A thermoelectric fan is powered by a candle using the thermoelectric effect. A thermoelectric module generates voltage from the temperature difference between its hot and cold sides. In the fan, a candle heats one side of a module, while a CPU heatsink cools the other. The voltage powers a motor that spins a fan, circulating air to maintain the temperature difference and continue powering the fan. The design aims to use a candle's waste heat to power an electric air circulator in an efficient yet simple homemade project.

1. Thermoelectric Fan
Powered by a Candle
Rehan Fazal
1171110180
EIE ‘C’
SRM University

2. The thermoelectric effect is the direct conversion
of temperature differences to electric voltage and
vice-versa. A thermoelectric device creates voltage
when there is a different temperature on each side.
Conversely, when a voltage is applied to it, it creates
a temperature difference. At the atomic scale, an
applied temperature gradient causes charge carriers
in the material to diffuse from the hot side to the cold
side.
This effect can be used to generate electricity,
measure temperature or change the temperature of
objects. Because the direction of heating and cooling
is determined by the polarity of the applied voltage,
thermoelectric devices can be used as temperature
controllers.

3. A Thermoelectric generator powered by a tealight.
It started as an experiment of how much power I
could get from one candle. But I liked the idea and
it worked really well so I built this electric-
mechanical ornament. I did not use a high
temperature TEG-module, but instead a cheap
TEC-module. That can still handle 200 degrees
Celsius which is good enough

4. Concept:
It is also called a peltier element and when you
use it as a generator it's called seebeck effect. You
have one hot side and one cold. The module
generates power to drive a motor and the motor
fan/air flow will cool the upper heat sink. Higher
temperature difference => increased output
power => increased motor RPM => increased air
flow => increased temperature difference and so
on. The airflow will spread the heat into your room,
which is the purpose of this construction.

5. Components used:
• CPU-cooler (cold side): Zalman CNPS5X (Base
plate: 33x33mm)
• CPU-cooler (hot side): From an old PC
(WxLxH=78x63x67mm)
• TEC-module: TEC1-07110T200 (30x30x3.3mm)
• DC Motor: 1,5-3V
• USB-fan (metal, only needed the fan)
• Thermal paste: Arctic MX-4
• A piece of wood
• Two pull springs
• Four M4 bolts and two M3 bolts
• Aluminum tubes (optional)

6. Construction:
First of all, it does not need to be exactly those
components. Other heat sinks, TEC/TEG,
motor, fan, thermal paste, bolts and base plate
can be used. Main concept rules are:
A TEC or TEG module (smaller dimension than
upper heat sink base plate). Specifications are
not that important but make sure it can handle
high temperature. Many modules are only 100
degrees C and then you need to modify the
construction as it gets warmer than that.
One hot side that is not hotter than TEC max-
temp (My candle flame never touches the
surface)

7. Thermoelectric Cooler - 40x40mm
Description: Thermoelectric coolers (TEC or Peltier)
create a temperature differential on each side. One side
gets hot and the other side gets cool. Therefore, they can
be used to either warm something up or cool something
down, depending on which side you use. You can also
take advantage of a temperature differential to generate
electricity. The thermal tape listed below works very well
to attach heat sinks to the hot side.

8. We recommend using an old computer CPU
heatsink or other block of metal to pull
heat from the hot side
Features:
40 x 40 x 3.6mm
I max - 7A
V max - 15.4V
P max - 62.2W
T max - 69C
1.7 Ohm resistance
127 thermocouples
Max Operating Temp: 180°C
Min Operating Temp: -50°C

9. Thermoelectric
Cooler

11. One cold side, an efficient heat sink (heat pipes)
are a good choice
Good thermal paste to maximize temperature
difference
Low voltage motor, around 1V. I prefer it to be
quite (low dB)
Fan with high air flow at low RPM
Base plate that adds stability, holder for light,
isolate heat
The lower heat sink (hot side) was cut and
polished to get it nice looking. I kept 5mm of the
fins to absorb the heat well when the light flame
burns and increases distance to the surface.

12. New dimensions are 78x63x15mm. 4 holes are
drilled through the heat sink and threaded as M4.
4 bolts will hold the lower heat sink on top of a
wooden platform. Bolts go through the platform
from below, covered with aluminum pipes for a
better looking design and are screwed into the
heat sink. The distance between wood and heat
sink is 35mm but I would make it 40-45mm as the
flame almost touches the surface. You don´t want
that because it creates black soot. The lower heat
sink gets really warm but at the same time it works
as a cooler to not get TOO warm, that would melt
the TEG-module.

14. Two springs attached to M3 bolts fixate the upper
heat sink on the lower, with TEC-module and
thermal paste in between. Both surfaces of the
TEC are covered with a thin smooth layer of
thermal paste. The springs adds pressure as well
as isolate the heat to travel to the cold side. The
upper heat sink could also be screwed into the
lower heat sink but then you need isolated screws.
The TEC is directly attached/soldered to the motor
and the motor is attached to the upper heat sink by
another small piece of metal and a cable tie. The
fan is attached to the motor with a small belt wheel
and glue.

16. Result:
I think the hot aluminum part get to about 100-150
Celsius, I measured the temp with a grill
thermometer covered in thermal paste but can´t
tell how accurate it was. I measured 0.4V and
0.25A with one candle and 0.67V and 0.54A with
two. That results in 0.1W resp. 0.36W output
power. The efficiency to produce electricity this
way is not that impressive though. A candle
produce about 25 Watts, that means 0.7%
efficiency.. But who cares, everything this machine
does will eventually end up in heat any way =)
That is a bit interesting, you increase the room-
heating speed (I think) but looses nothing..

17. Mod Proposals:
Skip the base platform and bolts and use it as a
stove-fan.
Use two/four TECs side-by-side to
multiply output power. Add a 5-10mm thick
copper plate that covers all modules and then
place the CPU-cooler on top of that.
Use a brushless DC motor and a suitable fan to
make it noiseless.
Build in a slow motor beneath the platform to
make the whole thing spin 360 degrees.
Put wheels on the platform.

19. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w7IFR5WkjOg
Video link:-

20. THANK YOU