This document provides an overview of textiles, including definitions of key terms like fiber, yarn, fabric, and weaving processes. It discusses the composition and characteristics of natural fibers like cotton, and manufacturing processes for yarns and woven fabrics. Different types of looms and weaves are described, including plain weave, twill weave, and herringbone twill. The document also covers topics like fabric design, defects, testing, and end uses of textiles.

1. Explaining Textiles

2. Presentation on Woven Fabric & Related
Process

3. Content
•What is Textile?
•Basic Elements of Textile with Process Flow path
•Textile Fiber
• Yarn Manufacturing Process
•Woven Fabric Manufacturing Process
• Wet Processing Technology
•Dyeing & its objects. Theory of Dyeing
•Name of Dyes used for fabric dyeing
•Brief discussion on Reactive Dye, Disperse Dye & Pigment
•Textile Printing & Textile Finishing
•4-Point Inspection System
•List of fabric defects in woven fabric
•Fabric Design & Structure
•Textile Testing with Parameters
•VF Sportswear Coalition Fabric work process description with other
details.

5. Textile :
A textile was originally from a woven
fabric. But the terms textile & the plural
textiles are now also applied to fibers,
filaments & yarns. Natural & manufactured
and most of the products for which these
are a principal raw material.

6. Fiber:
Fiber has been defined by the textile institute as units of matter by
flexibility, fineness & high ratio of length to thick.
Length: Width = 1000:1
Classification of Fiber:
GlassNylonPolyester ViscoseEtcHairWoolSilkCotton Tencel Lycra
Natural Fiber Man Made Fiber
Fiber
Etc

7. Chemical Composition of Cotton:
Cellulose : 80-90%
Water : 5-7%
Waxes & Fats : 0.5-1%
Protein & Pectin : 3-5%
Ash : 1-1.8%
General Characteristics of Cotton:
Comfortable & Soft Hand.
Good Absorbency.
Color Retention.
Good Strength.
Drapes Well.
Easy to Handle & Sew.
End Use of Cotton:
Apparel: Wide range of wearing apparels like Shirts, Pants, Children’s Wear, Active
Wear, Swimwear, Suits, Jackets, Skirts, Sweaters, Hosiery etc.
Home Fashions: Use in Curtains, Draperies, Bed sheets, Bed covers, Towels, Table
Cloths, Napkins etc.

8. Jute Flax Hemp Ramie Manila
Sisal
Silk
Wool Alpaca Camel
Cashmere
Kapok
Llama Mohair Asbestos

9. Viscose Rayon Cellulose Acetate Acrylic
Nylon Fibre Azlon Fibre Glass Fibre

11. Spinning :
Spinning is a major part of the textile industry. It is
part of the textile manufacturing process where fiber
are converted into yarn, then fabrics.
Spinning is the twisting together of drawn out strands
of fibers to form yarn, though it is colloquially used to
describe the process of drawing out, inserting the
twist, and winding onto bobbins.
This is discussed under as Yarn manufacturing
Technology.

12. Yarn:
Yarn have been defined a product of substantial length
& relatively small cross-section consisting of fiber or
filament with or without twist.
Classification of Yarn:
Yarn may be classified on the basis of structure –
1. Single Yarn
2. Multi Folded Yarn
3. Cabled Yarn
4. Complex Yarn
5. Fancy Yarn

13. Raw Cotton
Mixing
Blow Room
Pre Comber draw Frame
Lap former
Comber
First draw frame
Finisher draw Frame
Simplex
Ring
Winding
Conditioning
Packing
Flow Chart of Yarn:
Process flow chart for Carded/Combed (Ring) yarn:

14. Raw Cotton
Mixing
Blow Room
Carding
Open End
Packing
Process flow chart for Open End (OE) yarn:

15. Hopper
Melted
Melting Pump
Filter
Spinneret
Coverage guide
Spin finish
Traversing Guide
Wounded Up
Process flow chart for Polyester/Nylon/Polypropylene/Lycra yarn:

16. BlowroomRaw Cotton Chute
Chute Carding
Carded Sliver
Carded Sliver Drawframe Drawn Sliver

17. Simplex Roving
Roving Ring Frame Yarn Over Bobbin
Winding
Drawn Sliver
Yarn Over Bobbin Yarn Cone

18. Main Properties of Yarn:
Average Count
TPI ( Twist per inch)
Yarn Evenness(Um)
Thin Places (+/- 50%)
Thick Places (+/- 50%)
Naps (+/- 200%)
Hairiness
Tenacity(CN/Tex)
Count Strength Product(C.S.P)
Etc

19. Trade Name of Polyester:
Country Trade Name
UK Terylene
USA Dacron
USA Fortrel
Japan Tetron
Japan Trevia
Trade Name of Spandex:
Country Trade Name
Dupont Lycra
Japan Royca
Taiwan Ceoro
Taiwan Acelan
China Texlon
Singapur Investa

20. Yarn Count Calculation:
Yarn Count:
Yarn count have been defined a numerical expression
which defines its fineness. It is also called as yarn
number or linear density.
Example: 30’s, 40’s, Tex105 Etc
Classification of Yarn Count : There are two types of
count–
Indirect system: English (Cotton), French (Cotton),
Metric, Liner, Worsted & Woolen.
Direct system: Silk-Nylon, Jute-Hemp, Tex &
Denier.

21. Indirect System:
It has been defined as the number of units of length per unit weight of a yarn. In this
case, higher the count, finer the yarn.
This system is generally used for cotton, woolen, worsted Etc.
Where, N = Yarn numbering system, L = Sample length, W = Sample weight, w = unit
weight, l = unit weight.
Example: If the weight of 500 meters of yarn in 100 grams, calculate the yarn count in
English system.
Solution:
Where, w = 453.60 gms & l = 840 Yds (Fixed)
e
L×w 5000×1Ibs
N =
W×l 100×840Yds
5000 453.60
29.527 30'
100 840 0.9144
S


  
 
e
L×w
Indirect, N =
W×l

22. Direct System:
It has been defined as the number of units of weight per unit length of a yarn. In this
case, higher the count, coarser the yarn.
This system is generally used for Silk, Nylon, and Jute Etc.
Where, Tex = Yarn numbering system, L = Sample length, W = Sample weight, w =
unit weight, l = unit weight.
Example: If the weight of 500 meters of yarn in 100 grams, calculate the yarn count in
Tex system.
Solution:
Where, l = 1000m & w = 1 gms
W×l 100×1km
Direct, Tex=
L×w 5000×1gm
100 1000
20
5000 1


 

W×l
Direct, Tex=
L×w

23. Conversion of Count From one Count to Another :
590.50
N =
Tex
e

25. Fabric Design & Structure:
Fabric Design & Fabric Structure are related to each other. As we know
woven fabric is produced by interlacement of warp & weft yarn. This
interlacement of yarn is done by following a pattern, which gives the
fabric a particular design.
On the other hand, beside design of woven fabric few other parameters
like count of warp yarn & weft yarn, number of warp yarn per inch,
number of weft yarn per inch are responsible to establish structure of
woven fabric.
So we can say that the pattern of warp & weft yarn interlacement in
weaving and necessary parameters related to count & construction of
fabric can be defined as Fabric Design & Structure.

26. Fabric:
Fabric have been defined as a flexible planar
substance constructed from solutions, fibers, yarns or
fabrics in any combination. Textile fabrics can be
produced directly from webs of fibers by bonding,
fusing or interlocking to make non-woven fabrics &
felts but their physical properties tend to restrict their
potential end usage.

27. Process Flow Chart of Woven Fabric:
Yarn from spinning
Cone Winding
Warping
Sizing
Drawing
Weaving Loom
Grey Inspection
Folding/Rolling
Store

28. Yarn Cone Creeling Warping Warp Beam
Warp Beam Sizing Weavers Beam
Weavers Beam Drawing in Denting
Looming
Looming Weaving Grey fabric ready
for processing

29. Rapier Loom Air Jet Loom
Water Jet Loom Projectile Loom

30. Classification of fabric: Based on fabric type there are 4 types of fabric
–
1. Woven Fabric: Woven fabric have been defined as the
interlacing/interlacement of warp & weft yarn where minimum two
set of yarn is needed and warp yarn stay in vertical & parallel to the
selvedge.
2. Knitting fabric: Knitted fabric have been defined as the
interloping/interlocking/intermeshing of warp yarn where minimum
one set of yarn is needed.
3. Nonwoven fabric: Nonwoven fabric have been defined as the
mechanical/chemical/thermal bonding to make non woven fabric.
4. Braided fabric: Braided fabric have been defined as the
intertwining/diagonal/interlacement to make braided fabric where
minimum three set of yarn is needed.

31. Based on construction: There are three types of fabric
1. Plain
2. Twill
3. Sateen
Plain Weave:
Plain weave formed by yarns at right angles passing
alternately over and under each other. This is the simplest of
the three basic weaves & also least expensive to produce. No
technical face or back unless printed in plain weave fabric.

32. General Characteristics of Plain Weave :
Smallest design repeat is 2x2.
Only 2 held frames in loom can produce plain weave fabric.
Fabric structure is compact compare to other weaves.
Both sides appearance of fabric remain same in this weave.
Used in light weight, medium weight & heavy weight fabrics without
any problem.
This design can be expressed by 1up & 1down sign in technical field.
End Use: Dress, coat, suit, lace, sports, blankets, etc
Trade name of Plain fabric:
Poplin
Sheeting
Shirting
Voile
Cambric

33. Classification of Plain weave:
According to cover factor/Compactness:
Approximately square cloth:
Warp count = weft count
Thread density equal i.e EPI = PPI
Warp faces & weft faces are equal on both sides of the cloth
Warp crimp = weft crimp
Warp cover factor = weft cover factor
End use: Cheese cloth, surgical dressing, etc.
100×100
FabricSpecification= ×45"
30×30

34. Warp face cloth:
Prominence of warp yarn is more than that of weft yarn
Finer warp yarn but coarser weft yarn
Warp crimp > weft crimp
Production cost of this fabric is less than weft face cloth
End Use: Denim, Gabardine, etc
Weft face cloth:
Prominence of weft yarn is more than that of warp yarn
Finer weft yarn but coarser warp yarn
Weft crimp > warp crimp
Production cost of this fabric is high
End Use: Cotton firebrick, cotton casement cloth, etc
120×100
FabricSpecification= ×45"
60×30
100×120
FabricSpecification= ×45"
30×60

35. According to alternatively:
Balance cloth:
Warp count = weft count
EPI = PPI
Warp faces & weft faces are equal on both sides of the fabric
Unbalance cloth:
EPI = PPI
Warp count ≠ weft count
EPI ≠ PPI
Warp count = weft count
EPI ≠ PPI
Warp count ≠ weft count
100×100
FabricSpecification= ×45"
30×30
100×100
FabricSpecification= ×45"
30×60
120×100
Fabric Specification= ×45"
30×30
120×100
Fabric Specification= ×45"
60×30

36. Rib weave
Warp Rib Weft Rib
Regular Warp Rib Irregular Warp Rib Regular Weft Rib Irregular Weft Rib
According to derivatives of plain weaves:
Rib Weave:
Matt weaves
Regular Matt Fancy mattIrregular Matt Stitched Matt
Matt Weave:

37. Plain Weave Fabric Warp Rib Fabric(Oxford)
Weft Rib Fabric(Ottoman) Basket Weave Fabric(Boxy)

38. Twill Weave:
The order of interlacing which causes diagonal lines of warp & weft
floats to be formed in the fabric is called twill weave. Twill Fabric has
technical face side & back side. Technical face consist diagonal lines in
Twill fabric.
General Characteristics of Twill Weave:
Smallest design repeat is 3x3.
Only 3 held frame in loom can produce twill weave fabric.
Fabric structure is less compact compare to plain weave fabrics.
Diagonal lines appear on fabric surface.
Both sides appearance of fabric are different in twill weave.
Used in medium weight to heavy weight fabrics mainly for bottoms.
This design can be expressed by 2up 1down, 3up 1down, 2up 2 down
etc sign in technical field.
End Use: Garments, household cloth, industrial cloth, pillow covers,
screens, table cloth, upholstery, bed sheets, towels, pants, overcoats, etc.

39. Trade name of Twill fabric :
Jean
Gabardine
Denim
Drill
Classification of Twill weaves:
According to the direction of twill line :
S twill: Downward displacement to the interlacing point i.e. twill line is
produced by forwarding of each warp yarn to left side respect to each
weft yarn. The twill line of this fabric forwards to right to the left
Example: 3/1 S twill
X X X
X X X
X X X
X X X

40. Z twill: Upward displacement to the interlacing point i.e. twill line is
produced by forwarding of each warp yarn to right side respect to each
weft yarn. The twill line of this fabric forwards to left to the right.
Example: 3/1 Z twill
According to the face yarn:
Warp face twill
Weft face twill
Double face twill
According to the nature of twill line:
 Simple twill
 Expended twill
X X X
X X X
X X X
X X X

41. According to the derivatives of twill weaves:
Zigzag/pointed/waved twill
Herring bone twill
Diamond twill
Diaper twill
Broken twill
Rearranged twill
Stepped twill
Elongated twill
Shaded twill
Combined twill
Curved twill
Most popular twill weave derivatives are –
Herringbone Twill
Broken Twill
Diamond Design

42. Herring bone twill: This twill is produced by reversal of twill direction
at a suitable interval unlike zigzag twill & the changing of direction of
first warp/weft yarn’s floating condition is reversed of the previous yarn
& it is the combination of S & Z twill.
According to reversal to direction, two types of Herring bone twill –
Horizontal Herring bone twill:
Twill direction reverses upon the warp yarn on the principle of
herringbone bone.
No of warp yarn is double to the no. of weft yarn.
Basic continuous twill runs along warp.
Broken draft is found.
Horizontal stripe effect formed in the fabric.
Example: 3/1 Horizontal Herring bone
X X X X
X X X X
X X X X
X X X X

43. Vertical Herring bone twill:
Twill direction reverses upon the weft yarn on the principle of
herringbone bone.
No of weft yarn is double to the no. of warp yarn.
Basic twill runs along weft.
Straight draft is found.
In this fabric vertical stripe effect formed.
Example: 3/1 Vertical Herring bone
End Use: Suits, coats & ornamented fabric.
X
X
X
X X
X X X
X X X
X X X
X X X

44. Diamond Design:
It is the derivatives of the twill weave
Diamond design is found by the combination of horizontal & vertical zig-zag twill
No of both warp & weft threads are double than that of the base twill in the repeat
In this twill pointed draft is found
The design area is divided into 4 equal parts
It is divided into equal parts both horizontal & vertical axis
Example: 5/3 Diamond design
End Use: Towel, Bed cover, Table cloth, Pillow covers, etc
X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X

45. Broken Twill:
Broken twill is obtained by breaking the twill line of a regular twill
Broken twill is formed by dividing the continuous twill repeat in 2 or 3
or 4 sections
Broken twill can be made 3 either by warp way & weft way
 If the threads are divided in warp way direction, it will result a broken
draft
Example: 3/3 Broken Twill
End Use: Shirting, Suiting, Designed fabrics, etc
X X X
X X X
X X X
X X X
X X X
X X X

46. 2/1 S-Twill 2/2 Z- Twill
3/1 S-Twill 4/1 Satin S-Twill

47. Herringbone Twill Diamond Twill
Diaper Twill Broken Twill

48. Sateen Weave:
In Satin/Sateen weave each warp floats over four filling yarns and interlaces
with the 5th filling yarn with a progression of interlacing by two or three to the
right or the left. This designed fabric can be produced by simple loom. Fabric
technical face & back look significantly different.
General Characteristics:
Satin represents warp face fabric whereas Sateen represents weft face fabric.
This weave can be regular or irregular.
Regular weave has minimum repeat size of 5x5 & Irregular weave has 4x4.
Only 5 held frame in loom can produce regular satin/sateen weave fabric.
Fabric structure is less compact compare to plain and twill weave fabrics.
Diagonal lines appear on fabric surface but not as prominent as Twill weave.
Fabric surface feels smooth & lustrous as floats are long.
Used in medium weight to heavy weight fabrics mainly for bottoms, suits etc.
This design can be expressed by 4up 1down, 7up 1down, etc sign in technical
field.
End Use: Desks wear, curtain, decorative garments, upholstery, lace, coat,
suiting, ladies dress, etc

49. Sateen
Weft SateenWarp Sateen
Regular Irregular Regular Irregular
Classification of Sateen:

50. Calculation of Woven fabric weight:
Example: If the consumption of a fabric in below & length in 100 meter,
how we can calculate the fabric weight?
Solution :
There are two types of rule for fabric weight calculation. Please see the
blow –
110 90
59"
20 16



2 EPI×Crimp% PPI×Crimp%
1. OZ/Yd =( + )×0.69
Warp Count Weft Count
2 EPI×Crimp% PPI×Crimp%
2. Gm/m =( + )×23.25
Warp Count Weft Count

51. How will be deciding the grey Elongation of a fabric from a finish
construction?
Example:
Solution:
20×16+70D
Finished construction : ×56", where stretch 25%
128×60
f
g
EPI ×(1-Seath shrinkage)×(1-Weave take up)
EPI =
1+Stretch%
Where,Weave take up=Reed space to grey stretch128×(1-5%)×(1-4%)
=
Weave take up=3-4% & Steath shrinkage=4-5%1+25%
128×0.95
=
 
 
 
×0.96
93
1.25


52. Denim Fabric Process:
Denim fabric can be developed now a
days in two different techniques. These
are,
1.Slasher Dyeing Method
2.Rope Dyeing Method.

53. Leasing
Weavers Beam
Weaving
Inspection
Folding/Rolling
Yarn from Spinning
Creeling
Dyeing
Washing
Drying
Sizing
Drying
Process Flow path for Slasher Dyeing Process :

54. Process Flow path for Rope Dyeing Process:
Leasing
Weavers Beam
Weaving
Inspection
Yarn from Spinning
Rope finishing by Ball warping
Dyeing
Skying
Drying
Sizing
Drying
Canning
Direct Warping

55. Comparison between Rope & Slasher Dyeing:
SL No. Rope Dyeing Slasher Dyeing
1 Longer Process Shorter Process
2 High production Lee Production
3 Longer Inner size time Shorter Inner time
4 Longer Skying time Shorter Skying time
5 Best Indigo Dyeing Moderate Dyeing
6 Dyeing & Sizing different stage Dyeing & sizing one stage
7 More even Moderate

56. Bottoming:
Bottoming have been defined as sulphur dyeing is bottoming
& Indigo dyeing is topping.
Topping:
Topping have been defined as sulphur dyeing is topping &
Indigo dyeing is bottoming.
Bottoming & Topping:
Bottoming & Topping are related directly to sulphur dye
where dyeing combined with sulphur & Indigo.

57. Sulphur Dyeing
Washing
Indigo Dyeing
Washing
Oxidation
Washing
Indigo Dyeing
Washing
Sulphur Dyeing
Washing
Oxidation
Washing
Process Flow path for Bottoming: Process Flow path for Topping:

58. Oxidation of Dyed Yarn:
By skying of dyed yarn after each dip.
Normally skying time 60 to 90 second.
When yarn goes lighter to darker it means oxidation is complete.
Skying time does not make oxidation completely & that is why it is
preferable after skying oxidation by oxidizing agent.
Causes of Incomplete Oxidation:
Inadequate skying time.
Overcrowding of yarn the width of range.
Excess dyes pick up.
Low air movement.
High humidity.
Uneven dye pick up.
Imbalance chemical.
Less chemical oxidation or less washes off by water.

59. ∆E: ∆E is the color deference from standard to sample. Maximum value
of ∆E will be 1.
If ∆E ≤1 then result is OK
If ∆E ≥1 then result is not OK
Factor Related with ∆E:
∆L=+means lighter = Next to reduce the lighter.
∆L=-means Darker = Next to increase the lighter.
∆a=+means Redder = Next to reduce the redder.
∆a=-means Greener(Less red) = Next to increase the redder.
∆b=+means Yellowish = Next to reduce the yellow.
∆b=-means Bluish = Next to reduce the Blue.
+L
+b
+a-a
-b
-L

60. Relation among ∆L, ∆a & ∆b :
Calculation value of ∆E (V10101-1):
If value of ∆L=0.01, ∆a=-0.41 & ∆b=-0.43,then ∆E value-
2 2 2
ΔE= (ΔL) +(Δa) +(Δb)
2 2 2
2 2 2
ΔE= (ΔL) +(Δa) +(Δb)
= (0.01) +(-0.41) +(-0.43)
=0.56

61. Standard light source:
1.Day light, D-65, D-95
2.Shop light, TL-83, TL-84
3.A Light target
4.Cool White Flurscent, CWF
Note: Mainly we are using D-65 & CWF in textile sector.
Color: Color is the reflection of light. Higher the wave length, higher the
reflection.
Black = Reflection is very less
White = Reflection is very high
Violet = Minimum wave length
Red = Maximum wave length
Color Vision Factor: There are two types-
1.Human color vision factor
2.Computer color vision factor

62. Human color vision factor:
1.Sex – Male & Female
2.Height – Maximum, minimum & medium
3.Angle of viewing - 0º, 45º, 60º, 90º, 180º, 270º, 360º
4.Condition of viewing – Natural color, Grey color & Reflection color
5.Relative Humidity & Temperature – RH=65% & Temperature 21±1 º
6.Condition of eyes – Good or excellent
7.Sample size
Computer color vision Factor:
1.Equation – CMC method (Color measuring comity)
2.Observing angle - 0º, 45º, 60º, 90º, 180º, 270º, 360º
3.Measuring area – 30 mm or small size
4.Measurement – for plane 2 reading (0º, 90º) & for twill 4 reading (0º, 90º,
180º & 270º)
5.Sample size
6.Folding of sample
7.Fabric structure
8.Calibrations of machine

63. Metamerism : When two color objects look alike under one viewing condition
but look different under another viewing condition, we say that metamerism
taking.
Classification of metamerism : There are 5 types of metamerism –
Illumination metamerism : When the color of two space match under one
illumination but does not match in another, then it is called illumination
metamerism.
Observer metamerism : When the color of two space match under one
observer but does not match in another, then it is called observer metamerism.
Geometric metamerism : When the color of two space match under one set of
viewing condition, but does not match if we change the geometrics such as
illuminant & viewing, then it is called geometric metamerism.
Field size metamerism : When the color of two space match under one place
of visual distance viewing but does not match when change the visual distance
of field or distance of viewing, then it is called field size metamerism.
Instrumental metamerism : When the color of two space match under one set
of instrument but does not match under other set of instrument, then it is called
instrument metamerism.

65. Textile testing is a process by which different quality parameter of a
particular textile product can be tested in laboratory to ensure the
required quality of that finished goods. Mainly there are four objectives
of textile testing,
Ensuring quality conformance of product.
Checking quality of final products in terms of performance & safety.
Improving manufacturing process in a cost effective manner.
Ensuring customer satisfaction
There are different testing equipments available in texting laboratory by
which textile products can be tested. For testing of goods, there are
various methods available also. These are like ,
-AATCC Method(American Association of Textile Chemists &
Colorists)
-ASTM Method(American Society for Testing and Materials)
-ISO Method(International Organization for Standardization)

66. Testing Parameters of Woven fabric:
There are few physical and chemical parameters available for which woven fabrics are
tested in testing laboratory after processing.
Below all testing parameters are mentioned sequentially along with test methods:
Parameters Requirement
Fiber Content (ISO1833/5088) According to fabrication
Fabric Weight (ASTM D 3776) According to count, construction.
Fabric Shrinkage (AATCC 135, 3 washes) 0 to -4%
Distortion after washing (AATCC 179, 3 washes) 4%
Appearance after washing Satisfactory (Based on observation)
PH Value (ISO 3071) 4-7.5
Tensile Strength (ASTM D5034) Depends on fabric wt, 20-50lbs.
Tearing Strength (ASTM D1424) Depends on fabric wt, 1.5-3lbs.
Color Fastness to Crocking (AATCC 8) Dry>3.5, Wet>3.0
Color Fastness to Light (AATCC 16E 20 AFU) 3.5
Color Fastness to Washing (AATCC 61 IIA) Color Change>4, Color Stain>3
Color Fastness to Water (AATCC 107) Color Change>4, Color Stain>3
Color Fastness to Perspiration (AATCC 15) Color Change>4, Color Stain>3
Pilling Resistance [After 3 HW] (ASTM D3512, 30 min) 3.5
Stretch & Recovery [For Stretch Fabric only] (ASTM D3107) 15% Stretch, 8% Growth

67. Draft Recommendation:
Draft recommendation should be as minimum as possible-
Denier Draft
20D 2.8
44D 3.5
70D 3.8
140D 4

68. How to calculate Spandex from a fabric?
Solution:
Spandex in Yarn:
20 16+70D
Example=
128 60


5315
Weft Denier= =332.19 (Cotton Tex=590.50 9=5315)
16
70
Spandex in yarn= ×100%
Weft Denier×Draft
70
= ×100% (70D=3.50 Draft)
332.50×3.50
70
= ×100%=6
332.50×3.50
 
%

69. Spandex in Fabric:
Warp(EPI)+Weft(PPI)=128+60=188
60
In Weft(PPI)= 100% 31.91%
188
Weft(PPI)% Spandex in Yarn%
Spandex in Fabric=
100%
31.91% 6%
= 1.90% 2%
100%
 


 

70. Shrinkage test(AATCC-179/1):
Procedure:
At first we need to take 50 cm squire a fabric cutting.
Then need to over lock sewing this fabric.
After that need to do 3 wash under 60ºC for woven with or without
chemical.
Then relaxation for 2-3 hours.
Before wash-After wash
Warp Shrinkage= 100%
Before wash
50-48
= 100% 4%
50

 
Before wash-After wash
Weft Shrinkage= 100%
Before wash
50-47
= 100% 6%
50

 

71. Fabric PH Testing (ENISO-0371):
Procedure:
At first we need to take 2gm fabric & 100ml distill water.
Then need to keep this cutting sample & water in a Biker.
 Then agitated 2 hours
After that half hours relaxation then fabric PH calculation.

72. How you will test Stretch, Growth & Recovery?
Procedure of Stretch (ASTM-3107-03):
Take a sample 25 X 5 cm (Length = Spandex Direction).
Mount this saple in the machine.
Apply 4 pound (Ibs) load in bottom ends & keep is for 30 minutes.
Extended Length-Original Length
Stretchability Will be= 100%
Original Length
31-25 6
= 100% 100% 24%
25 25

   

73. Procedure of Growth (ASTM-3107-03):
1.After 30 minutes remove the sample from the machine.
2.Keep it relaxation for 30 minutes under temperature 21±2ºC & Relative
Humidity 65±2%.
Procedure of Recovery (ASTM-3107-03):
Relaxation Length-Original Length
Growth Will be= 100%
Original Length
26-25 1
= 100% 100% 4%
25 25

   
Extended Length-Relaxation Length
Recovery Will be= 100%
Extended Length Original Length
31-26 5
= 100% 100% 83%
31 25 6


   


74. Fastness of Dyed Goods:
The capacity of a dye on a textile material to resist (After dyeing) a load
or a destructive factor is referred to a fastness. The outstanding property
of a dyed textile material is the fastness of shade.
The following fastness are important for dyed goods:
•Color fastness to wash
•Color fastness to light
•Color fastness to rubbing (Dry +Wet)
•Color fastness to perspiration (Acidic & alkaline)
•Color fastness to acids
•Color fastness to chlorine
•Color fastness to alkaline
•Color fastness to sea water
•Color fastness to weather
•Color fastness to bleaching agents
•Etc.

75. Assessment of Fastness:
Numerical Rating
Light fastness in
Blue scale
Wash fastness in Grey
scale
1 Poor Poor/Little
2 Slight Moderate
3 Moderate Average
4 Fair Good
5 Good Excellent
6 Very Good
7 Excellent
8 Maximum

76. Color fastness to wash:
Color fastness to wash is very important for lap dip. There are varieties of testing procedure,
because –
1.Washing conditions may very from one country to another
2.The methods depend on the use of dyed goods
3.To evaluate repeated washing accelerated test methods are used.
Principle:
A specimen (Lab dip) in contact with specified adjacent fabric or fabric is laundered, rinsed
& dried. The specimen/composite sample is treated under appropriate condition in a
chemical bath for short time. The abrasive action is accomplished by the use of a liquor ratio
& an appropriate number of steel balls. The change in color of the specimen (Dyed sample)
& the staining of the adjacent fabric is assessed by recommended Grey scales (1-5).
Apparatus & Materials:
1.Wash wheel with a thermostatically controlled water bath & rating speed of (40±2) rmp
2.Stainless steel container (Capacity 55±50 ml)
3.Stainless steel ball (Dia=0.6 cm & weight=1 gm)
4.Multi fiber fabric (Acetate/Cotton/Nylon/Polyester/Acrylic/Wool)
5.Thermometer
6.Sewing machine
7.Dryer
8.Color matching cabinet
9.ISO Scales

77. Reagents:
1.Reference detergent
2.Sodium carbonate/Soda ash
3.Distilled Water (Grade – 3)
4.Etc
Test Specimen:
Cut a sample of dyed goods 10 X 4 cm & sew it with same size multifiber. This is the
composite test sample.
Test Procedure (ISO recommendation No. 1 – 5):
Composite sample is treated in a wash wheel for 30 minutes at (40 ±2) ºC with 5 g/l
standard soap.
10 X 4 cm
Specimen
Adjacent fabric
CottonAcetate Nylon Polyester Acrlic Wool
Steel Ball
Dia=0.6cm & wt=1gm
Multifibre fabric (ISO)

78. Evaluation: Compare the contrast between the treated & untreated
sample with grey scale for changing color of dyed sample & staining of
adjacent fabric in a color matching cabinet.
Reporting Format:
Test Description (Color fastness to wash (ISO-105-
CO3)
Result
(Grade)
Color change in shade staining in Acetate 4
Color change in shade staining in Cotton 4
Color change in shade staining in Nylon 4
Color change in shade staining in Polyester 5-Apr
Color change in shade staining in Acrylic 5-Apr
Color change in shade staining in Wool 4

79. Color fastness to light:
Principal: This test measures the resistance to fading of dyed textile
when exposed to day-light. Then test sample is exposed to light for a
certain time (24 hrs, 36 hrs, 48 hrs, 72 hrs…….) or by customer demand
& compare the change with original unexposed sample. The changes are
assessed by Blue scales (1 – 8).
Procedure:
The sample is cut & should be exposed (1/2 covered & ½ exposed)
together with standard dyed wool samples (1 – 8). The standard & the
specimen mounted in a frame. The composite sample must be protected
from rain.
Evaluation:
Evaluation is made numerically by European/American blue scale (1 –
8).

80. Color fastness to Rubbing:
Principal: This test is designed to determine the degree of color which may be
transferred from the surface of a colored fabric to a specific test cloth for rubbing (Dry
+ Wet).
Equipment:
1.Crock meter
2.Cotton rubbing cotton
3.Grey scale
4.Stop watch
5.Color matching cabinet.
Size of fabric: 14 X 5 cm two pieces of sample (One warp direction/Wale direction &
other weft/course direction).
Test procedure:
1.Lock the test specimen onto the base of the crock meter.
2.Using the spiral spring clip, set 5 X 5 cm of the white cotton fabric to the finger of the
crock meter.
3.Lower the covered finger on the test sample.
4.Turn hand crank at the rate of one turn per second (10 X 10 Sec).
5.Remove the white rubbing test cloth & evaluate with grey scale.
Evaluation:
Compare the contrast between the treated & untreated white rubbing cloth with grey
scale & rated 1 – 5.

81. Color fastness to Perspiration:
Principal: The garment which comes into contact with the body where
perspiration is heavy may suffer serious local discoloration. This test is
intended to determine the resistance of color of dyed textile to the action
of acidic & alkaline perspiration.
Equipment:
1.Perspiration tester
2.Oven, maintain at (37 ±2)ºC temperature
3.Multi fiber test fabric
4.Grey scale
5.Color matching chamber
6.Acidic & alkaline solution
7.Glass & acrylic plate
8.Weight
Sample size: 10 X 4 cm

82. Reagent:
Test Procedure:
Wet out the composite test sample in mentioned alkaline or acidic solution at room
temperature. M:L ratio 1:50 & leave for 30 minutes.
Pour off excess solution & place the composite sample between two glass plate or
acrylic plate under a pressure of 4.5 Kg & place in an oven for 4 hrs at (37 ±2)ºC
temperature.
Remove the specimen & hang to dry in warm air not exceeding 60ºC temperature.
Evaluation:
Evaluation is done by grey scale in a color matching cabinet & rated from 1 – 5.
Materials Alkaline Acidic
L-histadine mono hydrochloric hydrate (C6H4O2N3HCl.H2O 0.5 gm 0.5 gm
Sodium chloride (NaCl) 5 gm 5 gm
Disodium hydrogen ortho phosphate dihydrate (Na2HPO4.2H2O) 2.5 gm 2.2 gm
Distilled water 1000 CC 1000 CC
PH (Adjust with 0.1 N NaOH) PH=8 PH=5.5

83. Pilling: Pilling is a process of forming small angles of fibers.
ICI (Imperial Chemical Index) Pilling test for knit fabric:
Block Diagram:
•Sample : 5 X 5”
•Rubber tube : 6” long & 1.25” outer diameter
•Box size : 9 X 9 X 9”
•Box inside : 1/8” Cork
•Revolution : 60 rpm
•Time : 5 hrs
Working Procedure:
At first sample (5 x 5”) is taken & sewn it.
Then it placed on to rubber tube (6” long & 1.25” outer diameter X 0.125”
thick).
To cut ends are covered by tape.
Four tubes are placed into the box (X 9 X 9”).
Cork fabric (0.125”) is placed inside the surface of the box. Then box is
rotted
with 60 rpm for 5 hurs, which creases the pilling on the surface of the fabric.
After 1 hrs tumbling sample is compare with the standard fabric.
Then examined it visually.

84. Five Pilling rating are found:
Test found Grade
Become hairy but no pilling 1
Become hairy & slight pilling 2
Become hairy & moderate pilling 3
Become hairy & unacceptable pilling 4
Become hairy & external pilling 5

85. Strength: It is the resistance to deformation or breakage caused by application of force.
It is the most important properties of yarn & fabric.
Tensile strength testing:
One of the most common testing methods tensile testing is used to determine the
behavior of a sample while an axial stretching load is applied. This types of tests may
be performed under ambient or controlled eating or cooling conditions to determine the
tensile properties of a textile material. Tensile testing is commonly used to determine
the maximum load. Tensile testing may be based on a load value or elongation value.
Common tensile testing results include:
•Maximum load
•Deflection of maximum load
•Work at maximum load
•Stiffness
•Load at break
•Deflection at break
•Work at break
•Stress
•Strain

86. Manual fabric strength tester:
Block diagram:
•Switch On & Off
•Vertical stand
•Dial
•Fixed clamp
•Movable claim
•Fabric
Working Procedure:
•At first fabric is set between the clamps where upper clamp is fixed &
lower clamp is movable.
•Then swatch is on & movable clamp moves downwards.
•So that fabric is broken due to tension on the fabric.
•The strength is measured from the dial of the tester.
•After measuring the strength switch is green to off.

87. Tear Strength tester:
The tearing strength tester consists of a sector pendulum pivoted on anti-
friction ball bearings on a vertical bracket fixed on a rigid metallic base.
The test specimen in shape of a rectangular piece is held between two
clamps, one of which is mounted on the pendulum & other is mounted
on the fixed bracket.
The clamps are mounted in such a manner that their holding faces are
aligned with each other when the pendulum is locked in its raised
position.
The tearing strength is indicated on a scale fitted on the pendulum
against a low friction pointer pivoted on the axis of the pendulum.

88. Fabric Dimension:
1.Length/Width measurement
2.Weight /unit length measurement
3.Fabric thickness measurement
4.Fabric inspection measurement

89. Fabric inspection:
This system is mostly used in textile industry around the globe now. This
test method describes a procedure to establish a numerical designation
for grading of fabrics from a visual inspection.
This system provides a means of defining defects according to their
severity by assigning demerit point values. All type of fabrics whether
grey or finished, can be graded by this system.
Fabric inspection method :
1. 4 – point system
2.10 – point system

90. 4 – Point system (Used for Knit fabric):
For Example: For 100 yds inspection
**Total No. of point must be less than 40 per 100 Sq yds.
Defect Length Points
Up to 3" 1
3" to 6" 2
6 to 9" 3
Above 9" 4
Defect Length Points No. od Faults No. of Points
Up to 3" 1 10 10 X 1=10
3" to 6" 2 5 5 X 2=10
6 to 9" 3 2 2 X 3=6
Above 9" 4 0 0 X 4=0
Total=26

91. 10 – Point system (Used for Woven fabric):
For export quality material:
Good: Total point <20 point per 100 Sq meter
Average: Total point 20 to 30 point per 100 Sq meters
Poor: Total point >30 point per 100 Sq meter
Warp Way Points Weft Way
<1" 1 <1"
1" to <5" 3 1" to <5"
5" to <10" 5 5" to <half width
>10" 10 >half width

92. Weight/Unit area measurement:
Instrument: Quadrant Balance
Block Diagram:
1.Quadrant scale
2.Stand
3.Pointer
4.Template
5.Sample holder
6.Base
Working Procedure:
At first sample (2” long X 1” width) is measured by using template &
it is placed on the sample holder.
The weight is then measured directly from the quadrant scale on which
pointed fixed according to the sample.
Result should be taken Ibs/100 Sq yds.

93. GSM measurement for knit & woven fabric:
Instrument: GSM cutter or Rounded cutter
Block Diagram:
1.Table
2.Rubber pad
3.Fabric
4.Head
5.Turning wheel
6.Cutting Blade
Working Procedure:
At first a rubber pad is placed on the table
Then the fabric placed over the rubber pad
Then the round cutter is placed on the fabric & cut the fabric
The cut sample should be circular
The sample area should be 100 cm² (Standard)
Then the weight (in gms) of 100 cm² of samples is measured by
electrical balance
At last GSM is measured (wt in gms/100 cm²X100=GSM)

94. Yarn/Weaving Fault Processing Fault
Colored Yarn Side to side shade variation
Knots End to end shade variation
Slubs Resist Spots
Thick/Thin Places Uneven Streaks
Broken Ends Dye Stains
Broken Pattern Uneven Dyeing/Running shading
Double End Patchy Dyeing Effect
Hole, Cut or Tear
Missing Ends
Missing Picks
Hanging Loose Threads
Oil or Stain Mark
Oily Ends/Picks
Contamination
Color spot
Hairiness
Horizontal line
Side loose
List of Fabric Defects in Woven Fabric:
A fabric defect is any abnormality in the fabric that hinders it’s acceptability by the consumer.
Woven fabric defects can be raised from yarn defects, weaving defects & finally processing
defects.
Most common defects of woven fabrics are as below –

95. Colored Yarn:
Presence of colored foreign matter in the fabric, which
comes from yarn.
Causes: Cotton fibers getting contaminated during Ginning
process with leaves, immature fiber and yellow fiber.
Remedies: Colored portion is removed from the yarn with
a pucker.
Knots:
Knot is a fastening made by tying together ends of yarn
when broken.
Causes: Thread breaks during process of winding, warping,
Sizing or weaving.
Remedies: Non mend able. Fabric portion carrying knots
should be avoided during cutting or rejected with cut panels.

96. Slub:
Slub is a bunch of yarn having less twist or no twist and has
a wider diameter compare to normal spun yarn
Causes: Improper Carding/Combing & wrong drafting in
spinning Process.
Remedies: Slub should be cut with the clipper from both
ends.
Broken Ends woven in a bunch:
This defect is caused by a bunch of broken ends woven into
fabric.
Causes: Failure of weaver in attending the warp breaks
properly.
Remedies: Broken ends woven in a bunch can be removed
by using a pucker and the resulting loose ends should be cut
with clipper. As a result, a bare patch occurs and combing in
both directions with a metallic comb can fill this up.

97. Double End:
When two or more ends get woven as one. This defect is
characterized by a thick bar running parallel to the warp.
Causes: Wrong drawing, taking more ends through a held
eye.
Remedies: Can be corrected by pulling out the extra end with
help of needle. A bare patch is formed & can be filled by
combing in both direction with help of metallic comb.
Float:
Float is the improper interlacement of warp & weft threads
over a Certain area.
Causes: Improper sizing that causes ends stick together. It
can be from broken end also if entangled with other ends.
Remedies: Only minor floats can be rectified. The floating
threads are cut with a clipper. Combing in both direction
rectifies the patch.

98. Gout
This is a foreign matter accidentally woven into the fabric.
Causes: Improper loom cleaning. Dusty/Dirty weaving
environment.
Remedies: Extra foreign matter can be pulled out with a
pucker. Combing in both direction rectifies the resultant patch.
Hole, Cut, Tear:
This is self explanatory which defines any small/large hole or
cut area
or tear position in the fabric.
Causes: Sharp edges on cloth roll, hard substances between
layer of fabric in cloth roll. Coarse template used for fine
fabrics. This can be raised during removal of hard particles
woven in the cloth.
Remedies: Not possible to do mending. Need to reject from
fabrics or from cut panels.

99. Missing Ends:
The fabric is characterized by a gap, parallel to the warp. The
number of ends missing may be one or more.
Causes: Loom not equipped with warp stop motion. Drop wires
not working properly which cause stop machine when warp
breaks. Electric bars are dirty or defected that’s why machine not
stopped When drop wire dropped over it.
Remedies: When there are only two adjacent ends missing, the
fault can be rectified by combing in both directions using a
metallic comb. More than 2 ends will be difficult to cover. Fabric
portion needs to be avoided or rejected based on it’s availability
along width of fabric
Missing Picks:
A narrow streak running parallel with weft threads caused due to
absence of weft yarn.
Causes: Faulty let off & take up motion in loom. May be due to
faulty Weft stop motion. If fell of cloth not adjusted after loom
stoppage.
Remedies: When only 2 pick missing then can be rectified by
combing with metallic comb. More than that not possible & need
to be rejected.

100. Hanged/Untrimmed Loose Threads:
Any hanging threads on the face of the fabrics.
Causes: Tail ends are not trimmed after piecing up.
Remedies: This defect can be easily rectifies by cutting all
hanged yarn by the clipper during grey mending.
Weft Bar:
An unwanted bar, running across the full width of a piece which
differs in appearance from the adjacent normal fabric.
Causes: Different in count, twist, color, luster. Faulty let off
and take up motion of loom
Remedies: Not possible to do mending.

101. Oil Ends Oil Weft
Oil Spots Reed Mark

103. There are few nominated fabric suppliers available in Bangladesh by VF Asia. Names
are given below -
Shell Fabric:
Envoy Textiles Ltd
Partex Denim Ltd
Nassa Taiepei Denim Ltd
Mahmud Denim Ltd
Sim Textiles
Opex Textiles
South China Bleaching & Dyeing Factory Ltd.
Sinha Textile Group.
Hamid Fabrics Ltd.
Paramount Textiles Ltd.
Thermax Yarn Dyed Fabric Mills Ltd.
Pocketing Fabric
 Litun Fabrics Ltd
 Ridwan Textiles Ltd
 Epic Textiles

104. There are few nominated fabric suppliers available in Pakistan by VF
Asia. Names are given below -
Shell Fabric:
Kassim Textiles Ltd
ADM Fabrics
Artistic Milliners Denim Ltd
Soorty Denim Ltd
Naveena Textiles Ltd
Siddiqsions Textiles Ltd
Kohinoor Textiles Mill Ltd
Master Textile Ltd
Sarena Fabrics Ltd.

105. There are few nominated fabric suppliers available in India by VF Asia.
Names are given below -
Shell Fabric:
Arvind Textiles Ltd
Mafatlal Fabrics Ltd
Suryalakshmi Denim Ltd
KG-Denim Ltd
Raymond Denim Ltd
BhaskarTextiles Ltd
Nahar Textiles Ltd
Vardhaman Textiles Mill Ltd
Besides some other nominated fabric suppliers available in Thailand,
Serilonka, Indonasia.

106. Mill Week:
In mill week mill submits their new collections based on current market trend.
Yearly there are two mills weeks, one is on in each June for Fall/Holiday season
& another is in each Jan for Spring/Summer season.
Wash Range:
The selected fabrics in mill weeks input in Fabric Code Generate System
(FCGS) as well as SBU wise Fabric chart with lab test result. For any
modification of color or new color development on a particular fabric item also
done in this stage. Mills submit the selected fabrics sample yardages to BDC to
do wash range & submit to US & HK. BDC is responsible for all non china
mills.
Proto Sampling:
From the submitted wash range US team short listed the fabrics for coming up
season & request for proto which are consider highly potential for coming up
seasons bulk fabric orders.

107. Fabric Booking:
Fabric booking is released by BDC Merchandiser team to Fabric team
for proto, Pre-line, F&F and bulk standard sample purpose & fabric team
book this sample to Mill. In this sample stage if we get any fabric issue,
we updated all parties. From fabric booking date we need to in-house
within 15 working days for oversees Mill & 7 working day for
Bangladeshi Mill.
Fabric Checking:
After getting each sample yardage for proto we need to check with
master roll, then need to approved swatch.
Lab Test:
Merchandising team give proto wash leg to Fabric team for test purpose
and fabric team send this wash leg to BKK Lab along with pretest
number. If this test result is failed in any parameter then liability of fabric
team.

108. Update Fabric Price:
We need to update fabric price & cut-table with each month because
validity of fabric price is only one month.
Substitute Wash Range :
We are doing lot of substitute fabric from different mill & need to do
wash range with original fabric and send to US for approval. In the
meantime need to update all details in our system & fabric chart as well
as test result.