This document discusses anhydrous and hydrous cosmetic formulations. It begins by explaining that anhydrous formulations contain only oil-soluble ingredients like oils, butters, and esters, with no water. It notes that antioxidants like vitamin E are often included in anhydrous formulations to extend shelf life. The document then discusses hydrous formulations, noting that water is the main ingredient in many products and is used to create emulsions with oils and thickeners. It provides details on the fatty acid compositions and properties of various oils, butters, and waxes commonly used in cosmetic formulations. It concludes with an activity suggesting testing the skin feel properties of these ingredients.

1. Cosmetic Chemistry
“Prepare your own cosmetics...”
Anhydrous and water based formulations
Dr Akshaya K B
PhD Chemistry, CHRIST (Deemed to be University)
MPhil Chemistry, CHRIST (Deemed to be University)
MSc, NITK, Surathkal

2.  ONLY contains oil or oil-soluble ingredients like oils, butters, esters, fatty alcohols
 NO water in an anhydrous product - preservative free - no microbiological testing
 Lip balms, body butters, face oils - formulated using lipids (fats) from plant-based butters, waxes and oils only
 Antioxidant - Vitamin E - extends shelf-life - slow the process of oxidation preventing rancidity - retain stability - active ingredients
in formulations - mitigate the effects of oxidative stress - skin’s exposure to external factors such as pollution, cigarette smoke and
UV light
 Oxidative stress - accelerate ageing process - wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, dryness, loss of skin tone
 Vitamin E, vitamin C, coenzyme Q10, plant-based antioxidants such as polyphenols, flavonoids, carotenoids and terpenes
 Topical application of antioxidants helps boost our skin’s natural antioxidant protection
Anhydrous products and antioxidants
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3. Phases in anhydrous products
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4.  Water is used in the formulation of every type of cosmetic and personal care product
 Lotions, creams, bath products, cleansing products, deodorants, makeup, moisturizers, oral hygiene products,
personal cleanliness products, skin care products, shampoo, hair conditioners, shaving products, suntan products
 In combination with emulsifiers, water can be mixed with ‘thicker’ ingredients, such as butters and oils, to facilitate
the formation of emulsions used to create creams and lotions
 Essential role in extraction and manufacture of many natural raw materials
 In combination with other solvents like ethanol or glycerine
 Aqua - often appearing first on the ingredients list
 60% to 85% water
 Rinse-off products - hair care, shower gels or cleansers - upto 95% water
 Bar soaps and some make-up products - traces or none
Hydrous products
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5.  Palmitic acid (C16): Forms an occlusive layer on our skin, a skin protectant
 Palmitoleic acid (C16:1): A building block in our skin that prevents burns, wounds,
skin scratches - Most active anti-microbial in human sebum - Treat damaged skin
and mucous membranes
 Stearic acid (C18): Improved moisture retention, increase in flexibility of the skin,
and skin damage repair - Has a melting point of around 69.6˚C - Often, the more
stearic acid, the stiffer and harder the butter
 Oleic acid (C18:1): Very moisturizing, and helps skin cells regenerate quickly - Very
well absorbed by the skin - Acts as an anti-inflammatory
 Linoleic acid (C18:2): Helps to improve skin’s barrier function, helps soothe itchy
and dry skin, acts as an anti-inflammatory, moisture retainer
Compounds in oils, butters, waxes
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6.  Beeswax: obtained from hives used to thicken and stiffen products - balms, lip balms, lotion bars; create colour cosmetics -
lipsticks; occlusive qualities to lotions – MP = 62˚C to 64˚C
 Fractionated coconut oil: Medium chain triglycerides as it contains medium chain triglycerides in the form of caprylic fatty acid
and capric fatty acid - Shelf life - two years or longer - thinner than water; Great base - body, facial, massage oils - non-staining to
fabric
 Fatty acid composition:
 Caprylic (C8): 53% to 55%
 Capric (C10): 36% to 47%
 Sunflower oil (INCI: Helianthus annuus oil): Light, liquid oil - High oleic acid - higher shelf life up to one year – tocopherols -
Vitamin E - phytosterols
 Fatty acid composition of regular old sunflower oil:
 Palmitic: 5 to 7%
 Stearic: 3 to 6%
 Oleic: 15 to 36%
 Linoleic: 61 to 73%
Wax and Oils
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7.  Mango butter (INCI: Mangifera Indica ( Mango) Seed): harder, less greasy feeling butter with a melting point of 34˚C to 38˚C -
shelf life of up to 2 years
 Fatty acid composition:
 Palmitic (C16): 6%
 Stearic (C18): 42%
 Oleic (C18:1): 46%
 Linoleic (C18:2): 3%
 Shea butter: softer, more greasy feeling butter that melts at 29˚C to 34˚C - More refined the butter, Lower the melting point - shelf
life of two years
 Fatty acid composition:
 Palmitic (C16): 3 to 7%
 Stearic (C18): 35 to 45%
 Oleic (C18:1): 40 to 55%
 Linoleic (C18:2): 3 to 8%
Butters
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8. • *These oils, butters, and waxes are safe to be used on your skin neat and can
be used in lip care products, like lip balms. Please don’t assume any other
ingredients could be tried this way or you could end up with burns and serious
pain. Never ever use essential oils or fragrance oils neat on your skin!
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9.  Observe the basics of the oil, butter or wax. Take in its appearance. How would you describe it to someone else? Is it liquid or solid?
Does it have a colour or is it clear? How does it smell? How does it taste? How hard is it to remove from its container? Can you pour
it or scoop it?
 For each, put a small bit on your skin and rub it in slowly. As you do, consider these aspects, all of which make up what is called skin
feel.
 How long can you rub it into your skin before it disappears? (Play time)
 Does the ingredient glide easily or does it feel draggy and stiff? (Spreadability, drag, glide)
 Is it tacky or waxy? (Drag, glide)
 Is it greasy or non-greasy? (Lubricity)
 What is its viscosity? Is it lubricious and thick or thinner and lighter? (Cushion)
 How does it melt on your skin? (Melting point)
 Does your skin look shiny or matte after application?
Activity
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