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TECHNICAL
TEXTILE
&
NON-WOVENS
www.textilevaluechain.com
TE TILEX
VALUE CHAIN
May 2018 Volume 6 Issue 5
Registered with Registrar of Newspapers under | RNI NO: MAHENG/2012/43707
Postal Registration No. MNE/346/2018-20 published on 5th of every month,
TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN posted at Mumbai, Patrika Channel Sorting Office,Pantnagar, Ghatkopar-400075,
posting date 12/13 of month | Pages 56
Market Report :
Global Textile Pricing Trend,
Cotton Report ,Fabric Report
Brand Focus :
Lenzing / Tencel
Sustainable Fibre :
Processing of Ingeo Fibre in Textile industry
College Focus :
NMIMS, Shirpur
Few Event Reports

www.textilevaluechain.com2 May 2018

3www.textilevaluechain.comMay 2018
https://m.indiamart.com/neelkanthfabric/

TEMPLE RINGS/ROLLERS
YEARS
India's
Leading
Manufacturer
Exporter of
Picanol/Dornier/Vamatex/Sulzer/SometGRIPPERS RAPIER TAPES Picanol/Dornier/Vamatex/Sulzer/Somet
Torrey Twister
TEMPLES

51www.textilevaluechain.comMarch 2018
DN Associates represent in India the following Textile Machinery Accessories manufacturers
N.Schlumberger, France : Spinning preparatory machines for
Spun and filament LONG fibres (Website:www.nsc-schlumberger.com)
ANDRITZ Asselin Thibeau, France : Complete Nonwoven Lines : Drylaid-
Needlepunched, Hydroentangled and others, Wetlaid, Spunlaid and special machines
for chemical/hydro finishing (Website:www.andritz.com/nonwoven)
Laroche SA, France: Opening and Blending Lines, Textile waste recycling Lines and
“Airlay” Nonwoven Lines (Website: www.laroche.fr)
LACOM GmbH, Germany : Hotmelt Laminating and Coating Systems – Multi Purpose,
Multi Roller, Gravure Roller and Slot Die for complete range of Technical Textiles
(Website:www.lacom-online.de)
Schott Meissner, Germany : Ovens, Dryers, Heat Recovery Systems,
Heating/cooling calenders, Wet/Dry cooling systems, Cutters, accumulators,
Winders, Palletisers and Bonding systems (Website: www.schott-meissner.de)
Mariplast Spa, Italy : All type of Yarn Carriers for spun and filament yarns including
dye tubes for filament/long fibre yarns (Website: www.mariplast.com)
MORCHEM S.A.U., Spain : PUR Hotmelt Adhesives for Technical Textiles, Solvent
Based, Water Based adhesives, cleaners and primers
https://www.morchem.com/markets-and-solutions/textile-lamination/
Valvan Baling Systems, Belgium : Baling and Bump forming machines for spun fibres
and textiles waste recycling lines (Website:www.valvan.com)
C + L Textilmaschinen GmbH, Germany : Reeling (Yarn Hank Forming) Machines,
steaming, Bulking and Banding Machines for yarns (for Western and Southern India)
(Website:www.croon-lucke.com)
Schmauser Precision GmbH, Germany : Pin Strips, Faller Bars, Disposable Faller Bars
for Intersecting Gills and Chain Gills. Top Combs for Combing Machines in long fibre
Spinning Preparatory Lines (website: www.schmauser.com)
Groz-Beckert Carding Belgium NV, Belgium : Clothing for Cards and Cylinders used in
processing of long fibres, nonwovens and waste recycling
(website:www.groz-beckert.com)
FARE' S.p.A., Italy : Complete Lines for Spunbond / Meltblown nonwoven products
/complete line to produce all type of fibers including mono and bicomponent
including PET and PET fibers. Machines for producing Tapes and Rafia
(website www.farespa.com)
Contact : DN Associates E-mail : info@dnassociates.co.in Website: www.dnassociates.co.in
H.O.:
406, “Kaveri” Jagannath Mandir Marg, Opp. Holiday Inn, Near Sakinaka Metro Station, Mumbai–400 072
Contact Person : Mr. Hemant Dantkale Mobile : 98201 06018 Phone No.: 022-28516018
E-mail : hdantkale@dnassociates.co.in
B-310, Universal Meadows, Plot No. 27, New Sneh Nagar, Wardha Road, Nagpur – 440 015
Regd.Office:
Contact Person : Mr. Yogesh Nawandar Mobile : 98901 53766 Phone No. :0712-2289662
E-mail : ynawandar@dnassociates.co.in
Branch Office at Coimbatore

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Suryatech Syndicate

MAY 2018 ISSUE
CONTENT
COVER STORY
13- Geosynthetic / Geo Textiles By Govind Kevalramani
14- Wipes Industry Associations
15- Influence Of Fibre Type On Nonwoven Reinforced Composites
By Scientist Of DKTE College
18- Natural And Sustainable Raw Materials For Sani¬tary Napkin
By Scientist Of DKTE College
21- Project Concept Profile On A MSME Greenfield Technical
Textile Project By Munish Tyagi
22- Construction Of A Reinforced Soil Wall By StrataGrid
MARKET REPORT
23- Fibre and Yarn Export Doubles in March
24- Global Textile Pricing Trend in April
26- Fabric Market Report
28- Cotton Report
29- Surat Report
BRAND FOCUS
27- Lenzing’s Tencel
SUSTAINABLE FIBRE
30- Processing Of Ingeo Fibre In Textile Industries
By Dr. N.N. Mahapatra
COLLEGE FOCUS
32- NMIMS , Shirur
SHOW REPORT
37- Fashion Kids Conclave
38- Young Textile Entrepreneurs Meet
39- Textile 4.0 – Global And Indian Perspective
By Textile Association India
43- Screen Print India 2018
44- Industry 4.0: The Future Of Textile Manufacturing
And Marketing By VJTI
ASSOCIATION NEWS
42- The Special Textile Package Has Boosted Exports And In-
creased Investments Finds An Aepc Survey
42- Direct Recruitment Of Tripura Workers,
A Great Success – SIMA
45- SHOW CALENDAR
EDITORIAL TEAM
Ms. Jigna Shah : Editor and Publisher
Mr. Bhavesh Thakar : Chief Editor
Mrs. Namsha : Editorial Assistant
Mr. Anant A. Jogale : Graphic Designer
INDUSTRY
Mr. Devchand Chheda : City Editor - Vyapar ( Jan mabhumi Group)
Mr. Manohar Samuel : President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries
Dr. M. K. Talukdar : VP, Kusum gar Corporates
Mr. Shailendra Pandey : VP (Head – Sales and Marketing), Indian Rayon
Mr. Ajay Sharma : GM RSWM (LNJ Bhilwara Group)
Mr. Avinash Mayekar : Consulting Editor
Dr. N.N. Mahapatra : President, Colorant Ltd.
EDUCATION / RESEARCH
Mr. B.V. Doctor : HOD knitting, SASMIRA
Dr. Ela Dedhia : Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College
Dr. Mangesh D. Teli : Professor, Dean ICT
Dr. S.K. Chattopadhyay : Principal Scientist and Head MPD
Dr. Rajan Nachane : Retired Scientist, CIRCOT
All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of any of the content from
this issue is prohibited without explicit written permission of the publisher.
Every effort has been made to ensure and present factual and accurate
information. The views expressed in the articles published in this magazine
are that of the respective authors and not necessarily that of the publisher.
Textile Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely errors that might
occur or any steps taken based in the information provided herewith.
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Back Page: Raymond
Back Inside: Prosper Group
Front Inside: Raysil
Page 3: Neelkanth Packaging
Page 4: Sanjay Plastic
Page 5: SGS Innovation
Page 6: DN Associate
Page 7: Leeds
Page 8: Technotex 2018
Page 9: Strata
Page 10: Suryatech Syndicate
Page 47: Porometer
Page 48: YarnFab Expo
Page 49: Texocam
Page 50: SKBS
Page 51: DTG/VTG/MTG/TTG
Page 52: VMS Fibre + Kups
enterprise
Page 53: Gentex
Page 54: Texellence 2018
Advertiser Index

EDITORIAL
Ms. Jigna Shah
Editor and Publisher
INDIAN NON WOVEN FABRICS INDUSTRY GROWTH IS
SLOW BUT WITH STEADY POTENTIAL...
N
on woven fabrics are diverse in its application areas. One of its ap-
plications is the industrial usage and another application is in FMCG
/ Medical usage. Non Woven fabric considered to be “Use and Throw
Fabric”. It is basically an alternative of paper in few applications. Paper which
harms the sustainability due to usage of wood pulp, industry innovated Non
Woven fabrics made up of Cotton and Synthetic fibres like polyester and its
variants.
Cotton Non Woven used in Medical and FMCG applications which is medical-
ly safe and environment friendly fabric. Whereas Synthetic non woven made
up of polyester is non bio degradable and releases environmental hazard-
ous chemicals. These fabrics are used in various applications but main us-
age is in nonwoven shopping bags due to its low cost. This low cost fabrics
/ polypropylene fabrics are harmful to the environment. So to protect the
interest of well being of human, Maharashtra Government has banned the
usage of these bags. Polyester or synthetic fibres are used in our everyday
life from toothbrush to fancy designer clothes, from Automobile seat covers
to Aircraft / Road Construction, from Agriculture protection / control weeds
to Shopping bags. This touches a concern - is banning any product without
any alternative is the real solution???
Other side of Non Woven industry is its industrial application in which gov-
ernment deputed Indian Centre of Excellence (COE) for Technical Textiles.
DKTE, being COE for Nonwovens process application is having upgraded
technology equipped research house, incubation centre, pilot plant set up
which is competent. SITRA being Medical Textile Product centric COE, has de-
veloped various innovative products with good research lab and technology.
Both the COE are in learning process but taking firm steps for the betterment
and growth of the industry.
Non woven usage in India is still in its nascent stage as compare to few de-
veloped country, as its application area is still under usage, but has lot of
potential with consumer awareness and Government norms. We hope that
next decade will have different picture of this industry.
Wish you Happy and rejuvenating holiday season..!!!
But, alas, in most of us
good and bad are close-
ly woven as threads on
a loom, greater wisdom
than mine is needed for
the judging.
- Lloyd Alexander
”
“
EDITORIAL

Mr.Govind L. Kewalramani
Suryatech Syndicate
Needle punched nonwoven fabrics are characterized by
high porosity, elongation and energy absorption proper-
ties which make them ideal for a wide range of applica-
tions including subsurface, drainage, filtration, separa-
tion, and protection of liners.
Thermal bonding treatment imparts additional strength
to the fabric which is particularly beneficial to ground re-
inforcement and separation applications.
The ability of Light Weight nonwoven needle punched
Geotextiles is to restrict soil particles but allow water to
easily pass through making it perfect for filtration and/ or
separation applications.
Geotextile are manufactured with latest heat bonding
process and intensive needling ensures that the fibres are
fixed vertically resulting in an incredibly strong 3-dimen-
sionaly stable geotextile fabric which has apprance like
felt fabric No hazardous chemicals are used during pro-
duction imparting them as ecological friendly in nature.
The incineration of geotextile fabrics does not release any
harmful gases only carbondioxide and water are formed
which are both completely harmless
The most common nonwoven geotextiles is assembly of
synthetic fibres, put together, which are mechanically
thermally bonded fabric of polypropylene and polyester-
fibres.
The major characteristics of nonwoven fabrics are their
ability to withstand the climatic conditions. Provide re-
sistance to acid alkalis and microorganisms, UV rays, and
their reasonable elasticity enables them to withstand
contraction expansion in extreme climate. Geotextile
are resistant to all naturally occurring soil alkalis and ac-
ids and fungal attack and UV stabilized in polypropylene
geotextile fabrics.
The prime features, viz durability, ability to withstand the
climatic conditions and other factors make our water-
proofing protection suitable for varying purposes in the
construction and roads. It provides stress relief, water-
proofing and reduces reflective cracking functions in new
and existing paved roads.
Various functions defined for geotextiles are reinforce-
ment of walls/ sleep slopes, reinforcement of soft soil,
reinforcement of concrete, asphalt roads, Erosion control
and surfacial stabilization, confinement, impermeabliza-
tion, Protection, Separation, Drainage, Filtration
Various applications of geotextile fabrics are for road
construction, highway’s and highway embankments air-
port runways, shore protection in reclamation works, as-
phalt repaving of road, costal and riverbank revetment
systems, filtration, drainage, composites, protection for
geomembrance in landfills, Geobags manufacturing and
siol erosion control
Recreational facilities from geotestile fabrics such as and
race tracks to golf courses, fabrics are needed to keep lay-
ers of the structure separate and prevent contamination
of customized surface by facilities oftenly use foreconom-
ical reasons and for ease of installation permitting fast,
simple construction.
Geotextile fabric in roll form is ideally suited for roads,
landscaping applications and its permeability passage of
air enhances its performance for sepration, protection,
filtration, Drainage, Reinforement, stress relieving.
It is extensively used for construction of paved and un-
paved roads, parking area, Railways, concrete floors
Fabric filter cloth is used for forfilteration purpose for its
features as perfect finish, high permeability, Tear resist-
ance, Weight bearing capacity and easy installation.
Geotextile used for landscaping gardening suppresses
weeds without application of chemicals and allows easy
passage of water oxygen and nutrients while blocking the
weeds and is installed at the interface between soil and
decorative layers such as bark chipping, stone chippings,
pebbles or gravel.
Polyester Geotextile fabric provides excellent solution
GEOSYNTHETIC - GEOTEXTILES
COVER STORY
N
ONWOVEN GEEOTEXTILE FABRICS are needle punched to provide the excellent
strength and hydraulic characteristics necessary in ground stabilization, drainage
and erosion control applications. The high elongation feature of the fabrics pro-
motes a high survivability character.
Geotextiles enhance the performance and design life of granular layers by providing the
separation filtration function.
Geotextiles have superior properties such as Uniformity, High strength and elongation,
superior wearing and abrasion resistant properties, Unique hydraulic capability with no
delamination

for root shield because of its high tensile strength, high
puncture resistance and is capable of withstanding the
differential forces that can develop in clay soils. And can
be used to protect as control barrier to protect buildings,
walls, paths, access roads, drainage pipes and under-
ground cables from root damage.
Geotextile Fabric are suitable for protection of imper-
meable membranes land fill areas, side walls and caps,
reservoirs, balancing ponds, artificial lakes atc, to pre-
vent soil erosion from beneath rock sheathing and pre-
cast concrete revetments, sea shores, rivers and water
channels, lakes and reservoirs etc. and application areas
include Landfill Engineering, costal, Pipeline and Utility
protection, and waterways highways, landscape, Road
construction.
Paving Fabric used in paved unpaved roadways made
from polypropylene fibres that are heat bonded on one
side to form a strong, flexible and dimensionally stable
fabric structure. Resistance to chemicals and biological
organism normally found in soil and is stabilised against
degradation due to short term exposure to ultraviolet ra-
diation, fabrics have optimum bitumen retention capac-
ity, high tensile strengths and low elongation, allowing
them to distribute loads, reduce rutting and extend the
life of paved and unpaved roadways.
Geobags made from nonwoven geotextile of polyester
and polypropylene fibre are used for hydraulic structures,
protect revierbanks from soil erosion, scouring and flood
control.
Geobags can be placed on dry land and can also be in-
stalled in to water of any depth using polypropylene gabi-
ons, nonwoven geobags are good filtrations as the pore
size are small but the permeability is high, protects the
terrestrial habitat, good abrasive resistance, fabric stabil-
ity is more than in woven fabric, higher thickness which
ensure good puncture resistance, Easily available, Imple-
mented easily, easy to transport when empty, available
in various sizes to fit specific application of design and in-
stallation. Geobags activities have minimal effect on the
fish resources and in-turn also facilitate fishing activities.
The overall methodology involves a systematic and multi-
disciplinary approach.
Geosynthetic Geotextile are offering the best solution
for soil stabilization drainage marine, and environmental
protection.
COVER STORY
The recent news that the Australian Competition and
Consumer Commission (ACCC) fined Pental $700,000 for
falsely claiming its White King wipes were flushable was
welcomed by INDA and EDANA, the leading North Amer-
ican-based and European-based trade associations for
the nonwovens industry dedicated to advancing educa-
tion and technology in the wipes category.
INDA and EDANA have worked with leading industry and
wastewater experts to develop a comprehensive battery
of tests that ensure a wipe intended to be marketed as
“flushable” is compatible with the wastewater system af-
ter it is flushed.
“There are rigorous testing procedures for flushability
and Pental’s product did not pass those tests and should
have been clearly marked with a “Do Not Flush” symbol
per our Code of Practice for labeling,” said Dave Rousse,
president of INDA. “A thorough review of White King wipes
revealed that the product had not undergone flushability
claims testing, and recent industry testing has shown that
the product does not pass the stringent Edition 3 Flush-
ability Guidelines (GD3) of INDA and EDANA. This type of
behavior hurts responsible manufacturers because some
consumers and regulators will unfairly attribute those
failures to the entire category of flushable wipes.”
“Wipes that don’t pass GD3 testing should have a promi-
nent ‘Do Not Flush’ symbol and should not be flushed,”
said Pierre Wiertz, general manager of EDANA. “We want
consumers to be properly informed and confident that
products with a flushable claim have passed this rigor-
ous testing. That is why the flushable claim should only be
used on products that pass the GD3 guidelines. Compa-
nies that do not back their “flushable” claim with product
testing following the guidelines should be held account-
able.”
WIPES INDUSTRY ASSOCIATIONS SUPPORT $700,000 FINE OF PENTAL

COVER STORY
Abstract
Light but strong, the modern composite materials are.
Composites reinforced with nonwoven structures is an
unexplored, undiscovered sector. Selection of an appro-
priate matrix reinforced with suitable material results
into a new material to meet exact requirements of a par-
ticular application. Glass fibre is most extensively used as
a reinforced material in composites in different forms, viz.
staple fibres, filaments, glass nonwoven web etc. Major
drivers of increasing demand in various sectors are pri-
marily the advantages, such as non-corrosive nature, light
weight, good mechanical properties, easy process-ability,
etc., associated with fiberglass reinforced composites,
Polyester resin is most commonly used resin in fibre glass
composites. Present work aims to study feasibility of nee-
dle punched nonwovens as a reinforcement in polyester
resin, comparing composites reinforced with polyester
needle punched nonwoven and polypropylene needle
punched nonwoven with glass fibre web reinforced com-
posites.
Key Words: Glass fibre, Nonwoven, Polyester fibre, Poly-
propylene fibre, Polyester resin
Introduction
Material scientist’s define composites as a combination
of two or more materials to get the desired performance
from the final product [1]. The composite material result
into different characteristics from the individual constitu-
ent materials which also differ significantly in physical or
chemical properties. Composites are being made by hu-
man beings for many thousands of years. Mud bricks is
one of the early example. To acquire good mechanical
properties, mud and straw are mixed together to form
a composite, excellent building blocks. Concrete is an
example of ancient composite. Concrete composite is a
mixture of aggregate, cement and sand. Metal rods when
added into the concrete, increases its load bearing capac-
ity of composite. Resultant rod reinforced concrete com-
posite is called reinforced concrete.
Nonwoven fabrics are engineered fabrics, to suit for spe-
cific jobs having good balance between product use-life
and cost. No doubt, these engineered materials suits
the job, providing specific functions such as absorbency,
water repellence, softness, cushioning, thermal insula-
tion, acoustic insulation, filtration etc., but they cannot be
used directly in the specific applications of construction,
automotive etc., due to less dimensional stability and
comparatively lower strength, to suit these applications.
Nevertheless, nonwovens, unlike reinforcement in the
form of fibres, exhibit z-directional properties, because of
three dimensional structures. Owing to the contribution
towards z- axis, nonwovens as a reinforcement enhances
specific characteristics to composites. Thus, in making
composite structures, nonwovens are popularly used for
numerous applications, such as automotive parts, con-
struction sector, packing material etc., since they enjoy a
good blend of load bearing capacity, lightweight, and con-
trollability compared to conventional composite struc-
tures [2].
2.Experimental
Materials
A.Following materials were used as reinforcement : -
1.Polyester needle punched nonwoven : 200 GSM
2.Polypropylene needle punched nonwoven : 200 GSM
3. Glass fibre Web : 200 GSM
B Resins : Polyester
Methodology
Polyester needle punched nonwoven, polypropylene
needle punched nonwoven and glass web were used as
reinforced material and unsaturated polyester is used as
matrix to develop nonwoven reinforced composites. For
glass web, the direction showing higher tensile strength
was treated as cross direction to enable easy comparison
of type of fibre in reinforced structure.
Non-woven reinforced composites were made by hand
lay-up technique. Then the composites were cured at
room temperature for 90 minutes. Composite samples
were tested for tensile strength, flexural strength, hard-
ness, machinability, water absorption and moisture ab-
sorption. The results of these tests were analyzed sta-
tistically to understand effect of reinforced nonwovens,
manufactured using different fibres, on properties of
composites.
Results and Discussion
Nonwoven reinforced composites were tested for vari-
ous properties such as tensile strength, flexural strength,
hardness, machinability, water absorption and moisture
absorption.
3.1 Thickness: The distance between the top and bottom
surface, thickness
of composite, was
measured manually
using a vernier cali-
per.
There is significant
difference in the
thickness of three
INFLUENCE OF FIBRE TYPE ON NONWOVEN REINFORCED
COMPOSITES
Figure 1 Effect of Reinforced Material on Thickness

composite samples at 5% LOS, the reason being signifi-
cant difference in the thickness of reinforced material.
Since glass fibre has comparatively highest density, thick-
ness of glass web is lowest at same GSM.
3.2. Tensile Strength
The breaking strength of composite is tested on Instron
5565 with ASTM standard D3039 [3] in both machine as
well as in cross direction.
3.2.1 Cross Direction
The results show that there is significant difference in
the breaking strength of
composite in cross direction tested at 5% LOS.
Figure 2 Effect of Reinforced Material on Breaking Strength CD
Highest strength realization of glass web attributes to
non-bonding of glass fibres in raw stage. Compared to
polypropylene, polyester composite shows more strength
realization which denotes better compatibility of polyes-
ter resin with polyester fibres.
When compared, composite strength with three different
reinforcement, higher strength is observed in polypro-
pylene followed by glass and then polyester, may be be-
cause of more number of fibres, thus more surface area
available for interaction with resin, due to lower density
of polypropylene.
3.2.2Machine Direction
In machine direction also similar trend in results of com-
posite strength is noted, with significant difference at 5%
LOS. As compared to machine direction, cross direction
shows more
strength be-
cause of better
fibre orienta-
tion in cross
direction.
3.3 Extension
Since resin arrests fibres in composites, extension in all
the three composites is very less i.e. 1-2 %. There is no
significant difference in the extension of polyester, poly-
propylene and glass composite in machine as well as in
cross direction.
Since in cross direc-
tion, fiber orienta-
tion is better than
machine direction,
in all the three com-
posites compara-
tively more exten-
sion is recorded in
machine direction.
3.4 Flexural Strength
The flexural Strength is measured on Instron 5565 with
ASTM standard
D7264 [4] and the
results are as fol-
lows:
At 5% LOS, signifi-
cant difference in
flexural strength
has been observed
both in machine as
well as in cross di-
rection of three types of composites. Polypropylene com-
posite shows maximum flexural strength in both machine
and cross direction. This may be because of lower density
of polypropylene there are more number of fibres inter-
acting with matrix, followed by polyester and glass. Cross
direction bending strength is more because of better ori-
entation of fibres.
3.5 Flexural Elongation
Polypropylene composite is stiffer than polyester and
glass, because of comparatively more no interacting sur-
face available for res-
in bonding in polypro-
pylene composite. At
5% LOS, significant
difference is found
in flexural elongation
of composite both in
machine as well as in
cross direction.
3.6 Hardness
Hardness is a measure of material‘s resistance to perma-
nent deformation or damage, a measure of plastic defor-
mation, as is the tensile strength, traditionally, measured
on an empirically scale, determined by the ability of a
Figure 2 Effect of Reinforced Material on Breaking Strength MD
Figure 3 Effect of Reinforced Material on Extension %
Figure 4 Effect of Reinforced Material on Flexural Strength
Figure 4 Effect of Reinforced Material on Flexural Elongation
COVER STORY

material to scratch another, diamond being the hardest
and talc the softer [5]. The Micro hardness test proce-
dure, ASTM E-384 [6], Vickers method, based on an optical
measurement system,
is used to measure
hardness of compos-
ite samples, with 100
gm applied pressure,
with dwell time of 20
sec.
Hardness of composite reinforced with polyester and
polypropylene is higher than glass web reinforced com-
posite. At 5 % LOS, hardness value is significantly differ-
ent. This may be because of, comparatively, lower thick-
ness of glass web reinforced composite.
3.7 Machinability
A term; ‘Machinability’ has been introduced for gradation
of work materials with respect to machining characteris-
tics. [7]. Machinability is a term indicating how the work
material responds to the cutting process. Response of
material towards drilling is one of the method to assess
machinability of composites ( [8], [9], [10].
A hole was drilled with a drill machine, in all the three
composites. This confirms that all the three types of com-
posites, under study, are machinable. Power required to
drill the composites is significantly differing at 5 % LOS.
Glass web reinforced composites require comparatively
lower power for drill-
ing because of less
hardness, as discussed
in previous point 3.7.
3.8 Water absorption
Water absorption,
the amount of water
absorbed under specified conditions, is measured with
ASTM D570 [11].
P e r c e n t a g e
Water Absorp-
tion = [(Wet
weight - Dry
weight)/ Dry
weight] x 100
Figure 9 Effect
of Reinforced
Material on
Water Absorption
It has been observed that there is a significant difference
in the water absorption of polyester, polypropylene and
glass composite at 5% LOS. This may be because of more
void formation in glass composite
3.9 Moisture absorption
The moisture is known to affect a range of polymer prop-
erties, in turn performance of the product [12]. Moisture
absorption of matrix composites [13] is a gravimetric test
method based
on measure-
ment of the to-
tal mass change
that is exposed
to a specified
environment.
The results
show that there
is no significant difference between the moisture absorp-
tion of the three composite samples tested at 5% LOS.
Composites regain very less quantity, approximately 1%,
of water, which is quite good sign of unchanged behavior
of composites in actual usage.
Conclusion
Matrix- reinforcement compatibility is the key to the man-
ufacture of composites with good properties. Depending
upon structure of fibers, they react differently towards
specific resin Thus, type of fibre in nonwoven structure
do affect properties of composites. Same GSM nonwoven
structures, viz. polyester, polypropylene and glass web,
when reinforced in polyester resin, polypropylene and
polyester needle punched nonwoven reinforced compos-
ites exhibit better mechanical properties than glass web
reinforced composite. Thus, we can replace glass com-
posite by polyester or
polypropylene nonwoven composites in the areas like
partition board, humidification ducts, waste duct, roofing
etc.
Reference
Figure 6 Effect of Reinforced Material on Hardness Value
Figure 9 Effect of Reinforced Material on Moisture Absorption%
Figure 7 Effect of Reinforced Material on power requirement for drilling
Figure 8 Effect of Reinforced Material on Water Absorption
Eric Greene, Marine Composites, Second Edition, Eric Greene
Associates, Inc., 1999.
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Composites,” Materials and Manufacturing Processes, vol. 10,
no. 4, pp. 667-688, 1995.
www.astm.org, “ASTM D3039 / D3039M, Standard Test Meth-
od for Tensile Properties of Polymer Matrix Composite Ma-
terials,” ASTM International, West Conshohocken, PA, 2000.
www.astm.org, “ASTM D7264 / D7264M-15, Standard Test
Method for Flexural Properties of Polymer Matrix Compos-
ite Materials,” ASTM International, West Conshohocken, PA,
2015.
“Mechanical Properties of Metals,” [Online]. Available: http://
www.virginia.edu.
COVER STORY

www.astm.org, “ASTM E384-17, Standard Test Method for Mi-
croindentation Hardness of Materials,” ASTM International,
West Conshohocken, PA, 2017.
“Machinability,” Version 2 ME IIT, Kharagpur, [Online]. Avail-
able: http://nptel.ac.in.
P PIOTR PODZIEWSKI, JAROSŁAW GÓRSKI, PAWEŁ CZARNIAK,
JACEK WILKOWSKI, KAROL SZYMANOWSKI, “Raw particle-
board machinability experimental test – cutting quality and
cutting forces observed during drilling process,” Forestry and
Wood Technology, vol. 85, pp. 191-195, 2014.
Dr. John Edward Wyatt, Dr. George J. Trmal, “Machinability:
Employing a Drilling Experiment as a Teaching Tool,” Journal
of Industrial Technology, vol. 22, no. 1, 2006.
F. Mocellin, E. Melleras and W. L. Guesser, “Study of the Ma-
chinability of Compacted Graphite Iron for Drilling Process,” J.
of the Braz. Soc. of Mech. Sci. Eng., vol. 26, no. 1, January-
March 2004.
www.astm.org, “ASTM D570-98, Standard Test Method for
Water Absorption of Plastics,” ASTM International, West Con-
shohocken, PA, 1998.
BASF Corporation, “Tensile Properties of Semi-Crystalline
Thermoplastics – Performance Comparison under Alternative
Testing Standard,” [Online].
www.astm.org, “ASTM D5229 / D5229M-92, Standard Test
Method for Moisture Absorption Properties and Equilibrium
Conditioning of Polymer Matrix Composite Materials,” ASTM
International,, West Conshohocken, PA, 1992.
“fiberglass and composite design guide,” [Online]. Available:
http://www.performancecomposites.com.
A.H.M Fazle Elahi, Md. Milon Hossain , Shahida Afrin, Mubarak
A. Khan, “Study on the Mechanical Properties of Glass Fiber
Reinforced Polyester Composites,” in International Confer-
ence on Mechanical, Industrial and Energy Engineering 2014 ,
Khulna, BANGLADESH , 26-27 December, 2014.
NATURAL AND SUSTAINABLE RAW MATERIALS FOR SANI-
TARY NAPKIN
Abstract:
The present paper highlights the issue of non-biodegra-
dability of personal hygiene product and how it has be-
come a serious environmental concern all over the world.
Emphasis is given to use naturally available absorbent fi-
bres such as organic cotton, banana fibre, jute, bamboo
etc, which are widely available and biodegradable in na-
ture having low carbon footprint which not only makes it
ecofriendly but also reduces the cost of sanitary pad. And
to enhance the retention of fluid cellulose based hydro
gel can be used instead of synthetic super absorbent pol-
ymer. Sustainability of hygiene product can be attained
by replacing petroleum based raw material with an eco-
friendly one.
Keywords: - Biopolymer, Biodegradability, Natural fi-
bre, Sustainable material
1. Introduction
Currently, the world is facing a very big problem of car-
bon footprint of feminine hygiene product. As there is
a huge amount of non-biodegradable material dumped
in landfill, which releases harmful gasses into to the at-
mosphere. India being a developing country, with a popu-
lation of 1.34 billion, out of which 323.6 million female
between the age group of 15-49[1].If we consider that
10% of Indian women uses disposable sanitary pad then
each individual will generate at least half a kilo of waste a
month. In that way, 10% of the female population in India
will generate 16180 tons of waste every month. In order
to deal with it, we need to focus on developing a more
sustainable product by choosing the raw material having
low carbon footprint. Material which are used in feminine
hygiene product are derived from natural resource most-
ly petroleum based which cannot be reused or compost
and at the same time over-exploitation of these resources
have to be stopped otherwise nothing will be left for our
future generation. We have to find an alternative raw ma-
terial that is sustainable in nature, without compromising
on the functional requirement of the product [2].
2. Convention al structure and material used in
sanitary napkin
In order to classify the raw material for sanitary pad, first
we have to understand the basic mechanism how a sani-
tary pad works, what are their requirements and accord-
ingly we have to select the same. Sanitary pad comprises
of multilayered structure in which each layer have specific
function to perform. It consists of three main layers the
top sheet, absorbent core and barrier sheet.
a) Top sheet is designed to transfer fluid quickly from the
Acquisition Layer
Perforated Film (Polypropylene)
Absorbent core Barrier Sheet
(SAP+ Wood Pulp) (Polyethylene)
COVER STORY
Mrs. Pooja M. Katkar, Prof. (Dr.) P.V. Kadole
DKTES’s Textile Engineering Institute, Ichalkaranji.

top sheet to secondary layers. The top sheet contains
thermoplastic fibers to prevent capillary collapse of this
layer, and small amount of hydrophilic absorbent fibre to
allow fluid to absorb. Commercially available top sheet
are made up of polypropylene fibre [3].
b) Absorbent core is interposed between top sheet and
barrier layer main function is to absorb and retain the
fluid. Moreover, to have comfort, absorbent core need to
be thin, soft and pliable. The core was made up of wood
pulp traditionally but there is constant effort to replace it
by air laid wood pulp and SAP to improve its absorption
efficiency. SAP turns the absorbed liquid into a jelly-like
state so that it would not retract back. [4, 5]
c) Barrier Sheet seals the fluid from staining or leakages.
It is a breathable but fluid impermeable film made up of
polyethylene [6].
Few components of sanitary pad will disintegrate and be
attacked by the bacteria in a public or private sewage dis-
posal system but polyethylene or polymeric films used as
a barrier sheet remain intact as this polymer are inert and
are not broken down by bacteria and thus pollutes the
environment.
3. Alternative sustainable raw material to disposable
hygiene product
The following raw materials can be used to replace exist-
ing material used in sanitary pads.
3.1 Raw material for top sheet
Organic cotton as top sheet is one the commonly advised
raw material for sanitary napkin because of its non-irri-
tant, skin friendly and superior liquid retention proper-
ties. It is soft and breathable which gives comfort and
dryness. Cotton wicks away moisture and keeps skin dry
and its pH compatibility makes it skin friendly.[8] Organic
cotton are cultivated from non-treated Genetically Modi-
fied (GMO) seed and is grown using method and materi-
als having low impact on environment that is without any
use of synthetic agricultural chemical such as fertilizer
and pesticides. The crop needs to be certified by a certify-
ing body or the USDA.As cotton fibre comes directly from
nature, it degrade when disposed [9].
Recently Lenzing have come up with a new fibre called
TENCEL®Biosoft which is a lyocell fibre, fully biodegrad-
able and hydrophobic in nature with extra softness that
makes it an excellent choice to be used as top sheet. Ten-
cel is incredibly comfortable because of its even surface
and has excellent moisture transfusion through capillary
action and wicking [10]. It has a distinctive fibril configu-
ration; fibrils are like fine hair like structure. The submi-
croscopic channel between the individual fibrils control
absorption and liberate moisture. Thus, these tiny fibrils
assure best possible transportation of moisture. The ide-
al moisture management of this cellulosic fiber is respon-
sible for the reduced bacteria growth [11].
3.2 Raw material for absorbent core
The primary requirement of sanitary pad is absorbency
of menstrual fluid. Therefore, selection of core material
totally depends on the absorbency and retention prop-
erty of fibre.
Bamboo fibre is a novel alternative raw material for ab-
sorbent core. Bamboo absorbs and wicks water 3-4 times
better than cotton and reduces odor as the fiber is filled
with multiple micro-holes and micro-gaps. Bamboo is soft
to feel as the fibre is naturally round in shape it does not
require any chemical treatment to smoothen it. An addi-
tional significant property of bamboo is the anti-microbial
agent that is bamboo kun naturally present in it [9, 12].
In one of the research work done by IIT Kharagpur, Jute
fibre was used to substitute cotton pad. And it was found
that jute fibre is one of the best replacements for cotton
as healthy production of jute in eastern India facilitates
this fiber with 65-70% cellulose content and high water
affinity. Jute is having lower price than cotton fibre and
abundant in north-east of India. The additional advantage
of jute fibers to cotton is that the fiber length is much
shorter in the case of jute easing the preparation of cel-
lulose pulp [13, 14].
Sanitary pads from banana fibre were developed by SHE
(Sustainable Health Enterprises) a non-profitable NGO,
their intention was to make affordable, quality and eco-
friendly sanitary napkins available to girls and women in
developing country. Banana is a natural absorbent fibre;
the key reason is its natural porosity. Banana fibre is an
eco-friendly fibre like jute fibre. It is biodegradable and
has no negative effect on environment and thus can be
categorized as eco-friendly fibre. Banana fibre is mainly
cultivated for fruit. The fibres are harvested from the
plant’s trunk, which are normally unused and go to waste
[15][16].
Studies have been done to replace cotton fillers by flax
spinning waste to be used as a absorbent core of sanitary
pad, which is much cheaper than pure cotton as well as
highly absorbent and have natural cellulosic composition.
It was observed that absorbency of fibre increased after
scouring and bleaching. To give antimicrobial activity flax
absorbent core was treated with 70% aloegel extract
which showed satisfactory antimicrobial and antifungal
potential [17].
To further improve the absorbency of sanitary pad cel-
lulose based hydrogel were manufactured to imitate
synthetic superabsorbent polymer by a sustainable pro-
cess using a nontoxic cross linking agent. Cellulose based
hydro gel are based on sodium carboxy methylcellulose
(NaCMC) and hydroxyethyl cellulose (HEC) cross linked
with divinylsulfone (DVS). It can swell like SAP and shows
fluid retention under centrifugal load. These has been
COVER STORY

possible by introducing microporous structure into the
hydrogel ,by introducing phase inversion desiccation
technique in acetone, which increases the retention and
swelling kinetics due to capillary effect. Main advantage
of cellulose- based hydrogel over current SAP is that they
are environment friendly, biodegradable and excellent
biocompatibility [18,19].
3.3 Raw material for Barrier sheet
Widely used protective film in hygiene products are poly-
ethylene and polyurethane, which are non-biodegradable
plastic .This plastic material can be replaced by bio-based
plastic prepared from starch. Many research works on
bio-plastic are in progress. Biodegradable plastic can be
a bio-derived and biodegradable/compostable (e.g., poly-
lactides, polyhydroxyalkanoates) or a fossil fuel-derived
and biodegradable (e.g., polycaprolactone) [20].
Nonabsorbent fibres such as polypropylene, ethylene etc.
are derived from petroleum resources, which have high
carbon footprint and non-biodegradable in nature. An
alternative sustainable replacement of petroleum- based
fibre is the PLA (Poly Lactic Acid) fibre, which is derived
from cornstarch using latest biotechnology. It is most
promising thermoplastic biodegradable polymer mate-
rial. In order to enhance the functional property of PLA,
TiO2/Ag+ is added which give an antimicrobial property
to PLA. After adding a copy of inorganic nano- TiO2/Ag+,
the antibacterial rate of PLA films to Coli bacillus, Staphy-
lococcus and Mildew were exceeded 95%.[21] Non-toxic,
anti-bacterial and biodegradable characteristic of modi-
fied PLA makes it an excellent choice to be used in hy-
giene industry. The only drawback at present is the high
cost of synthesis of this high molecular weight PLA that is
5-6 times more than conventional plastic [22].
4. Conclusion
Nature has encompassed every solution within itself. With
more and more use of natural fibre in hygiene product
will make it eco-friendly. Use of natural fibre in sanitary
pad will reduce the cost of the product will lower accessi-
ble to low income group women. As the product is biode-
gradable, prevent non-biodegradable waste generation.
We as a technologist have to find a sustainable way so
that we endow a better world for next generation.
5. References
[1] www.worldpopulationreview.com
[2] Miranda A.Farage , “A Behind the scenes look at the safety assessment of
feminine hygiene pads”,The NewYork Academy of Sciences,Jan 2007
[3]M.D.Teli,Aranya Mallick Aakansha Srivastava, “Parameters of choice of
sanitary napkins-A techno-commercial survey” Journal of the Textile Associa-
tion Nov-Dec 2015.
[4]Kara E. Woeller , Anne E. Hochwalt, “Safety Assessment Of Sanitary Pads
With A Polymeric Foam Absorbent Core”, Regulatory Toxicology and Pharma-
cology 73 (2015) 419-424
[5]BhupenderS.Gupta, “Study of Absorbency In Non Woven: The Role Of Struc-
ture Factors And Fluid Characteristic” Papers of International Conference on
NONWOVENS, Published in 1992 The Textile Institute North India Section
[6]Roshan L.Shishoo, “Analysis Of Structure- Absorbency Relationship In Dis-
posable Hygienic Products” Papers of International Conference on NONWO-
VENS, Published in 1992 The Textile Institute North India Section
[7]M Pohlmann, “Design And Materials Selection: Analysis Of Similar Sanitary
Pads For Daily Use” IJERA ,Vol.6,Issue11(Part-2)Nov 2016,pp74-79
[8] Textile Exchange Organic Cotton Market Report 2016
[9] O.L.Shanmugasundaram,R.V Mahendra Gowda,“ Development and
characterization of bamboo and organic cotton blended baby diapers”,
IJFTR,Vol.35,September 2010,pp201-205
[10]Bianca Schachtner and Anja Maier, “TENCEL® Biosoft-a Complete New Fi-
bre Development: Soft-Hydrophobic-Botanic”, Lenzinger Berichte 91(2013)53-
55
[11]M.Dhinakaran,C.S.Senthil Kumar and T.Sathis Kumar, “ Development
And Characterization Of Sanitary Napkins With Lyocell/Modal As Absorbent
Core” ,International Research Journal of engineering and technology,Vol
04,issue:02,Feb2017
[12]Ann Mburu ,Joseph Kinyanjui , “Development Of A Highly Adsorbemt And
Antibacterial Biodegradable Sanitary Pad From Bamboo” International confer-
ence National Council for science and technology 2nd national science,13-17
May 2013.
[13]S.N.Chattopadhayay,R.K.Ghosh,S.Bhattacharyya and S.Bhowmick, “Devel-
opment OF Eco-Friendly And Sustainable Feminine Hygiene Products FROM
Lignocellulosic Jute Fibre”
[14]Project report: Development Of Cotton Lap/Cellulose Pad Substitute From
Jute by IIT Kharagpur.March 2013
[15]D.Brindha,S.Vinodhini,K.Alarmelumangai and N.S Malathy, “Physico-
Chemical Properties Of Fibres From Banana Varieties After Scouring” ,Indian
Journal of Fundamental and Applied Life Sciences,2012 Vol.2(1) January –
March,pp 217-221
[16] Our Intiative “SHE:Sustainable Health Enterprises” 2008.Web.05April2010
[17]Sarika Mishra,Ritu Pandey and Mukesh Kumar Singh, “Development Of
Sanitary Napkin By Flax Carding Waste As Absorbent Core With Herbal And
Antimicrobial Efficiency” International Journal of Science,Environment and
Technology, Vol.5, No2,2016,404-411
[18] Alessando Sannino,Christian Demitri and Marta Madaghiele, “Biodegrada-
ble Cellulose-based Hydrogels:Design and Application”, Materials 2009,2,353-
37
[19]Martin A.Hubbe,Ali Ayoub Jesse S.daystar,Richard A.Venditti and Joel
J.Pawlak, “Enhance Absorbent Products Incorporating Cellulose And Its Deriva-
tives: A Review”, BioResource,8(4),6556-6629(2013)
[20]Xiu-keFu,Jian-qung Wang and Zheng-wei Jin, “Preparation And Properties
of Functionalization for PLA Film”, Scientific Research ,Proceedings of the 17th
LAPRI World Conference on Packing,2010
[21]M.A Shirai et al. “Poly(Lactic Acid)/Thermoplastic Starch Sheets:Effect Of
Adipate Esters On The Morphological ,Mechanical And Barrier Properties”
Polimeros, http://dx.doi.org/10.1590/0104-1428.2123
[22]Johansson et al. “Renewable Fibers and Bio-Based Materials for Packing
Applications-A Review Of Recent Developments”, BioResources 7(2),2506-
2552. 2506
Anuradha Barman, Pooja M Katkar
Suhas D Asagekar
Research Scholar Faculty Department of Textile, D.K.T.E, society’s Tex-
tile and Engineering Institute Ichalkaranji-416115, Maharashtra,
COVER STORY

PROJECT CONCEPT PROFILE ON A MSME GREENFIELD
TECHNICAL TEXTILE PROJECT
Entrepreneur who wants set up spun bond technical tex-
tile plant, kindly find below steps / requirement for the
project.
1. Project Concept and introduction:
The proposed mid-size project is for setting up a MSME
size greenfield Technical textile and nonwoven fabric
unit, based on German technology for production of Dis-
posable nonwovens of type Spun Bond, SMS, SMMS.
The final products for sale into market shall be disposa-
ble Nonwoven fabrics which are now increasingly being
used for medical and hygiene uses, and for disposable
linen by Hospitals, airlines, Railways, and as Filter media.
2.The Capacity proposed for the different products will
be based on 1.8 mtr production line and technology of eg,
Neumag-Oerlikon, GermAny to produce such spun melt
nonwoven fabrics at 400-600 Meter/minute speed. The
project can have higher cost option with 3.2 meter wide
line eg. From Reifenhauser, Germany.
Different products in varying weight [GSM], from 20-100
gsm, will be produced from PP and PSF polymer chips, to
deliver an output of approx. 8 to 10 ton/day depending
on the fineness and GSM of the nonwoven fabrics.
3. The estimate of Plant and machinery cost, will be ap-
prox. Euro 3 million for import, and add` Rs 3 crores for
Indian utility engg. equipments to support the produc-
tion form main Imported plant
Starting Project Cost For Fixed Capital Investment, And
Excluding Land And Wc Funds, Is Est. At Approx., Rs 30
Crores.Of This Fixed Cost, 1/3rd Share Will Be Own Invest-
ment By Promoters.
4.Process and Raw Material required:
The project would deliver multiple and popular TECHNI-
CAL TEXTILE products of the NON WOVEN Disposable
types, and which are used in multiple industrial and
consumer end uses, as below::
5. Product uses/ applications: mainly for use as Dispos-
able soft Fabrics for making linen for use in hospitals/Rail-
ways/airlines, and for making end use kits for personal
hygiene [like diapers and pads], and as filteration media
in automobile and industrial use.
6.Means of project Financing: The overall capital cost
for greenfield project is estimated at Rs 30crore,and is
planned to be funded with bank Term Loan of 70% ,that
is for Rs 21crore,alongwith promoters own share of 30%
[and Including cost of land and, also including margin for
WC to the bank etc.].
7. Govt. benefits a nd State Govt. incentives:
Technical textiles units are `most favored` projects for
both Centre and State govt. concessions.
a) Such unit will be getting `interest rebate` of 5% from
Centre govt. under TUF scheme, and special15% capi-
tal subsidy `under Technical textile category` on FOB
value plant machinery, from Centre govt.
b) In addition to above, a same level of interest rebate
and subsidy is expected to be additionally available
from State Govt. as per the new mega Textile/ State
Textile Policy, eg of states like Telengana, UP and Gu-
jarat.
c] The products will also get IGST/SGST exemptions equal
to investment in plant and machinery value over 7-8
years, and
d] Rebate on Power tariff and, exemption of Duty on
electricity.
8. Project execution period: will be 11-12 Months, after
bank loan sanction, and subject to Ordering of all key ma-
chinery, incl. Imported Plant for Spun bond and spun melt
Plants form Germany and/or China, and supporting engg.
And Utility plant and equipment form India eg, electrical
Chiller, Compressor, others etc.
9: Turnkey project planning and Site Implementation
consultancy
M/s Nuovatex Projects Co, New Delhi
NUOVATEX PROJECTS CO.(NPC) is Based at New Delhi is
an established Textile consultancy enterprise of 30 years
standing for providing Textile projects consultancy, pro-
ject implementation support and running textile Mill op-
erations. NUOVATEX is a Textile sector services provider,
specialized technical and projects consultancy for plan-
ning of new Greenfield textile projects, especially Geo
textiles/geo synthetics including. REGEN FIBER PROJECTS,
YARN SPINNING AND FABRIC MILLS, WEAVING UNITS
FOR DENIM/ TOWELS/ HOME TEXTILES, TECHNICAL TEX-
TILES, NONWOVENS KNITTING UNITS FOR OPENWIDTH
/TUBULAR KNIFABRICS, and esp. under the ongoing TUF
scheme, and special Textile policy of various States, like
Maharashtra, MP, Uttarakhand, others. NPC is empan-
elled with the Office of Textile Commissioner, Ministry of
Textiles, Govt. of India, and with ILFS India Cluster Initia-
tives.
By Mr. Munish Tyagi
COVER STORY

Project Overview
This is a rehabilitation project where sections of a 100
year old structure, Elan Valley Aqueduct (EVA) needed to
be replaced. The EVA is an extremely crucial resource as
it supplies water to Birmingham and its adjacent areas.
The aqueduct is approximately 120 km long, discharges
300 million liters of water every day into the reservoir at
Frankley Water Treatment Works (WTW) in Birmingham,
and currently supplies water to about 1.2 million people.
There was a need to refurbish and modernize the aque-
duct so that it can be preserved for the future. For this, a
new conduit with a tunnel of 1.8 km long and 3.0 m diam-
eter was proposed to be constructed. For the construc-
tion of the bypass conduit, a horizontal working platform
of 160m long and maximum 14.0 m high was required to
support the construction traffic, the 1000 ton crane used
to assemble the Tunnel Boring Machine (TBM) and the
150 ton TBM.
The solution consisted of a Reinforced Soil Wall using
StrataGrid™ of 120 and 60 kN/m and “site-won” cohesive
material as part of the cut-and-fill balance of the project.
To complicate the challenge the entire reinforced soil was
required to be made with the site-won material which has
a very high content of fine soils, and was very susceptible
to weather conditions.
The Innovative Solution
This project was launched by Severn Trent Water as an
alternative source of portable water to Birmingham city
(population 1.2 million) in future cases of emergency.
To have smooth construction traffic and support the 1000
ton crane, which would be used to assemble the Tunnel
Boring Machine (TBM) for the construction of the tunnel,
it was necessary to construct a levelled and horizontal
working area at one end of the new bypass tunnel, down-
stream of the project.
For this it was proposed to construct a Reinforced Soil Wall
with StrataGrid™and on-site won material to surround
the location of the cofferdam for the TBM launch shaft.
The length of the RSW was 160m, with a maximum height
of 14 m, a slope angle of 85 degrees. A reinforced working
platform was constructed, on top of the Reinforced Soil
Wall, with selected granular material of 970mm thickness
and biaxial geogrid to distribute the load. For the face a
steel mesh B1131 was used to achieve the slope angle of
85deg and each layer was protected with Landlok erosion
control mat.
The total height of the Reinforced Soil Wall comprised 43
layers of primary reinforcement with uniaxial StrataGrid™
120kN/m and 60 kN/m allowingthe use of on-site won
material as part of the cut-and-fill balance exercise, a key
aspect of the project.
Value Addition to Customers
ƒ Saved considerable amountof cost as compared to the
conventional method of constructing a concrete wall
ƒ Environment friendly solution, low carbon emission
ƒ Technically sound and robust system
ƒ Rapid construction
Location: Wales, United Kingdom
Partner: Geosynthetics Limited, UK
System Offered: Reinforced soil wall using StrataGrid™
CONSTRUCTION OF A REINFORCED SOIL WALL FOR A WORKING
PLATFORM FOR A 1000 TON CRANE AND A TBM MACHINE
COVER STORY

YARN REPORT
FIBRE AND YARN EXPORT DOUBLES IN MARCH
In March, fibre, spun and filament yarn shipment more
than doubled in US$ term, mainly due to a low base.
In March 2017, exports were botched by the demoneti-
zations of high currency notes which hampered the con-
ventionally cash based businesses. Further, exports were
also impeded by the newly launched GST regime in July.
The processes and rules were tweaked over the period
but could not boost export. March numbers also reflect
export target performance of textile companies.
Cotton export surges from low base in March
Cotton exports surged 151% in March with shipment of
12.5 lakh bales (170 kg each) as against 5 lakh bales ex-
ported in March 2017. The increase is largely due to a low
base when cotton marketing activity was hampered by
the demonetization of currency note which caught the
market in surprise on 8 November 2017. The effect con-
tinued during the entire season. The rise was also sup-
ported by lower export price, although domestic prices
were up during the month. Bangladesh was the largest
imported of India cotton in March, followed by Pakistan
and Malaysia.
Thus, the first six months of 2017-18 cotton marketing
year, shipment aggregated 5.66 million bales as against
48.2 million bales in the corresponding months of pre-
vious marketing year. The price realization averaged
INR 118 a kg or US cents 83.64 per pound in March as
against the Cotlook Index ‘A’ at 92.19 per pound and spot
Shankar-6 at US cents 80.30 per pound.
Spun yarn and Fabric export jumps in March
In March, all yarns shipment volume was 137 million kg
worth US$ 429 million. Unit value realization aver-aged
US$ 3.13 per kg, up US cents 10 compared to last year.
The surge is largely due to carry over of previous volumes
due to GST anomalies. Meanwhile, the INR appreciated
from INR 66 to INR 64 this March. China was the larg-
est buyer of spun yarns, continued to remain on the top
both in terms of volume and value. Cotton yarn export
was at 113 million kg worth US$ 360 million (INR 2,311
crore) was twice in this March from previous March as 74
countries imported cotton yarn at an average price of US$
3.19 a kg, US cent 1 more than previous month and up US
cents 5 from last year.
China sharply increased its import of cotton yarn from
India by 180% in volume and value terms and was top im-
porter during the month. It was followed by Bangladesh
with volume and value both more than doubling over the
year. Portugal and Egypt were the other major importers,
also doubling their imports from India. Peru was the fifth
largest destination. Only 5 countries did not import any
cotton yarn from India as they did last March, but were
replaced by seven other countries which imported yarn
worth US$ 0.70 million.
Israel, Greece, Algeria, Montenegro and Bulgaria were
among the fastest importers of cotton yarn in March
while Jordan, UAE and Russia significantly reduced their
import compared to last year.
100% man-made fibre yarns exports jumped both in vol-
ume and value in March. MMF yarn exports comprised
4.6 million kg of polyester yarn, 1.7 million kg of viscose
yarn and 1.2 million kg of acrylic yarn. Poly-ester yarn ex-
ports rose 60 in value while viscose yarn exports value in-
creased 33% during the month. Acrylic yarn exports were
down 26%.
Polyester spun yarns were exported to 43 countries at av-
erage unit price of US$ 2.42 a kg. Turkey was the largest
importer of polyester yarn, followed by Brazil and USA.
Viscose yarn worth US$ 6 million or INR 39 crore was ex-
ported in March at an average price of US$ 3.49 per kg.
Belgium sprang back as the top importer worth US$ 1.35
million, followed by Turkey and Iran.
Blended spun yarns worth US$ 50 million were exported
in March, up 98% YoY in value terms. During the month,
7.6 million kg of PC yarns was exported worth US$ 21 mil-

lion while 6 million kg of PV yarns were ex-ported worth
US$ 18 million. Brazil Bangladesh and Egypt, were the
largest importers of PC yarn from India while Turkey was
the only major importer of PV yarns from India followed
distantly by South Africa
Woven fabric shipment (exports) were buoyant in March,
but mainly due to a low base. In March 2017, exports
had fallen more than 20% year on year, botched by the
demonetization of high currency notes which hampered
the conventionally cash based businesses. Further, ex-
ports were sluggish after the newly launched GST regime
in July. The processes and rules were amended over the
period but could not boost export. March numbers also
reflect the target performance of textile companies.
Fabric shipment rose 36% to 420 million sq mtrs (YoY)
worth US$ 350 million or INR 2,240 crore. Thus, cumula-
tive export during the fiscal year 2017-18, was 4,360 mil-
lion sq mtr, up 2% compared with previous year. In terms
of value, woven fabric export was worth US$ 3,435 mil-
lion or INR 21,825 crore.
During March, 140 countries imported woven fabrics
from India, topped by Bangladesh and followed by UAE
and Sri Lanka. The three together accounted for 32% of
total woven fabric shipped during the month. During the
month only 10 countries did not import any fabric as last
year. How-ever, they were replaced by 18 other countries
which imported fabric worth US$ 0.7 million this March.
Nepal, Uruguay and Jordan were the fastest growing large
markets for woven fabrics, and ac-counted for close to 1%
of total export value in March.
Source: Textile Beacon Global Info Services
GLOBAL TEXTILE PRICING TREND IN APRIL
Nitin Madkaikar
Textile Beacon
A
ctivities on the cotton Futures market turned a bit weak in the third week, as
the May contract moved closer to expiry while July prepared to become the
spot month. The threat of rains in West Texas kept December under mini-
mal pressure, but the expected rain event appears weak. Essentially the major
production areas in the three states were either suffering from exceptional or extreme
drought, implying more than one inch rain will be needed. As the month came to a
close, the most-active July settle at US cents 84.94 per pound after touching seven-week
high at US cents 85.39 per pound.
Cotton
Global spot
benchmark,
the Cot-
look A index
inched up US
cents0.4 on
the month to
average US
cents 92.60
per pound.In
China, cotton
spot market
was range bound with thin liquidity and flat prices. Me-
chanically-harvested Xinjiang-origin grade were quoted
at US cents 109-111 per pound. The China Cotton Index
edged down 173 Yuan to 15,483 a ton (US cents 112 a
pound).
In Pakistan, the KCA spot rate averaged PakRs7,570 per
maund ex-Karachi, down PakRs50 on the month. Buyers
secured better and second grade of lint on premium price
while buying in second grade of lint remained on higher
side with firm physical prices during past week. Reports
said stocks of better grades of lint were shrinking.
YARN REPORT

In India, prices of coarser variety cotton were seen mod-
erating INR 225-950per candy during April while finer va-
riety was dearer by INR 250-775per candy. Benchmark
Shankar-6 was traded at INR 41,175 per candy on an av-
erage. The Indian Cotton Federation after reviewing the
crop situation for the 2017-18 cotton year, believes that
the situation is more stable than expected. It stated that
cotton farmers were expecting better prices earlier and
with late arrivals, it was opined that the crop was less. But
with arrivals picking up, market is expected to be stable.
Cotton Yarn
Cotton yarn markets were steady in China as participants
were cautious on the whole, with prices up to flat on the
month. Offers for some best-selling products were rela-
tively firm, mainly yarn made of high-quality cotton and
high-count yarns, while the prices of conventional specs
were unchanged. In Shengze32s cotton yarn prices inched
up US cents 3 to average US$ 3.68 a kg, while 40s were
at US$ 3.84 a kg, also up US cents 4mostly due to weak
Yuan. In India, cotton yarn markets were steady but slow
although industry was expecting a steady cotton market.
Reportedly, mills were not carrying huge yarn stock as the
payments were delayed after GST implementation. The
industry also feared threat from imports from Bangla-
desh and Pakistan. In India, 30s combed cotton yarn for
knitting fell to INR 195 a kg or US$ 2.97, down US cents
7also due to weak INR in Ludhiana.
Polyester chain pricing
April was a rising cost and moderating downstream char-
acterized month for the polyester chain, wherein, end-
product prices were down while raw materials rose. The
strengthening of US$ also pegged quoted in greenback
down.
Polyester fibre
Polyester staple fibre prices edged down in China and In-
dia this April while they were lifted in Pakistan. In China,
as crude oil hovered at higher level and feedstock also go-
ing range bound, downstream PSF converters and traders
were inactive in purchase, leading to tepid trading. PSF
makers offloaded goods with some discounts. In Jiangsu
and Zhejiang, offers for 1.4D direct-melt PSF were cut US
cent 1-2 to US$ 1.38-1.42 a kg, while the same in Fujian
and Shandong were down at US$ 1.38-1.44 a kg. In India,
PSF makers reduced offers as production was steady and
supply unchanged. 1.2D at INR 94.75 a kg or US$ 1.44 a kg
and 1.4-2D at INR 96 a kg (US$ 1.44 a kg).In Pakistan, pro-
ducers offers were lifted for 1.4D PSF by PakRs4.25 to Pa-
kRs.162.75-164.75 a kg (US$ 1.41-1.42 a kg, up US cents 1).
Polyester intermediates
PTA prices continued to rise in Asian markets on sound
fundamental support with several units to undergo main-
tenance in May. In China, PTA prices are set to stay firm
during the rest of Q2 on the back of firm crude oil prices,
tight supply due to several turnarounds, and healthy de-
mand. Increasing paraxylene prices will also help to sus-
tain the cost of PTA. In India, too PTA prices rose in line
with global numbers. Asian PTA markers were lifted 1.6%
on the month with CFR China at US$ 781-783 a ton while
offer from Taiwan/Korea averaged 798-810 a ton. In India,
prices were at US$ 810 a ton CIF, up 1.9% from March.
MEG markets in Asia were under fluctuation and prices
spiraled in April but were seen tapering as the month
came to a close. There were two reason; one, the delivery
of goods came to an end and two, downstream polyes-
ter market showed flat performance, and prices turned
soft. Meanwhile, inventories in east China increased 24%
since first week to 860 kilo ton, which also weighed on
spot prices. The CFR China markers averaged US$ 1,006-
1,011 a ton and CFR South East Asia at US$ 1,005-1,010 a
ton, up 13% on the month while offers for nearby-month
cargoes and discussions in China were in the range of US$
1,025-1,035 a ton to US$ 1,000-1,010 a to
YARN REPORT
‘‘What we GET by achieving our goals is not as
important as what we BECOME by achieving our goals.
”

Greige Market is very firm with lot of production and hike
in price around ฀ 2 to ฀ 3, but yet no such demand in
Market. Payment is still the major cause in market. So,
market is not flourishing as it has to be.
Exports in African countries becoming a nightmare to
the traders, because no payment on time. Still there is a
huge demand of low quality fabric at Africa but no money
means no purchase. While USD plays a vital role in global
market, USD rate hiked within month by minimum Rs.
64.9016 (April 9) and maximum at Rs. 67.1386 (May 7),
with Average Rs. 66.1048 ( Ref:www.exchange-rates.org).
It has been slowed down the Fabric export totally.
Rate of Cotton is hiked by ฀ 2 and Synthetic has been
hiked by ฀ 1 with their current market rate. While Denim
is hiked by ฀ 3 to ฀ 4 with reference to its current market
rate and its demand is rising day by day. Denim market is
flourishing tremendously.
In Garment, there was no hike in price. Consumer is buy-
ing clothes on same old rates. Many Traders have closed
their business due to huge debts and losses.
Process house started purchasing greige fabric directly
from the manufacturer and selling it directly to the retail-
er and exporter as per requirement. Direct Sales Agent
has been appointed by process house for same.
TEXTILE WORLD
SULZER - RUNNING QUALITIES -APRIL 2018 - REVISION # 1 DT. 12.04.2018
S.NO QUALITY
HSN
CODE
WT L.MTR WT GSM YARN TYPE WEAVE STD
PRICE
EX.MILL
1 07X07/68X38 - 63 5209 625 390 OE X OE DRILL DYEING 97.00
2 10X06/76X28 - 63 5209 510 325 OE X OE DUCK DYEING 79.00
4 10X10/40X36 - 63 5208 310 195 OE X OE PLAIN DYEING 52.00
12 2/20X10/40X36 - 48 5208 235 193 OE X OE PLAIN DYEING 45.00
13 2/20X10/40X36 - 63 5208 310 193 OE X OE PLAIN DYEING 58.00
25 30X30/76X68 - 65 5208 195 112 CARDED PLAIN DYEING 55.00
26 30X30/68X64 - 63 5208 175 110 CARDED PLAIN S.DYEING 48.00
27 30X30/124X64 - 63 5208 260 165 CARDED 2/1 TWILL DYEING 72.00
28 40X40/92X88 - 67 5208 200 118 COMBED PLAIN DYEING 68.00
SLUB Fabrics - (Warp - Normal yarn + Weft Ringspun Carded Slub yarn)
1 10X10/40X36 - 63 5208 315 195 OE X RS PLAIN DYEING 65.00
2 16X08/84X28 - 63 5209 370 225 OE X RS DUCK DYEING 75.00
3 2/20X10/40X36 - 48 5208 240 195 OE X RS PLAIN DYEING 55.00
4 2/20x10/40x36 - 63 5208 315 195 OE X RS PLAIN DYEING 72.00
ALL PRICES ARE EX - MILL. (GST 5 % ADDITIONAL)
FABRIC MARKET REPORT
By Kirti Shah

LENZING ENTERS NEW PHASE WITH LAUNCH OF TENCEL™
AS LENZING’S FLAGSHIP BRAND FOR TEXTILE
y New TENCEL™ brand architecture enables textile in-
dustry partners, retailers and consumers to “Feel so
right” with TENCEL™ apparel and home offerings
y Consumer-focused TENCEL™ brand portfolio moves
beyond fiber to everyday use or application - TENCEL™
Active, TENCEL™ Denim, TENCEL™ Home, TENCEL™ In-
timate and TENCEL™ Luxe
The Lenzing Group (Lenzing) redefined TENCEL™, as its
textile premium brand at the 2018 Fibers Yarns by Te-
coya Group in Mumbai India. The redefining of the TEN-
CEL™ brand is a key milestone of Lenzing’s new brand
strategy to enhance product brand offerings, foster con-
nection with customers and consumers, and drive con-
sumer demand. TENCEL™ is well positioned to be a major
growth engine in the textile sector, with a brand portfolio
that caters for distinctive usage – TENCEL™ Active, TEN-
CEL™ Denim, TENCEL™ Home, TENCEL™ Intimate, and
TENCEL™ Luxe, all enabled by two versatile and highly
compatible fibers, TENCEL™ Modal and TENCEL™ Lyocell.
Designed and based on the findings and insights of an
extensive market research, the brand architecture is an
important step for Lenzing to transform from a business-
to-business (B2B) fiber producer to a business-to-busi-
ness-to-consumer (B2B2C) brand. The brand architecture
not only addresses the growing trend amongst retail
brands and consumers to seek out for products that
make them look good and feel good, but also do good
via sustainable and transparent production processes,
like the processes used for producing TENCEL™ Modal
and TENCEL™ Lyocell fibers. According to research find-
ings, while LENZING™ Modal is known as a fiber with good
quality and long-lasting exquisite softness, TENCEL™ is a
well-recognized and appreciated brand name among
stakeholders, customers and consumers in key target re-
gions of Lenzing. Hence, TENCEL™ is adopted as Lenzing’s
textile specialty brand for apparel and home applications,
and is aimed to help create a unique and differentiating
brand in the Modal and Lyocell fiber markets. The re-
defined TENCEL™ product brand, along with the tagline
“Feels so right”, will enable Lenzing to embark on commu-
nication around messages that move beyond fiber types
and characteristics towards everyday use and benefits
that brands and consumers value.
“With a longer-term strategy to enhance connection with
customers and consumers, 2018 will be a game changer
year for Lenzing,” said S.Jayaraman, Regional Commercial
Director for South Asia and South East Asia. “Globally, the
wood based cellulosic market is still small compared to
the overall fiber demand and we expect greater growth in
the foreseeable future. Specifically, the South Asia market
is poised to capture an even larger share of that growth
because it has all the necessary ingredients for success in
the textile industry - from infrastructure to cost competi-
tiveness, from population size to people expertise.”
Under the new brand strategy, TENCEL™ Modal and TEN-
CEL™ Lyocell fibers will be key ingredients in the TEN-
CEL™ branded product portfolio. Derived from certified
and controlled wood sources, both TENCEL™ Modal and
TENCEL™ Lyocell standard fibers are produced via re-
sponsible production processes and are compostable
and biodegradable under industrial, home, soil and ma-
rine conditions. Enabled by industry innovations, includ-
ing REFIBRA™ technology, Eco Soft technology, Eco fila-
ment technology and Micro technology, textiles produced
under the TENCEL™ brand offer premium standards of
sustainability and natural comfort to meet evolving con-
sumer demand.
“We are charting a bold new course to simplify our prod-
uct portfolio and elevate our brand to bring more value
to consumers and industry partners,” said Vernon Yeo,
Head of Marketing Branding for Asia, Middle East and
Africa Region. “As Lenzing’s flagship brand in the textile
sector, TENCEL™ will grow beyond fiber types and func-
tional characteristics, it will become a true consumer-
focused brand with a promise of something more func-
tional and emotional. By elevating TENCEL™ to a promise
to the consumer rather than a product message to the
value chain, we can start to excite consumers, retailers
and brands about the holistic benefits of botanic fibers.
Guided by the brand promise of ‘Feels so right’, TENCEL™
brings greater degree of comfort and higher performance
to consumers while making them feel good about the
choices they make. We hope to create a stronger con-
nection with the industry value chain and consumers
through our expertise around sustainability, especially in
TENCEL™ Modal and TENCEL™ Lyocell fibers. In the long
run, we plan to build TENCEL™ not only into a trusted B2B
brand, but also a preferred consumer brand, which pro-
vides B2B customers with ease to maximize marketing ef-
fectiveness and enables consumers to identify ‘feel-good’
products made with sustainable materials.”
Moving beyond fiber to distinctive everyday usage or ap-
plication in consumer-focused–branded offer, including
TENCEL™ Active, TENCEL™ Denim, TENCEL™ Home, TEN-
CEL™ Intimate and TENCEL™ Luxe, have been created un-
der the TENCEL™ portfolio. New swing tags and market-
ing materials will be launched on a retail level to provide
clarity on product benefit claims containing TENCEL™
branded fibers. The swing tags, along with more detailed
guidelines on B2B and B2C usage, are now available on
Lenzing’s new e-branding service platform, which caters
to B2B customers and retail partners, offering faster,
BRAND FOCUS

more sustainable and more user-friendly solutions for
certification and licensing.
“By applying the new brand strategy, we will take a more
personalized and targeted approach to reflect the TEN-
CEL™ brand essence of ‘softness’ and ‘feeling good with
a natural touch’ with local B2B customers, retail partners
and consumers,” added Avinash Mane, Head of Commer-
cial, South Asia. “We will work closely with the local indus-
try value chain and retail brands to educate consumers
about TENCEL™ featured value propositions like product
quality, functional benefits and sustainability. Co-brand-
ing programs such as swing tags or packaging, and co-
marketing campaigns with retail brands will enable us to
reach out to consumers directly. With more brand expo-
sure and ongoing consumer education from this year on-
wards, consumers will see more of us through the TEN-
CEL™ brand in apparel and home textiles and/or in our
partners’ retail outlets in the South Asia region.”
The redefining of TENCEL™ as Lenzing’s textile flagship
brand will be effective from today onwards. This will be
the first step of Lenzing’s new brand exercise, where the
same approach will also apply to nonwoven and industri-
al applications, which will be announced at a later stage.
BRAND FOCUSBRAND FOCUS
• Yarn market is moving well with demand from domes-
tic and international market.
• Cotton Production expected is 380 Lacs bales of 170
kg each till end of September 2018.
• Cotton Production in Gujarat is expected to be 115
Lacs bales till end of September 2018.
• Cotton Export is expected to be 65 Lacs Bales till end
of September 2018.
• Current Rate for Shankar 6 is Rs. 42000 / Candy
• Cotton expected Arrival in May 2018 is 70000- 75000
bales
• May and June is sowing period for Australia, China,
USA
• In India, sowing starts from May , if stock of water is
available with farmer. If no water, then farmer will wait
for first rain, afterwards they sow the seeds of cotton.
Generally in North Gujarat they sow seeds around 15-
20th May but in Saurashtra depending upon the wa-
ter availability.
• Central and State government supporting textile in-
dustry from farm to Retail.
• Gujarat Mills VAT refund has been released from gov-
ernment. GST refund expected to release soon, spin-
ner association are positive about government move.
Cotton farmers may shift to soybean this kharif sea-
son
Soybean is trading at a 25 per cent premium to the MSP,
after initially slipping below the government’s threshold
procurement price of Rs 2,850 a quintal. Many cotton
farmers are reportedly looking to shift to soybean during
the coming kharif sowing season, as the oilseed fetched
a better return last year. During most of the 2017-18 cot-
ton season (July 1 to June 30), prices have, barring a cou-
ple of short-term ripples, remained lower than the mini-
mum support price (MSP) fixed by the government. It was
only towards the end of the supply season, that prices
moved above the MSP of Rs 4,020 a quintal for medium
staple and Rs 4,320 a qtl for long staple in the Gujarat
spot market, thanks to aggressive procurement by gov-
ernment-owned Cotton Corporation of India. In contrast,
soybean is trading at a 25 per cent premium to the MSP,
after initially slipping below the government’s threshold
procurement price of Rs 2,850 a qtl. The government re-
cently raised the import duty on edible oils to enable a
price increase in oilseeds and edible oils. “We expect at
least 15 per cent of cotton farmers shifting towards soy-
bean this kharif season, for better realisation,” said Atul
Chaturvedi, chief executive at Adani Wilmar, producers
of the ‘Fortune’ brand of edible oil. Cotton farmers had a
bad experience last year, especially in Maharashtra, due
to an attack by the pink bollworm on the standing crop.
Around a third of the 4.2 million ha under cotton in Maha-
rashtra was hit by this. Even so, India’s total supply is esti-
mated to be nearly 400,000 bales (a bale is 170 kg) higher
at 44.18 million bales for 2017-18, than the estimated
demand of 40.1 mn bales, according to the first Cotton
Advisory Board meeting. “Cotton farmers are looking to
shift to more remunerative crops not only in Maharashtra
but also in Telangana and Andhra Pradesh. Soybean is set
to gain at least 12-15 per cent in acreage, primarily from
cotton, this kharif season,” said Atul Ganatra, spokesper-
son, Shree Radhalakshmi Cotton, a trading and exporting
entity. Currently Rs 4,700-5,500 a qtl, cotton prices moved
up during the past month when export demand emerged
COTTON REPORT
By Mr. Dilip from Raja Industries

COTTON REPORT
suddenly from Bangladesh, China and Pakistan. However,
farmers in general had already sold their entire stock and
did not benefit. Earlier, prompted by falling prices, CCI
bought a record amount of 1.2 mn bales this year, com-
pared to only 150,000 bales last year. Soybean is now at
Rs 3,738 a qtl at the benchmark Gujarat mandi, about 23
per cent higher than its MSP of Rs 3,050 a quintal (includ-
ing Rs 200 as bonus). In March, the central government
raised the import duty on crude palm oil (CPO) and re-
fined oil (refined, bleached and deodorised or RBD palm-
olein) to 44 per cent and 54 per cent, from the earlier 30
per cent and 40 per cent, respectively. With this third such
increase in the past seven months, the basic import duty
has increased by almost sixfold on CPO and fourfold on
RBD palmolein. Before the first such increase in August
2017, the basic import duty on CPO and RBD palmolein
stood at 7.5 per cent and 15 per cent, respectively. Over
and above, a 10 per cent social welfare cess is also levied
on the basic import tax. The effective import duty on ed-
ible oil, however, is much lower than the one demanded
by the industry of 70 per cent on CPO and 55 per cent on
RBD palmolein, with 15 per cent of differential duty.
The Global Fabrics Resource Research Centre (GFRRC)
of Southern Gujarat chamber of commerce and Industry
will organise three days “Yarn Expo” in August first week
in Surat. Yarn Manufacturers and Suppliers across the
country will show their different product range of yarns
in the exhibition.
The daily grey fabrics production capacity of Surat is
round 40 million meters. In this exhibiton the weavers of
the city will get a chance to interact with new quality of
yarns and new emerging markets.
GFRRC chairman Girdhar Gopal Mundra said the exhibi-
tors from china, vietnam and maldives will also take part
in this event. More than 300 yarn manufacturers and sup-
pliers will showcase their latest collection of natural and
blended yarns. The three days yarn expo will keep on dis-
play a full sectrum of quality yarn and fibre product, such
as natural and blended yarns, man-made fibers and yarns
as well as speciality yarns to accommodate all kinds of
sourcing needs.
Powerloom weavers worried about burning yarn pric-
es
The powerloom weavers of Surat are worried lot as the
prices of synthetic yarn are increasing continously. Dur-
ing last month, the spinners have increased yarn prices
upto Rs 20/kg. The prices of various deniers of crimp and
roto yarn rose by 15% to 20% in the local market. Yarn
industry sources said the sudden rise in prices of crude oil
in the past few days, has incresed the operating cost and
this has result in hike in yarn prices. With increased prices
of cruid oil, PTA MEG, the cost of making of synthetic
yarn is increasing and this has led to price hike in yarn.
Powerloom sources said, inspite of GST rate cut, spinners
are operating a price cartel to pressurise the weavers.
During a month, the prices of various deniers of crimp and
roto yarn rose by Rs.20/kg. in local market. Furthermore,
in the first sale May month, the spinners has increased
the POY-yarn prices by Rs.4/kg. The current selling price
of 80 crimp yarn is 116-118/kg. which was at 100-102/
kg. in the April month. The prices of 80/72 semidal Roto
reached at 119/Kg increased almost by 15% in the last
one and half month.
The crude oil price rise has a direct impact on the MMF
industry. At present, the crude prices is $75 per barrel,
which is likely to increase soon. The weaving sector would
face tough days. Textile industry sources said, GST tax
regime has hit the textile industry drastically. The entire
production chain from yarn to finished fabrics is dis-
turbed. The daily four crore meter fabric production has
come down to 2.5 crore meter.
More than 2000 applications pending : South Gujarat
textile units waiting for TUF subsidy
Hundreds of textile entrepreneurs of South Gujarat are
worried over the pending files seeking subsidy under the
Technology Upgradation Fund (TUF) scheme. Industry
Sources said that more than 2000 applications are pend-
ing under RR-TUF and A-TUF subsidy sanction from last
two years.
In a recently organised technical cum monitoring com-
mittee meeting, various textile associations have made
representations to the textile commissioner for the clear-
ance of the pending applications belonging to the entre-
preneurs in the Surat and South Guuarat. The textile en-
trepreneurs have taken benefits under the TUFs making
full payments for the upgraded machinery. But from the
past two years, the entrepreneurs are still awaiting the
subsidy amount to be released under the scheme.
Textile entrepreneurs want the Technology Upgrada-
tion Fund (TUF) subsidy released on time. They say if this
doesn’t happen hundreds of textile units in the country
would shut down.
The amended TUF scheme would give a boost to Make
in India in the textile sector and is expected to attract in-
vestments to the tune of Rs one lakh crores and create
over three million additional jobs over a period of seven
years. The objective of the Technology Upgradation Fund
scheme is to leverage investments in technology upgra-
dation in the textile industry.
GFRRC to organise three days “Yarn Expo” in August
SURAT REPORT

PROCESSING OF INGEO FIBRE IN TEXTILE INDUSTRIES
The desirable physical and /or technical properties of the
existing melt spun fibres as well as solution spun fibres
can be achieved by appropriate control and /or modifica-
tion in the spinning and post spinning operations and /
or modifications in the polymeric materials used for spin-
ning .On this assumption, by making the melt spinning as
well as solution spinning system more versatile, different
types of fibres can be produced.
Fibre Innovation Technology, Inc. ( F.I.T) has become the
first North American fibres manufacturer to offer Ingeo, a
breakthrough material that allows man-made fibres to be
derived from 100% annually renewable resources. They
have signed an agreement with Cargill Dow LLC to pro-
duce and sell Ingeo fibres in North America and selected
Asian markets. In January 2003, Cargill Dow LLC intro-
duced Ingeo fibre to the textile world.
Ingeo, the fibres start life as a plant such as corn. Plant
sugars are fermented and turned into a high performance
polymer known as polylactide. Ingeo is the brand name
given to the man-made fibre, produced from polylactic
acid (PLA). It is made annually renewable natural sources
such as corn, and being fully compostable. PLA has been
of interest for many years in a limited way, mainly in med-
ical applications. But now Cargill Dow has established the
technology and is being used for various textile end uses.
Combined with the increasing consumer understanding
of the importance of the various environmental advan-
tages - renewable resources, minimizing the use of fossil
fuels, compostability, reduced greenhouse gas emissions
– the scope for such a fibre is most exciting, both com-
mercially and technically. An Ingeo fibre has permeated
the conscience of the apparel world across the globe and
through the supply chain embodying a new approach to-
wards environmental responsibility as a lifestyle philoso-
phy for the future. Ingeo fibres represent a new brand
concept based on the principles of sustainability – eco-
nomic viability, social responsibility and environmental
soundness. Ingeo claims to represent the world’s first
man-made derived from 100% annually renewable re-
sources. Imagine a polymer used to make everything from
packaging and consumer goods to fibres for apparel and
furnishings, derived from renewable resources instead
of oil. Polymer that offers more disposable options and
is more environmentally friendly to manufacture than
traditional petroleum based plastics. Derived from 100%
annually renewable resources such as corn, the product,
Nature Works polymer, is the world‘s first polymer show-
ing a significant reduction in greenhouse gas emissions.
Manufacturing - The process to make Ingeo fibres is
based on the fermentation of simple plant sugars to cre-
ate a proprietary polymer which is spun into a fibre. In
other words the man-made fibre is created by convert-
ing corn into a polymer which is spun into a fibre. The
polymer is known as polylactide or Natureworks PLA. The
ingeo fibre is extruded from Natureworks PLA and then
manufactured into filaments, staple fibre etc.
Yarns, fabrics and garments made from Ingeo fibres can
be processed on conventional machinery through all of
the manufacturing stages; there is no need for any capital
investment in plant. In many of the downstream process-
ing sectors –fibre spinning, yarn spinning, fabric produc-
tion and dyeing and finishing - Ingeo fibre is comparable
with polyester. Both are available in filament and staple
form ; they are melt spun ; weaving and knitting set-up
conditions are similar; fabrics can be heat treated to give
dimensional stability and they are both dyed with dis-
perse dyes .
Properties of Ingeo fibres - Ingeo fibre combines the
qualities of natural and synthetic fibres in a new way.
Strength and resilience are balanced with comfort, soft-
ness and drape in textiles. Amazingly, and in addition, In-
geo fibre is naturally flame retardant and has good mois-
ture management characterstics .It has got good stain
resistance properties. Ingeo fibre balances strength and
resilience with comfort, softness and drape in textiles. In-
geo also uses no chemical additives or surface treatments
T
echnology breakthrough always is the source of inspirations and advantages. It re-
places the older generation of technology and induces linear, step by step strategy
of technology substitution. The technology fusion approach is non-linear, compli-
mentary and co-operative; blends incremental technical improvements from several pre-
viously separate fields of technology to create new and innovative products. Owing to the
continuous development of new fields of application as well the claim of an increased
economy, special products and corresponding techniques are getting momentum. Tech-
nology breakthrough creates and produces new and innovative products by different di-
versifications in the existing spinning technology.
Dr .N.Mahapatra
President, COLORANT LTD
SUSTAINABLE FIBRE

and amazingly, is naturally flame retardant. Ingeo fibre
stain resistance properties make it an ideal carpet fibre
for the home, the office and transportation. However it
is important to recognize that both fibres are unique and
do behave differently .This recognition is now confirmed
by the fact that PLA (also called Ingeo) is acknowledged
in both the USA and Europe as a generic fibre in its own
right.
The melting point of PLA is 170 deg c. The heatseting is
done at 125-130 deg c for 30 secs. Hydrolysis degradation
of the polymer will occur, particularly under combined
aqueous high-temperature and alkaline conditions. The
degree of hydrolysis is influenced by time, temperature
and pH, and can be safely controlled by modification of
the dyeing and finishing processes.
Dyeing and Finishing of Ingeo fibres – As always with
any new fibre ,the pretreatment ,dyeing and finishing
processes need special attention ,mainly in meeting the
needs of the fast-moving ,fashion –driven , performance
–demanding apparel sector. PLA fibre is dyed at 110-115
deg c as compared to PET fibre which is dyed at 130-135
deg c. It is found that the individual dye shades are hyp-
sochromic and brighter than on polyester fibre, and show
a greater variation in exhaustion levels. For accurate and
successful dyeing, the dyeing behavior on an Ingeo sub-
strate must be understood. During the last two years,
major dye companies like Dystar and Clariant have iden-
tified a range of selected disperse dyes, showing good
exhaustion and leveling /migration properties on Ingeo
fibres ( like Disperse Yellow 54 , Disperse red 60 ,Disperse
blue 56 etc) .Dystar has recently published an Ingeo
Fibre Coloration Pack which gives comprehensive details
about selected dyes and the processing parameters for
Ingeo fibre and blends. ( like Dianix Crimson SF , Dianix
Luminous Red G , Dianix Yellow Brown CC , Dianix Rubine
CC and Dianix Blue K- FBL ).
Ingeo fibre is generally sufficiently clean to only require
a mild scour; still then to ensure the complete removal of
spinning oils, fabric processing lubricants, etc. If a bleach
treatment is to be used for dyeing bright pale shades,
then a mild process as below is adequate
ƒ Soda ash – 3 gpl
ƒ Hydrogen Peroxide (35 %) – 3 ml/lit.
ƒ Stabilizer -0.5 gpl.
ƒ Wetting agent – 1 gpl
ƒ Run at 95 dig c for 30 mins
ƒ Hot wash- cold wash –neutralize.
If a fabric is to be bleached than add Optical Whitener at
110 deg c. Like disperse dyes only selected Optical Whit-
ener‘s are used.
The normal dyeing temperature is 110 deg c for 30 mins,
but in dark shades the temperature is raised to 115 deg c
to increase the colour depth and better exhaustion. But
care should be taken not to give more hold time at high
temperature which may lead to loss of fibre strength.
Levelness of shade is not a problem in Ingeo fibre dyeing.
Still then the dye selection and process parameters set-
ting should be careful.
For light and medium shades slight soaping is required
after dyeing process but in case of dark and heavy dark
shades reduction cleaning is required. It may be as fol-
lows
a. Alkali reduction clearing.
b. Acid reduction clearing.
Both the above processes have to be followed in such a
way to avoid hydrolysis degradation.
The process for alkali reduction clearing is
ƒ Soda ash – 2 gpl.
ƒ Sodium hydrosulphite (hydros) - 2 gpl.
ƒ Run at 60 deg c for 15 mins.
This leads to no significant change in shade and better
wash fastness. But in acidic reduction clearing (use Cy-
loconon ECO (BASF) – 1-2 gpl at pH 4-5) will give less
fibre hydrolysis and is considered more environmentally
positive.
Wash and light fastness results tend to be slightly lower,
compared to the same shade on standard polyester.
Blending with Ingeo fibre -- The most common blend is
with cotton like Cotton/Ingeo 70/30 .Besides Ingeo fibre
is also blended with wool and silk in various proportions.
There is real potential of Wool/Ingeo fabric blends be-
cause not only of the positive environmental benefits
, but also due to their compatible physical stretch and
recovery properties .As fabrics in 100% Ingeo fibre and
Ingeo fibre blends continue to be developed by the mills
,then similarly the amount of technical knowledge on
spinning ,dyeing and finishing is being expanded .
While dyeing Ingeo /Cotton blends care should be taken
of the potential cumulative hydrolysis effect due to high
temperature alkaline conditions while bleaching and dye-
ing of cotton portion. So in such cases the cotton portion
is bleached using TAED ( tetra acetyl ethylene diamine )
at a neutral or slightly acidic pH which leads to minimum
hydrolysis degradation of the PLA fibre . Normally Bifunc-
tional and Vinyl Sulphone reactive dyes are recommend-
ed for dyeing of cotton portion.
An alternative process for dyeing cotton portion is to use
after-treated direct dyes. Such an application is done as a
single stage all-in dyeing. Direct dyes have the following
advantages in dyeing Ingeo/cotton blends
a. They are not applied from an alkaline medium and
therefore do not cause degradation.
b. A shorter and straighter forward dye cycle.
c. Good all round colour fastness including dark shades
SUSTAINABLE FIBRE

,by using a cationic after treatment such as Sirius B (
Dystar )
A use of Ingeo fibres - Due to various inherent proper-
ties Ingeo fibre is ideally suited to fabrics from fashion to
furnishings. An Ingeo fibre is ideally suited for a range
of textile products and applications where it competes
with traditional fibres on a price and performance basis.
It is also used for an ideal fibre for the home, the office
and transportation. In nonwovens, Ingeo fibre can pro-
duce a whole unique new family of compostable products
without compromising performance. Imagine a dispos-
able diaper that is also completely biodegradable so that
no waste is left to contaminate the earth .In fiberfill , for
products such as pillows , duvets , comforters and pad-
ded outerwear , Ingeo fibres superior loft means that it
feels more like down than a synthetic imitation. In indus-
trial applications Ingeo fibres can be used for geotextiles,
agrotextiles and special filtration media. Its consumer
uses include carpets, garments, bedding and furnishings
Global garment manufacturers around the world are us-
ing Ingeo fibres understanding that the fashion and ap-
parel of today need to be conscientiously driven, allowing
the consumer to enjoy nature while knowing they are also
looking after it.
The other name for Ingeo fibres is PLA fibres (polylactide
fibre) which is being used successfully in apparel, furnish-
ings, fubrefill, floorcoverings, industrial (geo and agro tex-
tiles) and nonwovens (diapers, hygine products, wipes)
The innovative and revolutionary Ingeo fibre represents a
voice for this new trend that nurtures environmental re-
sponsibility and sustainability bringing it to the forefront
of fashion’s conscience. The Ingeo /cotton blends 70/30
are used for Trousers, Belted Fiberfill jacket and normal
jacket. In addition to the menswear, the use also includes
garments for women, including Capri pants, gilet, trou-
sers and T-shirt.
In India textile companies like Raymond’s, RSWM, Nahar
and Vardhman have started using Ingeo fibres in various
blends and selling it as value added item and getting a
premium. Lastly Ingeo will soon establish itself as a main-
stream fibre and truly the fibre for the 21 st century.
Acknowledgement – The author is thankful to Mr Sub-
hash Bhargava FSDC (UK) Technocrat and Founder, Color-
ant Ltd for giving permission to publish this article.
COLLEGE FOCUS
Preamble:
Centre for Textile Functions with new concept in engi-
neering education by Textile Industry participation in
Education
There is wide gap between the Technology available in
the Industry and Technology practical’s conducted in the
educational Institutes. Idea is to bridge the gap between
the industry and education by giving practical exposure
to the students in present Technology in the Industry.
India is producing large pool of scientist and technolo-
gist from various field Viz; EXTC, IT, computer, Mechanical
Civil Textiles, Pharmacy etc. NMIMS has established few
campuses in India.
Industry expectation from the fresh graduates is applica-
tion of present scientific knowledge to develop innovative
technology and use new technology by creating infra-
structure, goods, and services for
Only small percentage of the Engineers and profession-
al are able to meet this expectation since there is wide
gap between Industry and academy in India. Almost 90 %
need training and work exposure.
Growth of nation is measured in terms of annual GDP. In-
dia has to go for large scale manufacturing in Engineering
Industries. To support this India is promoting investment
in infrastructure development, application of electronic,
computer IT in all sectors to promote Engineering In-
dustries. Any new Technology application needs Trained
Technical man power. Establishment of new Industries
need large pool of trained technical personnel’s. Hence
large no of educational Institutes are established with
private sector participation. These educational institute
need to associate with Industry for practical exposure to
develop basic technical knowledge in students to work in
different Technology and projects. Hence create an op-
portunity for their talent pool in the country by Industry
–Institute linkage.
Industry – Institute linkage
To bridge the gap between Industry and education it is
proposed to seek cooperation in following area.
TEXTILE INDUSTRY PARTICIPATION IN ENGINEERING EDUCATION IS THE
NEED OF THE HOUR IN DEVELOPING TEXTILE INDUSTRY.
SUSTAINABLE FIBRE

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