Fabric faults

Fabric Faults/Defects
Definition of defect
i. An imperfection that impairs worth or utility.
ii. Want or absence of something necessary for completeness or perfection.
iii. A fault that spoils the material.
Fabric defects: A fabric defect is any abnormality in the fabric that hinders its acceptability
by the consumer. Fabric is produced with interlacement of warp and weft yarn or loop
formation of yarn. During manufacturing of fabric various types of defects occur in fabric.
Some fabric faults are visible and some faults are invisible.
Faults or defects in fabric may be result from the following reasons. They are:
 Defects resulting from faulty yarn
 Faulty weaving/knitting process
 Incorrect dyeing and finishing processes
Some common fabric defects:
Some common defects of woven, knitted and terry/pile fabrics are listed here.
Woven fabric defects:
 Barre
 Coarse ends or
picks
 Temple mark
 Thick and thin
place
 Bad selvedge
 Broken ends or
warp
 Broken picks or
weft
 Loose warp
 Loose weft or
snarl
 Double end
 Tight end
 Float of warp
 Wrong end color
 Crack
 Float
 Fly waste
 Knots
 Reed mark
 Slack end
 Slough off
 Slubs
 Miss pick
 Double pick
 Weft bar
 Ball
 Hole
 Oil spot
 Soiled/Oily
filling
 Tails out
Knitted Fabric defects:
 Barreness
 Birds eye
 Broken pattern
 Cloth run out
 Skip stitch
 Dropped stitches
 End out
 Missing yarn
 Mixed yarn
 Needle line/mark
 Press off stitches
 Miss draw

Terry Fabric defects:
 Broken pattern due to defective piles
 Pile less spot
 Uneven or loose piles
Some processing defects that are found in fabric:
Bow/skew, color out, doctor streak, dye stain, sanforize pucker, seam impression,
scrimp.
Woven fabric faults, causes and their remedies:
SLUB
Bad or defective selvedge:
Bad selvedge in woven fabrics due to the faulty
weaving. Here, warp ends being set too far apart for the
thickness of the yarn or in finished fabric.
Coloured flecks: Presence of coloured foreign matter in
the yarn.
Causes: Cotton fibres getting contaminated during the
ginning stage with leaves, immature fibre, yellow fibre,
etc.
Mending: Coloured portion is removed from the yarn
with a plucker. The resultant bare patch can be corrected
by combing with metallic comb.
Knots: Knot is a fastening made by tying together the
ends of yarn.
Causes: Thread breaks during process of winding,
warping, sizing or weaving.
Mending: Non Mendable.

Slub: Slub is a bunch of yarn having less twist or no
twist and has a wider diameter compared to normal spun
yarn.
Causes:
 Improper carding/combing.
 Broken tooth in the chain of gear system.
Mending: The slub should be cut with the clipper from
both the ends. The resultant bare patch can be corrected
by combing with a metallic comb or by insertion of a
separate thread with the help of fine needle.
Broken pattern: A broken pattern is the non continuity
of a weave/ design/ pattern.
Causes:
 Wrong drawing in of threads.
 Incorrect shedding.
Mending: Non Mendable.
Broken ends woven in a bunch: This defect is caused by
a bunch of broken ends woven into the fabric.
Cause: Failure of the weaver in attending the warp breaks
properly.
Mending: The broken ends woven in a bunch can be
removed by using a plucker and the resulting loose ends
should be cut with clipper. As a result, a bare patch occurs
and combing in both directions with a metallic comb can
fill this up.
Double end: When two or more ends gets woven as one.
This defect is characterized by a thick bar running parallel
to the warp.
Causes: Wrong drawing, taking more ends in heald eye.
Mending: This fault can be corrected by pulling out the
extra end with the help of needle. A bare patch is formed
and can be filled by combing in both directions with the
help of metallic comb.

Float: Float is the improper interlacement of warp and
weft threads over a certain area.
Causes:
 Improper sizing (ends sticking).
 Broken end entangling with the other ends.
Mending: Only minor floats can be rectified. The
floating threads are cut with a clipper. Combing in both
direction rectifies the resultant patch.
Gout: Gout is a foreign matter accidently woven into the
fabric.
Causes:
 Improper loom cleaning.
 Unclean environment.
Mending: The extra foreign matter can be pulled out with
a plucker. Combing in both direction rectifies the resultant
patch.
Hole/Cut/Tear:
Causes:
 Sharp edges on cloth roll.
 Hard substance between layers of fabric in cloth
roll.
 Course temples used for fine fabric.
 During removal of hard particles like, Iron particles
woven in the cloth.
Mending: Non mendable.
Missing ends: The fabric is characterised by a gap, parallel
to the warp. The number of ends missing may be one or
more.
Causes:
 Loom not equipped with warp stop motion.
 Dirty drop wires or accumulation of lint may prevent
their dropping.
 In electric warp stop motion, the electric bars are
dirty or corroded.
Mending: When there are only two adjacent ends missing,
the fault can be rectified by combing in both directions
using a metallic comb. This may fill the bare patch formed
due to missing ends.

Missing Picks: A narrow streak running parallel with weft
threads caused due to absence of weft.
Causes:
 Faulty let-off and take-up motion.
 Faulty weft-stop motion.
 Fell of the cloth not adjusted after loom stoppage for
mending.
Mending: When there are only two adjacent picks missing,
the fault can be rectified by combing in both directions
using a metallic comb. This may fill the bare patch formed
due to missing ends.
Stitches: A Single thread float.
Causes:
 Two adjacent ends sticking together during shedding
for a brief period of time.
 In case of synthetic yarns, ends sticking together due
to static charge during weaving.
Mending: Stitches are cut with a clipper from both the ends.
Combing in both the directions with the help of a metallic
comb may rectify the resultant bare patch formed.
Untrimmed loose threads: Any hanging threads on the face
of the fabrics are termed as loose threads.
Cause: Tail ends not trimmed after piecing up.
Mending: These defects can be easily rectified with the help
of clipper.
Weft bar: An unwanted bar, running across the full width
of a piece which differs in appearance from the adjacent
normal fabric.
Causes:
 Difference in count, twist, colour, lustre.
 Faulty let-off and take-up motion.

Lashing in: An extra piece of yarn woven into the fabric in
the area of the selvedge.
Causes:
 Defective setting of the shuttle box.
 Early or late picking.
 In case of auto loom, weft cutters worn out or not set
properly
Mending: This defect can be corrected by pulling out the
extra pick from the selvedge end, which can be clipped with
the help of clipper. A bare patch is formed and can be filled
by combing in both directions with the help of metallic comb.
Oil or Other Stain: These are spot defects of oil, rust, grease
or other stains found in the fabric.
Causes:
 Improper oiling/greasing of looms.
 Oil stained Take up roller.
Mending:
 Keep the stained portion of the fabric over an absorbent
pad. Apply the stain remover, wetting the stain and
surrounding portion thoroughly.
 Rub gently to quicken the penetration of the stain
remover.
 Rubbing should be done towards the centre of stain to
avoid spreading.
Oily ends: These are oily warp ends.
Causes:
 Improper handling and storage of material in spinning department.
 Oil-contaminated guides and oily hands during process of
warping.
 Improper handling of warp beams.
Mending:
 Keep the stained portion of the fabric over an absorbent pad. Apply
the stain remover, wetting the stain and surrounding portion
thoroughly.
 Rub gently to quicken the penetration of the stain remover.
 Rubbing should be done towards the centre of stain to avoid
spreading.

Slough off: A slough-off is a bunch of weft woven into the
fabric.
Causes:
 Improper winding of the yarn onto the weft pirn.
 Improper shape and size of the pirn.
 Harsh picking.
Mending: The bulk yarn can be pulled out by means of
plucker. Combing in both direction with help of mettalic comb
can fill up the resultant bare patch.
Reed marks: A warp way crack caused by a damaged or
defective reed.
Causes: Defective or damaged reed.
Local distortion: A Distortion occurs when there is
displacement of warp and/or weft threads from their
normal position.
Causes:
 The emery roll is worn out.
 In filament fabric having low reed picks.
Mending: This defect can be corrected by combing in
both directions using a metallic comb.

Standard Commercial Fabric
Based on Plain weave:
Georgette: Georgette is a sheer, light-weight, dull-finished crepe fabric named
after the 20th
early century of French dressmaker “Georgette de la Plante”. It is
originally made from silk but now often is made from manufactured filament yarns.
Georgette is made with highly twisted yarns. Its characteristic crinkly surface is
created by alternating S and Z-twist yarns in both warp and weft direction.
Georgette is made in solid colors and prints and is used for blouses, dresses, evening
gowns, saris, and trimmings. It is springier and less lustrous than the closely
related chiffon.
Chiffon: It is made from fine, highly twisted filament yarns. Because of the tightly
twisted crepe yarns, chiffon has excellent drape, very light weight and relatively
durable although delicate in appearance. It can be printed or in solid color. It is
originally made from silk but now often is made from manufactured filament yarns.
Sheer evening dresses, blouses, lingerie and other dressy apparel are made from this
fabric. Chiffon is most commonly used to weave sarees, dresses and scarves.
Voile: Voile is a soft, sheer fabric, usually made of 100% cotton or cotton blended
with linen or polyester. The fabric is made with high twist or voile twist spun yarns
that may be combed or worsted. It is a soft fabric with somewhat lower fabric count
and has a distinctive two ply warp and good drapability. It can be printed or in solid
color. Voile was originally a cotton or wool fabric but now available with many fiber
contents. Because of its light weight, the fabric is mostly used in soft furnishing. In
tropical climates, voile is used for window treatments and mosquito nets. Generally,
50 counts of yarns, in 60-64 per inch at warp and weft are used.
Chambray: It is a plain weave fabric usually of cotton, rayon or blended with
polyester. Usually Chambray has white yarns in the weft direction and colored yarns
in the warp direction. This type of fabric is both fine and dense, and it is similar to
denim in many ways. However, a different weaving pattern is used to make
chambray, and as a result, this type of fabric is significantly lighter and more
breathable than denim.
Poplin: Poplin is a bottom weight rib weave (heavy weight ribbed fabrics) is
usually made from cotton or cotton blends, polyester/cotton blends are mostly used.
It is a medium to heavy weight, unbalanced, plain weave, spun yarn fabric. The weft
yarns are coarser than the warp yarns. A specification of poplin fabric is shown
below:

Fabric construction:
14′s/2 ×60′s
60×14
Oxford: It is usually a (2×1) or (3×2) basket weave. It is most common as a (2×1)
half basket weave. It may have a yarn dyed warp and white weft and be called oxford
chambray. Oxford looks like a balanced fabric because the warp yarns are finer and
have higher twist than the weft. Because of soft yarns and loose weave, yarn slippage
may occur. Oxford fabrics are medium weight, soft, porous and lustrous. It is often
made of cotton or cotton blends, that is used for shirts. Frequently it is made with
narrow colored stripes in the warp or a colored warp.
30′s ×20′s
72×68
or, Fabric construction:
40′s/2 ×40′s/2
60×68
Canvas: It is a heavy, firm, strong fabric made of cotton or acrylic and used for
awnings, slip covers, shoe fabrics, tarpaulins and boat covers. It is produced in many
grades and qualities. It may have a soft or firm hand. It is made in plain or basket
weave. Canvas is smoother, compact and usually have an uneven weave pattern. It
is tightly woven and very stiff plain weave fabrics made of even yarn for industrial
uses. Because of the tight weave, these fabrics are often used for outdoor purposes.
It is made with single or ply yarns. Different types of canvas relate to the number of
ply and which yarns (warp/weft) are plied.
10′s ×10′s
72×42
or Fabric construction:
20′s × 16′s
100×50
Gauge: It is a sheer, light weight, low count, plain weave balanced fabric made of
spun yarns. It is often cotton, rayon or a blend of these fibres. Gauge with a higher
count than these cheese cloth, is used in theatrical costumes and medical dressings.
Buckram: It is heavily sized plain weave fabric to serve as stiffening fabrics.
Buckram is a heavy, very stiff spun yarn fabric converted from gray goods with
adhesives. It is used as interlining to stiffen the required parts of a fabrics.
Based on Twill weave:
Denim: Very strong cotton fabric generally, it is 2/1 or 3/1 warp faced twill fabric.
The warp yarns are mainly indigo or blue or may yellow or black colors and the weft
yarn is in white color. The face side of the fabric is blue, yellow or black to look at,
and the back side shows bluish or grey. Denim fabric is used in making garments of

laborers, overall, work wear, and drapery. The specification of a denim fabric is
shown below:
7′s to 16′s ×8′s to 23′s
60×36 to 72×44
Drill: It is very strong cotton warp faced twill fabric. It is a densely woven 2/1 or
3/1 fabric produced from carded yarn. The drill fabric is to some extent like denim
fabric. It is used in various works in the form of grey, bleached, dyed, or printed,
such as: work cloth, pocketing, lining of shoe, book binding, corset, as coated fabric
backing, as industrial fabric etc. The specification of a drill fabric is given below:
14 tex×16 tex
50×32 (per cm)
Jeans: It is mainly warp faced twill fabric, made with carded cotton yarn, lighter
than drill fabric and also the twill lines are very fine. The twill lines are stretched
from the right side of the lower end to the left side of the upper end. In some cases,
shadow stripes are also made using the yarn of “S” twist and “Z” twist. These fabrics
are generally solid and printed and sometimes they are mercerized. Jean fabrics are
used in sportswear, work wear, uniforms of doctors and nurses, kid’s play suits, and
industrial work. The specification of a jeans fabric is as follows:
30 tex×30 tex
36×26 (per cm)
Gabardine: It is a warp faced fabric, made mostly in 2/2 twill, as a result the twill
lines are clearly visible and 2/1 twill is made in the lower quality gabardine fabrics.
The number of warp yarn used per inch is almost double the number of weft yarn.
Carded or combed, single or plied yarns are used which is made from the fibre or
the mixture of worsted, cotton, silk, rayon etc. Gabardine fabric is used in making
suits for men’s, ladies and the kids; also in making of uniforms, sportswear,
raincoats, etc. The specification of gabardine fabric is given below:
Fine cotton gabardine:
15/2 tex×15/2 tex
64×42 (per cm)
Lower quality gabardine:
30/2 tex×30 tex
43×30 (per cm)
Seersucker fabric: Cotton fabric with crinkled length-way stripes caused by
differential shrinkage. True seersucker is generated by differential warp tensions but
finishing treatments can produce a similar effects. Used for blouses, shirts, dresses.

Some fabric images are given below:
Georgette Chiffon Voile
Chambray Poplin Oxford
Canvas Gauge Buckram

Denim Drill Jeans
Gabardine Seer-sucker

Clothing Comfort
The term “Comfort” is being mentioned as the absence of unpleasantness or a natural
state compared to more active state of pleasure. The most important factor affecting
comfort in clothing is the movement of heat and water vapor through a garment i.e.,
balanced process of heat exchange between the human body, the clothing system
and the environment.
Clothing comfort depends on
 Thermal factors (heat transfer)
 Sensorial factors (touching, hand-feel etc.)
 Movement of body parts
 Social status and conditions
 Psychological factors (aesthetic sense)
 Functional factors (bullet-proof jacket, firefighter dress etc.)
Factors determining clothing comfort
 External (Ambient temperature, Wind speed, Moisture in environment, Globe
temperature, Cultural, Overall environment)
 Internal (Metabolic rate, Level of activities, Health position, Psychological
situation)
Physical and psychological (aesthetic) aspects of comfort:
Comfort is always depend on physiological effects of such climatic variables of
temperature, relative humidity and air movement of a body situated in a particular
condition and also clothing factors, particularly fabric geometry, pore volume and
enclosed air content etc.
Comfortability is both subjective and physical. The movement of heat, moisture and
air through a fabric are the major factors governing comfort but some of the
subjective factors such as size, fit and aesthetic behavior (softness, handle and drape)
obviously are very important. In addition, other factors such as the generation of
static electricity and the control of noise are closely connected with apparel use.
In examining the comfort behavior of textiles, it is necessary to include some
consideration of factors that are not measured by physical tests and may be
subjective in that two people may disagree about the level of comfort of the same
fabric. These aesthetic factors include properties such as softness, handle, drape and

similar properties and may also include properties such as color, style, fashion
compatibility and other similar characteristics.
There can be innumerable psychological aspects that are responsible for clothing
discomfort. However, according to Prof. Lubos Hes's studies, the following
components have a lasting effect:
 Economical aspects - resources, technology of objects manufactured, skills,
political system
 Historical aspects - using products made of natural materials, tradition,
lifestyle, fashion
 Cultural aspects - religion, habit, customs
 Social aspects - age, qualification, social status or rank in the class
 Individual and group aspects - effects of fashion, trends, styles, colors,
personal preferences etc.
Since psychological factors can include many more attributes, it becomes extremely
difficult to quantify and objectify as to what kind of clothing will be comfortable or
not to people.
Factors for clothing selection:
Social factor:
In social factor following things are considered:
 The place where person live (Europe/Asia or Urban/Rural area).
 Cultural background of person.
 Gender
 Occupation
 Occasion
 Social status
Economic Factors: In economics factors the important components are economic
condition of society, economic status of individual, availability of technology
and raw material. If there is change in economic condition of society than it reflects
on clothing. We know that the pattern of poor and rich peoples are different. People
select clothing depends on affordability and depending on economic status.
Environmental Factors: Environmental factors includes environmental conditions
like too cold, too hot, raining, chilling wind etc. Cloths are selected to take protection

from extreme environment, unusual places (space or under water). The selection of
clothing changes as the environment condition is change. In this factor one person
will not use same clothing in different climatic condition. Depending on climatic
temperature the garments are broadly divided into two categories: winter wear
clothing and summer wear clothing.
Physiological factor: This factor includes age, body structure, physiological
response of body, activity level etc. The clothing patterns are changes with age of
the person due to physiological and psychological changes with time.
Otherwise in fabric selection client satisfaction, color, style, durability, suitability,
after care condition are also considered.
*****END*****

Fabric faults

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