Textile value Chain- Oct 2023

OUR GROUP IS ENGAGED INTO FARMING,
GINNING, SPINNING AND KNITTING
Manufacturer and Exporter of :
Indian Raw Cotton.
100% cotton yarn from Ne 16/1 - Ne 40/1
(combed / compact / carded).
Greige knitted fabric (dia 26 to 34 and
gauge 24 & 28), single and double jersey.
Comber noil / Flat / Lickerin.
- Vishal Patel - +91 90990 25052 ; Alkesh Gangani - +91 99788 16999
302-304 Akshat Tower, Near Pakwan Restaurant ||,
Bodakdev, S.G Highway, Ahmedabad, 380054, Gujarat, India.
- yarns@nivagroup.co.in - www.nivagroup.co.in
ISSN NO : 2278-8972 l RNI NO : MAHENG/2012/43707
www.textilevaluechain.in
OCTOBER 2023
VOLUME 11 l ISSUE NO. 10 l RS 100 l PAGES 87

FABRIC INNOVATIONS

Grasim Industries Limited
(VFY - Fashion Yarn Business)
www.raysil.co.in | raysil@adityabirla.com
For trade inquiries, please contact: (Mumbai): +91 22 22027570-77
(Surat): +91 261 4003361/62/66
LUXURIOUS ELEGANCE
for
Made with premium wood pulp, Raysil®
, of 100% natural origin,
gives fabrics a rich lustre, vivid colour, superior drape and a feather-light feel.

)DFWRU6XUYH1R1U5DLOZDURVVLQJ$W6+(0$/$7D*RQGDO'LVW5DMNRW,1',$
3K

COVER STORY
TECHNICAL ARTICLE
SUSTAINABLE FIBER
INTERVIEW
TEXTILE EDUCATION
INNOVATION
EVENT UPDATE
Market Report: Fabric Imports 13
Market Report: Fabric Export 16
Upcoming Events November 2023 10
Fabric and Finishes Innova on: Redeﬁning Tex le
Industry Standards 19
Fabric Trends in the Fes ve Season: A Feast for the
Senses 23
Unraveling the Fabric Trade: Exploring Trends in Imports
and Exports and Their Industry Implica ons 27
Con nuous Fabric Dyeing with Ultra Rapid Indigo Dyeing
(PG) with Sustainable approach. 33
Empowering Style With Sustainability: Birla Cellulose
Expands Por olio With Innova ve Bamboo Rayon Fabric 46
The Yarn Bazaar’s Role in Shivkrupa Cotspin’s Market
Expansion 38Nano-Tex les: Applica ons and challenges 49
Rejuvena ng the Tex le Engineering Educa on in Indian
and South-Asian Universi es 54
The EMPELR Tex le Finish 78
Hewa host First Interna onal Home Tex le Summit (IHTS)
in Varanasi Sparks Global Collabora on and Innova on 66
A rac ng 14,895 trade visitors, Gartex Texprocess India
spins a new success story 74
ITAMMA taking forward the slogan “Atmanirbhar
Bharat” through Seminar on “Skilling, lean Tex le
Technology” 82
NIVA FRONT COVER
RAYSIL FRONT INSIDE
RADHESHYAM SPINNING 3
RAMESWAR 5
SAMBANDAM 7
ITMA ASIA 8
SALONA GROUP 9
OMAX 11
GOKUL YARNS 12
BRUCKNER 14
MICROCHEM 15
RIMTEX 17
ART YARN 18
YAMUNA 21
SSPL 22
SITEX 2024 25
LMW 26
DOMOTEX 31
ALLIANCE FIBRES 32
ZYDEX 36
COLORJET 37
REAL PRINCE 41
TUREL 42
PAMEX 44
UNITECH TEXMACH 45
MEERA INDUSTRIES 47
MOROCCO FASHIONTEX 48
USTER 52
THE X AXIS 53
GSCS 57
AMBICA COTSEEDS 58
JOLLY 62
BADAMI FASHION 64
FIOTEX 65
SHIDDHANATH 69
NEEVA TRADELINK 73
ALLIANCE 76
SHREEJI 77
KING YARNS 79
UNIFORM SPORTSWEAR EXPO 80
ITMACH 81
SAURER 84
TRUTZCHLER 85
SIYARAM BACK INSIDE
RAYMOND BACK COVER
ADVERTISER INDEX
MARKET REPORT
EVENT CALENDER
CONTENT
OCTOBER 2023
4 www.textilevaluechain.in
OUR GROUP IS ENGAGED INTO FARMING,
GINNING, SPINNING AND KNITTING
Manufacturer and Exporter of :
Indian Raw Cotton.
100% cotton yarn from Ne 16/1 - Ne 40/1
(combed / compact / carded).
Greige knitted fabric (dia 26 to 34 and
gauge 24 28), single and double jersey.
Comber noil / Flat / Lickerin.
- Vishal Patel - +91 90990 25052 ; Alkesh Gangani - +91 99788 16999
302-304 Akshat Tower, Near Pakwan Restaurant ||,
Bodakdev, S.G Highway, Ahmedabad, 380054, Gujarat, India.
- yarns@nivagroup.co.in - www.nivagroup.co.in
ISSN NO : 2278-8972 l RNI NO : MAHENG/2012/43707
OCTOBER 2023
VOLUME 11 l ISSUE NO. 10 l RS 100 l PAGES 68
RQQHFWLQJ7KH*OREDO7H[WLOHV7RJHWKHU
FABRIC INNOVATIONS
RSB COTTEX GATEFOLD

Super Combed Compact Yarn (Ne 10s to Ne 80s)
Combed Yarn (Ne 10s to Ne 50s)
Carded Yarn (Ne 10s to Ne 40s)
Open End Yarns (Ne 6s to Ne 20s)
TFO Doubled Yarns
All Yarns for Knitting and Weaving purpose
RAMESWAR UDYOG PRIVATE LIMITED
404 BALLESWAR SQUARE, 4TH FLOOR,
S. G. ROAD, OPP ISCON TEMPLE,
AHMEDABAD 380015, INDIA
+919998007171
+91 79-40215500
www.rameswar.com
ruchi@rameswar.com

OCTOBER 2023
Fabric Trends : Sustainable ,
Recycling , NonWovens
ndian and Global tex le industry developing innova on
with Sustainable and Recycled fabrics. This segment have
highest innova on possibility in terms weave cra ing, knit
design, lamina on, non wovens with print, dyes and colors,
processing etc..
Sustainable Fabrics are new trends where natural fibres , dyed
with natural and organic products and finished with again the
organic products. This trend is new in India, acceptance is
miniscule due to cost and price sensi ve market. Sustainable
fabrics are also have many medicinal proper es which is
important for skin protec on, keep away skin irrita on, rashes,
damages of internal organ and many more. In Developed
economy , consumer knows the importance of the global
environment changes which is impac ng life and physical well
being, they are moving towards the sustainable products.
Recycled Fabrics have 2 trends, mechanical recycled fabrics and
chemical recycled fabrics. Recycled fabrics trends are also used
in many areas like sports tex les ( garments, shoes ), home
tex les , apparels . Recycled fabrics can be from natural fibres
but majorly its synthe c fibres , due to pet bo le usage in the
process, kni ed and woven. Recycled Fabrics in apparel may
have some implica on, as synthe c material touches body, but
it can be widely used in Shoes, many global brands like NIKE,
Decathlon, many more started using recycled fabrics. Recycled
Fabrics with good finishes are making it look and feel of like
natural fabrics.
Nonwoven Fabrics, for Technical tex le with addi on of
fashion, color, design aspects make this fabrics also interes ng
and vibrant, lot more research and innova on need to be done
in this sector. Nonwoven is compressed material of co on or
synthe c yarns; widely used in medical, FMCG, automobile,
Agriculture industry.
Simple test to see whether its natural or synthe c fabrics,
just rub fabrics for 2 minutes, if heat produced during fric on
between fingers and fabrics then its synthe c fabrics, if not
heat, then its natural and sustainable fibre fabric.
EDITORIAL TEAM
EDITOR AND PUBLISHER
Jigna Shah
EDITORIAL ASSISTANT
Gargi Dandegaonkar
CREATIVE DESIGNER
Asif Khan
MARKETING AND ADVERTISING ENQUIRY
Mohammad Tanweer
+91-9167986305
sales@tex levaluechain.com
REGISTERED OFFICE:
TVC MEDIA AND PROMOTION PVT LTD.
504, Suchita Business Park, Patel Chowk,
Pantnagar, Ghatkopar (East),
Mumbai- 400075, Maharashtra, INDIA.
Cell: +91-9769442239
Email: info@tex levaluechain.com
Web: www.tex levaluechain.com
Owner, Publisher, Printer and Editor
Ms. Jigna Shah
Printed and Processed by her at, Impression
Graphics, Gala no.13, Shivai Industrial Estate,
Andheri Kurla Road, Sakinaka, Andheri(East),
Mumbai 400072, Maharashtra, India.
All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduc on
of any of the content from this issue is
prohibited without explicit wri en permission
of the publisher. Every effort has been made
to ensure and present factual and accurate
informa on. The views expressed in the
ar cles published in this magazine are
that of the respec ve authors and not
necessarily that of the publisher. Tex le Value
chain is not responsible for any unlikely errors
that might occur or any steps taken based in the
informa on provided herewith.
Editorial +91-9869634305
marke ng@tex levaluechain.com
Jigna Shah
I

OCTOBER 2023
Event Calender
UPCOMING
EVENTS
EVENTS November 2023
1st-7th Nov
47TH EDITION OF BAGHDAD INTERNATIONAL FAIR
Baghdad, Iraq
h ps://ﬁeo.org
2nd-3rd Nov
24TH INTERNATIONAL CONFERENCE INDIAN
PETROCHEM – 2023
Mumbai, India
h ps://www.eliteconferences.com/home/indianpet-
rochem-2023/
2nd-3rd Nov
AUTOEV TECH-VISION SUMMIT 2023
Bengaluru, India
h ps://www.autoevexpo.com/book-a- cket/
6th-8th Nov
Yarn Expo Shenzhen
Shenzhen, China
h ps://yarnexpo-shenzhen.hk.messefrankfurt.com/
shenzhen/en.html
6th-9th Nov
10TH IME 2023
Kolkata,India
h ps://miningexpoindia.com/
6th-9th Nov
AFEV 2023
Kolkata,India
h ps://www.alternateenergyexpo.com/
6th-9th Nov
ISME 2023
Kolkata, India
h ps://www.steelandmetallurgyexpo.com/
6th-9th Nov
INTERNATIONAL CONSTRUCTION, EQUIPMENT
MATERIALS EXHIBITION
Kolkata, India
h ps://www.cemindiaexpo.com/
6th-11th Nov
FIHAV 2023
CUBA, Carribbean.
h ps://www.belize.org/events/39th-edi-
on-of-the-havana-interna onal-fair-ﬁhav-2023/
15th-17th Nov
Morocco FashionTex Style
OFEC Casablanca/ Morocco
h ps://moroccofashiontex.net/
19th-23rd Nov
ITMA ASIA + CITME 2022
Shanghai, China
h ps://www.itmaasia.com/
21st-23rd Nov
FAST TEXTILE 2023
Poland, Europe.
h ps://fas ex le.com/en/
27th-29th Nov
16TH INTERNATIONAL APPAREL TEXTILE FAIR
Dubai, UAE.
h ps://www.interna onalapparelandtex lefair.com/
30th-2nd Dec
ITME AFRICA M.E. 2023
Nairobi, Kenya
h ps://www.itme-africa.com/

13
OCTOBER 2023
Market Report: Fabric Imports
Units : USD Million

A novel product for pretreatment
Scouring and bleaching at low temperature
57, Maha Gujarat Industrial Estate, Sarkhej Bavla Road, Opp. Sarvoday Hotel, Moraiya, Ahmedabad-382 213 INDIA
Website: www.microchem.co E-mail: info@microchem.co Mobile: +91 98251 23800
57, Maha Gujarat Industrial Estate, Sarkhej Bavla Road, Opp. Sarvoday Hotel, Moraiya, Ahmedabad-382 213 INDIA
Website: www.microchem.co E-mail: info@microchem.co Mobile: +91 98251 23800
Scouring and bleaching at lower temperature of 80 °C
Minimize weight loss to a great extent
Higher CSP, RKM, tensile and bursting strength
Crease formation is greatly reduced for knits
Saves time and energy, increases productivity
Chemistry with Vision...
100
90
80
70
60
50
40
30
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
100
90
Time / min.
Temp
ºC
Conventional process 98 ºC
Low temperature process 80 ºC
Ultratreat

OCTOBER 2023
Market Report: Fabric Export
Units : USD Million

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www.textilevaluechain.in 19
OCTOBER 2023
Cover Story
By Susmita Ghosh
uch advancements are extremely crucial as
they have not only revolu onised the industry
and tex le produc on but also carved a be er
way for the use of func onal, sustainable and
not-to-men on aesthe cally appealing materials.
Before delving into the key breakthroughs of fabric
and finishes, it is important to understand what helped
India achieve a 4.6% share of the global trade in tex les
and apparel.
Sustainability Ini a ves:
Considering the growing focus of the Indian Tex le
Industry on sustainability, adop ng eco-friendly
processes, water conserva on techniques, sustainable
and organic materials along with reduced energy
consump on have helped manufacturers incorporate
new ways of innova on in the related field.
Technical Tex les:
The growth of the technical tex le sector has also
served as a helping hand. With increased demand in
industries like healthcare, automo ve and agriculture,
innova ons in fabric and finishes were seen. Fabrics
with fire resistance, UV protec on and fabrics with
an microbial proper es are a few such examples.
Digital Prin ng:
The demand for digital prin ng tex les has grown
exponen ally in the past few years, allowing more
intricate and precise designs on fabrics. Apart from
that, minimised waste, and compara vely reduced
water consump on are a few other benefits.
Innova ve Finishes:
As the demands grew in the areas such as sports and
hard-core industries, many innova ve fabric finishes
were introduced. Fabrics with moisture-wicking,
odour-resistant and stain-repellent finishes are a few
such examples.
Smart Tex les:
Integra on of electronics into tex les became an
emerging trend. The usage of sensors, LEDs and other
electronic components transformed a normal fabric
Fabric and Finishes
Innovation: Redefining
Textile Industry Standards
In recent years,
the tex le industry
has witnessed a
remarkable surge in
innova on, par cularly
in the realm of fabric
and finishes.
S

OCTOBER 2023
into a smart tex le. Usage of such fabrics is evident in
sports, fashion and healthcare.
Handloom Revival:
The revival of India’s tradi onal handloom fabrics was
a considerable step. Driven by consumer demand for
sustainable and authen c tex les, many weavers and
ar sans started adop ng contemporary styles while
preserving the conven onal methods.
Government Ini a ves:
The Indian government launched several ini a ves to
promoteinnova onintex les.TechnologyUpgrada on
Fund Scheme (TUFS) to encourage modernisa on and
research and development in the sector is one such
example. In 2022, the government issued a Quality
Control Order (QCO) on the import of Viscose Staple
Fibre (VSF), a sustainable alterna ve to co on.
India, being one of the world’s largest exporters of
tex les and garments, innova ons in fabrics and
finishes were a much-needed step to maintain and
expand its market share. Presently, India is the second
largest producer of Man-made Fibre (MMF). Even
though the focus was majorly on co on exports, India’s
export of MMF tex les and apparel was recorded at
USD 9.56 billion for the financial year 2021-22. Owing
to India’s poten al, the Ministry of Tex le formed a
Tex le Advisory Group on MMF in January 2023 to
increase focus on the area. Here are a few innova ons
that can be witnessed in the tex le industry:
One of the most significant strides is the emergence
of smart fabrics. Such tex les are integrated with
conduc ve materials or electronic components or
wastes like mangoes, mushrooms and apple peels.
Such fabrics help judiciously interact with their
environment. From moisture-wicking workout gear,
and self-hea ng jackets to Pinatex and Leaf Leather,
smart fabrics are transforming the apparel industry
both in terms of limited wastage and enhanced comfort
and func onality.
Nanotechnology has found a promising applica on in
tex les. The use of metal and metal oxide nanopar cle
proper es to interact with light and microorganisms
is one such recent innova on. Dispersing organic
embedded metal oxide and zinc oxide nanopar cles
in a soluble starch matrix to improve an bacterial
proper es and manage UV radia on is another
example. Addi onally, nanotechnology helps in the
development of self-cleaning tex les. It reduces the
need for harsh chemicals in laundry.
Plasma technology uses electricity to turn gases into
‘cold plasma’ which can change the fabric surface
without deteriora ng the quality. It can also be used on
materials like polypropylene and polyethylene which
have a very low mel ng point. Plasma technology
helps get rid of any stuff on the fabric and prepares it
to have new things added to its surface.
Microencapsula on is a process where a con nuous
film of polymeric material is coated into very ny
droplets of liquid par cles or solid material, forming
Microencapsulos. These capsules help fragrance-emit-
ng fabrics retain their odour for a longer dura on.
Currently, microencapsula on can be done in two
methods - Padding and Exhaus ng.
The usage of clay finishing and composite fibres has
been widely accepted due to its low cost. The micro-
structural layer proper es in clay materials are used.
In an experiment, where polymers were infused with
2-5% nanoclays, significant improvement was observed
in barrier proper es, flame retardant capacity and
dimensionalstability.Thisinnova onisusedprimarilyin
synthe c polymers such as polypropylene, polyamide,
polyethylene terephthalate, and polyethylene fibres.
Fabric and finishes Innova on has significantly
developed the tex le industry and is con nuing to do
so by pushing the boundaries at a faster pace. From
sustainable materials to fragrance-emi ng fabrics,
these advancements are transforming the way we
approach tex les. As technology con nues to advance,
we can expect more upgrades in technology and
material, further revolu onising the world of fabrics
and finishes.
Cover Story

Presently we are selling to more than 40 countries, our major business comes from countries like – Bangladesh,
China, Portugal, Sri lanka, , Vietnam, USA, Chile, Peru,Thailand, Poland, Korea. We also have a domestic
division, which suppliesyarn to our clients within India. We are facilitating approx 18~20 containers
per month in Exports and approx 400 tons per month in our domestic business.
sumitsinghal.sspl@gmail.com +91 98370 94847
Soft Yarn for Blankets, Bath Mats Hand Knitting:
Ne 6/2/3, Ne 6/2/4, Ne 4/2,Ne 4/4, Ne 6/2
133-A NAND NAGAR, INDUSTRIAL ESTATE, PHASE - II, KASHIPUR DESTT. UDHAM SINGH NAGAR,
UTTRAKHAND - 244713
PRODUCT RANGE
We are working with brands like HM, IKEA, INDITEX and many more
100% Cotton Open End Knitting Yarn:
Ne 8/1, 10/1, 12/1, 14/1, 16/1, 20/1, 24/1, 26/1, 30/1
Open End for Weaving / Denim:
Ne 4/1, 6/1, 7/1, 8/1, 10/1, 12/1, 16/1, 20/1
Industrial yarns:
Ne 20/4, 12/4, 6/6, 10/8
Double OE Yarn for Weaving:
Ne 4/2, 4/4, 6/2, 6/3, 8/2, 10/2, 10/3,12/2 16/2
Cotton/Polyester Open End yarn:
Ne 6/1, 7/1, 8/1, 10/1, 12/1, 16/1, 20/1, 24/1, 30/1
Cotton/Viscose Open End yarn:
Ne 6/1, 7/1, 8/1, 10/1, 12/1, 16/1, 20/1
Cotton/Bamboo Open End yarn:
Ne 6/1, 7/1, 8/1, 10/1, 12/1, 16/1, 20/1
Cotton/Excel(Lyocell) Open End yarn:
Ne 6/1, to Ne 26/1

OCTOBER 2023
t is the promising me to dig through the enchan ng
world of fabrics, be it tex le, color, or designs.
What 2023 has in store? What are the new fabric
trends that will set the tone for joyful celebra ons?
Let’s have a look!
The Classic linen is an all- me favorite among the
fashion enthusiasts. The come-back is strong and
perfect for the present climate scenarios. The natural
sheen and refinement ensure an enduring elegance
that lasts as long as you desire. The possibili es for
ou its are limitless, from sophis cated formals to
trendy dresses, striking a perfect balance between
style and comfort.
Shimmering sequins and metallic fabrics have been
a go-to choice among those in the limelight. Be it a
metallic-threaded saree or a sequined cocktail dress
like materials reflect an aura of celebra on. “Trends
are moving away from stereotypical bling into a more
subtle, muted, tone on tone look and feel. This is the
Neo Metallic for the fes ve season,” suggested Pankaj
Kapoor, Founder Partner, BMS Fashion when asked
if diverse metallic hues are redefining celebratory
fashion. Gold and silver are meless classics, however,
the contemporary fes ve season has witnessed
enthusiasts embracing a wide spectrum of shades like
copper, rose gold, bronze, so on and so forth.
Synonymous with grandeur and luxury, silk has been a
staple choice, especially in the western, eastern, and
southern corners of India. Be it the tradi onal sarees
or the modern drapes, the natural sheen and so ness
of the fabric are the top quali es that have made it
so popular, especially during the fes ve seasons. The
fusion of conven onal and modern design elements,
crea ng eye-catching and unique ensembles
celebra ng heritage and innova on, is what we have
seen in the recent past!
While asking his envision on sustainable materials
contribu ng to a more environmentally conscious
approach to celebra ng, Pankaj Kapoor asserted,
“There is definitely a demand and awareness for more
sustainable fabrics like recycled polyester, organic
co ons, etc. The market cap is growing slowly, crea ng
a niche. However, the cost disparity coupled with rising
infla on is an obstacle for the cause.”
The fes ve season is the best me to highlight its
importance.Therehasbeenashi towardseco-friendly
fabrics among conscious customers and the fes ve
season is no excep on. Sustainable fabrics like organic
Fabric Trends
in the Festive
Season: A Feast
for the Senses
By Susmita Ghosh
In India, ‘September’ blows the trumpet marking the beginning of the fes ve season. A span of joy and
celebra on! Fabrics are an integral element that highlights these moments of joy. Even though the world is
transcending towards a ‘hep’ culture, a mix of contemporary and cultural influences emerges a new wave of
fabric trends during the fes ve seasons.
I
Cover Story

OCTOBER 2023
co on, bamboo linen, Cashmere, and Econyl are a few
examples that we expect to see this year. Embracing
natural hues, minimalist designs, and earthy textures
while reducing the environmental footprint of our
celebra ons, is a celebra on in itself!
Organza, a delicate and translucent fabric, has gained
popularity as a choice for fes ve a re. With a touch
of romance and sophis ca on, this ethereal fabric is
perfect for gowns, blouses, and the six-yard beauty!
The minimalist floral designs with a metallic touch on
the fabric have become a signature style. Considering
its mul -purpose proper es, this fabric is perfect for
the fes ve weather and gives its se ngs a dreamy and
whimsical ambiance. The fes ve season provides an
ideal canvas for showcasing the ar stry of embroidery
and handwork, given the Indian fes ve environment.
FromintricatezardoziandmirrorworkinIndiana reto
delicate beading and lace in Western fashion, the detail
and cra smanship in fes ve fabrics are awe-inspiring.
Such adornments not only add a personalized glimmer
to apparel and decor but also make every piece a work
of art.
Nostalgia o en plays a role in fes ve style. Brocade and
Jacquard are fabrics inspired by vintage fashions that
exude an insight of meless refinement. Be it jacquard
suits or brocade sarees, such fabrics bring a touch of
old-charm to contemporary celebra ons. Moreover,
such fabrics are known for their intricate pa erns and
textured surfaces. “This fes ve season, we are pushing
a range of embroidered fabrics, structures, jacquard’s
and dobbys. People are gravita ng towards ethnic
and Indo-Western ensembles. There is also a fresher
take on metallics like tone on tone Lurex,” said Pankaj
Kapoor.
While solids and tradi onal pa erns have their place in
fes ve fashion, playful and unconven onal prints are
gaining momentum. Bold florals, geometric designs,
whimsical mo fs, abstract art are more in demand as
the fes ve celebra ons approach. Such fes ve a re
with prints and pa erns is taking on a more diverse and
individualis c character. Fashion forward approaches
like mixing and matching different prints has allowed
individuals to ar culate their phenomenal style during
the joyous season.
Whether it’s a tasseled hemline on a dress,
fringe-trimmedcurtains,ortassel-adornedaccessories,
tassel and fringe embellishments sway and dance with
movement, crea ng an element of fun and fes vity.
Vibrant, mul -colored tassels are par cularly popular,
injec ng a burst of energy into the fes vi es. They
add a playful and bohemian touch not only in fes ve
fashion but also in case of fes ve decor.
Velvet is one such fabric that is a perennial favorite.
Jewel tones like emerald green, royal blue, and deep
burgundy are currently trending and adorned during
the fes ve seasons. Moreover, velvet has experienced
a revival in vogue in recent years. Being a meless
fabric that never goes out of style, the deep style, lush
texture, and inherent opulence make it the perfect
choice among fashion enthusiasts. Velvet suits, dresses
add an air of sophis ca on to fes ve gatherings. Such
fabrics also look good on home decor items like throw
pillows and tablecloths.
The fes ve seasons open up all the routes to express
one’s individuality and crea vity through the fabrics be
it welcoming tradi on or blazing a new fashion trail.
The fes ve fashion serves as a deligh ul feast for the
senses. As the fes ve season approaches, the world of
fabrics unlocks a new array of fashion lines. Catering to
every taste and sensibility, be it the meless allure of
linens, the eco-consciousness of sustainable fabric, or
the shimmering sequins, the fabrics celebrate fes vals
in their unique ways.

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SUSTAINABLE
SMART
INNOVATING VERSATILITY, RELIABILITY, AND SUSTAINABILITY
ACROSS APPLICATIONS

he tex le and apparel industry is a vital sector
of India’s economy, contribu ng signiﬁcantly to
employment genera on and export earnings.
The trends in imports and exports of fabrics
in India play a crucial role in shaping the dynamics
of this industry. India’s export value for 2022-23 was
Rs 362,063,094.86, compared to Rs 314,702,149.28
in 2021-22. Similarly, for imports India’s total value
stands at Rs 573,395,859.64 in 2022-23 compared to
Rs 457,277,458.91 in 2021-22. The value of India’s
exports and imports in 2023-24(Apr-Jun) stands at Rs
113,836,644.90 and Rs 175,229,305.66, respec vely.
Having said that, let’s have a look at the country’s
posi on in exports and imports related to fabrics.
India’s Fabric Export Trend
Fig 1.1: India’s Fabric Export Data (Graph Format) *
Source: Trade Sta s cs, Ministry of Commerce, GOI
Commodity 2021-2022 (Rs) 2022-2023(Rs) 2023-2024(Apr-Jun)
Co on 8,043,453.61 4,534,888.93 1,735,180.43
Furskins and Ar ﬁcial Fur (Manufactures) 17,826.02 11,869.24 3,058.26
Impregnated, Coated, Covered or Laminated Tex le
Fabrics; Tex le Ar cles for industrial use.
330,335.88 312,899.32
130,822.05
Kni ed or Crocheted Fabrics. 633,974.89 461,096.15 113,003.30
Other Vegetable Tex le Fibres; Paper Yarn and Woven
Fabrics of Paper Yarn. 503,460.56 374,063.05 115,257.87
Raw Hides and Skins (Other Than Furskins) and Leather 340,743.00 346,836.56 124,618.37
Silk 86,703.59 81,168.05 30,750.64
Special Woven Fabrics; Tu ed Tex le Fabrics; Lace;
Tapestries; Trimmings; Embroidery. 275,892.50 278,403.40 111,229.16
Fig 1.2: India’s Fabric Export Data (Tabular Format) *
Unraveling the Fabric Trade: Exploring
Trends in Imports and Exports and
Their Industry Implications
By Susmita Ghosh
T
Cover Story
OCTOBER 2023

OCTOBER 2023
Cover Story
Fig 1.3: India’s Fabric Export % Share (Graph Format) *
India’s Fabric Import Trend
Fig 2.1: India’s Fabric Import Data(Graph Format) *
Commodity 2021-2022 (Rs) 2022-2023(Rs) 2023-2024 (Apr-Jun)
Raw Hides and Skins (Other Than Furskins) and Leather 316,488.17 386,928.34 116,110.95
Furskins and Ar ﬁcial Fur (Manufactures) 4,011.16 4,794.05 2,857.57
Silk 110,486.66 217,381.74 61,154.09
Wool, Fine Or Coarse Animal Hair, Horsehair Yarn and
Woven Fabric. 208,429.17 255,919.62 95,566.09
Co on 550,826.59 1,362,869.42 289,143.10
Other Vegetable Tex le Fibres; Paper Yarn and Woven
Fabrics of Paper Yarn.
313,563.38 419,930.96
151,869.22
Special Woven Fabrics; Tu ed Tex le Fabrics; Lace;
Tapestries; Trimmings; Embroidery. 184,017.53 174,419.13 57,119.27
Impregnated, Coated, Covered or Laminated Tex le
Fabrics; Tex le Ar cles suitable for industrial use.
636,871.89 690,095.96
227,122.50
Kni ed or Crocheted Fabrics. 502,222.64 607,397.14 200,670.57
Other Made Up Tex le Ar cles; Sets; Worn Clothing
and Worn Tex le Ar cles; Rags
463,300.08 506,014.45
165,915.08
Footwear, Gaiters and The Like; Parts of Such Ar cles. 479,751.01 739,771.13 246,458.64
Fig 2.2: India’s Fabric Import Data (Tabular Format) * Source: Trade Sta s cs, Ministry of Commerce, GOI
Fig 2.3: India’s Fabric Import % Share (Graph Format) *
India’s Fabric Export and Import Growth Trends
Fig 3.1: India’s Fabric Export % Growth (Graph Format) *

OCTOBER 2023
Fig 3.2: India’s Fabric Import % Growth (Graph Format) *
Fig 3.2: India’s Fabric Export and Import % Growth
2023-24 from April to June (Graph Format) *
Commodity %Share (Export) %Share (Import)
Co on. 1.5243 0.165
Furskins And Ar ﬁcial Fur, Manufactures Thereof. 0.0027 0.0016
Impregnated, Coated, Covered Or Laminated Tex le Fabrics; Tex le Ar cles
Of A Kind Suitable For Industrial Use. 0.1149 0.1296
Kni ed Or Crocheted Fabrics. 0.0993 0.1145
Other Vegetable Tex le Fibres; Paper Yarn And Woven Fabrics Of Paper Yarn. 0.1012 0.0867
Raw Hides And Skins (Other Than Furskins) And Leather 0.1095 0.0663
Silk 0.027 0.0349
Special Woven Fabrics; Tu ed Tex le Fabrics; Lace; Tapestries; Trimmings;
Embroidery. 0.0977 0.0326
Fig 3.4: India’s Fabric Export and Import % Growth
2023-24 from April to June (Tabular Format) *
Takeaway
The trends in imports and exports of fabrics have
far-reaching implica ons for India’s tex le industry.
Staying informed about these trends and adap ng to
changing market dynamics are essen al for businesses
to remain compe ve and contribute to the growth of
the tex le sector in India.
* The fabric-related commodi es are within the Top
100 2-level commodi es as men oned in the Ministry
of Commerce website, Government of India, as of
September 2023. The values are given in Indian Rupees
(Rs).

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Technical Article
Index Terms- Indigo Fabric dyeing, Ultra Rapid Indigo
Dyeing, Zero trade effluent, ZLD, Eco-friendly Dyeing,
Sustainability
1 Introduc on
Indigo yarn dyed fabrics are the most popular and
fashionable woven wear for all genera ons. The global
jeans business is increasing in a dras c way because
of its comfort-ability, trend, and performance. Till
today majority of the indigo yarn dyeing produc on
is done in the conven onal way using slasher, rope
dyeing machines. There have been advancements in
these conven onal technologies for achieving specific
goals like super dark shades, mul ple color dyeing,
precise e controls for be er workability, adaptability
for running various processes, also modifica ons to
achieve sustainability etc. A Sustainable future can be
achieved if usage of less energy, less chemicals and less
water is emphasized.
Various Pad-Fixa on dyeing processes with a
sustainable approach are
• Pad-roll-batch
• Pad-dry-cure
Continuous Fabric Dyeing with Ultra
Rapid Indigo Dyeing(PG)
with Sustainable
approach
Abstract: Denim is a unisex fashionable warp dyed woven wear for all genera ons. The global jeans business is
increasing steadily because of its comfort-ability, trend, and performance. Denim yarn indigo dyeing produc on
is done in the conven onal way using slasher, rope dyeing machines. Till today fabric dyeing using indigo color
is challenging due to technological limita ons. Many a empts have been made to dye indigo in fabric form with
few excep ons but could not be commercialized. Looking at the conven onal Indigo yarn dyeing process which
requires pretreatment, washing, ba ery of (dip, nip air) indigo dyeing followed by washing, drying and sizing
beaming or batching seems to be too lengthy for fabric which may need utmost care in every step to ensure that
the fabric is dyed evenly. Hence to dye Indigo in fabric form, a new approach is made in a sustainable way by
using the Ultra-Rapid dyeing technology.
This technology primarily focuses on the concept of Ultra-Rapid indigo dyeing. Here the substan vely of the
indigo solu on is tremendously increased by achieving the required physico-chemical parameters in an inert
atmosphere. This enables the super substan ve leuco indigo to instantaneously penetrate with a decreasing
gradient in the core of the fiber. Thus giving darker shades at minimal contact me. This evolved technology has
been successfully tested on various fabrics of different blends, weaves, gsm and lengths. This technology is being
developed for achieving sustainability in indigo dyeing. Notably this technology enables near- zero water denim
dyeing, contribu ng to environmental conserva on.
By Bhushan Chaudhari, Jaydeep Umalkar – Atharvaved Impex,
Maharashtra, India,
By Pradeep Pillai - WFB Baird Co India Pvt. Ltd. Kochi, Kerala, India
OCTOBER 2023

OCTOBER 2023
• Pad-steam Fix
• Pad-dry-bake
• Pad-Air-Dry
• Eco-control dyeing
• Pad-Ox processes
Ultra rapid dyeing technology [PG]
has been developed
using the pad dry bake method of dye applica ons.
Pad dyeing’s are be er than exhaust dyeing’s from a
sustainability perspec ve [1]. Because these offer the
following benefits.
- Faster dye applica on
- Minimum liquor to material ra o
- Electrolyte free exhaus on
- Lower quan es of le -over dye liquor
- Easier dyeing control for dye levelness on the fabric
Exhaustdyeingmachinesfacilitatedyeing’sasminimum
as 3:1 liquor to material ra os, whereas pad dyeing’s
are carried out at much lower liquor ra os between
1:1 and 0.5:1 resul ng in increased dye uptake at low
liquor ra os. Thus deeper shades can be dyed with
op mum quan es of dyes, chemicals and water. Low
liquor ra os also reduces the amount of dye, chemicals
and water discharged to treatment plants.
Widthwise, lengthwise uniformity and depth of shade
depends on below factors.
• Machine factors - dwell me, mangle expression,
temperature, pressure, dye liquor turnover
ra o, agita on mechanism, circula on, effec ve
interac on of dye liquor and fabric
• Substrate Factors – fiber proper es, fiber
type composi on, yarn twist structure, type
of pretreatment, evenness in pretreatment,
absorbency, construc on of fabric, moisture
content, residual chemicals, overall dye affinity for
the substrate.
• Other factors – dye concentra on, dye bath ra o,
dye bath addi ves, dye bath pH control, dye
stability, dye aggrega on, preferen al dye uptake,
dye reac on me, fixa on me, possible impuri es
from fabric prepara on to dye bath.
A erpaddingfixa onofdyesiseitherdonebysteaming
or curing in specially designed con nuously operated
chambers. At the end of the pad dyeing process, all
the dye liquor in its concentrated form remaining
in the trough, piping and pumps is drained [2]. The
volume of le over dye liquor drained depends upon
the design and capacity of the trough. Many machine
manufacturers have introduced low capacity of troughs
volumes as 10 to 15 L, such low trough volumes has
improved dyeing efficiency and reduced the wastages
[3] here ver cal pad systems are used. Where as in
horizontal pad designs the dye liquor volumes are s ll
low where the trough is formed in the nip between the
squeezing rollers. Such pad designs are regarded as the
best available equipment’s for reducing the dye bath
le over wastages [2]
Keeping sustainability in focus i.e. (environment,
economicandsocial)[4]variousemergingtechnologies
are con nuously worked upon by scien sts and
industrialists to reduce consump on of water, energy
and chemicals, and waste water pollu on from dyeing
processes.
Many new technologies are been tested such as
ultrasonic energy, electrochemical technology,
microwave, UV radia on, RF, PEF, plasma and
supercri cal carbon dioxide. Some of them are finding
their way towards commercializa on.
Ultrasonic energy in wet processing have shown
promising results and have opened an opportunity
to increase the process effec veness and reduce the
process dura on for many cri cal wet tex le processes.
It has shown reduc on in consump on of energy,
water and chemical, with improvement in colour yields
and reduc on in wastewater pollu on [5,6]. The use
of ultrasonic energy on a produc on scale, mostly
for exhaust and some pad-batch dyeing’s of cellulose
fabrics with reac ve dyes, has also been tested and
reported [7].
UV irradia on can be successfully applied to enhance
the colour strength as well as colour fastness
proper es of colored silk and flax fabrics by improving
their we ability [8]. The use of Ultraviolet curable
dyeing liquors and finishing chemicals could has place
in order to save both energy and me, and to create
“new tex le products” [9].
Reduc on and oxida on of sulphur dyes and vat dyes,
Technical Article

OCTOBER 2023
using electrochemical methods, is an emerging area.
So far, electrochemical reduc on and oxida on have
been shown to reduce wastewater pollu on [10].
Microwave hea ng can improve the dye uptake and
dye fixa on [11, 12], however, efforts are laid to make
it viable on a produc on scale. Supercri cal carbon
dioxide and plasma have been reported as ways to
carry out waterless dyeing [13, 14].
Indigo a prehistoric color documented was dyed on
tex le materials in wooden pots or vats in the early
days and are water-insoluble colored compounds [15].
Indigo is insoluble in water and cannot be directly
dyed. To make this dye soluble, two steps of reac on
is required. First, reduc on of vat dye into leuco vat
dye by sodium hydrosulphite. Second, neutraliza on of
leuco vat dye with caus c soda to give soluble sodium
salt of leuco vat dye. Indigo dyeing in the conven onal
con nuous process involving pretreatment with
caus c followed by washing followed by dyeing in a 4
to 16 ba ery of dip in indigo bath nip to extract excess
color and aera on to oxidize the indigo color followed
by rinsing at ambient temperatures in 2-3 rinsing baths
a er oxida on is normally adequate to remove alkali
and unfixed oxidized leuco compounds [16].
Denim is a co on warp facing twill fabric where the
we passes below two or more warp threads [16].
Conven onal denim manufacturing process involve
warping, dyeing, sizing, weaving, finishing, and
inspec on. Denim is always warp dyed where warp is
dyed a er warping and we is mostly white co on yarn
but as per trends these can be dyed co on, blended
white/dyed, synthe c white /dyed, regenerated white
/dyed. Indigo solids are in trend where the warp and
we both are indigo dyed. Here indigo dyed sized warp
is prepared as per the conven onal slasher or rope
process.Forwe theIndigodyedyarnispreparedasper
the conven onal indigo rope dyeing process followed
by conver ng the re-beamed dyed yarn in cone form
using the beam to cone conversion machine. There
are always several produc on and environmental
challenges associated with this conven onal process
for producing consistent indigo solids.
Produc on challenges in Tradi onal Dyeing –
Produc on challenges involves physical and chemical
wear and tear of the material in process due to long
passage lengths, limita ons in usage of minimum lot
length, consistent and even depth of shade in warp and
we , challenges related to maintaining the physical
proper es, limita ons in use of blends, construc on,
weave gsm.
Environmental challenges in Tradi onal Dyeing –
Tradi onal Indigo dyeing is a heavy natural resource
consuming process. High amounts of water flow in
pre-wash boxes are required to rinse out caus c soda
and other auxiliaries completely from the substrate.
Con nuous rinsing also reduces the yarn temperature
thereby preparing the substrate for indigo dyeing at
room temperature. In Post-wash boxes to rinse out
unfix dyes and chemicals from dyed yarn surface. Huge
amount of other resources like steam, compressed air
and power is also consumed in running the tradi onal
indigodyeingmachineswhichalsoaddstothecostsand
various environmental factors. As per the Greenpeace
report for producing two billion jeans pants every year,
it takes a total of 1.7 million tons of chemicals and
water consump on can reach as much as 7,000 liters
per one pair [17]. Consump on of large quan es of
chemicals and freshwater ends up in increased product
cost and larger volume of chemically loaded effluents;
par cularly high pH and high quan ty of sulfate salts
due to sodium dithionite followed by unfixed indigo
dye and their byproducts [18].
Considera on all the associated drawbacks for
indigo solids fabric manufacturing using tradi onal
indigo colora on process, Ultra Rapid Indigo dyeing
technology[PG]
has been developed. Thus achieving
the most required sustainability. In this evolved
dyeing method the substan vety of the leuco indigo
is exponen ally increased by maintaining the required
physico-chemical parameters in an inert atmosphere.
This enables the super substan ve leuco indigo to in-
stantaneously penetrate with a decreasing gradient
in the core of the fiber. Thus giving darker shades at
minimalcontact me.Thisevolvedtechnologyhasbeen
successfully tested on co on, bast and regenerated
yarns with certain precondi ons. Here near zero
water indigo dyeing has been made possible using the
Ultra-Rapid indigo dyeing technology [PG]
ul mately
achieving the most sustainable indigo dyeing. Linen
yarn is very difficult to run on conven onal indigo
dyeing machines and dyed linen yarn is difficult to

OCTOBER 2023
Technical Article
weave due to many known reasons. Grey or RFD linen
fabric of any gsm, construc on, weave and type can be
easily woven in fabric form. These linen fabrics can be
easily dyed from few meters to thousands of meters
in this con nuous Ultra Rapid Indigo fabric dyeing
machine.
2 Materials and Ultra Rapid dyeing Method[PG]
2.1: Linen Fabric.
2.2 Chemicals –Ready premix of liquid indigo solu on.
2.3: Ultra rapid Indigo dyeing[PG]
method
2.3.1: Ready premix of Liquid Indigo Dye solu on –
Here ready premix of liquid indigo solu on is taken
of a known concentra on for dyeing 3.5% shade,
this solu on is a mix of liquid indigo, dispersant,
ecofriendly reducing aid and a catalyst. This solu on
is made in an inert atmosphere of 99.9% nitrogen at a
predetermined pressure.
2.3.2: Prepara on of the fabric dyeing assembly –
Horizontal padding assembly modified as per the Ultra
rapid dyeing principle is used. This assembly ensures
contact me of the dye liquor with the fabric in milli
seconds with a dye liquor capacity of 1.8 liters only.
This assembly or the modified nip trough is equipped
with an inert atmosphere of nitrogen. Here the desired
temperature, level and ultrasonic ac vity is maintained
throughout the dyeing process.
2.3.3: The prepared dyeing solu on is dosed in the
indigenously designed dyeing apparatus at a specified
me, temperature, pressure and ultrasonic ac vity
making the leuco dye highly substan ve. The fabric is
traversed through the guides, expander rolls, crease
remover rolls and selvedge guide into the nip trough
encapsula on over the horizontal padding mangle. The
fabric is dyed at the speed of 30 mpm. Thus facilita ng
the super substan ve leuco indigo to instantaneously
penetrate with a decreasing gradient in the core of the
fabric. Followed by superficial extrac on by squeezing
at 3 bar pressure, drying and batching. In this CLP (i.e.
Closed Loop Porcess) color pick up was 1 liters per kg
of fabric is achieved which is eventually evaporated
in the process. Thus there is as such no genera on of
any trade effluent during the ultra-rapid indigo dyeing
[PG]
process. Here the dyed fabric can be dried using
both electric hea ng chambers or gas fired chambers
thus ensuring near zero emissions. This can be further
extended to carbon neutral system by using solar and
wind energy.
2.3.4: This indigo dyed fabric is further neutralized
and dye-fixed over the stenter for retaining the darker
shade depth. If washdown shades are desired then the
fabric can be washed in an con nuous soaper followed
by dyefixing on stenter.
2.3.5: This dyed fabric is further finished for the
desirable shrinkage and so ness.
2.3.6: Using the dyed fabric leg mocks and garments
were manufacture for wash down analysis shown in
pictures 1 2.
Picture 1. Dyed Linen fabric leg mock
Picture 2. Washed Linen leg mocks

OCTOBER 2023
2.4: Evalua on of Dyed Material
2.4.1: Colour measurement - Colour strength of the
dyed fabrics was es mated from the reflectance
measurements using spectrophotometer at standard
illuminate D65 (LAV/Spec. Incl., d/8, D65/10°). The
colour was evaluated by CIELAB colour values (L*a*b*)
and colour strength (K/S) was calculated using the
Kubelka–Munk equa on:
K/S = (1-R2
)/R
WhereRisthereflectanceofthefibreatthewavelength
of maximum absorp on (630 nm).
2.4.2: Determina on perspira on fastness using
Standard tes ng method AATCC15.
2.4.3: Determina on of washing fastness using
Standard tes ng method AATCC 61 2A.
2.4.4: Determina on of rubbing fastness using
Standard tes ng method AATCC8.
2.4.5: Microscopic analysis between dyed and wash
samples.
3. Results and Discussion
The plo ng on the Chart 1 shows the K/s values vs. the
wavelength here the graph profile is similar for all the
samples.
Chart 1. K/S vs wave length
The color values and color strength results obtained
are presented in Chart 2. Overall figures of L*, a*, b*,
C* and h values are consistent with minimal varia ons.
K/s (630nm) values of all the samples are comparable
with the standard 9347T and show less varia ons. The
appearance strength is comparable with the standard.
The dE* figures shows that the varia ons are well
below the tolerable range.
Chart 2. Color values and strength of indigo dyed linen fabric samples.
Name
Light
source / angle
L* a* b* C* h
K/S
(630nm)
Appearance
Strength
dE*ab
9347 T D65/10° 28.76 -0.20 -16.55 16.55 269.32 13.72 0
9348 D65/10° 28.44 -0.50 -16.09 16.10 268.21 13.99 102.% 0.64
93472 D65/10° 28.89 -0.80 -16.00 16.02 267.15 13.51 99.% 0.82
93461 D65/10° 28.65 -0.66 -15.89 15.91 267.62 13.72 101.% 0.81
9345 D65/10° 28.89 -0.68 -16.24 16.26 267.62 13.68 100.% 0.58
9344 D65/10° 28.58 -0.34 -15.92 15.93 268.79 13.39 101.% 0.67
93481 D65/10° 28.58 -0.34 -15.92 15.92 268.78 13.39 101.% 0.67
9350 D65/10° 28.39 -0.73 -15.92 15.93 267.38 14.12 103.% 0.9
93501 D65/10° 28.90 -0.68 -16.23 16.24 267.60 13.64 100.% 0.59
9351 D65/10° 28.66 -0.42 -16.27 16.27 268.52 13.59 101.% 0.37
93511 D65/10° 28.58 -0.60 -16.29 16.30 267.90 13.99 102.% 0.51
9353 D65/10° 28.88 -0.63 -16.18 16.19 267.76 13.64 100.% 0.58
93531 D65/10° 28.80 -0.38 -16.22 16.22 268.66 13.34 99.% 0.38

OCTOBER 2023
Technical Article
The fastness proper es for the dyed samples are
presented in Chart 3. When comparing the fastness
proper es of water fastness and perspira on fastness
are good. The rub fastness values are somewhat
manageable considering the solid indigo dyed fabric.
The wash fastness to color change and staining are
below the mark and thus requires to be strengthened
in the further processing of these indigo dyed fabrics.
Chart 3. Color fastness of indigo dyed linen fabric samples.
Sam-
ple
Water
Fastness
Washing fastness
Wet
Rubbing
Dry
Rub-
bing
Perspira on
Fastness
Colour
Change
Staining
CA CO PA PES PAN WO Acid Alkali
9347 T 4 2 2 2 2 2.5 3 2.5 2 3 4 4
9348 4 2 2 3 2 3 3.5 2.5 1.5 3 4 5
93461 4 2.5 3 3 2 2.5 3 3 2 3 4 4
9345 4 2 2 2.5 3 3 3 2.5 2 4 4.5 4
9344 4.5 2.5 2.5 3 3 3 3 2 2 3 4 4
9350 4 2 3 3 2 3 3 2 1.5 3 4 4.5
9351 4.5 2 2 2 2 2.5 4 2.5 2 3 5 4
9353 4.5 2.5 3 3 2.5 2.5 3 2.5 2 3 4 4.5
93531 4 2.5 2.5 3 2 3 3 3 1.5 3 4 4
From the picture 2 represen ng the washed samples
we can see the signatory puckering effect in the seams
which is largely associated with the indigo fading effect.
Observa ons about the microscopic analysis of
indigo-dyed fabric picture 3 and its washing in picture
4, behavior is largely accurate and aligns with the
well-known phenomenon of “ring dyeing” associated
with tradi onal indigo dyeing process.
In tradi onal indigo dyeing, the dye molecules do
not penetrate deep into the fiber but instead adhere
to the outer layers of the fabric. This is due to the
nature of indigo dye. The “ring dyeing effect” is a term
used to describe the uneven distribu on of indigo
dye on the fabric surface. It creates a characteris c
appearance where the outermost layers of fibers,
those most exposed to the dye bath, take on a darker
color compared to the inner layers. This effect is visible
under a microscope, where the concentra on of dye
on the fabric’s surface can be observed.
A erwashing,theindigodye’slackofdeeppenetra on
becomes apparent as the surface dye begins to fade or
wear off. This fading a hallmark of indigo-dyed tex les
and contributes to the unique and desirable pa na
associated with indigo-dyed denim. It’s an excellent
illustra on of how the structure of the dye molecules
and their interac on with the tex le fibers result in
the dis nct appearance and behavior of indigo-dyed
tex les.
Picture 3. Indigo Dyed Linen fabric microscopic view
Picture 4. Washed Indigo dyed linen fabric microscopic
view

OCTOBER 2023
4. Conclusion
The Ultra Rapid Dyeing Technology [PG]
represents an
innova ve approach that combines various emerging
technologies to achieve efficient dye applica on using
the pad dry bake method. This process u lizes thermo
sonic energy to significantly enhance dye substan vity,
crea ng a conducive environment for dye molecules
to penetrate fabric fibres. Mechanical padding is then
employed to ensure rapid dye fixa on on the fabric
within an inert atmosphere. This method consistently
delivers results for both short and long produc on
runs. Further microscopic analysis reveal the presence
of surface-dyed indigo and that washing leads to
the fading of this surface dye is consistent with the
behavior of indigo-dyed fabrics and the ring dyeing
phenomenon.
The applica on of this technology has enabled the
successful dyeing of fabric in indigo color, revolu-
onizing the tradi onal indigo dyeing process. This
advancement promotes sustainability by reducing
water consump on, energy usage, and the need for
harmful chemicals. A typical indigo yarn dyeing process
consumes around 150 litres of water per kilogram
of fabric [17], while the Ultra Rapid Indigo Dyeing
technology achieves this with just 1.0 litre of water
per kilogram of fabric. This remarkable reduc on in
water usage represents approximately 1% of the water
required by conven onal methods.
One of the significant advantages of this technology is
its minimal capacity of standing dye liquor, resul ng in
negligibleeffluentgenera on.Thisnotonlycontributes
to environmental conserva on but also leads to cost
savings in machinery, wastewater treatment, energy,
and raw materials and chemicals used in the dyeing
process. Consequently, this technology reduces the
overall investment required.
The applica on of indigo dye in fabric dyeing has
expanded the possibili es across various fabric types,
including different construc ons, weaves, GSM (grams
per square meter), fiber blends, yarn blends, and even
yarn-dyed fabrics. This departure from the no on that
indigo is solely for yarn dyeing has paved the way for
versa le and crea ve applica ons.
With an increasing focus on environmental awareness,
sustainability, and ethical sourcing, contemporary
customers are more conscious of the environmental
impact of their choices. Retailers are responding
by seeking sustainable produc on methods. The
eco-friendly nature of the ultra-rapid indigo dyeing
processalignswellwiththistrend,makingitapromising
concept for fostering a sustainable dyeing business.
References
[1] W. Schramm and J. Jantschgi, “Compara ve assessment of tex le dyeing
technologies from a preven ve environmental protec on point of view,”
Colora on Technology, vol. 115, no. 4, pp. 130-135, 1999.
[2] E. Commission, “Reference Document on Best Available Techniques for the
Tex les Industry,” European Integrated Pollu on Preven on and Control
Bureau, Ins tute for Prospec ve Technological Studies, Spain, vol. BREF TXT
07, 2003.
[3] D. Phillips, “Environmentally friendly produc ve and reliable: priori es
for co on dyes and dyeing processes,” Journal of the Society of Dyers and
Colourists, vol.112, no. 7-8, pp. 183-186, 1996.
[4] h ps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sustainability.
[5] E. Oner, I. Baser, and K. Acar, “Use of ultrasonic energy in reac ve dyeing of
cellulosic fabrics,” Journal of the Society of Dyers Colourists, vol. 111, no. 9,
pp.279-281, 1995.
[6] Z. Khatri, M. H. Memon, A. Khatri, and A. Tanwari, “Cold Pad-Batch dyeing
method for co on fabric dyeing with reac ve dyes using ultrasonic energy,”
Ultrasonics Sonochemistry, vol. 18, no. 6, pp. 1301-1307, 2011.
[7] K. A. Thakore, “Ultrasound treatment in exhaust and pad-batch dyeing,”
AATCC Review, vol. 11, no. 4, pp. 66-74, 2011.
[8] Egyp an Pharmaceu cal Journal, Vol. 16 No. 3, September-December 2017.
[9] Dyes and Pigments 134 (2016) 442-447.
[10] M. Božič and V. Kokol, “Ecological alterna ves to the reduc on and oxida on
processes in dyeing with vat and sulphur dyes,” Dyes and Pigments, vol. 76,
no. 2, pp. 299-309, 2008.
[11] N. Lei, D. Gong, X. Ling, and Y. Shi, “Researches on microwave dyeing co on
fabrics,” vol. 627, pp. 343-347, 2013.
[12] M. R. Badrossamay and S. H. Amirshahi, “Effect of microwave hea ng on
dyeing of co on fabrics,” pp. 414-416, 2001.
[13] A. Schmidt, E. Bach, and E. Schollmeyer, “The dyeing of natural fibres with
reac ve disperse dyes in supercri cal carbon dioxide,” Dyes and Pigments,
vol. 56, no. 1, pp. 27-35, 2003.
[14] M. V. Fernandez Cid, J. van Spronsen, M. van der Kraan, W. J. T. Veugelers,
G. F. Woerlee, and G. J. Witkamp, “A significant approach to dye co on in
supercri cal carbon dioxide with fluorotriazine reac ve dyes,” The Journal of
Supercri cal Fluids, vol. 40, no. 3, pp. 477-484, 2007.
[15] V. A. Shenai, Chemistry of Dyes and Principles of Dyeing, Third. Mumbai:
Sevak Publica ons, 1997.
[16] E. Csanák, “Denim Fi ng Finishing : Challenges on High-Quality,”
in Interna onal Joint Conference on Environmental and Light Industry
Technologies, 2015, no. November, p. 10.
[17] B. Jiby., “The Indian Denim Industry In a Market Driven Environment,” Int. J.
Adv. Res., vol. 5, no. 6, pp. 2088–2095, Jun. 2017.
[18] S. Meraj, A. Qayoom, and A. S. N., “Effec ve Process Op miza on of Indigo
Rope Dyeing : A Case Study,” J. New Technol. Mater., vol. 6, no. 2, pp. 33–37,
2016.

OCTOBER 2023
Cover Story

OCTOBER 2023
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2023

OCTOBER 2023
Sustainable Fiber
Birla Cellulose, the pioneering pulp and fibre
business of the Aditya Birla Group, has once again
redefined the world of sustainable fashion by
introducing its latest crea on–Birla EcoSo . This
revolu onary variant, bamboo viscose fibre, is set to
transform how we perceive fashion, blending style
seamlessly with environmental consciousness.
The story behind Birla EcoSo is one of dedica on to
quality, sustainability, and the pursuit of perfec on.
With a deep-rooted respect for the environment and
a vision for a more sustainable future, Birla Cellulose
embarked on a journey to harness the untapped
poten alofbamboointhe
world of tex les. Result?
The crea on of Birla
EcoSo , an innova ve
bamboo rayon fabric,
epitomizes the seamless
fusionofnature’swonders
and human ingenuity.
Derived from lush,
sustainably managed
bamboo forests and
for fied with FSC
cer fica on, Birla EcoSo
blends responsibility with innova on, preserving
nature’s rhythm while cra ing a fabric that caters to
modern-day demands.
One of the defining features of Birla EcoSo is its
excep onal breathability and moisture management,
which will undoubtedly redefine comfort in the fashion
world. The resul ng fabric boasts unparalleled comfort
and a velvety drape, ensuring that every piece created
with Birla EcoSo resonates with luxury and elegance.
And that’s not even the best part! What dis nguishes
Birla EcoSo from other fabrics is the molecular tracer
technology. Each Birla EcoSo crea on comes with
a molecular tracer transac on cer ficate, assuring
consumers and trust they deserve. This intelligent
addi on enhances the fabric’s authen city and
reflects the company’s unwavering commitment to
transparency.
Mr. ManMohan Singh, Chief Marke ng Officer at
Birla Cellulose, said, “It’s a proud moment for Birla
Cellulose to introduce a made-in-India bamboo variant
of viscose, Birla EcoSo . Birla Cellulose is commi ed
to providing our customers with the highest quality
bamboo variant viscose in India and worldwide.”
With its blend of luxury, comfort, and sustainability,
Bamboo viscose fabric is
more than just a fabric.
It’s an insight into the
poten al of responsible
fashion. By introducing
this bamboo viscose
fabric, Birla Cellulose
redefines what fashion
can be and charts a
path towards a more
harmonious coexistence
with our planet.
BirlaCellulose’sdedica on
to sustainable prac ces
extendsfarbeyondthecrea onofBirlaEcoSo .Withan
impressivetrackrecordofenvironmentalresponsibility,
Birla Cellulose operates 12 manufacturing sites that
employ closed-loop technologies, leveraging recycled
materials and enhanced resource conserva on.
Their fiber offerings, including Livaeco viscose,
Livaeco Modal, Excel™ (lyocell), and Spunshades™
Eco-Enhanced, showcase their dedica on to delivering
performance and sustainability.
This commitment to sustainability has earned Birla
Cellulose recogni on, topping the Hot Bu on Ranking
andreceivingthepres gious‘darkgreenshirt’accolade
from the Canopy Planet Society.
Empowering Style With Sustainability:
Birla Cellulose Expands Portfolio With
Innovative Bamboo Rayon Fabric

OCTOBER 2023
Cover Story

OCTOBER 2023
he company aims to diversify its product
oﬀerings further into the weaving and garment
sectors. They boast world-class equipment from
Uster Technologies including a high-volume
instrument tes ng machine for raw co on and state-
of-the-art machinery for quality checks on co on
yarns.
In an industry characterized by both organized and
unorganized players, they value buyers who operate
in a streamlined and organized manner. From deal
nego a ons to execu on and post-sales processes
like transporta on, they seek buyers who priori ze
a structured approach. Digitaliza on is another key
criterion, as it’s considered essen al for staying
compe ve in today’s business landscape.
Amid these challenges, Shivkrupa Cotspin found a
reliable partner in The Yarn Bazaar.
In a conversa on, Aditya Agarwal shared their
The Yarn Bazaar’s Role in Shivkrupa
Cotspin’s Market Expansion
In the world of tex le manufacturing, where
quality and reliability are paramount, Shivkrupa
Cotspin has emerged as a noteworthy player. This
family-owned business, deeply rooted in the co on
ginning and pressing industry for over 25 years,
has recently made signiﬁcant strides in co on
yarn manufacturing. Their journey is marked by a
commitment to excellence and a forward-looking
approach.
T
Interview

OCTOBER 2023
Interview
successful collabora on journey with The Yarn Bazaar.
Ini ally focused on the Malegaon market, Shivkrupa
Cotspin aimed to expand into Ichalkaranji, and TYB
played a crucial role in this expansion. TYB introduced
Shivkrupa Cotspin’s combed weaving counts to the
Ichalkaranji market, a significant milestone. However,
some poten al buyers hesitated due to unfamiliarity
with the yarn quality. TYB stepped in, helping in the yarn
sales with 100% advance payment and building trust
in the product’s quality. They also assisted in logis cs
management, a cri cal but o en overlooked aspect.
“What truly sets TYB apart is their unwavering
commitment to their partners. Unlike many traders
who tend to disengage a er nego a ons, TYB
remained ac vely engaged throughout the en re
process, from start to finish. They provided con nuous
updates on each development, extending their support
beyond the deal-making stage, and ensuring seamless
progression un l the payment and delivery were
completed” quoted Mr. Aditya Agarwal.
For Shivkrupa Cotspin, this partnership with TYB
transcended a typical business transac on; it became
a source of trust, reliability, and peace of mind
throughout their journey.
Interview
Tell us about your journey with Shivkrupa Cotspin?
We have had a family business we are in cotton
ginning and pressing for the last 25 years so just
immediately after completing my education in Pune
I came back and joined my family business of jining
and pressing. looking good and extensive experience
incottonginningandspinningwearenowintocotton
yarn. So in 2017, we incorporated our company, and
in 2019 we started with the commercial operations.
Since July 2019 we have been manufacturing
cotton yarn, the unit is 14892, and we have already
completed four years of operations. in these 4 years,
we could see all the phases in our business. like in
the COVID period, post covid. being a beginner in the
industry was somewhat challenging. We enjoyed it
and now we are planning for the expansion of the
21888 spindle. so that expansion is already going
on the machinery process so we are expecting our
production by December this year for the new unit.
Other than the expansion what are the things you’re
looking forward to for the next year?
Initially, we had our vision from farm to fiber. We
were in cotton ginning and pressing Rather we are
very close to farmers. After having the vision of a
farm to fibre we look forward to fibre-to-Fashion.
it’s too early like we are in spinning only but after
this expansion, we are planning for some more of
the forward integrations going in the weaving and
garmenting sector.
What are the criteria you have while choosing a yarn
buyer for your business?
If we see there are many unorganized players in the
industry but our business is under very unorganized
things so if we get some buyer or some purchaser
who is working in a very channelized method or
completely organized way it will help a lot. it starts
from the deals to the execution phase. it may be
the transportation, contract, or some issues which
come after sales. thankfully we have not faced any
customercomplaintstodatebutifmyyarnpurchaser
likes having all the things streamlined or proper
methodology is fixed. and if everything is getting
worked in a properly organized manner. It helps
a lot. One most important things is Digitalisation.
There should be complete digitalization. It’s the
need of the hour. Most businesses are adopting it
but still, some things are not under data analyzation
thing and those should come in.
What are the biggest pain points and challenges you
face while finding these suppliers?
we always believe in quality over quantity even if
I talk about our gaining business. though we can
manufacture more than 50000 bales per annum we
manufacture only 9000 to 10000 bales, not more
than that. it’s not because cotton is not available but
it is the case that quality cotton is available in little
quantity. we take quality very seriously and it is the
reason we keep very stringent quality checks and we
follow proper SOP for all the quality parameters.
Moreover, the issue we face is skilled manpower.
Many times even if we have instructed people to
do things in a particular manner they might miss
some things. They might miss some points. Then
the pain part comes in, because even if you’ve kept
everythingproperlyandyou’veinstructedeverything

OCTOBER 2023
properly if they are not meeting your needs then it
disturbs the thing. The important to do things in a
particular manner something there might be some
points everything properly everything
HowdidTheYarnBazaarmethosecriteria?Andatthat
me, what were the problems you were facing, and
did The Yarn Bazaar help you solve those problems?
Iwouldliketomakeabigcomment.Myyarnwasfirst
introduced in the Ichalkaranji market by The Yarn
Bazaar. I was already having a good market share. I
was aggressively working in the Malegaon market.
initially, when I started with the carded counts I was
only focusing on the Malegoan market. Though I
was looking for some good suppliers who could help
to cater in Ichalkaranji at that time The Yarn Bazaar
came in and Mr Vishal Darak who was in the initial
phaseofthecompany.sohehelpedmealotandwith
TYB we started our journey in Ichalkaranji market
for 30s combed weaving. So my combed weaving
count in the domestic market was first introduced
by TYB. In the Ichalkaranji market, some buyers
were not ready to buy on the advance payment
terms because they were not aware of the supreme
quality of yarns that we were manufacturing. so TYB
helped me there also. They purchased each slot from
the advance payment terms. also supported me in
arranging the vehicles. Many times buyers just book
the orders and at the time of lifting, they just put it
on suppliers to arrange and manage the logistics.
If the mill is unable to arrange for the logistics it
delays the lifting and as a result the payment also
gets delayed. But in this case, TYB helped a lot. They
also arranged the vehicle on time. Many traders in
the industry put effort only till the bargaining, but
till the execution of the order TYB supports us as a
Miller I feel relieved from that part.
Expansion
For quality things, as we all are aware, we see, that
the world’s best lab is from Uster Technologies,
Switzerland if we are targeting quality consumers
to sell quality products at a premium rate we have
we have installed the labs from Uster only. so
right now I am having the HVI1000 from Uster for
checking of raw material or cotton bales. And even
for cotton yarn, I have having latest UT6 machine
from Uster. so definitely it; ‘s helping us a lot in a
lot of processes. Moreover, if we see this HVI1000
for raw cotton, rather than for raw materials like
bales and UT6 for cotton yarn, one thing missing in
my mill was the machine that checks the material
during the process. we have machines each for raw
materials and finished goods. but there was nothing
that could check the quality flaws in the process. So
we have also ordered the Uster AFIS which will be
delivered next month. It will also strengthen our
quality supply part.
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OCTOBER 2023
Textile Education
Introduc on
Tex le is one of the most ancient engineering disciplines
[1]. It started alongside the first industrial revolu on
(1750–1840) which saw the inven on of the flying
shu le loom in 1747 and spinning jenny in 1770. The
first co on mill in India was established in 1832 in
Kolkata (Fort Gloster Estate). This was followed by
another one in Mumbai in 1854. The tex le educa on
in India was inherited from the Bri sh with the
objec ve to produce qualified manpower to oversee
the tex- le manufacturing processes. Therefore, the
tex le educa on was process-centric and to a great
extent devoid of elementsneeded to nurture crea vity
and innova on. In recent years, with the advent of
electronically controlled machines and incorpora on
of intelligent systems, the role of tex le engineers
has changed significantly. Emergence of new fibres,
novel characterisa on techniques and use of tex le
materials in non-apparel applica ons (filters, ropes,
geotex les, agro- tex les, bulletproof jackets, etc.)
have added further com- plexity to the problem of
tex le curriculum design. It is a taddisappoin ng that
Rejuvenating the Textile
Engineering Education in Indian
and South-Asian Universities
Abhijit Majumdar
Department of Tex le and Fibre Engineering, Indian Ins tute of Technology Delhi, New Delhi 110016, India
Abstract: Dinosaurs were massive and powerful. Yet the lack of adaptability led to their ex nc on. Evolu on
of engineering to a great extent started with tex les. However,tex le as an academic discipline is s ll nebulous.
There aremajor flaws in the structure of the curriculum and serious weakness in the pedagogical approaches.
Through this ar -cle, I argue that tex le educa on in South-Asian countries needs major transforma on in
terms of principles, content and delivery. With the dynamic environment, we need to make the curriculum
relevant and interes ng coupled with the crea on of teachers who can intellectually entertain thestudents. If
this course correc on, along with the augmen- ta on in pay structure and nature of job, does not happen, then
the tex le educa on may slowly move towards virtualex nc on.
Keywords Educa on · Fabric manufacturing · Tex le engineering · Yarn manufacturing · Fibre science · Tex le
chemical processing

OCTOBER 2023
tex le curriculum has not received enough a en on
from the Indian and South-Asian academia to makeit
contemporary. Old-fashioned curriculum and delivery
s llrule the roost. The objec ve of this ar cle is to
highlightthe deficiencies of tex le curriculum from two
perspec ves(intellectual value and employment value)
and propose some strategic pathways to overcome
thesedeficiencies.Thoughtsexpressed in this ar cle are
expected to be useful for the Indian and South-Asian
universi es as well for the statutorybodies entrusted
with technical educa on.
Evolu on of Tex le Educa on
Science-driven tex le educa on started in the UK
during the first industrial revolu on. The University
of Manchester was at the forefront and tex le was
one of its original depart-ments when the Mechanics
Ins tu on was created in 1824.The‘EngineeringDesign
Culture’ in tex les was introducedby Prof. John Hearle,
a physicist by training, who had a long career in the
University of Manchester. Table 1 shows someof the
landmark events that transformed the tex le industry
and educa on.
Table 1 Major landmarks of tex le engineering
innova on
Year Event
1914 First patent on air-jet weaving
1922 Rapier loom (Gabler loop transfer)
1926 Publica on of Peirce’s weak-link theory
1937 Publica on of Peirce’s geometry of cloth
structure
1941 Discovery of polyester (Terylene) fibre
1946 Publica on of van Wyk’s theory of
compression of fibrous materials
1955 Publica on of Leaf and Glaskin’s geometry
of a plain kni ed loop
1963 Inven on of Rotor spinning machine
1965 Discovery of Kevlar® fibre
1980s Air-jet spinning
1990s Air-jet weaving with profile reed and relay
nozzles
However, things started to change dras cally in the
1990s primarily due to economic reasons. When a
country shi s from an agriculture-based economy to
an industrial economy, it starts with the tex le and
clothing industry as it has a low entry barrier and
provides jobs to a huge number of unskilled and
semi-skilled workers. In the next step, the country
moves into steel and chemical industries whichrequire
more sophis cated technologies and skills than
tex- les. This industrial progression con nues with
gradua on to automobile and electronics industries
and finally to bio- tech and other high-tech industries.
During the 1990s, produc on of commodity tex le
and clothing shi ed to Asian countries largely due to
the low labour cost and abolishment of Mul -Fibre
Agreement. This resulted in gradual closure of tex le
industries in the western world including the USAand
UK. As a consequence, the tex le programmes of vari-
ous universi es in the USA and UK were either closed
or merged with either materials science or design as
shown in Table 2.
In the last few decades, the tex le industry worldwide
has gone through many transforma ons changing its
focus from low-cost and high-volume produc on (lean)
to value-added produc on (agile). The produc on of
high-volume commodity tex les is providing spaces
to value-added func- onal tex les and clothing.
Being the second most pollu ng industry, fulfilment
of circularity and sustainable development goals
(SDGs) have become extremely important for thetex le
and clothing industry. Therefore, green technologies
involving reduced water and energy consump on,
energy recovery, recycling, etc., have become crucial
for the compe veness of tex le industry. Some of
the manufacturing process-related skillsets which
were useful in the past have become redundant due to
the development of automated machines which have
eliminated the manual interven ons to a great extent.
On the other hand, tex le graduates are supposed to
possess some new skill sets to cope with the challenges
posed by new tex le manufacturing systems and
business models.
Tex le Educa on in India
It was soon followed by establishment of tex le
colleges at Serampore (Government Weaving Ins tute)
and Berhampore (Govern- ment Silk Weaving and
Dyeing Ins tute) in 1909 and 1927, respec vely. At
present, there are around 40 colleges and universi es
offering tex le degree programmes in India [2].Tex le
undergraduate (UG) degree programmes are offeredin

OCTOBER 2023
Textile Education
India under various names as given below.
o Tex le Technology
p Tex le Engineering/ Tex le Plant Engineering
q Tex le Cchemistry
r Manmade Fibre Technology
Table 2 Restructuring of tex le departments in various universi es
Old name New name Country
School of Tex le and Fibre Engineering,
Georgia Tech. University
School of Materials Science and Engineering USA
College of Tex les, Clemson University Department of Materials Science and Engineering USA
Department of Tex les, The University of
Manchester
Department of Materials UK
Department of Tex le Industries, University of
Leeds
Department of Design UK
Department of Tex les and Light Industries,
Budapest University
Department of Polymer Engineering Hungary
s Apparel Engineering/ Apparel Produc on
Managementt
t Fashion Technology
u Carpet and Tex le Technology
v Handloom and Tex le Technologyw
w Silk Technology
x Jute and Fibre Technology
Though the total sanc oned intake in the aforesaid
programmes is around 3000, over the past few
years, there isa dras c reduc on in students’ intake
in many tex le ins - tutes across India. Students are
op ng for computer science-related programmes and
core engineering programmes are languishing behind.
A problem o en faced by these tex le departments
is that the machines used in the laboratories are of
industrial scale, and therefore, they require huge
investment, space and running cost. Interes ngly, a
large propor- on of these tex le ins tutes are run by
the state or central governments. While most of the
engineering disciplineshave a meagre 5–6% seats in
government colleges, in con- trast,tex lehasahopping
share of 42%. The data imply thattex le engineering
educa on is not a lucra ve proposi on for the private
ins tutes. It also underlines that the input quality of
the students, especially in public funded ins tutes,may
not be as bad as it is perceived. For example, the closing
rank in the year 2021 for one such government college
in West Bengal was~9200 and~15,200 for Mechanical
Engi- neering and Tex le Technology, respec vely.
Considering that around 100 thousand students
appeared in the entranceexamina on, tex le a racted
students from top 15% percen- le, and therefore, they
cannot be considered as bad based on any yards ck
(Fig. 1). So, where does the problem lie?
Problems of Tex le Educa on
There is an inherent percep on in the tex le fraternity
thattex le educa on is fundamentally different from
other engineering disciplines. This may stem from
the fact some of the legacy tex le colleges in India
and other South-Asian countries were established
standalone and they were not part of mul disciplinary
engineering ins tutes. This might have precluded free
exchange of knowledge with other engi-neering fields
and learning from them. There is no other engineering
discipline which offers so many programmes at the
UG level like tex le does. Most of the engineering
disciplines offer a large number of specialisa ons
at the post-graduate (PG) level but s ll have only
one or two unified undergraduate programmes.
Electrical engineering andCivil engineering are the best
examples. IIT Delhi offers sixspecialisa ons at the PG
(M.Tech) level while offering onlytwo UG programmes
in Electrical Engineering and Electri- cal Engineering
Power and Automa on. IIT Delhi and IIT Roorkee offer
eight and six PG programmes, respec vely, with only
one UG programme in Civil Engineering. UG edu-ca on
in engineering should focus on the basics and fun-
damentals of the domain without being too specific
about par cular products, processes or industries.
Therefore, it is important to look at the tex le

OCTOBER 2023
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OCTOBER 2023
curriculum again and elicit the common thread among
the various UG programmes which apparently looks
divergent [3]. Any manufacturing- related engineering
programme should have the following focus areas:
o Materials
p Structural mechanics and designq
q Manufacturing processes
In tex le curriculum, the aforesaid focus areas can
beaddressed as follows:
o Materials: Fibre and polymer science;
Nanomaterials
p Structural mechanics and design: Fibre, yarn and
fabricstructure; clothing design; pa ern making,
2D to 3D conversion
q Manufacturing processes: Dry (yarn, fabric,
garment) and wet (dyeing, prin ng, finishing,
coa ng, lamina on)processes
r Tes ng and standardisa on
Fig. 1 Percentage of engineer-ing seats in government
ins tu- ons in India
Some of us believe that it could be a good idea to
start a new UG programme in Technical Tex les as
the prospec ve students may be enthused by the
fascina ng use of tex les in medical, protec ve or
sports applica ons. However, I argue that technical
tex les need high-performance or func onal fibres
(Kevlar®, Nomex®, Dyneema ®, Spectra ® etc.), special
structures and manufacturing processes (weaving,
nonwovens, braiding, warp kni ng, 3D weaving,
etc.). If these components are properly covered in the
basic tex le engineering UG programme, then a new
programme on technical tex les will have significant
overlap and minimum value addi on. Therefore,
another UG programme in technical tex les will create
micro-specialisa on limi ng the job opportunity
of these students in the tradi onal tex le industry.
Besides, the baseline survey 2020 conducted by the
Ministry of Tex les, Govt. of India, reveals that for
the fresh graduates only 5% placement is happening
in the technical tex le sector [4]. A large number of
technical tex le companies are actually converters of
roll goods, and thus, they will not be able to employ
trained engineers in bulk.
A ributes of a Tex le Engineer
As the industry has leapfrogged technologically in last
few decades, the job role of tex le engineers must
change. Otherwise, it will be difficult for the tex le
industry to recruit and retain qualified engineers
who have higher aspira ons. The job roles of tex le
engineers are listed below:
o Capability to select raw materials for a given
end-product
p Produc on planning and inventory management
q Process design and op misa on
r Process/produc on management
s Tes ng and quality control
t Designing of new products
u Managing sustainability and circularity
v Managing informa on systems
w Capability to take opera onal decisions
x Supply chain management
It should be noted that job role of tex le engineers
is not limited to process management, tes ng and
quality control which were considered to be the main
func ons in the past. Thus, the tex le curriculum
should be transformed accordingly so that the
professional need of the engineers is fulfilled.
How to Rejuvenate the Tex le Curriculum
I would like to propose a relook at the exis ng tex le
UG curriculum through the lens of Blue Ocean Strategy
pro- posed by Kim and Mauborgne [5]. Figure 2 shows
the four ac onstrategiestomakethetex lecurriculum
relevant andinteres ng. We need to add the important
and emerging concepts/skills while elimina ng the
redundant components(Table 3).
The graduate engineers should have some core compe-
tence which will set them apart from the skilled techni-
cians. Most of the manufacturing process-related
Textile Education

OCTOBER 2023
Textile Education
informa- on, which is o en taught in the garb of
knowledge, does not create any core competence.
Even a shop floor technician gets acquainted with
such informa on a er spending some months in
the industry. Therefore, tex le engineers must
acquire deeper understanding in certain science and
engineeringareaswhichcannotbemimickedbyothers.
Forexample, fluid mechanics is useful in many processes
including fibre spinning, blowroom, airjet spinning,
airjet weaving, waterjet weaving, etc. Opera ons
research, a subject based on applied mathema cs, can
strengthen op misa on capabili es of the engineers
who can then take ini a ves for material, cost and
me saving. At present, mundane process descrip on
of yarn and fabric manufacturing processes occupy a
major por on of these subjects.
What is the need toteach the values of twist mul plier,
spacer sizes, traveller no,ring diameter for various yarn
counts in yarn manufacturing? Is there any logic to
compel the students to remember the recipe of sizing
for different fibre blends or the tooth numbers in
gears of various take-up mo ons? A be er wayis to
provide the gearing diagram of such mechanisms and
ask the students to analyse the periodicity of various
faults as it requires some conceptual understanding of
transmissionof mo ons and its analysis. For the tex le
chemical processing, focus should primarily be on
the interac on between the fibre and dye molecules
or finishing agents. The roles of various chemical
agents (oxidising, retarding, dispersing, etc.) and the
associated mechanisms should be emphasisedrather
than the quan es ofthese agents that should beused.
Yarn and fabric manufacturing subjects should be
covered in two semesters (part I and part II) and it is
achievableif the unnecessary descrip on of processes
and focus onprocess parameters are done away with.
In weaving, auxil-iary mo ons of shu le looms do not
add value and studentsshould not be compelled to read
these mechanisms. Just theclassifica on of auxiliary
mo ons would suffice. Shu le-less weaving, kni ng,
nonwoven and braiding technologiesshould be taught
in part II of fabric manufacturing. How-ever, this is
a tricky ma er in the absence of good textbookswhich
goes beyond the process descrip on specially in case
of shu leless weaving.
Table3 Ac onplansforrejuvena ng tex lecurriculum
Ac on Areas
Create Solid and fluid mechanics; Theory
of machines; Opera ons research;
Fibre reinforced composites; Ar ficial
intelligence and machine learning;
Modelling and simula on; Sustainability
and circularity
Eliminate Descrip ons related to machineries
and equipment; Easily comprehensible
processes; Ginning; Scutcher and
Pianofeed mechanism; Auxiliary
mo ons in shu le weaving; Yarn and
fabric manufacturing (including kni ng
and nonwovens) should be covered in
twocourses each
Raise Basic engineering and scien fic
principles; Probability and sta s cs;
Polymer and high-performance fibre;
Advanced materials characterisa on;
Surface science, transmission and
absorp on of fluids; 3D visualisa on;
Func onal finishes; Technical tex les
Reduce Empiricism; Parameter centric learning;
Recipe (values) of chemical processing;
Parameters of spinning and weaving
The areas which are becoming more important
with the emergence of new technologies should
be augmented while reducing the monotonous and
descrip ve parts which require rote learning. As the
role of tex le materials is becoming more important
with me, understanding of polymers and fibres and
their structures is crucial. Tex le tes ng curricu-lum at
present only covers fibre, yarn and fabric tes ng. The

OCTOBER 2023
tes ng and characterisa on of synthe c fibres using
X-ray,FTIR, SEM, DSC, TGA, DMA, etc., must become an
integral part of the tex le tes ng syllabus.
One dilemma that the teachers would always face is the
balance between value and volume (credit/ lecture
hours). The value/volume ra o should be maximised as
new coursesare to be added considering the changing
needs of the industry. Therefore, redundant topics
which do not add value but occupy volume should
be eliminated. Defining value is alsonot easy and the
value crea on can happen either from the intellectual
side or from the employability side of students. We
need to keep contents which create inquisi veness
in the mind of the students by challenging them. For
example,topics like mechanical models of visco-elas c
behaviour of fibres, blending delay me in mixers,
fibre transfer model in card, models for dra ing
force in roller dra ing, design of shedding cams, sley
kinema cs, woven fabric geometry and response of
tex le structure to different types of forcesare some
of the topics which will not only create interest among
students but also help them to visualise the tex le
processes through mathema cal analysis. Industry
may not appreciate these topics in the short-term,
however, they willdefinitely benefit in the long-term
by employing competentengineers who are not mere
learners but cri cal thinkers. Some computa onal and
design pla orms such as MAT- LAB, Ansys, Solidworks,
and TexGen should be part of thecurriculum. Figure 3
depicts the path of transi on for tex- le educa on.
It should offer a convergent UG programme like
other engineering disciplines. Process focus should
be transformed into material focus and data-informa-
on centric learning should be replaced with princi-
ple-based learning.
Roles of Various Stakeholders
The roles of various stakeholders like teachers,
universi- es, industry and policy making bodies (All
Indian Councilfor Tex le Educa on or AICTE, Ministry
of Tex les, etc.) are going to be decisive to catalyse the
transi on of tex le educa on.
Teachers are the protagonist of any academic
ecosystem.Teachers should think about the drawbacks
of the exis ng tex le curriculum with an open mind
and challenge the equi-librium of ‘business as usual’.
They should shun the informa on-based pedagogy
that fosters ‘rote learning’. Without being obsessed
with the myth that tex le industry is very diverse, they
should take a cue from other core engineering A cer-
tain propor on of faculty members should have the
capability to teach subjects like sta s cs, data science,
opera ons research, management, modelling and
simula on, AI/ML and sustainability. In case of mul -
disciplinary engineering colleges, the faculty members
of other engineering departments can be mo vated
to teach subjects like Thermal Engi- neering or Fluid
Mechanics to tex le students. Such faculty members
can be rewarded with ‘joint faculty’ posi ons.
Tex le and allied industry must value the qualified
human resources by giving them a sense of dignity and
respect.
As men oned earlier, the job profile of the tex le
engineers should be upli ed from the mere labour
handling and produc on record keeping to something
that is intellectually challenging, i.e. research and
development, product or process design, problem
solving, decision making, energy saving, waste
minimisa on, supply chain op misa on, etc. Unless
the working atmosphere in the tex le industry
improves along with the compensa on offered to the
bud- ding engineers, the migra on of human resources
meant for tex le industry towards the much lucra ve
service sectors will con nue.
Fig. 3 Path of transi on for tex le engineering
curriculum
Policy making bodies like Ministry of Educa on, Minis-
try of Tex les and AICTE should take ini a ves to bring
the industry and academia on the same pla orm.
Developmentofamodelcurriculumanditscountrywide

implementa on is the need of the hour. The tex le
curriculum available on the AICTE website needs
major upgrada on. AICTE should also take ini a ves
for the unifica on of tex le UG programmes. It is
heartening to see that Ministry of Tex les haslaunched
Na onal Technical Tex les Mission (NTTM) that can
play a significant role in upgrading the tex le educa on
ecosystem.Thoughthemissionisprimarilyfortechnical
tex les, it should be kept in mind that the legacy tex le
ins tutes are the lifeline of technical manpower supply
chainin India. Therefore, upgrada on of infrastructure
of these tex le ins tutes is of paramount importance
for the growth of Indian tex le industry in general
and technical tex les industry in par cular. Funds for
faculty training and development through quality
improvement programmes (QIP), faculty development
programmes (FDP), summer and winterschools should
be provided to keep the teachers abreast withthe latest
developments in science and technology.
Conclusions
The aim of this ar cle is to ini ate a debate about the
impending need of curriculum revamp in Indian and
South- Asian universi es offering tex le engineering
programme. There should be only one unified UG
programme without specific focus on a par cular type
of tex le industry or pro-cess. While industry inputs
are crucial, the teachers and academicians have to
play a pivotal role in this process of transforma on.
We need to ensure that tex le programmes do away
with data-informa on centric delivery and embracethe
principle-centric teaching–learning process. Process
focus should be reduced and material/structure focus
should be augmented to produce new-genera on
tex le engineers who can lead the industry towards
growth and prosper-ity through innova on. Teachers,
academia, industry and government bodies must work
in unison to ini ate the radi- cal changes needed to
rejuvenate the tex le engineering educa on.
Acknowledgements The author is thankful to Prof. R.
Cha opad- hyay, Prof. Arunangshu Mukhopadhyay,
Prof. Amit Rawal, Prof. B.
S. Butola, Prof. Samrat Mukhopadhyay, and Prof.
Anindya Ghosh fortheir valuable inputs.
Funding The author declare that no funding was
received for the work reported in this ar cle.
Declara ons
Conflict of interests The author declare that there is
no conflict of interest.
Ethical Approval The authors confirm that the research
meets ethical guidelines and adheres to the legal
requirements of the study country.
References
M. D. Araujo, The incorporation of textile education in the global
European education system, in 37th International Symposium on
novelties in Textiles, June 15–17, 2006, Ljubljana, Slovenia
V. K. Kothari, R D needs of Indian textile industry, in Report
prepared by Indian Inﬆitute of Technology Delhi under Technol-ogy
Information Forecaﬆing and Assessment Council, November2009
P. K. Banerjee, Recommendations of the Advisory group on Tex-tile
education, in Technology Information Forecaﬆing and Assess-ment
Council (TIFAC) Meeting, June 13, 2008, New Delhi
Technical textiles Industry in India: Challenges and Opportunities,
Baseline study 2020, Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India,

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OCTOBER 2023

OCTOBER 2023
Event Update
In addi on to these esteemed guests, the
summit saw the ac ve par cipa on of
industry professionals, fashion designers,
brand experts, manufacturers, and local
ar sans, all of whom came together to
exchange unique ideas, experiences, and
invaluable sugges ons.
HEWA (Home Tex le Exporter’s Welfare
Associa on) with the support of the
Ministry of MSME, Government of India
Organized the Interna onal Home Tex le
Summit at the pres gious HHI Hotel,
Varanasi on 23rd September 2023. Bharat 24 news
channel was the media partner and Tex le Value Chain
was the knowledge partner for this Summit.
The summit showcased
India’srichculturaltapestry
and diversity, earning
praise from interna onal
buyers. Beyond cultural
apprecia on, this
summit served as a
pla orm for Indian tex le
manufacturers and
local ar sans to explore
interna onal business opportuni es and directly
engage with overseas buyers. The summit commenced
on a high note with an inspiring speech by HEWA
President Anant Srivastava, who eloquently highlighted
India’s unique cultural diversity and democra c values.
Further informing that Interna onal Home Tex le
Summit will follow with a brainstorming session
in which Industry Stakeholder, Policy makers and
Interna onal Buyers will interact together on single
pla orm to discuss various challenges and market
opportuni es to promote ‘Made in India home tex le
products in foreign market to achieve the ambi ous
goal of Hon’ble Chief Minister Shri Yogi Aditya Nath Ji
of $ 1 trillion economy in a set meframe of ﬁve years
and further it will contribute to accomplished the goal
of our Hon’ble Prime Minister Shri Narendra Modi Ji
of $ 5 illion
He also expressed gra tude to the Prime Minister for
the successful conclusion of the recent G20 summit.
The Summit was inaugurated by Chief Guest Hon’ble
Cabinet Minister Shri Anil Rajbhar Government of
U ar Pradesh and Hon’ble Minister of State Dr. Daya
Hewa host First International Home
Textile Summit (IHTS) in Varanasi Sparks
Global Collaboration and Innovation
Varanasi, the Prime Minister’s esteemed
parliamentary cons tuency, recently
hosted the Interna onal Home Tex le
Summit (IHTS). The Summit witnessed
the convergence of interna onal buyers
hailing from Libya, Russia, Iran, Yemen,
Canada, and various other na ons. +(:$
/(76+(/3($+27+(5

Textile value Chain- Oct 2023

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