Fiber, Yarn & Fabric I Basic of fabric I Fiber Classification I Yarn Manufacturing I Fabric construction.

1
All Right Reserve © PLCSUPVA Lect. Anil Kumar (Textile Design)
Basic of Fiber to Fabric

2
Basics of fiber to fabric
Textile-It is fabric made of fiber or Yarn by various technique.
Monomer-Smallest molecule of fiber called monomer.
Polymer-Large molecule made by connecting many small molecules called polymer.
Fiber – A hair like structure is known as fiber.(e.g.. Cotton, Polyester , Silk Wool Etc).
Staple – A fiber which has small length is know as staple fiber (e.g. Cotton , Jute etc ).
Filament- A fiber having long length is known as filament (e.g. Silk, Wool etc).
Yarn- Assemble of many fiber and spun together to form continuous strand is called yarn.
Fabric – Goods which is constructed from solution , fiber , yarn is called fabric.
Absorbency-A measure of how much amount of water a fabric can absorb.
Spinning- It is a process to convert fiber in to yarn through various process .

3
Weaving –It is a process to convert yarn in to fabric by interlacing the thread .
Knitting – It is the formation of fabric by inter looping the thread .
Dyeing – Uniform application of color in to fiber , yarn , fabric is know as dyeing .
Printing – It is localized application of color in to fabric is known as printing
Finishing -It is a process to convert fabric in to usable material through process.
Microfiber - Fibers with strands thinner than one denier.
Nonwoven fabric- Non-woven textiles are those which are neither woven nor knit, for
example felt.
Affinity -Chemical attraction; the tendency of two elements or substances to unite or combine,
such as fiber and dyestuff.

4
▪Crease -A break or line in a fabric generally caused by a sharp fold.
▪Crease Resistant –Fabric is chemically treated to improve its resistance to recovery from wrinkling.
▪Crimp-The waviness of a fiber expressed as crimps per unit length.
▪Density – The mass per unit volume.
▪Durability -A relative term for the resistance of a material to loss of physical properties or appearance as a
result of wear or dynamic operation.
▪Elasticity-The ability of a strained material to recover its original size and shape immediately after removal
of the stress that causes deformation.
▪Elongation -The deformation in the direction of load caused by a tensile force. Elongation is measured in
units of length (e.g., millimeters, inches) or calculated as a percentage of the original specimen length.
Elongation may be measured at any specified load or at the breaking load.

5
Fiber & Classification

The Garment made out of Textile
6
The question:
What are the main material about fashion ?
•Fibers
•Yarns
•fabrics

7

8
Types of Fibers
• Synthetic
• Rayon
• Nylon
• Acetate
• Acrylic
• Spandex
• Polyester
• Natural
• Silk
• Cotton
• Wool
• Mohair
• Cashmere

9
Cellulose Fibers
• Cotton—Vegetable fiber; strong, tough, flexible,
moisture absorbent, not shape retentive
• Rayon—Chemically-altered cellulose; soft, lustrous,
versatile
• Cellulose acetate—Cellulose chemically-altered to create
an entirely new compound not found in nature.
Protein Fibers
• Wool—Animal fiber coming most often from sheep, but
may be goat (mohair), rabbit (angora), camel, alpaca, llama,
vicuna
•Silk—Insect fiber that is spun by a silk worm to make its
cocoon; fiber reflects light and has insulating properties

10
Mineral Fibers
• Asbestos—A natural fiber that has been used in
fire-resistant substances
• Rock wool—A manufactured mineral fiber
• Fiberglass—A manufactured inorganic fiber
Synthetic Fibers (Made from derivatives of
petroleum, coal and natural gas)
• Nylon—Most durable of man-made fibers;
extremely light weight
• Polyester—Most widely used man-made fiber
• Acrylic—Provides warmth from a
lightweight, soft and resilient fiber

11
Natural fiber Synthetic fiber
1 Directly Comes from nature. Made from nature.
2 The length can not be controlled. length can be controlled.
3 Comfortable and good for health. Quite Uncomfortable and not so good for health.
4 It is expensive compare to MMF. It is not expensive compare to NF.
5 We have to depend on nature forits production. For production, no dependence on nature is
necessary.
6 It is not much favorable for finishing. It is favorable for finishing.
7 Example – cotton, silk, etc. Example – Polyester, Nylon, etc.

12

13
Yarn & Its properties
Cotton
❖ Cotton is a soft fibre that grows around the seeds of the cotton plant.
❖ Cotton fibre grows in the seed pod or boll of the cotton plant . each
fibre is a single elongated cell that is flat twisted and ribbon like
with a wide inner hollow (lumen).
Composition
❖ 90% cellulose,6% moisture and the remainder fats and impurities.
❖ the outer surface is covered with a protective wax like coating which
gives fibre an adhesive quality.
Cotton boll

14
PROPERTIES
It has 8% moisture regain
❖ The cellulose is arranged in a way that gives cotton unique properties of strength, durability,
and absorbency.
❖ It is fresh , crisp , comfortable ,absorbent , flexible, has no pilling problems and has good
resistance to alkalis.
❖ It has poor wrinkle resistance, shrinkage, poor acid resistance , less abrasion resistance ,
susceptible to damage by moths and mildew, needs lots of maintenance and stains are
difficult to remove.
❖ Its fiber length ranges from ½ inches to 2inches
❖ It has 10% increase in strength when wet.
❖ It has a flat twisted tube shape.
Cont…….

15
Silk is a natural fiber that can be woven into textiles. It is
obtained from the cocoon of the silk worm larva, in the
process known as sericulture
Properties
❖ It’s a fine continuous strand unwound from the cocoon of a
moth caterpillar known as the silkworm.
❖It is the longest and thinnest natural filament fibre with the
longest filament around 3000yards.
❖It is relatively lustrous ,smooth, lightweight, strong and
elastic.
❖It is essentially composed of protein fibre and is naturally a
white coloured fiber.
Silk

16
Wool is the fiber derived from the fur of animals principal.
Properties
❖It has the highest moisture regain i.e., 14%.
❖It exhibits felting property and is easy to spin.
❖Due to crimp present in it, it has heat in stored within the
length of the fiber is around 3-15 inches.
Wool

17
Jute is one of the cheapest natural fibers and is second only to cotton in
amount produced and variety fibers are composed primarily of the plant
cellulose and lignin .
Properties
❖Jute is a long, soft, shiny vegetable fibre that can be spun into coarse,
strong.
❖It is a lingo -cellulosic fibre that is partially a textile fibre and partially
wood.
❖The plant grows up to a height of 2.5m and its fibre length is about
2m.
❖It is generally used in geo textiles.
❖It has a good resistance to microorganisms and insects.
❖It has low wet strength, low elongation and inexpensive to reduce
Jute Fiber

18
Bast fibre or skin fibre is fibre collected from the Phloem (the
bast surrounding the stem of a certain plant
Properties
❖The bast fibres have often higher tensile strength than other
kinds, and ropes, yarn, paper, composites and burlap.
❖A special property of bast fibers are that the fiber at that point
represents a weak point.
❖They are obtained by the process called retting.
Bast fibre

19
Ramie is one of the oldest fibre crops, having been used for.
Properties
❖Ramie requires chemical processing to de-gum the fibre.
❖it is fine absorbent ,quick drying fibre, is slightly stiff and
possesses high natural luster.
❖its plant height is 2.5m and its strength is eight times more
than cotton.
Ramie Fibre

20
Depending on the processing used to remove the fiber from
the stem, the hemp naturally maybe creamy white, brown,
gray, black or green.
Properties
❖it is yellowish brown fibre
❖Hemp fibers can be 3 to 15 feet long, running the length of
the plant.
❖Characteristics of hemp fibre are its superior strength and
durability, resistance to ultraviolet light and mold, comfort and
good absorbency
Hemp Fibre

21
Rayon is a manufactured regenerated cellulosic fiber.
❖It is the first man made fibre .
❖It has a serrated round shape with smooth surface.
❖It loses 30-50% of its strength when it is wet.
❖Rayon is produced from naturally occurring polymers and
therefore it is not as cellulosic fiber.
❖The fiber is sold as artificial silk.
❖There are two principal varieties of rayon namely viscose
and cupra ammonium rayon.
Rayon

22
A manufactured fiber in which the fiber forming substance is
cellulose acetate.Acetate is derived from cellulose by reacting
purified cellulose from wood pulp with acetic acid and acetic
anhydride in the presence of sulfuric acid.
Acetate Fiber Characteristics
❖Luxurious feel and appearance
❖Wide range of colors and lusters
❖Excellent drapability and softness
❖Relatively fast drying
❖Shrink, moth and mildew resistant
❖Special dyes have been developed for acetate since it does not
accept dyes ordinarily used for cotton and rayon.
Acetate Fiber

23
❖Polyester is a category of polymers which contain the ester
functional group in their main chain.
❖The term "polyester" is most commonly used to refer to
polyethylene terephthalate (PET).
❖It has a high melting temperature.
❖It can be dyed with only disperse dyes.
❖They are thermoplastic, have good strength and are
hydrophobic
❖The fibre has a rod like shape with a smooth surface.
❖It is lustrous and its hand is crisp.
❖It has excellent resiliency and is the best wash and wear fabric.
Polyester

24
❖Nylon is one of the most common polymers used as A fiber.
❖There are several forms of nylon depending up on chemical synthesis
such as nylon 4, 6, 6.6, 6.10, 6.12,8,10 and 11.
❖Nylon is found in clothing all the time, but also in other places, in the
form of a thermoplastic material.
❖Nylons are also called polyamides, because of the characteristic
amide groups in the backbone chain.
Nylon

25
❖Glass– Silica sand, lime stone and other minerals
❖Ceramic – Alumina, Silica and Graphite fibers – Carbon
❖Metallic fibers- Aluminum, silver, gold and stainless steel
Inorganic fiber

•Yarn Manufacturing Process (Spinning of yarn)
Spinning is the actual process where the yarn is formed. But before spinning can commerce,
fibres must be prepared so that they satisfy the following key requirements:
❖The fibres are free from impurities
❖The fibres are sufficiently individualised and aligned
❖The natural properties of fibres are preserved
❖The fibres are prepared in a form that is suitable for feeding the subsequent spinning process
Different fibres require different preparation methods
26

27
Blow-room processes
(blend, open & clean)
Carding
Drawing
Lap forming
Combing
Drawing (x 2)
Rotor spinning Roving
Ring spinning
Short staple yarns
Carded rotor spun yarn, Carded ring spun yarn
Combed rotor spun yarn, Combed ring spun yarn
Cotton growing
Ginning
COTTON LINT
(Transport to textile mill)
Baling, HVI Classing
Engineered Fibre Selection EFS
(Marshalling into “mixes” or laydowns)
Cotton seed -
by product
Agricultural
Processes
Textile
Processes
Harvest
❖ Hand picking of the cotton bolls
❖ Ginning
❖ Opening and cleaning
❖ Carding
❖ Drawing and Combing
❖ Roving
❖ Spinning
❖ Sizing
❖ Warping
❖ Drawing and Drafting
❖ Weaving
❖ Finishing
Flow chart of cotton fibre to fabric

28 Basics of fiber to fabric
Cotton bolls Ginning Blow room Carding Roving
Spinning Warping Sizing Warping Sizing Weaving

29
❖The agricultural processes include cotton growing,
harvesting and ginning.
❖Cotton grown in different regions have different properties.
❖Modern cotton harvesting uses machine pickers or strippers.
❖Since large quantities of impurities such as green bolls, leaf,
stick, and trash are also picked up during cotton harvesting,
together with the seed cotton. On a weight basis, “seed cotton”
contains approximately 35% fibre (lint), 55% seed, and 10%
trash.
❖Cotton seed and other impurities need to be removed from
the fibres. This is largely done in a gin, which removes all
green balls and cotton seeds, about 95% burrs, 92% sticks,
and about 85% fine trash.
Overview of cotton
Cotton Bolls

30
Ginning
The process of separating fibers from the
cotton seeds.
It is done by hand, using a sharp comb like
object like a fish bone which also removes the
larger fragments of trash.
It is important to keep in mind at this
stage that before fibres can be made
into useful yarns, they should be:
❖ Free from impurities
❖Well individualised and aligned
❖Well mixed
❖Of adequate length and strength

31
Ginning
The other method involves the
use of a small wooden device
with toothed rollers.
Fibre opening needs to be gradually carried out so as not to stress
and damage the fibres too much. In fact, there are two opening
stages:
❖Breaking apart (break large tufts of fibres into small tufts)
❖Opening out (open small tufts into individual fibres)
❖The ginned cotton is now known as cotton lint or lint cotton.
❖The fibres in the cotton lint vary considerably in length because
of fibre breakage caused by the severe mechanical actions during
ginning and cleaning.
❖ The cotton lint is then sampled and packed into bales weighing
227 kg. Cotton Bails

32
Cotton Growing Cotton Ginning Cotton Yarn Manufacture
• Planting of selected
cotton varieties (eg.
Siokra L23)
• Fertilising and irrigation
• Weed and insect control
• Application of growth
regulators
• Application of harvesting
aids.
• Single harvest by spindle
harvester or stripper
• Removal or green bolls,
sticks etc
• Separation of lint from
seed
• Lint cleaning (up to 3
stages)
• Sampling and baling
• Weighing and testing
(classing)
• Storage and transport to
spinning mill
• Selection of bale lay
downs or mixes
• Blow room processes
• Carding
• Drawing
• Combing (if necessary)
• Further drawing
• Spinning (ring, rotor or
air-jet)
Overview of cotton growing, ginning and yarn manufacturing stages

33
Blow room
❖ The blowroom is the section of a cotton spinning mill where the preparatory processes of
opening, blending and cleaning are carried out.
❖ The blowroom machines blend, open and clean the ginned cotton before feeding it to the
cotton card.
❖ The ginned cotton, still contaminated with some impurities, arrives in the textile mill in
compressed bales, fibre properties often vary from bale to bale. Blending is regarded as the
most important process in a cotton spinning mill.
❖ It reduces variation of fibre characteristics, permits uniform processing and improves yarn
quality. In the blending process, different cottons of known physical properties are combined
to give a mix with the required or pre-determined average characteristics.
Objects are blow room –
❖To open the cotton from mated condition to the lose open state in which it was before baling.
❖To remove all the impurities and make the cotton look as clean as possible .
❖To prepare the cotton into a convenient package from for being transported t subsequent
machine.

34
Carding
Objectives and working principle
"well carded is half spun". Card is also referred to as the
heart of a spinning mill. This highlights the importance of
the carding process.
The main objectives of carding are:
❖Fibre opening/individualising-Card must open to the
individual fibre and elimination of impurities and
performance of the other operations.
❖Fibre cleaning-Eliminate the short fibre & dust .
❖Fibre aligning-The card is often attributed the effect of
parallelizing.
❖Sliver forming-Formation of rope like structure called
sliver .
The process to eliminate the final traces
of trash from the open fibers and to
separate them fully
Bow Carding

35
The mechanized carding machine consists of a very fine wire that separates the fibers almost
individually and then passed through moving steel bars that remove the very short fibers and
tangles. The carded material is then collected as ‘Slivers’.
Card
sliver
1
2
3
4
5
Main cylinder
Doffer
1 - a fibre approaching the doffer
2 - fibre leading end picked up by doffer
3 - fibre trailing end combed forward by cylinder
4 - trailing hook fibre formed on differ
5 - the trailing hook persists to carded sliver
Carding

36
Drawing
Converting bales of fibres to a thin strand of fibres or
yarns requires enormous fibre attenuation. Put simply,
attenuation (drafting) is to make input material longer
and thinner. In this sense, carding can also be regarded as
a fibre attenuation process. Drawing continues the fibre
attenuation, it also performs several other functions.
Objectives
❖Attenuate the card slivers
❖Reduce the fibre hooks and improve fibre alignment
❖Blend and mix fibres
❖Reduce the irregularity of card slivers by doubling
Drawing usually implies the actions of doubling and
drafting. Doubling is the combing of several slivers and
drafting is attenuation.
Draft zone
Main
draft
Measuring
unit
Signal
processing
unit
Servomotor
(for speed
change)
Creel with feed rolers (variable speed)
Autolevelling System
Cans of input slivers
Break
draft
Draw frame with 8 doublings and an auto
levelling unit

37
Combing
Combing is a key process that makes the difference
between an ordinary yarn and a quality yarn. It enables the
ultimate yarn to be smoother, finer, stronger, and more
uniform than otherwise would be possible, at a cost of
course.
The basic objectives of combing are:
Removal of a pre-determined amount of short fibres
❖Removal of neps and impurities
❖Straightening of the retained long fibres
The continuous assembly of long and parallel fibres
delivered by the combing process is called a comb sliver.
Just as long and well-aligned fibre polymers (molecules)
make strong fibres, long and straight fibres in the comb
sliver will make strong and smooth yarns.
The materials rejected in the combing process is called
Noil. Noil contains short fibres, neps and impurities.
Top comb
Nipper
jaws
Feed
rolls
Input
sliver
lap
Cylinder comb
(Circular comb)
Detaching
rolls
Combed sliver
Cotton combing process

38
Cotton
combed
yarn
Cotton carded
yarn
Fibres
used
Staples of 1" up,
finer & more
uniform;
expensive fibre
Shorter staples, coarser &
less uniform;
Fibre less expensive
Yarn
count
Finer Coarser
Appearan
ce
Not hairy,
smooth & clean,
strong & lustrous
More protruding ends,
Bulkier & softer
End-uses shirting, sewing
thread
Washing cloth, trousers
Ginned
lint
Carded
sliver
Combed
sliver
Drawn
sliver
RovingYarn

39
Roving & Spinning
A roving is a fine strand (Slubbing) intended to be fed
into the ring spinning machines (ring frames) for
making yarns. Rotor spinning machine and other new
spinning systems use slivers as feed materials. But
conventional ring frames still use rovings as the feed
material. A roving is much thinner than a sliver, but
thicker than a yarn.
The main objective of the roving machine is to further
attenuate the drawn sliver (to make it longer and
thinner) and get it ready for spinning.
❖Drafting,
❖Twisting,
❖ Winding.
Sliver can
(carded or
combed sliver)
Drafting Unit
Flyer
Vd
nf
nb
Dr
Roving
bobbin
Flyer
leg
Presser
arm
Front
rollers
Double
aprons
Back
rollers
Bobbin
drive
Flyer
drive
Ring frame

40
Roving & Spinning
The drafted slivers are further thinned
out and twisted slightly at the same time
to strengthen it.
The product of this process is called Roving
which is directly spun to produce yarn, during
which the diameter of the yarn is controlled and
calculated. Ravings are wound onto bobbins
ready for spinning.

41

42
Thank you
Anil Kumar , Lecturer (Textile Design)
Pandit Lakhmichand State University of Performing
& Visual Arts , Rohtak
E-mail-anilkumar@plcsupva.ac.in
Mobile no. +919729138649

Fiber, Yarn & Fabric I Basic of fabric I Fiber Classification I Yarn Manufacturing I Fabric construction.

Recommended

Recommended

More Related Content

What's hot

What's hot (20)

Similar to Fiber, Yarn & Fabric I Basic of fabric I Fiber Classification I Yarn Manufacturing I Fabric construction.

Similar to Fiber, Yarn & Fabric I Basic of fabric I Fiber Classification I Yarn Manufacturing I Fabric construction. (20)

More from Anil Kumar

More from Anil Kumar (20)

Recently uploaded

Recently uploaded (20)

Fiber, Yarn & Fabric I Basic of fabric I Fiber Classification I Yarn Manufacturing I Fabric construction.