Abstract: Seam strength is an important factor in determining the durability of a garment. Seam strength is
determined by resistance to pulling force and abrasion. Seam tenacity break the fabric or the weakest stitch of
seam. Seam abrasion resistance is the amount of rubbing action needed to wear away stitches in the seam
strength is related to stitch type, thread strength ,thread tension, seam type,seam efficiency, width ,and stitches
per inch.Loop strength of thread is more important to durability the seam need not be stronger than the fabric
being sewn.A triple stitched lapped seam would not be necessary for a pair of corduroy jeans since the fabric
itself is not strong and would wear out before the seam.It is better to have the thread is an overstressed seam
that to damage the fabric.Our project objective is to find the seam of strength by using different type of materials.
This document discusses different types of stitches and seams. It begins by defining what a stitch is according to British standards. It then describes various stitch properties like length, width, depth, tension and consistency. It classifies stitches into 6 main classes based on their structure and method of interlacing. These include single thread chain stitch, hand stitch, lock stitch, multi thread chain stitch, overlock stitch and covering chain stitch. Each class has various sub-classes that are used for specific purposes. The document also defines seams and classifies them into 4 main types - plain seam, lapped seam, bound seam and flat seam based on their structure and use.
Seam slippage is when a sewn seam opens under load and some of the opening remains even after the load is removed. It can be caused by loosely woven fabric, not using enough stitches per inch, poor stitch balance, or having too narrow of a seam margin. When two pieces of fabric are pulled at right angles to the seam, it can reveal a gap between the pieces called a seam grin, showing the thread in the gap. Proper testing can identify issues with seam slippage.
This document discusses various topics related to seam engineering, including types of seams, thread sizes, quality defects, and solutions. It describes lockstitch and chainstitch seams, and explains that lockstitch is stronger as the thread is locked on both sides of the fabric. Common seam quality defects like improper stitch balance and needle cutting are defined and solutions provided. Recommendations are given for thread and needle sizes for different fabric weights. Defects like seam slippage and methods to minimize them are also covered.
Yarn unevenness and its empact on qualityArNesto WaHid
This document discusses yarn unevenness, its causes, measurement, and impact on quality. Yarn unevenness refers to variations in yarn thickness along its length. It is influenced by raw material variations and spinning process irregularities. Unevenness is measured using the irregularity percentage and coefficient of variation. Higher unevenness can reduce yarn strength, impact fabric appearance with defects, and lower productivity. Careful control of the spinning process is needed to minimize unevenness and maximize quality.
There are several types of seams used in garment construction, each with a specific purpose and application. Flat seams join fabric edges without extra thickness. Superimposed seams create neat, load-bearing seams. Lapped seams are used for rainwear. Lap felled seams involve one stitch for a strong seam. Bound seams produce a neat finished edge. Decorative seams add ornamental detail. Edge finishing seams neaten cut edges. Common seam problems include puckering, slippage, and skipped stitches, which can be addressed through tension and feed adjustments or material choices.
This document discusses yarn properties that affect knitted fabric quality. It explains that yarn count, twist, evenness, imperfections, and strength are important characteristics to consider for knitting. It also compares carded and combed yarns, noting that combed yarns produce fabrics with higher quality attributes like strength, less pilling and shrinkage, and uniformity compared to carded yarns of the same count. The document provides classifications for yarn counts and says other yarn parameters will be discussed in future editions.
This document discusses various types of seams and stitches used in garment construction. It begins by defining what a seam is and explaining factors to consider when choosing seams. It then provides details on 18 specific seam types, including plain seams, lapped seams, French seams, and flat felled seams. It also covers stitch per inch guidelines and 8 classes of seams as defined by British standards. In summary, the document serves as a guide to the different seams and stitches used in apparel manufacturing.
This document discusses different types of stitches and seams. It begins by defining what a stitch is according to British standards. It then describes various stitch properties like length, width, depth, tension and consistency. It classifies stitches into 6 main classes based on their structure and method of interlacing. These include single thread chain stitch, hand stitch, lock stitch, multi thread chain stitch, overlock stitch and covering chain stitch. Each class has various sub-classes that are used for specific purposes. The document also defines seams and classifies them into 4 main types - plain seam, lapped seam, bound seam and flat seam based on their structure and use.
Seam slippage is when a sewn seam opens under load and some of the opening remains even after the load is removed. It can be caused by loosely woven fabric, not using enough stitches per inch, poor stitch balance, or having too narrow of a seam margin. When two pieces of fabric are pulled at right angles to the seam, it can reveal a gap between the pieces called a seam grin, showing the thread in the gap. Proper testing can identify issues with seam slippage.
This document discusses various topics related to seam engineering, including types of seams, thread sizes, quality defects, and solutions. It describes lockstitch and chainstitch seams, and explains that lockstitch is stronger as the thread is locked on both sides of the fabric. Common seam quality defects like improper stitch balance and needle cutting are defined and solutions provided. Recommendations are given for thread and needle sizes for different fabric weights. Defects like seam slippage and methods to minimize them are also covered.
Yarn unevenness and its empact on qualityArNesto WaHid
This document discusses yarn unevenness, its causes, measurement, and impact on quality. Yarn unevenness refers to variations in yarn thickness along its length. It is influenced by raw material variations and spinning process irregularities. Unevenness is measured using the irregularity percentage and coefficient of variation. Higher unevenness can reduce yarn strength, impact fabric appearance with defects, and lower productivity. Careful control of the spinning process is needed to minimize unevenness and maximize quality.
There are several types of seams used in garment construction, each with a specific purpose and application. Flat seams join fabric edges without extra thickness. Superimposed seams create neat, load-bearing seams. Lapped seams are used for rainwear. Lap felled seams involve one stitch for a strong seam. Bound seams produce a neat finished edge. Decorative seams add ornamental detail. Edge finishing seams neaten cut edges. Common seam problems include puckering, slippage, and skipped stitches, which can be addressed through tension and feed adjustments or material choices.
This document discusses yarn properties that affect knitted fabric quality. It explains that yarn count, twist, evenness, imperfections, and strength are important characteristics to consider for knitting. It also compares carded and combed yarns, noting that combed yarns produce fabrics with higher quality attributes like strength, less pilling and shrinkage, and uniformity compared to carded yarns of the same count. The document provides classifications for yarn counts and says other yarn parameters will be discussed in future editions.
This document discusses various types of seams and stitches used in garment construction. It begins by defining what a seam is and explaining factors to consider when choosing seams. It then provides details on 18 specific seam types, including plain seams, lapped seams, French seams, and flat felled seams. It also covers stitch per inch guidelines and 8 classes of seams as defined by British standards. In summary, the document serves as a guide to the different seams and stitches used in apparel manufacturing.
This document discusses yarn properties that are important for knitting, including count, twist, evenness, and imperfections. It compares combed and carded yarns, noting that combed yarn is of higher quality with fewer imperfections. Combed yarn produces knit fabrics with less pilling, shrinkage, and higher grammage. While more expensive to produce, combed yarn results in fabrics with better properties for knitting. The document also discusses yarn count, count variation, unevenness percentage, and classifications of yarn fineness.
Study on Different Types of Knitting Faults, Causes and Remedies of Knit FabricsMd. Ariful Islam
This document discusses various types of knitting faults that can occur in knit fabrics, their causes, and potential remedies. It outlines 20 different types of common knitting defects such as drop stitches, barriness, pin holes, and broken needles. For each defect type, the document explains the likely causes such as yarn tension issues, machine problems, or material quality issues. It then provides recommendations for remedies such as ensuring uniform yarn tension, properly maintaining machine parts, and using quality materials. The goal is to help knitting mills identify and address defects in order to improve fabric quality and avoid rejections.
There are several types of seams used in garment construction, each with a specific purpose and application. Flat seams join fabric edges without extra thickness. Superimposed seams create neat, load-bearing seams. Lapped seams are used for rainwear. Lap felled seams involve one stitch for a strong, protected seam. Bound seams produce a neat finished edge. Decorative seams add ornamental detail. Edge finishing seams neaten cut edges. Common seam problems include puckering, slippage, and skipped stitches, which can be addressed through tension and feed adjustments or material choices.
This document provides information about dimensional stability and geometry in weft knit fabric. It was presented by 7 students from the Textile department of Bangladesh University of Business & Technology. The key points discussed include how knitted fabrics are prone to changes in size and shape from wear and washing. It also discusses dimensional stability states, loop length, areal density, fabric cover, tightness factor, and spirality - defined as dimensional distortion where wale rows are not perpendicular to courses. Formulas are presented for factors that influence the angle of spirality, such as the number of feeders, loop shape, and number of active needles.
Effect of count and stitch length on spirality of single jersey knit fabriceSAT Publishing House
This study examined the effect of yarn count and stitch length on spirality in single jersey knit fabrics. 12 fabric samples were produced with variations in count (30-40 Ne) and stitch length (2.6-2.95 mm). The samples were tested for spirality after scouring, bleaching, dyeing and finishing. The results showed that spirality increased as stitch length increased due to more yarn twisting. Spirality also increased with higher yarn counts due to less fabric compactness and more loops available for twisting. In conclusion, using lower yarn counts and stitch lengths can help manufacturers reduce spirality issues in knitted fabrics.
This document discusses different types of woven pile fabrics. It begins by defining pile fabrics as those with tufts of cut warp or weft threads projecting at right angles from the foundation to form a brush-like surface. Pile fabrics are classified as either weft pile fabrics, like velveteen and corduroy, or warp pile fabrics, like velvet. The document then focuses on weft pile fabrics, describing their construction including the use of two types of weft threads and a low warp sett to allow for a high density of weft picks. Common weft pile fabrics are discussed along with details of velveteen fabrics and their classifications. The cutting of the pile floats is also briefly described.
Seam And its Classification with seam problemSadia Textile
Like Comment And download.
What is Seam?
A seam is a joint of two pieces of fabric in producing a three -dimensional shape of a garment.
Properties of good seam are,
= Smooth fabric joints
= No Missed or Uneven stitches
= No damage to the material being sewn
= Achievement of strength, elasticity, Durability, security and comfort
= Comfortable while garment is in use
SEAMS DESIGNATION
Each stitched seam is designed numerically by five digits:
0.00.00 refers to the CLASS, 1-8;
0.00.00 refers to the material configuration,
01 to 99;
0.00.00 refers to needle penetrations, material configurations, 01-99.
Seam Classification:
According to British Standard 3870: 1991, seam is classified as-
Class 1- superimposed
Class 2- lapped
Class 3- bound
Class 4- flat
Class 5- decorative/channel
Class 6- edge neatening
Class 7- applied
Class 8- others
* Formed by lapping two pieces of component, they are produced with minimum of two pieces of component.
* One component is limited on one end and the other is limited on the other end. The limited edges of these two components are put in opposite directions.
* Used for: main seaming of denim jackets, jeans, and overalls. Fabrics that will not ravel, unlined garments, side seams of shirts, joining lace to another fabric, attaching patch pockets, decorative finish
This document is a project report submitted by Rishita Paharya, a second year student of fashion design, towards the partial fulfillment of her diploma. The report discusses various types of seams and stitches based on the British Standard 3870. It provides details on plain seams, lapped seams, mock flat fell seams, butt seams, and different stitching classes. The report aims to specify the basic classes of stitches and various types of seams according to the British standards.
This document discusses various yarn faults that occur during the warping process in weaving, including slubs, neps, thick and thin places, soft yarn, oily stained yarn, kitty yarn, hairiness, and foreign matters. It provides definitions of each fault and recommends remedies to improve yarn quality and warping efficiency such as maintaining clean machinery, optimizing machine settings, improving fiber blending, and ensuring proper material handling procedures. The objectives of the project are also listed as researching yarn faults, analyzing faults in warping, selecting raw materials, improving product quality and reducing wastage.
Introduction, Classification,Characteristics, plain weave,Modification of plain weave, warp rip weave, weft rip weave, uses, matt rib weave, Twill weave, Classification of twill weave, right hand and left hand twill herring bone, satin and sateen weave and End uses of satin and sateen weave
Presentation on plain weave or fabric structure & designJashiarRahman
This document provides information on different types of yarns used in weaving (warp and weft yarns), weave structures like plain weave and its derivatives like rib weave and matt weave. It discusses the key characteristics of different weave types including repeat size, number of shafts required, effect on the fabric surface and strength. The document also covers concepts like interlacing ratio, free fields and drafting plans that determine the weaving pattern. Overall, the document presents an overview of fundamental weaving concepts and how yarn structure and weave pattern influence the properties of woven fabrics.
The document discusses defects that can occur in knitted fabrics. It begins by defining a fabric defect as an abnormality that spoils the fabric's appearance and affects its performance. There are many types of defects that can be caused by a variety of reasons. Specific defects mentioned include knots, which come from yarn winding and can cause breaks during knitting. Factors that influence the rate of end breaks due to knots are then discussed, such as knitting pattern, yarn type, tension, stitch depth, and machine settings. The document also mentions that computer vision methods like texture recognition can be used to detect common fabric defects like cracks, holes, and stains.
This document discusses various work aids used in sewing machines to improve production and quality. It describes guides, compensating feet, specialized feet, stitching jigs, rack guides, lights, folders, slack feeders, elastification, thread cutters, and stackers. It also discusses sewing thread requirements including tensile strength, elongation, shrinkage, abrasion resistance, and fiber types. Finally, it covers thread numbering systems like ticket and tex numbering and factors that influence sewability.
A presentation on the technology of thread and seams, including thread and needle types, sizing conventions, seam and stitch types, and trouble shooting.
The document discusses different types of knitting faults that occur in knit fabrics, their causes, and potential remedies. It analyzes data from quality inspection sheets of various knit fabric samples and examines how changing stitch length affects common faults. The types of faults studied include holes/cracks, loops/dropped stitches, Lycra out, knots, barre, streaks, snarls, contaminations, spirality, needle lines, sinker lines, oil lines, surface hairiness, pilling, and bowing. Statistical analysis of single jersey fabric samples shows the percentage of each fault can be reduced from the existing process to a developing process by implementing remedies such as ensuring uniform yarn tension, feed rate, and fabric
Sewing problems consist of issues with stitch formation, seam pucker, and fabric damage at the seam line. Problems with stitch formation include slipped stitches, staggered stitches, unbalanced stitches, variable stitch density, and frequent thread breakage. These issues are caused by improper needle size/tension, thread size, and machine adjustments. Seam pucker is caused by unequal fabric stretch, shrinkage differences between fabrics, excessive thread tension, and thread/fabric properties. Fabric damage occurs from mechanical damage or heat damage by the needle, which can be addressed by selecting the proper needle size/shape and machine settings.
This document is a submission by Ormee Kumar Dey on the subject of knit machine attachments. It includes definitions of key textile terms like yarn, fabric, and different types of fabrics. It then focuses on different types of knitting structures like warp knitting and weft knitting. Details are provided on knitting loops, stitches, needle types including latch needles and bearded needles, and how to set parameters for weft knitting machines. Fabric structures, properties, and calculations are also summarized.
Knowing the basics of raw material, yarn production process and the other factors influencing quality will put the sourcing manager at the same eye level as a spinner /supplier when negotiating quality issues.
As a consequence this puts the sourcing manager in the position to pay the right price for the corresponding quality level.
This kind of know-how supports a retailer enormously in his efforts to establish a reliable supply chain which is based on mutual understanding.
This document discusses various types of fabric defects that can occur during the manufacturing process. Some common defects include slubs from improper carding or combing, knots from thread breaks, missing ends from issues with the loom, and stains from improper oiling of looms. The causes and potential remedies for different defects in woven fabrics are explained in detail. The document also provides information on standard commercial fabrics like georgette, chiffon, and voile that are made from plain weaves.
Recent Developments and Analysis of Electromagnetic Metamaterial with all of ...IOSR Journals
Abstract: Recent advances in metamaterials (MMs) research have highlighted the possibility to create novel
devices with electromagnetic functionality. The metamaterial have the power which can easily construct
materials with a user-designed EM response with a particular target frequency. This is the important
phenomena of THz frequency region that can make a considerable progress in design fabrication, and define the
characteristics of MMs at THz frequencies. This article illustrates the latest advancements of THz MMs
research.
Key word: Metamaterials (MMs), Terahertz (THz).
This document provides a review of different classifiers used for text classification on social media data. It discusses how social media data is often unstructured and contains users' opinions and sentiments. Various machine learning algorithms can be used to classify this social media text data, extracting meaningful information. The document focuses on describing Naive Bayes classifiers, which are commonly used for text classification tasks. It explains how Naive Bayes classifiers work by calculating the posterior probability that a document belongs to a certain class, based on applying Bayes' theorem with an independence assumption between features.
This document discusses yarn properties that are important for knitting, including count, twist, evenness, and imperfections. It compares combed and carded yarns, noting that combed yarn is of higher quality with fewer imperfections. Combed yarn produces knit fabrics with less pilling, shrinkage, and higher grammage. While more expensive to produce, combed yarn results in fabrics with better properties for knitting. The document also discusses yarn count, count variation, unevenness percentage, and classifications of yarn fineness.
Study on Different Types of Knitting Faults, Causes and Remedies of Knit FabricsMd. Ariful Islam
This document discusses various types of knitting faults that can occur in knit fabrics, their causes, and potential remedies. It outlines 20 different types of common knitting defects such as drop stitches, barriness, pin holes, and broken needles. For each defect type, the document explains the likely causes such as yarn tension issues, machine problems, or material quality issues. It then provides recommendations for remedies such as ensuring uniform yarn tension, properly maintaining machine parts, and using quality materials. The goal is to help knitting mills identify and address defects in order to improve fabric quality and avoid rejections.
There are several types of seams used in garment construction, each with a specific purpose and application. Flat seams join fabric edges without extra thickness. Superimposed seams create neat, load-bearing seams. Lapped seams are used for rainwear. Lap felled seams involve one stitch for a strong, protected seam. Bound seams produce a neat finished edge. Decorative seams add ornamental detail. Edge finishing seams neaten cut edges. Common seam problems include puckering, slippage, and skipped stitches, which can be addressed through tension and feed adjustments or material choices.
This document provides information about dimensional stability and geometry in weft knit fabric. It was presented by 7 students from the Textile department of Bangladesh University of Business & Technology. The key points discussed include how knitted fabrics are prone to changes in size and shape from wear and washing. It also discusses dimensional stability states, loop length, areal density, fabric cover, tightness factor, and spirality - defined as dimensional distortion where wale rows are not perpendicular to courses. Formulas are presented for factors that influence the angle of spirality, such as the number of feeders, loop shape, and number of active needles.
Effect of count and stitch length on spirality of single jersey knit fabriceSAT Publishing House
This study examined the effect of yarn count and stitch length on spirality in single jersey knit fabrics. 12 fabric samples were produced with variations in count (30-40 Ne) and stitch length (2.6-2.95 mm). The samples were tested for spirality after scouring, bleaching, dyeing and finishing. The results showed that spirality increased as stitch length increased due to more yarn twisting. Spirality also increased with higher yarn counts due to less fabric compactness and more loops available for twisting. In conclusion, using lower yarn counts and stitch lengths can help manufacturers reduce spirality issues in knitted fabrics.
This document discusses different types of woven pile fabrics. It begins by defining pile fabrics as those with tufts of cut warp or weft threads projecting at right angles from the foundation to form a brush-like surface. Pile fabrics are classified as either weft pile fabrics, like velveteen and corduroy, or warp pile fabrics, like velvet. The document then focuses on weft pile fabrics, describing their construction including the use of two types of weft threads and a low warp sett to allow for a high density of weft picks. Common weft pile fabrics are discussed along with details of velveteen fabrics and their classifications. The cutting of the pile floats is also briefly described.
Seam And its Classification with seam problemSadia Textile
Like Comment And download.
What is Seam?
A seam is a joint of two pieces of fabric in producing a three -dimensional shape of a garment.
Properties of good seam are,
= Smooth fabric joints
= No Missed or Uneven stitches
= No damage to the material being sewn
= Achievement of strength, elasticity, Durability, security and comfort
= Comfortable while garment is in use
SEAMS DESIGNATION
Each stitched seam is designed numerically by five digits:
0.00.00 refers to the CLASS, 1-8;
0.00.00 refers to the material configuration,
01 to 99;
0.00.00 refers to needle penetrations, material configurations, 01-99.
Seam Classification:
According to British Standard 3870: 1991, seam is classified as-
Class 1- superimposed
Class 2- lapped
Class 3- bound
Class 4- flat
Class 5- decorative/channel
Class 6- edge neatening
Class 7- applied
Class 8- others
* Formed by lapping two pieces of component, they are produced with minimum of two pieces of component.
* One component is limited on one end and the other is limited on the other end. The limited edges of these two components are put in opposite directions.
* Used for: main seaming of denim jackets, jeans, and overalls. Fabrics that will not ravel, unlined garments, side seams of shirts, joining lace to another fabric, attaching patch pockets, decorative finish
This document is a project report submitted by Rishita Paharya, a second year student of fashion design, towards the partial fulfillment of her diploma. The report discusses various types of seams and stitches based on the British Standard 3870. It provides details on plain seams, lapped seams, mock flat fell seams, butt seams, and different stitching classes. The report aims to specify the basic classes of stitches and various types of seams according to the British standards.
This document discusses various yarn faults that occur during the warping process in weaving, including slubs, neps, thick and thin places, soft yarn, oily stained yarn, kitty yarn, hairiness, and foreign matters. It provides definitions of each fault and recommends remedies to improve yarn quality and warping efficiency such as maintaining clean machinery, optimizing machine settings, improving fiber blending, and ensuring proper material handling procedures. The objectives of the project are also listed as researching yarn faults, analyzing faults in warping, selecting raw materials, improving product quality and reducing wastage.
Introduction, Classification,Characteristics, plain weave,Modification of plain weave, warp rip weave, weft rip weave, uses, matt rib weave, Twill weave, Classification of twill weave, right hand and left hand twill herring bone, satin and sateen weave and End uses of satin and sateen weave
Presentation on plain weave or fabric structure & designJashiarRahman
This document provides information on different types of yarns used in weaving (warp and weft yarns), weave structures like plain weave and its derivatives like rib weave and matt weave. It discusses the key characteristics of different weave types including repeat size, number of shafts required, effect on the fabric surface and strength. The document also covers concepts like interlacing ratio, free fields and drafting plans that determine the weaving pattern. Overall, the document presents an overview of fundamental weaving concepts and how yarn structure and weave pattern influence the properties of woven fabrics.
The document discusses defects that can occur in knitted fabrics. It begins by defining a fabric defect as an abnormality that spoils the fabric's appearance and affects its performance. There are many types of defects that can be caused by a variety of reasons. Specific defects mentioned include knots, which come from yarn winding and can cause breaks during knitting. Factors that influence the rate of end breaks due to knots are then discussed, such as knitting pattern, yarn type, tension, stitch depth, and machine settings. The document also mentions that computer vision methods like texture recognition can be used to detect common fabric defects like cracks, holes, and stains.
This document discusses various work aids used in sewing machines to improve production and quality. It describes guides, compensating feet, specialized feet, stitching jigs, rack guides, lights, folders, slack feeders, elastification, thread cutters, and stackers. It also discusses sewing thread requirements including tensile strength, elongation, shrinkage, abrasion resistance, and fiber types. Finally, it covers thread numbering systems like ticket and tex numbering and factors that influence sewability.
A presentation on the technology of thread and seams, including thread and needle types, sizing conventions, seam and stitch types, and trouble shooting.
The document discusses different types of knitting faults that occur in knit fabrics, their causes, and potential remedies. It analyzes data from quality inspection sheets of various knit fabric samples and examines how changing stitch length affects common faults. The types of faults studied include holes/cracks, loops/dropped stitches, Lycra out, knots, barre, streaks, snarls, contaminations, spirality, needle lines, sinker lines, oil lines, surface hairiness, pilling, and bowing. Statistical analysis of single jersey fabric samples shows the percentage of each fault can be reduced from the existing process to a developing process by implementing remedies such as ensuring uniform yarn tension, feed rate, and fabric
Sewing problems consist of issues with stitch formation, seam pucker, and fabric damage at the seam line. Problems with stitch formation include slipped stitches, staggered stitches, unbalanced stitches, variable stitch density, and frequent thread breakage. These issues are caused by improper needle size/tension, thread size, and machine adjustments. Seam pucker is caused by unequal fabric stretch, shrinkage differences between fabrics, excessive thread tension, and thread/fabric properties. Fabric damage occurs from mechanical damage or heat damage by the needle, which can be addressed by selecting the proper needle size/shape and machine settings.
This document is a submission by Ormee Kumar Dey on the subject of knit machine attachments. It includes definitions of key textile terms like yarn, fabric, and different types of fabrics. It then focuses on different types of knitting structures like warp knitting and weft knitting. Details are provided on knitting loops, stitches, needle types including latch needles and bearded needles, and how to set parameters for weft knitting machines. Fabric structures, properties, and calculations are also summarized.
Knowing the basics of raw material, yarn production process and the other factors influencing quality will put the sourcing manager at the same eye level as a spinner /supplier when negotiating quality issues.
As a consequence this puts the sourcing manager in the position to pay the right price for the corresponding quality level.
This kind of know-how supports a retailer enormously in his efforts to establish a reliable supply chain which is based on mutual understanding.
This document discusses various types of fabric defects that can occur during the manufacturing process. Some common defects include slubs from improper carding or combing, knots from thread breaks, missing ends from issues with the loom, and stains from improper oiling of looms. The causes and potential remedies for different defects in woven fabrics are explained in detail. The document also provides information on standard commercial fabrics like georgette, chiffon, and voile that are made from plain weaves.
Recent Developments and Analysis of Electromagnetic Metamaterial with all of ...IOSR Journals
Abstract: Recent advances in metamaterials (MMs) research have highlighted the possibility to create novel
devices with electromagnetic functionality. The metamaterial have the power which can easily construct
materials with a user-designed EM response with a particular target frequency. This is the important
phenomena of THz frequency region that can make a considerable progress in design fabrication, and define the
characteristics of MMs at THz frequencies. This article illustrates the latest advancements of THz MMs
research.
Key word: Metamaterials (MMs), Terahertz (THz).
This document provides a review of different classifiers used for text classification on social media data. It discusses how social media data is often unstructured and contains users' opinions and sentiments. Various machine learning algorithms can be used to classify this social media text data, extracting meaningful information. The document focuses on describing Naive Bayes classifiers, which are commonly used for text classification tasks. It explains how Naive Bayes classifiers work by calculating the posterior probability that a document belongs to a certain class, based on applying Bayes' theorem with an independence assumption between features.
The study of semiconductor layer effect on underground cables with Time Domai...IOSR Journals
This document presents a study on how the semiconductor layers in underground cables can affect Time Domain Reflectometry (TDR) measurements. The researchers developed a circuit model that includes the electrical resistance of the semiconductor layers to better simulate TDR signals. Simulations using the proposed model showed good agreement with measurements from a new cable but not an aged cable. The model was updated to represent resistance in the aged cable's semiconductor layers caused by degradation over time. Simulations with this updated model matched experimental TDR results from the aged cable better than the original model. The study demonstrates that changes in semiconductor layer resistance due to aging can impact TDR pulse propagation in cables.
The document compares the radiation patterns of thinned and thickened linear antenna arrays. It finds that thickening reduces the null to null beamwidth without deteriorating sidelobe levels, while thinning raises sidelobe levels and beamwidth and can introduce grating lobes if not done properly. Tables show sidelobe levels and beamwidths decrease as array size increases for both thinned and thickened arrays, but thickened arrays have better performance. Patterns are evaluated for different array sizes and element amplitudes and spacings are listed for selected thinned and thickened arrays.
This document summarizes an experimental study on using swimmer bars as shear reinforcement in reinforced concrete deep beams compared to vertical stirrups. Deep beams are defined as having a shear span to depth ratio of less than or equal to 2. Four different shear reinforcement patterns were tested: vertical stirrups (control), single swimmer bars, rectangular shaped swimmer bars, and rectangular shaped swimmer bars with cross bracings. Test results showed that beams with single swimmer bars had the highest failure load, increasing flexural strength by about 22% compared to the control beam. Beams with rectangular swimmer bars also increased strength but by a lesser amount. Crack patterns were diagonal shear cracks in all beams.
This document provides a review of the impact of microstructures on the engineering properties of aluminum alloys. It begins by discussing the increased use of aluminum alloys in automotive and aerospace industries due to their high strength-to-weight ratio and corrosion resistance over steel. It then examines the microstructures and resulting mechanical properties of several major aluminum alloy series, including 2XXX (Al+Cu), 3XXX (Al+Mn), and 4XXX (Al+Si) alloys. For each series, it describes the intermediate phases that form during processing and how they influence properties such as hardness and strength. The review concludes by noting opportunities for additional research into composite materials using these alloys and the relationship between alloy composition and micro
This document discusses the design of an asynchronous Viterbi decoder using a bundled data protocol to reduce power consumption. Viterbi decoders are commonly used in wireless communications and other applications, but synchronous implementations consume significant power due to global clock distribution. The proposed asynchronous design uses local handshaking signals between blocks rather than a global clock. It employs a 4-phase bundled data protocol to communicate data between units like the branch metric unit, add-compare-select unit, and survivor path memory unit. The goal is to optimize these power-intensive units and achieve lower power operation through an asynchronous, clock-free design approach compared to traditional synchronous Viterbi decoders.
Application of Big Data in Intelligent Traffic SystemIOSR Journals
This document discusses using big data technology to improve intelligent traffic systems. It begins by outlining challenges faced by traditional traffic management systems, including inability to handle rapidly growing data and inefficient processing. The document then proposes an architecture for an intelligent transportation system built on a big data platform, with layers for basic operations, data analysis, and information publishing. Key data analysis technologies discussed include calculating traffic flow at intersections, average road speeds, querying vehicle travel paths, and identifying fake vehicles. Overall, the document argues big data can help resolve issues faced by traditional systems and improve traffic management, safety, and efficiency.
This document summarizes an artificially intelligent investment risk calculation system based on distributed data mining. The system uses a web-based platform to provide registered users investment recommendations and risk assessments based on their financial transaction history. It analyzes data from financial sectors to guide users on investment decisions. It also models an internal bank loan process, tracking employee credibility and targets to distribute profits/losses. The system was developed using HTML, CSS, JavaScript, MySQL, and JSP. It stores user and transaction data in relational databases to power its artificial intelligence algorithms for investment suggestions and risk calculations.
This document discusses developing a mobile enrollment system for universities in Nigeria. Currently, most university enrollment processes in Nigeria are done manually, which causes long wait times and errors. The authors propose creating a mobile application that would allow students to complete the enrollment process from any location using a mobile device. They conducted a survey that found undergraduate students would most favor such a system and that the main motivations for using a mobile app would be to save time and costs. The authors conclude a mobile enrollment system could speed up the process, reduce errors and provide users with increased convenience and security.
Cryptography On Android Message Application Using Look Up Table And Dynamic ...IOSR Journals
This document describes a proposed cryptography algorithm called CAMA for encrypting SMS messages on Android devices. CAMA uses a static lookup table and dynamic key for symmetric encryption and decryption. The algorithm converts plain text to cipher text using the lookup table and encrypts the dynamic key, which is a combination of characteristics of the message, for decryption. The goals of the algorithm are to provide secure and simple encryption of SMS messages on mobile phones.
This document summarizes a research paper on developing a smart blood bank system as a cloud-based service. The proposed system aims to address issues with conventional blood bank management systems, especially in rural areas, by providing online access and data sharing capabilities. It utilizes a multi-tenant cloud architecture that allows individual blood banks to register and store their data independently, while also linking the databases to provide a unified search portal for users. The system is intended to improve blood availability information and help connect donors with seekers more efficiently.
A Review: Machine vision and its ApplicationsIOSR Journals
Abstract:The machine vision has been used in the industrial machine designing by using the intelligent character recognition. Due to its increased use, it makes the significant contribution to ensure the competitiveness in modern development. The state of art in machine vision inspection and a critical overview of applications in various industries are presented in this paper. In its restricted sense it is also known as the computer vision or the robot vision. This paper gives the overview of Machine Vision Technology in the first section, followed by various industrial application and thefuture trends in Machine Vision. Keywords:CCD- charged coupled devices, Fruit harvesting system, HIS- Hue Saturation Intensity, Image analysis, Image enhancement, Image feature extraction, Image feature classification processing, Intelligent Vehicle tracking , Isodiscriminationn Contour, Machine Vision
Chemical Reaction Effects on Free Convective Flow of a Polar Fluid from a Ver...IOSR Journals
This article deals with a study of two dimensional free convective flow of a polar fluid through a porous medium due to combined effects of thermal and mass diffusion in presence of a chemical reaction of first order. The objective of the present investigation is to analyze the free convective flow in the presence of prescribed wall heat flux and mass flux condition. The governing partial differential equations are non-dimensionalized and transformed into a system of non-similar equations. The resulting coupled nonlinear partial differential equations are solved numerically under appropriate transformed boundary conditions using an implicit finite difference scheme in combination with quasilinearisation technique. Computations are performed for a wide range of values of the various governing flow parameters of the velocity, angular velocity, temperature and species concentration profiles and results are presented graphically. The numerical results for local skin friction coefficient, couple stress coefficient, local Nusselt number and local Sherwood number are also presented. The obtained results are compared with previously published work and were to be in excellent agreement. The study reveals that the flow characteristics are profoundly influenced by the polar effects
This document discusses controlling magnetic flux density in active magnetic bearings. It describes how active magnetic bearings use electromagnets and feedback control loops to levitate and stabilize a rotating shaft without physical contact. Various sensor types are discussed for measuring the displacement of the levitated rotor, including inductive, eddy current, and capacitive sensors. The relationship between actuator current and magnetic force is explained, showing how current controls the flux density and resulting forces in the bearing.
This document provides a review of simulation techniques for parallel and distributed computing. It discusses several key topics:
1) It defines parallel computing, distributed computing, and parallel and distributed computing systems. Various classification schemes for parallel and distributed systems are also described.
2) It examines several modeling techniques for parallel and distributed systems including system modeling, network modeling, performance modeling, and mathematical modeling. It provides details on parallel discrete event simulation.
3) It reviews several simulation software tools used for modeling parallel and distributed systems including SimOS, SimJava, and MicroGrid.
4) It concludes with a focused discussion on cloud computing as the latest development in parallel and distributed computing.
Natural Radioactivity of Feed Coal and Its by-products in Barapukuria 2×125 M...IOSR Journals
The detection and measurement of radionuclides in feed coal, bottom ash and fly ash samples collected from Barapukuria 2×125 MW coal-fired thermal power plant in Dinajpur district of Bangladesh, have been performed by gamma ray spectrometry technique. The average activity concentrations of 226Ra, 232Th and 40K in feed coal, bottom ash and fly ash samples were 10.46±5.24, 23.50±10.88 and 232.23±131.94 Bqkg-1; 56.91±2.77, 69.22±4.26 and 189.79±64.65 Bqkg-1; and 70.91±2.90, 115.26±5.79 and 205.53±65.56 Bqkg-1; respectively. These measured values were compared with other literature values. The calculated absorbed dose rates were found higher than the worldwide average values for both the bottom ash and fly ash samples. Moreover, the radium equivalent activity in all the samples was less than 370 Bqkg-1 and external hazard indices were less than unity (except in FA-1). Therefore, there is no probability of immediate health effect on workers and public due to natural radioactivity present in the samples.
Comparative Study on Selected Physical Fitness Components among the Physical ...IOSR Journals
This document summarizes a study that compared selected physical fitness components among physical education students from three universities in West Bengal, India. The study found:
1) There was a significant difference in agility and cardiovascular endurance between the universities, with students from Visva Bharati University scoring significantly better in agility than the other two universities.
2) While there were mean differences in explosive power between the groups, the differences were not statistically significant, indicating no significant differences between universities.
3) In conclusion, physical education students significantly differed in agility and cardiovascular endurance based on university, but did not significantly differ in explosive power.
Analysis of Butterworth and Chebyshev Filters for ECG Denoising Using WaveletsIOSR Journals
Abstract: A wide area of research has been done in the field of noise removal in Electrocardiogram signals.. Electrocardiograms (ECG) play an important role in diagnosis process and providing information regarding heart diseases. In this paper, we propose a new method for removing the baseline wander interferences, based on discrete wavelet transform and Butterworth/Chebyshev filtering. The ECG data is taken from non-invasive fetal electrocardiogram database, while noise signal is generated and added to the original signal using instructions in MATLAB environment. Our proposed method is a hybrid technique, which combines Daubechies wavelet decomposition and different thresholding techniques with Butterworth or Chebyshev filter. DWT has good ability to decompose the signal and wavelet thresholding is good in removing noise from decomposed signal. Filtering is done for improved denoising performence. Here quantitative study of result evaluation has been done between Butterworth and Chebyshev filters based on minimum mean squared error (MSE), higher values of signal to interference ratio and peak signal to noise ratio in MATLAB environment using wavelet and signal processing toolbox. The results proved that the denoised signal using Butterworth filter has a better balance between smoothness and accuracy than the Chebvshev filter. Keywords: Electrocardiogram, Discrete Wavelet transform, Baseline Wandering, Thresholding, Butterworth, Chebyshev
1. The document analyzes the nutritional composition, physicochemical properties, and short-term toxicological effects of beniseed (Sesanum indicum) oil in albino rats.
2. The beniseed was found to contain moderate levels of protein, fat, and carbohydrates, making it a good source of nutrients. Its oil had properties suggesting potential industrial and dietary uses.
3. Rats fed a diet with 5% beniseed oil showed increased weight gain and feed consumption compared to controls, with no significant differences in organ weights or blood parameters, indicating no apparent toxic effects of short-term consumption.
This document discusses different types of seams used in garment construction. It begins by defining a seam as the place where two pieces of fabric are joined together with stitches. It then provides details on 7 common types of seams - superimposed seam, lapped seam, bound seam, flat seam, decorative seam, edge neatening seam, and a seam similar to a lapped seam. For each seam type, it provides a definition and examples of typical usages. It concludes by discussing best practices for seams and factors that can affect the appearance of a seam.
This document is a project report submitted by Tanuja Sahu, a second year student of fashion design, towards the partial fulfillment of her diploma. The report discusses various types of seams and stitches based on the British standards 3870:1991. It provides definitions and examples of different seam types classified under 8 categories in the British standard. These include superimposed seams, lapped seams, bound seams, flat seams, decorative seams, edge neatening seams, and seams for adding separate items or making loops. The report also lists common stitch types from the British standard classified based on the number of threads used.
This document discusses quality control in the knitting process. It describes how effective quality control is important to reduce costs from defects, prevent customer dissatisfaction, and maintain quality. Several factors that can affect knitted fabric quality are discussed, including yarn properties, knitting machine parameters, process monitoring systems, and common fabric defects. Quality is maintained through controls on properties like loop length, tension, and defect detection.
This document is a project report submitted by Geeta Kumari, a student of fashion design, on the topic of garment technology. The report provides information on different types of seams and stitches, including definitions and examples. It discusses plain seams, lapped seams, French seams, flat felled seams, and more. It also covers topics like stitch per inch, classes of stitches, types of seams including superimposed seams, lapped seams, and bound seams. The report was submitted to fulfill requirements for Geeta Kumari's two-year diploma in fashion design.
This project report discusses seams and stitches. It defines seams and their importance in garment construction. It describes 17 types of seams including plain, lapped, French, and flat felled seams. It also discusses stitches per inch and classes of stitches according to the British Standard 3870 Part 1. The classes include chain, lock, and overlock stitches. The report provides examples of typical stitch classes and their uses such as Class 301 for seaming and Class 504 for finishing seams. Overall, the document provides a comprehensive overview of different seams and stitch types used in garment construction.
This document discusses opportunities and challenges for textile reinforced composites. It describes how textiles can be formed using various processes like weaving, knitting, braiding, and direct forming to create structures with multiple fiber orientations. Textiles are considered to have cost advantages over tape layup methods. However, shaping textiles to create tapered or complex geometries can introduce variations in fiber volume fraction, weave angle, yarn distribution, and mechanical properties across the structure. Careful design is required to minimize these variations.
Guidelines for selection of yarn part 2 12.02.14Ravikeerthi Rao
Twist is the primary binding mechanism for spun yarns. The amount and direction of twist influences many yarn and fabric properties. For knitting yarns, less twist is preferred to produce softer yarns and fabrics. Twist also affects strength, elongation, hairiness, torque, and cover factor. Maintaining a consistent twist level within 3.5% CV is important to avoid quality issues. The formation of spirality in knitted fabrics can be reduced through methods like using low-twist yarns, balanced plied yarns, or alternating S-twist and Z-twist yarns in the feeders.
This document is a project report submitted by Dimpal Chouhan, a student at Dezyne E'cole College, on stitches and seam classes. The report begins with an acknowledgment and introduction. It then discusses stitches per inch, different types of seams suitable for various fabrics, and 7 classes of seams as defined by the British Standard. Each seam class has multiple seam types described in detail. The report concludes with applications and advantages/disadvantages of different stitch types. In summary, the document provides an in-depth overview of various stitches and seam constructions as part of Dimpal Chouhan's coursework at Dezyne E'cole College.
The document discusses the importance of thoroughly understanding sewing thread. It covers various factors that affect the aesthetics and performance of threads, such as color, luster, thickness, seam strength, and abrasion resistance. Additionally, it describes different types of threads based on their substrate, construction, and finish to achieve properties like high strength, smoothness, and durability. Proper thread selection and an understanding of thread parameters are essential for achieving good sewing performance and seam quality.
This document discusses warping, which is the process of winding warp yarn parallel onto a warp beam in textile manufacturing. It defines warping and describes the requirements, such as uniform spacing and tension of ends. It discusses different types of warping like direct/beam warping and sectional warping. Direct warping is described as a high-speed process using a simple beam suitable for single-color fabrics. The components and working principle of a direct warping machine are explained. Advantages like high production and disadvantages like unsuitability for stripe fabrics are provided. Calculations for determining yarn length per beam are shown. Common warping faults and how to improve the beam warping process are also covered.
This document discusses spirality in weft knitted fabrics. It begins by defining spirality as occurring when the wale is not perpendicular to the course, forming an angle. It then discusses various causes of spirality, including yarn properties like count, twist, and spinning method. Fabric properties like structure, tightness, and relaxation can also influence spirality. The document outlines the project's methodology, which included measuring wales per inch, courses per inch, spirality angle, stitch length, and yarn count for various fabric samples. Data from these measurements on 9 samples is presented in tables. In summary, the document provides background information on spirality and outlines the methodology used to analyze it for different knitted fabric samples
This document discusses the effect of twist on the properties of weft knitted fabrics. It begins by introducing knitting and some key properties of knitted fabrics. It then discusses yarn count, twist, and how twist affects yarn and fabric properties like handle, moisture absorption, wearing properties, and aesthetics. The document outlines plans to produce nine fabric samples with the same yarn count and structure but varying twist per inch to analyze differences in bursting strength, pilling resistance, and spirality. The goal is to better understand how twist impacts knitted fabric quality.
The document discusses different types of knitting faults that occur in knit fabrics, their causes, and potential remedies. It analyzes data from quality inspection sheets of various knit fabric samples and examines how changing stitch length affects common faults. The types of faults studied include holes/cracks, loops/dropped stitches, Lycra out, knots, and others. Data is presented on the percentage of different faults found in single jersey fabric samples before and after implementing remedies to reduce faults. Implementing remedies such as ensuring uniform yarn tension, regulating yarn feed rate, and adjusting machine settings helped minimize common faults like holes, barre, streaks, and others.
1. The document discusses different types of sewing machines and their uses, including manually operated machines for domestic use and electrically operated industrial machines for garment production.
2. It describes various sewing stitches like lockstitch, chainstitch, zigzag stitch and their classifications. Physical properties of ideal seams like strength, durability and appearance are outlined.
3. Common sewing problems are explained, such as slipped stitches, staggered stitches and seam pucker formation. Causes and remedies for these problems are provided.
Study of relationship between seam slippage& strengthAbdur Rahim Khan
1. The document outlines a research project on analyzing factors that influence seam slippage in woven garments.
2. The project will examine the effect of fabric properties like GSM, cover factor, and thickness on seam slippage strength. Fabric samples with different values for these properties will be stitched and tested.
3. Mathematical relationships and graphs will be used to determine the dependency and correlation between seam slippage strength and the structural parameters of the woven fabrics. Test results and data analysis will be included in the project report.
FAULTS OF SPUN YARN AND TYPES OF SIZINGAmirul Eahsan
This document summarizes a presentation on faults in spun yarn and types of sizing. It discusses different types of faults that can occur in spun yarn, such as thin places, thick places, slubs, neps, and hairiness. It also explains what sizing is and why it is important for weaving. Sizing applies a protective coating to the yarn surface to reduce breakage during weaving. Different levels of sizing are used depending on the type of yarn, including pure, light, medium, and heavy sizing.
The document discusses 8 different types of seams classified by the British Standards Institution. It begins by introducing seams and their purpose in apparel manufacturing. It then provides definitions and diagrams for each of the 8 seam classes: Class 1 - Plain Seam, Class 2 - Lapped Seam, Class 3 - Bound Seam, Class 4 - Flat Seam, Class 5 - Ornamental Seam, Class 6 - Edge Neating Seam, Class 7 - Applied Seam, Class 8 - Waistband Seam. Popular sewing machines used in garment industry such as buttonhole and overlock machines are also described.
This project report summarizes various classes of stitches and types of seams according to British standards. It discusses stitches per inch guidelines for different fabrics, defines different types of seams like plain, french, and flat felled seams. It also explains 8 classes of stitches - from superimposed and lapped seams to edge neatening and decorative seams. Specific lockstitch, chainstitch and coverstitch formations are also outlined. The report aims to provide information on standard stitches and seams for fashion design students.
sewing thread is a flexible, small diameter yarn or strand usually treated with a surface coating, lubricant or both, intended to be used to stitch one or more pieces of material or an object to a material.
This document discusses various defects that can occur in terry fabrics during manufacturing and their causes and remedies. It describes defects such as cracks when changing from border to pile weaves, random warp-wise cracks, mixed terry loops, uneven loops, ridgy terry, dark streaks, and curled and folded selvedges. Each defect is explained in terms of its causes, such as improper drawing of yarns, differences in yarn properties, loose pile ends being interfered with by tight ground ends, and slackness in selvedges. Remedies provided include separating pile and ground yarns, rearranging the drawing of yarns, and ensuring proper yarn and machine settings to minimize defects and improve
Similar to “Evaluation of Sewing Performance of Plain Twill and Satin Fabrics Based On Seam Slippage Seam Strength and Seam Efficiency (20)
This document provides a technical review of secure banking using RSA and AES encryption methodologies. It discusses how RSA and AES are commonly used encryption standards for secure data transmission between ATMs and bank servers. The document first provides background on ATM security measures and risks of attacks. It then reviews related work analyzing encryption techniques. The document proposes using a one-time password in addition to a PIN for ATM authentication. It concludes that implementing encryption standards like RSA and AES can make transactions more secure and build trust in online banking.
This document analyzes the performance of various modulation schemes for achieving energy efficient communication over fading channels in wireless sensor networks. It finds that for long transmission distances, low-order modulations like BPSK are optimal due to their lower SNR requirements. However, as transmission distance decreases, higher-order modulations like 16-QAM and 64-QAM become more optimal since they can transmit more bits per symbol, outweighing their higher SNR needs. Simulations show lifetime extensions up to 550% are possible in short-range networks by using higher-order modulations instead of just BPSK. The optimal modulation depends on transmission distance and balancing the energy used by electronic components versus power amplifiers.
This document provides a review of mobility management techniques in vehicular ad hoc networks (VANETs). It discusses three modes of communication in VANETs: vehicle-to-infrastructure (V2I), vehicle-to-vehicle (V2V), and hybrid vehicle (HV) communication. For each communication mode, different mobility management schemes are required due to their unique characteristics. The document also discusses mobility management challenges in VANETs and outlines some open research issues in improving mobility management for seamless communication in these dynamic networks.
This document provides a review of different techniques for segmenting brain MRI images to detect tumors. It compares the K-means and Fuzzy C-means clustering algorithms. K-means is an exclusive clustering algorithm that groups data points into distinct clusters, while Fuzzy C-means is an overlapping clustering algorithm that allows data points to belong to multiple clusters. The document finds that Fuzzy C-means requires more time for brain tumor detection compared to other methods like hierarchical clustering or K-means. It also reviews related work applying these clustering algorithms to segment brain MRI images.
1) The document simulates and compares the performance of AODV and DSDV routing protocols in a mobile ad hoc network under three conditions: when users are fixed, when users move towards the base station, and when users move away from the base station.
2) The results show that both protocols have higher packet delivery and lower packet loss when users are either fixed or moving towards the base station, since signal strength is better in those scenarios. Performance degrades when users move away from the base station due to weaker signals.
3) AODV generally has better performance than DSDV, with higher throughput and packet delivery rates observed across the different user mobility conditions.
This document describes the design and implementation of 4-bit QPSK and 256-bit QAM modulation techniques using MATLAB. It compares the two techniques based on SNR, BER, and efficiency. The key steps of implementing each technique in MATLAB are outlined, including generating random bits, modulation, adding noise, and measuring BER. Simulation results show scatter plots and eye diagrams of the modulated signals. A table compares the results, showing that 256-bit QAM provides better performance than 4-bit QPSK. The document concludes that QAM modulation is more effective for digital transmission systems.
The document proposes a hybrid technique using Anisotropic Scale Invariant Feature Transform (A-SIFT) and Robust Ensemble Support Vector Machine (RESVM) to accurately identify faces in images. A-SIFT improves upon traditional SIFT by applying anisotropic scaling to extract richer directional keypoints. Keypoints are processed with RESVM and hypothesis testing to increase accuracy above 95% by repeatedly reprocessing images until the threshold is met. The technique was tested on similar and different facial images and achieved better results than SIFT in retrieval time and reduced keypoints.
This document studies the effects of dielectric superstrate thickness on microstrip patch antenna parameters. Three types of probes-fed patch antennas (rectangular, circular, and square) were designed to operate at 2.4 GHz using Arlondiclad 880 substrate. The antennas were tested with and without an Arlondiclad 880 superstrate of varying thicknesses. It was found that adding a superstrate slightly degraded performance by lowering the resonant frequency and increasing return loss and VSWR, while decreasing bandwidth and gain. Specifically, increasing the superstrate thickness or dielectric constant resulted in greater changes to the antenna parameters.
This document describes a wireless environment monitoring system that utilizes soil energy as a sustainable power source for wireless sensors. The system uses a microbial fuel cell to generate electricity from the microbial activity in soil. Two microbial fuel cells were created using different soil types and various additives to produce different current and voltage outputs. An electronic circuit was designed on a printed circuit board with components like a microcontroller and ZigBee transceiver. Sensors for temperature and humidity were connected to the circuit to monitor the environment wirelessly. The system provides a low-cost way to power remote sensors without needing battery replacement and avoids the high costs of wiring a power source.
1) The document proposes a model for a frequency tunable inverted-F antenna that uses ferrite material.
2) The resonant frequency of the antenna can be significantly shifted from 2.41GHz to 3.15GHz, a 31% shift, by increasing the static magnetic field placed on the ferrite material.
3) Altering the permeability of the ferrite allows tuning of the antenna's resonant frequency without changing the physical dimensions, providing flexibility to operate over a wide frequency range.
This document summarizes a research paper that presents a speech enhancement method using stationary wavelet transform. The method first classifies speech into voiced, unvoiced, and silence regions based on short-time energy. It then applies different thresholding techniques to the wavelet coefficients of each region - modified hard thresholding for voiced speech, semi-soft thresholding for unvoiced speech, and setting coefficients to zero for silence. Experimental results using speech from the TIMIT database corrupted with white Gaussian noise at various SNR levels show improved performance over other popular denoising methods.
This document reviews the design of an energy-optimized wireless sensor node that encrypts data for transmission. It discusses how sensing schemes that group nodes into clusters and transmit aggregated data can reduce energy consumption compared to individual node transmissions. The proposed node design calculates the minimum transmission power needed based on received signal strength and uses a periodic sleep/wake cycle to optimize energy when not sensing or transmitting. It aims to encrypt data at both the node and network level to further optimize energy usage for wireless communication.
This document discusses group consumption modes. It analyzes factors that impact group consumption, including external environmental factors like technological developments enabling new forms of online and offline interactions, as well as internal motivational factors at both the group and individual level. The document then proposes that group consumption modes can be divided into four types based on two dimensions: vertical (group relationship intensity) and horizontal (consumption action period). These four types are instrument-oriented, information-oriented, enjoyment-oriented, and relationship-oriented consumption modes. Finally, the document notes that consumption modes are dynamic and can evolve over time.
The document summarizes a study of different microstrip patch antenna configurations with slotted ground planes. Three antenna designs were proposed and their performance evaluated through simulation: a conventional square patch, an elliptical patch, and a star-shaped patch. All antennas were mounted on an FR4 substrate. The effects of adding different slot patterns to the ground plane on resonance frequency, bandwidth, gain and efficiency were analyzed parametrically. Key findings were that reshaping the patch and adding slots increased bandwidth and shifted resonance frequency. The elliptical and star patches in particular performed better than the conventional design. Three antenna configurations were selected for fabrication and measurement based on the simulations: a conventional patch with a slot under the patch, an elliptical patch with slots
1) The document describes a study conducted to improve call drop rates in a GSM network through RF optimization.
2) Drive testing was performed before and after optimization using TEMS software to record network parameters like RxLevel, RxQuality, and events.
3) Analysis found call drops were occurring due to issues like handover failures between sectors, interference from adjacent channels, and overshooting due to antenna tilt.
4) Corrective actions taken included defining neighbors between sectors, adjusting frequencies to reduce interference, and lowering the mechanical tilt of an antenna.
5) Post-optimization drive testing showed improvements in RxLevel, RxQuality, and a reduction in dropped calls.
This document describes the design of an intelligent autonomous wheeled robot that uses RF transmission for communication. The robot has two modes - automatic mode where it can make its own decisions, and user control mode where a user can control it remotely. It is designed using a microcontroller and can perform tasks like object recognition using computer vision and color detection in MATLAB, as well as wall painting using pneumatic systems. The robot's movement is controlled by DC motors and it uses sensors like ultrasonic sensors and gas sensors to navigate autonomously. RF transmission allows communication between the robot and a remote control unit. The overall aim is to develop a low-cost robotic system for industrial applications like material handling.
This document reviews cryptography techniques to secure the Ad-hoc On-Demand Distance Vector (AODV) routing protocol in mobile ad-hoc networks. It discusses various types of attacks on AODV like impersonation, denial of service, eavesdropping, black hole attacks, wormhole attacks, and Sybil attacks. It then proposes using the RC6 cryptography algorithm to secure AODV by encrypting data packets and detecting and removing malicious nodes launching black hole attacks. Simulation results show that after applying RC6, the packet delivery ratio and throughput of AODV increase while delay decreases, improving the security and performance of the network under attack.
The document describes a proposed modification to the conventional Booth multiplier that aims to increase its speed by applying concepts from Vedic mathematics. Specifically, it utilizes the Urdhva Tiryakbhyam formula to generate all partial products concurrently rather than sequentially. The proposed 8x8 bit multiplier was coded in VHDL, simulated, and found to have a path delay 44.35% lower than a conventional Booth multiplier, demonstrating its potential for higher speed.
This document discusses image deblurring techniques. It begins by introducing image restoration and focusing on image deblurring. It then discusses challenges with image deblurring being an ill-posed problem. It reviews existing approaches to screen image deconvolution including estimating point spread functions and iteratively estimating blur kernels and sharp images. The document also discusses handling spatially variant blur and summarizes the relationship between the proposed method and previous work for different blur types. It proposes using color filters in the aperture to exploit parallax cues for segmentation and blur estimation. Finally, it proposes moving the image sensor circularly during exposure to prevent high frequency attenuation from motion blur.
This document describes modeling an adaptive controller for an aircraft roll control system using PID, fuzzy-PID, and genetic algorithm. It begins by introducing the aircraft roll control system and motivation for developing an adaptive controller to minimize errors from noisy analog sensor signals. It then provides the mathematical model of aircraft roll dynamics and describes modeling the real-time flight control system in MATLAB/Simulink. The document evaluates PID, fuzzy-PID, and PID-GA (genetic algorithm) controllers for aircraft roll control and finds that the PID-GA controller delivers the best performance.
ACEP Magazine edition 4th launched on 05.06.2024Rahul
This document provides information about the third edition of the magazine "Sthapatya" published by the Association of Civil Engineers (Practicing) Aurangabad. It includes messages from current and past presidents of ACEP, memories and photos from past ACEP events, information on life time achievement awards given by ACEP, and a technical article on concrete maintenance, repairs and strengthening. The document highlights activities of ACEP and provides a technical educational article for members.
The CBC machine is a common diagnostic tool used by doctors to measure a patient's red blood cell count, white blood cell count and platelet count. The machine uses a small sample of the patient's blood, which is then placed into special tubes and analyzed. The results of the analysis are then displayed on a screen for the doctor to review. The CBC machine is an important tool for diagnosing various conditions, such as anemia, infection and leukemia. It can also help to monitor a patient's response to treatment.
Electric vehicle and photovoltaic advanced roles in enhancing the financial p...IJECEIAES
Climate change's impact on the planet forced the United Nations and governments to promote green energies and electric transportation. The deployments of photovoltaic (PV) and electric vehicle (EV) systems gained stronger momentum due to their numerous advantages over fossil fuel types. The advantages go beyond sustainability to reach financial support and stability. The work in this paper introduces the hybrid system between PV and EV to support industrial and commercial plants. This paper covers the theoretical framework of the proposed hybrid system including the required equation to complete the cost analysis when PV and EV are present. In addition, the proposed design diagram which sets the priorities and requirements of the system is presented. The proposed approach allows setup to advance their power stability, especially during power outages. The presented information supports researchers and plant owners to complete the necessary analysis while promoting the deployment of clean energy. The result of a case study that represents a dairy milk farmer supports the theoretical works and highlights its advanced benefits to existing plants. The short return on investment of the proposed approach supports the paper's novelty approach for the sustainable electrical system. In addition, the proposed system allows for an isolated power setup without the need for a transmission line which enhances the safety of the electrical network
CHINA’S GEO-ECONOMIC OUTREACH IN CENTRAL ASIAN COUNTRIES AND FUTURE PROSPECTjpsjournal1
The rivalry between prominent international actors for dominance over Central Asia's hydrocarbon
reserves and the ancient silk trade route, along with China's diplomatic endeavours in the area, has been
referred to as the "New Great Game." This research centres on the power struggle, considering
geopolitical, geostrategic, and geoeconomic variables. Topics including trade, political hegemony, oil
politics, and conventional and nontraditional security are all explored and explained by the researcher.
Using Mackinder's Heartland, Spykman Rimland, and Hegemonic Stability theories, examines China's role
in Central Asia. This study adheres to the empirical epistemological method and has taken care of
objectivity. This study analyze primary and secondary research documents critically to elaborate role of
china’s geo economic outreach in central Asian countries and its future prospect. China is thriving in trade,
pipeline politics, and winning states, according to this study, thanks to important instruments like the
Shanghai Cooperation Organisation and the Belt and Road Economic Initiative. According to this study,
China is seeing significant success in commerce, pipeline politics, and gaining influence on other
governments. This success may be attributed to the effective utilisation of key tools such as the Shanghai
Cooperation Organisation and the Belt and Road Economic Initiative.
Literature Review Basics and Understanding Reference Management.pptxDr Ramhari Poudyal
Three-day training on academic research focuses on analytical tools at United Technical College, supported by the University Grant Commission, Nepal. 24-26 May 2024
Use PyCharm for remote debugging of WSL on a Windo cf5c162d672e4e58b4dde5d797...shadow0702a
This document serves as a comprehensive step-by-step guide on how to effectively use PyCharm for remote debugging of the Windows Subsystem for Linux (WSL) on a local Windows machine. It meticulously outlines several critical steps in the process, starting with the crucial task of enabling permissions, followed by the installation and configuration of WSL.
The guide then proceeds to explain how to set up the SSH service within the WSL environment, an integral part of the process. Alongside this, it also provides detailed instructions on how to modify the inbound rules of the Windows firewall to facilitate the process, ensuring that there are no connectivity issues that could potentially hinder the debugging process.
The document further emphasizes on the importance of checking the connection between the Windows and WSL environments, providing instructions on how to ensure that the connection is optimal and ready for remote debugging.
It also offers an in-depth guide on how to configure the WSL interpreter and files within the PyCharm environment. This is essential for ensuring that the debugging process is set up correctly and that the program can be run effectively within the WSL terminal.
Additionally, the document provides guidance on how to set up breakpoints for debugging, a fundamental aspect of the debugging process which allows the developer to stop the execution of their code at certain points and inspect their program at those stages.
Finally, the document concludes by providing a link to a reference blog. This blog offers additional information and guidance on configuring the remote Python interpreter in PyCharm, providing the reader with a well-rounded understanding of the process.
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“Evaluation of Sewing Performance of Plain Twill and Satin Fabrics Based On Seam Slippage Seam Strength and Seam Efficiency
1. IOSR Journal of Polymer and Textile Engineering (IOSR-JPTE)
e-ISSN: 2348-019X, p-ISSN: 2348-0181, Volume 1, Issue 3 (May-Jun. 2014), PP 09-21
www.iosrjournals.org
www.iosrjournals.org 9 | Page
“Evaluation of Sewing Performance of Plain Twill and Satin
Fabrics Based On Seam Slippage Seam Strength and Seam
Efficiency
G.Seetharam, L.Nagarajan
M.Tech, Department of Textile Technology ,Jaya Engineering College ,Thiruninravur-602 024
Abstract: Seam strength is an important factor in determining the durability of a garment. Seam strength is
determined by resistance to pulling force and abrasion. Seam tenacity break the fabric or the weakest stitch of
seam. Seam abrasion resistance is the amount of rubbing action needed to wear away stitches in the seam
strength is related to stitch type, thread strength ,thread tension, seam type,seam efficiency, width ,and stitches
per inch.Loop strength of thread is more important to durability the seam need not be stronger than the fabric
being sewn.A triple stitched lapped seam would not be necessary for a pair of corduroy jeans since the fabric
itself is not strong and would wear out before the seam.It is better to have the thread is an overstressed seam
that to damage the fabric.Our project objective is to find the seam of strength by using different type of
materials.
I. Introduction
Seam failure in garment can occur because of either the failure of the sewing thread leaving the Fabric
intact or fabric rupture, leaving the Sean intact or both breaking at the same. Seam strength is testing in almost
the same manner as fabric breaking and strength.
The strength of a seam or stitching should equal that of the material in order to have balanced
construction that will withstand the forces encountered in the garment of which the seam in a part.
The elements affecting the strength of a seam or stitch type thread strength type thread strength stitches
per Inch, Thread tension, seam type, seam efficiency of the material. Generally a seam made with chain stitch
will be stronger than the seam made using lock stitch.
Obviously stronger the sewing thread, the stronger the seam higher number of stronger the sea, higher
number of stitches per inch. Up to a point will give higher seam strength but too many stitches per inch will
weaker the fabric so seam may stay intact but the fabric many rupture resulting in seam failure. Higher thread
tension will give higher seam strength but to high a thread tension will result in seam puckering. Lap felled
seam will be stronger than lapped seam. Fabric with higher seam efficiency will provide stronger seam than
fabric with lower seam efficiency.
Seam efficiently is seam strength expressed as % fabric breaking strength.
The elasticity of a stitching should be slightly greater than that of the material which it joins .so that the
material will support its share f the forces encountered in the end use of the garment .The elasticity of a seam or
stitching depended on the stitch type and thread elasticity.
Seam in woven fabrics: When garment seams are subjected to increasing transverse ,a point is reached
when the threads of the fabric which lie parallel to the seam in the “Seam allowance” are slightly and present
and unacceptable appearance such a seam has “failed” commercially even though no rupture has occurred .in
any examination of sea ,attending has to be directed to two different values of stress ,namely that at which the
seam opens to an unacceptable extent ,and that at which it finally ruptures.
The opening load is mainly dependent on:
The stitch rate
The weave structure of the fabric
The width of the seam allowance
The width of the seam fabric allowance, the seam opening and breaking loads were both found to
increase rapidly with stitch rate, the effect being most marked with plain weave structure thus an arrow Sean
allowance can to some extent be offset by increasing the stitch rate.
In is minimum sewn knot (or loop) strength of the sewing thread that governs seam strength, and not
the mean tensile strength measured directly from the cop or bobbin.
When stress is applied to a seam at right angles to list length the load is carried by the intersecting
loops of the sewing threads, and when the latter rupture, the fabric occurs at the opening of the loop. The
strength parameter that applies in therefore the loop strength rather than the straight tensile strength of the
sewing thread.
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II. Literature Review
2.1 seams
A seam is the application of a series of stitches or stitch types to one or several thickness of material
.Seam line is a stitch line of a seam; it is usually parallel to and always a appearance of the seams affects overall
attractiveness of a garment. Straight, neat ,smooth ,even seams that are not twisted ,ropey ,or rippled contribute
to aesthetics.
2.1.1Classification of Seams
2.1.1.1 Class 1-The Super Imposed Seam
The superimposed seam is the most commonly used method of seaming; however its overall
appearance can be very different when all the necessary factors have been balanced. The basic characteristic of a
superimposed seam is that the seam allowance is exactly the same on top and bottom ply.
The Plain Seam
The most basic seam can be used efficiently on straight ,curved or angular seams equally well, but the
skill level of the operative will vary depending on the intricacy of the seam
This type of seam will require some form of neatening. The quickest method will be utilizing one of the
over lock machines, the 2or 3 thread type being the most normal. The choice is dictated by the laundering
techniques, as previously discussed in the stitch types section.
Another consideration is whether the appearance of the garment is the most important factor or the
garments durability. If the garment accessitates a “tailored appearance” then the seam allowances will need to
neaten separately allowing the seam allowances to be pressed open, which will provide a smooth flat
appearance.
However if the garment is likely to be subjected to hand wear then the over locking of the seam
allowances together will help to give stability to seam and increase the strength and durability of the seam. This
particularly useful in the manufacture of shirts, blouses, pajamas and work wear type of garments.
If the garments are being produced by “out workers “the over lock facility may not be readily available,
and so the “cap edging” technique may be more practical as this performed on the lock stitch machine. This
involves the raw edge of the seam allowances being folded to the wrong side of the fabric and being stitched
along the folded edge to hold the fold securely. This technique provides stability and allows the seam to lie flat.
Because of the fold of the fabric, this, method of neatening tends to be rather bulky and therefore unsuitable for
bulky fabrics. Also the width of seam allowance needs to be increased to allow the neatening to lie flat.
Both over locking and cap edging techniques are easily produced and require minimum skill level.
However both techniques would be unsuitable for fabrics of a sheer or semi-sheer structure as the seam.
Allowance and its neatening would be visible on the right side of the garment which would obviously
impair the appearance of garment.
If the seam is to include a decorative feature such as a piping or lace insertion, the construction of the
seam is exactly the same with the inclusion of the trimming. When including such items care must be taken to
avoid unnecessary bulk, which can cause seam pucker therefore impairing the appearance of the finished
garment. Another factor worth consideration is will the trimming launder at the same rate (will it dry) as the rest
of the garment.
Another decorative feature is to top stitch the seam, with either self colored thread or one of a contrast
color. When choosing this type of finish it is imperative that the machinists have the necessary skill level in
order to meet the quality requirements of the finished garment as attention is being drawn to the feature and
therefore needs to be of a good quality. An advantage of top stitching through a seam is that6 it can help to give
extra strength and stability to the seam, e.g. the crotch seam of a pair of trousers can be greatly improved y using
this very simple technique.
The French seam
Which is superimposed seam is self – neatened and overcomes the problem of showing the neatening
through the structure of the fabric. This seam is performed trapping the raw edges in between the two rows of
stitching. This seam type is also useful when utilizing out-workers as it is possible for the garment to be
virtually completed by the one machinist, providing the skill level of the operative meets the quality
requirements of the employing company. And subsequent customer
The French .seam is useful for garments which require regular laundering, e.g. children’s, wear as its
self neatening characteristic lends itself to stringent laundering techniques.
The French seam is also useful for the out-worker as seams can be neatened as the garments is being
assembled. However it is limited to straight and slightly curved seams, as steep curves and corners would be
extremely difficult to perform
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2.1.1.2 Class 2 lapped seam
The seams in this have uneven seam allowances; therefore the pattern cutting and garment assembly
has to be performed with extra care to ensure that the garment fits together correctly. In a nut-shell the seam
allowance on one side overlaps the other, hence the name lapped seam.
The Raised seam
The raised seam is the simplest of lapped seams, and is often used in the seams of skirts, trousers and
some jackets and coats where interest is built into the seams as a decorative feature, enhancing the style lines of
the garment. The seam needs two rows of stitching in its construction as well as some form of neatening,
normally of the lovelock type. This type of seam is normally performed on medium to heavy-weight fabrics as
the bulk of the fabric helps to crate the raised effect that this type of seam is characterized by. The raised seam is
also referred to as the welt or welted seam. To reduce confusion within a company the use of the British
classification system can be an advantage, however if everyone understands that all the names refer to the same
seam, type the terminology can be sufficient.
The loose raised seam
The Loose Raised seam is basically the same as the raised seam with the addition of another row of
sewing which allows the second row of sewing to be removed, which gives the loose fold which the seam is
characterized by. As with the raised seam the raw edges need to be neatened. This type of seam is used mainly
to provide interest in outer coats, the camel coat being the most obvious.
It can also be used where two loose raised seams face each other to form.
The channel slot seam
The channel- slot seam is normally used on medium to heavy-weight fabrics and is of a decorative
nature. The seam can be used to open out a pleat where the seam / pleat backing is of a contrast color, therefore
adding extra interest to the style line. When using seams such as the raised and channel-slot type, the degree of
accuracy demanded of the machinist is increased. Therefore higher skilled work- force is necessary to produce
these seams opposed to the plain variety.
The Flat Felled seam:
The Flat Felled seam is also referred to by several names, lap felled and twin needled seam beam being
the most common. The term twin needled can however be miss-leading and should be avoided, as a twin
needled machine can be used for many other applications. The flat felled seam is used on various weights of
fabric and types of garment all of which tend to be of hard wearing functional type, or subjected to stringent
laundering techniques. The
Types of garments can range from denim corduroy obviously needing greater seam allowances in order
that the garment will survive the hard wear, which it is likely to be subjected to. The lighter weight cottons used
in the manufacture of shirts or pyjamas do not have the bulk of the heavier fabrics and therefore need a reduced
width to gain the best appearance in the finished garment.
As the flat felled seam is self-neatening this helps to give the garment good laundering qualities, and
minimum care when it needs to be pressed as the turnings are conveniently tucked inside the seam. The seam
can be performed manually but will take the machinist twice as long as the twin needled machine with folders,
as the two rows of sewing will need to be worked separately, therefore increasing the machinist handling time,
and subsequent costs.
The roll seam
The roll seam or Mantua markers seam is very similar to the French seam in the super imposed class,
but it is performed by using one row of stitching therefore reducing the machinist handling time and thread
consumption. Its uses are the same as the French seam but it has to be said that by reducing the rows of stitching
the strength of the seam is obviously reduced.
2.1.1.3 Class 3 bound seam
This class differs from the previous two as it is finishing the raw edge of fabric with a second piece of
material, therefore neatening the edge of seams necklines, hemlines, cuffs etc. sometimes the bindings are of a
contrast material to give extra interest. The bindings can be applied by manual methods or by utilizing folders
that help to de-skill the job of machining. By using aids and attachments the process is often speeded up
therefore reducing costs as well as producing a standard finish to the garment, ensuring a good quality if used
properly. If the binding material is of a non-fraying nature then the simplest binding may be used as below.
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Where the binding is prone to fraying two extra folds of material need to be made to ensure the binding
performs to the requirements of the garment.
However the above binding technique is not suitable for all materials as too much bulk may be created
and cause an unsightly finish to the garment. To reduce the risk of unsightly bulk one edge of the binding could
be over locked to allow the binding to lie flat as the next diagram shows.
The type of bindings used would vary according to the type of garment being produced. The most
popular type of binding is of the bias type which will allow straight, curved and even angles to be successfully
finished by this technique. The use of ribbon or pairs bindings limits them to straight seams as the rigidity of the
ribbon type fabric makes it difficult to bend around corners. The quality of the finished garment will dictate the
quality of binding used. In men ’ s trousers knitted nylon bindings is both practical and hard wearing whereas
satin bindings used in unlined jackets are not just functional but used to crate interest.
2.1.1.4 Class 4 flat seams
In this class the seams are performed with the plies of fabric being laid side by side, and the seam then
links the two ply’ s together to form a join, hence the term flat seam as the fabric is butted together, not laid one
ply on Top of the other. This type of seam is most commonly used on knitted fabric as the risk of unraveling in
knitted materials is likely than woven fabrics. However where the edges have less been pre-neatened woven
fabrics can be used. The advantage of using a flat seam is worn next to the skin, such as underwear and
sportswear. The machinery used to perform this type of seam can be of the lockstitch zigzag variety or more
recently or more recently the use of cover seams of the 400 class are becoming more efficient and economical
and economical to produce.
The fact that there is no seam allowances also in advantage when it comes to laundering as the seam
will readily dry at the same in advantage when it comes to laundering. This method of seaming can be used to
attach bindings to curved edges such as collars, armholes and stitched into panels. However to use this type
seaming in this way, requires machinists of a higher skill than the normal seaming techniques. Obviously the
cost of such labor would increase the cost of the garment and therefore the price point of the garment must be
considered carefully before embarking on this technique.
2.1.1.5 Class 5 decorative stitching
This class includes stitching that is incorporated into design of the garment. The stitching can be of the
single needle type or more normally multi-needled. It is used to great effect when attaching lace, ribbons, braid
and embroidery, of the smocking type, on children’s wear and lingerie. Pin tucks also are included in this class,
and when produced by multi-needled machine the quality is assured as well as being performed in the minimum
of time, therefore the expense of special machinery can be re- coupled in a short space of time. Another
advantage of using such machinery is that the machinist job de-skilled, making it easier to train personnel to
perform what used to be highly skilled jobThe use of pin-tucks in a garment gives the garment design interest
which is added expense to the more functional garment and therefore must conform to the price point and
quality standard of the company profile. Normally pin-tucks are used in more up-market garments and so the
added expense is not necessarily a problem. The list of stitching in this class seems endless, with a new
designation for each width of ribbon, tape etc. and so where specific classifications are needed reference to the
international standards stitches and seams booklet part two is advisable.
2.1.1.6 Class 6 edge neatening:
In this class neatening of the raw edge of the fabric is covered, but not bindings as these have already
been covered in class 3. The simplest method in this class is that of the over lock. Refer to superimposed seams
for uses of over locking, i.e. plain seam.
2.2 Stitch
The term stitches refers both to the thread interloping or Interlocking used to make seams-the joints
between two pieces of fabric that are sewn together. Stitches help determine the functional aesthetic
performance of a garment. Their durability comfort and attractiveness are important performance considerations
determined by the end use and design of the garment, the type of fabric used, and the location and purpose of the
stitches. Cost considerations also affect the choice of stitches.
2.2.1 Stitch types
Class 100- This class consists of a stitch formation which involves a single thread being looped through
itself to form a chain. Sometimes there Can be more than one thread, but the formation of the chain is such, that
it does not interlock and therefore is likely to unravel if the loop is broken. For applied it is prone to come
undone.
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Class 200 – This class of stitches are worked by hand. The nature of hand worked stitches make them expensive
to produce and therefore unsuitable for bulk production. However for high class production-made to measure-
hand stitches may be used to enhance the finish and sometimes the performance of specific garments. Some
small companies may use hand stitches to perform particular jobs i.e., sewing buttons, this can reduce the high
costs of machinery and maintenance.
Class 300 –This class consists of a stitch formation which involves a minimum of two threads locking together
in the centre of the plies of fabric being sewn, hence the name lockstitch. This stitch type is more secure than the
100 class as its locking mechanism reduces the tendency for the stitch to unravel.
Class 400 –This class is worked with a minimum of two threads which inter-loop to make the stitch more secure
than the 100 class. Because of the looping mechanism this stitch class is often referred to as the double lock-
chain stitch, as the threads do lock around each other giving the effect of a locking mechanism. This stitch if
broken in the loping action will unravel therefore care should be taken not to break the stitch at its point of
looping .
Class 500-This class consists of stitches worked around the edge of the fabric, and can be worked around the
edge of the fabric, and can be worked with one or more threads. Because this stitch is worked around the edge of
the fabric it is often referred to as the over lock stitch. Tailors sometimes refer to this stitch as surging
12
Class 600 – This class of stitches consists of stitches that caver the fabric being stitched and are worked with a
minimum three threads. The characteristic of the stitch lends itself to its name, cover stitch.
Within each stitch classification there are different stitches which are given their specific designations
with the last number, i.e. 301 is the basic lockstitch machine. The 300 denotes the machine belongs to the
lockstitch class the 1 denotes that the stitch mechanism is of the most basic type available. Because there are
many variations, for the purposes of this course we are confirming our study to the main types of machinery
used for garment manufacture.
2.2.1.1 Class 100 Stitch Classifications
101 this stitch formation can be adapted for many different uses. Tailors use this stitch formation for
various machine types. It can be used as a tacking/basting machine. This type of machine would employ a large
stitch as it is only a temporary stitch to allow the tailor to fit the garment or hold parts together until the next
operation is performed. The use of a soft cotton enables the thread to be removed easily without causing
damage, as the threads of the fabric will close up, when the fabric is pressed.
The stitch formation can be adapted so that the tailor can pad the collar and lapels of ladies and men’s
jackets and coats.
Because of the nature of the chain mechanism stitching can only be sewn by continuous stitching.
Therefore is no facility to start and finish in the middle of a seam as the chaining mechanism will be lost and
therefore unravel.
103: This stitch type is used specifically to hold hams in position. The advantage of this stitch is that it not
visible on the right side of the garment therefore produces a superior appearance than some of the other stitch
types. However, because of its chain formation it is possible that if the loop mechanism is broken the stitch will
unravel. It is not always reliable if used in garments which need constant laundering i.e. children’s or work
clothes, as in overalls.
This stitch type is used when the hem needs to be as unobtrusive as possible. When used on woolen
skirts, men’s trousers, jackets and coats a smooth appearance is gained on the right side of the garment. On a
medium weight fabric an “all stitch” may be used which means every stitch is picking up fabric or a loosely
woven fabric is being sewn, the picking up of the garment ply may be “skipped” this avoids leaving an
impression on the right side of the garment. Depending on the weight and construction of the fabric being sewn
up to 5 stitches mat be skipped, the disadvantage of missing so many stitches is that the hem could easily be
caught and pulled down.
Sometimes this type of machine is referred to as a “blind hammer” or a “skip stitch” both are self
explanatory as the stitch should be “blind” to the right side and is capable of performing “skip” stitches.
Other machines in this stitch classification can be used to work buttonholes, automatically. By this I
mean that garment is positioned in the machine, the operative sets the machine into action, the sides, and ends
are worked and the hole is cut in the one operation. This produces a buttonhole quickly and cheaply and the
training of the operative is also cost effective.
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Button-sew machines can also be of the single chain stitch type. The disadvantage again, is that the
stitch type. The disadvantage again, is that the stitch is likely to unravel if the thread is broken in the looping
mechanism. This factor can lead to customer dissatisfaction as buttons tends not to stay secure for the lifetime of
the garment production.
2.2.1.2 Class 200 Stitch Classifications
As this class refers to stitches worked by hand, its use is limited to the more expensive end of the
garment production. However hand stitching is valid where the extra cost is not a problem and where the finish
look takes priority.
2.2.1.3 Class 300 Stitch Classifications
301: This stitch is the most basic of all the lock stitch formations. It is formed with a single needle thread and a
single spool/bobbin thread, which locks in the centre of the layers of fabric being stitched together.
This stitch type is still the most extensively used within the clothing industry. For garments using
woven materials, provided the right type of thread is used, then lockstitch provides enough strength in the
seams, for the garment to its last expected lifetime. Care must be taken to ensure that a correctly balanced stitch
is formed, as a loose or tight tension will cause friction within the seam during wear, resulting in seam failure.
Also incorrect tensions can spoil the finished look of the garment.
A loose tension will allow the seam to grin, and may even alter the fit of the garment. A tight tension
will tend to pucker the seam, which will only be released by unpicking and re-stitching with a balanced stitch.
Seams in stretch would tend to be unreliable, if stitched with a lockstitch machine as the length of
thread within the seam is only marginally more than the length of seam. Therefore any stretch greater than the
length of thread within the seam is likely to break down, particularly if the garment is to be laundered regularly,
as the laundering technique can weaken the threads within the seam.
This stitch provides a seam which will press open, as the stitch structure is the same on both sides of
the stitch. Other stitches tend to be bulky on one side therefore limiting the flattening of the seam and restricting
the smooth appearance on the right side of the garment.
The lockstitch is also ideal for use when top – stitching, as the accuracy in pivoting corners on pockets
and collars is second to none, providing the skill of the machinist is up to standard. The training of machinists
for the lockstitch machine can be a lengthy business to allow the trainee to reach an acceptable standard of
quality, and speed for the production unit. The use of programmable units such as the I.SU.[Integrated Sewing
Units] can help to reduce training time and also provide a standard finish, thus improving quality.
The use of back – tacks, [where the seam is stitched for 3 – 4 stitches reversed to repeat the stitch and
then stitched again as the seam is continued] are necessary to strengthen the beginning and end of a seam to
ensure that the seam will stay secure, for lifetime of the garment. Sometimes condensed stitches are used to
reduce the effect of bulkiness, but care must be taken not to burst the fabric threads as this will weaken the seam
not strengthen it.
2.2.1.4 Class 400 stitch classifications
401: this is the most basic of the double lock chain stitches. This stitch is formed with a minimum of two
threads. The needle thread is passed through the fabric and then interlaced and interloped with the lopper
threads.
Because of the extra thread used in this stitch formation extra extensibility is built into the seam. This
extensibility can be increased by using threads that will stretch and recover with the movement of the seam as it
is worn As the chaining action place on the underside of the stitch tends to be rather bulky, this restricts the
smooth pressing of the seam. This stitch characteristic makes it unsuitable for garments that require a tailored
appearance, although there are exceptions to this rule
However where the seam is to be neatened with the seam allowances are over locked together, this
stitch will provide strength and extensibility, e.g. sweat- shirts, track straight from the package rather than filling
spools/ bobbins is that the operative can spend more time actually sewing.
This stitch will not back- tack, the chaining action would be lost and therefore could unravel due to the
chain not being locked into position. Where the seam is to be trapped by another row of stitching the seam will
normally be secure, but the use of a bar- tack particularly on jeans and work wear would ensure that the stitching
would last the garments life expectancy
This stitch however is prone to grin therefore it is essential to determine what is acceptable to the
buyer/customer, before large scale production is commenced.
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2.2.1.5 Class 500 Stitch Classifications
501: This is a single thread stitch, which is formed around the edge of the fabric .It is used where the very edge
of the fabric is stitched; therefore, it is only suitable for materials ,which do not fray.
Leather and suede gloves/mittens are often sewn with this machine as it uses a fine seam allowance,
therefore providing a close fit without impairing the comfort of the wearer.
It is also useful when seaming fur skins of fur fabric with a knitted backing, a the fur pile can be pushed
out of the way of the needle thus avoiding trapping the pile into the seam.
512: This stitch seam 7 neatens in one operation, therefore saving on machinery, maintenance and labor.
This stitch is often referred to as the simulated safety stitch, as it seams and neatens in the one operation .Quick
and easy to perform and is economical in maintenance.
Suitable for light weight to heavy weight production, shirts, blouse, lingerie, children’s, wear, swim
wear, leotards, track-suits, sweat-shirts, and denim and cord jeans.
This stitch obviously produces a closed seam ,as the seam allowances are stitched, together ,this given
a hard wearing finish and is particularly suitable were regular laundering techniques are necessary .This finish is
not always acceptable ; men’s trouser is one such case where a reasonable quality is necessary ,therefore an
open seam is more satisfactory .However for boy’s /youth’s trousers the finish is acceptable because the
appearance is out –weighed in preference to a practical and hard wearing finish .The usage of the same as the
512,configuration is however slightly different.
2.2.1.6 Class 600 Stitch Classifications
This stitch type is performed with a minimum of three threads .All stitches in this classification have
the characteristic of covering the seam which it is sewing .Three stitches were developed primarily to strengthen
seams, and in some cases improve the comfort of close fitting garments .The classic example of both these
characteristics is in the production of wet suit, where the closeness of fit and the strength of seam are essential
properties within the garment.
When used in T-shirt and sportswear manufacture the seam is often stitched with a 504 over lock, and
then cover –stitched to provide a flat seam which will not rib/irritate the wearer .Thos is particularly important
for the active sportswear market.
2.3 Seam Quality
The characteristics of a properly constructed seam, depends on the fabric and must take into account
the following factors:
Strength
Extensibility [ including elasticity]
security
Durability
Appearance
2.3.1 Strength
A seam must be strong, the criteria being maximum strength for minimum thickness and economy of
sewing thread. Seam strength has to be measured in two directions:
Lateral – across the seam
Longitudinal – along the length of the seam
2.3.2 Lateral
This refers to the free edges of material, the seam allowances or turnings are important .If the width of
seam allowance is too narrow the seam may pull apart, if the fabric is sewn has a tendency to fray.
The strength may be increased by:
a) Using larger turnings
b) Using a stronger thread
c) By increasing the number of stitches per cm.
[Care should be taken to bulkily stitched seam]
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2.3.3 Longitudinal
The strength along the length of the seam is closely related to the extensibility of the seam, as
insufficient strength will result in “cracking” during wear. This is particularly important when sewing jersey
fabrics with a high degree of stretch
2.3.4 Extensibility
This property is required in all seams, but varies according to the fabric being sewn. If a garment is
being made of a material with a rigid characteristic, the seams will require little stretch, therefore a lockstitch
301, would be suitable in most cases.
Sweaters, cardigans or jumpers, using extensible fabrics will need extensible seams, as the seams need
to stretch as much as the fabrics being sewn therefore the over lock class is more generally used. However
where stability is required to help maintain the garment shape, the 401 chain stitch is advisable. When producing
ladies structured garments and dress wear, the fabric tends to be pliable which can result in the seaming
breaking down during wear. Because the seam is required to give with the movement of the body, extensibility
must be built into the seam to ensure that the seam will perform satisfactorily during wear. A number of factors
need to be considered in the case:
Thread extensibility
Stitch
Seam type
End use of the garment, when studying these factors a balance is sometimes necessary. The optimum
stitch may be the 3 or 4 thread over lock but this would not allow the seam to be pressed flat and therefore
impair the look of the garment. Therefore the seams used may vary within a garment depending on where the
stresses originate and the look of the garment.
2.3.5 Durability
A seam must be durable and last the life expectancy of the garment, this must include the laundering
technique in order to confirm to the trade description act. The following factors must be considered in order to
ensure the seam will perform satisfactorily during wear;
Thread type
Stitch type
Seam type
Fabric type
Fiber content
Laundering technique, a wrong choice of any of these factors can result in friction wearing away the
threads within the fabric or the stitching technique.
2.3.6 Security
Security is closely connected to durability, with the addition of ensuring that the stitching within the
seam is fixed securely at the beginning and end of each row of sewing. A lockstitch seam can be easily back-
Tacked Whereas the ends of a chain or over lock seam needs to be trapped into another seam or bar-tacked to
ensure that the seam will not unravel.
2.3.7 Appearance
Often the appearance of the seam is overlooked, but sometimes the optimum strength of a seam needs
to be re-assessed as the look of the garment may be impaired by the use of a bulky unsightly looking seam.
Another factor to consider when assessing the appearance of the seam is that the machinery has been set up
correctly, a puckered seam will instantly spoil the hanger appeal of what could have been an attractive garment.
Blunt needles not only weaken the strength of a seam but also can distort the weave or knitted structure of the
fabric, which again will impair the finished look of the garment.
2.4 SEAM FAILURE
Five factors that determine that determine the strength of a seam include:
Fabric type and weight
Thread fiber type, construction, and size
Stitch and seam construction.
Stitches per inch
Stitch Balance.
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Any one of these factors can adversely affect the performance of a sewn product depending on the end
–use of the sewn product. Following are a few general comments related to the factors listed above.
2.4.1 Fabric type and weight
Fabric type and weight can affect seam performance depending on the following:
Fabric content (100%cotton, cotton/polyester blend, nylon).
Fabric Construction:
Woven or knit.
Type of weave used(plain, twill, jersey, tricot)
Fill count.
Yarn type and size.
Pattern placement and seam direction.
Propensity of the yarns in the seam to shift or pull out of the seam.
The fabric to determine its strength we cannot specify seam strength requirements that are stronger than
the fabric itself.
2.4.2 Thread fiber type, construction, and size
These all have a definite effect on seam strength including the following factors:
2.4.3 Fiber type
Some fibers are stronger than others and have greater loop strength contributing to greater seam
strength. For example, a 100% spun polyester thread will give greater seam strength than a 100% cotton thread
of the same size.
Synthetic fibers like polyester and nylon are much more resistant to abrasion and chemical degradation
(Such as bleach) than cellulosic fibers. Cellulosic fibers on the other hand have superior heat resistance.
2.4.4 Thread Construction (Spun, Core, Textured, Multifilament, etc)
Core threads, made with continuous filament polyester core, generally will provide higher seam
strength than spun and textured threads.
Continuous filament polyester or nylon thread constructions will provide greater resistance to abrasion
and seam degradation.
Some thread constructions are less subject to shearing or cutting each other when interloped together in
the seam. Air entangled, textured, and monochord thread constructions exhibit the best loop strength
characteristics.
2.4.5 Thread finish (Soft, mercerized, glace, and bonded, etc)
Glace or bond finished threads generally has superior abrasion resistance to soft finished threads.
Mercerized threads are stronger than soft cotton threads of the same fiber type and size.
2.4.6 Thread Size (tex, metric, yarn size)
Given a specific fiber type and thread construction, the larger the thread size, the greater the seam
strength. As previously mentioned, different fiber types and thread constructions have different loop-strength
Characteristics. In many cases, a smaller thread size will imbed itself in the seam making it less prone to surface
abrasion.
2.4.7 Stitch and seam construction
Stitch types:
Generally, the more thread consumed in a stitch, the greater the seam strength. This holds true when
comparing 301 lockstitch seams to 401 chain stitch seams.
Threads used in 301 lockstitch seams are more susceptible to shearing each other than 401 chain
stitches and 504 over edge seams because of the way the threads are interlocked together rather than interloped
together.
Seam types:
Many seam constructions are more resistant to both stress and abrasion than other constructions. For
example, ISO 49162.04 felled seam is the strongest of all seams because the stress is shared by the fabric and
the thread.
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Stitches per Inch
Generally, the greater the number of stitches per inch in a seam, the greater the seam strength. This
refers beck to the point that the more thread you put in the seam, the stronger the seam. However, on some
fabrics,, too many stitches can cause damage to the fabric by cutting the yarns enough to weaken it.
Excessive stitches per inch can also contribute to seam puckering and reduce the speed through the
machine resulting in loss of production.
Stitch Balance
As a rule, the more thread that can be put into seam, the greater the seam strength. This can be
accomplished by adjusting the sewing machine thread tensions, thread control guides and eyelets etc.
Care should be taken not to put too much needle thread in the seam to cause the seam to “grin” or open
up when stress is applied to it.
Excessive sewing machine thread tension will cause reduced seam strength as well as create other
sewing problems.
Seam Efficiency:
Measurement of the seam quality was done by studying the seam efficiency, seam puckering.
Seam efficiency was calculated using the following formula :
Seam Strength Tensile (%)
Seam efficiency (%) = X 100
Fabric Tensile Strength
III. Materials And Methods
3.1 Material Purchase
The material Selected for the experiment is 100% cotton, polyester and silk the fabric parameters GSM
wrap count and weft count EPI and PPI and weave details are given in the table in 3.1
Table 3.1 Fabric Selection for the Experiment
3.2 The Seam Sample Size
The sample size is taken on the basis of tensile strength tester gauge length 33 cms and 10 cms width.
The lapped seam is applied for making all the samples the selection of the machine, machine speed, SPI, given
in the table 3.2
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Table 3.2 Sewing Condition for Experiments
3.3 Sewing Thread Selection For Study
The Sewing thread selected is 100% spun polyester thread for making all the samples the details are
given below table 3.3 sewing thread.
Table 3.3 Sewing Thread Selection For Study
IV. Results And Discussions
4.1 Seam Analysis Using Stitch Type 301
Seam strength and elongations obtained for various types of fabrics cotton,polyester,silk,using the
stitch type 301 are given table.
It is found from the table 4.1 that the polyester fabric is found to have higher seam strength and
extension characteristics as compared to other two materials name the cotton and silk.However CV% seam
strength value is found to be on the higher side in polyester
4.2 Seam Analysis Using Stitch Type 401
Seam strength and elongations obtained for various types of fabrics cotton,polyester,silk,using the
stitch type 401 are given table.
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It is found from the table 4.2 that the polyester fabric is found to have higher seam strength and
extension characteristics as compared to other two materials name the cotton and silk.However CV% seam
strength value is found to be on the lower side in polyester.
4.3 Seam Analysis Using Stitch Type 601
Seam strength and elongation obtained for various types of fabrics cotton,polyester ,silk,using the stitch
type 601 are given table.
Table 4.3 Seam Analysis Using stitch Type 601
It is found from the table 4.3 that the polyester fabric is found to have higher seam strength and
extension characteristics as compared to other two materials name the cotton and silk.However cv% seam
strength value is found to be on the higher side in polyester.
4.4 Comparitive Analysis
On the whole it was found that on performance wise polyester stood first next cotton and finally silk.
As for as variation in seam strength is concerned silk fabric is found performance than the other materials.
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V. Conclusion
5.1 Conclusion
From the evaluation conducted the seam selected is found best suited polyester fabric for all types of
stitches applied.
5.2 Future Scope
. The studies shall be extended to all types of blended fabric
. This studies can be done with all types of seams and stitches
Acknowledgement
I am extremely grateful to the Chairman ,Prof .A.KANAGARAJ,M.A., M. Phil., Secretary, Mrs.
K.VIJAYAKUMARI,M.A.,B.ED., and Vice-Chairman Mr. K.NAVARAJ,M. Tech., of Jaya Educational
Trust for having given us an opportunity to embark on this project
The most respected Principal of Jaya Engineering College, Dr.K.VIJAYARAGHAVAN , Ph.D., who
has been kindling the sprit through out of the project, is thanked from the depth of the heart.
I am deeply obliged to Mr.L.NAGARAJAN .,M.Tech,Associate Professor & HOD, Department of
Textile Technology and project guide for his helpful guidance and support during the course of this project
I wish to express my warm gratitude and sincere thanks to Project Guide(Mr.V.Shunmugam) & All
Faculty Members and Lab Technicians of the Textile Department, for their valuable suggestions and help
throughout the project.
References
[1]. ASTMD 6193-Standard Practice for stitches and seams.
[2]. Basic Knowledge of sewing, Sewing, Research Institute, March 20, 1999, JUKI Corporation.
[3]. How a stitching Mechanism in a sewing Machine works, Jonah Elgart.
[4]. ISO 4915: 1991 Textile – stitch types-classification and Terminology.
[5]. ISO Stitches, American and Efird, Inc.(WWW.Amefird.com)
[6]. Ready – to – wear apparel analysis, patty brown and javett Rice, Prentice Hall Publications.
[7]. U.S.Federal standard No.751a.
[8]. Stitch a seam classification and structure, stitches and seams, laing R.M. and Webster.J.
[9]. The Technology of clothing manufacture, Harold carr and Barbara Latham, Blackwell Publishing.