Textile Value Chain- Nov 2021

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TVC | Nov 2021
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INTERVIEWS:
• Mr. Viktor Lazzeri, Barbieri
• Dr. Suranjana Gangopadhay, HOD, VJTI
MARKET REPORT:
• MMF TRADE DATA
NOVEMBER 2021 TECHNICAL TEXTILES
Military Textiles:
The Scope and Future

7
TVC | Nov 2021
CONTENTS
ADVERTISER INDEX
COVER STORY
Back Page: Raymond
Back Inside: Raysil
Front Inside: Rimtex
Page 3: BIRLA CELLULOSE
Page 4: SITEX 2022
Page 5: COLORJET
Page 6: UDYOG 202
Page 11: Meera Industries
DENIM FUSION
MACHINES AND PROCESSES
FASHION FOCUS
NEWS UPDATE
09 Military Textiles: The Scope and Future
12 Techtextil India 2021: Foreign Investment
Opportunities in Tamil Nadu
12 PROCESSING OF FLAME-RETARDANT TEXTILES
IN INDUSTRIES
17 India’s Exports of Technical Textiles
Witnessed a Hike
19 Despite Covid-19 disruption, capacity use of
TEI dips to only 46% from 49%
30 SUSTAINABILITY, A MAJOR THEME AT
INNOVATE 2021
TEXTILE MACHINERY
39Stäubli at SITEX 2022 Surat International Textile
Expo
42AMALGAMATION OF DENIM WITH INDIAN
CRAFTS & TEXTILES
49 How Festivals Influence Indian Fashion
Industry
27 $2 bn Import Substitution Scope for TEI: Varun
Sood
EVENT CALENDAR
21 Citation of Export Excellence and R&DAwards
26 ROADMAP FOR ATMANIRBHAR BHARAT IN
TEXTILE MACHINERY MOOTED
INTERVIEW
33 Spectro LFP qb, a Cutting-edge Technology
of Barbieri
35 Textile Industry “Entering a More Mature
Stage”
37 Picanol launches new “Connect”
generation airjet & rapier weaving machines
63
Show calendar
51 Handloom Textiles of Odisha: History and
Types
53“Better Industrial Practices for Improved
Productivity” by CTF
POST EVENT REPORT
55CanvaLoop: Creating Natural &
Bio-degradable Fibre from Himalayan Hemp
58GSCS International Offers Certifications &
Audits
60Over 20,000 visitors at HGH India 2021
61
Trends 2021-22
62
MMF- Trade statistics
HGH TREND BOOK
MARKET UPDATE
Page 25: Amritlakshmi
Page 29: Sakthi Inustries
Page 32: Unitech Texmach
Page 41: Bishnu Exports
Page 47: KEN
Page: 54: OMAX
Page: 59: Mahalaxmi Ceramics

8 TVC | Nov 2021
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EDITORIAL TEAM
Natural fibres need more research on functionalities because these
fibres are being increasingly used in technical textiles. Cotton and
jute need to be explored. All fibres cannot be used to produce tech-
nical textiles because of their mechanical and chemical properties.
Some fibres have been selected for making technical textile for their
special properties. Sustainability in technical textiles is emerging as
a potential area. Sisal fibre largely imported from South Africa holds
out scope. Product and technology should match. Innovation out of
raw materials is less than what is required in today’s vast growing
market. Renewable fibres are a great asset in this field.
Suresh Kotak’s formula is:Identify functions, go back and find out
the right natural fibre. Cotton—its function came by itself, and to-
day China has stolen a march over many others in wipes & masks.
Another example is by coating cotton with some materials, it can
be converted into a material for various repellents. In India, minds
are traditional bound. Bamboo fibres are an insecticide, naturally.
A cotton research body has 39 innovative uses, but has not been ap-
proached for commercial purpose. Cotton coated with acrylic is used
for conveyor belts. In order to bring down the cost of production of
some new material, innovation in technology is a prerequisite.
Environmental damages are made by materials like plastics. An al-
ternative with cotton and other natural fibres can be tried out. For
instance, why still jute and PP are used for packaging cotton bales,
resulting in contamination. A good cotton packaging material can be
realised by R&D. Super Hybridisation must be part of our vision. To
achieve all these, we should incentivise inventions. Innovations from
institutions like VJTI and CIRCOT must be encouraged.
During the last few years, the use of technical textiles has made
rapid strides. Natural, synthetic, and high-performance fibres are
being used in many technical textile applications. The application
and use of natural, synthetic, and high-performance fibres and for
Indutech, Hometech, Clothtech, Buildtech, Packtech, and Oekotech.
As the strength of natural fibres is not so good, the use of synthetic
and high-performance fibres is increasing in industrial and techni-
cal products. One of the major applications of technical textiles is in
the filtration media. The performance of a specific filter is based on
the selection of fibre, textile material, and the way they have been
assembled. The properties of fluid for which the filter has to be de-
signed must be considered carefully as well. Human beings have been
using regular clothing to protect themselves from a very hot and cold
environment. The workers in some occupations (like military, po-
lice, firefighting, and healthcare) are exposed to different hazards,
so they are required to wear protecting textile clothing. Today the
people around the world have become more educated with higher liv-
ing standards. Therefore, the use of high technology products, which
offer enhanced performance, durability, hygienic conditions, and aes-
thetic, has become the need of the day. The demand for eco-friendly
and bio-degradable packaging is growing now as they have a great
impact on human health and the environment. The use of natural
fibres for environmental protection is not new. While the use of syn-
thetic and high-performance fibres for environmental protection is
a revolutionary change in the current century. One of its uses is in
protecting the crops and soil artificially by weather changes to in-
crease productivity. The new and advanced developments for envi-
ronmental protection will keep on increasing across the world in the
coming years. The scope for natural fibres, of which India has plenty,
is increasing too.
More R&D in Natural
Fibres is Need of the Hour
CREATIVE DESIGNER
Ms. Poiyamozhi P S
CONTENT WRITER
Ms. Somasree Roy
ADVISOR - EDITORIAL & MARKETING
Mr. Samuel Joseph

9
TVC | Nov 2021
Military Textiles:
The Scope and Future
TVC Editorial Team
T
echnical textiles are fabrics that are made for a particular
function. They are used due to their unique characteris-
tics and technical capabilities. Military, marine, industrial,
medical, and aerospace are just a few of the areas where these
materials are used. For a wide range of applications, the military
sector is highly reliant on technical textiles.
Severe climatic situations, abrupt body movements, and dead-
ly atomic or chemical reactions are all protected by the fabrics,
which are specifically tailored for the soldiers. Furthermore, the
utility of technical textiles doesn’t really end there. The useful-
ness of such fabrics has long been acknowledged for improving
fighter efficiency and saving people’s lives in battle.
Following World War II, this industry experienced significant de-
velopment and growth. The progress of textile technology has led
to significant improvements in military uniforms nowadays. The
military uniform has evolved into an integral element of their
fighting gear, also serving as a means of protection.
Smart textiles are increasingly integrating with service eco-
systems that extend further than the typical horizontal textile
supply chain. It is intended to expand the material and tangible
qualities of technical textiles to intangible characteristics derived
from services like the ability to measure and store information
and adjust a material’s usefulness over time.
In a Webinar conducted by Techtextil India 2021, Yogesh Gaik-
wad, Director of SDC International Limited said, “When we talk
about military textiles, it covers a lot of spectrums such as appar-
els, helmets, tents, gears. The top 10 militaries have around 100
million soldiers and at least 4-6 meters of fabrics are required
per soldier. Around 15-25% are repeat orders for replacing the
damages or worn-out pieces. Camouflage and protection, secure
locations and logistics (Rucksacks bags) are three major areas
where military textiles are used.”
Major Drivers Behind Market Demand for Military Tex-
tiles:
» Military officials all throughout the world make considerable
use of technical textiles. Textile-based materials combining
nanotechnology and electronics are essential in the creation
of high-tech military clothing and supplies. Active and in-
telligent textiles, when combined with technology, have the
potential to increase a soldier’s efficiency by detecting and
adjusting to the pre-set condition, as well as reacting to sit-
uational needs.
» Armed personnel will be able to complete all of their tasks
with fewer equipment and less burden thanks to technolog-
ical solutions. Uniforms with smart fabrics have a unique
power source. It permits military to carry a single battery
rather than multiple batteries, reducing the number of wires
needed in their gear.
Talking about the market demand, Mr. Gaikwad further said,
“One of the major purchases of ministry of defence is camouflage
textiles as the survival of the soldiers depends on this fabric. The
purpose of camouflage is to blend the combat suit and equipment
to the natural surroundings as well as reduce the visibility of
soldiers and tools.
Camouflage textiles are of two types – with IR (Infrared) spec-
ification and without IR specification. Such materials can also
obscure a person’s vision in UV and infrared light from a certain
range. Furthermore, nanotechnology is being used to produce
new technological fibres that can stimulate muscular strength,
giving soldiers additional power when performing difficult tasks.
The newly designed zero permeability parachute material has an
incredible ability to function with high safety and efficiency.”
Physical Properties of Military Textiles:
» The attire of military personnel must be made of light-
weight fire- and UV light resistant-fabric. Designed for engi-
neers who operate in hot environments, it should be able to
control the odour.
» It has to be biodegradable, water repellent and durable.
» The fabric should be breathable, chemically protected
» Military apparel should also be able to keep them warm and
buoyant.
There are many more parameters to be considered while making
the military textiles.
Fibres that could provide solutions:
» Para-Aramid
COVER STORY
Image Source: wikimedia.org

10 TVC | Nov 2021
» Modacrylic
» Aromatic Polyamide Fibres
» Flame Retardant Viscose
» Nanotechnology-enabled Fibre
» Carbon Fibre
» High Modules Polyethylene (UH MPE)
» Glass Fibre
» Bi-Component Knit Construction
» Gel Spun Polyethylene
Competitive Market Analysis of Military Textiles:
The marketplace is quite competitive. Companies compete on
improved smart textile performance, cost-effective technologies,
quality of products, durability, and market share. Suppliers must
deliver cost-effective and high-quality goods and services to sur-
vive and prosper in this climate.
Governments across the globe have put a great priority on pro-
viding their forces with the most up-to-date equipment and facili-
ties, especially advanced military gear. As a result, the worldwide
technical textiles for defence market have grown. Smart textiles
have improved the efficiency and features of military apparels by
increasing aspects such as maximising camouflage, incorporating
technologies into the garments, reducing the weight carried, and
boosting ballistic protection utilising cutting-edge technologies.
Application Segment of the Military Smart Textiles Mar-
ket:
Camouflage, power harvest, temperature monitoring & control,
security & mobility, health monitoring, etc. are some of the ap-
plications that the worldwide military smart textiles market can
be divided into.
By 2027, the worldwide military smart textiles market is expect-
ed to be dominated by the camouflage sector.
Energy harvesting, temperature monitoring & control, and
health monitoring categories are likely to increase at a robust
pace during the predicted period, creating considerable incre-
mental possibilities. Other sectors are expected to grow at a me-
dium to high rate in the coming years in terms of quantity.
According to a UK Publication, A “smart” skin influenced by
chameleons which changes colour depending on the light might
be the future of military camouflage. As per researchers, the
revolutionary material may also be useful in anti-counterfeiting
activities.
Chameleons and neon tetra fish, for example, can change their
colours to disguise themselves, attract a partner, or scare attack-
ers, according to the researchers.
Experts have attempted to recreate similar characteristics in
synthetic “smart” skins, but the substances used have still not
proven to be durable.
Regional Analysis of Military Textiles:
Asia, particularly growing countries like India and China, has
seen a significant rise in the military sector. In the APAC region,
defence budget is increasing at one of the fastest rates throughout
the world. Combined with the need to prepare military soldiers
for modern combat, large sums of money have been invested in
new military equipment as well as improved military apparel.
Asia Pacific leads the worldwide market demand for military,
smart textiles. Europe and the US come in second and third posi-
tion, respectively. The market of military textiles in North Amer-
ica is expected to grow as the nation’s textile sector expands. The
textile industry employs 6% of the entire manufacturing work-
force in Europe. The United Kingdom spent 21 billion pounds in
2019-2020 in this sector. Thus, the market in Europe is predicted
to grow as the textile industry in Europe expands.
Military Camouflage
Image Source: made-in-china.com

11
TVC | Nov 2021
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12 TVC | Nov 2021
Techtextil India 2021: Foreign Investment Opportunities
in Tamil Nadu
TVC Editorial Team
A
fter two years, Techtextil India 2021
opened on 25th November in Mumbai,
bringing together the technical textile
sector. The trade event featured a variety of ed-
ucational seminars, live product demonstrations,
as well as B2B meetups to highlight the future
prospects of technical textiles. Ajit Chavan, secre-
tary of the Textiles Committee, opened the trade
event. The trade fair took place in both physical
and hybrid edition.
According to a press release from show organiser
Messe Frankfurt India, the goal of the revised edi-
tion first post-lockdown—is to encourage indus-
try cohesion and help economic recovery through-
out the value chain of technical textiles.
“The policies of Indian government are complete-
ly intended for the development of technical tex-
tiles. We have fixed a target of Rs. 2 lakh crores
for the nation, and the Indian market is prepared
to meet that goal.
“Our country have a great deal of potential in
Image source: indiantextilemagazine.in
COVER STORY

13
TVC | Nov 2021
medtech and agrotech, and we have always been
always been at the forefront of packtech, geotech,
as well as other high-tech fields,” Chavan stated
during the inaugural ceremony.
The three-day trade event featured top technical
textile businesses from Tamil Nadu and through-
out the country. The Tamil Nadu government an-
nounced a strong partnership with Messe Frank-
furt India for the 2021 edition, adding that this
will promote textile policy and investment oppor-
tunities at the expo in way to lure enterprises and
investors to the state.
“Although, there are numerous natural benefits
for the development of technical textiles in Ta-
mil Nadu particularly, majority of raw materials
required to make artificial ligaments, seat belt
webbings, sanitary items, and airbags are still
imported. In this scenario, by working alongside
international technical textiles firms, the Tech-
textil India Group can assist us in reducing de-
pendence on imports and attracting r&d invest-
ments, production, and innovation.” said Ms.
Pooja Kulkarni, MD & CEO, Guidance Tamil
Nadu.
During the Techtextil India webinar session on
‘Investment opportunities in Tamil Nadu’, she
also said, “Tamil Nadu is the top investment
destination of India due to the state’s advanced
infrastructure, network capacity, strong indus-
trial base, skilled manpower as well as location-
al advantages and connectivity that cater to its
well-established manufacturing ecosystems and
facilitate exports.”
She further added, “33% of all textile business in
India comes from Tamil Nadu itself. Tamil Nadu
accounts for 28% of the total employment in the
textile sector of India. The state is also leading
manufacturer and exporter of cotton yarns in In-
dia.
Coimbatore, Tirupur, Karur which were the hub
for natural fibre are now also strongly growing
into man-made fibres. Also, during the pandemic
situation last year, the region was a great sup-
port in quickly adopting to manufacturing PPEs
and masks. The local manufacturers were quickly
able to scale up their operations as well as new
operators came in and they beat the demand for
PPEs. Therefore, the region has now a strong
presence MedTech.”
Ms. Pooja also talked about some attracting tech-
nical textiles investments to Tamil Nadu which
include Technical Textile investment worth
Rs. 1771 Cr. and Textile investment worth Rs.
2170.04 Cr. The overall investments in Tamil Na-
du’s textile sector totalled Rs. 3,941.04 Cr.
Jayashree Spun Bond, Cyber Textiles India Pvt.
Ltd., Lenzing Ag India, Loyal Textile Mills Ltd.,
Liester Technologies, Uster Technologies (India)
Pvt. Ltd. and Milltex Engineers Pvt. Ltd., are
among the technical textile companies from Ta-
mil Nadu who attended this important trade fair.
“The state excels in Agrotech, Meditech, Cloth-
tech, Buildtech, and “ Ms. Kulkarni stated, em-
phasizing Tamil Nadu’s proficiency in technical
textiles.
Tamil Nadu’s automotive ecosystem is well posi-
tioned to attract high-value, high-technology Mo-
biltech investment, as it has India’s largest auto-
mobile and auto-component hub.
Likewise, Tamil Nadu is home to half of India’s
textile factories, as well as related hubs of knit-
ting, weaving, and medical equipment manufac-
ture in Coimbatore and Tirupur. Production in
India can be a huge victory for companies because
investments in Tamil Nadu will give them access
to a growing market.”
The Market in India for technical textiles, valued
at USD 19 billion, is increasing at a CAGR of 12%,
3 times quicker than the global pace, showing
great export potential. The Government of Tamil
Nadu recently announced a budget that prioritis-
es infrastructure building for the textile industry,
with special emphasis on upcoming technical tex-
tile parks in Karur and Virudhunagar.
Reference:
Webinar conducted by Techtextil India 2021

14 TVC | Nov 2021
T
he term flame retardant is used to describe fabrics
which will not support combustion and are self-ex-
tinguishing. Fabrics of this type, when involved in
an accidental fire would not contribute to spreading the
flames. Other descriptions, such as flame proof, fire proof
and flame resistant, are either meaningless or misleading.
Nearly all fabrics are combustible to some degree. The rate
of burning ranges from that of guncotton (nitrocellulose),
which burns so quickly that it produces an explosion, to
that of asbestos, which is virtually unaffected by fire.
Flame retardant fabrics can be produced in two ways.
1. by making them of fibres which do not burn.
2. by chemically treating the fibres to produce the desired
effect.
There was a time originally when such materials could
only be produced by employing a chemical finish. Howev-
er, this can often cause problems in terms of durability
of the process and its impact on the environment. Strict
controls are required to achieve consistency and problems
arise likewise with the final look of the material. Even
where the flame-retardant quality is guaranteed over a
certain number of washes, there can be no certainty of the
effectiveness of the procedure, as it is practically impossi-
ble to monitor the number of washes in practice.
All such difficulties are avoided by the use of permanently
modified chemical fibres. The polymer was invented in
1974. The development of staple fibres and filament took
place in 1976-79. It was introduced in the USA in 1979 and
Europe in 1980. The permanent flame-retardant proper-
ties were due to the organic phosphorous compound in-
corporated into the polymer chain. As it was a low-level
modification the textile properties of the polymer remain
unchanged. Fire Retardant polyester fibre came to India
by Hoechst AG, Germany by the trade name of Trevira CS
(CS stands for Comfort and Safety).
From the outset there was also a large role for home tex-
tiles; today the most important sector for Trevira. The
product range extends from drapes, decorative and uphol-
stery fabrics to carpet fibres. Yet here too, the portfolio
began to change towards specialities early. In 1980 one
such was Trevira CS, a flame retardant fibre, which from
its launch recorded ever-rising growth rates and is today
the star product of the company. With over 1000 flame
retardant Trevira CS fabric collections for the home tex-
tiles sector worldwide, Trevira is the market leader in this
segment. Since then, the range of flame retardant fibres
and yarns has undergone a steady flow of changes and in-
novations. In 2004, Reliance crossed another milestone in
its polyester journey when it acquired Trevira GmbH, an
erstwhile division of the German giant Hoechst AG, a lead-
ing producer of branded polyester fibres in Europe.
Specific moisture absorption of Trevira is around 0.4%
at 20 deg C and 65% RH. It can however be made consid-
erably higher by the hydrophilic surface of the material
and the capillary effect between the fibres. Moisture pen-
etration is very high, thus releasing humidity, something
very important for instance for sitting comfortably. Trevi-
ra CS has been tested to German, American and Japanese
health standards and being adjudged non-toxic, not aller-
genic or mutagenic and non-irritant. The Eco-Tex 100 test
confirms that Trevira CS is free from harmful substances.
Trevira CS has three flame retardant mechanisms like
it melts away from the flame, absorbing ignition energy.
Flame retardant groups quench reactive species, chain re-
action cannot propagate. The polyester modification creat-
ed by Trevira performs a very important function. Within
a flame, highly charged elements called radicals are re-
leased which rapidly propagate more flames. The Trevira
modification captures and neutralises the radicals before
they can propagate more flames. Trevira belongs to the
polyester group of fibres, which are rendered permanently
flame-retardant by the inclusion of a small proportion of a
phosphorous-organic component. They display all the typ-
ical properties of polyester fibres and offer industry and
consumer considerable advantages. Hoechst (Germany)
gave the licence only to Rajasthan Spinning and Weaving
mills, Gulabpura (Rajasthan) to use this fibre in India.
Trevira supplies 100% Trevira flame retardant fibres or
filament yarns.
Trevira CS fabrics are made from flame retardant fibres
and used therefore in the home textile and contract fur-
nishing sectors. They are flame retardant to all appropri-
ate fire protection requirements and produce only slight
amounts of smoke fume. For the first time, the flame re-
tardant qualities combine with bioactive properties to also
provide safety from microbes. These qualities are not lost
by cleaning, ageing or wear. Trevira CS is easy care, light,
fast, comfortable and kind to the skin. Trevira CS is used
in hotels, and hospitals, offices and event rooms and prin-
cipally where people are traveling on aircraft, buses on
PROCESSING OF FLAME-RETARDANT TEXTILES
IN INDUSTRIES
Dr N.N.Mahapatra
Business Head(Dyes)
SHREE PUSHKAR CHEMICALS & FERTILISERS LTD.
Mumbai, India
COVER STORY

15
TVC | Nov 2021
trains and at sea.
The following are the advantages of using Trevira:
1. Outstanding running properties in spinning and twist-
ing.
2. Very good processability, high yarn uniformity and te-
nacity for weaving, circular and warp knitting.
3. Excellent dyeability using a variety of methods, environ-
mentally friendly finish processes giving crease resistant
fabrics with good shape retention.
4. Good hard-wearing properties.
5. Easy-care.
6. Outstanding light fastness.
7. Permanent flame retardance.
The following are the processes involved in making fire
retardant textiles:
1. Spinning
2. Bleaching.
3. Dyeing.
4. Finishing.
5. Printing.
The above processes are discussed as below.
1. Spinning - It is classified into two types:
a. Grey CS yarn
b. Dyed CS yar
Grey fibre is normally available in 1.4 D x 44 mm. The
spinning is done in the same manner like 100% normal
polyester fibre. The process is as follows:
Blowroom - Carding - Draw frame – Simplex - Ringframe
– Winding – TFO – Packing .
The grey yarn goes for weaving and making of soft package
for yarn dyeing.
Secondly, the dyed fibre is received from dyehouse. The
dyed fibre is sprayed with LV 40 and 2152P and condi-
tioned for 16 hrs. Then it follows the similar route in spin-
ning as prescribed for 100% dyed normal polyester fibre.
The dyed yarn is sent to weaving /knitting
Flame retardant Trevira CS spinning yarns can be used in
any spinning process, resulting in outstanding with ring
spinning, OE–rotor and airjet spinning, as well as with
carded yarns and worsteds. A variety of effects is possible
for which the product range includes dull, semi-dull and
bright types. Extremely fine three-cylinder yarns are used
in delicate fabrics, decorative materials and bed linens.
The OE–rotor yarns with a flat, soft structure form the
basis for decorative fabrics, vertical blinds and mattress
materials. The current demand for soft, transparent and
bright yarns is particularly met by filament yarns of the
high-capillary type for drapes and decorative fabrics. De-
gree of fineness range from 50 dtex with delicate goods
through to 3000 dtex for cover fabrics with high wear and
light fastness properties. With false twist yarn one can
achieve light but bulky weaves.
The wide range of fire-retardant Trevira spun yarns en-
ables spinners to offer complete collection of yarns. They
have a quality which is not only ideal for their purposes
but is fire-retardant as well. The range comprises degrees
of fineness for practically every application; from the fin-
est (1.3 >1.7 dtex) for delicate fabrics right through to the
extremely coarse (13 dtex) for carpets.
Image Source: What they think

16 TVC | Nov 2021
2. Bleaching - Bleaching is not required prior to dyeing
of dark and medium shades. It is almost white. But in case
of clear and pastel shades bleaching with peroxide is re-
quired prior to dyeing.
3. Dyeing - There are four types of dyeing.
a. Filament yarn dyeing.
b. Spun yarn dyeing
c. Loose staple fibre dyeing.
d. Fabric dyeing.
a. Filament yarn dyeing- normally 165 dtex
is used in filament dyeing. Soft package of 700-800 gm is
made on perforated polypropylene tubes by precision soft
winding machine having overfeed attachment. Then it is
dyed in HTHP Dyeing Machines at temperature of 120 deg
C for 30-45 min depending on shades.
It is Hydroextracted in Dettin package Hydroextractor. It
is dried in RF Dryer. It is rewinded on paper cone. The
dyed package goes for Weaving or Knitting. The principal
applications for flat yarns are in curtains and decorative
fabrics, irrespective of whether these are false twist, jet
–tax, jet-tweed, multicolour or chenille yarns. A further
possibility involves use of texturised filament yarns, where
a very wool-like character can be achieved with specially
air-textured types for furniture fabrics.
b. Spun yarn dyeing- Similarly spun yarn is
made in various counts ranging from 2/5, 2/8 ,2/12, 2/20,
2/24, v2/30, 2/50.Then soft package is made on PS Mettler
or SSM winding machines. Package weight is 900 gm to
1 kg. It is loaded in HTHP dyeing machines. It is dyed
at 120 deg C. The rest process is as above. An even wider
range of design perspectives is opened up by combining
filament and fibre yarns. Employing fancy yarns, such as
knit-deknit types, produces striking designs. Jet-tex and
tweed types are mainly used as upholstery and decorative
material and as wall coverings.
c. Loose staple fibre dyeing - Normally 1.7 d
x 44 mm Trevirs CS fibre are available for dyeing. The CS
fibre is loaded in the carrier. Then the loaded carrier goes
into the HTHP Dyeing Machines. It is dyed at 120 deg C
at a pH of 4-5. with a leveling agent like Lyogen DFT (of
Clariant) is added. Dark shades are reduction cleared with
Caustic Soda and Sodium Hydrosulphite. (1 gpl and 2 gpl
respectively) . Then hot wash at 85-90 deg C. Then acid
neutralised by acetic acid. Then Antistatic Agent Sapcotex
F (Henkel)– 0.4 % (o w g). Then the carrier is offloaded.
The dyed fibre goes for Hydroextraction . Then it is dried
in RF Dryer / Steam Dryer.
Total dyeing time takes about 4-4.5 hrs.
With a 40 deg C wash there are no discernible differenc-
es between normal polyester and Trevira CS fibres. At 60
deg C with the same dyeing similar values are achieved on
flame retardants as on non-modified types.
d. Fabric dyeing – Trevira CS fabric is dyed in
jet dyeing machines. The process is followed as above. Af-
ter dyeing it is squeezed and dried in stenter at a lower
temperature of 140 deg C to 150 deg C. Dispersion dyes
take on fire–retardant somewhat faster than the corre-
sponding normal polyester types. Due to these light shades
can be dyed at boiling temperature without adding carrier.
Medium to dark shades are dyed without carrier at a max-
imum temperature of 120 deg c. Disperse dyes used are
high energy dyes from Dystar, Germany known as Diani
FG dyes or Foron RD dyes from Clariant, Basle. In raw
white for piece dyeing or as multicoloured yarns, flame
retardant textiles can be made in all desired qualities. In
general dyeing with coloured and patterned fabric results
in adequate wash fastness. Preliminary tests are recom-
mended, however as there is a possibility of staining adja-
cent material. Dyes on Trevira cs are fast to washing at
boiling temperatures in bright shades and with selected
dyestuffs. A chlorine-fast finish is possible with the appro-
priate dyestuffs. Boiling is not recommended for drapes
and decorative fabrics.
4. Finishing - Selection of softeners is very critical. It has
to be seen there is no negative effects on burning behav-
iour. Leomin ni of Clariant is the recommended softener
to be used for CS fabrics in the dose level from 1 to 5 gpl.
Trevira CS materials may be coated with PVC or polyu-
rethane. An antimicrobial or fungicide finish is possible
with Dodigen (from Clariant) or Afrotin LC (the Schill and
Seilacher company). While maintaining the relevant fire
category.
Whilst being processed trevira cs fabrics can be exposed for
brief periods to temperatures above 210 deg c. where they
are exposed to temperatures for longer times, we recom-
mend a maximum of 150 deg c in dry atmospheres and 100
deg C in humid conditions. With flame-retardant types in
deep shades the fastness properties reduce bu ½ degrees as
compared to dyes on normal types.
5. Printing - Pigment printing is not recommended for
Trevirs CS fabrics because the use of binder and thicken-
ers influence the flame retardant properties negatively.
Transfer printing can be done on Trevira CS fabrics. Any
papers printed with dispersion dyestuffs can be employed.
Checks should first be made to ensure the Light Fastness
of the dyestuffs involved is adequate. Varnish should not
be used as part of the residue may adhere to the fabric in
printing and exercise a negative effect of the flame-retard-
ant behaviour on Trevira CS material
Wear properties of Trevira CS fabrics
1. Stability – very good.
2. Abrasion resistance - > 60,000 Martindale
3. Durability – very good.v
4. Light- fastness – 7-8 .
5. UV-Stability Hrs – 80% (1400 Xenotest)
6. Washability – 60 deg C.
7. Stain removal – very good.
Trevira CS fabrics satisfies all the relevant and important
fire protection standards.

17
TVC | Nov 2021
India’s Exports of Technical Textiles
Witnessed a Hike
TVC Editorial Team
T
echnical textile is a rapidly expanding
sub-segment used in a wide range of
industries. The ultimate application of
technical textiles is diverse and may be found
in sectors including agriculture, sportswear,
construction, healthcare, automobile and so
on. A few of the important factors to the de-
velopment of this market include India’s push
towards modernisation and its production ef-
ficiency.
Because of increasing market situation, tech-
nical textiles have witnessed a worldwide in-
crease in recent times. Advanced technologies,
a growth in end-use applications, cost-effec-
tiveness, resilience, customer-friendliness, and
sustainability of technical textiles have result-
ed in a rise in their market share in the global
market.
In terms of revenue, Mobiltech, Indutech,
Buildtech, Packtech, and Hometech account
for almost two-thirds of the worldwide indus-
try.
India’s Export of Technical Textiles
COVER STORY

18 TVC | Nov 2021
Technical textile makes around 13% of India’s
overall textile and garment industry and adds
0.7 per cent to India’s GDP.
India exported textile wall coverings worth
US$0.03 million in September, 2020 which
increased to US$0.05 million in September,
2021. Between January and September 2021,
the total exports were US$0.21 million, up by
58.56% from the last year.
Exports of transmission/conveyor belts/belt-
ing of textile material wh/nt impregnated coat-
ed, covered/laminated with plastics reinforced
with mettle/other material September 2020
totalled US$1.01 million which declined by
12.59% to US$0.88 million in September 2021.
By the end of September 2020, the exports
were worth US$5.27 million and it increased
to US$7.93 million in the corresponding peri-
od of next year.
Textile wicks, woven, plaited/knitted, for light-
ers, candles etc; incandescent gas mantles etc,
w/n impregnated exports which were totalled
US$0.8 million in September 2020, decreased
by US$70.74% to 0.23 million in September
2021. From January to September 2021, the to-
tal exports increased by 6.7%.
India exported Textile fabrics coated with
gum or amylaceous substances, of a kind used
for the outer covers of books or the like were
worth US$1.36 million, up by 40.04% from the
previous year. Between January and September
2021, the overall exports were up by 32.45%.
Tyre cord fabric of high tenacity yarn of ny-
lon or other polyamides, polyesters or viscose
rayon exports in September 2021 witnessed a
fall by 2.76% to US$4.48 million. By the end
of September 2020, the exports were totalled
US$27.36 million which increased to US$39.14
million at the end of September 2021.
India’s exports of Linoleum, whether or not cut
to shape; floor coverings consisting of a coat-
ing or covering applied on a textile back were
worth just US$0.01 million by the end of Sep-
tember 2021.
In September 2020, the exports of textile prod-
ucts and articles for technical uses were about
US$3.64 million and it grew by 15.64% in next
year September to US$4.21 million. Total ex-
ports between January and September 2021
were also up by 44.89% from the previous year.
Textile fabrics impregnated, coated, covered/
lamented with plastics excel those of heading
No. 5902 exports were worth US$21.21 million
in September 2020 which increased by 4.08%
in September 2021 to US$22.08 million. From
January to September 2020, the total exports
were US$139.71 million which hiked up to
US$223.48 million during the same time span
of next year, up by 59.96% from the previous
year.
India exported textile hose piping and similar
textile tubing, with or without lining, armour
oraccessoriesofothermaterialsworthUS$0.19
million during September in both years.
India’s exports of rubberised textile fabrics,
other than those of heading 5902 totalled
US$1.27 million in the month of September
2021, increased by 89.43% from the last year.
By the end of September 2021, the overall ex-
ports totalled US$9.04 million.
India exported Textile fabrics otherwise im-
pregnated, coated/covered; painted canvas
being theatrical scenery, studio back-cloths
or the like worth US$1.5 million in Septem-
ber 2020 which witnessed a spike of 12.21%
in September 2021. Between January and Sep-
tember 2020, the total exports about US$8.84
million which rose to US$15.32 million during
the corresponding time of next year.

19
TVC | Nov 2021
I
n his welcome speech, Mr.
Vallabh Thumar, Chair-
man, Textile Machinery
Manufacturers’ Association
(India) at the “61st Annual
General Meeting of the Asso-
ciation, said that in the year
gone by the global Covid-19
pandemic struck a complete
structural disruption around
the world throughout 2020-
21. “The big churn of the first
wave got the entire world to
witness; ‘too big to fail’ econo-
mies shatter, numerous un-or-
ganized industries purged,
unproductive business prac-
tices consolidated, training
and skill development of the
experienced manpower into
multitasking roles increased,
new R&D and indigenisation
efforts of key technologies in-
stituted, collaboration among
competitors for survival
founded, credit utilisation and
resources at hand optimised,
and novel business models
based on internet incepted.
Interestingly, the market
bounced back from the ‘Zero
Production’ days to the more
than ‘100% Capacity Utiliza-
tion’ days unheard of in dec-
ades post 1st & 2nd pandemic
waves. However, the uncer-
tainty remains among the
entrepreneurs pertaining to
rising prices of the raw mate-
rial, vagary of freight and con-
tainers’ availability, crunch of
liquidity and geopolitical ten-
sion,” Mr. Thumar said.
The TEI has currently an es-
timated annual installed ca-
pacity of Rs.11,000 crore per
annum. The total provisional
production of textile machin-
ery, parts & accessories during
2020-21 recorded a marginal
decrease of 5% viz. Rs.5,093
crore as against Rs.5,355 crore
achieved during the previous
year. During the fiscal year the
capacity utilisation decreased
from 49% to 46% as compared
to the preceding year. This is
despite the fact that there was
negligible business during first
two quarters of 2020-21. The
exports during 2020-21 rose to
Rs. 3,307 crores as against Rs.
2,556 crore achieved during
2019-20. On the other hand,
the import was reduced to Rs.
8096 crore as against Rs. 9,273
crore during the year.
Mr Thumar disclosed that the
total domestic demand for tex-
tile machinery during 2020-21
was Rs. 9,118 crores of which
supplies from the domestic
machinery industry amounted
to Rs.1,786 crore, aggregating
20% of the total demand. The
bulk of the demand was met
through imports.
Measures for Growth Ori-
entation
The Government of India pre-
pared PANDEMIC Specific
strategies and action plans
not only for business con-
tinuity and sectoral revival
but also to improve Ease of
Doing Business in the coun-
try by releasing notifications/
amendments/circulars high-
lighting measures to improve
the business environment in
India, Mr Thumar said. Con-
tinuing on the momentum of
the previous year, the office of
the Textile Commissioner co-
ordinated and processed the
ATUF Scheme efficiently, bar-
ring a few months of complete
lockdown. Majority of the cas-
es related to the enlistment of
textile machine manufactur-
ers, induction of new machine
types in the ATUF scheme
and the release of ATUF sub-
sidy were cleared on time.
The association worked close-
ly with Kalam Institute of
Health Technology (AMTZ
Vishakhapattanam) and In-
vest India both of whom con-
ducted separate studies on
the Indian Textile Engineer-
ing Industry (TEI) under the
aegis of ‘Ministry of Textiles’
Despite Covid-19 disruption,
capacity use of TEI dips to only
46% from 49%
TVC Editorial Team
TEXTILE MACHINERY

20 TVC | Nov 2021
during the year. The KIHT
was assigned to conduct
‘Technology Gap Analysis in
the Indian TEI’ and suggest
measures to enhance the po-
tential of the domestic indus-
try. On the other hand, In-
vest India published an article
on the status of the industry
in the post-Covid-19 scenar-
io and started working on an
Opportunity Paper covering
the Textile Machinery Indus-
try in India. Written in asso-
ciation with TMMA, its aim is
to showcase India’s strengths
in Textile Machinery to both
global and domestic players
and highlight the opportuni-
ties and advantages of invest-
ing in the Indian TEI.
Mr Thumar said that besides,
a study done by Ernst and
Young instituted by Nation-
al Committee on Textiles and
Clothing also covered about
the Indian TEI in a chapter.
This study was partly funded
by the India-ITME Society.
This study may also help In-
dian TEI in working closely
with the textile industry and
the MoT on various projects to
participate more efficiently in
the ‘Make in India’ campaign.
During the year the associ-
ation also took initiatives in
putting forward proposals for
“Incentives for Commerciali-
zation of the Indigenously De-
veloped and Acquired Tech-
nologies from Overseas”, to
the Ministry of Textiles and
Ministry of Heavy Industry
& Public Enterprises. The
main purpose was to support
the domestic research and de-
velopment and joint ventures
under the ‘Make in India’ in-
itiative of the Government of
India to become commercially
competitive not only in the do-
mestic but also in the export
markets. Both the ministries
may be considering our pro-
posal positively, and the asso-
ciation is quite optimistic of a
suitable scheme in the coming
fiscal year.
Mr Thumar congratulated
Mr. Pratik Bachkaniwala,
the incoming Chairman and
his co-Office Bearers, Mr. M.
Shankar, Mr. Prashant Man-
gukia and Mr. Shailesh Wani
and wished them a successful
tenure. “I would like to sin-
cerely thank the past chairmen
of TMMA for all their help and
guidance – in particular; Mr.
Mehul Trivedi, Mr. R. Rajen-
dran, Mr. Prakash Bhagwati,
Mr. Rajnikant Bachkaniwa-
la, and others who helped me
during my tenure,” he added.
Export and R&D Awards
He said: “It is our normal
practice to present Export and
R&D Awards at the Annual
Session of the Association. In
this Session, we are giving 8
Awards for Export Excellence,
3 Awards and 1 Certificate
of Appreciation for R&D for
the year 2019-20. Besides, we
are giving 8 Awards for Ex-
port Excellence for 2020-21.”
He congratulated the award
winners for putting in great
efforts in the promotion of
exports and the development
made in textile machinery to
win the Awards.

21
TVC | Nov 2021
Citation of Export Excellence and R&DAwards
2019-20
T
he Textile Machinery Manufacturers Asso-
ciation Export Awards Scheme covers the
following categories of Awards: -
1. Apex Export Award
2. Segment Export Awards for each of the major
sectors of the Textile Machinery Industry i.e.
i. Textile Machinery Sector
ii. Parts and Accessories Sector
iii.Textile Testing, Monitoring & Controlling
Instruments Sector
3. Special Export Awards: Category-wise
The Association also presents Research and De-
velopment Awards for indigenous development
of new technology/processes under different cat-
egories in the field of Textile Machinery Indus-
try.
1. EXPORT EXCELLENCE AWARDS:
The Association received 21 nominations for dif-
ferent categories of Export Excellence Awards,
out of which 8 winners were declared. These
nominations were evaluated by the Awards
Committee of the Association and selected eight
nominations as winners.
a. Apex Export Award:
The Apex Award Winner is:
TEXTILE MACHINERY
Kirloskar Toyota Textile Machinery
Pvt. Ltd., Bangalore.
Recipient of the Award is: -
Mr. Hisahiro Koketsu – Managing Direc
tor of the Company.
b. Segment Export Awards:
i.Machinery Sector: -
Winner of the Award is: Saurer Tex
tile Solutions Pvt. Ltd., Vadodara
Recipients of the Award is: Mr. Vikas
Sharan – Director India Operations of
the Company.
ii. For Parts & Accessories Sector:

22 TVC | Nov 2021
Winner of the Award is: Inspiron
Engineering Pvt. Ltd., Ahmedabad
Recipient of the Award is:
Abhijeet Kulkarni, representative of the
Company.
iii.For Textile Testing, Monitoring &
Controlling Instruments Sector:
Winner of the Award is: Premier
Evolvics Pvt. Ltd., Coimbatore
Mr. Sanjay Gandhi – Deputy General
Manager - Sales of the Company
Special Export Awards: -
i. Spinning Machinery Sector: -
Winner of the Award is: Rieter In
dia Pvt. Ltd., Pune
Recipient of the Award is: Mr. Pras
anta Kumar Deka – Market Head India
of the Company.
ii. Processing Machinery Sector: -
Winner of the Award is: Stovec
Industries Ltd., Ahmedabad
Mr.Sachin Patil representative of the
Company.
iii.Parts and Accessories Sector: -
Winner of the Award is: Maksteel
Wire Healds Pvt. Ltd., Vadodara
Mr. Ramesh Bhai Sidhpura – Director of
the Company.
iv. Small Scale Sector: Machinery-
Winner of the Award is: Weavetech
Engineers Ltd., Surat
Mr. Vallabh Thumar - CMD of the Com
pany.
2. RESEARCH & DEVELOPMENT
AWARDS:
Four member companies sent nominations for 7
product R&D Awards. The Jury considered three
nominations eligible for the Award for their

23
TVC | Nov 2021
jeet Kulkarni, representative of the Com
pany.
2) Lakshmi Card Clothing Mfg. Co. Pvt.
Ltd., Coimbatore for their development
of “Flat Tops Used in Carding Machine at
Textile Spinning Mills”
Mr. M. Sundaresan, Asst. General Manag
er – Product Development of the
Company
3) Lakshmi Machine Works Ltd., Coim-
batore for their development of “Draw-
frame LDB3”
Recipient of the Award is: Mr. Tharani
Prabhu - Team Leader R&D of the Company
4) A Certificate of Appreciation Present-
ed to Maksteel Wire Healds Pvt. Ltd., Va-
dodara for their development of “Twin
Wire Healds with Oil Tempered Wire”
Recipient of the Award is: Mr. Ramesh
Bhai Sidhpura – Director of the Company.
[Executive Director to request Office Bearers
& Chief Guest to Felicitate]
2020-21
Citation of Export Excellence and R&D
Awards
Similarly for the year 2020-21, the Association
received 22 nominations for different catego-
ries of Export Excellence Awards out of which
7 applications were considered to be the win-
ners. These nominations were evaluated by
the Awards Committee of the Association and
selected eight nominations as winners.
a. Apex Export Award:
The Apex Award Winner is: Rieter
India Pvt. Ltd., Pune
R&D efforts during the year 2019-20. Whereas, 1
application received a Certificate of Appreciation
for the product improvisation.
The Award winner are:
1) InspirOn Engineering Pvt. Ltd., Ah-
medabad for their development of “Press-
er Finger Automatic Tucking-In for Auto
Doffing Roving Frame”
Recipient of the Award is: Mr. Abhi

24 TVC | Nov 2021
Recipient of the Award is: -
Mr. Prasanta Kumar Deka – Market
Head India of the Company.
b. Segment Export Awards:
i. Machinery Sector: -
Winner of the Award is: Lakshmi
Machine Works Ltd., Coimbatore
Recipients of the Award is:
Mr. S. Saravanakumar – Manager -
Global Sales of the Company.
ii. For Parts & Accessories Sector:
Winner of the Award is: Lakshmi
Card Clothing Manufacturing Co.
Pvt. Ltd., Coimbatore
Mr. N. Jagadeesan Asst. General
Manager – Exports of the Company.
c. Special Export Awards: -
v) Spinning Machinery Sector: -
Winner of the Award is:
Truetzschler India Pvt. Ltd.,
Ahmedabad
Mr. Kashyap Bhavsar of the Company.
vi) Processing Machinery Sector: -
Winner of the Award is: Kusters
Calico Pvt. Ltd., Vadodara
Mr. Sushil Verma Managing Director of
the Company.
vii) Parts and Accessories Sector: -
Winner of the Award is: Inspiron
Engineering Pvt. Ltd., Ahmedabad
Mr. Naveen Aggarwal, representative of
the Company.
viii) Small Scale Sector: Machinery-
Winner of the Award is: Yamuna
Machine Works Ltd., Mumbai
Mr. Prashant Mangukia – Director of the
Company.

25
TVC | Nov 2021
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T
he Office Bearers of Textiles Machinery Manu-
factures Association (India), led by Mr. Vallabh
Thumar, Chairman (CMD-Weavetech Group),
Mr. Sachin Kumar-Executive Director, and foremost in-
digenous and foreign Textiles Machine Manufacturers
had a hybrid interaction (Physical + Virtual) with the
Hon’ble Union Minister of Textiles, Mr Piyush Goyal
and Hon’ble Minister for State for Textiles, Ms Darsha-
na Vikram Jardosh on 22nd October 2021 to develop
a facilitating Ecosystem for growth of the Textiles En-
gineering Industry (TEI) in India under Atmanirbhar
Bharat India in order to (1) Compete globally in all in-
dustry segments on strength of technology and scale,
(2) Initiatives towards Atmanirbhar Bharat: Meet 75%
of domestic demand by 2026-27 and (3) Cost reduction
for the textile manufacturers and enhancement of value
exports. In this meeting 15 textile machines manufac-
tures of foreign regions; 20 leading indigenous textile
manufactures and 7 textile machinery and associated
industry associations have participated and submitted
their viewpoints. Mr Piyush Goyal urged the industry
to focus on speed, skill and scale by getting into inno-
vative partnerships and developing 100 Indian Textile
Machinery Champions recognized across the world.
Mr Piyush Goyal Ji also urged all to get out of Com-
mand-and-Control mindset and work through Plug and
Play model to make the textile sector more vibrant in
name and sprit.
Alluding to achieving 100 crore vaccination and the
Chandrayan-1 mission, Mr Piyush Goyal urged the in-
dustry to be inspired by the volumes in vaccination to
scaleup while look at the precision in Indian space pro-
gramme sector to bring the Mojo back. The Ministry
of Textiles, Government of India being the Ministry of
user industry of textile machines and with the aim to
reduce the capital cost of our textiles and apparel man-
ufactures is well aware that the machinery is the most
critical input underlying the production and capacities
of the whole textile value chain. However, there are var-
ious issues hindering manufacturing of textile machin-
ery used particularly for weaving, knitting, processing,
embroidery, garmenting and technical textiles sub-sec-
tors benchmarked to international standards. Presently
75% of requirement of machinery is being imported and
though we have certain strengths, domestic textile en-
gineering industry is able to meet 25% of requirements.
As such a number of measures with PLI and MITRA
have been taken to expand the textile production and
export which consequently would result in higher de-
mand of technology and machinery.
Kalam Institute of Health Technology (KIHT),
Visakhapatnam (which has developed required infra-
structure for manufacturing of medical devices in a
limited time) after due consultations with all related
stakeholders, has suggested manufacturing of critical
components of the textiles machines as one of the in-
terventions for promotions. These are at present being
imported by our textiles machine manufactures. Hence,
manufacturing of critical components needs critical
support consideration since strengthening of the ver-
tical would enable reducing costs while augmenting
benchmark technology riding on possibilities of Make
in India. This would contribute to value enhancement
and employment generation. Efforts of strengthening
machinery manufacturing would go a long way in our
quest for sustainable textile ecosystem, enhancement
of value exports of textile goods and contribute signifi-
cantly to building an Atmanirbhar Bharat.
Based on the submissions and inputs provided by the
industry leaders during this interaction meeting, the
Government would be able to further strengthen the
ecosystem among the related ministries as well as relat-
ed industry associations including IT Industry, machine
tools and plastic industries for manufacturing of the
textiles machinery which are currently being imported
into the country. This would also help the Government
to devise short term, medium term and long-term ac-
tion plan in the direction of Atmanirbhar Bharat initia-
tives of our Hon’ble Prime Minister,
Mr Narendra Modi.
ROADMAP FOR
ATMANIRBHAR
BHARAT IN
TEXTILE
MACHINERY
MOOTED
TVC Editorial Team
TEXTILE MACHINERY

27
TVC | Nov 2021
I
n his Guest speech at the TMMA AGM, Mr
Varun Sood, Vice President of Invest India,
the National Investment Promotion and Fa-
cilitation Agency, promoted by the Central Gov-
ernment touched upon various topics and stressed
the growing textile industry’s capability to scale
new peaks in production and exports. He said that
the growing textile industry currently valued at
US$150 billion has provided much buoyancy to the
textile machinery industry in India. Growth in the
domestic market and potential export opportuni-
ties imply that textile machinery demand is stead-
ily growing as well, both in India and the world.
He revealed that there are about 3,250 companies
involved in manufacturing of textile machineries,
accessories and trading of the equipment in India.
The industry not only caters to rising domestic de-
mand but also has the potential to establish In-
dia as an export hub for textile machinery with
spinning machines representing the largest ex-
port opportunity. “A major component of textile
machinery industry in India thrives on the global
partnerships that companies in India have forged
with their global counterparts be it in Germany,
Italy or Japan. 100% Foreign Direct Investment
(FDI) is allowed through the automatic route in
this segment which coupled with a supportive pol-
icy ecosystem, is keen on welcoming more inves-
tors to India and take advantage of its manufac-
turing competitiveness,” he said.
Talking in detail about the textile machinery in-
dustry, Mr Sood said that “a US$2.5 billion tex-
tile machine industry which is growing at 5%
currently reflects on the growing strength of this
sub-segment in the textiles value chain in India. A
strong textile engineering industry that can grow,
compete, and export would be able to provide sup-
port to the rising Indian textile industry, adding
vibrancy and competitiveness. “As per the 60th
Annual Report by the Textile Machinery Manu-
facturing Association (TMMA), the Asian region
will account for more than 90 per cent of the total
textile machinery market share, and in order to ex-
pand its technical horizons, many textile machine
companies in the country are joining hands with
their western counterparts to produce technologi-
cally advanced machines,” Mr Sood said.
Speaking about the India Advantage, Mr Sood
said that “production costs in China are rising at
a faster rate than any other developing countries.
Increase in manpower cost is a major factor which
will impact the cost of machinery manufacturing
as well. The hourly labour cost in China has almost
quadrupled since 2000 and is further expected to
increase in the near future. In addition to it, the
demographic shifts in China will inhibit the labour
force in coming years due to ageing population. In
contrast, India has favorable demographics with a
young population base with 65 per cent of its pop-
ulation below 35 years of age.”
Talking on export potential, Mr Sood said that
presence of textile industries in neighboring coun-
tries like Bangladesh pose tremendous export op-
portunities (~17 per cent export demand). India
has signed bilateral and multilateral treaties with
different countries that have consequentiality
presence in textile manufacturing. Touching upon
the India’s strong manufacturing competitiveness
leading to import substitution, Mr Sood stated that
India is a cost competitive manufacturing base for
all types of products across the textile value chain.
In 2020, Government of India announced Produc-
tion Linked Incentive (PLI) Schemes for 13 key
sectors for US$26 billion which will further boost
the manufacturing ecosystem of the country pro-
viding the much-needed impetus to tap the US$2
$2 bn Import Substitution
Scope for TEI:Varun Sood
TVC Editorial Team
TEXTILE MACHINERY

28 TVC | Nov 2021
billion import substitution opportunity.
He dwelt on the Government Schemes and Initia-
tives for the Capital Goods Sector as follows:
Export Promotion Capital Goods Scheme - Un-
der the Scheme, EPCG Authorizations are issued
with actual user condition and import validity of
24 months to import capital goods (except those
specified in negative list) for pre-production, pro-
duction, and post-production at zero customs duty.
Capital Goods Scheme - The DHI Capital Goods
Scheme is a pilot scheme designed to support the
industry to modernize domestic technologies
Technology Acquisition Fund Programme - Fund-
ing is provided to explore opportunities for accel-
erated technology upgradation through acquiring
technologies for specific projects and activities
Indian Electrical Equipment Industry Mission
Plan 2012-2022 - Vision 2022 for the Indian elec-
trical equipment industry is to make India the
country of choice for the production of electrical
equipment and reach an output of USD 100 Bn by
balancing exports and imports.
National Capital Goods Policy 2016 - Aimed at in-
creasing the production of capital goods from the
2014-15 value of approximately USD 31 Bn to USD
101 Bn by 2025
Central Manufacturing Technology Institute -
CMTI in association with Textile Machinery Man-
ufacturers’ Consortium (TMMC) and TMMA had
undertaken the development of advanced technol-
ogies for high-speed shuttle-less looms under De-
partment of Heavy Industries’ (DHI’) ‘Scheme for
enhancement of global competitiveness of Indian
Capital Goods sector’ in April 2015
Textiles Committee, Ministry of Textiles - The Tex-
tiles Committee is the statutory body for ensuring
the quality of textiles and textile machinery.
Capital Goods Sector Skill Council - DHI and Fed-
eration of Indian Chambers of Commerce & Indus-
try (FICCI) launched a Capital Goods Sector Skill
Council in 2013 under the aegis of National Skill
Development Council (NSDC), New Delhi. The ob-
jective was to develop skills of a new generation
of workers which would match the expectations of
the industry
Custom Bonded Warehouse Scheme - The Central
Board of Indirect Taxes (CBIC) is allowing import
of raw materials and capital goods without pay-
ment of duty for manufacturing and other opera-
tions in a bonded manufacturing facility
Opportunities in the Capital Goods Sector are due
to 100 % FDI through Automatic Route; Industri-
al Licensing- no industrial license required (Free);
Import Policy- No import license required; Expatri-
ation Policy- Liberal work visa regime; Formation
of Company- Company can be formed online; Cor-
porate taxes 25%, Import duties maximum 10%,
General Import duty 7.5%, GST 18%; Proximity
to the customers and ASEAN countries; Excellent
manpower availability as well as skilled workforce
for R&D; ; With campaigns such as “Make in In-
dia” manufacturing sector is the prime focus sector
of the government
Besides other Government Schemes and Initiatives
of the Ministry of Textiles, Mr Sood said that the
upcoming Initiatives by the Ministry of Textiles to
benefit machinery manufacturers included Mega
Integrated Textile Region and Apparel Parks (MI-
TRAs) – A dedicated textile machinery park could
come up under the scheme which aims to attract
large investment and employment generation in
the sector to further boost domestic manufactur-
ing and to create world class infrastructure with
plug and play facilities.
Mr Sood revealed that a Consultative Session was
organized on 8 September 2021 by Ministry of
Textiles with support from Invest India & TMMA
to seek feedback on how to make India a leading
Textile Machine Manufacturing destination.”The
session witnessed participation from 40+ compa-
nies along officials from Ministry of Textiles, Of-
fice of the Textile Commissioner, Textiles Com-
mittee, Ministry of Heavy Industry, Ministry of
Steel, Office of the Principal Scientific Adviser to
the Government of India and Textiles Machine
Manufacturers Association to hear out industry
concerns and resolve ongoing issues, seek industry
feedback on the current schemes pertaining to tex-
tile machinery and discuss the recommendations
for implementation guidelines.”Invest India in col-
laboration with Textile Machinery Manufacturing
Association launched the report Textile Machinery
in India during the Consultative Session for mak-
ing India a leading textile machinery manufactur-
ing destination.”

30 TVC | Nov 2021
SUSTAINABILITY, A MAJOR THEME AT
INNOVATE 2021
TVC Editorial Team
I
nnovate 2021: Textile Innovation Week and the Innovate Summit, which has
drawn to a close recently, has been hailed a great success by innovators, exhibi-
tors and visitors across the globe. The event had around 60 exhibitors and over
100 live streams, 86% of which were exhibitor live streams. Exhibitors included Sun
Chemical, DuPont, AFFOA, ITMA, Oerlikon, Velcro, Epson, Ricoh, Polygiene, Evon-
ik, Kornit Digital and Roland DG.
Ricoh announced its partnership with direct-to-garment (DTG) printing OEM spe-
cialist Aeoon Technologies at the event. The partnership, according to the compa-
nies, aims to bring solutions to the market that actively supports digital print ser-
vice providers with modular growth strategies. It will allow Ricoh the opportunity
to extend its DTG offering into higher productivity market segments and further
demonstrate a focus on sustainability and cost-efficiency, Ricoh says.
Ink specialist Sun Chemical launched its Xennia® Pearl pigment inks for high-speed
industrial applications at Innovate 2021. The range, which includes inks for both
mid-viscosity and high-viscosity print heads, has been developed following a careful
assessment of the market and specific customer needs, particularly the requirement
for high fastness, multi-substrate compatibility, consistent colour, and outstanding
print performance.
A recurring theme throughout the textile & ap-
parel industry, sustainability was a primary topic
of conversation through the Summit. Delegates
heard a keynote presentation from Xu Yingxin,
Vice President, China National Textile & Ap-
parel Council, on how China’s textile & apparel
sector aims to mitigate climate change. For Eu-
ropean policy, we heard from Dirk Vantyghem,
Sustainability Director General, Euratex, who discussed a new
more sustainable framework for the European
textile & apparel industry. On the third and fi-
nal day of the event, a panel of materials spe-
cialists (for both man-made and natural fibres),
hosted by Friedrich Weninger, Managing Direc-
tor, Dornbirn Global Fiber Congress discussed
the desperate need for enhanced sustainability
in the fibres market arguing that this must come
from putting differences and competition aside
and collaborating.
TEXTILE MACHINERY

31
TVC | Nov 2021
Industry 4.0
Skills gap
Digitalisation, not surprisingly, was also a recur-
ring theme. In particular, how Covid accelerat-
ed digitalisation was assessed (for example, in a
panel session hosted by the ITMF and others) as
well as how it can help in futureproofing supply
chains by providing tools for authentication – as
discussed by Ian Cronin, Community Curator at
the World Economic Forum – transparency and
traceability. It is thought that digitising process-
es and technologies is enabling the movement
of manufacturing back to developed economies
and although there was hope among speakers
that this movement remains strong, it is appre-
ciated that these markets cannot compete with
the backward linkages and manpower of China.
Additionally, digitalisation, it was discussed, can
be leveraged to improve sustainability strate-
gies and supply chain resilience (as mentioned
by Joshua Hinkel, Partner, Bain & Company in
a keynote presentation). However, digitalisation
also means the industry requires a new set of
skills.
As well as part of addressing the need for collab-
oration, is collaborating to reduce the industry’s
skills gap. The Summit showed that the skills
gap is not just prevalent in the US and Europe
as previously thought but is also a global issue,
with large manufacturing nations such as India
struggling to find the right skilled workers to
meet the demands of the global textile & apparel
industry. Every industry, from fibres to print-
ing, is suffering from a skills gap. In particular,
the nonwovens industry – as discussed in a pan-
el session hosted by David Rousse, president,
INDA, is struggling to recruit new talent. This
is despite the boom in the nonwovens market,
with the growth of medical applications for non-
wovens and face masks since the outbreak of the
pandemic. With the growing nearshoring trend
across the industry, there is the worry that with-
out action, there will be no-one to fulfil the roles,
or spark innovation, in this movement.
Show sponsor Ricoh said during the show that
the company was so happy that “[the WTiN]
team will get an open invitation for Christmas
dinner!” Friedrich Weninger, Managing Direc-
tor of exhibitor Dornbirn Global Fiber Congress,
said: “It is a great show and the potentials in
terms of contacts one could explore are excel-
lent.” Mike Wang, specialist at innovate exhibi-
tor, Taiwan Textile Federation (TTF), said: “We
heard great feedback from our exhibitors regard-
ing how WTiN had invited diverse visitors from
the technology industry to participate in this
great exhibition. “Once again, thank you and
we look forward to joining your wonderful event
next time.”
Mark Jarvis, Managing Director, WTiN, says:
“Innovate 2021 has shown how fruitful and en-
gaging live, virtual events can be. We are hon-
oured to have had so many visitors to Innovate
2021 and, importantly, so many fantastic ex-
hibitors and speakers who have helped to make
the platform the rich, engaging space it is today.
“This has made it clear that innovation is key for
our industry to thrive – in all areas of the indus-
try – and we plan to do that with Innovate going
forward. We are excited for the next Innovate
chapter, to be announced soon.”
The event was sponsored by Ricoh and the Inno-
vate Summit was sponsored by Epson.
Collaboration was discussed as a necessity for
a more sustainable textile & apparel industry
by many at the Summit. Not only that, but
it’s also necessary for future innovation, too.
For example, Leeds City Region in the UK and
India are collaborating to ensure greater in-
novation throughout the textile & apparel in-
dustry, as well as in a bid to close the growing
skills gap. What’s more, a fireside chat from
supply chain technology company QIMA dis-
cussed how data and transparency are key to
future-proofing supply chains but also, that
supplier and buyer relationships are becom-
ing more entrenched. The discussion conclud-
ed that we must work together to ensure our
supply chains are streamlined and more able
to handle disruption, such as that at the begin-
ning of 2019, when the Covid pandemic broke
out.
Collaboration

33
TVC | Nov 2021
Spectro LFP qb, a Cutting-edge
Technology of Barbieri
Mr. Viktor Lazzeri spoke to the Textile Value
Chain in an exclusive interview.
Excerpts:
Textile Value Chain (TVC): In today’s textile
world of changing fashions, colour accuracy
plays a vital role. Give us a brief history of
Barbieri Electronic since its inception.
Viktor Lazzeri (VL): Barbieri Electronic was
founded in 1983 in Brixen, a town in Northern Italy
by Mr. Siegfried Barbieri. From its roots building
densitometers, the company switched in 1997 to
the digital printing market by building one of the
first spectrophotometers for measuring colour in
digital printing. Since then, many innovations fol-
lowed, from automated measurements, to variable
measurement apertures to offering backlit meas-
urements. Today the Spectro LFP qb textile edi-
tion is the cutting-edge technology when it comes
to measure textiles and other materials in digital
printing.
TVC: Where are your major markets for the
various products?
VL: Measurement technology is a key piece of
technology in various markets. Our Barbieri meas-
urement devices are used in digital textile printing,
signage, label and packaging, flatbed, fine art and
industrial printing (for example ceramics, glass
and other applications)
T
here are a number of challenges in obtaining accurate colour measurement data in digital textile
printing. However, automated colour measurement devices can help to overcome these challenges.
The Barbieri Spectro LFP qb textile edition is able to accurately measure textiles in digital textile
printing. In a webinar recently, Barbieri discussed how to enable an accurate and stable linearisation and
calibration process in digital textile printing and how to ensure colour accuracy through verification with
automated colour measurement. Mr. Viktor Lazzeri is the Business Development Manager for Barbieri
Electronic. Barbieri Electronic builds spectrophotometers for colour measurement in professional digital
printing and is the colour measurement market leader for large format, flatbed and industrial printing.
Viktor’s focus is expanding Barbieri’s international business into new markets, applications, and indus-
tries. He started at Barbieri in 2011, initially working as Supply Chain Manager. Later he took the role of
the VP of Product and Innovation and also managed the operations of Barbieri North America Inc.
Mr. Viktor Lazzeri
Business Development Manager
Barbieri
INTERVIEWS

34 TVC | Nov 2021
TVC: What are the latest products and their
salient features?
VL: The Spectro LFP qb Textile Edition is the
worldwide unique solution for automatic col-
our measuring in digital dye-sublimation and di-
rect-to-garment printing. It is based on the Spectro
LFP qb and has dedicated software and accessories
who makes it possible to measure fully automati-
cally and with highest precision and repeatability
any kind of textiles and fabrics. The special hold-
er fixes the textile firmly, the camera and accord-
ing software detects the centre of each patch to be
measured and the measurements will be done fully
automatically – even if the chart is distorted! The
measurement head can be detached for manual
spot measurements and results sent to the com-
puter. Two devices in one and automatic and spot
measurements done with the same device which
leads to a maximum accuracy.
TVC: How are you placed in the Asian mar-
ket, especially the Indian market?
VL: In the Indian market we work with our part-
ner: Fortuna Colours & Prints LLP, Gurgaon or
directly through manufacturers. The best way to
reach out to us is directly via our website www.
barbierielectronic. We do have a service and sup-
port centre in Taiwan and Shanghai. The contact
details are available on our website.
TVC: Digital printing has made big strides
in India. What is your strategy for this mar-
ket?
VL: Our strategy over the past months and years
has been to innovate and build the best, most intel-
ligent colour measurement devices for digital print-
ing. We know of many ongoing challenges in digi-
tal printing and want to support our customers to
help them become top performers in digital print-
ing. We work closely with manufacturers, software
companies worldwide and local partners to be close
to the customer and make sure our technology can
be used to solve critical color challenges.
TVC: Give us a view of your future plans and
R&D efforts in colour measurement.
VL: Our mission is to build Intelligent colour
measurement technology for top performance in
professional digital printing. That is why we are
working with selected research partners across the
globe to innovate and predict new trends and chal-
lenges. We will continue to work on new innovative
solutions that make colour measurement as accu-
rate as possible.
Spectro LFP qb Textile Edition 2

35
TVC | Nov 2021
Textile Industry
“Entering a More Mature Stage”
D
r. Suranjana Gangopadhay was the First woman Head of Textile Department of Veermata Jijabai Tech-
nological Institute (VJTI) since its inception in 1887.VJTI started with only two Departments -- Textile
and Mechanical Engineering. That time the institute was founded to provide trained manpower to the booming
Textile Mills in Mumbai...that’s the reason VJTI started with Textile Department known as Ripon School of Textiles
with Mechanical Engineering Department to supplement manpower for maintaining Textile Machinery.
Dr. Gangopadhay has a Ph. D. from the IIT Bombay, with M.Text from the MS University, Baroda and B.Tech from
the University of Calcutta. She is a member in BIS Committees of TXD-14: Textile Machinery and Accessories Section-
al Committee, TXD-01: Physical Methods of Tests Sectional Committee and TXD-31: Man-Made Fibres, Cotton and
their Products Sectional Committee. Dr Gangopadhyay calls herself an ‘Accidental Textile Professor’… landed with
Textile Technology while entering engineering education and then the uniqueness of the domain made her to “become
extremely passionate; the reach of Textile Field encompasses between handloom-Handicraft to extremely high-end
“Technical textiles”; which I enjoy from the perspective of both a Material Scientist and a Textile Technologist.”
Dr Suranjana Gangopadhyay replies succinctly to some of
the questions posed by the Textile Value Chain:
Excerpts:
Explain your particular teaching strategy or tech-
nique that is helps you to teach.
Always linking the content of the syllabus with relevant ap-
plication in practical field which the students are familiar and
excited about, e.g.,
» while teaching nuances of active wears, I mention about
the famous adventure sports programme which students
are familiar with.
» while teaching nuances of Extreme weather clothing, I
relate it to some famous scenes of Hollywood/ Bollywood
movies.
How will you encourage your students to be creative in
the textile industry?
» Always persuade/train them in giving customised and in-
dividualised lines of attack and resulting solutions for var-
ious scenario shared with them as part of “Case Studies”
and “Mini Projects”.
» Highlighting to them the rich heritage and facets of Arti-
san Knowledge and culture.
» Highlighting to them scientific and textile domain knowl-
edge application in mythology.
Describe your work ethic.
I think of myself as am a strategizing and goal oriented Profes-
sional with hawk-eyes on perfection and finishing.
I believe, a good listener by being so can encourage a very
meaningful yet guided communication not only in Textiles but
in every field.
If I have multiple projects in front of me, I handle completing
them on time by Strategising, Multi-tasking and Delegating.
What are your strengths as a professor and how do you
measure success as a professor?
Students feel their time spent with me adds some incremental
values to their knowledge repository both in technical as well
as other domains…ensuring a holistic growth of their person-
ality.
Dr Suranjana Gangopadhyay
HOD, VJTI
INTERVIEWS

36 TVC | Nov 2021
My measure of success as “friend, philosopher and guide” is
when students always communicate to me about their profes-
sional and personal achievements and make a long-lasting rela-
tionship even when they have long graduated from my courses.
What current trends are baffling to you?
The trend of devising “so-called smart” strategies (which are
actually self- fulfilling prophecy) to have stellar “scores” on
the grade cards and not honing up on skillset helpful for their
eventual professional journey by a section of students; when so
much of useful non-proprietary resources are freely available
around.
Invariably it lands them in disaster in case they are forced to
venture out in core sector where getting the degree is actually
the beginning of an uphill journey.
Do you think social media is beneficial to the textile
industry?
Yes; very good OPEN-SOURCE information and Audio-Visual
contents are available in the Social media – judicious utilisa-
tion of which proved to be the boon for Textile Industry.
What do you think about teamwork?
‘Team Work’ is the real elixir of reaching the next summit for
Textile Fraternity like other walks of Life; gone are the days
of working in isolation; it’s the era of “Collaboration & Team
Work” to remain relevant and globally competitive.
Being an educationist, your journey in industry life
and interaction.
My interactions with industry started early during my student
days through my internship days in the then PSU of IPCL (In-
dian Petro Chemical Ltd.) Vadodara [ now a part of Reliance
Industries] where I was very lucky to have stellar mentors who
have shaped my professional journey more as a “Man Made Fi-
bre Technologist”….in my professional life as ‘Educationist’ I
am privileged to have close interaction and collaborations with
industries like, Kusumgar Corporates Pvt. Ltd. (KCPL)-India,
ATE Enterprise Pvt. Ltd., SAURER India, Oerlikon India,
TexPort Syndicate Pvt. Ltd., D’ Décor India Pvt. Ltd. to name
a few.
I am also closely associated with apex bodies like India ITME
Society, ITAMMA, ITTA, FICCI, VDMA.
As a Mentor, what qualities, capabilities you choose in
your Ph.D. students?
» Professional ethics and honesty.
» Capability to think independently and strategise on the go.
» Adequate domain knowledge.
» Good command over language.
» Focus
How has the industry evolved in the last few years?
Indian Textile industry is entering its more mature stage;
ready to evolve from ‘Family Oriented’ to “Professionally Man-
aged ones’ recognised the power of excellent domain knowl-
edge blended with exposure on the ‘Techno-Economic’ facets
of the human resources…the famed Elephant seems to have
woken up to the dire need of investing on R&D segment for
indigenous capacity building.
What are the latest trends in the industry?
» Adopting the nuances of automation in sync with the ‘In-
dustry 4.0’.
» Leveraging the power of e-commerce.
» Investing on creation of ‘Brand Image’.
» Moving towards more ‘Responsible Manufacturing/Engi-
neering’.
» Imbibing the concepts of ‘Circular Economy’ to its benefit.
Sustainability, Carbon footprint, Waste management;
how are they relevant and important? It’s just a talk of
the town or any fruitful measures taken by industry?
‘SUSTAINABILITY’ is no more just a ‘BUZZWORD’ it has
truly become the ‘Sustainable’ way of doing business…indus-
try & manufacturers have to understand the TRUE Impact
and adopt the concepts of ‘Sustainability’-Reduction of Carbon
footprint and effective waste management to even remain in
the business.
Indian Textile industry is still taking its baby steps in this
path….to create awareness and provide exposure to the BAT
(Best Available Techniques) in the domain of ‘Sustainabili-
ty’ in Textile industry, our Team has organised a one week
Certificate course for various stake holders on the theme of
‘Sustainable Textiles: Production & Application’ in the month
of December 2017; our UG-PG curriculum includes dedicated
modules on the concepts of ‘Sustainability in Textile Manufac-
turing & Processing’ to ensure that graduates of Textile Cours-
es from VJTI-Mumbai are well versed with the need and the
latest techniques to ensure ‘Reduced impact’ on Mother Earth!
How you personally adopted sustainability in your life?
» By doing waste segregation religiously.
» Adopting innovative ways of ‘Reuse & Upscaling’ of
non-Biodegradable products I have come across.
» By consuming & supporting indigenous products which
are less damaging to environment.
» Reducing Green House gas emission by optimising the use
of air-conditioners.
» Ensuring e-wastes do not land in ‘land fills’ but reach the
recyclers.
What is the key to success when communicating with
the student?
To make them feel I am respecting and valuing their precious
‘TIME’ & ‘ENTHUSIASM’
The young & fresh students are very keen observers; they inad-
vertently imitate any good practice they have observed in their
‘Teachers’…nowadays actually we have evolved from being
‘TEACHERS’ to more of ‘FACILITATORS’ who are unlocking
the hidden potential in the students!!!
The greatest challenge today for teachers is the very short
span of attention and concentration of the students…mainly
because of over exposure to digital environment.
What message will you give to the new generation?
‘Hold on to your DREAMS; just believe that YOU
CAN…Nothing is going to STOP you…That’s the Story of wo/
man…’lyric credit @ Loui Banks.

37
TVC | Nov 2021
Picanol launches new “Connect”
generation airjet & rapier
weaving machines
TVC Editorial Team
P
icanol has introduced its latest generation of airjet and rapier weaving machines, which have been called the
“Connect” generation. These new generation weaving machines focus on connectivity and an increased level of
data availability. With this new generation, Picanol is launching several new functionalities such as a digitalized
Gripper stroke setting, Gripper tape monitoring, Climate control, Shed angle measurement, and fully integrated Power
monitoring.
“Following the successful launch of our digital platform PicConnect earlier this month, we have now released a new gen-
eration of weaving machines, which are known as the Connect generation. Our Connect generation weaving machines
can provide the correct data and are loaded with new and never-before-seen functionalities. This is clear proof that for
Picanol “Driven by Data” is not just a slogan but a commitment. Not only have these innovations allowed us to make big
improvements when it comes to our four design principles – Smart Performance, Sustainability Inside, Intuitive Con-
trol, and, of course, Driven by Data – but when combined with our new digital platform they will allow you to amplify
your own intuition.” comments Johan Verstraete, Vice President, Weaving Machines.
From now on, the range of Picanol weaving machines will have the “Connect” suffix. For the airjet weaving machines,
this means: OmniPlus-i Connect and TerryPlus-i Connect, while for the rapier weaving machines, this means: Opti-
Max-i Connect and TerryMax-i Connect. These new machines are built around Picanol’s four main design principles:
Picanol Omniplus i-connect
MACHINES &PROCESSES

38 TVC | Nov 2021
current and historical power consumption, temperature,
humidity, material consumption, and – on the OmniPlus-i
Connect – also the air consumption, can be monitored.
The BlueTouch display is now also equipped with an Ac-
tion centre, an electronic logbook where all actions such
as maintenance interventions can be logged or scheduled
beforehand. The machine manual is now available on the
BlueTouch display, and with the context-based help func-
tion the help pages related to the operation the user wants
to perform appear with one touch of his/her fingertip. The
built-in web browser even allows the user even to consult,
for example, tutorial videos on the web to guide them
through a setting procedure.
Intuitive Control
The Connect generation was designed to focus on what re-
ally matters: weave the highest possible grade A fabrics
at minimal costs. A large set of tools have been installed
to facilitate this goal. One of the most remarkable ones is
the Harness frame stroke measurement – until recently, it
was only available on the revolutionary SmartShed, but it
is now also available on the cambox and dobby machines.
Combined with the shed visualisation and simulation, it
offers a quantum leap in terms of optimising the user’s
shed settings without losing any time or taking any risks.
The colours of the programmable Smart signal lights with
stop timing functionality are now repeated around the
push buttons, allowing even better visibility and the pri-
oritisation of interventions by the weaver. A full-fledged
Access control system not only limits the access to certain
pages and settings depending on the user, but also allows a
tailored dashboard to be established for each user profile.
It is also clear that in combination with the new digital
platform PicConnect, the Connect machines will help you
to jump immediately to the next level of weaving that we
call “the era of intuitive weaving”.
The Connect machines were introduced to Picanol’s world-
wide customers via a virtual show. You can watch this vir-
tual show at www.picanol.be/media/video.
Smart Performance
On the OptiMax-i Connect, Picanol has introduced a lubri-
cation monitoring sensor in combination with a temper-
ature sensor. The combined data they provide allow the
user to make sure the gripper tapes are in optimal condi-
tion for maximum performance. As an option, a gripper
stroke measurement sensor is also available. This not only
dramatically simplifies the setting of the gripper stroke,
but also enables the user to realise higher machine speeds
when weaving reduced widths – a pure extra output com-
bined with more user-friendliness: a double win!
Sustainability Inside
Even though it was 25 years ago that the Sumo Drive con-
cept was launched, it remains the most powerful, versatile
and energy friendly machine drive available. And it has
been even further optimised. It features an optimised sheet
metal package for lower energy consumption, optimised
oil cooling circuit for a better performance and a built-in
temperature monitoring. Moreover, the Connect machines
can be equipped with a Power monitoring module, which
allows the user to keep track of the power consumption of
each machine over time. Every Connect machine also has a
built-in ambient temperature and humidity sensor, which
will help to optimise the climate control in the weaving
shed at the lowest cost. And as raw material is the biggest
cost factor, each machine can also be equipped with raw
material use monitoring.
Driven by Data
As the machine has more sensors than ever before, it
also generates more data. To enable a fast reaction to
all these sensor data, the BlueBox control unit has been
further optimised: better heat management guarantees
short reaction cycles combined with the long lifetime of
components. To have a good view of all of the data gener-
ated, a special sensor dashboard screen is available in the
BlueTouch display: with a simple touch of the screen, the

39
TVC | Nov 2021
Stäubli at SITEX 2022
Surat International Textile Expo
TVC Editorial Team
A
t SITEX 2022 Surat International Tex-
tile Expo in January 8 to 10, visitors to the
Stäubli booth at No. 226 will learn about
state-of-the-art machinery and system solutions
for optimising workflows in the weaving mill. The
range of Stäubli solutions begins with automation
of weaving preparation and continues throughout a
perfectly coordinated weaving process. Not only can
these systems enhance the efficient performance of
virtually any textile mill, Stäubli offers solutions
that are perfectly adapted to the specific needs of
each individual mill.
Automated warp tying – TIEPRO is the new ‘must
have’: Stäubli offers a complete range of warp tying
(knotting) solutions for every type of yarn. From
very fine to coarse yarns and PPT tapes, Stäubli has
the solution for the perfect warp change. A recent
development is the TIEPRO tying machine, which
offers many unique advantages. The new separat-
ing concept uses spindle cones instead of separation
needles, reducing the need for spare parts, and the
unique double-end-detection feature with auto-re-
verse mode simplifies operation. TIEPRO automat-
ically detects and corrects double ends before the
yarn is cut, which makes for higher quality, faster
processing, and easier operation. The machine does
without an oil bath and provides high availability
for multiple tying processes throughout the shift.
These remarkable advantages make the TIEPRO
tying machine the new ‘must have’ in any mill. For
many visitors to SITEX, the machine will also be a
‘must see’ at Booth 226. While there, they can also
learn more about complementary Stäubli machin-
ery such as the SAFIR automatic drawing-in ma-
chines for efficient style changes, or shed forming
solutions for any application.
Saree Jacquard weaving live at the Stäubli booth:
Exclusively at the Stäubli booth at SITEX 2022,
Jacquard weavers can observe a complete Jac-
quard installation featuring the latest Stäubli Jac-
quard machine in operation producing saree fabric
in three design repeats with a weaving machine of
TIEPRO warp tying machine for all standard yarns
MACHINES &PROCESSES

40 TVC | Nov 2021
380cm reed width. Our latest Jacquard machine is
equipped with the new NOEMI electronic architec-
ture concept that provides reliable data transmis-
sion for hook selection even at high speeds. The
new design offers easy maintenance for higher pro-
duction output. With low-friction engineering and
a special lifting mechanism, operation is highly ef-
ficient and energy efficient. Stäubli Jacquard ma-
chines feature many exclusive novelties that can be
seen at the booth.
High-speed frame weaving machinery answers mar-
ket demands and fast-changing trends: Stäubli of-
fers a large product portfolio of cam motions and
electronic rotary dobbies for frame weaving with
air-jet, water-jet, rapier, and projectile weaving
machines. Visitors to the Stäubli booth will see ex-
amples from this range, e.g. the high-speed S1692
cam motion for rapier and air-jet weaving machines
and the proven S3260 electronic rotary dobby for
air-jet applications. Stäubli cam motions and rotary
dobbies are ideally operated with the new mainte-
nance-free e32 and e33 transmissions. This combi-
nation significantly improves the user-friendliness
of frame weaving, reduces maintenance, and in-
creases the profitability of the entire installation.
Stäubli is a proven partner for Indian weavers
Active in the Indian textile industry for over half
a century, Stäubli is very familiar with the specif-
ics and requirements of Indian weavers and the de-
mands of their markets. To make sure customers get
the most out of their machinery, the Stäubli team
supports them with training programmes, technical
support, and spare parts delivery even years after
the original purchase. Stäubli offers not only ma-
chinery and systems, but solutions that allow weav-
ers to enhance their high-quality productivity and
profit from significant time savings.
Stäubli provides innovative technological solutions
in three dedicated fields of activity: Connectors, Ro-
botics, and Textile. With a workforce of over 5,500,
the company generates an annual turnover exceed-
ing 1.3 billion Swiss francs. Founded in 1892, Stäub-
li is today an international Group with its head of-
fice in Pfäffikon, Switzerland. Stäubli is active on
all major continents and manages 12 production
sites. The Stäubli Group is present in 29 countries
through its sales and customer service subsidiaries.
The Group’s global network is completed by agents
in 50 additional countries.
S1692 cam motion

41
TVC | Nov 2021
Corporate Office : SF-34, Vasant Square, Vasant Kunj, New Delhi – 110070, India
Mobile : +91 98100 09264, 96506 54343 Email : mani@bishnutexport.com
Air Covered Yarns in Nylon-6, Nylon-66 and Polyester
Single Covered Yarns
20 Denier to 250 Denier
for High end Seamless
Knitting and
Medical Bandages
in S & Z twists
Double Covered Yarns
Single And Double Covered Yarns in Nylon-6, Nylon-66
and Polyester

42 TVC | Nov 2021
I
f we throw this question - is there a more versatile textile other than denim
in history? There pops rarely any name, but denim! Ever since the discovery
of this extraordinary woven textile, it has never gone out of fashion. The sil-
houettes might have taken drastic curves on the graph of trends, but the denim
was never categorised as a fad. It is not only extremely versatile in terms of the
number of garments, but all areas of fashion and culture around the world. It has
the quality of blending with other fibres, fabrics and textiles very effortlessly.
The twill weave fabric has certainly become the comfort food of fashion. From
everyday wear to red carpet couture looks, it is widely accepted in forms, shapes,
weights, weaves, blends, washes. Never in history is a textile so much experiment-
ed with and yet does not lose its identity. Today for example, if we see a denim
kurti, we would call it denim before we could call it a kurti. The long list of Indian
textiles gives so much scope for denim to create never-ending fresh styles if amal-
gamated. The simplicity of denim is a perfect contrast to our intrigue designs and
motifs. Indian couture designers are known for experimenting with our textiles,
embroideries, dyeing and printing techniques with different blends of denim so
effortlessly that the first glance at it screams ‘denim can be desi also! ‘The whole
concept of desi denim has evolved with time. The article is to shed light upon
these fusions and understand where denim is heading along with Indian textiles
together.
Despite not being a piece of our nation’s customs and culture, a pair of blue den-
im pants has come to address numerous things in contemporary India. For some
it’s a question of plain solace, a go-to article of clothing for when you’re venturing
out; for other people, it’s an image of trust, of an advanced India where sexual
orientation jobs are gradually dissolving into many shades of progress. For some
purposes, it’s a characteristic of unscrupulousness and there are the individuals
who trust it’s a nostalgic token of India’s prospering indigo economy. Throughout
the long term, and all the more so as of late, India has opened up toward the west-
AMALGAMATION OF DENIM
WITH INDIAN CRAFTS & TEXTILES
Puja Nanda
NIFT Mumbai
Maitri Gandhi
NIFT Mumbai
Image source: Dikshakanna.in
DENIM FUSION

43
TVC | Nov 2021
truly visiting a store. Organisations have been utilising
online media stages as a special instrument as they are
the most advantageous and least expensive method for
correspondence. Denim is a high development class in
the home-grown clothing market. The Indian denim
market is displaying persistent development through-
out the long term. With innovations, patterns and high-
er markets come, this area has promising development
potential. Indeed, even in country areas, denim is turn-
ing out to be profoundly popular with most men and
young person young ladies selecting denim wear over
conventional outfits.
So normally, the area is constrained to oblige an area
of brands, each with its strength. This makes the den-
im market in India exceptionally cutthroat. In addition,
the denim wear market in India is amazingly divided,
which has additionally prompted expanded contests.
India’s promising buyer environment in recent years
has paved the way for probably the greatest brands in
the denim world and their prosperity has consistently
tempted others to investigate the changes in the more
settled Indian waters. Right now, the Indian customers
are at standard with their worldwide friends. They are
much more advanced with their shopping decisions and
are continually looking for curiosity in encounters. So,
ern world and the tendency towards the western way of
dressing – which has consistently continued in the na-
tion and has developed dramatically. The shift towards
denim has been seen because of different reasons, in-
cluding the developing youth populace and mainstream
society impact – a portion of the principal factors behind
the nation’s design upheaval.
Perhaps the greatest trigger for this change in patterns
was the presentation of satellite digital TV in India in
the mid-90s, which brought standard western amuse-
ment and news to India which fundamentally impact-
ed the young people of the time most. As cell phones
keep on penetrating further into more modest urban
communities and towns, the country has progressively
been presented toward the western world and this has
introduced an adjustment of the two insights just as
inclinations. This has most certainly made it advanta-
geous for denim. I think the receptiveness to adjust to
change among individuals comes more from the west-
ern culture, films, big names, web-based media forces to
be reckoned with, and so forth Individuals need to look
great and feel better. Denim’s utilisation as an all-cli-
mate and evergreen piece of attire for all (men, ladies
and even kids) assisted it with standing out enough to
be noticed and made an enormous market that had nev-
er occurred for some other garment prior.
Online business and social media have drastically sup-
ported the development of denim in the country, par-
ticularly in coordinated classification. While the admit-
tance to brands and limits has opened up another field
for consumers, it has likewise been instrumental in fur-
nishing brands with a vigorous stage that guarantees
both openness and infiltration to distant areas.
Online business organisations drove the best change
in the retail business. In a hurry, shopping has turned
into a well-known pattern; purchasers have simple ad-
mittance to an assortment of items online rather than
Image source: Pinterest
Image source: grazia.co.in

Textile Value Chain- Nov 2021

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