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TE TILEX
VALUE CHAIN
June 2017 Volume 5 Issue 6
Registered with Registrar of Newspapers under | RNI NO: MAHENG/2012/43707
Postal Registration No. MNE/346/2015-17 published on 5th of every month,
TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN posted at Mumbai
Patrika Channel Sorting Office,Pantnagar- 75, posting date 29/30 of month | Pages 56
Innovation in Textile Business
8 GST Views from different Market
8 Interview : Universal Robot & Resil Chemical
8 One belt- One Road : China’s Initiative
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2 June 2017
3
www.textilevaluechain.comJune 2017
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4 June 2017
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www.textilevaluechain.comJune 2017
www.textilevaluechain.com
6 June 2017
EDITORIAL
Ms. Jigna Shah
Editor & Publisher
All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of
any of the content from this issue is prohibited
without explicit written permission of the
publisher. Every effort has been made to ensure
and present factual and accurate information.
The views expressed in the articles published in
this magazine are that of the respective authors
and not necessarily that of the publisher. Textile
Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely
errors that might occur or any steps taken
based in the information provided herewith.
Registered Office
Innovative Media and Information Co.
189/5263, Sanmati, Pantnagar,
Ghatkopar (East), Mumbai 400075.
Maharashtra, INDIA.
Tel : +91-22-21026386
Cell: +91-9769442239
Email: info@textilevaluechain.com
tvcmedia2012@gmail.com
Web: www.textilevaluechain.com
Owner, Publisher, Printer &
Editor
Ms. Jigna Shah
Printed & Processed by her at,
Impression Graphics,
Gala no.13, Shivai Industrial Estate,
Andheri Kurla Road,
Sakinaka, Andheri (East),
Mumbai 400072,
Maharashtra, India.
Any change is always revolted by people across the world, whether its new monetary system
or new political party or new idea..!!! Change is the challenging the herd mindset of the peo-
ple. Right now, Entire India buzzing around the new One Nation, One Tax system ie GST (Good
& Service Tax).
Textile being a minimum entry barrier industry & heritage based, majority of industry is domi-
nated by MSME with fragmented cluster. New tax structure which has been implemented re-
cently is good for organised sector that pays & receive commercial transaction by organised way
ie by bank or organised channel. But majority of our Textile Sector do not follow organised chan-
nel for commercial transaction without having any official books in income tax or any business
tax. India being a part of global village, India Incorporation revenue structure should be at par
with the global standard. So ruling government of India , decided to have new revenue system
in which from grass root level to top level all included in the part of revenue of India. But, Non
contributor or minimal contributor and unorganised sector are opposing new Revenue / Tax
system of India.
Now, being a part of Indian system, whether we like it or not, we need to pay revenue as per new
ruling government. Ruling and past government given many benefits/ rebates to this industry to
be self sufficient, but as industry still we are not mature enough to understand the importance
given by government.” Textiles India 2017” trade exhibition, new initiative taken by Ministry of
Textiles and GOI, tried to incorporate entire value chain contributors, from Cotton growers to
Organised Retail / Fashion Designers, all are under one roof and I think they are partially suc-
ceeded.
In a global economy, we are not only contributor to Indian economy but also part of human com-
munity. Every new change only happens for good. Let’s Welcome and enjoy new tax / revenue
system with our open mindset.
Wish you all productive business in new Tax System..!!!
Welcoming New Revenue
System of India Incorporation...!!!
7
www.textilevaluechain.comJune 2017
Textile Agent
317, Cosmos Platinum, 3rd Floor, Gokhale Road (south), Dadar (west),Mumbai – 400028.
Ph:- 24301555/24361555/24371555
Email : - rmking555@gmail.com
Parekh Agencies
Parekh Associates
Garment Agent
40,Bhangwadi Shopping Arcade, 1st Floor, Kalbadevi Road,Mumbai - 400 002, Maharashtra, INDIA
Tel : +91-22-2201 1111 / 2205 5555 / 2207 3555
Email : txking555@gmail.com
Mr. Shailesh Parekh - M: 9820055506
Mr. Ritesh Shah - M: 9320055506 / 9820629406
Mr. Arpit Jain - M: 9324488888
Mr. Ketan Dattani - M: 9820186888
Mr. Ashish Niwate - M: 9820456445
Mr. Rajan Parekh - M: 9930955506
www.textilevaluechain.com
8 June 2017
OM
13–15September2017
MUST VISIT FOR
techtextil-india.co.in
To register for a visit contact:
Sonam Kanal +91 22 6144 5913
sonam.kanal@india.messefrankfurt.com
Nikita Pires +91 22 6144 5947
nikita.pires@india.messefrankfurt.com
International Trade Fair for
Technical Textiles and Nonwovens
September
techtextil-india.co.in
September
techtextil-india.co.in
REGISTER
TO VISIT
Register
Online!
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www.textilevaluechain.comJune 2017
"Our customers benefit
from our sustainable
e-save solutions for the
production of manmade
fibers within growth
markets like textile and
apparel, infrastructure,
transportation, food,
energy and electronics. “
Georg Stausberg,
CEO Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Segment
From Melt to Yarn,
Fibers and Nonwovens
It all starts with a few chemicals. Transforming these into smart clothing, technical textiles
or tire cord requires great ideas, outstanding equipment and sophisticated processes.
Oerlikon Manmade Fibers engineers support you in ensuring that your entire project
is a total success. We will accompany you on your journey from chemical product to
manmade fibers. From engineering and polycondensation to spinning, texturing and
nonwoven production.
From Melt to Yarn, Fibers and Nonwovens.
For further information visit us at
www.oerlikon.com/manmade-fibers
Follow us on Facebook!
www.facebook.com/OerlikonBarmag
www.facebook.com/OerlikonNeumag
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www.textilevaluechain.com
12 June 2017
FABRIC | FASHION | APPAREL | ACCESSORIES
MACHINERIES | HOME & MORE!
UAE'S EXCLUSIVE SOURCING FAIR
TEXTILE EXPORTS
UAE
1
2
3
4
LEADING BUYING HOUSES
UPCOMING TRENDS
WHYIATF?
Meet numerous skilled and high profile industry
experts from the fashion industry in the region.
UAE ranks as the 3rd largest country in terms of
textile exports and is among the largest sector of
the Middle East.
Network and participate with leading buying
houses all under one roof.
IATF is also an annual forum wherein speakers
from all around the world highlight upcoming
trends through workshops, panel discussions
and seminars.
MEET INDUSTRY EXPERTS
11
www.textilevaluechain.comJune 2017
www.textilevaluechain.com
10 June 2017
Spinning Weaving Knitting Dyeing Printing Processing Embroidery Garment & More...
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December 201707 08 09 10
& ACCESSORIES EXHIBITION
TEXTILE MACHINERY
2nd INTERNATIONAL
Venue: The Exhibition Centre, Gandhinagar, Gujarat, India
Organisers Media Partners
GS A
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Arvind Semlani | +91 9833977743 | info@itmach.com
| +91 9426012207 | bhadresh@kdclglobal.comBhadresh Mistry
| +91 9867127598 | radhika@textileexcellence.comRadhika Boddu
| +91 9375322449 | allgujaratspinnersassociation@gmail.comBhavesh Thakar
Supporting Partners
13
www.textilevaluechain.comJune 2017
June 2017 ISSUE
CONTENT
Advertiser Index
Back Page: Raymond
Back Inside : Boalamo
Front Inside : Raysil
Page 3: Premier Fabric
Page 4: Varney Fabric
Page 5: SGS Innovation
Page 7: Parekh Agencies
Page 8: Techtexil India
Page 9: Oerlikon
Page 10: IATF
Page 11: RSWM
Page 12: ITMACH India
Page 15: Amith Garment
Page 24: Keny Fabrics
Page 26: Suzuki Suitings
Page 45: Tuff Plast
Page 46: Deep Textiles
Page 47: MBR Group
Page 48: Sanjay Plastic
Page 49: ITES
Page 50: SKBS
Page 51: Hari Fashions
Page 52: Garmek Panipat
Page 53: Texfair 2017
Page 54: SGS Silk Mills
14 & 44 NEWS
COVER STORY: Innovation in Textile Business
16- Disruptive Innovation – Approach for Today’s busi-
nesses by Mr. Rushin Vadhani
18- Hagfish Slime threads by DKTE Professors
20- Solid State Polymerization and Enhancing Crystal-
linity and molecular weight to improve tensile property
of polyester yarn by Mr. Digmber Chavan & Mr. P. V.
Kadole
22- Chanderi Weaving- An Exclusive art of India by pro-
fessors of SVVV, Indore
INTERVIEW
25- Mr. Pradeep David, GM of Universal Robots, India &
Sri Lanka
30- Mr. M.S. Vijayan, Joint MD of Resil Chemicals
GLOBAL FOCUS
27- One belt – One Road: China’s big initiative creating
massive business opportunities by Mr. Arvind Sinha
SHOW REPORT
33- Technotex India 2017
34- HGH India 2017
MARKET REPORT
35- Yarn Report
GST REVIEW
38- by Mr. Aleem Faizee, Malegaon
40- Surat Report
41- Views from Mumbai Wholesale Market
42- SHOW CALENDAR
EDITORIAL TEAM
Editor & Publisher
Ms. Jigna Shah
Consulting Editor
Mr. Avinash Mayekar
Graphic Designer
Mr. Anant A. Jogale
Sales Manager
Mr. Md. Tanweer
Editorial Assistant
Mrs. Namsha T.
INDUSTRY
Mr. Devchand Chheda
City Editor - Vyapar ( Janmabhumi Group)
Mr. Manohar Samuel
President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries
Dr. M. K. Talukdar
VP, Kusumgar Corporates
Mr. Shailendra Pandey
VP (Head – Sales and Marketing), Indian Rayon
Mr. Ajay Sharma
GM RSWM (LNJ Bhilwara Group)
EDUCATION / RESEARCH
Mr. B.V. Doctor
HOD knitting, SASMIRA
Dr. Ela Dedhia
Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College
Dr. Mangesh D. Teli
Professor, Dean ICT
Dr. S.K. Chattopadhyay
Principal Scientist & Head MPD
Dr. Rajan Nachane
Retired Scientist, CIRCOT
Delhi Representative office :
Mr. Sudhir Verma
Knit Experts
242, Pocket 3,
Sector 23, Near Max Fort School,
Rohini, New Delhi- 110085
Email : knitexperts@rediffmail.com
Tel : +91-9818026572
S
R
ry
.
of
of
rs
www.textilevaluechain.com
14 June 2017
Ingersoll Rand launches Next Generation R-Series
Rotary Screw Air Compressors in India
I
ngersoll Rand®, a global leader
in compression technologies and
services, today introduced new-
models to itsline of Next Generation
R-Series oil-flooded rotary screw air
compressors,whichprovide a more
energy-efficient solution for custom-
ers with high capacity air require-
ments.The RS200 to RS250 models
rotary screw air compressor will re-
duce energy cost by approximately
10% for large manufacturing facilities.
TheRS200 to RS250 modelsareavail-
able withthe new, state-of-the-art
single-stage airend, or the two-stage
airendthat increases airflow by up
to 16 percent. The new fixed-speed
modelsare10 percent more efficient
compared tolegacy products, while
the variable speed option is up to 35
percent more efficient compared to
the industry average.
Commenting on the launch, Amar
Kaul, Chairman and Managing Direc-
tor, Ingersoll Rand India Limited said,
“Around the world, businesses turn to
Ingersoll Rand to redefine reliability
and efficiency. The next generation R-
series will help our customers do just
that by delivering world class efficien-
cy, increase uptime and deliver the
right solution for operational excel-
lence. The new series will enable our
customers in India to be more com-
petitive in the global environment
by boosting their productivity with a
state of the art airend that delivers
as much as 15% improved efficiency
and 16% greater airflow capacity. The
IE3 premium efficiency motor will
help deliver significant energy sav-
ings and the optional variable speed
drive (VSD) will further decrease ener-
gy demands. With the launch of next
generation R-Series, we continue to
push the edge of innovation to help
our customers achieve real business
results, including cost reductions and
lower total cost of ownership.”
“The ability for these compressors to
deliver outstanding efficiency with-
out compromising reliability meets
the increasing demands of industries
to increase productivity while reduc-
ing energy use,” saidKevin Kosobud,
Portfolio Leader, Oil Flooded Com-
pressors for Compression Technolo-
gies and Services at Ingersoll Rand.
“Our Next-Generation R-Series RS200
to RS250modelshelp customers in-
crease overall system reliability and
decrease their total cost of ownership
with new state-of-the-art features
and performance enhancements
that save them tens of thousands of
rupees.”
Ingersoll Rand has added these mod-
els to the Next Generation R-Series
portfolio allowing customers who
run 24/7 and rely on large amounts
of compressed air tohave equipment
that is as reliable as their demand. Ac-
cordingtointernal testing, efficiency
and design improvements on some
of the high capacity compressorsde-
liver up toINR 23.4 Lakhs energy cost
savings over a two-year periodper-
compressor compared to previous
models .
At the core of every Ingersoll Rand
Next Generation R-Series compres-
sor is an airend that is specifically de-
signed to improve overall system ef-
ficiency. In addition to the enhanced
single-stage airend, the RS200 to
RS250 models arealso available with
the newtwo-stage airend. This two-
stage airend is the most efficient
airend available today.
Each compressor comes standard
with Progressive Adaptive Control
(PAC) Protection, VShieldTM technolo-
gy, floating coolers and Ultra Coolant.
These featureshelp keep equipment
running efficiently and maximize up-
time for facilities that are manufac-
turing around the clock.
y PAC Protectionis a unique algo-
rithm developed by Ingersoll Rand
and is integrated in the controls
system within each compressor.
The system monitors key perfor-
mance parameters for when con-
sumable partsare nearing the end
of their life,or if operating temper-
atures are reachingdesign limits.
In these situations, the controls
adjust the parameters to keep the
machine running without over-
loading the motor, preventing un-
necessary shutdown.
y V-Shield technology safeguards all
critical fittings by securing them
with o-ring face seals in a method
that is largely free from distor-
tion. Leaks are virtually eliminated,
meaning performance isn’t sacri-
ficed, regardless of how many re-
connections are made.
y The floating cooling system from
Ingersoll Randcontains heat ex-
changerswith finger-tight connec-
tionsso they can expand and con-
tract as needed. This new design
improves overall system reliability,
because welded connections re-
duce the ability for heat exchang-
ers to expand and contract, which
is the number one reason they fail.
y Ultra Coolant is formulated to last
up to 8,000 hours, which is twice
as long as other rotary lubricants.
Ultra Coolant keeps compressors
running at peak performance,
minimizing downtime and lower-
ing lifecycle costs.
y All Next Generation R-Series air
compressors are equipped with
Xe-series controllers, which allow
easy,intuitive access to, and con-
trol of, the compressed air system.
NEWS
15
www.textilevaluechain.comJune 2017
Indian Textile Industry Aims to Reach US$650
Billion by 2025
Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University, USA
Indian Prime
Minister sets
the goal for In-
dian textiles
sector to reach
US$650 billion
by 2025.
Mr. Narendra
Modi, Honor-
able Prime Min-
ister of India,
while inaugurat-
ing India’s larg-
est ever textile
meet, Textiles
India-2017 on
June 30th in
Gandhinagar, Gujarat, India heralded the strength and
capacity of the Indian textile industry.
Speaking extemporaneously in Hindi and English thrilled
a large audience in Mahatma Mandir, Gandhinagar with
statistics about India’s textile industry and outlining the
opportunities for the sector.
Using a slogan, “farm to foreign,” the Honourable Prime
Minister, emphasized the need for increasing the exports
to reach the target of US$ 650 billion by 2025.
Speed, scale and quality are necessitates for Indian tex-
tiles to compete against countries like China, said the
Prime Minister. Innovation and research are needed to
meet the demands of consumers in other countries as
culture, life style and fashion trends are different. He also
emphasized some specific areas such as organic dyes,
which need attention.
This scribe was in the audience while the Prime Minister
was delivering the inaugural address at the mega textile
event that had over 1000 exhibitors and 15,000 registered
buyers/delegates from many different countries.
Ministry of Textiles, Government of India organized the
3-day event, which attracted a large technical audience
and general public.
NEWS
www.textilevaluechain.com
16 June 2017
COVER STORY
Disruptive Innovation – Approach for today’s Businesses
Today’s business world is ex-
tremely saturated. Pick any
niche and you’ll see multiple
companies fighting each other
for dominance. When the mar-
kets are so competitive, a busi-
ness needs to do something
really unique to stand out. It
needs to innovate, understand
its potential customers, and ca-
ter to their wants even before
they realise them; it needs to
disrupt the market. And this
sort of thinking isn’t anything
new. Companies have been do-
ing it for years without the fancy
tag attached to it. They thought
outside the box and they broke
the rules; and in doing so, they cre-
ated a unique and unassailable posi-
tion for themselves in the market and
in their customer’s lives.
A disruptive innovation is an innova-
tion that creates a new market and
value network and eventually dis-
rupts an existing market and value
network, displacing established mar-
ket leading firms, products and al-
liances. The term was defined and
phenomenon analyzed by Clayton
M. Christensen and coworkers begin-
ning in 1995. Since the early 2000s,
“significant societal impact” has also
been viewed as an aspect of disrup-
tive innovation.
Disruptive innovations tend to be
produced by outsiders and entrepre-
neurs, rather than existing market-
leading companies. The business
environment of market leaders does
not allow them to pursue disruptive
innovations when they first arise, be-
cause they are not profitable enough
at first and because their develop-
ment can take scarce resources away
from sustaining innovations (which
are needed to compete against cur-
rent competition). A disruptive pro-
cess can take longer to develop than
by the conventional approach and the
risk associated to it is higher than the
other more incremental or evolution-
ary forms of innovations, but once it
is deployed in the market, it achieves
a much faster penetration and higher
degree of impact on the established
markets.
What they have shown is that good
firms are usually aware of the inno-
vations, but their business environ-
ment does not allow them to pursue
them when they first arise, because
they are not profitable enough at first
and because their development can
take scarce resources away from that
of sustaining innovations (which are
needed to compete against current
competition). In Christensen’s terms,
a firm’s existing value networks place
insufficient value on the disruptive
innovation to allow its pursuit by
that firm. Meanwhile, start-up firms
inhabit different value networks, at
least until the day that their disrup-
tive innovation is able to invade the
older value network. At that time, the
established firm in that network can
at best only fend off the market share
attack with a me-too entry, for which
survival (not thriving) is the only re-
ward.
Metamorphosis of Mass Apparel
Textile Business Model:
The US apparel market is to a large
extent a mass retail market. The ma-
jor resellers are – with very few excep-
tions – in total control of the various
sales channels and ‘brand spirit’ is not
very relevant. In recent years US fash-
ion firms set out along a path of total
– or almost total – subcontracting
of their design and production
processes. Many of them simply
surrendered control of their own
brand and lost the means to dif-
ferentiate themselves clearly from
the competition. These companies
are now aware of the problem and
have recently started to backtrack
fast, with a return to designing on
home soil and manufacturing, if
not at home, then at least in neigh-
bouring countries such as Mexico.
What’s important for these US ap-
parel companies is to find a way
of re-vitalizing their brand image.
In Europe, fashion markets vary
enormously from one country to
another. In France and Italy, for exam-
ple, fashion brands, especially luxury
fashion brands, have never looked
healthier. They’re benefiting from
strong consumer demand in emerg-
ing countries, as they serve as a social
marker for these populations. These
days we see that, whatever the geo-
graphical market, the differentiator
in most cases lies in the development
and impact of the brand. So the busi-
ness models have moved towards a
focus on brand value.
Innovating in activities: From effi-
cient to intelligent
One of the most dominant beliefs
governing today’s big companies is
that improving efficiency is the most
reliable way to increase profits. Espe-
cially if market requirements change
only gradually, companies have plen-
ty of time to minimize the produc-
tion costs of their existing products.
Today, of course, constant efficiency
improvements are a prerequisite for
a healthy bottom line.
They may be necessary, but they’re
not sufficient. In today’s rapidly
changing markets, many products
become obsolete before they have
been “leaned out,” so managers get
less time to optimize production pro-
cesses fully. Companies are therefore
building flexibility and embedded in-
telligence directly into the production
17
www.textilevaluechain.comJune 2017
COVER STORY
process to help them adapt quickly
to changing needs. Embedded intelli-
gence can, over time, help companies
to improve both the performance
and the value-in-use of products and
services and thus to improve their
pricing. In essence, digitization is em-
powering businesses to go beyond
efficiency, to create learning systems
that work harder and smarter.
Disruptive innovations don’t catch
on with mainstream customers
until quality catches up to their
standards.
Disruption theory differentiates dis-
ruptive innovations from what are
called “sustaining innovations.” The
latter make good products better in
the eyes of an incumbent’s existing
customers: the fifth blade in a razor,
the clearer TV picture, better mobile
phone reception. These improve-
ments can be incremental advances
or major breakthroughs, but they all
enable firms to sell more products to
their most profitable customers.
Apple iPod and iPad
Apple is the best and foremost ex-
ample of disrupting the market and
creating a new one while doing so.
The company changed the way we
listened to music with the iPod when
the rest of the world was hooked on
Sony’s Discman. They did the same
for tablets with the iPad when every-
one was clamouring for smartphones.
By releasing niche products time and
again, Apple established itself as the
foremost brand in a market that they
had created. And this was all because
of Steve Jobs’ idea of innovation
which revolved around his tenet: “A
lot of times, people don’t know what
they want until you show it to them.”
1. Disruption is a process.
Most every innovation—disruptive
or not—begins life as a small-scale
experiment. Disrupters tend to fo-
cus on getting the business model,
rather than merely the product, just
right. When they succeed, their move-
ment from the fringe (the low end of
the market or a new market) to the
mainstream erodes first the incum-
bents’ market share and then their
profitability. This process can take
time, and incumbents can get quite
creative in the defense of their estab-
lished franchises. For example, more
than 50 years after the first discount
department store was opened, main-
stream retail companies still operate
their traditional department-store
formats. Complete substitution, if it
comes at all, may take decades, be-
cause the incremental profit from
staying with the old model for one
more year trumps proposals to write
off the assets in one .
2. Some disruptive innovations
succeed; some don’t.
A common mistake is to focus on
the results achieved—to claim that a
company is disruptive by virtue of its
success. But success is not built into
the definition of disruption: Not every
disruptive path leads to a triumph,
and not every triumphant newcomer
follows a disruptive path.
If we call every business success a
“disruption,” then companies that
rise to the top in very different ways
will be seen as sources of insight into
a common strategy for succeeding.
This creates a danger: Managers may
mix and match behaviors that are
very likely inconsistent with one an-
other and thus unlikely to yield the
hoped-for result. For example, both
Uber and Apple’s iPhone owe their
success to a platform-based model:
Uber digitally connects riders with
drivers; the iPhone connects app de-
velopers with phone users.
3. The mantra “Disrupt or be dis-
rupted” can misguide us.
Incumbent companies do need to
respond to disruption if it’s occur-
ring, but they should not overreact
by dismantling a still-profitable busi-
ness. Instead, they should continue
to strengthen relationships with core
customers by investing in sustaining
innovations. In addition, they can cre-
ate a new division focused solely on
the growth opportunities that arise
from the disruption. Of course, as
the disruptive stand-alone business
grows, it may eventually steal cus-
tomers from the core. But corporate
leaders should not try to solve this
problem before it is a problem.
Disruption theory does not, and nev-
er will, explain everything about inno-
vation specifically or business success
generally. Far too many other forces
are in play, each of which will reward
further study. Integrating them all
into a comprehensive theory of busi-
ness success is an ambitious goal,
one we are unlikely to attain anytime
soon.
Key References :
www.knowledge.instead.edu
www.hbr.org
• https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/disruptive
business model
• www.managementstudyguide.com
• http://www.claytonchristensen.com/
key-concepts
• http://www.mckinsey.com/busi-
n e s s - f u n c t i o n s / s t r a t e g y - a n d -
corporate-finance/our-insights/
disrupting-beliefs-a-new-approach-to-
business-model-innovation
Rushin H.Vadhani
AGM-Marketing
AYM Syntex Ltd.
(Formerly Welspun Syntex Ltd.)
Rushin H.Vadhani
www.textilevaluechain.com
18 June 2017
“Hagfish Slime Threads”
M
ucins and protein threads
are the two major important
parts of hagfish slime pro-
duced from slime glands. Hagfish re-
lease slime in different amounts, de-
pending on the circumstances. They
produce slime in small amounts while
feeding on a carcass, a behaviour that
might be designed to ward off other
scavengers. Hagfish slime threads,
which make the fibrous component
of the defensive slime of hagfishes,
it consist of primarily proteins from
the intermediate filament family of
proteins and possess impressive me-
chanical properties that make them
attractive biomimetic models. The
hagfish slime threads are tapered
at both ends, and the hagfish slime
threads have high performance prop-
erties that’s hagfish slime can be a re-
source for tomorrow’s natural fabric.
Hagfish slime protein thread is 100
times thinner than the average hu-
man hair.
The slime contains tens of thou-
sands of 1−3 μm diameter threads
composed of proteins from the “in-
termediate filaments” family of pro-
teins (IFs). IFs are ubiquitous 10 nm
cytoskeletal elements found in most
metazoan cells and also make up the
fibrous component in mammalian α-
keratins. The primary structure of IF
proteins is a tripartite molecular or-
ganization with a central α-helical rod
domain flanked by non-α-helical head
and tail domains.
Slime threads and their constituent
IFs possess a number of attractive
properties that make them promising
biomimetic models for production of
protein-based biomaterials. Hagfish
slime threads that are stretched in
water and dried have excellent mate-
rial properties. IF proteins have the
ability to self-assemble into networks
of high aspect ratio filaments (i.e. 10
nm diameter, > 103 nm in length) in
aqueous solutions, which raises the
possibility that fibres could be spun
from IF gels. In addition, slime thread
proteins lend themselves to expres-
sion in bacterial vectors as they are
neither large nor repetitive like spider
silk genes.
History of Hagfish Slime
Hagfish, also called Northern hagfish,
slime hag and slime eel, are elon-
gated, eel-shaped, bottom-dwelling
marine organisms. They are charac-
terized by soft, scale-less skin and
four pairs of tentacles (barbells) sur-
rounding the mouth and opening
for the nasopharyngeal duct, used in
respiratory water intake. The mouth
of hagfish contains a protractible
and retractable orange colored car-
tilaginous plate that bears two sets
of sharp teeth
often referred
to as the rasp-
ing tongue. The
tongue uses
grasps and
burrows into
food resources.
The skeleton is
made entirely
of cartilage
with 5 to 15
pairs of gills.
This species is jawless and lacks
both a sympathetic nervous system
and spleen. Hagfish have poorly de-
veloped eyes covered by skin and a
layer of muscle and are considered
nocturnal creatures with a superior
sense of touch and smell. The hagfish
has no true fins except for a primi-
tive tail fin created by a fold in skin.
Hagfish have numerous specialized
glands on either side of the abdomen
that produce enormous quantities of
mucus or slime when it is stressed or
provoked. Tiny fibres reinforce the
slime making it strong and difficult to
remove for protection against preda-
tors. The hagfish escapes its slime co-
coon by tying itself in a knot and then
passing the knot down the length of
its body in order to wipe the slime
away.
Hagfish vary in color from a mottled
grey-brown to a red-grey upper and
a white to pale grey on the underside
(Fig. 1) Hagfish typically grow to 40.6
to 81.3 cm in length. Variations in
body color correspond to changes in
the color of the sea bed. Atlantic hag-
fish (Myxineglutinosa) is a cold water
species that prefers a soft, muddy
bottom and lives at depths of 30 to
1200 meters or more. Hagfish require
high salinity (approximately 30 ppt
or more) and low temperatures as-
sociated with deeper water and are
usually found half-concealed in the
bottom sediment. They are widely
distributed in the Arctic Sea south-
ward along both coasts of
the north Atlantic.
Fig 1 Hagfish
Mechanism and structure
of hagfish slime threads
Mucins and protein threads
are two major parts of hag-
fish slime produced from
slime glands. Hagfish can
develop high amount of
slime because it having a
three order of magnitude
and it is highly dissolved then typi-
cal mucus secretions. Slime thread
has optimum material properties
and generates high elastic material.
Mucins impart viscosity at the strain
rates tested and are important for
rapid deployment of the slime. Hag-
fish slime threads are tapered at both
ends, and it suggests that hagfish
slime as a resource for tomorrow’s
natural fabric. Hagfish slime consists
mainly of bulk sea water entrained
between mucin-coated threads, and
thus functions more like a fine sieve
than coherent mucus.
Hagfish slime makes silken thread:
The hagfish slime can be a resource
for tomorrow’s natural fabric. The
fig 2 shows the hagfish secrete slime
COVER STORY
19
www.textilevaluechain.comJune 2017
when threatened. This
Along with other natural such as spi-
der and silkworm silk, hagfish fibres
could serve as a greener alternative
to polymers such as rayon, nylon or
polyester all of which have to be made
with petroleum. Hagfish which aren’t
true fish and resemble eels make a
slime that contains thousands of fi-
bres when bothered or threatened.
Glands on their skin quickly release a
mucous-like substance that expands
as it mixes with seawater. The re-
sult is a kind of slimy, viscous region
around the hagfish that some marine
bio legists think serves as a defensive
mechanism by clogging gills. Cer-
tainly predators, such as sharks, that
try to bite or swallow the hagfish are
quickly convinced to back off.
The fibres hagfish make are about 70
per cent the strength of spider silk.
Unlike spider silk, however, hagfish
fibre might be amenable to mass pro-
duction. It’s probably not possible to
farm hagfish, as little is known of the
animal’s reproductive habits, for one
thing.
Hagfish slime makes super-clothes:
Threads of hagfish slime, which the
animal secrete when aggravated,
could be woven to produce a material
with the strength of nylon or plastic.
One of the most important facts of
world is the source of new kinds of
petroleum-free plastics and strong
fabrics. The manufacturing process
of hagfish slime thread like as spin-
ning of silk. Firstly, harvesting of slime
from the hagfish then dissolve it in
to the water and then produce the
structure by spinning like silk. The im-
portant thing is that the hagfish slime
able to process into a useable mate-
rial.
Engineered silkworms:
The hagfish slime is a gel like struc-
ture that is difficult to handle. The
hagfish have big whiskers, and they
don’t have eyes. Hagfish slime smells
like dirty seawater and has the con-
sistency of snot. It feels like mucous
but a little bit more wet. When we
hold the slime in to the air, water will
remove and the only threadlike struc-
ture is remain.
The threads are similar to the bone
protein and which is made up of in-
termediate filament. The hagfish
threads are 100 times smaller than
a human hair and that indicates
the unique characteristics and de-
fense mechanism. The hagfish slime
threads can be strengthening with
the composition of nylon or plastic.
Hagfish slime has the potential to be-
come a stretchy fabric.
This is the new trend of ecofriendly
fiber and which can be good solution
for fibers like Fur, hemp. The protec-
tive slime will protect to the hagfish
from external attacks. So in future
you may get the fabrics which are
silky and stretchy from the hagfish.
Slime can be used as a long life tex-
tile or developed textile:
Today’s textile market strategy has a
reasonable price with quality mate-
rial. The slime threads have better
properties for spinning and it is wo-
ven biomaterials.
Hagfish is a high growth rate animal
that leaves under water same for
the 300 million years. When slime
is threatened, hagfish generate ge-
latinous slime consist of mucous and
higher number of protein threads.
The hagfish slime threads belongs to
the intermediate filament family of
proteins and they have optimum me-
chanical properties that opposite to
the spider silks.
The process of producing spider silk
is very complicated phenomenon
and spiders cannot be produce high
quantities of silk within minimum
time. The Hagfish slime have high po-
tential to produce a high quality pro-
tein based fibers rather than spider
silk proteins.
Conclusion:
Now a day’s hagfish slime material
plays a very important role in fashion.
Move over organic cotton. Clothes
made from hagfish slime could one
day be the height of sustainable fash-
ion. Synthetic fabric such as nylon
and polyester are made from petro-
leum. A green, natural alternative
would be a protein-based cloth made
from spider silk or the thick slime
made by the hagfish to help it escape
predators. The hagfish slime pro-
tein threads generally 100 times less
in diameter than human hair. The
strength of hagfish slime threads is
10 times higher than the strength of
nylon. The proteins in hagfish slime
are several times smaller than those
in spider silk, so it should be easier
for bacteria to make them. The real
fact would be if we could use bacte-
rial hagfish proteins as a sustainable
replacement for synthetic fibres, but
the method will have to be improved
before we can manufacture textiles in
this way.
Reference:
• Douglas S. Fudge, Nimrod Levy, Scott
Chiu and John M. Gosline, “Composi-
tion, morphology and mechanics of
hagfish slime,” The Journal of Experi-
mental Biology 208, 4613-4625,2005
• Jorgensen J.M., J. P. Lomholt, R. E. Weber
and H. Malte, “The Biology of Hagfishes,
Chapman & Hall,” 1998.
• Randy H. & Ewoldt, “Non-linear viscoe-
lasticity of hagfish slime,” Institute for
Mathematics and its Applications & De-
partment of Chemical Engineering.
• Atsuko Negishi, Clare L. Armstrong,
Laurent Kreplak, Maikel C. Rheinstad-
ter, Loong-Tak Lim, Todd E. Gillis, and
Douglas S. Fudge*, “The Production of
Fibres and Films from Solubilized Hag-
fish Slime Thread Proteins.”
• J. E. Herr1, T. M. Winegard1, M. J.
O’Donnell2, P. H. Yancey3 and D. S.
Fudge1*, “Stabilization and swelling of
hagfish slime mucin vesicles.” (Bio mac-
romolecules, doi.org/jwh).
Fig 2. Hagfish secrete slime when threatened.
This can be made into natural fibre like spider
silk
COVER STORY
www.textilevaluechain.com
20 June 2017
• Downing S.W., R.H. Spitzer, W.L. Salo,
J.S. Downing, L.J. Saidel, and E.A. Koch,
“Threads in the hagfish slime gland
thread cells: organization, biochemical
features, and length”, Science 212: 326-
327, 1981.
• Fernholm, B., “Thread cells from the
slime gland of the hagfish, ActaZoologi-
ca 62: 137-145, 1981.
• Ferry, J.D., “A fibrous protein from the
slime of the hagfish,” J. Biol. Chem. 138:
263-268, 1941.
• Koch, E.A., R.H. Spitzer, R.B. Pithawalla,
and S.W. Downing,“Keratin-like compo-
nents of gland thread cells modulate
the properties of mucus from the hag-
fish,” Cell Tissue Res. 264:79-86, 1991.
• Koch, E.A., R.H. Spitzer, R.B. Pithawalla,
F.A. Castillos III, and D.A. Parry,“Hagfish
biopolymer: a type I/type II homologue
of epidermal keratin intermediate fila-
ments,” Int. J. Biol. Macromol. 17:283-
292, 1995.
• Martini, F., “Secrets of the slime hag,”
Scientific American, October 1998, 70-
75, 1998.
• Newby W.W., “The slime glands and
thread cells of the hagfish, Polistrotrem-
astouti,” J. Morph. 78: 397-409, 1946.
Mr. Navnath V. Karche,
Ms. Priyanka N. Gavhankar,
Mr. Bhupendra Dansena
DKTE’S Textile and Engineering Institute,
Ichalkaranji, Kolhapur. 416115
COVER STORY
Solid State Polymerization and enhancing Crystallinity & Molecu-
lar weight to improve tensile properties of Polyester yarn
A
bstract: Solid State Polymeriza-
tion (SSP) is a process in which
the polymer chain lengths are
increased by heat in the absence of
oxygen and water, by means of either
vacuum or purging with an inert gas
to drive off the by-products of reac-
tions. The reaction is driven by tem-
perature, pressure, and the diffusion
of by-products from the interior of
the pellet to the surface. SSP is an
important step frequently used after
melt-polymerization for the purpose
of enhancing the mechanical and
rheological properties of polymers
before injection blow molding or ex-
truding. The SSP technique is widely
applied in industrial manufacture of
bottle-grade PET, films, and superior
industrial fibers.
Keyword: SSP- Solid State Polymeriza-
tion, Tg Glass Transition temperature,
Tm Melt temperature, IV Intransic Vis-
cosity,
After polymerization in the melt
phase, the molecular weight of poly-
ester can be further increased by
polycondensation of PET chips in the
solid state and this process is called
solid state polymerization (SSP). This
process enables higher molecular
weights to be reached which are ei-
ther technically or commercially not
feasible in the melt phase. Solid state
polymerization in the form of chips or
powder, pre-extrusion SSP is a com-
mon approach in the production of
high molecular weight polymers for
molded products.
Polycondensation reaction is exother-
mic, therefore, it can also be driven
forward to give polymer with higher
molecular weight if the reaction is
carried out at a lower temperature.
At lower temperatures of polycon-
densation, equilibrium shifts forward
to higher completion enabling forma-
tion of higher molecular weight of the
product. Since temperatures cannot
be lowered in melt polymerization,
the best solution is to carry out the
reaction in solid state, wherein tem-
peratures lower than melting point
of the polymer can be used. At these
temperatures, the kinetics of the re-
action is slow and it takes a long time
to complete the reaction.
The molecular weight can be in-
creased up to 27000 (IV, 0.90) for bot-
tle grade and as high as 38000 (IV,
1.20) for technical applications such
as tyre cord, seal belts and air bags
The first step before carrying out
the solid state polymerization is pre-
crystallization of chips. The water
quenched polymer chips obtained
from melt polycondensation stage
are almost wholly amorphous. There-
fore, the chips are first intensely dried
and annealed at a gradually increas-
ing temperature up to the point of
maximum crystallization rate to im-
part high level of crystallinity. This
raises the glass transition tempera-
ture of the chips and prevents their
sticking to each other during solid
state polymerization.
The SSP is performed at tempera-
tures between 220 and 235°C for
PET, which lie above the glass transi-
tion temperature and below the crys-
talline melting point of PET. Under
these conditions, polymer chain end
groups are mobilized sufficiently to
undergo polycondensation. The an-
nealed chips are heated in a stream
of hot inert gas or by agitating in a
vacuum drier to remove small traces
of EG and other volatile by-products.
As the reaction is carried out in the
solid phase, volatile by-products can
diffuse easily to the surface of each
polymer chip and are instantly carried
away by the gas flow or high vacuum.
The main advantages of increas-
ing molecular weight in solid state
compared to melt phase are:
1. Problems associated with stirring
of viscous melt are eliminated.
2. Degradation and side reactions
are limited in the solid state due
to lower processing temperature
used. Solid state polycondensa-
tion process favours polymeriza-
tion process compared to depo-
lymerization.
3. Best means of achieving PET with
21
www.textilevaluechain.comJune 2017
acceptable level of acetaldehyde.
The rate of the solid state polycon-
densation process depends on parti-
cle size, initial molecular weight, crys-
tallinity of PET chips and end group
concentration. The pellet size has
generally been used to identify the
rate controlling mechanism of overall
reaction rate. When the reaction rate
is chemically controlled, then the pel-
let size has no effect on the reaction
rate. On the other hand, if reaction
rate is diffusion controlled, i.e. limited
by the diffusion of byproducts from
inside of the pellet chips to the pel-
let surface, then the reaction rate can
be increased by decreasing the pellet
size, due to decrease in the length of
diffusion path.
It has also been shown that the
higher starting molecular weights
enable higher molecular weights to
be achieved. this has been attrib-
uted to the tendency of the lower
starting molecular weights to lead
to higher crystallinity build-up dur-
ing SSP. Crystallization reduces the
SSP reaction rate by reducing chain
mobility and by increasing the diffu-
sion path length of the by-products.
The crystallinity of polymer should be
between 33 and 58% and should not
exceed 80%.The reaction rate is very
sensitive to the ratio of hydroxyl to
carboxyl end groups. At low carboxyl
concentrations, the transesterifica-
tion reaction will be favoured, while
at high carboxyl concentrations the
esterification route will be preferred.
The optimum ratio of hydroxyl end
groups to carboxylic end groups has
been experimentally found to be two.
A. How the Process Works
• Receive PET, polyesters or other
condensation polymers made by
melt polymerization
• Transfer the pellets to a Rotary
Vacuum Dryer (RVD)
• Generally, the vacuum pump re-
moves air, water and by-products
of the SSP; alternatively, nitrogen
purging is used
• The temperature/time profile is
controlled with a microprocessor
• Initial heating at a temperature
above Tg cold crystallizes amor-
phous pellets to prevent sticking
and fusion of pellets
• Heating is continued to dry the
”wet” pellets
• Heating is continued to a prede-
termined temperature below the
melting temperature of the poly-
mer
• Solid state polymerization is done
at a high temperature and low
vacuum (or alternatively at zero
oxygen level with nitrogen purg-
ing) to achieve the desired high
molecular weight of the polymer
• The SSP progress is followed by
periodically taking samples with
custom designed samplers
• The melt viscosity at a specific
temperature of that sample is de-
termined within several minutes
• The Intrinsic Viscosity is obtained
from the Correlation Chart/Curve
established from melt viscos-
ity data and Intrinsic Viscosity
obtained from solution viscosity
at ambient temperatures for PET
homopolymers
• The final product viscosity is as
specified by the customer
• A major benefit of solid state po-
lymerization is obtaining a desired
high molecular weight polymer of
uniform and consistent Intrinsic
Viscosity
• Other major benefits include the
reduction of undesirable side re-
actions and the levels of by-prod-
ucts
• For PET, the SSP by-products are
ethylene glycol and acetaldehyde
• When the desired molecular
weight is achieved, the product
pellets are cooled and transferred
to storage tanks
• The product pellets are classified,
packaged and shipped according
to customer requirements
Applications of IDY:-
Automobile tires, safety belts, airbags,
geotextiles, mooring ropes for drilling
platforms, conveyor belts, sails and
fishing nets – all these are manufac-
tured using industrial yarns. Indus-
trial yarns are considered to be the
ultimate discipline in filament manu-
facturing. High tenacities, extreme
dimensional stability, tremendous
durability along with a large range
of titers – although the demanding
production process promises high-
margins, it is however also simultane-
ously a huge challenge both for the
yarn manufacturer and the systems
constructor.
REFERENCES:-
[1]. Rabindranath K, Mashelkar R A, J. Appl.
Poly. Sci. 1990.
[2]. Culbert B., Christel A. “Continuous Solid
state Polymerization of Polyesters”.
[3]. Papaspyrides C.D, Vouyiouka S. N; “Fun-
damentals of Solid-state Polymeriza-
tion.
[4]. petus.com/ssp.aspx
[5]. nptel.ac.in/courses/116102010/40
Digambar Chavan, P V Kadole
DKTE’s Textile & Engineering Institute
Ichalkaranji, India.
COVER STORY
www.textilevaluechain.com
22 June 2017
C
handeri cloth is composed of
the tana, which is the warp or
the length-wise, stretched out
set of threads through which the
bana or the weft is woven back and
forth. Since the inception of weav-
ing in Chanderi, till about 1920s, only
white and off-white cloth was woven
with its ends fringed with zari or gold-
en thread. Only hand-spun cotton
thread was utilized, even in the tana,
even though it was barely strong
enough to be held under tension.
The then weavers were highly skilled
workers as they had to be extremely
careful while handling the delicate
cotton yarn, producing an assortment
of garments including safas, pagdis,
dupattas, lugadas and saris.
Chanderi refers to a shimmering cot-
ton fabric which is famous for being
light weight and having sheer texture
and glossy transparency. Practiced
exclusively in a town called Chand-
eri in Madhya Pradesh, India, the art
derived its name from. Saris weaved
out of chanderi are best for summer
wear. Motifs used in chanderi weav-
ing are mostly inspired from nature
(earth and sky). Few of them are
Swans (hamsa), gold coins (asharfi),
trees, fruits, flowers and heavenly
bodies. Soft pastel hues characterize
chanderi fabrics however, timeless
combinations of bright colour bor-
ders on an off white base, or red on
black, also exist now.
INTRODUCTION-
Chanderi, which is amongst the best
known handloom clusters, occupies
a special place because of its centu-
ries old weaving specialty of produc-
ing finely textured fabrics of silk and
cotton embellished with zari woven
work, and more specifically because
of its saris that have been patronized
by royalty. Chanderi is known to have
its origin back in the Vedic Period,
and is believed to have founded by
Lord Krishna’s cousin, Shishupal. The
Chanderi produces three kinds of fab-
rics: Pure Silk, Chanderi Cotton and
Silk Cotton. The motifs have come a
long way from the traditional coin,
floral and peacocks to the geometrics.
Chanderi Saree, a product intricately
woven by hand interspersed with the
delicacy of the extra weft motifs that
has for times immemorial satisfied
the refined tastes of the royalty.
The Chanderi fabrics are known
for their sheer texture, light weight
and a glossy transparency that sets
them apart from textiles produced
en masse in factories. Traditionally,
the fabric was woven using very fine
hand spun yarn, which accounted for
its delicate texture. So its quality, de-
signs colors and motifs would be ap-
propriate to cater the demands of an
elite class family.
A beautiful blend of Cotton, Silk
thread and zari results to Chanderi
fabric”
A Chanderi fabric is famous by the
name of Chanderi town in Madhya
Pradesh. The fabric is a result of tra-
ditional methods of hand weaving
that have been developed over the
centuries and passed down through
generations. Chanderi is primarily a
weaver’s town, located near the riv-
er Betwa in Guna district of Madhya
Pradesh. Around 60% population of
Chanderi are involved in the manu-
facturing of Chanderi.As the fabric is
woven by three kinds of threads the
Cotton, Silk thread and Zari are im-
ported from other regions in India as
well as China, Japan and Korea. The
chemical dyes are preferably used
due to their fast acting quality. Tra-
ditional looms are used as a primary
means of production. These include
Pit, Dobby and Jacquard Looms. Most
Chanderis have a rich gold border
and two lines of gold on the pallu.
Some have gold checks or little mo-
tifs (known as butis). The weavers in-
volved in the process are long stand-
ing in trade and are well experienced.
The Chanderi fabric is light weight
and has intricate designs.
The Chanderi Fabric is also well
known for its transparency and sheer
texture. The transparency is a unique
feature, which is not commonly or
found in any of the textile product all
over the country.
The transparency in Chanderi Fabric
products is the consequence of Single
Flature quality of yarn used. Flature
yarn is the quality of yarn when the
glue of the raw yarn is not taken out.
The degumming of the raw yarn gives
shine and transparency to the fin-
ished fabric. This quality is not found
in any other fabric of the country and
it is exclusive to the Chanderi Fabric.
The special transparent yarn is used
both in warp and weft of different va-
rieties and configurations. The trans-
parent yarn is cotton and as well as
silk also.
The yarn used in Chanderi fabric is
of high quality and extra fine. Be-
cause of non-degumming of the raw
yarn, the finished fabric produced is
extremely transparent and which in
consequence result into sheer tex-
ture.
Chanderi is famous for its drape of
saree with rich gold border at the
‘pallu’ and some selective ones hav-
ing gold embellishments with lotus
roundels or butis, spread all across
the six yards.
Chanderi involve in production of
three kinds of fabrics mainly:
y Pure silk where the warp and weft
is woven in pure silk.
y Chanderi cotton The warp and
weft are 100s or 120s cotton.
The Chanderi muslins have been
known for their smoothness and
softness; this was conventionally
attained by using koli- a local wild
onion used for sizing. Today this
quality has been put to an end.
CHANDERI WEAVING- AN EXCLUSIVE ART OF INDIA
COVER STORY
23
www.textilevaluechain.comJune 2017
Silk cotton the weaver skillfully
coalesce 13/15-denier warp with
100s/120s cotton in the weft.
DIFFERENT STAGES FOR THE PRO-
DUCTION OF CHANDERI WEAVING
1. PROCUREMENT OF RAW MATE-
RIAL:
The raw material is purchased by the
Master Weaver from the yarn dealers
who in turn get the silk from Karna-
taka. The silk yarn used is largely im-
ported Chinese or Korean silk. The
cotton yarn is procured from places
like Coimbatore in southern India
and Jaipur, and is usually pre-dyed.
The yarn dealers of cotton often get
customized colors dyed as per the re-
quirements. The minimum quantity
required for such dyeing is almost 25
kgs or 10 hanks.
2. THE DYEING PROCESS
In Chanderi is done mainly for the
silk yarn by the local dyers who have
been in this skill
since long. The silk yarn dying process
takes about 45 to 60 minutes depend-
ing on the colour.
3. AFTER DYEING PROCESS
The yarn is loosened or wound on
reels. This is a prelude to the prepara-
tion of the warpand weft
4. WARPING
For the weft the yarn is wound on
pirns with the help of a charkha and
this activity is usually performed by
the members of the weavers’ fam-
ily. Warping is a specialised process,
which is performed by the warpers.
The warp yarns are wound on bob-
bins, which are arranged across a
wooden frame called reel. The yarns
from these reels pass through a reed
to be wound around a vertical drum.
A warper in good times would warp 4
or 5 warps for 12 saris each.
5. PASSING THE WARP THROUGH
THE REED
The next step is the task of passing
the warp through the reed and the
healds. The warp threads are then
joined to the old warp threads with a
deft twist of the hand of the women
folk. This process takesapprox 3-4
days.
6. THE DESIGN OF THE BORDER AND
THE PALLAV.
Before the actual weaving begins the
weaver sets the design of the border
and the pallav. The respective ends of
the design are tied to a vertical har-
ness called jala. This process takes
anywhere between 3-4 days depend-
ing on the complexity of the design.
The figured effects are produced with
the help of an extra weft and the
number of ‘tillis’ i.e. the no. of weft
yarns will determine the time taken.
The amount of time taken reduces
if the number of ply in the weft yarn
is more and consequently the weav-
er can move faster and cover more
ground. However in this case the out-
put is less fine. Similarly higher the
reed count more is the production
time.
7. WEAVING
The weaving is performed by one
or two very skilled weavers of the
same family. The looms being used
are largely traditional pit looms with
throw shuttle. The Chanderi fabric
does not require any post loom pro-
cess and is cut off the loom to be
packed and sold. Little is done by
way of labeling and product specifica-
tion or by way of customized packing
methods.
BASIC CHARECTERISTICS OF CHAN-
DERI WEAVING
The Chanderi zari, which is sourced
from Surat, can either be real or test-
ed. It comes in three separate shades:
y Copper,
y Silver and
y Golden.
Earlier the looms known as the Throw-
shuttle pit loom were in use. Weaving
on this was a very time consuming
process and it required two weavers
to sit side by side on the same loom.
The Nal Pherma saris were woven on
this loom which had one colour in
one border, another in the other bor-
der and a different one in the body of
the sari. Nowadays, however, only the
Fly-shuttle looms are in use and these
are operated by a single weaver.
CHANDERI WEAVING
The process of Chanderi weaving has
the following steps:
Designing of fibre:-Two types of de-
signing are done in the case of Chan-
deri weaving. One is the main design
for the sari itself that contains vari-
ous aspects like the border, the kind
of motifs to be used, color combina-
tions, etc. This is usually provided by
the ordering party. This procedure is
informal in the case of the local deal-
er but in the case of the big trading
houses, a laminated paper with the
design, the threads to be used and
the location of motifs, etc., are pro-
vided to the weaver as a sample. The
other is the more exquisite motif or
booty designing which is done by the
master weaver on a graph paper. This
is provided to the weaver depending
on the terms of the order.
(2) Dyeing is an important part of the
whole process, as both cotton and
silk require dyeing before they can
be used on the loom. The process of
dyeing is normally carried out by spe-
cialized technicians who work for the
dealer and are paid by him. There are
different kinds of dyes for coloring
silk and cotton. For cotton, a ready-
made fast color dye is used while for
silk special dyes called Sando Silk are
used which are also readymade dyes.
The process of dyeing starts with
dissolving the readymade fast color
dye in warm water. The threads are
dipped into this solution and left for
a while before being taken out. De-
pending on the quality of the dye,
are dipped into the solution again for
some time .
After this they are washed in with
plain water and then soaked in a so-
lution of warm water, detergent and
soda. Finally, the threads are washed
once more and hung on bamboo
poles to dry. Once they are dry, they
are sent back to the weavers for fur-
ther processing.
COVER STORY
www.textilevaluechain.com
24 June 2017
CONCLUSION
Though Chanderi products have a
high exportable value, it does not
carry the same appeal. It is marketed
to the local souk within the country.
Only 10% of the total production is
exported while the rest of the 90% is
circulated within the national bound-
aries. As of the modern designs of the
Chanderi, the demand of them has
been fading slowly and gradually by
the exclusive and highly fashionable
class of buyers. The demand is now
restricted to few dresses and evening
party and other ceremonial outfits
suited in summers. We should try to
encourage the local art of the region
to motivate the weavers to make bet-
ter products meeting today’s trendy
crowd.
Counting to the very luxurious, warm,
breathable and lightweight fabric,
home furnishing fabrics are very
much in use nowadays. They have
very effective role in living room for
they are soft, wrinkle and stretch re-
sistant and non-absorbent. The Chan-
deri fabrics are known for their sheer
texture, light weight and a glossy
transparency that sets them apart
from textiles produced en masse in
factories.
Chanderi weavers discovered Japa-
nese silk. They began substituting
this in the warps in cotton saris, and
also developed a silk-by-silk variety
in which their profit margins were
higher. As a result, today, it is difficult
to find a genuine cotton-by-cotton
Chanderi sari in retail establishments.
The problem of sourcing authentic
Chanderi has been exacerbated by
the development of many look-alikes
available at cheaper.
REFERENCES:-
http://chanderiheritage.in/weaving/
http://www.chanderisarees.co.in/index.
php
http://www.india1001.com/the-famous-
chanderi-fabric
www.utsavpedia.com/textiles/chanderi/
http://chanderiyaan.chanderi.org/
www.fibre2fashion.com/indianhandsn-
looms/chanderi.asp
www.fibre2fashion.com/...fashion.../fash-
ion-forecasting/fashion-forecasting...
www.indianroots.com/designer/m-q/pra-
ma-by-pratima-pandey
COVER STORY
Barhanpurkar,Prachi Hurkat,
TK Sinha,
Professor ,
Dept of Textile Technology ,SVVV, Indore
Office : E-1536-1537,New Bombay Market, Near Sahara Darwaja, Surat, Gujrat, INDIA
Factory Address:-
Plot no.46, 47, Shivdhara Raschel Park, Guy Pagla Road, Torrent Power gate, NH-8, Surat - 394150, Gujrat, INDIA
Mfg.of knitted, Embroidery & Export fabrics
Nirav Virani +91 99095 10008
Kir Kothiya + 91 99784 32203
Email :- kenyfabrics@gmail.com
fabrics
Manufacturer of Warp Knitted, Raschel, Circular, Raschel Jacquard Fabrics
ADVT
25
www.textilevaluechain.comJune 2017
Interview with Mr. Pradeep David, General Manager,
Universal Robots, India and Sri Lanka
1. Give us a brief background of
Universal Robots.
In 2003, the three founders of the
company, Esben Østergaard, Kasper
Støy and Kristian Kassow, together
came up with the idea of creating a
light robot that is easy to install and
program as they could see that heavy,
expensive and unwieldy robots were
dominating robotics and there was a
huge market for a user-friendly op-
tion. In 2005, they officially founded
Universal Robots, with the aim of
making robot technology accessible
to small and medium-sized enterpris-
es. An investment by Syddansk Inno-
vation shaped the foundation of the
company.
In 2008, the company sold its first
product through distributers in Den-
mark and Germany. Universal Ro-
bots’ first product was the UR5, a six-
jointed articulated robotic arm that
revolutionized the market for indus-
trial robots. The UR5 weighs 18 kg,
has a lifting capacity of up to 5 kg and
a working radius of 85 cm. Within a
year the company expanded its busi-
ness in the entire European markets.
In 2011, Universal Robots entered
the Asian market with an office in
China and in next two years, they es-
tablished subsidiaries, in New York,
Shanghai and, also established a dis-
tributor network in South America
and Oceania.
The second product UR 10 was also
launched at the same time. It was tar-
geted towards larger tasks with a lift-
ing ability of 10 kg and a reach of 130
cm. In 2015, the company witnessed
the launch of world’s most flexible,
lightweight table-top robot UR3, to
work alongside humans, which has a
payload capacity of 3 kilos which can
be used for light assembly tasks and
automated workbench scenarios.
The company is a part of Teradyne
Inc., headquartered in Odense, Den-
mark. UR has subsidiaries and region-
al offices in the USA, Spain, Germany,
Italy, Czech Republic, China, Singa-
pore, India, Japan, Taiwan and South
Korea.
The Indian operation of Universal
Robots started in 2016. Universal Ro-
bots has deployed over 200 Cobots in
India since 2011, majorly in the mar-
ket segments of automotive industry,
FMCG, Electronics, Education and
R&D Centers. Bajaj Auto Ltd. which
is our oldest customers in India saw
a gradual rise in the productivity and
efficiency in their production after de-
ploying UR cobots. It also increased
the productivity of their employees
along with their product quality. They
have deployed over 100 cobots since
2010 and are now the 3rd largest mo-
torcycle manufacturer in the world.
2. Tell us about Collaborative Ro-
bots and their USP.
A collaborative robot (cobot) was
assembled with the intention to of
physical interaction with humans in a
shared workspace, where the repeti-
tive and heavy tasks are taken care
by cobots and supervision and qual-
ity checks are done by human be-
ings. They are robotic arms designed
to assist human beings in a specific
task, as a guide or assistor and as a
portable tool. Various researchers
have proved that the teams made
of humans and robots collaborating
efficiently can be around 85 percent
more productive than teams made
of either humans or robots. Cobots
can safely work alongside humans,
without any danger of injury, they are
easy to deploy (just plug and play),
flexible to use and inexpensive hence
they are triggering the demand in the
manufacturing industry comprehen-
sively around the globe.
Since the first robot was launched in
2008, the company has experienced
considerable growth with the user-
friendly robots sold in more than 50
countries worldwide; 11,000 of our
collaborative robots are in use world-
wide for the industries like Automo-
tive & Subcontractors, Textiles & ap-
parels, Food & agriculture, Furniture
& Equipments, Electronics & Tech-
nology, Metal & Machining, Plastic &
Polymers, Pharma & Chemistry, Sci-
entific & Research. Some of our key
customers are BMW, Volkswagen,
Siemens, L’oreal, Bajaj Auto, Aurolabs
etc. UR cobots are also being used for
some unusual, out of the box applica-
tions like Healthcare, Physiotherapy,
Photography, Cooking, Bartending,
Farming, Flying planes etc. Develop-
mental technologies like driverless
autonomous vehicles could also see
the use of cobots, in the near future.
3. The Indian textile industry being
labour intensive; how will cobots
contribute to its development?
We at Universal Robots believe in giv-
ing back to the employees and thus,
collaborative robots will function
as a helping hand to the workforce
and not a replacement. Cobots func-
tion to increase the productivity of
the workforce as they are accessible
and easy to use, the employees too,
are excited to work side by side with
their robotic co-workers increasing
INTERVIEW
www.textilevaluechain.com
26 June 2017
efficiency along with the quality and
quantity of production.
Cobots can be used in any segment of
textile manufacturing where accura-
cy, precision and repetitive mass pro-
duction is required. The key areas in
textiles industry where UR cobots are
being used are inspection, ‘pick and
drop’, cutting and sewing. The world’s
first robot which has been used for
sewing garments is made by us.
4. How do you plan to expand the
use of collaborative robots in the
Indian Textile Industry?
Cobots are a part of Industry 4.0 which
has paved way for the next industrial
revolution – Industry 5.0, which ena-
bles man and machine to work hand-
in-hand. The scenario where humans
and robots are inter-dependent and
accomplish what each of them does
best, safely. We are in an age where
the application of next-generation au-
tomation is doing more than we ever
thought possible, impacting individu-
als and businesses in many instances
without even being noticed.
We are in talks with various textile
companies all across India and we be-
lieve that our robots are built for such
precisions.
A fabric industry needs high level of
accuracy; weather it’s the application
of picking the fabric parts from an ex-
act location (by avoiding folding and
minimize wrinkling) or cutting of ma-
terials in an exact shape or scraping
denims. Our flexible, cobots, which
occupy a very little space in work area
can work alongside workers safely as
a third arm and can help them in pro-
ducing superior products. Hence it’s
with this precision approach, we are
going into the market and
5. How would Universal robots like
to expand its operations in India
and the SAARC region?
UR Cobots are sold in more than 50
countries worldwide and 11,000 of
our robots are deployed globally.
Some of the leading manufactur-
ers are using our technology include
BMW, Volkswagen, Siemens, L’oreal,
Bajaj Auto, Aurolabs, etc. Our cobots
have got over 65 patents pertaining
to Robot Safety, Robot Construction,
Trajectory Control, and Robot Calibra-
tion & Programming.
We established office in India, Banga-
lore in February 2016 but some of the
companies in India are using our co-
bots from past 7 years, which is much
before the launch of the local opera-
tions. One of them is Bajaj Auto which
has deployed over 120 cobots since
2011. We have been successful in de-
veloping a strong channel network
which covers the entire country from
North to South and East to West.
According to a study done by Interna-
tional Federation of Robotics (2017);
the future will be robots and humans
working together. Robots substitute
labour activities but do not replace
jobs. Less than 10% of jobs are fully
automatable. Increasingly, robots are
used to complement and augment la-
bour activities; the net impact on jobs
and the quality of work is positive.
Automation provides the opportunity
for humans to focus on higher-skilled,
higher-quality and higher-paid tasks.
We believe that UR
cobots have the po-
tential to change the
dynamics of this sector.
This clearly establishes the fact that
the future of automation is not ma-
chines taking over human job but it’s
the synchronization of robots and
human which lays the foundations of
the future. We cannot always depend
on labour for high quality and repeti-
tive jobs because after a certain point
they can get tired which can affect
their performance whereas a robot
can perform such work 24 x 7 hours,
without a tea or lunch break. How-
ever there are certain quality checks
and supervision roles which a human
mind can do best as compared to a
robot. The human robot collabora-
tion ensures that the high precision,
repetitive and heavy lifting jobs are
taken care by UR cobots so that the
labour can concentrate on high skilled
and higher remuneration jobs. Hence
it’s not the question of cheap labour
any more it’s the question of qual-
ity, efficiency and higher productivity
which can only be achieved through
human robot collaboration.
“
”
Suzuki Suitings Private Limited
Suzuki Suitings pvt ltd
62, shreeji cloth market, sarangpur, Ahmedabad-380002
Arun parasrampuria :+919825320391 | Bhavna Parasrampuria :+919327080600
Email: bhavnaparasrampuria@gmail.com
Manufacturers of all kinds of Suitings.
Exporters of Polyestor viscose , cotton , poly wool , wool,and all kinds of dyed cotton fabric, corduroy Suitings
INTERVIEW
27
www.textilevaluechain.comJune 2017
GLOBAL FOCUS
One Belt – One Road: China’s big initiative creating massive
business opportunities
I
n 2013, China announced One Belt
One Road (OBOR) – an initiative
that could potentially reshape the
world order. OBOR comprises a land-
based “Silk Road Economic Belt” and
an oceangoing “Maritime Silk Road.”
The “Belt” is an infrastructure net-
work of transport, energy and com-
munication projects stretching from
Xi’an in China through Central Asia to
Moscow, Rotterdam and Venice. The
“Road” is its maritime equivalent, a
network of planned ports and other
coastal infrastructure from South and
Southeast Asia to East Africa and the
northern Mediterranean Sea.
Over the last three years, the OBOR
initiative has gathered significant mo-
mentum but its underlying concept,
scope and framework remain fluid.
Understanding these as well as the
associated business challenges and
opportunities were the objectives of
the discovery.
China is the world’s first or second
largest economy, the third largest
global investor, and the largest and
third largest trader of goods and ser-
vices, respectively. However, its eco-
nomic growth in 2015 stood at 6.9%,
the slowest it has been in a quarter of
a century. Lu Xiankun indicated that
for many years a GDP growth rate
of 8% was almost like a “holy num-
ber” for the Chinese government.
Anything below that was alarming.
It meant serious problems in many
aspects, particularly employment.
But now, people are already talking
about a growth of below 7%. Mean-
while, China is confronted by myriad
internal challenges – a regional de-
velopment gap between coastal and
central/western regions, many peo-
ple still living below the poverty line,
massive migration from countryside
to cities, serious industrial overcapac-
ity and employment challenges for
young graduates. The OBOR initiative
could be the answer to some of these
issues.
The Rationale
OBOR is the most important thrust
of China’s opening-up and develop-
mental strategy (both internally and
externally) since its accession to the
WTO in 2001. China has been look-
ing to the WTO for trade liberalization
reforms but, with the seeming failure
of the Doha round, the WTO remains
embroiled in a deadlock. The reason
for the deadlock, Marion Jansen ex-
plained, is that the US and EU want to
execute deals that are more compli-
cated, including issues such as stand-
ards and regulations on labor, compe-
tition, investment, and environment,
i.e. those that are not priorities for
the developing countries. For this
reason, the major industrial powers
– EU, Canada, US, Japan – have opted
for “mega regional” deals to cover is-
sues that they want to resolve. Faced
with slowing growth, China cannot
wait for the WTO to take action. Since
infrastructure is not typically part of
the trade agreements negotiated by
the WTO, China has moved on with
the OBOR initiative, which focuses on
infrastructure as a key pillar.
Perceptions about OBOR
The international community is still
struggling to understand the gist and
impact of OBOR since China has dif-
ficulty in explaining its intentions. Ini-
tially, OBOR was referred to as “Chi-
na’s Marshall Plan” by some Western
media and more recently it has been
seen as a countermeasure to the US-
led Trans Pacific Partnership (TPP)
and pivot to Asia. Lu explained that
China is presenting OBOR as an open
instrument developed in a multipolar
world that seeks market-driven col-
laboration with 65 countries, and is
even open to countries that are not
situated along the OBOR. A case in
point is Switzerland. China wants to
avoid the impression that it is sinking
its dragon claws into other countries.
Instead, it is trying to find synergies
with existing programs in these coun-
tries. Projects will come incrementally
and will beadapted differently to the
local aspirations of diverse coun-
tries. Unlike the TPP or other WTO
agreements thatare often based on
hardand strict rules, OBOR is infor-
mal, cooperative and loosely struc-
tured with a soft approach to rules
and boundaries. Shuaihua Cheng
drew an analogy, “the OBOR policy is
similar to Tai Chi rather than Ameri-
can kickboxing. Or like Uber, which
www.textilevaluechain.com
28 June 2017
works on a model of open sourcing
and businessvia collaboration.”
Marion concurred that OBOR’s ap-
proach is indeed inclusive as she
compared the countries covered by
both TPP and OBOR. TPP countries –
which do not include Indonesia, India
and China – are all relatively similar
with high GDP per capita (with the ex-
ception of Vietnam), whereas OBOR
countries are way more diverse. She
stated, “If OBOR only achieves half of
what it intends to do, it could be very
powerful.”
Shuaihua made the point that the TPP
does have a negative trade impact on
China by preventing access to prefer-
ential markets and tariff reductions.
Of course, trade and manufacturing
will be divertedto TPP members, for
example to lowcost Vietnam. Further-
more, US President Barack Obama
has openly stated, “The US, not China,
should write the rules of the global
economy” to which China’s ministry
of foreign affairs responded that no
single country should write the rules
of global trade. Shuaihua feels there-
fore that OBOR is clearly a measure
to circumvent the US. Jean Pierre, for
his part, sees it as an alternative to
TPP.
Opportunities
OBOR may create travel opportunity
of 100 billion dollar annually and
huge boost to tours, travels & hospi-
tality industry.
OBOR presents for China is that it will
open new markets, which will help
to resolve issues of domestic overca-
pacity. Moreover, the infrastructure
thrust will reduce trade costs through
central Asia and shift competitive-
ness inland. As the land corridors are
set to run along the major Eurasian
countries, through China-Mongolia-
Russia, China-Central and West Asia,
China-Indochina Peninsula, China-
Pakistan, Bangladesh-China-India-
Myanmar, it will also enable the inte-
gration of inland and coastal China,
bringing growth and stability to the
region. An example upheld as a sym-
bol of success for OBOR, the Trans-
Eurasia Chongqing-Xinjiang-Europe
international railway route, which
starts in Chongqing and ends 11,179
km later (following 16 days of travel)
in Duisburg, Germany, is currently be-
ing used by companies like BMW and
HP.
China needs more such infrastruc-
ture projects to sustain its economic
growth and to support important
domestic industries. In fact, Marc La-
perrouza senses a kind of despera-
tion among Chinese businesses and
government agencies to find new
projects/acquisitions on technology
and infrastructure. He feels that the
country is currently obsessed with in-
novation. In fact, in southern China
large-scale low-cost manufacturing
is transforming into design houses in
an effort to move up the value chain.
China wants to move beyond its tra-
ditional role of exchanging infrastruc-
ture against natural resources, as in
the case of its investments in Africa.
By progressing with OBOR, it will take
projects coupled with financing mech-
anisms to countries lacking in infra-
structure, such as
Indonesia or the
Philippines. This
will, in turn, al-
low China to offer
its products and
services to these
countries in the
longer term. Be-
yond hard infra-
structure, Marc
sees the potential
for China to ex-
port standards for the very first time.
China has been intensifying its ef-
forts to set indigenous standards for
homegrown ultrahigh voltage (UHV)
transmission technology and aims to
contribute to UHV standards inter-
nationally. Two factors are creating
a window of opportunity for Chinese
UHV technologies to gain acceptance
as the de facto global standard: (1) It
is the only country currently deploy-
ing UHV technology on a large scale
and (2) No international UHV stand-
ard has yet prevailed.
While OBOR signals a new phase in
China’s globalization process, what
about soft infrastructure? Despite
all its success, China lacks attractive-
ness and battles inferior quality per-
ceptions. According to Marc, out of 7
million annual university graduates,
there are 700,000 engineers but only
a fraction of them are world-class.
This situation could give rise to funda-
mental questions about quality and
security for key strategic assets, for
example as the UK’s next generation
of nuclear power plants will be built in
collaboration with China Guangdong
Nuclear Power Group. Marc won-
ders if China’s infrastructure-driven
hard power can translate into win-
ning soft power. “Exporting the local
advantage sounds good on paper but
what about the ground reality of the
specific OBOR countries? It was an
African honeymoon for China until a
few years ago but now the situation is
growing tense.”
Ultimately, China wants better return
on investment. While it is the biggest
holder of US debt, it is also looking to
invest elsewhere to not only enhance
its returns but also to win friends in
the process. Evidently, with OBOR the
investment preference (e.g. M&A, EPC
projects) will shift toward developing
countries where priorities are power,
transport infrastructure, telecommu-
nication and water. The next open
question is whether there is an actual
business case for OBOR investments
and whether it can bring sufficient
returns.
GLOBAL FOCUS
29
www.textilevaluechain.comJune 2017
Funding
OBOR is expected to stimulate a mas-
sive trillion dollar market, much larg-
er than China’s domestic one. The to-
tal investment needed in the relevant
areas is about $5 trillion over the next
five years while infrastructure de-
mand in Southeast Asia stands at $2.5
trillion over the next 10 years. Infra-
structure projects of such magnitude
will create the need for equally strong
funding.
For this reason, China has taken the
lead in establishing the Asia Infra-
structure Investment Bank (AIIB) with
57 founding members and a capital
of $100 billion. Despite opposition
from Washington, US allies including
Australia, Britain, Germany, Italy, the
Philippines and South Korea have all
joined the AIIB, which is clearly seen
as a huge political success for China.
It is evident that Beijing-based AIIB
allows China more independence
from the American finance system.
Capital will be also be made available
through the Silk Road Fund ($40 bil-
lion), BRICS Development Bank ($100
billion) and a recapitalization of oth-
er Chinese banks. However, China’s
state funding will only provide 15%,
just a fraction, of the developing mar-
ket infrastructure demand.
European companies wants role in
the OBOR projects. How can we bid to
form part of a consortium, for exam-
ple, in Indonesia? How willing are we
to go in there and risk losing IP?” Chi-
na has to define projects with tangible
outcomes and governance elements.
Only then will it attract international
private equity or sovereign funds that
see OBOR as the right place for their
investments. He highlighted the op-
portunities for European companies
arising from OBOR:
• Outbound capital projects in part-
nership with Chinese players, through
the supply of equipment, technology
or intellectual property.
• “Europe eastward” strategy, allow-
ing access to developing market gov-
ernments and new clients through
OBOR projects.
• Leverage Chinese partnerships in
OBOR countries to access the Chi-
nese market.
• Outbound financing/private equity
fund.
To leverage the above-mentioned op-
portunities, the Silk Road Chamber
of International Commerce, headed
by Jean- Guy Carrier, was launched
in Hong Kong in December 2015.
With the participation of nearly 100
international, regional and national
chambers of commerce, its objective
is to put international business at the
heart of the OBOR initiatives by con-
necting businesses, governments and
investors, ramifications of OBOR will
encourage progress even in difficult
areas such as Iran; a country that is
seen as a problem suddenly starts
to become a part of the solution. A
strong business community in Iran
that has long been in isolation is keen
to reconnect. The OBOR strategy is
being invented on the go. It is a 21st
century big idea – probably the big-
gest idea floated in the last 10 years
– and it is being implemented in a Chi-
nese manner. You cross the river by
feeling the stones. It may not sound
very satisfying strategically but that is
what is being applied.
Key Risks
When all is said and done, signifi-
cant risks – political, economic and
operational – have to be considered.
Given that OBOR remains intention-
ally amorphous and at an early stage
of implementation, the biggest stum-
bling block is lack of information and
clarity. Furthermore, infrastructure
projects require large-scale invest-
ment, high standards of management
and involve long operating cycles, all
of which mean great uncertainty in
project profitability. Operational risks
are also exacerbated by diverse le-
gal and regulatory systems in OBOR
countries. The current world econ-
omy is still unstable, and changes in
macro-economic industry and market
environment will have an impact on
crossborder investment. Jean-Pierre
closed the discussion by reiterating
the greatest risk – geopolitics. The
OBOR canvas is spread over the
world’s most vibrant region which
is also the most combustible. Asia’s
balance of power remains fragile
given China’s disputes with many of
its neighbors, especially in the South
China Sea. China’s challenge is to
achieve a peaceful rise, for which his-
torically there is no precedent.
GLOBAL FOCUS
Mr. Arvind Sinha
CEO - Business Advisors Group
Cell No. 9820062612
Email ID: lionasinha@gmail.com
Life is like a game of cards. The hand you are dealt is
determinism the way you play it is free will.
Jawaharlal Nehru
“
”
www.textilevaluechain.com
30 June 2017
TVC: What is your inspiration for
starting the company? Motivation-
al factor
Resil Chemicals was established by
two aspiring entrepreneurs, Mr. M.
S. Vijayan and Mr. M. S. Mohan. Our
interest in innovation was fuelled by
the exponential growth of the Textile
Chemical and Auxiliary market glob-
ally.
From where idea generated? What is
the thought process behind it? How it
all began?
Resil was a pioneer for silicones in
textiles. We were the first to sup-
ply the full range of textile finish-
ing and auxiliary chemicals and also
are the manufacturers of custom-
ized silicones for textiles. Since then
We have become
one of the Asia’s
largest formulators
of customized sili-
cones.
Silicone as a chemical substance has
a wide variety of applications due to
its chemical nature, making them ide-
al for catering to the Textile industry.
While in the past manufacturers used
silicones in lower quantities due to its
relatively “high price”, today silicones
are widely accepted and are seen as
an indispensable entity.
Started as a small manufacturing unit
in 1994 with just 5 employees, today
Resil is a 300+ member organization
with 4 internationally certified manu-
facturing facilities with over 20,000
metric tons of specialty chemical pro-
duction per year. Resil now exports
to more than 10 countries and has
diversified into emerging technology
based products such as hand sanitiz-
ers, disinfectants, and automotive de-
tailing products.
TVC: What Challenges & Struggle
you have faced?
Accumulating finances for the
company was one of the major
challenges. Running a private limit-
ed company requires an adequate
and regular flow of funds for its
efficient functioning. Proper man-
agement of capital is essential to a
company’s fundamental financial
health and operational success.
In the chemical industry, capital
serves as a metric for smooth busi-
ness operations. Finding out new
products which enhance the qual-
ity, improving existing processes
for making chemicals in order to
use less capital expenditure and
raw materials, finding methods of
manufacturing that use and dis-
pose of chemicals which do not
harm the environment requires
a huge investment of funds to run
the system. There is a basic rule that
is been followed in the chemical in-
dustry in terms of production, invest
huge capital to make a big plant so
that there is less overhead and the
product can be more produced more
cheaply on the large scale.
Apart from the capital, maintaining
the norms in terms of global environ-
ment regulations is one of the hectic
tasks. Global regulatory involves a
broad range of regulatory initiatives
that relate to the social, environmen-
tal and human rights responsibilities.
Environment regulations have more
impact on business than the econo-
my. The increased import of various
chemicals, intermediates and end
products, and reduced import tariff
by the government to meet the in-
creasing demand of the country, has
intensified the level of competition
in the Indian chemical industry. The
competition has increased margin-
ally in the chemical industry in recent
times.
TVC: Product Specification : Unique
in Product / USP of Product
Textile Finishing
Combining the latest technology with
our innovative processes, we bring
the perfect finish. Whether it’s infus-
ing the smell of lavender into silk or
taming the denim’s toughness or
even helping white cotton retain their
brightness, Resil has a refreshing col-
lection of solutions to meet your eve-
ry need.
Textile Enzymes
Resil brings a comprehensive list of
value additions with our enzymes and
textile process enhancers. Enzymes
can alter the characteristics of almost
any textile, and provide amazing ben-
efits through their versatile nature.
Poised to transform the industry with
its applications, enzymes have defi-
nitely conquered unchartered territo-
ries in the textile industry.
Functional Finishes
Resil’s innovative performance finish
solutions enhance the personality
of your fabrics. From antimicrobial
and fragrance finishes to anti-age-
Exclusive Interview with Mr. M. S. Vijayan- Joint
Managing Director Resil Chemicals Pvt.Ltd.
INTERVIEW
in Product / USP of Product“
”
31
www.textilevaluechain.comJune 2017
ing, wrinkle-free, stain repellent and
moisture management solutions, Re-
sil offers finishes that serve a variety
of needs.
Textile Pre-treatment
Resil offers comprehensive solutions
for textiles such as wetting agents,
lubricants, sequestering agents, per-
oxide killers, fixing agents, levelling
agents and washing off agents.
Thread & Yarn Finishing
At Resil, we believe that only the
perfect thread or yarn makes a dif-
ference. This perfection is as much
a priority for us as excellence in fab-
ric finishing is. Right from aqueous
to antistatic, our finishes help make
your thread Soft, sturdy, durable and
comfortable.
ActigoTM - Laser Booster
Actigo™, from Resil Chemicals’ a pat-
ent protected technology enables
jeans manufacturers to move to
a new process that eliminates the
need for Potassium Permanganate
(PP) used for denim bleaching. The
technology acts only at the point of
laser interaction by creating a natu-
ral worn look with greater contrast
when in comparison with the harmful
PP spray garment finishes. Actigo™,
is highly effective on a variety of arti-
cles, including high stretch, dark and
light finishes.
N9 Pure SilverTM
N9 Pure Silver™, along with its variant
N9 Plastix™, is a family of silver-based
antibacterial and hygiene solutions.
It is based on a revolutionary Silver-
based technology that, on contact,
neutralizes odour-causing bacteria,
keeping the treated product fresher
for longer.
It is a finish that can be applied to fab-
rics or garments. This breakthrough
technology delivers outstanding
odour control performance, com-
bined with impeccable environmental
credentials and safety profile.
CoolitTM
Coolit™ is a sustainable cooling tech-
nology that responds dynamically to
body temperature and perspiration
keeping people cool even when on
the move. For cotton clothes, Coolit™
facilitates an endothermic reaction
that absorbs body heat, generating
a cooling effect of up to 3⁰C when in
contact with sweat and moisture leav-
ing the wearer feeling cool and com-
fortable.
NeuDriTM
NeuDri™ was developed as a dynamic
drying technology that rapidly wicks
perspiration from the skin and trans-
fers moisture to the fabric’s surface,
leaving the wearer dry, comfortable,
cool and confident. In addition to
evaporation, NeuDri™ has excellent
soil release, softening, and anti-static
properties that ensure your sports-
wear are not only comfortable but
also supple and functional.
SoladelTM
Clothes can now be enabled to clean
naturally which helps to reduce the
use of harsh chemicals. SoladelTM
uses the power of the sunlight to peel
off any kind of organic dirt, easing
the washing process, and preventing
your favourite clothes from getting
ruined. This textile treatment acts in
a manner similar to photosynthesis,
effectively breaking down organic dirt
molecules and releasing them from
the surface of the fabric.
SilaideTM
4The growth of microorganisms on
textiles can lead to functional, hygien-
ic and aesthetic difficulties. The use of
antimicrobial finishes to prevent un-
pleasant odours on intimate apparel,
underwear, sleepwear, socks, and
athletic wear is an important market
need. The odours are produced by
the bacterial decomposition of sweat
and other body fluids, and controlling
bacterial growth by SILAIDE™ finish-
ing eliminates this problem.
CylantTM
The growth of microorganisms on
textiles can lead to functional, hygien-
ic and aesthetic difficulties. The use of
antimicrobial finishes to prevent un-
pleasant odours on intimate apparel,
underwear, sleepwear, socks, and
athletic wear is an important market
need. The odours are produced by
the bacterial decomposition of sweat
and other body fluids, and controlling
bacterial growth by CYLANT™ finish-
ing eliminates this problem.
Purepel™
Textiles treated with Purepel™ offer
superior durable water repellence
and protection against water-based
stains. Applicable to cellulosic, syn-
thetics and blends. Maintains fabric
breathability, making them comfort-
able to wear.
Pricing Strategy : Premium
TVC: What is your product innova-
tion approach?
Resil has a dedicated in design team
working around the clock at our in-
house R&D centre. Our in- house
R&D has the state-of-the-art facility
to engage the team in innovative R&D
activities such as development of new
product/ technologies, design and en-
gineering, improvements in process/
product/ design, developing new
methods of analysis and testing, re-
search for increased efficiency in use
of resources such as capital equip-
ment, material and energy, pollution
control, effluent treatment and recy-
cling of waste products or any other
areas of research.
TVC: Market Focus: Domestic or
Export or both ( % of each in total
revenue)
Currently, we are working with vari-
ous Indian apparel brands, pan India.
We are also catering to some of the
brands in the Middle East, US & Eu-
ropean markets. The revenue gener-
ated by our textile segment can be
estimated to a percentage of 65% and
holds a 12% of shares in the Indian
textile finishing and auxiliary chemi-
cals.
TVC: How quality control is impor-
tant in Industry ?
Efficient quality control and accurate
planning are key factors in achieving
INTERVIEW
www.textilevaluechain.com
32 June 2017
of quality for the products or services
offered by companies in chemical in-
dustry. Quality control and planning
is of critical importance in the chemi-
cal industry as it is critical to know
exactly what chemicals, and of which
grades are moving through the plant
at any given time. The final outcome
of products depends on the quality
of chemicals used for manufacturing
and processing purpose. Variations
in the grade of chemicals being used
and supplied may have a significant
impact on overall plant performance.
It could also damage the plant or be
completely useless, resulting in seri-
ous wastage of resources and capital.
The control over the quality is impor-
tant to determine that the output be-
ing provided is of overall top quality.
Quality control is essential for com-
panies and industriesfor liability pur-
poses, name recognition or branding,
a positioning against the competition
in the industry.
TVC: Importance of sustainability,
recycling and reuse
In today’s time recycling is vital be-
cause it not only saves businesses
money but also create sustainability.
Sustainability involves acting on how
to ensure the continued survival, in-
deed prosperity, of a business or in-
dustry – indefinitely.In the millennium
world, consumers perception of eco-
friendly products, pressure groups
and industries to promote sustain-
ability, and therefore recycling. Re-
cycling affects the chemical industry
by providing business opportunities
of getting profiting from recapturing
the value of waste chemicals, both
post-production and post-consumer.
It also gives business opportunities
for cost avoidance through the safe
disposal of waste products. Recycling
primarily reduces the net consump-
tion of certain chemical inputs to
manufacturing by returning recycled
materials to the value chain.The in-
dustries are focusing more towards
the Green chemistry also known as
the sustainable chemistry. Green
chemistry is the area of chemistry
and chemical engineering is focused
on the designing of products and
processes that minimize the use and
generation of hazardous substances.
Green chemistry focuses on techno-
logical approaches to preventing pol-
lution and reducing consumption of
nonrenewable resources. Companies
in the industry are focusing on pre-
venting waste than to treat or clean
up waste after it is formed, as it also
helps in cost cutting.
TVC: Major Challenges in Industry
The chemical industry today is facing
numerous challenges such as avail-
ability of raw materials, infrastructure
& environment, duty structures, man-
power etc. Location of Indian bulk
chemical industry in the West coast,
especially Gujarat, due to close prox-
imity of raw materials and ports re-
sults in high transportation cost and
distribution issues as majority of the
demand comes from the end-use in-
dustries located in the Southern and
Eastern regions. Availability of cheap-
er imported chemicals from low-cost
manufacturing hubs like China give a
major threat to Indian market. Lack of
skilled manpower is also one the ma-
jor issue faced by the industry.
TVC: View on chemical market in
India & overseas
Chemical industry in India one of the
diversified industry, covering around
more than 80,000 commercial prod-
ucts.India is the third largest pro-
ducer in Asia and sixth largest in the
world. It is the mainstay of industrial
and agricultural development of the
country and providing building blocks
for various downstream industries
such as textiles, papers, paints, soaps,
detergents, pharmaceuticals, auto-
motive products etc.With the high
significance of chemical industry in
Indian economy,industry is expected
to double its share in global chemi-
cal industry to 5-6% by 2021 regis-
tering growth of 8-9% in the com-
ing decade.Government recognizes
Chemical Industry as a key growth
element of Indian Economy and has
introduced several policy measures
in the Union Budget 2017-18 to pro-
vide impetus to the manufacturing
sector. The Chemicals Industry in In-
dia is the principal consumer of its
own products, consuming 33% of its
output. With promising development
slants in the Chemicals Industry, this
inward utilization is additionally set
to rise. With the continuous growth
and development, the leading chemi-
cal companies in India are investing
on expanding their operational ca-
pacity to meet ever growing chemical
exports demand in India and abroad,
attracting leading players from the
international circuit to invest in India
and become world’s top producer of
chemicals. The two top countries that
have been the major destinations for
chemical exports from India for past
several years include U.S.A and China.
TVC: Company’s Business Strate-
gies & Future Planning
Started as a small manufacturing
unit in 1994 with just five employees,
to 300+ member organization, Resil
chemicals has out grown with four
internationally-certified manufactur-
ing facilities with a capacity of 20,000
metric tons per year, exporting to
more than 10 countries . It has also
diversified into emerging technology-
based products such as hand sani-
tizers, disinfectants and automotive
detailing products. Company has a
full-fledged sales operation in Bang-
ladesh and has made inroads into
Sri Lanka, Turkey, Philippines, UK
and Thailand, also looking at growing
worldwide with our innovative prod-
uct. To cover increasing demand, we
have has just opened the fourth and
largest state of the art unit at Malur,
Karnataka. We are a strong believer
in the India story and India will re-
main our prime focus for the coming
years.Resil Chemicals is a profession-
ally managed company, but the next
of gen has joined the company in var-
ious capacities.
INTERVIEW
June 2017
June 2017
June 2017
June 2017
June 2017
June 2017
June 2017
June 2017
June 2017
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June 2017
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June 2017
June 2017

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June 2017

  • 1. www.textilevaluechain.com TE TILEX VALUE CHAIN June 2017 Volume 5 Issue 6 Registered with Registrar of Newspapers under | RNI NO: MAHENG/2012/43707 Postal Registration No. MNE/346/2015-17 published on 5th of every month, TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN posted at Mumbai Patrika Channel Sorting Office,Pantnagar- 75, posting date 29/30 of month | Pages 56 Innovation in Textile Business 8 GST Views from different Market 8 Interview : Universal Robot & Resil Chemical 8 One belt- One Road : China’s Initiative
  • 6. www.textilevaluechain.com 6 June 2017 EDITORIAL Ms. Jigna Shah Editor & Publisher All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of any of the content from this issue is prohibited without explicit written permission of the publisher. Every effort has been made to ensure and present factual and accurate information. The views expressed in the articles published in this magazine are that of the respective authors and not necessarily that of the publisher. Textile Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely errors that might occur or any steps taken based in the information provided herewith. Registered Office Innovative Media and Information Co. 189/5263, Sanmati, Pantnagar, Ghatkopar (East), Mumbai 400075. Maharashtra, INDIA. Tel : +91-22-21026386 Cell: +91-9769442239 Email: info@textilevaluechain.com tvcmedia2012@gmail.com Web: www.textilevaluechain.com Owner, Publisher, Printer & Editor Ms. Jigna Shah Printed & Processed by her at, Impression Graphics, Gala no.13, Shivai Industrial Estate, Andheri Kurla Road, Sakinaka, Andheri (East), Mumbai 400072, Maharashtra, India. Any change is always revolted by people across the world, whether its new monetary system or new political party or new idea..!!! Change is the challenging the herd mindset of the peo- ple. Right now, Entire India buzzing around the new One Nation, One Tax system ie GST (Good & Service Tax). Textile being a minimum entry barrier industry & heritage based, majority of industry is domi- nated by MSME with fragmented cluster. New tax structure which has been implemented re- cently is good for organised sector that pays & receive commercial transaction by organised way ie by bank or organised channel. But majority of our Textile Sector do not follow organised chan- nel for commercial transaction without having any official books in income tax or any business tax. India being a part of global village, India Incorporation revenue structure should be at par with the global standard. So ruling government of India , decided to have new revenue system in which from grass root level to top level all included in the part of revenue of India. But, Non contributor or minimal contributor and unorganised sector are opposing new Revenue / Tax system of India. Now, being a part of Indian system, whether we like it or not, we need to pay revenue as per new ruling government. Ruling and past government given many benefits/ rebates to this industry to be self sufficient, but as industry still we are not mature enough to understand the importance given by government.” Textiles India 2017” trade exhibition, new initiative taken by Ministry of Textiles and GOI, tried to incorporate entire value chain contributors, from Cotton growers to Organised Retail / Fashion Designers, all are under one roof and I think they are partially suc- ceeded. In a global economy, we are not only contributor to Indian economy but also part of human com- munity. Every new change only happens for good. Let’s Welcome and enjoy new tax / revenue system with our open mindset. Wish you all productive business in new Tax System..!!! Welcoming New Revenue System of India Incorporation...!!!
  • 7. 7 www.textilevaluechain.comJune 2017 Textile Agent 317, Cosmos Platinum, 3rd Floor, Gokhale Road (south), Dadar (west),Mumbai – 400028. Ph:- 24301555/24361555/24371555 Email : - rmking555@gmail.com Parekh Agencies Parekh Associates Garment Agent 40,Bhangwadi Shopping Arcade, 1st Floor, Kalbadevi Road,Mumbai - 400 002, Maharashtra, INDIA Tel : +91-22-2201 1111 / 2205 5555 / 2207 3555 Email : txking555@gmail.com Mr. Shailesh Parekh - M: 9820055506 Mr. Ritesh Shah - M: 9320055506 / 9820629406 Mr. Arpit Jain - M: 9324488888 Mr. Ketan Dattani - M: 9820186888 Mr. Ashish Niwate - M: 9820456445 Mr. Rajan Parekh - M: 9930955506
  • 8. www.textilevaluechain.com 8 June 2017 OM 13–15September2017 MUST VISIT FOR techtextil-india.co.in To register for a visit contact: Sonam Kanal +91 22 6144 5913 sonam.kanal@india.messefrankfurt.com Nikita Pires +91 22 6144 5947 nikita.pires@india.messefrankfurt.com International Trade Fair for Technical Textiles and Nonwovens September techtextil-india.co.in September techtextil-india.co.in REGISTER TO VISIT Register Online!
  • 9. 9 www.textilevaluechain.comJune 2017 "Our customers benefit from our sustainable e-save solutions for the production of manmade fibers within growth markets like textile and apparel, infrastructure, transportation, food, energy and electronics. “ Georg Stausberg, CEO Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Segment From Melt to Yarn, Fibers and Nonwovens It all starts with a few chemicals. Transforming these into smart clothing, technical textiles or tire cord requires great ideas, outstanding equipment and sophisticated processes. Oerlikon Manmade Fibers engineers support you in ensuring that your entire project is a total success. We will accompany you on your journey from chemical product to manmade fibers. From engineering and polycondensation to spinning, texturing and nonwoven production. From Melt to Yarn, Fibers and Nonwovens. For further information visit us at www.oerlikon.com/manmade-fibers Follow us on Facebook! www.facebook.com/OerlikonBarmag www.facebook.com/OerlikonNeumag OMF Anzeige FMTY_Skyline-Mayson Chen Calendar Book-210x297-EN-2016-151020.indd 1 20.10.15 14:06
  • 10. www.textilevaluechain.com 12 June 2017 FABRIC | FASHION | APPAREL | ACCESSORIES MACHINERIES | HOME & MORE! UAE'S EXCLUSIVE SOURCING FAIR TEXTILE EXPORTS UAE 1 2 3 4 LEADING BUYING HOUSES UPCOMING TRENDS WHYIATF? Meet numerous skilled and high profile industry experts from the fashion industry in the region. UAE ranks as the 3rd largest country in terms of textile exports and is among the largest sector of the Middle East. Network and participate with leading buying houses all under one roof. IATF is also an annual forum wherein speakers from all around the world highlight upcoming trends through workshops, panel discussions and seminars. MEET INDUSTRY EXPERTS
  • 12. www.textilevaluechain.com 10 June 2017 Spinning Weaving Knitting Dyeing Printing Processing Embroidery Garment & More... Spinning Weaving Knitting Dyeing Printing Processing Embroidery Garment & More... Spinning Weaving Knitting Dyeing Printing Processing Embroidery Garment & More... Spinning Weaving Knitting Dyeing Printing Processing Embroidery Garment & More... Spinning Weaving Knitting Dyeing Printing Processing Embroidery Garment & More... Spinning Weaving Knitting Dyeing Printing Processing Embroidery Garment & More... Spinning Weaving Knitting Dyeing Printing Processing Embroidery Garment & More... Spinning Weaving Knitting Dyeing Printing Processing Embroidery Garment & More... Spinning Weaving Knitting Dyeing Printing Processing Embroidery Garment & More... Spinning Weaving Knitting Dyeing Printing Processing Embroidery Garment & More... Spinning Weaving Knitting Dyeing Printing Processing Embroidery Garment & More... Spinning Weaving Knitting Dyeing Printing Processing Embroidery Garment & More... Spinning Weaving Knitting Dyeing Printing Processing Embroidery Garment & More... Spinning Weaving Knitting Dyeing Printing Processing Embroidery Garment & More... Spinning Weaving Knitting Dyeing Printing Processing Embroidery Garment & More... Spinning Weaving Knitting Dyeing Printing Processing Embroidery Garment & More... Spinning Weaving Knitting Dyeing Printing Processing Embroidery Garment & More... Spinning Weaving Knitting Dyeing Printing Processing Embroidery Garment & More... Spinning Weaving Knitting Dyeing Printing Processing Embroidery Garment & More... Spinning Weaving Knitting Dyeing Printing Processing Embroidery Garment & More... Spinning Weaving Knitting Dyeing Printing Processing Embroidery Garment & More... Spinning Weaving Knitting Dyeing Printing Processing Embroidery Garment & More... Spinning Weaving Knitting Dyeing Printing Processing Embroidery Garment & More... Spinning Weaving Knitting Dyeing Printing Processing Embroidery Garment & More... December 201707 08 09 10 & ACCESSORIES EXHIBITION TEXTILE MACHINERY 2nd INTERNATIONAL Venue: The Exhibition Centre, Gandhinagar, Gujarat, India Organisers Media Partners GS A Spinning Weaving Knitting Dyeing Printing Processing Embroidery Garment & More... Spinning Weaving Knitting Dyeing Printing Processing Embroidery Garment & More... Spinning Weaving Knitting Dyeing Printing Processing Embroidery Garment & More... Spinning Weaving Knitting Dyeing Printing Processing Embroidery Garment & More... Spinning Weaving Knitting Dyeing Printing Processing Embroidery Garment & More... Spinning Weaving Knitting Dyeing Printing Processing Embroidery Garment & More... Spinning Weaving Knitting Dyeing Printing Processing Embroidery Garment & More... Spinning Weaving Knitting Dyeing Printing Processing Embroidery Garment & More... Spinning Weaving Knitting Dyeing Printing Processing Embroidery Garment & More... Spinning Weaving Knitting Dyeing Printing Processing Embroidery Garment & More... Spinning Weaving Knitting Dyeing Printing Processing Embroidery Garment & More... Arvind Semlani | +91 9833977743 | info@itmach.com | +91 9426012207 | bhadresh@kdclglobal.comBhadresh Mistry | +91 9867127598 | radhika@textileexcellence.comRadhika Boddu | +91 9375322449 | allgujaratspinnersassociation@gmail.comBhavesh Thakar Supporting Partners
  • 13. 13 www.textilevaluechain.comJune 2017 June 2017 ISSUE CONTENT Advertiser Index Back Page: Raymond Back Inside : Boalamo Front Inside : Raysil Page 3: Premier Fabric Page 4: Varney Fabric Page 5: SGS Innovation Page 7: Parekh Agencies Page 8: Techtexil India Page 9: Oerlikon Page 10: IATF Page 11: RSWM Page 12: ITMACH India Page 15: Amith Garment Page 24: Keny Fabrics Page 26: Suzuki Suitings Page 45: Tuff Plast Page 46: Deep Textiles Page 47: MBR Group Page 48: Sanjay Plastic Page 49: ITES Page 50: SKBS Page 51: Hari Fashions Page 52: Garmek Panipat Page 53: Texfair 2017 Page 54: SGS Silk Mills 14 & 44 NEWS COVER STORY: Innovation in Textile Business 16- Disruptive Innovation – Approach for Today’s busi- nesses by Mr. Rushin Vadhani 18- Hagfish Slime threads by DKTE Professors 20- Solid State Polymerization and Enhancing Crystal- linity and molecular weight to improve tensile property of polyester yarn by Mr. Digmber Chavan & Mr. P. V. Kadole 22- Chanderi Weaving- An Exclusive art of India by pro- fessors of SVVV, Indore INTERVIEW 25- Mr. Pradeep David, GM of Universal Robots, India & Sri Lanka 30- Mr. M.S. Vijayan, Joint MD of Resil Chemicals GLOBAL FOCUS 27- One belt – One Road: China’s big initiative creating massive business opportunities by Mr. Arvind Sinha SHOW REPORT 33- Technotex India 2017 34- HGH India 2017 MARKET REPORT 35- Yarn Report GST REVIEW 38- by Mr. Aleem Faizee, Malegaon 40- Surat Report 41- Views from Mumbai Wholesale Market 42- SHOW CALENDAR EDITORIAL TEAM Editor & Publisher Ms. Jigna Shah Consulting Editor Mr. Avinash Mayekar Graphic Designer Mr. Anant A. Jogale Sales Manager Mr. Md. Tanweer Editorial Assistant Mrs. Namsha T. INDUSTRY Mr. Devchand Chheda City Editor - Vyapar ( Janmabhumi Group) Mr. Manohar Samuel President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries Dr. M. K. Talukdar VP, Kusumgar Corporates Mr. Shailendra Pandey VP (Head – Sales and Marketing), Indian Rayon Mr. Ajay Sharma GM RSWM (LNJ Bhilwara Group) EDUCATION / RESEARCH Mr. B.V. Doctor HOD knitting, SASMIRA Dr. Ela Dedhia Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College Dr. Mangesh D. Teli Professor, Dean ICT Dr. S.K. Chattopadhyay Principal Scientist & Head MPD Dr. Rajan Nachane Retired Scientist, CIRCOT Delhi Representative office : Mr. Sudhir Verma Knit Experts 242, Pocket 3, Sector 23, Near Max Fort School, Rohini, New Delhi- 110085 Email : knitexperts@rediffmail.com Tel : +91-9818026572 S R ry . of of rs
  • 14. www.textilevaluechain.com 14 June 2017 Ingersoll Rand launches Next Generation R-Series Rotary Screw Air Compressors in India I ngersoll Rand®, a global leader in compression technologies and services, today introduced new- models to itsline of Next Generation R-Series oil-flooded rotary screw air compressors,whichprovide a more energy-efficient solution for custom- ers with high capacity air require- ments.The RS200 to RS250 models rotary screw air compressor will re- duce energy cost by approximately 10% for large manufacturing facilities. TheRS200 to RS250 modelsareavail- able withthe new, state-of-the-art single-stage airend, or the two-stage airendthat increases airflow by up to 16 percent. The new fixed-speed modelsare10 percent more efficient compared tolegacy products, while the variable speed option is up to 35 percent more efficient compared to the industry average. Commenting on the launch, Amar Kaul, Chairman and Managing Direc- tor, Ingersoll Rand India Limited said, “Around the world, businesses turn to Ingersoll Rand to redefine reliability and efficiency. The next generation R- series will help our customers do just that by delivering world class efficien- cy, increase uptime and deliver the right solution for operational excel- lence. The new series will enable our customers in India to be more com- petitive in the global environment by boosting their productivity with a state of the art airend that delivers as much as 15% improved efficiency and 16% greater airflow capacity. The IE3 premium efficiency motor will help deliver significant energy sav- ings and the optional variable speed drive (VSD) will further decrease ener- gy demands. With the launch of next generation R-Series, we continue to push the edge of innovation to help our customers achieve real business results, including cost reductions and lower total cost of ownership.” “The ability for these compressors to deliver outstanding efficiency with- out compromising reliability meets the increasing demands of industries to increase productivity while reduc- ing energy use,” saidKevin Kosobud, Portfolio Leader, Oil Flooded Com- pressors for Compression Technolo- gies and Services at Ingersoll Rand. “Our Next-Generation R-Series RS200 to RS250modelshelp customers in- crease overall system reliability and decrease their total cost of ownership with new state-of-the-art features and performance enhancements that save them tens of thousands of rupees.” Ingersoll Rand has added these mod- els to the Next Generation R-Series portfolio allowing customers who run 24/7 and rely on large amounts of compressed air tohave equipment that is as reliable as their demand. Ac- cordingtointernal testing, efficiency and design improvements on some of the high capacity compressorsde- liver up toINR 23.4 Lakhs energy cost savings over a two-year periodper- compressor compared to previous models . At the core of every Ingersoll Rand Next Generation R-Series compres- sor is an airend that is specifically de- signed to improve overall system ef- ficiency. In addition to the enhanced single-stage airend, the RS200 to RS250 models arealso available with the newtwo-stage airend. This two- stage airend is the most efficient airend available today. Each compressor comes standard with Progressive Adaptive Control (PAC) Protection, VShieldTM technolo- gy, floating coolers and Ultra Coolant. These featureshelp keep equipment running efficiently and maximize up- time for facilities that are manufac- turing around the clock. y PAC Protectionis a unique algo- rithm developed by Ingersoll Rand and is integrated in the controls system within each compressor. The system monitors key perfor- mance parameters for when con- sumable partsare nearing the end of their life,or if operating temper- atures are reachingdesign limits. In these situations, the controls adjust the parameters to keep the machine running without over- loading the motor, preventing un- necessary shutdown. y V-Shield technology safeguards all critical fittings by securing them with o-ring face seals in a method that is largely free from distor- tion. Leaks are virtually eliminated, meaning performance isn’t sacri- ficed, regardless of how many re- connections are made. y The floating cooling system from Ingersoll Randcontains heat ex- changerswith finger-tight connec- tionsso they can expand and con- tract as needed. This new design improves overall system reliability, because welded connections re- duce the ability for heat exchang- ers to expand and contract, which is the number one reason they fail. y Ultra Coolant is formulated to last up to 8,000 hours, which is twice as long as other rotary lubricants. Ultra Coolant keeps compressors running at peak performance, minimizing downtime and lower- ing lifecycle costs. y All Next Generation R-Series air compressors are equipped with Xe-series controllers, which allow easy,intuitive access to, and con- trol of, the compressed air system. NEWS
  • 15. 15 www.textilevaluechain.comJune 2017 Indian Textile Industry Aims to Reach US$650 Billion by 2025 Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University, USA Indian Prime Minister sets the goal for In- dian textiles sector to reach US$650 billion by 2025. Mr. Narendra Modi, Honor- able Prime Min- ister of India, while inaugurat- ing India’s larg- est ever textile meet, Textiles India-2017 on June 30th in Gandhinagar, Gujarat, India heralded the strength and capacity of the Indian textile industry. Speaking extemporaneously in Hindi and English thrilled a large audience in Mahatma Mandir, Gandhinagar with statistics about India’s textile industry and outlining the opportunities for the sector. Using a slogan, “farm to foreign,” the Honourable Prime Minister, emphasized the need for increasing the exports to reach the target of US$ 650 billion by 2025. Speed, scale and quality are necessitates for Indian tex- tiles to compete against countries like China, said the Prime Minister. Innovation and research are needed to meet the demands of consumers in other countries as culture, life style and fashion trends are different. He also emphasized some specific areas such as organic dyes, which need attention. This scribe was in the audience while the Prime Minister was delivering the inaugural address at the mega textile event that had over 1000 exhibitors and 15,000 registered buyers/delegates from many different countries. Ministry of Textiles, Government of India organized the 3-day event, which attracted a large technical audience and general public. NEWS
  • 16. www.textilevaluechain.com 16 June 2017 COVER STORY Disruptive Innovation – Approach for today’s Businesses Today’s business world is ex- tremely saturated. Pick any niche and you’ll see multiple companies fighting each other for dominance. When the mar- kets are so competitive, a busi- ness needs to do something really unique to stand out. It needs to innovate, understand its potential customers, and ca- ter to their wants even before they realise them; it needs to disrupt the market. And this sort of thinking isn’t anything new. Companies have been do- ing it for years without the fancy tag attached to it. They thought outside the box and they broke the rules; and in doing so, they cre- ated a unique and unassailable posi- tion for themselves in the market and in their customer’s lives. A disruptive innovation is an innova- tion that creates a new market and value network and eventually dis- rupts an existing market and value network, displacing established mar- ket leading firms, products and al- liances. The term was defined and phenomenon analyzed by Clayton M. Christensen and coworkers begin- ning in 1995. Since the early 2000s, “significant societal impact” has also been viewed as an aspect of disrup- tive innovation. Disruptive innovations tend to be produced by outsiders and entrepre- neurs, rather than existing market- leading companies. The business environment of market leaders does not allow them to pursue disruptive innovations when they first arise, be- cause they are not profitable enough at first and because their develop- ment can take scarce resources away from sustaining innovations (which are needed to compete against cur- rent competition). A disruptive pro- cess can take longer to develop than by the conventional approach and the risk associated to it is higher than the other more incremental or evolution- ary forms of innovations, but once it is deployed in the market, it achieves a much faster penetration and higher degree of impact on the established markets. What they have shown is that good firms are usually aware of the inno- vations, but their business environ- ment does not allow them to pursue them when they first arise, because they are not profitable enough at first and because their development can take scarce resources away from that of sustaining innovations (which are needed to compete against current competition). In Christensen’s terms, a firm’s existing value networks place insufficient value on the disruptive innovation to allow its pursuit by that firm. Meanwhile, start-up firms inhabit different value networks, at least until the day that their disrup- tive innovation is able to invade the older value network. At that time, the established firm in that network can at best only fend off the market share attack with a me-too entry, for which survival (not thriving) is the only re- ward. Metamorphosis of Mass Apparel Textile Business Model: The US apparel market is to a large extent a mass retail market. The ma- jor resellers are – with very few excep- tions – in total control of the various sales channels and ‘brand spirit’ is not very relevant. In recent years US fash- ion firms set out along a path of total – or almost total – subcontracting of their design and production processes. Many of them simply surrendered control of their own brand and lost the means to dif- ferentiate themselves clearly from the competition. These companies are now aware of the problem and have recently started to backtrack fast, with a return to designing on home soil and manufacturing, if not at home, then at least in neigh- bouring countries such as Mexico. What’s important for these US ap- parel companies is to find a way of re-vitalizing their brand image. In Europe, fashion markets vary enormously from one country to another. In France and Italy, for exam- ple, fashion brands, especially luxury fashion brands, have never looked healthier. They’re benefiting from strong consumer demand in emerg- ing countries, as they serve as a social marker for these populations. These days we see that, whatever the geo- graphical market, the differentiator in most cases lies in the development and impact of the brand. So the busi- ness models have moved towards a focus on brand value. Innovating in activities: From effi- cient to intelligent One of the most dominant beliefs governing today’s big companies is that improving efficiency is the most reliable way to increase profits. Espe- cially if market requirements change only gradually, companies have plen- ty of time to minimize the produc- tion costs of their existing products. Today, of course, constant efficiency improvements are a prerequisite for a healthy bottom line. They may be necessary, but they’re not sufficient. In today’s rapidly changing markets, many products become obsolete before they have been “leaned out,” so managers get less time to optimize production pro- cesses fully. Companies are therefore building flexibility and embedded in- telligence directly into the production
  • 17. 17 www.textilevaluechain.comJune 2017 COVER STORY process to help them adapt quickly to changing needs. Embedded intelli- gence can, over time, help companies to improve both the performance and the value-in-use of products and services and thus to improve their pricing. In essence, digitization is em- powering businesses to go beyond efficiency, to create learning systems that work harder and smarter. Disruptive innovations don’t catch on with mainstream customers until quality catches up to their standards. Disruption theory differentiates dis- ruptive innovations from what are called “sustaining innovations.” The latter make good products better in the eyes of an incumbent’s existing customers: the fifth blade in a razor, the clearer TV picture, better mobile phone reception. These improve- ments can be incremental advances or major breakthroughs, but they all enable firms to sell more products to their most profitable customers. Apple iPod and iPad Apple is the best and foremost ex- ample of disrupting the market and creating a new one while doing so. The company changed the way we listened to music with the iPod when the rest of the world was hooked on Sony’s Discman. They did the same for tablets with the iPad when every- one was clamouring for smartphones. By releasing niche products time and again, Apple established itself as the foremost brand in a market that they had created. And this was all because of Steve Jobs’ idea of innovation which revolved around his tenet: “A lot of times, people don’t know what they want until you show it to them.” 1. Disruption is a process. Most every innovation—disruptive or not—begins life as a small-scale experiment. Disrupters tend to fo- cus on getting the business model, rather than merely the product, just right. When they succeed, their move- ment from the fringe (the low end of the market or a new market) to the mainstream erodes first the incum- bents’ market share and then their profitability. This process can take time, and incumbents can get quite creative in the defense of their estab- lished franchises. For example, more than 50 years after the first discount department store was opened, main- stream retail companies still operate their traditional department-store formats. Complete substitution, if it comes at all, may take decades, be- cause the incremental profit from staying with the old model for one more year trumps proposals to write off the assets in one . 2. Some disruptive innovations succeed; some don’t. A common mistake is to focus on the results achieved—to claim that a company is disruptive by virtue of its success. But success is not built into the definition of disruption: Not every disruptive path leads to a triumph, and not every triumphant newcomer follows a disruptive path. If we call every business success a “disruption,” then companies that rise to the top in very different ways will be seen as sources of insight into a common strategy for succeeding. This creates a danger: Managers may mix and match behaviors that are very likely inconsistent with one an- other and thus unlikely to yield the hoped-for result. For example, both Uber and Apple’s iPhone owe their success to a platform-based model: Uber digitally connects riders with drivers; the iPhone connects app de- velopers with phone users. 3. The mantra “Disrupt or be dis- rupted” can misguide us. Incumbent companies do need to respond to disruption if it’s occur- ring, but they should not overreact by dismantling a still-profitable busi- ness. Instead, they should continue to strengthen relationships with core customers by investing in sustaining innovations. In addition, they can cre- ate a new division focused solely on the growth opportunities that arise from the disruption. Of course, as the disruptive stand-alone business grows, it may eventually steal cus- tomers from the core. But corporate leaders should not try to solve this problem before it is a problem. Disruption theory does not, and nev- er will, explain everything about inno- vation specifically or business success generally. Far too many other forces are in play, each of which will reward further study. Integrating them all into a comprehensive theory of busi- ness success is an ambitious goal, one we are unlikely to attain anytime soon. Key References : www.knowledge.instead.edu www.hbr.org • https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/disruptive business model • www.managementstudyguide.com • http://www.claytonchristensen.com/ key-concepts • http://www.mckinsey.com/busi- n e s s - f u n c t i o n s / s t r a t e g y - a n d - corporate-finance/our-insights/ disrupting-beliefs-a-new-approach-to- business-model-innovation Rushin H.Vadhani AGM-Marketing AYM Syntex Ltd. (Formerly Welspun Syntex Ltd.) Rushin H.Vadhani
  • 18. www.textilevaluechain.com 18 June 2017 “Hagfish Slime Threads” M ucins and protein threads are the two major important parts of hagfish slime pro- duced from slime glands. Hagfish re- lease slime in different amounts, de- pending on the circumstances. They produce slime in small amounts while feeding on a carcass, a behaviour that might be designed to ward off other scavengers. Hagfish slime threads, which make the fibrous component of the defensive slime of hagfishes, it consist of primarily proteins from the intermediate filament family of proteins and possess impressive me- chanical properties that make them attractive biomimetic models. The hagfish slime threads are tapered at both ends, and the hagfish slime threads have high performance prop- erties that’s hagfish slime can be a re- source for tomorrow’s natural fabric. Hagfish slime protein thread is 100 times thinner than the average hu- man hair. The slime contains tens of thou- sands of 1−3 μm diameter threads composed of proteins from the “in- termediate filaments” family of pro- teins (IFs). IFs are ubiquitous 10 nm cytoskeletal elements found in most metazoan cells and also make up the fibrous component in mammalian α- keratins. The primary structure of IF proteins is a tripartite molecular or- ganization with a central α-helical rod domain flanked by non-α-helical head and tail domains. Slime threads and their constituent IFs possess a number of attractive properties that make them promising biomimetic models for production of protein-based biomaterials. Hagfish slime threads that are stretched in water and dried have excellent mate- rial properties. IF proteins have the ability to self-assemble into networks of high aspect ratio filaments (i.e. 10 nm diameter, > 103 nm in length) in aqueous solutions, which raises the possibility that fibres could be spun from IF gels. In addition, slime thread proteins lend themselves to expres- sion in bacterial vectors as they are neither large nor repetitive like spider silk genes. History of Hagfish Slime Hagfish, also called Northern hagfish, slime hag and slime eel, are elon- gated, eel-shaped, bottom-dwelling marine organisms. They are charac- terized by soft, scale-less skin and four pairs of tentacles (barbells) sur- rounding the mouth and opening for the nasopharyngeal duct, used in respiratory water intake. The mouth of hagfish contains a protractible and retractable orange colored car- tilaginous plate that bears two sets of sharp teeth often referred to as the rasp- ing tongue. The tongue uses grasps and burrows into food resources. The skeleton is made entirely of cartilage with 5 to 15 pairs of gills. This species is jawless and lacks both a sympathetic nervous system and spleen. Hagfish have poorly de- veloped eyes covered by skin and a layer of muscle and are considered nocturnal creatures with a superior sense of touch and smell. The hagfish has no true fins except for a primi- tive tail fin created by a fold in skin. Hagfish have numerous specialized glands on either side of the abdomen that produce enormous quantities of mucus or slime when it is stressed or provoked. Tiny fibres reinforce the slime making it strong and difficult to remove for protection against preda- tors. The hagfish escapes its slime co- coon by tying itself in a knot and then passing the knot down the length of its body in order to wipe the slime away. Hagfish vary in color from a mottled grey-brown to a red-grey upper and a white to pale grey on the underside (Fig. 1) Hagfish typically grow to 40.6 to 81.3 cm in length. Variations in body color correspond to changes in the color of the sea bed. Atlantic hag- fish (Myxineglutinosa) is a cold water species that prefers a soft, muddy bottom and lives at depths of 30 to 1200 meters or more. Hagfish require high salinity (approximately 30 ppt or more) and low temperatures as- sociated with deeper water and are usually found half-concealed in the bottom sediment. They are widely distributed in the Arctic Sea south- ward along both coasts of the north Atlantic. Fig 1 Hagfish Mechanism and structure of hagfish slime threads Mucins and protein threads are two major parts of hag- fish slime produced from slime glands. Hagfish can develop high amount of slime because it having a three order of magnitude and it is highly dissolved then typi- cal mucus secretions. Slime thread has optimum material properties and generates high elastic material. Mucins impart viscosity at the strain rates tested and are important for rapid deployment of the slime. Hag- fish slime threads are tapered at both ends, and it suggests that hagfish slime as a resource for tomorrow’s natural fabric. Hagfish slime consists mainly of bulk sea water entrained between mucin-coated threads, and thus functions more like a fine sieve than coherent mucus. Hagfish slime makes silken thread: The hagfish slime can be a resource for tomorrow’s natural fabric. The fig 2 shows the hagfish secrete slime COVER STORY
  • 19. 19 www.textilevaluechain.comJune 2017 when threatened. This Along with other natural such as spi- der and silkworm silk, hagfish fibres could serve as a greener alternative to polymers such as rayon, nylon or polyester all of which have to be made with petroleum. Hagfish which aren’t true fish and resemble eels make a slime that contains thousands of fi- bres when bothered or threatened. Glands on their skin quickly release a mucous-like substance that expands as it mixes with seawater. The re- sult is a kind of slimy, viscous region around the hagfish that some marine bio legists think serves as a defensive mechanism by clogging gills. Cer- tainly predators, such as sharks, that try to bite or swallow the hagfish are quickly convinced to back off. The fibres hagfish make are about 70 per cent the strength of spider silk. Unlike spider silk, however, hagfish fibre might be amenable to mass pro- duction. It’s probably not possible to farm hagfish, as little is known of the animal’s reproductive habits, for one thing. Hagfish slime makes super-clothes: Threads of hagfish slime, which the animal secrete when aggravated, could be woven to produce a material with the strength of nylon or plastic. One of the most important facts of world is the source of new kinds of petroleum-free plastics and strong fabrics. The manufacturing process of hagfish slime thread like as spin- ning of silk. Firstly, harvesting of slime from the hagfish then dissolve it in to the water and then produce the structure by spinning like silk. The im- portant thing is that the hagfish slime able to process into a useable mate- rial. Engineered silkworms: The hagfish slime is a gel like struc- ture that is difficult to handle. The hagfish have big whiskers, and they don’t have eyes. Hagfish slime smells like dirty seawater and has the con- sistency of snot. It feels like mucous but a little bit more wet. When we hold the slime in to the air, water will remove and the only threadlike struc- ture is remain. The threads are similar to the bone protein and which is made up of in- termediate filament. The hagfish threads are 100 times smaller than a human hair and that indicates the unique characteristics and de- fense mechanism. The hagfish slime threads can be strengthening with the composition of nylon or plastic. Hagfish slime has the potential to be- come a stretchy fabric. This is the new trend of ecofriendly fiber and which can be good solution for fibers like Fur, hemp. The protec- tive slime will protect to the hagfish from external attacks. So in future you may get the fabrics which are silky and stretchy from the hagfish. Slime can be used as a long life tex- tile or developed textile: Today’s textile market strategy has a reasonable price with quality mate- rial. The slime threads have better properties for spinning and it is wo- ven biomaterials. Hagfish is a high growth rate animal that leaves under water same for the 300 million years. When slime is threatened, hagfish generate ge- latinous slime consist of mucous and higher number of protein threads. The hagfish slime threads belongs to the intermediate filament family of proteins and they have optimum me- chanical properties that opposite to the spider silks. The process of producing spider silk is very complicated phenomenon and spiders cannot be produce high quantities of silk within minimum time. The Hagfish slime have high po- tential to produce a high quality pro- tein based fibers rather than spider silk proteins. Conclusion: Now a day’s hagfish slime material plays a very important role in fashion. Move over organic cotton. Clothes made from hagfish slime could one day be the height of sustainable fash- ion. Synthetic fabric such as nylon and polyester are made from petro- leum. A green, natural alternative would be a protein-based cloth made from spider silk or the thick slime made by the hagfish to help it escape predators. The hagfish slime pro- tein threads generally 100 times less in diameter than human hair. The strength of hagfish slime threads is 10 times higher than the strength of nylon. The proteins in hagfish slime are several times smaller than those in spider silk, so it should be easier for bacteria to make them. The real fact would be if we could use bacte- rial hagfish proteins as a sustainable replacement for synthetic fibres, but the method will have to be improved before we can manufacture textiles in this way. Reference: • Douglas S. Fudge, Nimrod Levy, Scott Chiu and John M. Gosline, “Composi- tion, morphology and mechanics of hagfish slime,” The Journal of Experi- mental Biology 208, 4613-4625,2005 • Jorgensen J.M., J. P. Lomholt, R. E. Weber and H. Malte, “The Biology of Hagfishes, Chapman & Hall,” 1998. • Randy H. & Ewoldt, “Non-linear viscoe- lasticity of hagfish slime,” Institute for Mathematics and its Applications & De- partment of Chemical Engineering. • Atsuko Negishi, Clare L. Armstrong, Laurent Kreplak, Maikel C. Rheinstad- ter, Loong-Tak Lim, Todd E. Gillis, and Douglas S. Fudge*, “The Production of Fibres and Films from Solubilized Hag- fish Slime Thread Proteins.” • J. E. Herr1, T. M. Winegard1, M. J. O’Donnell2, P. H. Yancey3 and D. S. Fudge1*, “Stabilization and swelling of hagfish slime mucin vesicles.” (Bio mac- romolecules, doi.org/jwh). Fig 2. Hagfish secrete slime when threatened. This can be made into natural fibre like spider silk COVER STORY
  • 20. www.textilevaluechain.com 20 June 2017 • Downing S.W., R.H. Spitzer, W.L. Salo, J.S. Downing, L.J. Saidel, and E.A. Koch, “Threads in the hagfish slime gland thread cells: organization, biochemical features, and length”, Science 212: 326- 327, 1981. • Fernholm, B., “Thread cells from the slime gland of the hagfish, ActaZoologi- ca 62: 137-145, 1981. • Ferry, J.D., “A fibrous protein from the slime of the hagfish,” J. Biol. Chem. 138: 263-268, 1941. • Koch, E.A., R.H. Spitzer, R.B. Pithawalla, and S.W. Downing,“Keratin-like compo- nents of gland thread cells modulate the properties of mucus from the hag- fish,” Cell Tissue Res. 264:79-86, 1991. • Koch, E.A., R.H. Spitzer, R.B. Pithawalla, F.A. Castillos III, and D.A. Parry,“Hagfish biopolymer: a type I/type II homologue of epidermal keratin intermediate fila- ments,” Int. J. Biol. Macromol. 17:283- 292, 1995. • Martini, F., “Secrets of the slime hag,” Scientific American, October 1998, 70- 75, 1998. • Newby W.W., “The slime glands and thread cells of the hagfish, Polistrotrem- astouti,” J. Morph. 78: 397-409, 1946. Mr. Navnath V. Karche, Ms. Priyanka N. Gavhankar, Mr. Bhupendra Dansena DKTE’S Textile and Engineering Institute, Ichalkaranji, Kolhapur. 416115 COVER STORY Solid State Polymerization and enhancing Crystallinity & Molecu- lar weight to improve tensile properties of Polyester yarn A bstract: Solid State Polymeriza- tion (SSP) is a process in which the polymer chain lengths are increased by heat in the absence of oxygen and water, by means of either vacuum or purging with an inert gas to drive off the by-products of reac- tions. The reaction is driven by tem- perature, pressure, and the diffusion of by-products from the interior of the pellet to the surface. SSP is an important step frequently used after melt-polymerization for the purpose of enhancing the mechanical and rheological properties of polymers before injection blow molding or ex- truding. The SSP technique is widely applied in industrial manufacture of bottle-grade PET, films, and superior industrial fibers. Keyword: SSP- Solid State Polymeriza- tion, Tg Glass Transition temperature, Tm Melt temperature, IV Intransic Vis- cosity, After polymerization in the melt phase, the molecular weight of poly- ester can be further increased by polycondensation of PET chips in the solid state and this process is called solid state polymerization (SSP). This process enables higher molecular weights to be reached which are ei- ther technically or commercially not feasible in the melt phase. Solid state polymerization in the form of chips or powder, pre-extrusion SSP is a com- mon approach in the production of high molecular weight polymers for molded products. Polycondensation reaction is exother- mic, therefore, it can also be driven forward to give polymer with higher molecular weight if the reaction is carried out at a lower temperature. At lower temperatures of polycon- densation, equilibrium shifts forward to higher completion enabling forma- tion of higher molecular weight of the product. Since temperatures cannot be lowered in melt polymerization, the best solution is to carry out the reaction in solid state, wherein tem- peratures lower than melting point of the polymer can be used. At these temperatures, the kinetics of the re- action is slow and it takes a long time to complete the reaction. The molecular weight can be in- creased up to 27000 (IV, 0.90) for bot- tle grade and as high as 38000 (IV, 1.20) for technical applications such as tyre cord, seal belts and air bags The first step before carrying out the solid state polymerization is pre- crystallization of chips. The water quenched polymer chips obtained from melt polycondensation stage are almost wholly amorphous. There- fore, the chips are first intensely dried and annealed at a gradually increas- ing temperature up to the point of maximum crystallization rate to im- part high level of crystallinity. This raises the glass transition tempera- ture of the chips and prevents their sticking to each other during solid state polymerization. The SSP is performed at tempera- tures between 220 and 235°C for PET, which lie above the glass transi- tion temperature and below the crys- talline melting point of PET. Under these conditions, polymer chain end groups are mobilized sufficiently to undergo polycondensation. The an- nealed chips are heated in a stream of hot inert gas or by agitating in a vacuum drier to remove small traces of EG and other volatile by-products. As the reaction is carried out in the solid phase, volatile by-products can diffuse easily to the surface of each polymer chip and are instantly carried away by the gas flow or high vacuum. The main advantages of increas- ing molecular weight in solid state compared to melt phase are: 1. Problems associated with stirring of viscous melt are eliminated. 2. Degradation and side reactions are limited in the solid state due to lower processing temperature used. Solid state polycondensa- tion process favours polymeriza- tion process compared to depo- lymerization. 3. Best means of achieving PET with
  • 21. 21 www.textilevaluechain.comJune 2017 acceptable level of acetaldehyde. The rate of the solid state polycon- densation process depends on parti- cle size, initial molecular weight, crys- tallinity of PET chips and end group concentration. The pellet size has generally been used to identify the rate controlling mechanism of overall reaction rate. When the reaction rate is chemically controlled, then the pel- let size has no effect on the reaction rate. On the other hand, if reaction rate is diffusion controlled, i.e. limited by the diffusion of byproducts from inside of the pellet chips to the pel- let surface, then the reaction rate can be increased by decreasing the pellet size, due to decrease in the length of diffusion path. It has also been shown that the higher starting molecular weights enable higher molecular weights to be achieved. this has been attrib- uted to the tendency of the lower starting molecular weights to lead to higher crystallinity build-up dur- ing SSP. Crystallization reduces the SSP reaction rate by reducing chain mobility and by increasing the diffu- sion path length of the by-products. The crystallinity of polymer should be between 33 and 58% and should not exceed 80%.The reaction rate is very sensitive to the ratio of hydroxyl to carboxyl end groups. At low carboxyl concentrations, the transesterifica- tion reaction will be favoured, while at high carboxyl concentrations the esterification route will be preferred. The optimum ratio of hydroxyl end groups to carboxylic end groups has been experimentally found to be two. A. How the Process Works • Receive PET, polyesters or other condensation polymers made by melt polymerization • Transfer the pellets to a Rotary Vacuum Dryer (RVD) • Generally, the vacuum pump re- moves air, water and by-products of the SSP; alternatively, nitrogen purging is used • The temperature/time profile is controlled with a microprocessor • Initial heating at a temperature above Tg cold crystallizes amor- phous pellets to prevent sticking and fusion of pellets • Heating is continued to dry the ”wet” pellets • Heating is continued to a prede- termined temperature below the melting temperature of the poly- mer • Solid state polymerization is done at a high temperature and low vacuum (or alternatively at zero oxygen level with nitrogen purg- ing) to achieve the desired high molecular weight of the polymer • The SSP progress is followed by periodically taking samples with custom designed samplers • The melt viscosity at a specific temperature of that sample is de- termined within several minutes • The Intrinsic Viscosity is obtained from the Correlation Chart/Curve established from melt viscos- ity data and Intrinsic Viscosity obtained from solution viscosity at ambient temperatures for PET homopolymers • The final product viscosity is as specified by the customer • A major benefit of solid state po- lymerization is obtaining a desired high molecular weight polymer of uniform and consistent Intrinsic Viscosity • Other major benefits include the reduction of undesirable side re- actions and the levels of by-prod- ucts • For PET, the SSP by-products are ethylene glycol and acetaldehyde • When the desired molecular weight is achieved, the product pellets are cooled and transferred to storage tanks • The product pellets are classified, packaged and shipped according to customer requirements Applications of IDY:- Automobile tires, safety belts, airbags, geotextiles, mooring ropes for drilling platforms, conveyor belts, sails and fishing nets – all these are manufac- tured using industrial yarns. Indus- trial yarns are considered to be the ultimate discipline in filament manu- facturing. High tenacities, extreme dimensional stability, tremendous durability along with a large range of titers – although the demanding production process promises high- margins, it is however also simultane- ously a huge challenge both for the yarn manufacturer and the systems constructor. REFERENCES:- [1]. Rabindranath K, Mashelkar R A, J. Appl. Poly. Sci. 1990. [2]. Culbert B., Christel A. “Continuous Solid state Polymerization of Polyesters”. [3]. Papaspyrides C.D, Vouyiouka S. N; “Fun- damentals of Solid-state Polymeriza- tion. [4]. petus.com/ssp.aspx [5]. nptel.ac.in/courses/116102010/40 Digambar Chavan, P V Kadole DKTE’s Textile & Engineering Institute Ichalkaranji, India. COVER STORY
  • 22. www.textilevaluechain.com 22 June 2017 C handeri cloth is composed of the tana, which is the warp or the length-wise, stretched out set of threads through which the bana or the weft is woven back and forth. Since the inception of weav- ing in Chanderi, till about 1920s, only white and off-white cloth was woven with its ends fringed with zari or gold- en thread. Only hand-spun cotton thread was utilized, even in the tana, even though it was barely strong enough to be held under tension. The then weavers were highly skilled workers as they had to be extremely careful while handling the delicate cotton yarn, producing an assortment of garments including safas, pagdis, dupattas, lugadas and saris. Chanderi refers to a shimmering cot- ton fabric which is famous for being light weight and having sheer texture and glossy transparency. Practiced exclusively in a town called Chand- eri in Madhya Pradesh, India, the art derived its name from. Saris weaved out of chanderi are best for summer wear. Motifs used in chanderi weav- ing are mostly inspired from nature (earth and sky). Few of them are Swans (hamsa), gold coins (asharfi), trees, fruits, flowers and heavenly bodies. Soft pastel hues characterize chanderi fabrics however, timeless combinations of bright colour bor- ders on an off white base, or red on black, also exist now. INTRODUCTION- Chanderi, which is amongst the best known handloom clusters, occupies a special place because of its centu- ries old weaving specialty of produc- ing finely textured fabrics of silk and cotton embellished with zari woven work, and more specifically because of its saris that have been patronized by royalty. Chanderi is known to have its origin back in the Vedic Period, and is believed to have founded by Lord Krishna’s cousin, Shishupal. The Chanderi produces three kinds of fab- rics: Pure Silk, Chanderi Cotton and Silk Cotton. The motifs have come a long way from the traditional coin, floral and peacocks to the geometrics. Chanderi Saree, a product intricately woven by hand interspersed with the delicacy of the extra weft motifs that has for times immemorial satisfied the refined tastes of the royalty. The Chanderi fabrics are known for their sheer texture, light weight and a glossy transparency that sets them apart from textiles produced en masse in factories. Traditionally, the fabric was woven using very fine hand spun yarn, which accounted for its delicate texture. So its quality, de- signs colors and motifs would be ap- propriate to cater the demands of an elite class family. A beautiful blend of Cotton, Silk thread and zari results to Chanderi fabric” A Chanderi fabric is famous by the name of Chanderi town in Madhya Pradesh. The fabric is a result of tra- ditional methods of hand weaving that have been developed over the centuries and passed down through generations. Chanderi is primarily a weaver’s town, located near the riv- er Betwa in Guna district of Madhya Pradesh. Around 60% population of Chanderi are involved in the manu- facturing of Chanderi.As the fabric is woven by three kinds of threads the Cotton, Silk thread and Zari are im- ported from other regions in India as well as China, Japan and Korea. The chemical dyes are preferably used due to their fast acting quality. Tra- ditional looms are used as a primary means of production. These include Pit, Dobby and Jacquard Looms. Most Chanderis have a rich gold border and two lines of gold on the pallu. Some have gold checks or little mo- tifs (known as butis). The weavers in- volved in the process are long stand- ing in trade and are well experienced. The Chanderi fabric is light weight and has intricate designs. The Chanderi Fabric is also well known for its transparency and sheer texture. The transparency is a unique feature, which is not commonly or found in any of the textile product all over the country. The transparency in Chanderi Fabric products is the consequence of Single Flature quality of yarn used. Flature yarn is the quality of yarn when the glue of the raw yarn is not taken out. The degumming of the raw yarn gives shine and transparency to the fin- ished fabric. This quality is not found in any other fabric of the country and it is exclusive to the Chanderi Fabric. The special transparent yarn is used both in warp and weft of different va- rieties and configurations. The trans- parent yarn is cotton and as well as silk also. The yarn used in Chanderi fabric is of high quality and extra fine. Be- cause of non-degumming of the raw yarn, the finished fabric produced is extremely transparent and which in consequence result into sheer tex- ture. Chanderi is famous for its drape of saree with rich gold border at the ‘pallu’ and some selective ones hav- ing gold embellishments with lotus roundels or butis, spread all across the six yards. Chanderi involve in production of three kinds of fabrics mainly: y Pure silk where the warp and weft is woven in pure silk. y Chanderi cotton The warp and weft are 100s or 120s cotton. The Chanderi muslins have been known for their smoothness and softness; this was conventionally attained by using koli- a local wild onion used for sizing. Today this quality has been put to an end. CHANDERI WEAVING- AN EXCLUSIVE ART OF INDIA COVER STORY
  • 23. 23 www.textilevaluechain.comJune 2017 Silk cotton the weaver skillfully coalesce 13/15-denier warp with 100s/120s cotton in the weft. DIFFERENT STAGES FOR THE PRO- DUCTION OF CHANDERI WEAVING 1. PROCUREMENT OF RAW MATE- RIAL: The raw material is purchased by the Master Weaver from the yarn dealers who in turn get the silk from Karna- taka. The silk yarn used is largely im- ported Chinese or Korean silk. The cotton yarn is procured from places like Coimbatore in southern India and Jaipur, and is usually pre-dyed. The yarn dealers of cotton often get customized colors dyed as per the re- quirements. The minimum quantity required for such dyeing is almost 25 kgs or 10 hanks. 2. THE DYEING PROCESS In Chanderi is done mainly for the silk yarn by the local dyers who have been in this skill since long. The silk yarn dying process takes about 45 to 60 minutes depend- ing on the colour. 3. AFTER DYEING PROCESS The yarn is loosened or wound on reels. This is a prelude to the prepara- tion of the warpand weft 4. WARPING For the weft the yarn is wound on pirns with the help of a charkha and this activity is usually performed by the members of the weavers’ fam- ily. Warping is a specialised process, which is performed by the warpers. The warp yarns are wound on bob- bins, which are arranged across a wooden frame called reel. The yarns from these reels pass through a reed to be wound around a vertical drum. A warper in good times would warp 4 or 5 warps for 12 saris each. 5. PASSING THE WARP THROUGH THE REED The next step is the task of passing the warp through the reed and the healds. The warp threads are then joined to the old warp threads with a deft twist of the hand of the women folk. This process takesapprox 3-4 days. 6. THE DESIGN OF THE BORDER AND THE PALLAV. Before the actual weaving begins the weaver sets the design of the border and the pallav. The respective ends of the design are tied to a vertical har- ness called jala. This process takes anywhere between 3-4 days depend- ing on the complexity of the design. The figured effects are produced with the help of an extra weft and the number of ‘tillis’ i.e. the no. of weft yarns will determine the time taken. The amount of time taken reduces if the number of ply in the weft yarn is more and consequently the weav- er can move faster and cover more ground. However in this case the out- put is less fine. Similarly higher the reed count more is the production time. 7. WEAVING The weaving is performed by one or two very skilled weavers of the same family. The looms being used are largely traditional pit looms with throw shuttle. The Chanderi fabric does not require any post loom pro- cess and is cut off the loom to be packed and sold. Little is done by way of labeling and product specifica- tion or by way of customized packing methods. BASIC CHARECTERISTICS OF CHAN- DERI WEAVING The Chanderi zari, which is sourced from Surat, can either be real or test- ed. It comes in three separate shades: y Copper, y Silver and y Golden. Earlier the looms known as the Throw- shuttle pit loom were in use. Weaving on this was a very time consuming process and it required two weavers to sit side by side on the same loom. The Nal Pherma saris were woven on this loom which had one colour in one border, another in the other bor- der and a different one in the body of the sari. Nowadays, however, only the Fly-shuttle looms are in use and these are operated by a single weaver. CHANDERI WEAVING The process of Chanderi weaving has the following steps: Designing of fibre:-Two types of de- signing are done in the case of Chan- deri weaving. One is the main design for the sari itself that contains vari- ous aspects like the border, the kind of motifs to be used, color combina- tions, etc. This is usually provided by the ordering party. This procedure is informal in the case of the local deal- er but in the case of the big trading houses, a laminated paper with the design, the threads to be used and the location of motifs, etc., are pro- vided to the weaver as a sample. The other is the more exquisite motif or booty designing which is done by the master weaver on a graph paper. This is provided to the weaver depending on the terms of the order. (2) Dyeing is an important part of the whole process, as both cotton and silk require dyeing before they can be used on the loom. The process of dyeing is normally carried out by spe- cialized technicians who work for the dealer and are paid by him. There are different kinds of dyes for coloring silk and cotton. For cotton, a ready- made fast color dye is used while for silk special dyes called Sando Silk are used which are also readymade dyes. The process of dyeing starts with dissolving the readymade fast color dye in warm water. The threads are dipped into this solution and left for a while before being taken out. De- pending on the quality of the dye, are dipped into the solution again for some time . After this they are washed in with plain water and then soaked in a so- lution of warm water, detergent and soda. Finally, the threads are washed once more and hung on bamboo poles to dry. Once they are dry, they are sent back to the weavers for fur- ther processing. COVER STORY
  • 24. www.textilevaluechain.com 24 June 2017 CONCLUSION Though Chanderi products have a high exportable value, it does not carry the same appeal. It is marketed to the local souk within the country. Only 10% of the total production is exported while the rest of the 90% is circulated within the national bound- aries. As of the modern designs of the Chanderi, the demand of them has been fading slowly and gradually by the exclusive and highly fashionable class of buyers. The demand is now restricted to few dresses and evening party and other ceremonial outfits suited in summers. We should try to encourage the local art of the region to motivate the weavers to make bet- ter products meeting today’s trendy crowd. Counting to the very luxurious, warm, breathable and lightweight fabric, home furnishing fabrics are very much in use nowadays. They have very effective role in living room for they are soft, wrinkle and stretch re- sistant and non-absorbent. The Chan- deri fabrics are known for their sheer texture, light weight and a glossy transparency that sets them apart from textiles produced en masse in factories. Chanderi weavers discovered Japa- nese silk. They began substituting this in the warps in cotton saris, and also developed a silk-by-silk variety in which their profit margins were higher. As a result, today, it is difficult to find a genuine cotton-by-cotton Chanderi sari in retail establishments. The problem of sourcing authentic Chanderi has been exacerbated by the development of many look-alikes available at cheaper. REFERENCES:- http://chanderiheritage.in/weaving/ http://www.chanderisarees.co.in/index. php http://www.india1001.com/the-famous- chanderi-fabric www.utsavpedia.com/textiles/chanderi/ http://chanderiyaan.chanderi.org/ www.fibre2fashion.com/indianhandsn- looms/chanderi.asp www.fibre2fashion.com/...fashion.../fash- ion-forecasting/fashion-forecasting... www.indianroots.com/designer/m-q/pra- ma-by-pratima-pandey COVER STORY Barhanpurkar,Prachi Hurkat, TK Sinha, Professor , Dept of Textile Technology ,SVVV, Indore Office : E-1536-1537,New Bombay Market, Near Sahara Darwaja, Surat, Gujrat, INDIA Factory Address:- Plot no.46, 47, Shivdhara Raschel Park, Guy Pagla Road, Torrent Power gate, NH-8, Surat - 394150, Gujrat, INDIA Mfg.of knitted, Embroidery & Export fabrics Nirav Virani +91 99095 10008 Kir Kothiya + 91 99784 32203 Email :- kenyfabrics@gmail.com fabrics Manufacturer of Warp Knitted, Raschel, Circular, Raschel Jacquard Fabrics ADVT
  • 25. 25 www.textilevaluechain.comJune 2017 Interview with Mr. Pradeep David, General Manager, Universal Robots, India and Sri Lanka 1. Give us a brief background of Universal Robots. In 2003, the three founders of the company, Esben Østergaard, Kasper Støy and Kristian Kassow, together came up with the idea of creating a light robot that is easy to install and program as they could see that heavy, expensive and unwieldy robots were dominating robotics and there was a huge market for a user-friendly op- tion. In 2005, they officially founded Universal Robots, with the aim of making robot technology accessible to small and medium-sized enterpris- es. An investment by Syddansk Inno- vation shaped the foundation of the company. In 2008, the company sold its first product through distributers in Den- mark and Germany. Universal Ro- bots’ first product was the UR5, a six- jointed articulated robotic arm that revolutionized the market for indus- trial robots. The UR5 weighs 18 kg, has a lifting capacity of up to 5 kg and a working radius of 85 cm. Within a year the company expanded its busi- ness in the entire European markets. In 2011, Universal Robots entered the Asian market with an office in China and in next two years, they es- tablished subsidiaries, in New York, Shanghai and, also established a dis- tributor network in South America and Oceania. The second product UR 10 was also launched at the same time. It was tar- geted towards larger tasks with a lift- ing ability of 10 kg and a reach of 130 cm. In 2015, the company witnessed the launch of world’s most flexible, lightweight table-top robot UR3, to work alongside humans, which has a payload capacity of 3 kilos which can be used for light assembly tasks and automated workbench scenarios. The company is a part of Teradyne Inc., headquartered in Odense, Den- mark. UR has subsidiaries and region- al offices in the USA, Spain, Germany, Italy, Czech Republic, China, Singa- pore, India, Japan, Taiwan and South Korea. The Indian operation of Universal Robots started in 2016. Universal Ro- bots has deployed over 200 Cobots in India since 2011, majorly in the mar- ket segments of automotive industry, FMCG, Electronics, Education and R&D Centers. Bajaj Auto Ltd. which is our oldest customers in India saw a gradual rise in the productivity and efficiency in their production after de- ploying UR cobots. It also increased the productivity of their employees along with their product quality. They have deployed over 100 cobots since 2010 and are now the 3rd largest mo- torcycle manufacturer in the world. 2. Tell us about Collaborative Ro- bots and their USP. A collaborative robot (cobot) was assembled with the intention to of physical interaction with humans in a shared workspace, where the repeti- tive and heavy tasks are taken care by cobots and supervision and qual- ity checks are done by human be- ings. They are robotic arms designed to assist human beings in a specific task, as a guide or assistor and as a portable tool. Various researchers have proved that the teams made of humans and robots collaborating efficiently can be around 85 percent more productive than teams made of either humans or robots. Cobots can safely work alongside humans, without any danger of injury, they are easy to deploy (just plug and play), flexible to use and inexpensive hence they are triggering the demand in the manufacturing industry comprehen- sively around the globe. Since the first robot was launched in 2008, the company has experienced considerable growth with the user- friendly robots sold in more than 50 countries worldwide; 11,000 of our collaborative robots are in use world- wide for the industries like Automo- tive & Subcontractors, Textiles & ap- parels, Food & agriculture, Furniture & Equipments, Electronics & Tech- nology, Metal & Machining, Plastic & Polymers, Pharma & Chemistry, Sci- entific & Research. Some of our key customers are BMW, Volkswagen, Siemens, L’oreal, Bajaj Auto, Aurolabs etc. UR cobots are also being used for some unusual, out of the box applica- tions like Healthcare, Physiotherapy, Photography, Cooking, Bartending, Farming, Flying planes etc. Develop- mental technologies like driverless autonomous vehicles could also see the use of cobots, in the near future. 3. The Indian textile industry being labour intensive; how will cobots contribute to its development? We at Universal Robots believe in giv- ing back to the employees and thus, collaborative robots will function as a helping hand to the workforce and not a replacement. Cobots func- tion to increase the productivity of the workforce as they are accessible and easy to use, the employees too, are excited to work side by side with their robotic co-workers increasing INTERVIEW
  • 26. www.textilevaluechain.com 26 June 2017 efficiency along with the quality and quantity of production. Cobots can be used in any segment of textile manufacturing where accura- cy, precision and repetitive mass pro- duction is required. The key areas in textiles industry where UR cobots are being used are inspection, ‘pick and drop’, cutting and sewing. The world’s first robot which has been used for sewing garments is made by us. 4. How do you plan to expand the use of collaborative robots in the Indian Textile Industry? Cobots are a part of Industry 4.0 which has paved way for the next industrial revolution – Industry 5.0, which ena- bles man and machine to work hand- in-hand. The scenario where humans and robots are inter-dependent and accomplish what each of them does best, safely. We are in an age where the application of next-generation au- tomation is doing more than we ever thought possible, impacting individu- als and businesses in many instances without even being noticed. We are in talks with various textile companies all across India and we be- lieve that our robots are built for such precisions. A fabric industry needs high level of accuracy; weather it’s the application of picking the fabric parts from an ex- act location (by avoiding folding and minimize wrinkling) or cutting of ma- terials in an exact shape or scraping denims. Our flexible, cobots, which occupy a very little space in work area can work alongside workers safely as a third arm and can help them in pro- ducing superior products. Hence it’s with this precision approach, we are going into the market and 5. How would Universal robots like to expand its operations in India and the SAARC region? UR Cobots are sold in more than 50 countries worldwide and 11,000 of our robots are deployed globally. Some of the leading manufactur- ers are using our technology include BMW, Volkswagen, Siemens, L’oreal, Bajaj Auto, Aurolabs, etc. Our cobots have got over 65 patents pertaining to Robot Safety, Robot Construction, Trajectory Control, and Robot Calibra- tion & Programming. We established office in India, Banga- lore in February 2016 but some of the companies in India are using our co- bots from past 7 years, which is much before the launch of the local opera- tions. One of them is Bajaj Auto which has deployed over 120 cobots since 2011. We have been successful in de- veloping a strong channel network which covers the entire country from North to South and East to West. According to a study done by Interna- tional Federation of Robotics (2017); the future will be robots and humans working together. Robots substitute labour activities but do not replace jobs. Less than 10% of jobs are fully automatable. Increasingly, robots are used to complement and augment la- bour activities; the net impact on jobs and the quality of work is positive. Automation provides the opportunity for humans to focus on higher-skilled, higher-quality and higher-paid tasks. We believe that UR cobots have the po- tential to change the dynamics of this sector. This clearly establishes the fact that the future of automation is not ma- chines taking over human job but it’s the synchronization of robots and human which lays the foundations of the future. We cannot always depend on labour for high quality and repeti- tive jobs because after a certain point they can get tired which can affect their performance whereas a robot can perform such work 24 x 7 hours, without a tea or lunch break. How- ever there are certain quality checks and supervision roles which a human mind can do best as compared to a robot. The human robot collabora- tion ensures that the high precision, repetitive and heavy lifting jobs are taken care by UR cobots so that the labour can concentrate on high skilled and higher remuneration jobs. Hence it’s not the question of cheap labour any more it’s the question of qual- ity, efficiency and higher productivity which can only be achieved through human robot collaboration. “ ” Suzuki Suitings Private Limited Suzuki Suitings pvt ltd 62, shreeji cloth market, sarangpur, Ahmedabad-380002 Arun parasrampuria :+919825320391 | Bhavna Parasrampuria :+919327080600 Email: bhavnaparasrampuria@gmail.com Manufacturers of all kinds of Suitings. Exporters of Polyestor viscose , cotton , poly wool , wool,and all kinds of dyed cotton fabric, corduroy Suitings INTERVIEW
  • 27. 27 www.textilevaluechain.comJune 2017 GLOBAL FOCUS One Belt – One Road: China’s big initiative creating massive business opportunities I n 2013, China announced One Belt One Road (OBOR) – an initiative that could potentially reshape the world order. OBOR comprises a land- based “Silk Road Economic Belt” and an oceangoing “Maritime Silk Road.” The “Belt” is an infrastructure net- work of transport, energy and com- munication projects stretching from Xi’an in China through Central Asia to Moscow, Rotterdam and Venice. The “Road” is its maritime equivalent, a network of planned ports and other coastal infrastructure from South and Southeast Asia to East Africa and the northern Mediterranean Sea. Over the last three years, the OBOR initiative has gathered significant mo- mentum but its underlying concept, scope and framework remain fluid. Understanding these as well as the associated business challenges and opportunities were the objectives of the discovery. China is the world’s first or second largest economy, the third largest global investor, and the largest and third largest trader of goods and ser- vices, respectively. However, its eco- nomic growth in 2015 stood at 6.9%, the slowest it has been in a quarter of a century. Lu Xiankun indicated that for many years a GDP growth rate of 8% was almost like a “holy num- ber” for the Chinese government. Anything below that was alarming. It meant serious problems in many aspects, particularly employment. But now, people are already talking about a growth of below 7%. Mean- while, China is confronted by myriad internal challenges – a regional de- velopment gap between coastal and central/western regions, many peo- ple still living below the poverty line, massive migration from countryside to cities, serious industrial overcapac- ity and employment challenges for young graduates. The OBOR initiative could be the answer to some of these issues. The Rationale OBOR is the most important thrust of China’s opening-up and develop- mental strategy (both internally and externally) since its accession to the WTO in 2001. China has been look- ing to the WTO for trade liberalization reforms but, with the seeming failure of the Doha round, the WTO remains embroiled in a deadlock. The reason for the deadlock, Marion Jansen ex- plained, is that the US and EU want to execute deals that are more compli- cated, including issues such as stand- ards and regulations on labor, compe- tition, investment, and environment, i.e. those that are not priorities for the developing countries. For this reason, the major industrial powers – EU, Canada, US, Japan – have opted for “mega regional” deals to cover is- sues that they want to resolve. Faced with slowing growth, China cannot wait for the WTO to take action. Since infrastructure is not typically part of the trade agreements negotiated by the WTO, China has moved on with the OBOR initiative, which focuses on infrastructure as a key pillar. Perceptions about OBOR The international community is still struggling to understand the gist and impact of OBOR since China has dif- ficulty in explaining its intentions. Ini- tially, OBOR was referred to as “Chi- na’s Marshall Plan” by some Western media and more recently it has been seen as a countermeasure to the US- led Trans Pacific Partnership (TPP) and pivot to Asia. Lu explained that China is presenting OBOR as an open instrument developed in a multipolar world that seeks market-driven col- laboration with 65 countries, and is even open to countries that are not situated along the OBOR. A case in point is Switzerland. China wants to avoid the impression that it is sinking its dragon claws into other countries. Instead, it is trying to find synergies with existing programs in these coun- tries. Projects will come incrementally and will beadapted differently to the local aspirations of diverse coun- tries. Unlike the TPP or other WTO agreements thatare often based on hardand strict rules, OBOR is infor- mal, cooperative and loosely struc- tured with a soft approach to rules and boundaries. Shuaihua Cheng drew an analogy, “the OBOR policy is similar to Tai Chi rather than Ameri- can kickboxing. Or like Uber, which
  • 28. www.textilevaluechain.com 28 June 2017 works on a model of open sourcing and businessvia collaboration.” Marion concurred that OBOR’s ap- proach is indeed inclusive as she compared the countries covered by both TPP and OBOR. TPP countries – which do not include Indonesia, India and China – are all relatively similar with high GDP per capita (with the ex- ception of Vietnam), whereas OBOR countries are way more diverse. She stated, “If OBOR only achieves half of what it intends to do, it could be very powerful.” Shuaihua made the point that the TPP does have a negative trade impact on China by preventing access to prefer- ential markets and tariff reductions. Of course, trade and manufacturing will be divertedto TPP members, for example to lowcost Vietnam. Further- more, US President Barack Obama has openly stated, “The US, not China, should write the rules of the global economy” to which China’s ministry of foreign affairs responded that no single country should write the rules of global trade. Shuaihua feels there- fore that OBOR is clearly a measure to circumvent the US. Jean Pierre, for his part, sees it as an alternative to TPP. Opportunities OBOR may create travel opportunity of 100 billion dollar annually and huge boost to tours, travels & hospi- tality industry. OBOR presents for China is that it will open new markets, which will help to resolve issues of domestic overca- pacity. Moreover, the infrastructure thrust will reduce trade costs through central Asia and shift competitive- ness inland. As the land corridors are set to run along the major Eurasian countries, through China-Mongolia- Russia, China-Central and West Asia, China-Indochina Peninsula, China- Pakistan, Bangladesh-China-India- Myanmar, it will also enable the inte- gration of inland and coastal China, bringing growth and stability to the region. An example upheld as a sym- bol of success for OBOR, the Trans- Eurasia Chongqing-Xinjiang-Europe international railway route, which starts in Chongqing and ends 11,179 km later (following 16 days of travel) in Duisburg, Germany, is currently be- ing used by companies like BMW and HP. China needs more such infrastruc- ture projects to sustain its economic growth and to support important domestic industries. In fact, Marc La- perrouza senses a kind of despera- tion among Chinese businesses and government agencies to find new projects/acquisitions on technology and infrastructure. He feels that the country is currently obsessed with in- novation. In fact, in southern China large-scale low-cost manufacturing is transforming into design houses in an effort to move up the value chain. China wants to move beyond its tra- ditional role of exchanging infrastruc- ture against natural resources, as in the case of its investments in Africa. By progressing with OBOR, it will take projects coupled with financing mech- anisms to countries lacking in infra- structure, such as Indonesia or the Philippines. This will, in turn, al- low China to offer its products and services to these countries in the longer term. Be- yond hard infra- structure, Marc sees the potential for China to ex- port standards for the very first time. China has been intensifying its ef- forts to set indigenous standards for homegrown ultrahigh voltage (UHV) transmission technology and aims to contribute to UHV standards inter- nationally. Two factors are creating a window of opportunity for Chinese UHV technologies to gain acceptance as the de facto global standard: (1) It is the only country currently deploy- ing UHV technology on a large scale and (2) No international UHV stand- ard has yet prevailed. While OBOR signals a new phase in China’s globalization process, what about soft infrastructure? Despite all its success, China lacks attractive- ness and battles inferior quality per- ceptions. According to Marc, out of 7 million annual university graduates, there are 700,000 engineers but only a fraction of them are world-class. This situation could give rise to funda- mental questions about quality and security for key strategic assets, for example as the UK’s next generation of nuclear power plants will be built in collaboration with China Guangdong Nuclear Power Group. Marc won- ders if China’s infrastructure-driven hard power can translate into win- ning soft power. “Exporting the local advantage sounds good on paper but what about the ground reality of the specific OBOR countries? It was an African honeymoon for China until a few years ago but now the situation is growing tense.” Ultimately, China wants better return on investment. While it is the biggest holder of US debt, it is also looking to invest elsewhere to not only enhance its returns but also to win friends in the process. Evidently, with OBOR the investment preference (e.g. M&A, EPC projects) will shift toward developing countries where priorities are power, transport infrastructure, telecommu- nication and water. The next open question is whether there is an actual business case for OBOR investments and whether it can bring sufficient returns. GLOBAL FOCUS
  • 29. 29 www.textilevaluechain.comJune 2017 Funding OBOR is expected to stimulate a mas- sive trillion dollar market, much larg- er than China’s domestic one. The to- tal investment needed in the relevant areas is about $5 trillion over the next five years while infrastructure de- mand in Southeast Asia stands at $2.5 trillion over the next 10 years. Infra- structure projects of such magnitude will create the need for equally strong funding. For this reason, China has taken the lead in establishing the Asia Infra- structure Investment Bank (AIIB) with 57 founding members and a capital of $100 billion. Despite opposition from Washington, US allies including Australia, Britain, Germany, Italy, the Philippines and South Korea have all joined the AIIB, which is clearly seen as a huge political success for China. It is evident that Beijing-based AIIB allows China more independence from the American finance system. Capital will be also be made available through the Silk Road Fund ($40 bil- lion), BRICS Development Bank ($100 billion) and a recapitalization of oth- er Chinese banks. However, China’s state funding will only provide 15%, just a fraction, of the developing mar- ket infrastructure demand. European companies wants role in the OBOR projects. How can we bid to form part of a consortium, for exam- ple, in Indonesia? How willing are we to go in there and risk losing IP?” Chi- na has to define projects with tangible outcomes and governance elements. Only then will it attract international private equity or sovereign funds that see OBOR as the right place for their investments. He highlighted the op- portunities for European companies arising from OBOR: • Outbound capital projects in part- nership with Chinese players, through the supply of equipment, technology or intellectual property. • “Europe eastward” strategy, allow- ing access to developing market gov- ernments and new clients through OBOR projects. • Leverage Chinese partnerships in OBOR countries to access the Chi- nese market. • Outbound financing/private equity fund. To leverage the above-mentioned op- portunities, the Silk Road Chamber of International Commerce, headed by Jean- Guy Carrier, was launched in Hong Kong in December 2015. With the participation of nearly 100 international, regional and national chambers of commerce, its objective is to put international business at the heart of the OBOR initiatives by con- necting businesses, governments and investors, ramifications of OBOR will encourage progress even in difficult areas such as Iran; a country that is seen as a problem suddenly starts to become a part of the solution. A strong business community in Iran that has long been in isolation is keen to reconnect. The OBOR strategy is being invented on the go. It is a 21st century big idea – probably the big- gest idea floated in the last 10 years – and it is being implemented in a Chi- nese manner. You cross the river by feeling the stones. It may not sound very satisfying strategically but that is what is being applied. Key Risks When all is said and done, signifi- cant risks – political, economic and operational – have to be considered. Given that OBOR remains intention- ally amorphous and at an early stage of implementation, the biggest stum- bling block is lack of information and clarity. Furthermore, infrastructure projects require large-scale invest- ment, high standards of management and involve long operating cycles, all of which mean great uncertainty in project profitability. Operational risks are also exacerbated by diverse le- gal and regulatory systems in OBOR countries. The current world econ- omy is still unstable, and changes in macro-economic industry and market environment will have an impact on crossborder investment. Jean-Pierre closed the discussion by reiterating the greatest risk – geopolitics. The OBOR canvas is spread over the world’s most vibrant region which is also the most combustible. Asia’s balance of power remains fragile given China’s disputes with many of its neighbors, especially in the South China Sea. China’s challenge is to achieve a peaceful rise, for which his- torically there is no precedent. GLOBAL FOCUS Mr. Arvind Sinha CEO - Business Advisors Group Cell No. 9820062612 Email ID: lionasinha@gmail.com Life is like a game of cards. The hand you are dealt is determinism the way you play it is free will. Jawaharlal Nehru “ ”
  • 30. www.textilevaluechain.com 30 June 2017 TVC: What is your inspiration for starting the company? Motivation- al factor Resil Chemicals was established by two aspiring entrepreneurs, Mr. M. S. Vijayan and Mr. M. S. Mohan. Our interest in innovation was fuelled by the exponential growth of the Textile Chemical and Auxiliary market glob- ally. From where idea generated? What is the thought process behind it? How it all began? Resil was a pioneer for silicones in textiles. We were the first to sup- ply the full range of textile finish- ing and auxiliary chemicals and also are the manufacturers of custom- ized silicones for textiles. Since then We have become one of the Asia’s largest formulators of customized sili- cones. Silicone as a chemical substance has a wide variety of applications due to its chemical nature, making them ide- al for catering to the Textile industry. While in the past manufacturers used silicones in lower quantities due to its relatively “high price”, today silicones are widely accepted and are seen as an indispensable entity. Started as a small manufacturing unit in 1994 with just 5 employees, today Resil is a 300+ member organization with 4 internationally certified manu- facturing facilities with over 20,000 metric tons of specialty chemical pro- duction per year. Resil now exports to more than 10 countries and has diversified into emerging technology based products such as hand sanitiz- ers, disinfectants, and automotive de- tailing products. TVC: What Challenges & Struggle you have faced? Accumulating finances for the company was one of the major challenges. Running a private limit- ed company requires an adequate and regular flow of funds for its efficient functioning. Proper man- agement of capital is essential to a company’s fundamental financial health and operational success. In the chemical industry, capital serves as a metric for smooth busi- ness operations. Finding out new products which enhance the qual- ity, improving existing processes for making chemicals in order to use less capital expenditure and raw materials, finding methods of manufacturing that use and dis- pose of chemicals which do not harm the environment requires a huge investment of funds to run the system. There is a basic rule that is been followed in the chemical in- dustry in terms of production, invest huge capital to make a big plant so that there is less overhead and the product can be more produced more cheaply on the large scale. Apart from the capital, maintaining the norms in terms of global environ- ment regulations is one of the hectic tasks. Global regulatory involves a broad range of regulatory initiatives that relate to the social, environmen- tal and human rights responsibilities. Environment regulations have more impact on business than the econo- my. The increased import of various chemicals, intermediates and end products, and reduced import tariff by the government to meet the in- creasing demand of the country, has intensified the level of competition in the Indian chemical industry. The competition has increased margin- ally in the chemical industry in recent times. TVC: Product Specification : Unique in Product / USP of Product Textile Finishing Combining the latest technology with our innovative processes, we bring the perfect finish. Whether it’s infus- ing the smell of lavender into silk or taming the denim’s toughness or even helping white cotton retain their brightness, Resil has a refreshing col- lection of solutions to meet your eve- ry need. Textile Enzymes Resil brings a comprehensive list of value additions with our enzymes and textile process enhancers. Enzymes can alter the characteristics of almost any textile, and provide amazing ben- efits through their versatile nature. Poised to transform the industry with its applications, enzymes have defi- nitely conquered unchartered territo- ries in the textile industry. Functional Finishes Resil’s innovative performance finish solutions enhance the personality of your fabrics. From antimicrobial and fragrance finishes to anti-age- Exclusive Interview with Mr. M. S. Vijayan- Joint Managing Director Resil Chemicals Pvt.Ltd. INTERVIEW in Product / USP of Product“ ”
  • 31. 31 www.textilevaluechain.comJune 2017 ing, wrinkle-free, stain repellent and moisture management solutions, Re- sil offers finishes that serve a variety of needs. Textile Pre-treatment Resil offers comprehensive solutions for textiles such as wetting agents, lubricants, sequestering agents, per- oxide killers, fixing agents, levelling agents and washing off agents. Thread & Yarn Finishing At Resil, we believe that only the perfect thread or yarn makes a dif- ference. This perfection is as much a priority for us as excellence in fab- ric finishing is. Right from aqueous to antistatic, our finishes help make your thread Soft, sturdy, durable and comfortable. ActigoTM - Laser Booster Actigo™, from Resil Chemicals’ a pat- ent protected technology enables jeans manufacturers to move to a new process that eliminates the need for Potassium Permanganate (PP) used for denim bleaching. The technology acts only at the point of laser interaction by creating a natu- ral worn look with greater contrast when in comparison with the harmful PP spray garment finishes. Actigo™, is highly effective on a variety of arti- cles, including high stretch, dark and light finishes. N9 Pure SilverTM N9 Pure Silver™, along with its variant N9 Plastix™, is a family of silver-based antibacterial and hygiene solutions. It is based on a revolutionary Silver- based technology that, on contact, neutralizes odour-causing bacteria, keeping the treated product fresher for longer. It is a finish that can be applied to fab- rics or garments. This breakthrough technology delivers outstanding odour control performance, com- bined with impeccable environmental credentials and safety profile. CoolitTM Coolit™ is a sustainable cooling tech- nology that responds dynamically to body temperature and perspiration keeping people cool even when on the move. For cotton clothes, Coolit™ facilitates an endothermic reaction that absorbs body heat, generating a cooling effect of up to 3⁰C when in contact with sweat and moisture leav- ing the wearer feeling cool and com- fortable. NeuDriTM NeuDri™ was developed as a dynamic drying technology that rapidly wicks perspiration from the skin and trans- fers moisture to the fabric’s surface, leaving the wearer dry, comfortable, cool and confident. In addition to evaporation, NeuDri™ has excellent soil release, softening, and anti-static properties that ensure your sports- wear are not only comfortable but also supple and functional. SoladelTM Clothes can now be enabled to clean naturally which helps to reduce the use of harsh chemicals. SoladelTM uses the power of the sunlight to peel off any kind of organic dirt, easing the washing process, and preventing your favourite clothes from getting ruined. This textile treatment acts in a manner similar to photosynthesis, effectively breaking down organic dirt molecules and releasing them from the surface of the fabric. SilaideTM 4The growth of microorganisms on textiles can lead to functional, hygien- ic and aesthetic difficulties. The use of antimicrobial finishes to prevent un- pleasant odours on intimate apparel, underwear, sleepwear, socks, and athletic wear is an important market need. The odours are produced by the bacterial decomposition of sweat and other body fluids, and controlling bacterial growth by SILAIDE™ finish- ing eliminates this problem. CylantTM The growth of microorganisms on textiles can lead to functional, hygien- ic and aesthetic difficulties. The use of antimicrobial finishes to prevent un- pleasant odours on intimate apparel, underwear, sleepwear, socks, and athletic wear is an important market need. The odours are produced by the bacterial decomposition of sweat and other body fluids, and controlling bacterial growth by CYLANT™ finish- ing eliminates this problem. Purepel™ Textiles treated with Purepel™ offer superior durable water repellence and protection against water-based stains. Applicable to cellulosic, syn- thetics and blends. Maintains fabric breathability, making them comfort- able to wear. Pricing Strategy : Premium TVC: What is your product innova- tion approach? Resil has a dedicated in design team working around the clock at our in- house R&D centre. Our in- house R&D has the state-of-the-art facility to engage the team in innovative R&D activities such as development of new product/ technologies, design and en- gineering, improvements in process/ product/ design, developing new methods of analysis and testing, re- search for increased efficiency in use of resources such as capital equip- ment, material and energy, pollution control, effluent treatment and recy- cling of waste products or any other areas of research. TVC: Market Focus: Domestic or Export or both ( % of each in total revenue) Currently, we are working with vari- ous Indian apparel brands, pan India. We are also catering to some of the brands in the Middle East, US & Eu- ropean markets. The revenue gener- ated by our textile segment can be estimated to a percentage of 65% and holds a 12% of shares in the Indian textile finishing and auxiliary chemi- cals. TVC: How quality control is impor- tant in Industry ? Efficient quality control and accurate planning are key factors in achieving INTERVIEW
  • 32. www.textilevaluechain.com 32 June 2017 of quality for the products or services offered by companies in chemical in- dustry. Quality control and planning is of critical importance in the chemi- cal industry as it is critical to know exactly what chemicals, and of which grades are moving through the plant at any given time. The final outcome of products depends on the quality of chemicals used for manufacturing and processing purpose. Variations in the grade of chemicals being used and supplied may have a significant impact on overall plant performance. It could also damage the plant or be completely useless, resulting in seri- ous wastage of resources and capital. The control over the quality is impor- tant to determine that the output be- ing provided is of overall top quality. Quality control is essential for com- panies and industriesfor liability pur- poses, name recognition or branding, a positioning against the competition in the industry. TVC: Importance of sustainability, recycling and reuse In today’s time recycling is vital be- cause it not only saves businesses money but also create sustainability. Sustainability involves acting on how to ensure the continued survival, in- deed prosperity, of a business or in- dustry – indefinitely.In the millennium world, consumers perception of eco- friendly products, pressure groups and industries to promote sustain- ability, and therefore recycling. Re- cycling affects the chemical industry by providing business opportunities of getting profiting from recapturing the value of waste chemicals, both post-production and post-consumer. It also gives business opportunities for cost avoidance through the safe disposal of waste products. Recycling primarily reduces the net consump- tion of certain chemical inputs to manufacturing by returning recycled materials to the value chain.The in- dustries are focusing more towards the Green chemistry also known as the sustainable chemistry. Green chemistry is the area of chemistry and chemical engineering is focused on the designing of products and processes that minimize the use and generation of hazardous substances. Green chemistry focuses on techno- logical approaches to preventing pol- lution and reducing consumption of nonrenewable resources. Companies in the industry are focusing on pre- venting waste than to treat or clean up waste after it is formed, as it also helps in cost cutting. TVC: Major Challenges in Industry The chemical industry today is facing numerous challenges such as avail- ability of raw materials, infrastructure & environment, duty structures, man- power etc. Location of Indian bulk chemical industry in the West coast, especially Gujarat, due to close prox- imity of raw materials and ports re- sults in high transportation cost and distribution issues as majority of the demand comes from the end-use in- dustries located in the Southern and Eastern regions. Availability of cheap- er imported chemicals from low-cost manufacturing hubs like China give a major threat to Indian market. Lack of skilled manpower is also one the ma- jor issue faced by the industry. TVC: View on chemical market in India & overseas Chemical industry in India one of the diversified industry, covering around more than 80,000 commercial prod- ucts.India is the third largest pro- ducer in Asia and sixth largest in the world. It is the mainstay of industrial and agricultural development of the country and providing building blocks for various downstream industries such as textiles, papers, paints, soaps, detergents, pharmaceuticals, auto- motive products etc.With the high significance of chemical industry in Indian economy,industry is expected to double its share in global chemi- cal industry to 5-6% by 2021 regis- tering growth of 8-9% in the com- ing decade.Government recognizes Chemical Industry as a key growth element of Indian Economy and has introduced several policy measures in the Union Budget 2017-18 to pro- vide impetus to the manufacturing sector. The Chemicals Industry in In- dia is the principal consumer of its own products, consuming 33% of its output. With promising development slants in the Chemicals Industry, this inward utilization is additionally set to rise. With the continuous growth and development, the leading chemi- cal companies in India are investing on expanding their operational ca- pacity to meet ever growing chemical exports demand in India and abroad, attracting leading players from the international circuit to invest in India and become world’s top producer of chemicals. The two top countries that have been the major destinations for chemical exports from India for past several years include U.S.A and China. TVC: Company’s Business Strate- gies & Future Planning Started as a small manufacturing unit in 1994 with just five employees, to 300+ member organization, Resil chemicals has out grown with four internationally-certified manufactur- ing facilities with a capacity of 20,000 metric tons per year, exporting to more than 10 countries . It has also diversified into emerging technology- based products such as hand sani- tizers, disinfectants and automotive detailing products. Company has a full-fledged sales operation in Bang- ladesh and has made inroads into Sri Lanka, Turkey, Philippines, UK and Thailand, also looking at growing worldwide with our innovative prod- uct. To cover increasing demand, we have has just opened the fourth and largest state of the art unit at Malur, Karnataka. We are a strong believer in the India story and India will re- main our prime focus for the coming years.Resil Chemicals is a profession- ally managed company, but the next of gen has joined the company in var- ious capacities. INTERVIEW