This is fundamental description , processing of fiber to fabric and their types. types of fiber, spinning process, techniques of fabric making , cover basic natural fibers and fabric ,

1. Fiber to fabric
Presented by
Dr. SRISHTI MAURYA
NET PHD
PRINCIPAL
SNDT MUMBAI

2. 1.Introduction of Textile and Textile Fibers
2.The history of fibers is as old as human civilization. Traces of natural fibers have been
located to ancient civilizations all over the globe. For many thousand years, the usage of fiber
was limited by natural fibers such as flax, cotton, silk, wool and plant fibers for different
applications. Fibers can be divided into natural fibers and man-made or chemical fibers. Flax is
considered to be the oldest and the most used natural fiber since ancient times.

3. TEXTILES (FIBER TO FABRIC)

7. 3.“fiber” or “textile fiber” A unit of matter which is capable of being spun into a yarn or
made into a fabric by bonding or by interlacing in a variety of methods including weaving,
knitting, braiding, felting, twisting, or webbing, and which is the basic structural element of
textile products.
It is a smallest textile component which is microscopic hair like substance that may be man
made or natural.
They have length at least hundred times to that of their diameter or width
4.Fiber Categories • Natural • Originate from natural sources • Plant (cellulosic) or animal
(protein) • Manufactured, synthetic, or man-made (terms interchangeable) • Originate from
chemical sources • May also be from regenerated or recycled sources
5.Natural Fibers • Cellulosic (from plants) • Cotton • From cotton plants • Flax (linen) • From
flax stems • Protein (from animals) • Silk • From cocoons of silkworms • Wool • From fleece
(hair) of sheep or lambs cocoon • lambs

9. • Cotton, one of the world’s leading agricultural crops, is plentiful and economically produced,
making cotton products relatively inexpensive.
• Cotton fabrics can be extremely durable and resistant to abrasion. Cotton accepts many dyes, is
usually washable, and can be ironed at relatively high temperatures.
• It is comfortable to wear because it absorbs and releases moisture quickly.
• When warmth is desired, it can be napped, a process giving the fabric a downy surface. Various
finishing processes have been developed to make cotton resistant to stains, water, and mildew; to
increase resistance to wrinkling, thus reducing or eliminating the need for ironing; and to reduce
shrinkage in laundering to not more than 1 percent.
• Nonwoven cotton, made by fusing or bonding the fibres together, is useful for making disposable
products to be used as towels, polishing cloths, tea bags, tablecloths, bandages, and disposable
uniforms and sheets for hospital and other medical uses.

11. Cotton Processing -
• Harvesting and Growing
• Ginning and Bailing
• Opening and Picking
• Carding
• Combing
• Slivering
• Drawing
• Roving
• Spinning
• Weaving

12. • Silk is a filament spun by the caterpillars of various butter flies. Silk is a
natural protein filament. Its filament density is 1.34 g/cm which make it a
medium weight fiber. Very light weight silk textile materials may be
manufacturing from silk filaments.
• Different Types of Silk:
• Wild or tussah silk: Wild or Tussah silk is a tan-colored fiber from the
cultivated silk worm which feeds on so rub oak. As the cocoons are always
pierced the fibers are shorter than reeled silk. It is different both physically
and chemically from ordinary silk. It is brown in colure, considerably stiffer
and coarser .It is less reactive towards chemical. It is used in the shantung
pongee.
•

13. • Thrown or Greg silk: Thrown silk consists of two or more threads of
raw silk reeled tighter and given a slight twist.
•
• Organize silk: Organize silk is produced from best cocoons. It contains
two or more stands each composed of number of greges twist together
slightly. These threads are then doubled and re-twisted in the opposite
direction to the original twist in the strands (Strand mean a number of
flexible strings twisted together into a rope. Organize silk is used for warp
threads when high tensile strength is required.
•
• Tram silk: Tram silk is usually made from cocoons of lower grade, like
organize. It is composed of two or more strands of thrown silk lightly twisted
together and then doubled.
•
• Chappell silk: When silk is still in the green is spun the yarn is known as
chappell.

14. • The Manufacturing Steps of Silk:
•
Sericulture:
•
• Sericulture the care & nurture of the silk caterpillar is a tedious pain streaking business.
The worm cultivation is called sericulture. The process starts with silk mouth, which less
eggs on specially prepared paper.
•
Softening Cocoons:
•
• The cocoons are shorted according to color, shape & texture.
•
Softening The sericine:
•
• When the silk warm is grown it spins a double strand of silk fibers surrounded by water
soluble substance is called sericine.

15. • Reeling:
•
• The process by which filament is taken up from the cocoons is called reeling . The diameter of the
filament is so little that if it is reeled , its commercial value will be decrease . Moreover double
filament is too delicate to handle alone .
•
Throwing :
•
• The production of yarn from reeled silk know as throwing consists adding twist or of doubling
further twisting these strands into the desired size . When tow or three of silk multifilament are
twisted together to from heavier threads , this process is called throwing .
•
• Advantages of silk fabric:
•
• 1. Luxurious hand (the feel of a fiber, yarn, or fabric to the wearer)
• 2. Excellent drape (a fabrics ability to fold while worn)
• 3. Wonderful luster (reflection of light on fabric)
• 4. Hydrophilic
• Stain resistant
• 6. Strong but lightweight
•

16. SILK FIBER PRODUCTION STEP

18. WOOL FIBER (ANIMAL AND PROTIEN FIBER)
• https://www.woolmark.com/fibre/
wool, animal fibre forming the protective covering, or fleece,
of sheep or of other hairy mammals, such as goats and camels.
Prehistoric man, clothing himself with sheepskins, eventually
learned to make yarn and fabric from their fibre covering.
Selective sheep breeding eliminated most of the long, coarse
hairs forming a protective outer coat, leaving the insulating
fleecy undercoat of soft, fine fibre.

21. SPINNING
• Spinning is the process of conversion of textile fibers and filaments
into yarns for weaving or knitting into fabrics. In this article, we are
going to know about the various processes which lead to the
formation of worsted spun yarns.

23. • Yarn is a strand
composed of fibres,
filaments (individual
fibres of extreme length),
or other materials, either
natural or synthetic,
suitable for use in the
construction of interlaced
fabrics, such as woven
or knitted types.

26. FABRIC MAKING TECHNIQUES

27. WEAVING PROCESS: WARP AND WEFT

28. HANDLOOM WEAVING

29. 7.Weaving Weaving is a textile craft in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads are interlaced
to form a fabric or cloth.
8.Plain weave Plain weave (also called tabby weave or taffeta weave) is the most basic of three
fundamental types of textile weaves (along with satin weave and twill). It is strong and hard-
wearing, used for fashion and furnishing fabrics. A plain-woven fabric In plain weave, the
warp and weft are aligned (associated) so they form a simple criss-cross pattern. Each weft
thread crosses the warp threads by going over one, then under the next, and so on. The next
weft thread goes under the warp threads that its neighbor went over, and vice versa. In
weaving, weft or woof is the yarn which is drawn through the warp yarns to create cloth
9.Balanced plain weaves are fabrics in which the warp and weft are made of threads of the
same weight (size) and the same number of ends per inch as picks per inch. Balanced plain
weave • Basket weave is a variation of plain weave in which two or more threads are bundled
and then woven as one in the warp or weft, or both. Basket weave

30. 10.Satin Weave The satin weave is distinguished by its lustrous, or 'silky',
appearance. Satin describes the way the threads are combined, and the yarn used
may be silk or polyester, among others, giving different fabrics. Stain weave for
silk with 16 warp yarns floating over each weft yarn
11.Twill Weave Twill is a type of textile weave with a pattern of diagonal parallel
ribs (in contrast with a satin and plain weave). This is done by passing the weft
thread over one or more warp threads and then under two or more warp threads
and so on, with a "step" or offset between rows to create the characteristic
diagonal pattern. Because of this structure, twills generally drape well. Examples
of twill fabric are chino, drill, denim, gabardine, tweed and serge.
12.Braiding A braid (also called plait) is a complex structure or pattern formed by
intertwining three or more strands of flexible material such as textile fibres, wire,
or human hair.
•

32. • It is also called tabby weave or taffeta weave or linen weave.
There are many variations of this weave: by combining the materials, the
characteristics of the yarn (colour, size, type) and the reductions, very different
results are obtained.
• Fabrics woven with plain weave are: batiste, crepe, percale, taffeta, chiffon,
georgette, organza, muslin.
• The basket weave, also called hopsack weave, is a variation of the plain weave
obtained by equal extension of the number of both warp and weft threads
(doubled, tripled): the result is an effect like a straw basket.
The fabric woven with a basket weave has a matte weave and flexibility and a
looser construction. It is not as durable as plain weave, though and may shrink in
the wash. It is difficult to sew.
• The rib weave is a modification of a plain weave in which two or more paired
warp yarns intertwine simultaneously with one or more weft yarns. The effect is a
chessboard with an equal right to the reverse.
• In our online shop you can find the following fabrics woven with plain
weave: crepe de chine, crepe de chine stretch, wool double
crêpe, taffeta, chiffon, georgette, organza, pique stretch, wool
crepe, cady and muslin.
•

33. • Twill weave
• Twill weave is distinguished by diagonal lines.
In this weave, one or more warp fibers alternately weave over and under two or more weft
fibers repeatedly (weft-faced) or one or more weft fibers alternately weave over and under
two or more warp fibers repeatedly (warp-faced), creating a characteristic diagonal
appearance.
• It is a very versatile and resistant weave, characterized by parallel diagonal lines, with the
front side different from the back side.
Fabrics made with this weave are not stiff, they adapt to movement with a beautiful drape,
even if they are made with heavy yarns.
• The most used material for this weave is wool, but cotton, silk and synthetic yarns can
also be used.
Silk twill is widely used as a base for accessories, such as scarves or pareos with fancy
prints.
In denim, inarguably the most famous twill fabric, the weft-thread is white or off-white and
the warp-thread is indigo-dyed.
• In our online shop of new tess you can find the following fabrics woven with twill
weave: gabardine stretch, radzemire, tweed and tartan.

34. • Satin weave
• Although satin-weave drafts superficially resemble those of twills, satin weave does not
have the regular step in each successive weft that is characteristic of twills. Thus, the
intertwining of the threads does not give rise to diagonal lines but to spaced and evenly
distributed spots.
• The fabric is smooth faced, with an unbroken and lustrous surface, made up of long
floating warp yarns.
This weave offers the best results with the use of silk yarns, making the fabrics smooth
and uniform.
• The main fabrics with this weave are: satin, rasatello, duchesse, damask, brocade,
lampas.
Normally satins are heavier than plain weaves or twills, but they have a soft handle and
excellent drape.
• In our online shop you can find the following fabrics woven with satin weave: shantung
satin, stretch satin, cotton sateen stretch, lightweight cotton sateen
stretch, duchesse, crepe satin.

39. JAQUARD LOOM AND DOBBY LOOM

41. KNITTING

42. • Knitting is a method by which yarn is manipulated to create a textile,
or fabric. It is used to create many types of garments. Knitting may be
done by hand or by machine.
• Knitting creates stitches: loops of yarn in a row, either flat or in the
round (tubular). There are usually many active stitches on the knitting
needle at one time. Knitted fabric consists of a number of consecutive
rows of connected loops that intermesh with the next and previous
rows. As each row is formed, each newly created loop is pulled
through one or more loops from the prior row and placed on
the gaining needle so that the loops from the prior row can be pulled
off the other needle without unraveling.

43. BRAIDING
Braiding, in textiles, machine or hand method of interlacing three or
more yarns or bias-cut cloth strips in such a way that they cross one
another and are laid together in diagonal formation, forming a narrow strip
of flat or tubular fabric. The word plaiting is generally applied when such
materials as rope or straw are employed.

44. THANK YOU
Dr. Srishti Maurya