Sewing thread properties & their effects on seam

KHULNA UNIVERSITY OF ENGINEERING &
TECHNOLOGY
PRESENTATION TOPIC:
SEWING THREAD PROPERTIES & THEIR EFFECTS ON SEAM
Nazmul Shuvo
2K13 Batch
Dept. of Textile Engineering, KUET.

SEWING THREAD
• Sewing thread is a smooth, evenly spun, hard twisted ply yarn,
thread by a special finishing process to make it resistance to
stresses in its passage through the eye of a needle and through
the material involved in seaming and stitching operation. [1]
[1] https://www.slideshare.net/roopbalaarya/sewing-thread-and-its-types
© Nazmul Shuvo 2

SEWING THREAD
© Nazmul Shuvo 3

PROPERTIES OF SEWING THREADS
Tensile
strength
Tenacity
Loop
strength
Loop
strength ratio
Minimum
loop strength
Elongation at
break
Stress strain
curve
Elasticity
SEWING THREAD
© Nazmul Shuvo 4

TYPES OF SEWING THREAD
Polyester
corespun
thread
Spun polyester
thread
Staple spun
cotton thread
Textured
polyester thread
Polyester cotton
corespun thread
Trilobal
polyester thread
SEWING THREAD
© Nazmul Shuvo 5

1.POLYESTER CORESPUN THREAD [1]
This type of thread is produced by spinning staple polyester
fibre around a core of high tenacity continuous filament
polyester in yarn-spinning operation. Two or more of these
composite yarns are then twisted together to give the
necessary size and tensile strength.
e.g. Epic(Coats).
Uses: Mainly used in topstitching of shirts blouses, trousers,
sportswear , jeans & work clothes.
SEWING THREAD
[1] https://www.slideshare.net/2008000400034/sewing-thread
© Nazmul Shuvo 6

Key Characteristics: [1]
 Exceptionally strong.
 The continuous filament core
 Having high tenacity
 It is resistance to abrasion
 Fine threads can be used for delicate fabric without
compromising on strength, thereby avoiding problems like
seam pucker.
SEWING THREAD
© Nazmul Shuvo 7

2.SPUN POLYESTER THREAD [1]
Staple polyester fibres are spun into polyester yarn. Then two or more of
spun polyester yarns are twisted together to produce spun polyester thread.
e.g. Astra (Coats)
Key Characteristics:
- High tenacity of polyester ensures greater strength and thereby high
abrasion resistance.
- Very least amount of shrinkage (less than 1%) compared to cotton thread.
Uses:
Mainly for overedging. Also used for general seaming of shirts, trousers,
knitwear, jackets, blouses etc.
SEWING THREAD
© Nazmul Shuvo 8

3.STAPLE SPUN COTTON THREAD [1]
Normally long staple cotton fibres are spun into cotton yarn. Then two or more
ply of spun cotton yarn are twisted together to produce spun cotton thread.
Key Characteristics:
- 100% cotton thread have relatively low strength and elongation compared to
those in synthetic thread , therefore they need relatively light sewing tension
and high stitch densities.
- Very high amount of shrinkage compared to synthetic thread.
SEWING THREAD
https://www.slideshare.net/2008000400034/sewing-thread
© Nazmul Shuvo 9

STAPLE SPUN COTTON THREAD [1]
Key characteristics:
During sewing , cotton thread is not damaged at high temperature generated by
needle.
- 100% cotton thread is mercerized (treatment with caustic solution under
tension) to provide greater luster and higher strength.
Uses: Mainly used in sewing cotton garments that are to be post dyed.
SEWING THREAD
© Nazmul Shuvo 10

4.TEXTURED POLYESTER THREAD [1]
- Made from textured continuous polyester filament.
(Note- texturing means modification by applying crimp to the filament) .
e.g. Gramax (Coats).
Key features:
- Provides high softness and comfort.
- High extensibility and seam strength enhance higher seam security.
Uses:
Mainly used in “next to the skin” seams for high softness .e.g. underware,
swimwear, babywear etc.
Also widely used in overlocking and covering stitches for high extensibility
and seam security.
SEWING THREAD
© Nazmul Shuvo 11

5.POLYESTER COTTON CORESPUN THREAD [1]
- Made of polyester filament in the core and staple cotton fibre which wraps polyester filament.
Two or three plies of this yarn are twisted together to make thread.
e.g. dual duty (Coats).
Key features:
- This thread has been developed to improve the properties cotton and to get the opportunities
of both cotton and polyester fibre.
- Very low shrinkage, good strength and cotton core protects poly core from needle heat and
high ironing temperature.
Uses:
fine cotton denim shirts , outdoor wear etc.
SEWING THREAD
© Nazmul Shuvo 12

6.TRILOBAL POLYESTER THREAD [1]
- Newly developed polyester fibre to improve the dullness of usual polyester fibre.
- Trilobal poly is a multiple filament, twisted, high-sheen continuous fiber thread. It has
the bright appearance of rayon or silk. Triangular shaped fibers reflect more light and
give an attractive sparkle to textiles.
Uses:
Embroidery for garment.
SEWING THREAD
© Nazmul Shuvo 13

SEAM
• The line along which a number of layers of fabrics are joined is called the
seam
• It can be created by sewing of fabrics or by joining of fabrics in any other
alternative way (Welding, Fusing, Moulding, Adhesive)
• The seam which is created by sewing of fabrics, known as stitched seam
© Nazmul Shuvo 14

SEAM CLASS
Superimposed
seam
Lapped seam Bound seam Flat seam
Ornamental seam Applied seamEdge Neatening seam Others
http://www.coatsindustrial.com/en/information-hub/apparel-expertise/seam-types
© Nazmul Shuvo 15

CHARACTERISTICS
Seam
strength
Elasticity Durability
Security Comfort
© Nazmul Shuvo 16

Seam
Properties
Seam
Performance
Seam
Strength
Seam
Elasticity
Durability Security Comfort
Seam
Appearance
SEAM PROPERTIES
© Nazmul Shuvo 17

Sewing thread is one of the most important factors.
Determines-
SEWING THREAD EFFECT ON
SEAM
Seam
strength
Seam
elasticity
Durability Comfort
© Nazmul Shuvo 18

1.1 Seam appearance
Hairiness of sewing thread is important to decide seam appearance.
The shrinkage potential of the thread.
SEAM
© Nazmul Shuvo 19

1.2 Seam failure
The failure due to thread breakage
1.3 Seam breakage
The failure due to the slippage of cloth yarns at right angle
to the seam.
SEAM
© Nazmul Shuvo 20

1.4 Seam Puckering:
Evaluated immediately after the sewing process or shortly after it.
Relevant to sewing thread which undergo different loads,
stretched, flexed and otherwise deformed during sewing process.
Deformation of threads may crease seam which known as ‘Seam
puckering’.
SEAM
© Nazmul Shuvo 21

Seam pucker Photographic seam puckering
SEAM
© Nazmul Shuvo 22

2.1 Effect of thread type on seam
strength and seam opening [1]
Affects the seam strength.
Does not affect the seam opening.
© Nazmul Shuvo
SEAM
Fig-1: Seam strength for different thread structure
23

Thread breaking tenacity [1]
• Multifilament thread structure-highest seam strength.
• Staple thread structure-minimum seam strength.
Seam slippage [1]
• Core-spun thread-maximum resistance against the seam
opening.
© Nazmul Shuvo
SEAM
24

No significant difference between the values of seam strength.
Only for 635 twists/m thread- higher seam strength.
So, twist does not influence seam properties too much.
SEAM
Fig-2: Seam strength for different twist
© Nazmul Shuvo 25

2.3 Ply number on seam strength and seam
opening [1]
Affects the seam strength.
Does not affect the seam opening.
A significant difference between 2 and 3 plied
threads.
3 plied thread- higher seam strength.
© Nazmul Shuvo
SEAM
Fig-3: Seam strength for different ply numbers
26

TENSILE STRENGTH: [1]
• If an external force is applied to a material, it is balanced by internal
forces developed in the molecular structure of the material
• The straight strength and elongation of sewing thread must be
adequate for good sewing performance as well as good seam
Strength
• The loop strength of a thread contributes directly to the stitch
strength and hence to the seam strength.
SEAM
[1] http://www.ptj.com.pk/Web-2010/01-10/Jan-2010-PDF/Sumit-Manda.pdf

FRICTIONAL PROPERTIES [1]
• The frictional forces are developed in the sewing thread are mostly due to
the friction between the fabrics and machine parts.
• Friction must not be too high , which causes the thread breakage, and not
too low, which causes loss of thread control.
• Although coarse and medium fine yarns showed a more hairy
appearance, resulting in poor seam appearance after friction.
SEAM
© Nazmul Shuvo 28

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY [1]
• Both dry and wet dimensional stability are important for seam quality.
• Heat often causes of burn marks on natural fibres and it causes synthetic
fibre to soften or melt, leaving a weakened seam or a melted residue on
the fabric surface.
• In wet condition cotton sewing thread increases in diameter and shrink in
length is the cause of seam puckering in sensitive fabric and ultimately
affect the seam appearance of fabric
SEAM
© Nazmul Shuvo 29

BENDING PROPERTIES [1]
• The flexibility of a fibre depends on its shape, its modulus, its density and fibre
is the basic raw material in yarn manufacturing
• Thus all the thread must be flexible to ensure it passes through the sewing
machine and imparted into the seam as smoothly as possible
• Soft thread whose bending rigidity is low is the causes of low seam puckering.
SEAM
© Nazmul Shuvo 30

SPUN POLYESTER
(CHAMPION THREAD COMPANY)
Features:
• It is provides a uniform construction.
• Highly resistant to UV light.
• Resistant to chemical degradation.
• It provides dependable sewing performance including high speed
& critical sewing condition.
© Nazmul Shuvo 31

SPUN POLYESTER
Features:
• Proprietarily and superior lubrication translates into excellent sewing
performance
• Extensive color pallet kept in stock for immediate delivery
• Resistant to sunlight and chemical degradation
• Certified to Öko-Tex Standard
• Strong uniform construction
• Excellent seam strength.
• Color fastness properties are very good© Nazmul Shuvo 32

SPUN POLYESTER
(HUBEI TRITRUST IMPORT AND EXPORT
CO. LTD.)
Featurs:
• High Tenacity
• Low Shrinkage
• Chemical Resistance
• High Temperature Resistant
• Abrasion Resistance
• Pattern: Raw White
• Count: 30s/2
• Spun Polyester: Sewing Thread
• Trademark: HUBEI TRITRUST
• HS Code: 5509220010
© Nazmul Shuvo 34

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