This document discusses nail cosmetics and provides details about their history, types, and manufacturing process. It begins with an introduction to nail products and their purpose. It then discusses the history of nail cosmetics originating from ancient civilizations and their mainstream popularity in the early 20th century. The rest of the document details the components, ideal properties, classification, formulation and manufacturing of nail lacquers, as well as how they are evaluated.

1. NAIL COSMETICS
By
Dr. Sachin B. Somwanshi
Assistant Professor,
Department of Pharmaceutics
Pravara Rural Education Society’s,
College of Pharmacy (For Women)
Chincholi, Nashik
Loving & Caring of Nails

2. Introduction of Nail Cosmetics
History of Nail Cosmetics
Nail Lacquer
Nail Lacquer Remover
Nail Creams
01
02
03
04
05
CONTENTS
06 Nail Bleaches
07 Cuticle Softeners & Removers

3. 1. Nail Lacquer/ Enamel/ Paint/ Varnish
2. Enamel Remover
3. Powder Polish
4. Nail Cream
5. Nail Bleach
6. Cuticle Remover
7. Cuticle Softener
Manicure preparations
include:01
Nail Products are products that are used to color the nails,
to protect them against damage, to soften and condition
cuticles, and to supplement the nails.
The care of nails is referred to as Manicuring .
INTRODCUTION OF NAIL COSMETICS

4.  Nail polish originated in India with henna during the Bronze Age.
 Ancient Chinese civilizations made nail polish from egg whites, flowers
and wax, while gold and silver polish represented royalty.
 The ancient Egyptians used clay and henna; red was for royalty and
pastels for the lower classes.
 From the 17th century, nail cosmetics became mainstream.
 Modern‐day nail polish was formulated in the 1920s, as nitrocellulose,
an explosive, was adapted to produce a glossy film called lacquer.
 Nail polish became commercially available in 1932 when Charles
Revson added pigments to clear lacquer; this company is today known
as Revlon.
 Artificial nails (ANs) made from gold and precious stone date back to
600 Bc in China.
 In 1957, a dentist named Frederick Slack invented nail extensions using
dental acrylic.
HISTORY OF NAIL COSMETICS

5. Definition:
 Nail lacquers or nail paints may be defined as viscous or semi-
liquid preparations that are intended for the decoration of the
nails of the fingers and toes.
 Nail lacquers form the most commonly used the most popular
type of manicure preparations.
 Nail polishes are quite distinct from those of nail lacquers and
are regarded as a type of manicure preparations that produce
a gloss by means of huffing action.
 The action is mainly by causing abrasion on the surface of the
nail and secondly by drawing more blood into the capillaries
of the nail.
1. NAIL LACQUERS

6.  It should be safe for the skin and nails and should not lead to any
harmful effects.
 The most important property is that it should form a uniform and
satisfactory film on the nails.
 It should have good wetting and flow properties and should be viscous
in nature in order to form an appropriate film.
 The distribution of the colour should be uniform.
 It should provide a good shine on the nail on application.
 It should possess sufficient adhesive property so that it may uniformly
adhere to the nail without slipping.
 It should possess the required flexibility so that it may not become brit
tle and crack upon application.
 It should have reasonable drying time (1-2 minutes)
 It should be able to preserve all these properties at least for a week
after its application.
IDEAL PROPERTIES OF NAIL LACQUER

7. Pearled Nail Lacquers
 Made up of lacquer base, colorants,
pearl essence.
Creamy Nail Lacquers
 Made up of a lacquer base, organic
and inorganic pigments.
CLASSIFICATION

8. Lacquer base
1. Film forming agent
2. Resin
3. Solvent
4. Plasticizer
Colouring agents
1. Dyes
2. Lakes
3. Pigments
4. Pearl essence
COMPOSITION OF NAIL LACQUER
Other Formulating agent
1. Suspending agents
2. Opacifying agents
3. UV absorbers
4. Perfume

9. Film Forming Agents:
 Impart hardness, toughness, resistance to abrasion, viscosity
to some extent.
 Conventional nail polish consists of a polymer, dissolved in
a solvent. When it is applied the solvent evaporates, leaving
the polymer to form a film on the nail.
 Example: Nitrocellulose
- SR nitrocellulose :10.7 to 11.2% N2
- RR nitrocellulose :11.2 to 12.8% N2
 Other examples include cellulose acetate , cellulose acetate
butylate, ethyl cellulose, vinyl polymers and various
polymers of methacrylate.

10.  Gel nail polish is consists of methacrylate monomers and
photoinitiator such as benzoyl peroxide.
 Exposed to ultraviolet light triggers polymerisation
process which solidifies the polish.

11. Resins:
 Enhance the glossy nature of the nail polish and also impart
adhesive property
 Natural resins are benzoin, shellac, damar, sandarac and
ester gums.
 Synthetic resin is sulphonamides-formaldehyde resin.
 Commercial resins: Aryl-sulphonamide-formaldehyde forms
Santolite MHP: forms a harder film
Santolite MS 80 percent: provides good gloss, flexibility
and now property
 Acrylic esters are compatible with nitrocellulose and they
provide excellent gloss, adhesion, durability, good flexibility.

12. Solvents:
 Solvents are volatile organic liquids that combine all the ingredients of lac
quer formulation and make a homogeneous viscous preparation.
 Impart brushability
 They also play a primary role in the dry-time of the film and in the charact
eristics of the dry film.
 Low Boiling Solvents: Lowers viscosity and covering power
 Medium Boiling Solvents
 High Boiling Solvents: gives a brighter film
Ethyl acetate and butyl acetate are
commonly used as solvent, and give its
characteristics smell to nail polish.
Ethyl acetate and acetone are used in
Nail polish removers.

13. Solvents are in 3 inter-related categories:
1. Active solvents: True solvents
Eg., esters, ketones and glycol ethers for Nitrocellulose.
2. Couplers: Not solvents but in conjugation increase the strength of
other solvents.
3. Diluents: Diluents are non-solvents for nitrocellulose . These are
used to stabilize viscosity, to carry resins in solution and to reduce
the effect of subsequent applications on the coat of enamel already
applied, to lower the overall cost of the product.
Eg., Aromatic and aliphatic hydrocarbons and alcohols like Toulene,
benzene, xylene, hexane, heptanes, naphthas, light petroleum ether.

14. Plasticizer:
They impart flexibility and adhesiveness to the film, and also effect
viscosity and the volatility or rate of drying .
Two types of plasticizers:
Solvent plasticizers: Act as solvents and are of high molecular weight.
Eg., Butyl acetyl ricenoleate.
Non-Solvents plasticizers: Act as a softener.
Eg., Castor oil.
The most commonly used plasticizers are dibutyl phthalate, n-butyl
stearate, butyl glycolate, tributyl phosphate, resorcinol diacetate,
castor triethyl citrate, dibutyl tartrate, dibutoxy ethyl pthalate,
butyl acetyl ricinoleate.

15. Colouring agents:
 Impart acceptable shade to the lacquer base.
 The colouring agents should disperse well, must comply with
the terms of Drug and Cosmetic act, should be resistant to
light, acids and alkali found in detergents, should be
non-staining and produce a good gloss.
Dyes: Soluble dyes alone normally cannot impart sufficient
depth of colour, abandoned due to staining the surface &
surroundings of the nail.
Eg., Eosin, erythrosine, carmosine, rhodamine
Lakes: Insoluble lakes are incorporated to produce suitable
shades. Eg., Colour lakes mentioned in Schedule Q to Drug and
Cosmetics Act rules.

16. Pigments:
Insoluble in lacquers.
Eg., Titanium dioxide,
iron oxide, Ultramarine blue,
Chrome oxide green.
Pearl essence: Pearl essence is a suspension of crystalline
guanine (2-amino-6-hydroxy purine) in nitrocellulose and
solvents.
Bismuth oxychloride, mica coated with titanium dioxide, pure
aluminium and silver powder are also used.

17. Other formulating agents:
Suspending agents: Suspending properties have been achieved by
developing thixotropic system using pre-heated colloidal clays. Thic
keners are added to keep pigments and other additives suspended
in the polish.
Eg., Benzyl dimethyl hydrogenated tallow
Ammonium montmorillonite (Bentone27)
Dimethyl dioctadecyl ammonium bentonite (Bentone34)
Stearalkonium hectorite
Opacifying agents: These are whitening agents which help to develop
shades which will reflect the same colour on the nails as they are in
the bottle.
Eg., Titanium dioxide, Zinc oxide.

18. UV absorbers: To prevent deterioration of ingredients due to UV
light .
Eg., Benzophenones and its derivatives.
Perfume: used mainly to counteract the unpleasant odour of the
solvents .
Eg., Mostly synthetic perfumes are used in an optimum
quantity of about 1% concentration.

19. FORMULA

20. The manufacture of nail enamels involves following distinct processes:
•Grinding of pigments
•Manufacture of Nail lacquers
•Mixing of pigments
with lacquer
•Safety aspects
MANUFACTURE OF NAIL LACQUERS

21.  Add 75% of the solvent and whole of the diluent in a mixer.
 Mix well with agitation
 Nitrocellulose is then added with stirrer on
 Solvent is added
 Plasticizer is added
 Resin is added
 Mixing is continued for several hours until solution of all ingredients
is complete
 Clear lacquer is formed
 Passed through filter press or centrifuged
 Pigmented chips or concentrated tinters are added and mixing is
continued
 The mixing process is carried out till sufficiently uniform Nail
Lacquer is formed.
STEPS OF MANUFACTURING PROCESS

22.  Since nail lacquers are highly
inflammable, filling, capping
and packing must be carried
out under fire-proof and
explosion-proof conditions.
 Proper care and precautions
should be followed;
for example, good ventilation,
proper electrical wiring and pr
ohibition of cigarette smoking
in the working area.
FILLING

23. PACKAGING
 Glass bottles with a brush
applicator is the most conventi
onal container which is used
for the packaging.
 The capacity varies from 8ml
to 18ml.
 The applicator consists of an
air-tight aluminium canister
with an acrylic fiber tip or nib
which applies polish directly to
nails.

24. LABELLING

25. The various methods required for the evaluation of nail polishes are as
follows;
 Non-volatile content
 Drying rate
 Colour of the Product
 Smoothness of the film
 Gloss estimation
 Hardness of the film
 Resistance to Abrasion
 Adhesion
 Resistance to Water Permeability
 Application property
 Viscosity
 Stability
EVALUATION OF NAIL LACQUERS

26. Definition:
Nail removers / nail cleansers are defined as the mixture of solvents
containing small amounts of fat intended to remove the nail enamel.
Ideal Characteristics:
An ideal lacquer remover should have the following characteristics :
 It should not be too volatile to evaporate during application.
 It should not be irritating to the surrounding skin.
 It should not leave the nail fatty or sticky.
 It should not have unpleasant or obstructive odor.
 It should not cause drying of the nails or make the nail brittle.
2. NAIL LACQUER REMOVER

27. Solvent
 Acetone is most commonly used solvent which dissolves the
lacquer more easily and quickly than other solvent; despite
having unpleasant odor.
 Higher molecular ketones such as methyl ethyl ketone can also
be used. Ester of dibasic acid are odorless and are frequently
used in modern nail lacquer remover.
 The other solvent used are ethyl acetate, ethyl butyrate, liquid
alkyl ester of higher acid and amino alcohols.
COMPOSITION OF NAIL LACQUER REMOVER

28. Fatting agents
 Most lacquer solvent have a strong drying effect; in order to avoid it
some fat is usually added to the remover.
 Vegetable oil, lanolin and its derivatives, fatty alcohol are used for
this purpose.
Perfume
 If the product contain large amount of acetone, aliphatic ester; it is
difficult to mask the odor.
 The easiest way to overcome this problem is to add volatile
fragrances such as orange turpines, turpineol which also act as a
solvents.

29.  Type I contains solvent blends and a small percentage of
oily materials.
 Formula:
TYPES AND FORMULATION OF NAIL LACQUER REMOVER
Ingredients %
Castor oil 2.5
Diethylene glycol mono ethyl ether 14.5
Acetone 83.0

30.  Type 2 (Non smearing enamel) contains Water and water
miscible solvents.
 Formula:
Ingredients %
Water 10.0
Ethyl acetate 90.0
Method of preparation:
A simple remover prepared by mixing water
and ethyl acetate.

31.  Type 3 ( Cream type enamel remover) contains solvent, waxes
and soap.
 Formula:
Ingredients %
Bees wax 3.0
Micro-crystalline wax 1.0
Acetylated monoglycerides 10.0
Diethylene glycol mono ethyl ether 52.0
Ethyl acetate 15.0
Stearic acid 15.0
Triethanolamine 4.0
Method of preparation :
Melt all ingredients except triethanolamine, add
triethanolamine to the mixture with stirring and all
ow to cool.

32.  Type 4 (Gel type varnish remover) contains hydroxypropyl
cellulose.
 Formula:
Ingredients %
Hydroxypropylcellulose 1.0
Butyrolacetone 75.0
PPG-12-PEG-50 lanolin 1.0
Pigment (in Butyrolacetone) 0.1
Sodium hydroxide (5% aqueous) q.s
Water To make 100.0

33.  Type 5 ( Conditioning nail polish remover) contains
Malleated Soyabean oil and acetone
 Formula:
Ingredients %
Malleated Soyabean oil 10
Acetone 90
Method of preparation:
Simple mixing of oil in the solvent

34.  Due to excessive removal of fatty substances from nail surface
the appearance of the nail becomes dull to overcome this
brittleness &maintain the health of nail some preparations
are used.
 Emollient cream can be used.
3. NAIL CREAMS

35.  These preparations are used to remove different types of
stains and discoloration on the nails.
 Oxidizing agents normally used are hydrogen peroxide, zinc
peroxide.
 Formula
4. NAIL BLEACHES
Ingredients %
Hydrochloric acid 0.4
Glycerine 10.0
Water 89.6

36. Cuticle softeners
 The cuticle is the thin fold of skin that extends over the lunula at the
base of the nail.
 It becomes unpleasant looking due to its irregular growths.
 Therefore preparations are used to improve its apperence.
 Cuticles softeners can soften the cuticles along with preventing nail
to become brittle.
Cuticle Removers
 Cuticle Remover are used for a removal of cuticle or by hydrolysis
and swelling of the softened cuticles.
 This is done by using potassium hydroxide and sodium hydroxide.
5. CUTICLE SOFTENERS & REMOVERS

37. THANK YOU…