2. • PRINCIPLES OF FORMULATION
• While formulating most of the formulation are in
the form of creams.
• A cream is a preparation usually for application
to the skin.
• Creams for application to mucous membranes
such as those of the rectum or vagina are also
used.
• Creams may be considered pharmaceutical
products as even cosmetic creams are based on
techniques developed by pharmacy and
unmedicated creams are highly used in a variety
of skin conditions (dermatitis).
3. • Creams are semisolid emulsion of oil and
water they divide into two types: oil in water
type of creams (O/W) which are composed of
small droplets of oil dispersed in a continuous
water phase and water in oil creams (W/O)
which are composed of small droplet of water
dispersed in a continuous oily phase.
4. Functions:
• 1. The provisions of barrier to protect the skin
(this may be physical barrier or a chemical
barrier with sunscreens).
• 2. To aid in the retention of moisture.
• 3. Cleansing action.
• 4. Emollient action.
• 5. As a vehicle for drug substances such as
local anesthetics, anti-inflammatory,
hormones, antibiotics, antifungal.
• 6. As a foundation for other cosmetics.
5. • Most commonly available creams are classified on
the basis of their function as cold cream, cleansing
cream, vanishing cream, shaving cream, massage
cream, moisturizing cream, hand and body cream
and all purpose cream.
• VANISHING CREAM
• Vanishing cream gets their name from the fact they
seem to disappear when spread on the skin.
• Chemical composition: Vanishing cream which can
also be called stearate creams was known for their
smooth, dry feel on the skin and their pearly shine.
• Chemically they are oil in water emulsion consisting
of stearic acid, an alkali, a polyol and water The alkali
reacts with some of the stearic acid.
6. • The polyols like glycerin helped to soften and protect the skin
and prevents chaps
• It acts as humectants which helped to prevent the vanishing
cream from drying and cracking during storage in its container
Potassium hydroxide or some carbonates are added as an
ingredient to maintaining consistency in creams.
• Formula
• Stearic acid 17.0%
• Sodium carbonates 0.5%
• Potassium hydroxide 0.5%
• Glycerin 6.0%
• Water 72.0%
• Alcohol 4.5%
• Perfume 0.5%
7. • Procedure:
• Melt the stearic acid make solution of the
alkalis in one third of the water, add the
glycerin.
• Then add the solution with steady agitation to
the melted fats, continue stirring
until emulsification has take place, then add the
remaining of water heated to the same
temperature.
• Continue stirring until the temperature has
dropped to about 40°C.
• Dissolve the perfume in the alcohol and stir
thoroughly.
8. • Common advantages:
• 1. Used as adhesive for make up powders.
• 2. Reduces loss of moisture from dry skin.
• 3. Smoothens the skin and keep it soft.
• 4. Prevents skin from roughning and
chapping.
• Storage: It is stored in a well closed
container
• Example: Lakme foundation cream,
Revlon foundation cream
9. • COLD CREAM
• Cold cream is an emulsion of water and
contains fats including Bess wax.
• The emulsions is of a water in oil' type of
emulsion.
• The name 'cold cream' derives from the
cooling feeling that the cream leaves on the
skin.
• Cold cream is prepared by saponification
between borax and bees wax, i.e., fatty acids
of bees wax reacts with borax and give the
sodium soap this process is called as
saponification.
10. • Common advantages:
• 1. Typically used to clean the face of makeup.
• 2. Heavily moisturizers dry skin.
• 3. Can also be used as a balm for dry cracked skin.
• 4. It can also be used as a shaving cream alternative to
men.
• Chemical composition:
• White bees wax acts as saponifying agent.
• Generally liquid paraffin acts as emollient by adding
together form oil phase.
• Borax acts as emulsifying agent to the preparation.
• Any perfume and water could be added accordingly to
standard protocol.
11. • Formula:
• White bees wax 10%
• Liquid paraffin 30%
• Borax 0.5%
• Rose oil 0.1%
• Purified water 19%
12. • Procedure:
• Bees wax and liquid paraffin are weighed and taken in
a china dish and heated (melted) on the water bath at
70°C in a glass beaker.
• In this bee's wax and liquid paraffin's forms oil phase,
borax and water forms aqueous phase.
• The temperatures of both aqueous and oily phase were
maintained at same temperature (70°C) because if
temperature differences are there between two
phases, during mixing lumps will from in the cream.
• It finds gritty sensation to the skin.
• Storage: Store in a wide mouthed plastic container.
• Category: It is used as emollient and protective to the
skin.
• Example: Lakme cold cream, Ponds cold cream,
Emami cold cream.
13. • MOISTURIZING CREAM
• Moisturizer or emollients are complex
mixtures of chemical agents.
• Specially designed to make the external layers
of the skin (epidermis) softer and more liable.
• They increase the skin hydration water
content by reducing evaporation.
• Moisturizing cream is a soft, semisolid,
cosmetic preparation, when it is applied, it
form a thin films over the skin surface makes
the skin smooth and delays the evaporation of
water from the skin, so that dryness of the
skin is prevented.
14. • Common advantages:
• 1. These works by forming thin films on the
surface of the skin to prevent loss of the
moisture.
• 2. These attract water vapor from the air to
moisturize the skin.
• 3. These are more complex and try to
restore natural moisturizing factors on the
skin.
• 4. Moisturizers also contain sunscreen
which will protect your skin from UV light.
15. • Formula:
Stearic acid 4.0%
Mineral oil 8.0%
Lanolin 1.0%
Glyceryl monostearate 3.0%
Isopropyl myristate 2.0%
Glycerin 4.0%
Propylene glycol 4.0%
Triethanolamine 0.2%
Water 100%
Perfume and preservatives q.s
• Storage: It is stored in a well closed container.
16. • Category: Used as emollient and leave the
skin smooth and fresh.
• Example: Ponds white beauty winter anti
spot, Lakme absolute perfect radiance skin.
• Cleansers
• A cleanser is a facial care product that is used
to remove make up,dead skin cells oils, dirt
and other types of pollutants for the skin of
the face.
• This helps to unclog pores and prevent skin
conditioning such as acne
• A cleanser can be used as part of a skin care
regimen together both toner and moisturizer.
18. • Common advantages:
• 1. Control absorption rate.
• 2. Flexibility in particle size.
• 3. Improve dissolution and bioavailability.
• 4. It keeps skin hydrated and fortified.
• Common disadvantages:
• 1. Many moisturizers contain oils such as
petroleum, lanolin and mineral oil etc. they
block water evaporation and can actually clog
pores and increase acne.
• 2. Repeated use of creams/moisturizers may
cause thinning of the skin.
19. • 3. Due to the presences of steroids, the
creams can actually cause blocked pores
and lead to the developed of new acne.
• 4. It leads to pigmentation.
• 5. It leads to mercury poisoning.
• Storage: It is stored is cool place
• Category: Cleansing agent and
moisturizer.
• Example: Dove face wash, Fair and
handsome face wash, Himalayan herbal
purifying neem face wash.
20. • Applications:
• 1. Excellent in sensitive skin formulation.
• 2. Refreshers sensitive skin.
• 3. Remove excess oil and sebum.
• 4. Control oil production.
• 5. Reduces skin bleaches.
• 6. Cleanses and conditions skin.
• 7. Tones and tightens pores.
• 8. Smoothens irritation.
• 9. Refresher and cool skin.
• 10. Relieves irritation and discomfort.
• 11. Acts as nutritional supplement.
21. • ANTIPERSPIRANTS
• Perspiration is a phenomenon which the body has for
regulation of body temperature and for protection of
the skin from dryness.
• Perspiration also eliminates lactic acid which is formed
during muscular exercise.
• Perspiration takes place because of sweat glands, and
apocrine glands.
• Sweat glands are two types; types are eccrine glands,
and apocrine glands.
• The eccrine glands occur over almost all body surfaces.
• These glands originate deeply layers of dermis and
open on skin surfaces through a thin duct.
• The other sweat glands and apocrine glands are
associated with sexual development and occur after
puberty.
22. • Sweats from both eccrine and apocrine glands
are odorless when discharged.
• Later sweat from apocrine glands which contain
several fatty substances like lower fatty acids,
steroids, lactones etc, is decomposed by resident
bacteria producing odorous substances.
• Antiperspirants are personal hygienic product
designed to control sweating and body odor.
• Commonly used antiperspirants like, salts of
aluminum and zirconium bromide, aluminum
chlorohydrate etc used as astringent that control
sweat and body odor, safely and effectively.
• They are readily available in the market as sprays
(aerosol), sticks, creams or roll ons
23. • Active Ingredients:
• Antiperspirants contain number of ingredients to
help people feel, fresh, cool and smelling good.
• Antiperspirants have the added benefits of
minimizing sweating.
• Aluminum salts are the active ingredients in
antiperspirants.
• They work to reduce the flow of sweat from the
sweat gland to the skin surface.
• Aerosol and roll on products are likely to contain
aluminum chlorohydrate, where as sticks, gels
and other solid products are most likely to
contain aluminum salt called aluminum
zirconium.
• Aluminum chloride is a strong aluminum salt
used to treat people with mild to moderate
hyperhidrosis or excessive sweating.
24. • Antimicrobial agents: Aluminum salts
present in antiperspirants are natural
antimicrobial agents so they also kill
bacteria on your skin.
• High efficacy deodorants are available and
rely on the use of specifically developed
antimicrobial agents, such as triclosan or
polyhexa methylene biguanide.
• Alcohol is effective at killing bacteria as
antiperspirants products that contain
alcohol (or ethanol) are able to reduce body
odour by combating the odour forming
25. • Methyl paraben and propyl paraben are type
of preservative found in many personal care
products.
• They are added to antiperspirants because
antiperspirants are generally self preserving.
• Aerosol antiperspirants are designed to work
via a thin film which is propelled onto the skin.
• To create this film, products contain low,
medium and high pressure propellants which
produce a strong but comfortable spray to
reach the skin.
• These propellants are commonly butane,
isobutene and propane.
26. • Formula:
Aluminum chlorhydrate (50%) 25.0%
Glycerin 5.0%
Alcohol 45.0%
Borax 2.0%
Water 100%
Perfume q.s
• Liquid antiperspirants generally are applied as sprays.
• These are aqueous or hydro alcoholic solutions of
astringent salts with humectants.
• Alcohol present tends to present hydrolysis of
astringent in solution and also helps in evaporation.
• The above mentioned formulation can be used for
spray.
27. • DEODORANTS
• A deodorant is a substances applied to the body
to prevent body odor caused by the bacteria to
prevent body odor caused by the bacterial
breakdown of precipitants in armpits, feet and
other areas of the body.
• Deodorants typically applied to the underarms,
also used on feet and other areas in the form of
the body sprays.
• Deodorants are often alcohol based.
• Alcohol initially stimulates sweating, but may
also temporarily kill bacteria.
• Other active ingredients in deodorants include
sodium stearate, sodium chloride and stearyl
alcohol.
29. • Method of Preparation:
• Put all the materials together and heat in an
equipment having reflux condenser.
• Heat till all the soap is dissolved.
• Allow to cool the mixture.
• When temperature drops to about 60°C, add perfume
and mix.
• Transfer the solution to moulds.
• Chlorhexidine diacetate or bithional are other effective
non irritant bactericide which can be used in stearate
soaps.
• If a bright, clear transparent product is designed, high
quality grade sodium stearate will, be required.
• Cetyl alcohol is usually incorporated to give rigidity to
the stick; otherwise a soft stick will be formed.
30. • General Mechanism of Action of Deodorant
• Perspirants itself is almost odorless.
• Most of the odor that accompanies
precipitants is caused by the action of
bacteria.
• Deodorants reduce this odor in one of the
ways:
• by preventing the action of bacteria on the
perspiration, by preventing the secretion of
perspiration or by masking the offensive odor
with a pleasant one.
• A deodorant that kills or inactivates bacteria
contains antiseptic substance, such as alcohol,
formaldehyde and boric acid.
31. • Chlorine compounds, e.g., hypochlorite and
chlorhexidine, work by killing bacteria which
may be responsible for the odor deodorants
that mask perspirants odor contain perfumes.
• Essential oils and such disinfectants as
carbolic acid simply mask the odor making are
less offensive.
• Deodorants that prevent the secretion of
persipirants are called antiperspirants.
• They usually contain an aluminum salt, such
as aluminum sulfate, that acts by blocking the
pores preventing the free flow of sweat.
