Dezyne E'cole College. www.dezyneecole.com

1. SEAMS
Dezyne E’cole College
Kriti Tolani
B.Sc. Fashion design &
Diploma in Fashion Design
NSQF level 6 of NSDC
Garment
Technology

2. Garment Technology
Project Report
on
Seams and Stitches Classes
Submitted to
Dezyne E’cole college towards
The partial fullfillment of the
Two year diploma in Fashion Design
By
Kriti Tolani
NSQF Level 6, NSDC
Dezyne E’cole college
106/10, civil lines, Ajmer
Tel:0145-2624679
www.dezyneecole.com
2016-2017

3. Garment Technology
I take this opportunity to express my profound gratitude and deep regards to Dezyne E’cole College for giving
me this project.
I also take this opportunity to express a deep sense of gratitude to the mentors of Dezyne E’cole college for their
cardinal support, valuable information and guidance.
Kriti Tolani
2nd Year Diploma In Fashion Design
NSQF Level 6, NSDC
Acknowledgement

4. Garment Technology
Dezyne E’cole College
Civil Lines, Ajmer
www.dezyneecole.com
This project of Ms. Kriti Tolani Student of B.Sc. Fashion Technology with two years Advance Diploma Program
has been checked and graded as ________________________________
_____________________________________________________
Thanks
Principal
[Seal & Signature]

5. Garment Technology
Synopsis
In Sewing, a seam is the join where two or more layers of fabric, leather, or other materials are held together
with stitches. In clothing construction, seams are classified by their type (plain, lapped, abutted, or French
seams) and position in the finished garment ( center back seam, inseam, sideseam). Seams are finished
with a variety of techniques to prevent ravelling of raw fabric edges and to neaten the inside of garments.
In this project, I have discussed about the seams, their types, their uses, about SPI(stitch per inch) in details
and specified various basic class which is in my subsequent pages.

6. Garment Technology
Sr. no. Topic
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Seams
How they are suitable?
Types
SPI
Stitch classes
Seam classes
Content

7. Garment Technology
Project Report On
Seams And Stitches Classes
In this project we have to make a project in detail
specifying various basic classes of
stitches in British Standard 3870 Part 1 and the
various types of seams
as per British standard 3870:1991.

8. Garment Technology
Seams
Seam is a term which refers to the stitching line where two fabrics are stitched together. It is the basic building block of a
garment. They form the structure of the garment and help to create the garment. They arealso used as decorative feature.
The stitching line along the seam is called the seam line. The seam allowance (SA) is the space between the fabric edge
and the seam line.
Seams should be carefully done for a beautifully finished garment. Knowledge of the seam finishes will enhance the look
of your sewn garment.

9. Garment Technology
Seams suitable for Sewing:
There are some things to take into consideration when deciding what seams to use.
Types of Fabric - “What kind of fabric is it?” is a top consideration. If it is a sheer fabric the seam finish you select will be
different from what it will, if the fabric is heavy weight Brocade cloth. A loosely woven cotton seam will be finished differently
from a rayon blend fabric seam. A lace cloth will have a different seam than a denim cloth.
Seam placement - A curved will be differently treated from a straight seam. If it is exposed seam as in a pant, it will be different
from a enclosed seam as in a yoke or a collar.
Garment purpose and use- A child’s dress will need a more sturdy seam than a camisole top. A wedding gown will not have the
same seam finish as a biker’s gear.
01. Plain seam
02. Plain seam with a single stitch
03. Plain seam with double stitch
04. Hairline seam
05. Lapped seam(also called Tucked seam)
06. French seam
07. Flat felled seam or Run and fell seam
08. Mock flat fell seam(also welt seam)
09. Corded or piped seam
10. Faced seam
11. Hemmed fell seam
12. Mock french seam
13. Serged seam
14. Slot Seam
15. Counter seam
16. Butt seam
17. Sheet seam/ linen seam
How seams are suitable?

10. Garment Technology
Types of Seams
1.Plain seam
In a Plain seam, to fabrics are joined together along the seam line by a line of stitching. It is also called a single needle
Butterfly stitch as once the seam is made the seam allowances are pressed open to either side of the seam line to look
like a butterfly.This is the simplest and easiest seam to make. It can be made by hand or machine. Straight stitches are
used to make this seam though sometimes a tight zig zag stitch can also be used to make this seam especially for knit
or stretch fabrics.This seam requires a seam finish for its exposed edges.
This advantage of a plain seam is that this seam does not add bulk to the seam lines. But as it has only a single line
of stitch the strength of the seam is not that great.
2. Plain seam with a single stitch
A single top stitching seam, this seam is a strong seam as well as a decorative one.
3. Plain seam with double top stitch
Double top stitching seam; this is a decorative seam which also provides great strength to the seam line.
4. Hairline seam
This is a type of enclosed seam which is mostly used for collars and other enclosed areas. The seam allowances
are not visible from the outside as it gets enclosed.

11. Garment Technology
Types of Seams
5. Lapped seam
This is a very useful seam when sewing with heavy fabrics like suede, artificial leather, felt.
When sewing with heavy fabrics, as the edges of these fabrics do not fray, you can create
this seam by trimming the whole seam allowance of the top piece. Now the bulk is
eliminated as there is no fabric to turn under.
6. French seam
This is the best seam for sheer fabrics. As this seam encloses the raw edges in a fold, the
raw edges are not seen from outsidewithout adding much bulk. This seam is usually done
on straight edges but if you clip nicely it can also be done on curved edges.
7. Flat felled seam or run and fell seam
Mostly used in sportswear, men’s shirts, jeans kids cothes, pajamas etc. It provides
adequate strenght to the seam line. This seam can be stitched inside as well as outside
the garment.

12. Garment Technology
Types of Seams
8. Mock flat fell seam
This is a seam which looks a lot like flat fell seam but is easier to make. Unlike the flat fell seam here the raw edge is not
turned under. So this seam will have exposed raw edges of the seams on the wrong side. Hence, it is better to be used with
fabrics which do not fray or where the seam will not be seen. This is great seam for bulky fabric like felt or synthetic leather.
9. Closed or piped seam
In this seam a fabric covered cording is inserted between the seam lines. It is a decorative seam and is mostly used in
collars, cuffs, pockets, and home decorating fabrics.
10. Faced seam
A faced seam is usually used in the seams of armholes, necklines, and waistlines. It creates a very good finish to the seam
line.
11. Hemmed fell seam
How to sew a hemmed fell seam
Make a plain seam. One seam side is trimmed to half of the other side. The other seam is turned down and hemmed by
hand.
12. Mock french seam
This is a seam which can be used in place of French seam where a french seam may not be possible like in a curved seam
line, for eg. Armholes of a transparent dress. This will neatly finish the seam line also.
How to sew mock french seam
Unlike the french seam, here a plain sea with right side together is made first.Place the fabrics right sides together. Stitch a
plain seam along the stitching line. Press the seam open and then closed.
Turn in the edge of the seam allowance of each seam 1/4 inch. Edge stitch along the folded edge, so that the raw edge is
enclosed inside.

13. Garment Technology
Types of Seams
13. You need a serger or Overlock machine for this seam. In this seam instead of a plain straight stitch the serger
stitch is used onthe seams and the seam allowance is trimmed by the machine. This seam gives stretch and flexibility
to the seam.This seam can be used under the following conditions
1. If it is not important that seams are kept flat or open.
2. for loose garments
3. on lightweight fabrics
4. When dsewing with kniys
How to sew a serged seam
Place right sides of the fabrics together matching the stitching lines.
Keep the fabric under the needle.
The serger will automaticaly trim the seam allowance and enclose th efabric edges in a thread.
A3 thread serged seam will give stretch to the seam and a4 thread serged seam will give strength to the seam.
A3 thread serged seam is usually used for knit fabrics for its stretching property.
14. This seam which is similar to the lapped seam, is used for its functional as well as decorative properties.
15. Counter seam
A very suitable seam for heavy materials, in this both the raw edges are enclosed by both the seam allowances along the
seam line.
How to sew a counter seam
Turn under the seam allowances of both the fabric pieces to the wrong side. Press
Place the wrong side of the first piece of fabric on the right side of the second piece along the edges, keeping the seam
allowances.Pin in place.
Stitch along the folded edge.

14. Garment Technology
Types of Seams
16. Butt Seam
The fabric edges are folded and joined together by a zigzag stitch or chain stitch. This is used when joining seams where
you do not want any bulk. For example when sewing lingerie. You can make this kind of seam.
17. Sheet seam / linen seam
This is a seam where we use an embroidery stitch to join the seams. It looks absolutely beautifully though not as strong
as the otherseams the stitches can be set horizontally or slanting. Antwerp edging stitches, Fishbone stitch, blanket stitch
or herringbone stitch can be used in this manner joining the seams. These stitches are called insertion stitches.
How to do this seam
1. Finish the fabric edges
2. Tack the edges of the two fabric ends with a buttonhole bar stitch
3. Cur a strip of paper of 1 inch width and the length equal to the fabric edge
4. Baste the edges of the fabric to the paper so that the distance between them is 1/2 inch
5. Work the stitches between the fabric edges, interlacing, knots, twisting all work between the edsges.

15. Garment Technology
Perfect machine stitching is easy to achieve if you thread the machine properly and use the correct needle and thread suitable for the
fabric used. A perfect stitch depends on the delicate balance of pressure on fabric action of the feel and tension on the stitch formation.
The correct SPI or stitch per inch gives you a seam, which is neither too tight nor too loose.
SPI (Stitch Per Inch)
1. Light Muslin, cambric 50 9-11 14-20
and other thin
fabrics
2. Medium Shirting, poplins 40-50 14 12
etc.
3. Medium Light woolen 40 16 10-12
heavy brocade,
corduroy
4. Heavy woolen 20 18 8-10
upholstery fabrics
SL. No. Weight of the Type of cloth Thread Needle SPI
Fabric sizesize
To select a correct size thread and needle to get perfect finish of the garment

16. Garment Technology
Stitch Classes
Class 100:
Stitches and seams are the basic element of sewing, and national and international and standards have been developed for
accurately classifying them. Some examples are given here.
STITCHES
The basic classes in British Standard 3870 Part 1 are:
Class 100 There are chain stitches formed from a needle thread only and they are typically used for basting, felling and blind
stitching.
Class One thread Basting, or
101 light construction
Class One thread Blind stitch for
103 hemming
Class One thread Blind stitch for
104 hemming
Stitch
class
No. of thread Typical uses

17. Garment Technology
Stitch Classes
Class200 Originally hand stitches, these are mostly formed by single threads passed from one side of the material
to the other with each successive penetration of the needle. Various classes of this stitch are used for saddle stitching
and the prick stitching of edges.
Class One thread Basting, tackling
202 or repairs
Class One thread Prick stitch
205 top stitching
Stitch
class
No. of thread Typical uses
Class 200 :

18. Garment Technology
Stitch Classes
Class 300 :
Class Two threads Seaming multiple
301 plies
Class Two threads zigzag stitch, a
304 stretch lockstitch
Class Two threads Blind stitch
306
Class Two threads Three step zigzag
315
Stitch
class
No. of thread Typical uses
Class
the stitch.
300 These are also reffered to as lock stitches because the top and under groups of threads are interlaced to form
The most widely used stitch formation in this class is no. 301, which is that produced by a regular sewing machine.
Stitch Class 301

19. Garment Technology
Stitch Classes
Class 400 :
Class400 Formed by two or more groups of threads, the loops of which are interlaced and inter looped, stitch no. 401 is a
chain stitch formed from two threads and is widely used for knitted materials because the stitchformation makes for good
extensibility and lateral strength.
Class Two thread Seaming multiple
401 Plies with moderate
stretch
Class Three thread Bottom cover stitch
406
Stitch
class
No. of thread Typical uses

20. Garment Technology
Stitch Classes
Class 500 :
Class Two threads One needle over
502 edge stitch for
serging
Class Two threads Over edge stitch for
503 serging with class1
over on edge fabric
Class Three threads Over edge stitch
504 for serging
Class Four threads Make safety stitch
512 for seaming with
wide bite and greater
stretch for knits
Class Four threads Over edge stitch for
514 seaming with wide bite
and greater stretch for
knits
Class Four threads True safety stitch for
515 seaming with good
stretch for woven and
knits
Stitch
class
No. of thread Typical uses
Class 500 These are known as over edge stitches because at
least one group of threads covers the edge of the material. In
this class, stitch no. 504 is a three thread over locking stitch used
for assembling light weight knits and also for cleaning and
finishing the seam and hem edges of garments. When the 401
chain stitch and the 504 overlock stitch are sewn simultaneously
they form what is called a five thread safety stitch where the
chain and overlock stitches are not connected. This stitch
combination is widely used for seaming denim and cheaper
grades of trousers. Another class of safety stitch, sometimes
called a mock safety stitch, is formed from four threads where
oneor two of the overlock threads interlace with the needle thread.
This stitch class is used for assembling garments made from light
weight materials and sometimes for linings. Due to their
construction, safety stitched seams cannot be pressed open but
have to be pressed to one side which, with heavy weight materials,
is apt to create a bulky seam appearance.

21. Garment Technology
Stitch Classes
Class 600 :
Class Four thread Covering stitch or
602 seaming knits
Class Five thread Covering stitch or
605 butt seams
Class Six thread Wide covering stitch
607 or butt seams
Stitch
class
No. of thread Typical uses
Class600 There are many complex stitch formations in this class because the stitches can be formed from three
to nine threads and the use of up to four needles. This class of stitches is characterised by high elasticity and strength
and is frequently used for flat butted seams in the corsetry and underwear sectors of the clothing industry.

22. Garment Technology
This seam is constructed with a minimum of two components and is the most widely used seam construction in this class.
Among others, safety stitched and French seams are covered by this class.
This class is the commonest construction of seam and it has the following types.
1. French seam
2. Piped seam
The simplest seam type within the class is formed by superimposing the edge of one piece of material on another. A variety
of stitch types can can be used on this type of seam, both for joining the fabrics and for neatening the edges or for achieving
both simultaneously.
The diagrams normally show the final version and it should be clear from the positions of the needles and the folding of the
fabric if it was constructed in one step or several. An example if this is the type of superimosed seam know as french seam
that is done in two stages.
As example of a superimposed seam with an additional component would be one that contained an inserted piping and even
here more than one construction is possible
Class 1 (Superimosed Seam)
Defination
Types
Construction

23. Garment Technology
Ssa
Sse
Ssf
Ssk
Ssp
Ssq
Ssz
Ssae
Plain seams on dresses,blouses trousers
Enclosed seams at edges of collars and cuffs
Strap seams, tapping or staying
Piped seam
Hem or single-needle French seam
Sandwich seam used to set waistbands
Plain seam,busted and top stitched on each side
French seam
Ssa
Sse
Ssf
Ssk
Ssp
Ssq
Ssz
Ssae
Plain seams on dresses,blouses trousers
Enclosed seams at edges of collars and cuffs
Strap seams, tapping or staying
Piped seam
Hem or single-needle French seam
Sandwich seam used to set waistbands
Plain seam,busted and top stitched on each side
French seam

24. Garment Technology
The simplest seam type in this class is formed by lapping two pieces of material. In practice, this is simple seam is not common in clothing because
it causes problems with raw edges and at least one of the edges must be neatened in a decorative manner. Where it is commonly used is in the joining
of panels in sails where a strong seam is achieved by using two or three rows of zigzagstitching. Sail fabrics are very finely woven and fray very little.
Much more common on long seams on garments such as jeans and shirts is the so called Lap-felled seam, sewn with two rows of stitches on a twin
needle machine equipped with a folding device. This provides a very strong seam in garments that will take a lost of wear though there is possibility
that the thread on the surface may suffer abrasion in areas which as inside leg seam.
Class 2 (Lapped seam)
Lapped Seam
Lapped Fell Seam

25. Garment Technology
Class 2 (Lapped seam)
The type of raised, topstitched seam often used down skirt panels is also technically, a lapped seam although at the beginning of its construction it
appears to be a supper imposed seam. It is often referred to as welted or raised welted seam.
Welted Seam
Lsa Seams for leathers and suedes
LSc Side seams on better mens dress shirt
LSd Set patch pockets, labels
LSf Yoke/black seam men’s dress shirt

26. Garment Technology
In this class, the seam consist of an edges of material, which is bound by another, with the possibility of other components
inserted into the binding.
The simplest version of this class is again unusual, as it cannot be constructed with self-fabric binding because of the problem
of raw edges. It can, however, be made with a binding, which has been constructed, to a specific width.
1. The simplest bound seam
2. A common version where the garment strips. A folding device turns the edged under and wraps the strip over the edge of the
main fabric. Bias cut strip would normally be used, unless the fabric has an element of stretch. A bound seam is often used as a
decorative edge and the binding may continue off the edge of the garment to provide tie ends.
Examples in common use on underwear and leisure wear and on skirts, jeans and ladies trousers.
1. A common finished used on the neck edge of T-shirt and also on the edges of men’s vests and briefs.
2. It has insert of another cut strip. This would normally be in a contrasting colour to the garment and both could contrast with
the outer binding.
3. An elastic has benn included in a sufficiently stretched state to draw the edge of the garment into a snug fit.
4. A waistband, usually with an interlining fused to it, is bound on to top of skirt, jeans or trouser using a folder and twin nedle
machine.
Class 3 (Bound Seam)
Defination:

27. Garment Technology
Class 3 (Bound Seam)
Bsa Binding an edge with ribbon on leather
BSc Binding an edge with bias binding, setting sleeve placket
BSf Binding an edge with fabric
BSk Binding an edge with fabric welting
BSo Binding an edge with fabric

28. Garment Technology
Class 4 (Flat Seams)
In this class, seams are referred to as flat seams because the fabric do not overlap.
They may be butted together without a gap and joined across by a stitch which has two needles sewing into each fabric and covering
threads passing back and front between theseneedles on both sides of the fabric. The machine trims both fabric edges so that they form
a neat join. The machine trims both fabric edges so that they form a neat join. Alternatively, various zigzag stitches could sew back and
froth between the fabrics, which might have a decorative gap between them.
Defination:
Construction:
Knitted fabrics are most commonly used because the advantage of this seam is that it provides a join that is free from bulk in garments
worn close to the skin.
Fabric mainly used:
Knitted underwear. Some example are shown.
Example:
Fsa Flat seams on sweat
shirts and underwear

29. Garment Technology
Class 5 (Decorative Stitch)
Defination:
This is the first to the two classes of seam which, in the old British Standard, were not regarded as seams at all and were given the name
“Stitching”.
Decorative sewing on garments where single or multiple rows of stitches are sewn through one or more layers of fabric.
(a) It shows twin-needle stitching with a ribbon laid under the stitches.
(b) It shows four rows of stitches.
Other possibilities, given the right folding devices, are pin tucks, often sewn in multiples, and channels seams. These are shown in figure
© and (d) . This type of pin tuck is different from the tr-aditional versions, which consist of a fold in the fabric sewn close to the edge.
Construction:
When multiple, parallel tucks are required, the original method is slow and potentially inaccurate in the version shown above, the folder
ensures the tucks are parallels all the tucks are sewn simultaneously.The tucks must, however, be set to face one way or the other and a
decision as to which must be made in relation to the design of the garment.
(a) (b)
© (d)

30. Garment Technology
Class 6 Edge Neatening
There are many complex stitch formations in this class because the stitches can be formed from three to nine threads and the use of up to four
needles. This class of stitches is characterised by high elasticity and strength and is frequently used for flat butted seams in the corsetry and
underwear sectors of the clothing industry.
a b
c d

31. Garment Technology
Class 7 Applied Seam
Seam in this class relate to the addition of separate items to the edge of a garment part. They are similar to the lapped
seam except that the added component has a definite edge on both sides. Examples would be a band of lace attatched to
the lower edge of a slip, elastic braid on the edge of a bra and inserted elastic on the leg of a swimsuit.
a
b
c

32. Garment Technology
Class 8 Single Ply Construction
The final seam class in the British Standard is another where only one piece of material need be involved in constructing seam.
The commonest seam type in this class is the belt loop a used on jeans, raincoats, etc. this is shown.
Also included in this class are belts themselves and two possible constructions for these are shown in (a) and (b).
The use on the belt loop of the stitch type mentioned before which has two needles and a bottom covering thread ensures that the raw edges are
covered over on the underside while showing two row of plain stitching on the top. The belt shown in © is quicker and cheaper to construct than the
one shown in (b) but, as always, a special machine attachment is required to fold the fabric.
a b c

33. Garment Technology
Biblography
FASHION DESIGN Women’s wear (Subject Book)
Garment Technology (Subject Book)

34. Garment Technology
Thank You