K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721 1
Hair Bleaches & Hair Colourants
A Seminar as a part of curricular requirement
for M. Pharm I year I semester
Presented by
A.Siddartha Tharun Teja
Reg. No. 20L81S0804
Department of Industrial Pharmacy
Under the guidance/Mentorship of
Dr. C. Haranath M.Pharm Ph.D
Associate Professor
Department of Industrial Pharmacy

2. RIPER
AUTONOMOUS
NAAC &
NBA (UG)
SIRO- DSIR
Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous
K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721
Contents
Introduction
Bleaching Agents
Formulation of Bleaching Agents
Manufacture of Bleaching Agents
Hair Colourants
Formulation of Hair Colourants
References

3. RIPER
AUTONOMOUS
NAAC &
NBA (UG)
SIRO- DSIR
Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous
K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721
Introduction
•Dissatisfaction with the colour of hair man has been using different
materials to change the colour of hair from early times.
•Metallic compounds and plant materials have been used for a long time.
•The discovery of organic compounds to dye animal fibres gave momentum to the
development of new kind of hair colourants.
•These products can be classified into following categories:
Bleaching agents,
Temporary colourants,
Natural organic colourants,
Synthetic organic colourants , and
Inorganic colourants.
3

4. RIPER
AUTONOMOUS
NAAC &
NBA (UG)
SIRO- DSIR
Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous
K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721
Bleaching Agents
oBleaching of hair can be done to reduce the original colour.
oLike hair colourants, these have been also using since a long time.
oMaterials like rock alum, quicklime, and wood ash used in olden times.
oNow a days hydrogen peroxide is used.
oE.H.Thiellay of London & Leon Hugo of Paris discovered its bleaching effect.
4

5. RIPER
AUTONOMOUS
NAAC &
NBA (UG)
SIRO- DSIR
Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous
K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721
Formulation:
Solutions of hydrogen peroxide are available.
They are stabilized with chemicals such as Acetanilide, Dilute acids,
and Sodium stannate.
Barium and Sodium peroxides have been used to produce hydrogen
peroxide.
Bleaching preparations have been formulated in different forms like,
i. Pastes,
ii. Powders,
iii. Liquids, and
iv. Creams.
5

6. RIPER
AUTONOMOUS
NAAC &
NBA (UG)
SIRO- DSIR
Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous
K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721
Bleaching Pastes:
•They can be prepared by mixing hydrogen peroxide solution with absorbent water.
•The paste so formed is easier to apply, doesn’t run and acts only where it is applied.
•In this the powder is suitably mixed with hydrogen peroxide, this is sold as “White
Henna”.
Ingredient Quantity
(%)
Magnesium carbonate (Light) 55
Calcium carbonate 15
Ammonium bi-carbonate 20
Ammonium bi-sulphate 10
6

7. RIPER
AUTONOMOUS
NAAC &
NBA (UG)
SIRO- DSIR
Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous
K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721
Bleaching Powders:
•The powders are also same as that of pastes but instead of mixing with
hydrogen peroxide, these will be mixed with water.
•So, these are composed of composed of absorbents like Mg. carbonate,
Cal. carbonate, Peroxides and mild alkali.
Ingredients Quantity (%)
Mg. carbonate (Light) 45
Cal. carbonate (Light) 15
Sodium peroxide 10
Sodium sulphate (Anhydrous) 10
Ammonium bi-carbonate 10
Ammonium bi-sulphate 10
7

8. RIPER
AUTONOMOUS
NAAC &
NBA (UG)
SIRO- DSIR
Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous
K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721
Bleaching Liquids:
•Liquid bleaches are generally sold as two solutions pack.
•One pack containing stabilized hydrogen peroxide (20-25 volumes) and the
other containing the activator.
•The activator is generally a concentrated soap solution.
•This preparations are also called as Bleaching Oil.
•In the following formula is an example of an activator based on oleate soap.
Ingredients Quantity (%)
Oleic acid 45
Triethanolamine 13
Alcohol 20
Ammonium hydroxide 22
Perfume Quantity sufficient
8

9. RIPER
AUTONOMOUS
NAAC &
NBA (UG)
SIRO- DSIR
Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous
K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721
Bleaching Creams:
•Cream bleach can be prepared by incorporating a surfactant in the formulation of
oil bleach.
•A thickening agent also be used in the preparation , if required.
Ingredients Quantity (%)
Oleic acid 40
Triethanolamine 12
Alcohol 18
Ammonium hydroxide 20
Sodium lauryl ether sulphate 10
9

10. RIPER
AUTONOMOUS
NAAC &
NBA (UG)
SIRO- DSIR
Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous
K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721
Manufacture of Hair bleaches:
Many bleaching preparations require use of hydrogen peroxide solution.
Hydrogen peroxide is commercially available in solution form containing
35-50% of hydrogen peroxide.
Solutions containing 3-4% (producing 10-12 volumes of oxygen) and 5-
6% (producing 17-20 volumes of oxygen) are required to be made.
Only de-mineralized or distilled water should be used because metallic
ions cause catalytic decomposition of hydrogen peroxide.
Mixing is carried out in stainless steel or glass-lined vessels.
Acetanilide (450ppm) can be used as a stabilizer.
Stability can also be improved by adjusting pH to 4.0 by using phosphoric
acid.
10

11. RIPER
AUTONOMOUS
NAAC &
NBA (UG)
SIRO- DSIR
Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous
K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721
Bleach powders are prepared by grinding (if necessary) the ingredients
except oxidizing agent and blending them in mixer.
Before blending, oxidizing agent should be mixed with a small portion of
the base and then it should be mixed with the bulk.
Since inert powders like Sodium sulphate (anhydrous), Mg.oxide (light), or
alkali they may vary in density.

12. RIPER
AUTONOMOUS
NAAC &
NBA (UG)
SIRO- DSIR
Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous
K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721
Hair Colourants
In general, the reasons for colouring the hair are:
To change the natural colour of hair,
To colour the grey hair,
To change the colour of the hair temporarily for a particular occasion.
• To achieve this objectives, a variety of materials are used.
• To select a material, one should know the ideal characteristics possessed by
a hair colourant.

13. RIPER
AUTONOMOUS
NAAC &
NBA (UG)
SIRO- DSIR
Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous
K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721
An ideal hair colourant should possess the following characteristics:
oIt should colour the hair without reducing natural gloss and without impairing its
texture.
oIt should not injure the hair shaft.
oIt should not be irritant.
oIt should not have systemic toxicity.
oIt should be stable to physical factors like air, sunlight, friction and chemical
factors like sweat.

14. RIPER
AUTONOMOUS
NAAC &
NBA (UG)
SIRO- DSIR
Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous
K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721
Depending upon their effect as to how long it lasts, hair colourants can
be divided into three groups namely:
a. Temporary hair colourants,
b. Semi-permanent hair colourants, and
c. Permanent hair colourants.

15. RIPER
AUTONOMOUS
NAAC &
NBA (UG)
SIRO- DSIR
Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous
K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721
Formulation
Temporary hair colourants:
•These are composed of dye stuff and acid. Sometimes these are referred to as
water rinses.
•These colourants do not penetrate into the medulla or cortex, they are absorbed
on to hair cuticle.
•As such, the dye can be removed easily with a shampoo. Hence known as hair
temporary hair colourants.
•The dye stuffs which have been include basic dyes, acid dyes, and metallized
dyes and largely includes azo, anthraquinone, phenazine.
•These colourants are formulated as powders, crayons, liquids and shampoos.

16. RIPER
AUTONOMOUS
NAAC &
NBA (UG)
SIRO- DSIR
Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous
K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721
Ingredients Quantity (%)
Stearic acid 15
Triethanolamine 7
Beeswax 50
Carnauba wax 13
Ozokerite 7
Glyceryl monostearate 6
Gum tragacanth 2
Colour Quantity sufficient
Formula

17. RIPER
AUTONOMOUS
NAAC &
NBA (UG)
SIRO- DSIR
Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous
K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721
Method of Preparation:
•Heat triethanolamine, glyceryl monostearate and gum tragacanth to 70o C.
•Add stearic acid and heat further and raise temparature to 75o C.
•Melt waxes separately at about 75o C – 80o C, add molten waxes to the
previous mixture and stir well to complete blending.
•Add colour and mix thoroughly. Pour into moulds for cooling.

18. RIPER
AUTONOMOUS
NAAC &
NBA (UG)
SIRO- DSIR
Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous
K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721
Semi-permanent hair colourants:
•These products lasts long than temporary colour shampoos.
•Some colour will be removed in each shampooing and will be removed
completely in 6-8 shampooings.
•The dyes which are used in this are largely belong to nitrophenylenediamines,
nitroaminophenols and aminoanthraquinones.
•However, before preparing colour shades, effect of dye should be studied on
white wool or hair.

19. RIPER
AUTONOMOUS
NAAC &
NBA (UG)
SIRO- DSIR
Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous
K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721
The factors which may be taken into consideration are:
Solubility of the dye in water.
Composition of the vehicle or base of the formulation.
Effect of pH value on the dye.
Effect of solvents which may be added to the formulation.

20. RIPER
AUTONOMOUS
NAAC &
NBA (UG)
SIRO- DSIR
Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous
K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721
Formula
Ingredients Quantity (%)
Quarternary ammonium compound 10-12
Anionic surfactant 8-10
Acid 6-8
Alkanolamide 4-6
Dye stuff 1-2
Water Upto 100
Method of Preparation:
•First dissolve the dye in a mixture of alkalonamide and anionic surfactant.
•Next dissolve acid and quarternary ammonium compound in water.
•Add aqeous solution to the dye solution with stirring.

21. RIPER
AUTONOMOUS
NAAC &
NBA (UG)
SIRO- DSIR
Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous
K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721
Permanent hair colourants:
•The effect of permanent hair colourants lasts for longer period than semi-
permanent hair colourants.
•The earliest permanent hair dyes were obtained from plants.
•Infusions, decoctions or packs of plants were used.
•One of the plant material which is still used is Henna leaves.
•Henna contains an active principle, Lawsone (2-hydroxy-1,4-napthaquinone)
which is substantive to Keratin.
•The main advantage of henna are that it is non-toxic and does not cause
sensitization reactions.

22. RIPER
AUTONOMOUS
NAAC &
NBA (UG)
SIRO- DSIR
Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous
K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721
•But preparation of henna paste, its application etc., are laborious process.
•But repeated use of henna packs may give an un-natural reddish-auburn
colour and may cause staining of hands and finger nails.
•This shade however, can be modified by adding ingredients like indigo plant
leaves or synthetic indigo.
•Pyrogallic acid and metallic salts (e.g., copper sulphate) are other additives
used with henna.
Formula
Ingredients Quantity (%)
Powdered henna 89
Pyrogallic acid 6
Copper sulphate 5

23. RIPER
AUTONOMOUS
NAAC &
NBA (UG)
SIRO- DSIR
Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous
K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721
References
Sharma P.P, Cosmetic-Formulation, Manufacturing and Quality Control,
Vandana Publications, Delhi, 1998.
Mithal BM and Saha RN, A Handbook of Cosmetics, Delhi Vallabh
Prakashan, 1st Edition, 2006.

24. RIPER
AUTONOMOUS
NAAC &
NBA (UG)
SIRO- DSIR
Raghavendra Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research - Autonomous
K.R.Palli Cross, Chiyyedu, Anantapuramu, A. P- 515721
Thank you