Textile Value Chain- Aug 2022

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For QUALITY Products from Europe and EFFICIENT Services in India
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We represent in India the following Textile Machinery & Accessories manufacturers for
Technical Textiles :
LACOM GmbH, Germany : Hotmelt Laminating and Coating Systems – Multi
Purpose, Multi Roller, Gravure Roller and Slot Die for complete range of
Technical Textiles (Website: www.lacom-online.de)
MORCHEM S.A.U., Spain : PUR Hotmelt Adhesives for Technical Textiles, Solvent
Based, Water Based adhesives, cleaners and primers. (Website:
https://www.morchem.com/markets-and-solutions/textile-lamination/ )
Fibres, Waste Recycling & Nonwovens :
Margasa, Spain: Textile Hard Waste Recycling Lines -complete with preparation,
cutting, Storage, feeding, tearing, filtration and fiber packing. Peripheral
equipment, for nonwovens waste. Complete lines for “Airlay Nonwovens” with
thermo or resin bonding. Cotton Waste Cleaning Lines.
(Website: http://www.margasa.com)
FARE' S.p.A., Italy : Complete Lines for Spunbond / Meltblown nonwoven
products /complete line to produce all type of fibers including mono and
bicomponent including PET and PET fibers. Machines for producing Tapes and
Rafia (website : www.farespa.com)
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Mariplast Spa, Italy : All type of Yarn Carriers for spun and filament yarns -
Cylindrical Tubes, Roving Bobbins, Ring Frame Bobbins, Cones and one time use
and Reusable Dye Tubes (Website: www.mariplast.com)
C + L Textilmaschinen GmbH, Germany : Reeling (Yarn Hank Forming) Machines,
steaming, Bulking and Banding Machines for yarns ( Rep.for Western and
Southern India) (Website: www.croon-lucke.com)
Contact : ASTRA TECH INDIA E-mail : info@astratech.co.in Website: www.astratechindia.co.in
Contact Person : Mr. Hemant Dantkale
Mobile : 98201 06018 Phone No.: 022-28516018 E-mail : hdantkale@astratech.co.in
HEAD OFFICE:
406, “Kaveri” Jagannath Mandir Marg, Opp. Holiday Inn, Near Sakinaka Metro Station,
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B-404, Monarch Manor, 90 Feet Road, Dsouza Nagar, Kurla (West), MUMBAI – 400 072
Branch Office : Coimbatore : email: Coimbatore@astratech.co.in

5 AUG 2022
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9 AUG 2022
Table
of
CONTENT
12
15
50
57
60
6ϱ
69
10
COVER STORY
WASTE MANAGEMENT
PEER REVIEW PAPER
TECHNICAL TEXTILE
RETAIL UPDATE
MARKET REPORT
INTERVIEWS
BRAND UPDATE
EVENT UPDATE
COMPANY’S QUARTERL
Y RESULTS
EVENT CALENDAR
EDITORIAL
Corporate : IndoCount
Chemicals : Zydex
Skill Council : AMHSSC
IT TECH : DMIx
NTU Singapore & RGE Launch Research
Center
Biotech Pvt. Ltd.
Banarasi Brocade by SVVVP college
Professors and Students
India’s E-Commerce Industry Future by
Munish Tyagi
Export and Import : July 2022
Export Sarees
Yarn Exports
NanoFibers , watchword
15
ADVERTISER INDEX
Cover Page: Vatsal Export
Back page: Raymond
Front Inside : Rimtex
Back inside : Raysil
Page 3 : Le Merite
Page 4 : Astratech
Page 5 : Dodhia Group
Page 6 : Wellknown
Page 7 : Bruckner
Page 8 : Capximize
page 11 : Yash Machines
page 20 : GSCS
page 23 : Cosmo Chemicals
page 28 : A.T.E
page 36 : Meera Industries
page 42 : Uster
page 45 : IGM
page 49 : Bishnu Texport
Page 56 : Shahlon Silk
Page 59 : Texfab Industries
Page 64 : Ken India
Page 68 : Omax
Page 72 : Staubli
Page 75 : Saurer
page 77 : Ramkrishna Cotspin
page 80 : Chintamani
page 82 : Unitech Texmech
page 85 : Amritlakshmi
page 89 : Alliance Fibre
page 92 : Sakthi Textile
page 93 : Nonwoven Tech
Page 94 : Yarn Expo : Surat
Page 95 : SITEX 2023
Page 96 : Intertex Tunisia
Page 97 : DTG
Page 98 : India ITME 2022
Page 99 : VTG
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87
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79
24
29
37
43
44
46
48
58
83
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STAUBLI
BLUE SIGN
CMAI NGF
NIFT Orienta�on
Cosmo First
Vipul Organics
Garsim
Page Industries
Bata
V2 Retail

10 AUG 2022
All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of any of the content from this issue is
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in the articles published in this magazine are that of the respective authors and not
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errorsthatmightoccuroranystepstakenbasedintheinformationprovidedherewith.
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EDITOR AND PUBLISHER
Ms. Jigna Shah
EDITORIAL TEAM
marketing and advertising enquiry
Athleisure, a type of hybrid clothing, is a fabricated
style of clothing typically worn during athletic
activities and in other settings. This leisure wear is
also worn at the workplace, at school, or at other
casual or social occasions, says Wikipedia.
Now, let me give a slice of the cake all want to eat.
What I’m going to say is only a slice, and not the
whole cake. The word ‘athleisure’ is a recently
coined word by the industry and may be by some
interested parties who have a liking for blending
words to make this word. In today’s world everyone
knows the meaning of this word, for it expresses
the meanings of what is leisure and athletes, and
also what the wearers of both these groups wear….
Let’s get to the point.
Athleisure is a blend of sportswear and leisurewear.
The global sportswear market size was estimated
at US$ 262.51 billion in 2019 and is expected to
reach US$ 288.42 billion in 2020. After 2020, Covid
came and industry’s as well as the consumers’
interest sagged a bit. I read another report that
says Sportswear’s global market has already hit
US$ 533.5 billion in 2020. Latest news says that
inflation is under control and that industrial growth
is returning to normal, though little slowly. Another
information source says that the US inflation will be
tackled by the Administration. Hopes are returning
as the consumers are starting to crowd malls &
super markets, and the industry and retailers piling
up the stock waiting for the festival melas to start.
When I was writing, Raksha Bhandan and the
Independence day celebrations are over.
The Sportech is one of the fast-paced sectors of
technical textile the shares of which is around 7%
of Indian technical textiles market. The Sportech
segment has grown at a CAGR of 19.58% between
2017-18 and 2019-20. The Indian Government’s
statistics falls a little short of expectations, but
Covid can be defended by anyone for little activities
in the industry and elsewhere. It’s true too.
Sports textiles may get some connection with
Hometech also. There are enough hints. This is a
time for amalgamation and mergers of ingredients
to make a good cake (pun intended). Caution:
The writer is only giving a bird’s eye view of the
sportswear & athleisure.
Read our Cover Story for a bigger slice!
A Slice All Want to
Enjoy!
CREATIVE DESIGNER
Mr. Ganesh Shinde
ADVISOR - EDITORIAL & MARKETING
Mr. Samuel Joseph
EDITORIAL ASSISTANT
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- Samuel Joseph

www.yashtex.com sales@yashtex.com
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12 AUG 2022
SPORTS
TEXTILE
BLENDS WITH
LEISUREWEAR!
In today’s world, sportswear is almost
synonymous with athleisure because after
the ravaging of Covid, which is still lingering
around, both these genres & their brands are fighting
for space in the retailers shops. Both the fitness and
sports brands are vying for more space in shops they
sell. The retailers will surely benefit till the festival
season is over. The hypermarket and supermarket
are looking out for a larger market share of functional
apparel because most of the products/ services are
conveniently available at a low rate in such stores.
These stores promote the availability of practical
fashion items, both branded and private label, says
a report that appeared recently. Leading companies
comprising Nike Inc., Adidas AG, Asics Corporation,
Hanes Brand Inc., Reebok, Jockey International Inc.,
Russell Brands LLC, PUMA S.E., Hugo Boss AG, and
Columbia Sportwear Company, among others are
verykeentoknowwhatishappeninginthefunctional
garment market.
The global sportswear market size was estimated at
US$ 262.51 billion in 2019 and was expected to reach
US$ 288.42 billion in 2020. Sportswear, identical to
the word activewear, is used for sporting events
and exercise, which comprises all the paraphernalia
like jogger pants, yoga pants, and even sports bras.
Sportswear’s global market hit US$ 533.5 billion in
2020. The sportswear industry is one of the fastest
runners in the clothing industries, spurred by current
global clothing trends. It is interesting to note here
current reports indicate the market revenue doubled
over the years. The sudden upsurge is due to the fact
that sportswear as casual wear demand from the
public is going up & up.
Other trends noticeable is that the variety of goods
dealing with this industry is also expanding. Not only
customers are interested in this market. Producers,
sportswear companies, designers, fashionista’s
involved with all these segments, etc and so on & on.
The word ‘athleisure’ is a recently coined word by the
industry and may be by some interested parties who
have a liking for blending words to make this word.
In today’s world everyone knows the meaning of this
word, for it expresses the meanings of what is leisure
and athletes. Both are sought by the industry that
is making athleisure as well as the consumers, who
are seeking comfort, ease, fashion, etc. In short who
wants to buy athleisure? Young consumers from the
age of 16 to 30 are behind its growth, who are keen
to dress younger and feel younger. Some old people
cannot be ruled out because one sees many senior
citizensaretodaygoingforwalks,evenlightjogging&
even ‘gymming’ because fitness and comfort are two
of their focus on their minds doing these activities.
Causal wearers and yoga enthusiasts are also looking
for athleisure. Fitness and health-consciousness is
the driving forces behind this mounting demand.
India’s domestic Sportech market is ruled by the
Sports Footwear Components category which
covers more than three-fourths of the segment’s
share of market. Technical textiles elements in
Sports Composites come the next bigger share of
the market. Though artificial turf is a man-made
fibre (synthetic fibre) surface that is often used as
an alternative to natural grass, the technology has
gone through a paradigm shift in the last some years
and the latest team of artificial grass includes three
different players of plastic: polypropylene (PP),
polyethylene (most widely used) and nylon (durable
polyamide). Turf as many know, is a technical textile
COVER
STORY
- Samuel Joseph

13 AUG 2022
end-product which is often used in place of a lawn
in any setting, sports like football and lawn tennis or
otherwise on can even see on wedding receptions
halls. The usage may expand in application if it is
biodegradable, feel many. And already research is
ongoing with many claiming that man-made fibres
can be made biodegradable.
(Read the Dr. Mahapatra’s article under the COVER
STORY section in this issue)
The Sportech is one of the fast-paced sectors of
technical textile the shares of which is around 7% of
Indiantechnicaltextilesmarket.Sportstextilesectoris
categorised into three major categories: Sportswear,
sport goods and sport accessories. Further, Sportech
comprises of technical textile products used in sports
and leisure such as sport shoes, sports composites,
flying and sailing sports, parachute fabrics, artificial
turf, ballooning fabrics etc. The use high functional
and smart textiles have proven their high level of
performance and succeeded in their functional
properties. According to the functional requirements
of sports, special apparels for specific sports are
manufactured. Many fibres, yarns, fabrics and
finishes have been developed to meet the needs of
the sports sector. Sports textiles have some special
features, which have been made possible by the use
of high-tech and smart textile technology. Sports
textiles must have the features of adaptability, easy
to wear, easy handling etc. and also the ability to
transport heat and moisture i.e., fast drying and
cooling function. Moreover, sports textiles have
very high electrical conductivity, so they must have
anti-static performance and also be resistant to anti-
microbial apart from its ability to provide protection
from ultraviolet rays, air and water permeability,
low water absorption of the layer of clothing facing
the skin. Moisture absorption, strength, durability,
lightness, thermal conductivity, etc.
The Sportech segment has grown at a CAGR of 19.58
per cent between 2017-18 and 2019-20. Moreover,
more than 10 per cent of revenue of the segment
has come from exports during this period. Sports
shoes and sportswear accounts for majority of sales
revenue of the segment, with their share hovering
from 60-80 per cent. The average utilisation of the
production capacity in the Sportech segment has
increased from 60 per cent in 2017-18 to 87 per cent
in 2019-20. The actual production has consistently
risen from 2017-18 to 2019-20. According to the
Government sources, Textile Research Associations
(most of them), Centres of Excellence (Wool Research
Association), Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS),
Academic Institutions, Apex Industry Associations,
other Manufacturers Associations, Focus Incubation
Centres and Technology Parks are the focus areas
in India. Artificial turf includes areas covering high
performance sportswear and swimwear, parachute
fabrics, sleeping bags, sports composites, sports
footwear components, tents, ballooning fabrics,
sports nets, sports strings & so on. The Government
has put Sportech as almost the last category for
obvious reasons and also due to the fact that
Sportech is yet to develop in a big way in India.
Sportech includes innovation, and the Government
opines that technical textile is revealing new
applications and opportunities driven by technology-
led innovations. Countries and enterprises that are
investing in developing new technologies, fostering
innovation, encouraging entrepreneurship and
upgrading their system of teaching and training
human resources have taken a lead over others in
establishing themselves as major sources of supply
of technical textiles machines and products. The
experience so far suggests that such countries and
enterprises also form collaborations and leverage
networks to share knowledge and introduce
innovations. Technical textile-interested parties are
also significant sources of supply, and also the main
consumers of technical textiles.
The Indian Government indicates in a study that
China, USA and Germany, are not only leading
countries for production and exports of technical
textile but also are its three leading consumers. These
three countries put together account for more than
60% of the value of global annual output of technical
textiles. China is the largest producer, accounting for
nearly one-third of global production; USA accounts
for one-fourth of the global production. These
two countries also happen to be the two largest
consumers of technical textiles. Exports from Chinese
technical textile industry comprise a significant part
of international trade in all segments of technical
textiles.
However, the Government sees certain reasons
behind the reasons for the low volume of Sportech
awareness in the industry. One such reason is a lack
of good converters to finished products in Indian
textile supply as well as lack of collaboration between
industry and technical institutions for research &
development. The Government adds more to cover

14 AUG 2022
this gap:
y
y There is a huge gap between R&D
laboratories where product development for
technical textiles takes place and the fabric
producers; The lack of facilities to promote
manufacturing of raw materials and inputs has
created a disadvantage for Indian Clothtech
manufacturers especially in export markets;
y
y In Clothtech segment, lack of local machine
manufacturing has resulted in high dependence
of Indian Clothtech producers on machines
imported from China; Because of insufficient
consumer demand which discourages local
investors and entrepreneurs, many products of
the Sportech segment are not manufactured
in India and have to be imported from outside;
There is lack of raw material manufacturing
capacity in the country for Sportech industry;
y
y The Hometech industry, which also uses man-
made fibres, is characterised by low levels of
commercialisation of new products and lack
of access to advancement in new technology;
It was highlighted that India is the largest
producer of cotton. Farm level traceability (that
is required by markets in developed countries)
of Indian grown cotton is not practiced in India’s
textile supply chain; One more important fact
is the lack of branding of cotton fibre (we only
have Kasturi Cotton). These two deficiencies
have a huge negative impact on acceptability
of Indian Hometech products by international
buyers; India fulfils its requirement of speciality
fibres through import from China, Japan, USA or
EU countries;
y
y Even though India has ample natural
fibre resources, it has lagged behind in
commercialisation of these fibres due to
processing and manufacturing difficulties; There
is very little collaboration among industry,
academia and researchers towards better
utilisation of advanced technology.
The global sports goods industry has been expanding
rapidly on account of factors such as growing focus
of governments towards promoting sports activities
and events, rising disposable incomes, changing
lifestyle, increasing fitness awareness, as well as
increasing sports participation, particularly in the
developing economies. According to the Global
Wellness Institute, globally, the per capita consumer
spending on sports and recreation activities stands
at nearly US$ 90 per year, which is indicative of the
significant potential demand for sports goods. On
the back of the growing demand, the revenues of
the global sports goods sector recorded a Compound
Annual Growth Rate (CAGR)
of nearly 5.2 per cent during
2012 to 2019, to reach an
estimated US$ 126.2 billion
in 2019.
The Under Union Budget
2020-21,aNationalTechnical
Textiles Mission was
proposed for a period from
2020-21 to 2023-24 at an
estimated outlay of Rs. 1,480
crore. In the same budget,
the Government of India allocated
around Rs. 3,515 crores to the Ministry of Textiles
and Rs. 80 crore for the Integrated Textile Parks
Scheme. The Government has launched production-
linked incentive scheme to provide incentives for
manufacture and exports of specific textile products
made from man-made fibre. Under this scheme,
the government has approved Rs. 10,683 Crores
for manufacture of manmade fibres and technical
textiles
The Governmental information board does not
give much details on Sportech because sports
textiles is only a fast-growing child in India, showing
greater appetite for big growth. It holds out
much information on technical textiles in general,
according to the understanding of this writer. Neither
can we get much information from all sources,
but some good information on only sports goods
thanks to rise in sports awareness as a result of India
getting recognition in this country and abroad with
newspapers giving greater coverage by increasing
the number of pages. Advertisers are keen to battle
it out with bigger personalities like Sunil Gavaskar,
Sachin Tendulkar & also Virat Kohli (still the much-
watched ads on TV & elsewhere) and all who get
their money’s worth. This crowd is also running
faster because they are ready to get medals’ (Read,
‘money’) worth.
Afterall, the writer has to end with the most-seen
sports on many places in India, particularly ‘amchi’
Mumbai.
(Creative Commons 4.0 BY-NC)

15 AUG 2022
ARTIFICIAL TURF: FIBRES & FUTURE
Dr. N. N. Mahapatra
The author talks about fibres, manufacturing, installation, quality control
and a few other issues as a part of technological developments related to
sports textiles.
The high cost of growing and maintaining natural
grass was one of the main driving forces behind
the formation of artificial turf, which is a material
made with synthetic fibres and resembles natural
grass. Today, artificial turf or synthetic turf is gaining
in popularity and is not only found in some of the
world’s most important sports arenas, but also in
residential lawns and commercial buildings. David
Chany – who moved to Raleigh, North Carolina, in
1960 and later served as Dean of the North Carolina
StateUniversityCollegeofTextiles–headedtheteam
of Research Triangle Park researchers who created
the first notable artificial turf. That accomplishment
led Sports Illustrated to declare Chaney as the man
“responsible for indoor major league baseball and
millions of welcome mats.”
Artificial turf was first installed in 1964 on a prep
school recreation area in Rhode Island. The material
came to public prominence in 1966, when AstroTurf
was installed in the Astrodome in Houston, Texas.
The state-of-the-art indoor stadium had attempted
to use natural grass during its initial season in 1965,
but this failed miserably and the field conditions
were grossly inadequate during the second half
of the season, with the dead grass painted green.
Due to a limited supply of the new artificial grass,
only the infield was installed before the Houston
Astros’ home opener in April 1966, the outfield was
installed in early summer during an extended Astros
Road trip and first used after the All-Star Break in
July.
The use of AstroTurf and similar surfaces became
widespreadintheU.S.andCanadaintheearly1970s,
installed in both indoor and outdoor stadiums used
for baseball and football. More than 11,000 artificial
turf playing fields have been installed nationally.
More than 1,200 were installed in the U.S. in 2013
alone, according to the industry group the Synthetic
Turf Council.
Maintaining a grass playing surface indoors, while
technically possible, is prohibitively expensive. Teams
whochosetoplayonartificialsurfacesoutdoorsdidso
because of the reduced maintenance cost, especially
in colder climates with urban multi-purpose “cookie
cutter” stadiums such as Cincinnati’s Riverfront
Stadium, Pittsburgh’s Three Rivers Stadium and
Philadelphia’s Veterans Stadium.
With the number of indoor, domed or partially
covered sports arenas increasing, the need for
artificial turf has increased exponentially in recent
years, as natural grass would require sunlight to grow.
The first-generation of artificial turf, known as Astro
turf, was primarily short-pile fibres without infill.
The second-generation turf system used sand infills.
Today, however, third-generation turf systems are the
most popular, and this use infills that are mixtures of
sand and recycled rubber.
Astro Turf is an American brand name. Itwas invented
by Donald Elbert, James Faria, and Robert Wright for
sports use. It was given its name when in 1966 when
it was installed in the Houston Astrodome stadium.
... Since Astro Turf was invented, artificial grass
products have changed beyond recognition. COVER
STORY
Business Head (Dyes)
Shree Pushkhar Chemicals and Fertilisers Ltd.
cc- signatureturf.com.au

16 AUG 2022
ARTIFICIAL TURF
In the early 1950s, the tufting process was invented.
A large number of needles insert filaments of fibre
into a fabric backing. Then a flexible adhesive like
polyurethane or polyvinyl chloride is used to bind the
fibres to the backing. This is the procedure used for
the majority of residential and commercial carpets. A
tufting machine can produce a length of carpet that
is 15 ft (4.6 m) wide and more than 3 ft (1 m) long in
one minute.
In the early 1960s, the Ford Foundation, as part of
its mission to advance human achievement, asked
science and industry to develop synthetic playing
surfaces for urban spaces. They hoped to give urban
childrenyear-roundplayareaswithbetterplayquality
and more uses than the traditional concrete, asphalt,
and compacted soil of small urban playgrounds. In
1964, the first installation of the new playing surface
called Chemgrass was installed at Moses Brown
School in Providence, Rhode Island.
In 1966, artificial turf was first used in professional
major-leaguesportsandgaineditsmostfamousbrand
name when the Astrodome was opened in Houston,
Texas. By the first game of the 1966 season, artificial
turf was installed, and the brand name Chemgrass
was changed to AstroTurf. (Although the name
AstroTurf is used as a common name for all types
of artificial turf, the name is more accurately used
only for the products of the AstroTurf Manufacturing
Company.)
Artificial turf also found its way into the applications
for which it was originally conceived, and artificial
turf was installed at many inner-city playgrounds.
Some schools and recreation centers took advantage
of artificial turfs properties to convert building roofs
into “grassy” play areas.
After the success of the Astrodome installation,
the artificial turf market expanded with other
manufacturers entering the field, most notably
the 3M (Minnesota Mining and Manufacturing)
Company with its version known as Tartan Turf. The
widespread acceptance of artificial turf also led to
the boom in closed and domed stadium construction
around the world.
In the early 1970s, artificial turf came under
scrutiny due to safety and quality concerns. Some
installations, often those done by the number of
companies that sprang up to cash in on the trend,
began to deteriorate. The turf would wear too
quickly, seams would come apart, and the top layer
would soon degrade from exposure to sunlight.
Athletes and team doctors began to complain about
the artificial surfaces, and blamed the turf for friction
burns and blisters. Natural turf yields to the force of
a blow, but an arm or leg driven along the unyielding
surface of artificial turf is more likely to be injured.
Since artificial turf does not have the same cooling
effects as natural turf, surface temperatures can be
30° warmer above the artificial surfaces. Baseball
players claimed that a ball would bounce harder and
in less predictable ways, and some soccer players
claimed that the artificial surface makes the ball
roll faster, directly affecting the game. However, the
National Football League and the Stanford Research
Institute declared in 1974 that artificial turf was not
a health hazard to professional football players, and
its use continued to spread.
In the 1990s, biological turf began to make a
comeback when a marketing of nostalgia in
professional sport resulted in the re-emergence of
outdoor stadiums. Many universities—responding
to the nostalgia, advances in grass biology, and the
fears about increased risk of injury on artificial turf—
began to reinstall natural turf systems. However,
natural turf systems continue to require sunlight
and maintenance (mowing, watering, fertilizing,
aerating), and the surface may deteriorate in heavy
rain. Artificial turf offers a surface that is nearly
maintenance-free, does not require sunlight, and
has a drainage system. Recent developments in
the artificial turf industry are new systems that
have simulated blades of grass supported by an
infill material so the “grass” does not compact. The
resulting product is closer to the look and feel of
grass than the older, rug-like systems. Because of
these factors, artificial turf will probably continue to
be a turf surface option for communities, schools,
and professional sports teams.
It is a surface of synthetic fibres made to look like
natural grass. It is most often used in arenas for
sports that were originally or are normally played on
grass. However, it is now being used on residential
lawns and commercial applications as well. The
main reason is maintenance—artificial turf stands
up to heavy use, such as in sports, and requires
no irrigation or trimming. Domed, covered, and
partially covered stadiums may require artificial turf
because of the difficulty of getting grass enough

17 AUG 2022
sunlight to stay healthy. Artificial turf does have its
downside, however: limited life, periodic cleaning
requirements, petroleum use, toxic chemicals from
infill, and heightened health and safety concerns.
Artificial turf first gained substantial attention in the
1960s, when it was used in the newly constructed
Astrodome.Thespecificproductusedwasdeveloped
by Monsanto and called AstroTurf; this term since
thenbecameagenerictrademarkforanyartificialturf
throughout the late 20th century. AstroTurf remains
a registered trademark, but is no longer owned by
Monsanto. The first-generation turf systems (i.e.,
short-pile fibres without infill) of the 1960s have
been largely replaced by the second generation and
third generation turf systems. Second generation
synthetic turf systems feature longer fibres and sand
infills, and third generation systems, which are most
widely used today, offer infills that are mixtures of
sand and granules of recycled rubber.
The quality of the raw materials is crucial to the
performance of turf systems. Almost anything used
as a carpet backing has been used for the backing
material, from jute to plastic to polyester. High
quality artificial turf uses polyester tire cord for the
backing.
Thefibresthatmakeupthebladesof“grass”aremade
of nylon or polypropylene and can be manufactured
in different ways. The nylon blades can be produced
in thin sheets that are cut into strips or extruded
through moulds to produce fibres with a round or
oval cross-section. The extruded product results in
blades that feel and act more like biological grass.
Cushioning systems are made from rubber
compounds or from polyester foam. Rubber tires are
sometimes used in the composition of the rubber
base, and some of the materials used in backing
can come from plastic or rubber recycling programs.
The thread used to sew the pads together and also
the top fabric panels has to meet the same criteria
of strength, colour retention, and durability as the
rest of the system. Care and experience must also
be applied to the selection of the adhesives used to
bond all the components together.
The Manufacturing Process
Artificial turf is made from nylon or polypropylene
fibres that are dyed green to take on the appearance
of grass, and a backing that is probably made from
polyester tyre cord covered in a layer of latex. It is
made in a similar way to carpet: a yarn is made that
is then inserted into the backing with a needle in a
process called ‘tufting’ and then fixed with the latex.
Astroturf is so-called because it came to prominence
in 1966 when it was used in the Astrodome, the
indoor stadium of baseball team, the Houston Astros.
It was installed to replace the real turf that had been
starved of sunlight when the acrylic roof panels
were painted white to cut down glare that affected
players. Artificial turf has the benefit of being much
easier and cheaper to maintain than real grass, but
has its own drawbacks, one of which is the friction
burns caused through sliding on astroturf. The use of
polyethylene yarns in the most recent turfs has is an
attempt to eliminate this problem.
The fibres are made from the highest quality resin
pellets, which are melted down to create artificial
turf fibres. It is during this process in which we add
our UV inhibitors and other additives that help ensure
our turf products will last. Since these features are
built-in to the turf, they do not fade or wash away
over time. This process of melting the resins to create
the yarn is called extrusion.
It does seem like there are a lot of complicated steps
in the manufacturing process, which is why you
should be very picky about the artificial grass you
choose for your project. As you can see, there are
two main components to manufacturing synthetic
turf: extrusion and tufting/coating. Many companies
will purchase their yarn from overseas and tuft it
in their own facility or extrude the yarn themselves
and hire a third party to do the tufting. In both of
these situations, the turf “manufacturer” sacrifices
control over the process, which also means they
sacrifice quality assurance. If quality and American
made products are of importance to you, be sure you

18 AUG 2022
do your homework and know exactly what you are
getting. At ProGreen, we have complete control from
start to finish, and we can proudly stand behind our
products as we know every single thing that went
into making them.
The “grass” part of a turf system is made with the
same tufting techniques used in the manufacture of
carpets.
y
y The first step is to blend the proprietary
ingredients together in a hopper. Dyes and
chemicals are added to give the turf its
traditional green color and to protect it from the
ultraviolet rays from the sun.
y
y After the batch has been thoroughly blended,
it is fed into a large steel mixer. The batch is
automatically mixed until it has a thick, taffy-like
consistency.
y
y The thickened liquid is then fed into an extruder,
and exits in a long, thin strand of material.
y
y The strands are placed on a carding machine
and spun into a loose rope. The loose ropes are
pulled, straightened, and woven into yarn. The
nylon yarn is then wound onto large spools.
y
y The yarn is then heated to set the twisted
shaped.
y
y Next, the yarn is taken to a tufting machine. The
yarn is put on a bar with skewers (a reel) behind
the tufting machine. It is then fed through a
tube leading to the tufting needle. The needle
pierces the primary backing of the turf and
pushes the yarn into the loop. A looper, or flat
hook, seizes and release the loop of nylon while
the needle pulls back up; the backing is shifted
forward and the needle once more pierces the
……..?
How the ingredients of artificial turf are blended
Backing further on. This process is carried out by
several hundred needles, and several hundred rows
of stitches are carried out per minute. The nylon yarn
is now a carpet of artificial turf.
y
y The artificial turf carpet is now rolled under a
dispenser that spreads a coating of latex onto
the underside of the turf. At the same time,
a strong secondary backing is also coated
with latex. Both of these are then rolled onto
a marriage roller, which forms them into a
sandwich and seals them together.
y
y The artificial turf is
then placed under
heat lamps to cure
the latex.
y
y The turf is fed
through a machine
that clips off any
tufts that rise above
its uniform surface.
y
y Then the turf is
rolled into large
v/lengths and
packaged. The rolls
are then shipped to
the wholesaler.
Installation
Artificial turf installation and maintenance is as
important as its construction.
y
y The base of the installation, which is either
concrete or compacted soil, must be levelled by
a bulldozer and then smoothed by
y
y A profile of artificial turf.
y
y A steam roller. Uneven surfaces will still be
evident once the turf is supplied.
y
y For outdoor applications, intricate drainage
systems must be installed, since the underlying
surface can absorb little, if any, rainwater.
Turf systems can be either filled or unfilled.
A filled system is designed so that once it is
installed, a material such as crumbled cork,
rubber pellets, or sand (or a mixture) is spread
over the turf and raked down in between the
fibres. The material helps support the blades
of fibre, and also provides a surface with
some give, that feels more like the soil under
a natural grass surface. Filled systems have
some limitations, however. Filling material like
cork may break down or the filling material can
become contaminated with dirt and become
compacted. In either case the blades are no

19 AUG 2022
longer supported. Maintenance may require
removing and replacing all of the fill.
Quality Control
Because of the high use of artificial turf and the
constant scrutiny by professional athletes, new
products must undergo a number of tests as they
are being developed. In 1994, the American Society
for Testing and Materials (ASTM) published a list of
standard methods for the testing of synthetic turf
systems. It contains over two dozen tests for the
properties of turf systems.
As part of ASTM’s testing, the backing fabric is
tested for strength. The force it takes to separate the
individual tufts or blades is also measured. In tufted
turf, this test usually measures the strength of the
adhesive involved. To test how resistant the turf is
to abrasion, the ASTM recommends testing the
fabric by running it under an abrasive head made of
spring steel, while another ASTM test measures how
abrasive the turf will be to the players. The ASTM
also has tests that measure the shock absorbency of
the turf system, and there are also tests to see how
well the turf stands up during the course of a game
or even prolonged tournament play.
Several quality checks are performed during the
manufacturing process, as well. For example,
according to AstroTurf Incorporated, the following
quality checks are performed: 19 checks for the raw
materials, eight checks for extrusion, six checks for
unfinished fabric, and 14 checks for finished fabric.
Byproducts/Waste
Defected artificial turf batches are discarded as
are nylon yarn that is damaged. Completed turf is
generally recycled, but not reused as artificial turf.
The earth that is cleared from the installation site
is transported to a landfill and discarded. Older turf
that has been worn down is typically recycled.
The arguments about the environmental impact of
artificial versus biological turf continue. Both create
large amount of water run-off, adding to sewage
problems. Chemical processes are used in the
manufacture of raw materials for artificial turf, but
most biological grass in stadium applications requires
chemicals in the form of fertilizer and pesticides for
maintenance.
The Future
The engineering and design of both artificial and
biological turf systems are constantly improving. As
new stadiums are built, the owners and architects
strive to give a more old-fashioned feel to the
structures, which usually means no dome or a dome
that allows the use of biological turf.
Recent installations of artificial turf have included
new advancements that serve both economic and
environmental needs. Large holding tanks are built
beneath outdoor installations. The water that runs
off the surface is held in the tanks, and used later for
watering practice fields or nearby lawns.
Another recent development has been a hybrid of
filled turf and biological grass. Once artificial turf is
installed, it is filled not with rubber or sand, but with
soil. Grass seed is then planted in the soil, nurtured
and grown to a height above that of the artificial turf.
The resulting combination combines the feel, look,
and comfort of biological turf with the resilience
and resistance to tearing and divots of artificial turf.
Of course, it also requires all the maintenance of
both systems, and it is not suitable for most indoor
applications.
CC - (Sports Labs)

20 AUG 2022

21 AUG 2022
NTU SINGAPORE & RGE LAUNCH
S$6 MILLION RESEARCH CENTRE TO
TACKLE TEXTILE WASTE
Nanyang Technological University, Singapore
(NTUSingapore)andRoyalGoldenEagle(RGE),
a global resources-based manufacturing
group, has launched the RGE-NTU Sustainable Textile
Research Centre (RGE-NTU SusTex) to accelerate
innovation in textile recycling and translate research
outcomesintopracticalsolutionsthatcanbedeployed
in urban settings like Singapore. Researchers in the
S$6 million joint research centre will look into areas
such as next-generation eco-friendly and sustainable
textiles, and refabricating textile waste into fibre.
The aim is to study the chemistry of various textile
materials and determine the optimal processes and
techniques required to bring us closer to a circular
textile economy. This is in line with Singapore’s Zero
Waste vision, as well as the Singapore Green Plan
2030.
The research centre, located at NTU’s School of
Materials Science and Engineering, was officially
launched on August 5, 2022 by Ms Grace Fu,
Singapore’s Minister for Sustainability and the
Environment.
It comes at a time when an estimated 92 million
tonnes of textile waste [1] is created globally each
year.Only12percentofthematerialusedforclothing
ends up being recycled. The textile industry itself is
responsible for 10 per cent of global greenhouse gas
emissions [2] – more than international flights and
maritime shipping combined.
NTU President Professor Subra Suresh said: “The
goal of the RGE-NTU Sustainable Textile Research
Centre (RGE-NTU SusTex) is very much aligned with
Singapore’s zero waste vision to build a sustainable,
resource-efficient and climate-resilient nation.
This partnership between NTU and RGE draws on
RGE’s industry experience as a global resources-
based manufacturing group and leverages NTU’s
intellectual assets in materials and environmental
chemistry.”
RGE Executive Director, Perry Lim, said: “We want to
contribute where we can achieve the most impact.
More countries are banning the import of waste
including textile waste. However, current textile
recycling technologies, which rely on a bleaching and
separation process using heavy chemicals, cannot be
implemented in urban settings such as Singapore.
This is where RGE can help, drawing on our 20 years
of experience in viscose fibre making, to provide
S$6 million in funding to establish the research
centre and fund its work; share our global R&D
expertise as the world’s largest viscose producer;
and to potentially scale up the viable innovations
and solutions across our global operations. Backed
by Singapore’s strong research ecosystem and
leveraging NTU’s engineering capabilities, we aim
to catalyse innovation and develop a first-of-its-kind
urban-fit textile recycling solution.”
NTU Senior Vice President (Research) Professor Lam
Khin Yong said: “Collaboration between universities
waste
manangement
Source: Nanyang Technological University,
Singapore ; RGE

22 AUG 2022
and the industry has never been more important to
tackle today’s complex social, environmental and
economic challenges. The RGE-NTU SusTex is yet
another example of how the culture of collaboration
with industry is embedded in NTU’s innovation
ecosystem. Such collaborations allow for a healthy
exchange of ideas and know-how between industry
and academia, and help pave the way for the
translation of research ideas, maximising the reach
and impact of NTU’s research for society’s benefit.”
Singapore Economic Development Board’s (EDB)
Senior Vice President, Dino Tan said: “The successful
launch of RGE-NTU SusTex is a testament to EDB’s
efforts in connecting our corporates with Singapore’s
research institutes. We are confident that by
combining RGE’s manufacturing expertise with
NTU’s research capabilities, the new research centre
will represent a significant step towards meeting
Singapore’s sustainable manufacturing goals. We
look forward to forging more such partnerships,
to support the development of innovative green
technologies and solutions that can be scaled in
Singapore and the region.”
The joint research centre is part of NTU’s ambition
andeffortstomitigateourimpactontheenvironment
under its NTU 2025 strategic plan, and builds on
RGE’s sustainability commitment, part of which is to
explore how waste can also be used as a resource to
generate new materials.
Drivinghigh-impactresearchthroughinterdisciplinary
collaboration
The RGE-NTU SusTex leverages the University’s
emphasis on interdisciplinary collaboration to
catalyse high-impact research and take innovative
ideas from the lab to the real world. It also builds
on RGE’s wealth of industry experience and strong
manufacturing capabilities. EDB seeded the
relationship between NTU and RGE
when the idea of an urban-fit textile recycling centre
was first germinated last year.
Thejointresearchcentrewilldrawupontheexpertise
of NTU scientists in the School of Materials Science
and Engineering and the School of Chemical and
Biomedical Engineering.
It will look into four research areas:
•Cleaner and more energy efficient methods
of recycling: looking at greener ways of textile
recycling, with a focus on cellulose-based fabrics
including rayon, viscose and cotton, minimising the
degradation of fabric properties, and refabricating
textile waste into fibre;
•Automated sorting of textile waste: using a
combination of advanced spectroscopic techniques
and machine learning capabilities for identifying and
sorting textile waste based on fibre composition,
and developing an automated system to remove
accessories such as zips and buttons;
•Eco-friendly dye removal: developing eco-
friendly methods of removing dye from textile
waste using little to zero chlorinated chemicals,
and formulating greener and biodegradable dye
substitutes;
•New textiles: finding alternative uses for
textile by-products and developing a new generation
of eco-friendly and smart textiles with attributes
such as moisture insensitivity, electrical conductivity,
and infrared/ ultraviolet radiation reflectivity.
Leading the joint research centre in these research
projects is Professor Hu Xiao from the NTU School of
Materials Science and Engineering, who is also the
director of the Environmental Chemistry & Materials
Centre at NTU’s Nanyang Environment & Water
Research Institute.
In conjunction with the establishment of the RGE-
NTU SusTex, RGE plans to build a textile recycling pilot
plant that is low carbon, low chemical emissions, and
energy efficient in Singapore. The new sustainable
textile recycling solutions developed under the RGE-
NTU SusTex are expected to be test bedded in this
pilot plant.
[1] Why clothes are so hard to recycle, BBC, 13
Jul 2020
[2] The impact of textile production and waste
on the environment, European Parliament
News, 26 Apr 2022

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24 AUG 2022
BIOTECH FOR DEGRADATION
OF DYES FROM INDUSTRIAL
WASTEWATER
The use of dyes dates back to the advent
of the neolithic age for artistic works and
colouring fabric. Over time, the demand
for dyes has increased due to their ability to improve
aesthetics or commercial value of products. Dyes
are now used in textile, paint, cosmetics, paper,
food industries and printing technologies. They
adhere to compatible surfaces by forming various
bonds or complexes with salts or metals, by physical
adsorption or by mechanical retention. Most of the
naturally occurring dyes originate from plant sources
like leaves, berries, barks, fungi, flowers etc. whereas
the synthetic dyes which has the most application is
derived from petrochemicals. Ever since the advent
of synthetic dye technology, synthetic dyes have
overtaken the use of natural dyes due to availability
of broad range of colour, stronger bonding and colour
stability ability at a lesser cost.
The dyestuff sector is one of the core chemical
industries in India. It is also the second highest export
segment in chemical industry. The Indian dyestuff
industry is made up of about 1,000 small scale units
and 50 large organized units, who produce around
1,30,000tonnesofdyestuff.MaharashtraandGujarat
account for 90% of dyestuff production in India due
to the availability of raw materials and dominance of
textile industry in these regions. The major users of
dyes in India are textiles, paper, plastics, printing ink
and foodstuffs. At present, India contributes about
6% of the share in the global market with a CAGR of
more than 15% in the last decade. The dye markets
are mostly dominated by reactive and disperse dyes.
Dyes and dye intermediates consist of basic dyes;
azo acid and direct dyes; disperse dyes; fast colour
bases; reactive dyes; sulphur dyes; vat dyes; organic
pigments; naphthols; and optical brighteners. Market
demand for dye and dye intermediates is expected to
grow at a Compounded Annual Growth Rate (CAGR)
of 4.7%, from 652,000 tonnes in 2004-05 to 900,000
tonnesin2010-11andestimatedtoreachastonishing
volume of 5722000 increasing at CAGR of 9.11% by
2020- 2024. The organized sector dominates, with
65% share of the total market, while the unorganized
sector controls the remaining 35% of the market.
However, owing to stringent environmental
regulations and awareness among customers, the
cost of operations for small, unorganized players is
likely to increase, thereby shrinking their share in the
industry.
The demand for dyes and dye intermediates is
expected to grow at around 6% during 2019-20,
backed by strong demand from the textiles, leather,
and inks industries, which are expected to register
a growth rate of 6%, 4%, and 11%, respectively.
Exports of dyes are also expected to increase by 6.4%
due to the shift of production bases from developed
countries to India on account of stringent pollution
control measures being adopted in those countries.
It is evident that the dye industry commands a large
portion in chemical industries and has the one of the
highest water usage volumes in the industry. Without
adequate water supplies it is impossible to run a dye
and intermediate industry. Now with such tons of
dyes being produced every year, the water used pre
and post production needs to be treated. As the govt.
norms get stricter and stricter with every passing day,
waste water treatment has become a priority for the
Dr. Prafull Ranadive
Head – R&D
Organica Biotech Pvt. Ltd.
Dr. Anuja Kenekar
Manager – R&D
Organica Biotech Pvt. Ltd.
CHEMICAL
AND
WASTE
MANGEMENT

25 AUG 2022
dye industry today. Let us first explore some major
contributors to the pollution load in dyes.
Basedontheirchemicalproperties,colourproperties,
and applications dyes can be characterized into acidic
dyes, basic dyes, azoic dyes, nitrodyes, direct dyes,
reactivedyesandSulphurdyes.Thefunctionalgroups
in dye that impart colour are known as auxochromes
and the groups that intensify this imparted colour
are known as chromophores. A point to be noted
is that more often than not, the chemical structure
of these dyes decides their tenacity and their
biodegradability as well. More tenacious dyes have
low biodegradability rates and are therefore harder
to treat when released in wastewaters.
The dye imparts colour to anything it mixes with,
including the surface or ground water that comes in
contact with the wastewater effluents. This disturbs
the potability and aesthetic value of water and blocks
the penetration of light through the water affecting
photosynthesis in water bodies. Apart from this
visible damage the dye effluents also have several
compounds that are toxic, mutagenic, carcinogenic
and enzyme inactivators. Oral ingestion or inhalation
can lead to acute toxicity triggering irritation of
skin and eyes. Workers having excessive exposure
to the dyes can experience dermatitis, allergic
conjunctivitis, occupational asthma or other allergic
reactions. The genotoxic effect of dyes can lead to
chromosomal disturbance.
Dyes like azure can affect human behaviour due
to its impact on the central nervous system. Since
mutagenesis is trigger for cancer, the azo and nitro
dyes can cause cancer over period of time. A plethora
of dyes have similarly been found to have severe
mutagenic and carcinogenic effects in human and
animal models. One can imagine the level of damage
such compounds could induce once they enter our
ecosystem. Hence it becomes necessary to get rid
of such compounds before they are discharged into
water bodies. The textile industry should comply to
various standards set for the discharge of effluent
such as COD <250 ppm, BOD<30 ppm, colour <150
PCU, phenolic compounds<1 ppm NH3-N < 50 ppm
and TDS <2100 ppm and in order to meet these
standards industry has to deploy various treatment
methods of outgoing effluent.
Synthetic dyes used in industries are recalcitrant
in nature. The reason for such recalcitrant nature
of compounds is due to the chemical structures of
these compounds. In the process of dye production,
raw materials like are benzene, naphthalene,
anthraquinone are most commonly used in addition
to other compounds which chelates with minerals
or salts to generate waste water containing salts,
acids, alkali, halogen, hydrocarbons, nitro, amines,
dyes and other substances. Most of the dye contains
aromatic rings with one or more -N=N- groups which
makes it resistant to degradation via ozone, light,
and biological activity.
Out of all the dyes produced and utilized globally, the
dye with azo compounds accounts for more than 60%
of annual dye production due to its wide variety of
application. These dye compounds are used in textile,
cosmetics, food, and printing industry, and amongst
them textile industry is the largest consumer. The
major issue with the dye is not the quantum of its
production but rather the process of its application.
During the dyeing process, not all the dye bind to the
fabric and the unbounded dye is lost in waste water.
Almost 2% of basic dye to 50% of the reactive dye is
lost in waste water leading to high level of surface
and ground water contamination. The presence of
very small amount of azo dyes in water (<1ppm) are
highly visible affecting transparency and water- gas
solubility of water.
A lot of methods have been devised to
treat dye containing waste water which includes
physicochemical process and biological processes
followed in effluent treatment plants (ETPs) as well as
other sophisticated process including RO, distillation,
filtration. A highly optimized of specific Primary,
Secondary, Tertiary treatment strategies can ensure
maximum removal of water from wastewaters. A
variety of physicochemical processes have been
deployed to treat the colour of dyes from effluent
water. Flocculation and coagulation techniques have
been extensively used. Coagulants and flocculants
like alum, ferrous sulphate, polyaluminium chloride,

26 AUG 2022
polyamines etc. at specific dosages help in dye
reduction during primary effluent treatment. These
polyelectrolytesneutralizethenegativelychargeddye
material to form particle-polymer-particle complexes
which precipitates in the form of chemical sludge
containing good amount of chemical residue which
again requires safe disposal. Adsorption is another
effectivemethodtoremovedyefromindustrialwaste
water. Commercial activated carbon is well known
absorbent. Various factors such pH, contact time
between adsorbate (dye) and absorbent (carbon)
affect the removal of dye from effluent. Advanced
Oxidation Process (AOP) is another method used
for removal of dye from waste water. In this process
strong oxidizing agents in combination with an
irradiation source like ultraviolet rays or ozone (O3)
generate hydroxyl radical to destroy hazardous and
refractory chemicals in waste water. But this process
is cost and energy intensive.
Several microorganisms such as fungi, bacteria, algae
are known to decolorize the azo dyes under certain
environmental conditions. The microorganisms
by several aerobic and anaerobic pathways
can decolorize azo dyes and can degrade the
aromatic amines. Microorganisms secrete several
enzymes like laccases, azoreductase and different
peroxidases. These ezymes either transforms the
dye structure or mineralizes the dyes. Microbes
such as Polyporus sanguineus, Irpex flavus, Coriolus
versicolor, Phanarochaete chrysosporium known
for their capability to adsorb and degrade dyes, but
on the retention time required for the treatment
is very high. Anaerobic decolorization involves an
oxidation-reduction reaction with hydrogen which
allows azo and other water-soluble dyes to be
decolorized. The anaerobic degradation process
includes a decolorization stage as well. Studies have
revealed that certain steps in anaerobic pathway viz.
acidogenesis and methanogenesis are processes that
contributeindyedegradation.Gammaproteobacteria
and sulfate reducing bacteria during acidogenesis
and Methanosaeta species, Methanomethylovorans
hollandica during methanogenesis are known to be
dominant species for dye removal. The challenge
remains to equip treatment plants with organisms
that can survive, thrive and treat effluents at the rate
required.
Bacteria are not directly able to use dye compounds
as their food source hence addition of carbon
sources like glucose, starch, acetate or other sugar
sources is essential for microbial activity. Out of the
different biological treatment reactors that have
been assessed for efficacy of dye degradation and
treatment, the anaerobic filter and the UASB reactor
have shown promising results with good colour
removal efficiency. However, one must note that
post anaerobic treatment, azo dyes are converted
to colourless but potentially hazardous aromatic
amines. The second phase for treatment aromatic
amines requires to be carried out under aerobic
conditions.
A sequential UASB tank followed by aerobic sludge
blanket has proven to result in a significant dye
reduction. In some cases of effluent treatment
for dye industry, anaerobic treatment followed by
aerobic treatment seems more efficient approach
for dye degradation. Around 70 % of dye removal
can be achieved by UASB or baffled reactor while
rest of COD can be further oxidised under aerobic
conditions. Aerobic treatment includes bacterial and
fungal degradation of dye. Many bacterial strains like
bacillus species of B.megaterium, B.licheniformis,
B.subtilis, and some gram negative species like
Pseudomonas luteola, Aeromonas hydrophilia were
isolated with good azo degrading and decolorization
activity. Fungal species like white rot fungus are also
known for their decolorizing acitivity. They produce
enzyme that are capable of dye degradation.
When compared to physicochemical methods,
biological degradation method is more environment
friendly and cost effective. With decades of first-hand
industry experience and industry expertise, Organica
Biotech has helped boost biological treatment for
many dyestuff industries. One such pertinent case
study is as follows:
A dye industry located in Vapi Gujarat, had a simple
functioning ETP setup of Activated Sludge Process
(ASP). The treatment of wastewater was performed
by operating only primary and tertiary methods

27 AUG 2022
whereas biological process was completely skipped
by the Environment Health and Safety department.
The biggest challenge to treat the effluent at hand
was the decolorization of azo dyes and COD control.
After initial effluent assessment, studies were
conducted on the effluent and an assessment on the
toxicity of the effluent and its treatability was made.
Aftera thorough analysis at lab scale, a robust aerobic
secondary treatment using our flagship product
Cleanmaxx was strategized for effluent treatment
considering the reactor parameters.
Cleanmaxx® is one of a technologically backed
effective biological aerobic wastewater treatment
solution.Itisaspecialisedheterogenousconcentrated
consortium of uniquely functional bacteria with a
high proliferative capacity and tenacity to withstand
hostile effluent waters. The aerobic wastewater
treatment solution – Cleanmaxx® is capable of rapid
biomassdevelopmentandcanwithstandfluctuations
in wastewater quality. Cleanmaxx® accelerates COD/
BOD reduction through bacteria mediated organic
load degradation. This rapidly reduces the time
required for effective aerobic wastewater treatment,
as well as reduces energy spent in aeration &
agitation thereby cutting CAPEX/OPEX costs. The
uniqueness of Cleanmaxx® lies in the flexibility of
the bacterial consortium to sense, adapt & effective
aerobic wastewater treatment of any industry origin
creating a unique microbial fingerprint acclimatised
to the wastewater. Cleanmaxx® proves that aerobic
wastewater treatment gives better results and
can be used in a wide spectrum of industries for
all suspended and attached growth processes
including Activated Sludge Process (ASP), Sequence
Bed Reactor (SBR), Lagoon process, Moving Bed
Bioreactor (MBBR), Membrane Bioreactor (MBR),
Rotating Biological Contractor (RBC) and Fluidised
Air Bed Reactor.
Cleanmaxx was added in the aeration tank which had
a retention time (RT) of 2 days. A dosing structure
for 60 days was created with daily dosing and each
and every parameter was closely monitored. Positive
results were observed within first week of addition
only and the decolorization improved up to 45% in
first week which improved significantly 94% after two
months of treatment. Similarly the COD was reduced
by 83% from an initial COD of 7500 ppm. The aerobic
treatment of azo dye provides us a low cost process
and non-toxic by-products due to mineralization of
dyes.
Organica Biotech has extensive experience in treating
effluents from a varied spectrum of dye industries.
The usage and production of new dyes will continue
to pose challenge to treat the dye effluents. With
continuous research, bioremediation products and
processes can be updated to face such challenges
efficiently.
References:
y
y B.M. D’Antoni, F. Iracà, M. Romero. Color
Removal from textile effluents by biological
processes Panta Rei s.r.l. | Via Cavour 17 |
30032 Fiesso d’Artico (VE) | Italy
y
y Anjali Pandey, Poonam Singh, Leela Iyengar.
Bacterial decolorization and degradation of azo
dyes, Department of Chemistry, Biotechnology
Laboratory, I.I.T., Kanpur 208016, India
y
y Bruno Lellis, Cíntia Zani Fávaro-Polonio,
João Alencar Pamphile∗, Julio Cesar Polonio.
Effects of textile dyes on health and the
environmentand bioremediation potential
of living organisms 2019 Departamento de
Biotecnologia, Genética e Biologia Celular -
Universidade Estadual de Maringá, Maringá,
Brazil Received.
y
y Alba Blánquez a, Juana Rodríguez a, Vânia
Brissos b, Sonia Mendes b, Ligia O. Martins
b, Andrew S. Ball c, María E. Arias a,
Manuel Hernández a,⇑Decolorization and
detoxification of textile dyes using a versatile
Streptomyces laccase-natural mediator systema
Departamento de Biomedicina y Biotecnología,
Universidad de Alcalá, 28805 Alcalá de Henares,
Madrid, Spain.
y
y Sara A. Zahran1, Marwa Ali-Tammam1,
Abdelgawad M. Hashem2, Ramy K. Aziz3
& Amal E . Ali1,3Azoreductase activity of
dye decolorizing bacteria isolated fromthe
human gut microbiota. www.nature.com/
scientificreports.
y
y Eslami H, Sedighi Khavidak S, Salehi F,
Khosravi R, Fallahzadeh RA, Peirovi R, Sadeghi
S. Biodegradation of methylene blue from
aqueous solution by bacteria isolated from
contaminated soil. J Adv Environ Health Res
2017; Environmental Science and Technology
Research Center, School of Health, Shahid
Sadoughi University of Medical Sciences, Yazd,
Iran

28 AUG 2022

29 AUG 2022
BANARASI BROCADE
– AN EXCLUSIVE ART OF INDIA
1 . Introduction
Banaras(Varanasi),aholycityofUttarPradesh,isacentreforbrocadeandhand-madetextilesand
saris since ancient times. In Banarasi Saree weaving many types of exclusive weaves are woven
on handlooms. These handlooms are mounted with different kinds of hand operated dobbies
and Jacquards. In this famous weaving the word brocade is derived from the Latin word “brochus“denoting
to transfix. The exquisite fabrics, so much appreciated all over the world, are produced by weaving with
warps and weft threads of different colours and often of different materials. It appears from ancient texts
that in early days gold and silver wires were drawn out to such fineness that they could be woven into
fabrics of pure gold and silver. Silk was added later to give colour and body to the textile. Now gold or
silver wires are used as a special weft twisted along with the silk. Generally, Banarasi work are carried out
in whole Banaras and nearby villages of this city. Whereas out of whole city the main areas are focused
for Banarasi weaving are like Peeli Kothi, Madanpura, Saraiya, Bajhadhiya, and Lohta. Currently, there are
approximately forty thousand people engaged in Banarasi weaving including weavers, dealers and dyers.
The main product of Banarasi handloom weaving is the saree.
2. Historical Background
The brocade weaving centres of India developed in
and around the capitals of kingdoms or holy cities
because of the demand for expensive fabrics by
the royal families or temples. The ancient centres
were situated mainly in Banaras, Gujarat, Delhi,
Agra and Murshidabad. Northern weavers were
greatly influenced, so far as design and technique
were concerned, by the brocade weaving regions
of eastern and southern Persia, Turkey, Central Asia
and Afghanistan. According to Buddhist literature,
Varanasi fabrics were pleasant to handle, beauti-
ful to look at and were greatly popular with rich
and tasteful people all over the world. As per the
legends, when Buddha attained Mahaparinirvana
(Figure 1) his mortal remains were wrapped in a
Banaras fabric radiating with rays of yellow, red and
blue colours.
(Figure 1: Buddha’s Fabric Design)
Varied patterns displayed in the Ajanta murals of the
Gupta period are believed by some art historians
to represent some brocade specimens also, and
the floral designs, animals and birds motifs and
geometrical patterns have close affinity with the
early brocade motifs. In Kashmir the brocade art
was developed by Sultan Zin-ul-Abidin (A.D. 1459
-1470) in the fifteenth century. He encouraged
the interchange of weavers with Iran.
S. Barhanpurkar
Assistant Professor,
SVITT, SVVV, Indore
B. Tanvi,
Tirthbai Kalachand,
School Indore,
Y. Agrawal
Assistant Professor,
SVITT, SVVV, Indore
P. Panday
SVITT, SVVV, Indore
PEER
REVIEW
PAPER

30 AUG 2022
A large number of foreign weavers/artisans
assembled in the royal workshop of Kashmir. There is
a remarkable resemblance between Banaras brocade
and the Jamawar shawls of Kashmir as they drew
pattern motifs from a common source. Jahangir was
also a great expert of brocades.
(figure 3): Jamawar shawls
(figure 2): Banaras brocade
Every social or religious group had its own norms
regarding the colour, design, and material of their
garment. Hindus liked bright coloured silk in colours
patterns like red, yellow & orange (Figure 4 &5).
Mashrub or mixed fabric was used mostly by peoples
in colours like lavender, sky blue (Figure 6), white and
magenta-blanket.
(figure 4): red pattern
(figure 5): yellow pattern
(figure 6): Blue pattern
3. Raw material : There are two broad classes of
Brocades: .Brocades of pure silk and cotton blends,
and Zari brocades with gold and silver threads. The
most important material used in brocade weaving is
silk. It facilitates lovely waves, is durable, strong, fine
and smooth. There are several varieties of raw silk of
which the main ones used for brocades are Tanduri,
Banaka and Mukta. Tanduri is imported from Malda
and other places. Benga Banaka is a thinner and finer
variety and is mostly used to weave soft fabrics such
as turbans and handkerchiefs. Mukta is a coarse and
durable silk used for kimkhabs, as fine silk does not
withstand heavy gold patterns. Brocade of pure silk
and cotton blend (Figure 7)
(figure 7): Brocade of silk & cotton Blend

31 AUG 2022
y
y Silk: The basic raw material of many types of
brocade is mainly mulberry silk thread. Apart
from the inherent beauty of silk brocades, the
fact that they were made from non-indigenous
materials added to their value. Japanese and
Chinese silk threads were renowned for their
superior qualities of evenness and shine.
y
y Zari: Zari is the gold and silver thread used in
Indian brocades. Zari is of two types – Badla
is made of flattened gold and silver wire.
Kalabattu is a thin silver or gold wire that is
wound around silk or cotton and now even
rayon thread.
4. Fabric types
Brocade types fabric can be classified into two
types. (1) Loom finish - Loom finished fabrics are
saris, odhini, patkas, pankhas, curtains etc. (2)
Yardage- Yardage is usually used for dress material,
upholstery and curtains
• The best known brocade fabrics were kamkhwab
(Figure.8) or kinkhab (Figure 9). Their main centres
were Varanasi, Ahmedabad and Surat. Their splen-
dour, elegance and cost gave them their name,
which means, ‘something a person cannot dream of
if he has not seen it’ (Kam: little, khwab: dream; kin:
golden in Chinese). Its specialty is the profuse use of
gold and silver thread, such that the silk background
is barely visible. It is mainly used for ceremonial
robes, hangings and furnishings.
(figure 8): Kinkhab
(figure 9): Kamkhwab
5. Weaving process
The weaving of these Banarasi sarees is observed at
Banaras and currently, approximate forty thousand
active weavers are found along with them are active
dealers, dyers, designers and supplementary sup-
port providers. Before the weaving, the silk yarn
undergoes few steps and then the weaving begins.
The Jacquard card, spools and beam is set up with
suitable color yarns and weaving is done.
• Jacquard cards – Saree designs
The desired design that is to be worked on the
saree is drawn on a sheet of graph paper (Fig.10).
This graph sheet becomes the reference to punch
the cards (Fig 11). They are made to a set of cards
(Fig 12) that will be tied together and loaded to the
jacquard machine.
(figure 10): Design on Graph Paper
(figure 11): Punching of Card
(figure 12): Lacing of Pattern Card

32 AUG 2022
5. The yarns
• The raw silk yarns (Fig 13) are processed they are
dyed with suitable colours. It follows something that
of a tie and dye process (Fig 14). Series like chiffon
undergo this tie and dye process. The yarn after
the initial stages of processing and dyeing (Fig 15)
process with tub-dip method (Fig 16). It is segregated
to undergo warping and weft processes.
(fig.13): Raw Silk (fig.14): Tie &Dye Process
(fig.15): Dyed Yarn (fig.16): Tub – Dip Method
• The threads are spun to spools with the help of
spinning wheel to prepare the spools to load to the
fly shuttle, the threads that fill up through fly shuttle
is called weft (Fig. 17,18 &19).The weft threads
are wound on weft pirn with the help of charkha.
The warp threads are got ready by spreading them
lengthwise creating pulls and is rolled to beam ( Fig
20), which is later fixed to the loom (Fig 21)
Fig. 17, 18 & 19: Thread is loaded on Pirns by the
help of Charakha and Pirn inserted in Shuttle
(fig.20): Beam Get-up on Loom
(fig.21): Warp on Warp Beam
6. The Weaving
The loom is set up with the threads and the process
of weaving is began before which the jacquard cards
are fixed to the jacquard machine and following the
cards the threads are pulled and the desired design
and the saree is weaved. In weaving warp, craftsmen
build the base that runs of the required length. Once
the punched cards are prepared those are spun with
altered threads and colours on the loom allowing to
design and are paddled in an orderly manner that
the main weaving picks up right colour and pattern
to produce the design and weave as well. The Figure
22 and 23 reveals the photographs of Jacquard and
Banarasi weaving.

33 AUG 2022
(fig.22): Jacquard Machine
(fig.23): Jacquard Machine
7. Motifs and Pattern
• When this form of fabric was introduced to India,
local artisans adapted it to the predominant Hindu
culture that was prevalent by creating popular motifs
of the paisley floral pattern (like marigold, jasmine
etc.) Fruits design (like mango etc.), animal pattern
(like elephant, horse, dears etc.),bird depiction
(peacock, parrot etc.) and sun, moon, stars. Most
Banarasi saris reflect ancient Mughal influence
which is seen in the motifs used like floral and foliate
motifs.
• Other motifs used are village Scenes, fairs, designs
inspired from architecture of temple and mosque,
etc. The edge of the sari border is a characteristic of
Banarasi Saris.
• Another celebrated pattern of Banaras brocade is
Jaal or net design, also known as Jangala. It is a rich
pattern covering the ground of the fabric and owes
its origin to Turkish brocades. The Banaras Jaal was
very delicate. In the Jaal, flower, bird or animal forms
were enclosed within a net-worked form evolved
from arch, square or other geometrical forms.
• Flowers and creepers were interlocked, filling up
the ground. The Hyderabadi Jangala was introduced
to the weavers of Varanasi on demand of the court of
Nizam of Hyderabad. Another adaptation
from the Persian prototype which became the
specialty of Varanasi is Latifa buti, probably named
after its designer Latif Mian.
• Religion too provided a variety of decorative motifs.
Varanasi being a religious centre had a large demand
for cloth woven specially for temples and devotees.
Along with floral patterns, auspicious symbols and
figures of deities were also used as motifs.
8. In present days
• More contemporary designs draw inspiration from
the past and fuse it with modern influences such as
animal, birds, and geometric and floweral design
patterns (Fig 24, 25 and 26).
(fig.24): Peacock Pattern (fig.25): Fruit Design
(fig.26): Geometrical Design

34 AUG 2022
9. Banarasi brocade sarees can be divided into five categories:
1. Jangala saree
y
y Jangala saree make use of silk thread. Pattern and motifs of
vegetation are spread throughout the fabric with gold and
silver flowers (Fig 27)
2. Tanchoi saree
y
y Tanchoi saree make use of the gold or silver thread, Zari are
commonly worn for wedding ceremonies.The motifs are
created by using extra weft (Fig. 28)
3. Tissue sarees
y
y Tissue saree make use of gold or silver Zari in weft. Tissue
sarees are preferred as wedding saree by the affluent.
4. Butidar sarees
y
y Butidar Saree make use of gold, silver and silk thread. It is
common to find the end panel consisting of a row of arches
with a burst of silver.
5. Cut work sarees
y
y Cut work saree are made using warp threads with cotton and
regular weft to create design. Patterns are created by cutting
extra loose hanging weft threads

35 AUG 2022
10. Colour
Colour plays a vital part in weaving brocade.• The
charm and subtle beauty of the brocade depends
upon colour synchronisation.• Earlier, vegetable
dyes were used during weaving. These produced fast
colours, lasted for almost a generation.• Nowadays,
chemical dyes have gained popularity as they are
cheaper, less time-consuming.
11. Market
Brocade has always been a special fabric catering
to the needs of the wealthy. Banarasi Brocade and
sareesareimmenselypopularacrosstheglobe.Today
Banarasi brocade is once again in great demand. The
pattern and motifs used to create brocade work
are also being incorporated into western garments
today. This has been seen on international as well
as Indian runways. The fusion of two worlds create
a garment that is both, lavish and contemporary.
Brands like Sabyasachi and Raw mango incorporate
these textile in their designs. The market of Brocade
has also grown for the fashion wear, traditional look
and multy use of like a celebrity brand fabric with
many special features. Fashion word market also
copying this designs after mixing with other modern
pattern and creating the fusion of new innovations.
12. References.
1. Watson, J. Forbes. 1873. Collection of the Textile
Manufactures of India’ (Second Series). London:
India Museum.
2. Singh, Martand et al. 1982. The Master Weavers.
Bombay: Subrata Bhomick.
3. Mohanty, Bijoy C. 1984. Brocaded Fabrics of India,
Vols I and II. Ahmedabad: Calico Museum of Textiles.
4. Kumar, Nita. 1988. The Artisans of Banaras: Popular
Culture and Identity, 1880–1986. Delhi: Oxford
University Press.
5. Dhamija, Jasleen and Jyotindra Jain (Eds.). 1989.
Handwoven Fabrics of India. Ahmedabad: Mapin
Books.
6. Ali, Yusuf. 1900. A Monograph on Silk Fabrics
Produced in the North-Western Provinces and Oudh.
Allahabad: N.W.P and Oudh Government Press.

36 AUG 2022
Futuristic Twisting
Futuristic Twisting
Twisting Solutions
Twisting Solutions
Textiles
Textiles

37 AUG 2022
AIR PERMEABILITY ;
TEAR RESISTANCE OF FABRICS FOR
PPE PROTECTION
1.Introduction
During demonstrations and riots, more and more
fire bombings are carried out with Molotov cocktails.
Apart from damage to property such as house or car
fires, personal injuries are also caused. Increasingly,
police and fire brigade personnel suffer damage from
Molotov cocktail explosions. These explosions result
in serious injuries, some with fatal consequences.
[1–11]
Molotov cocktail attacks (MCA) are counted as
“politically motivated crime, especially bodily harm
and homicide” [12]. In 2020, the MCA increased by
18.82 % compared to the previous year [13].
Figure 1 shows the development of the number
of violent offences per year in comparison to the
number of injured police officers (PVB). It can be
seen that the number of injured persons increases
more than the number of violent acts carried out
[14].
(Figure 1): Development of violent attacks on
German police officers [14]
The personal protective equipment (PPE) of a
police member is mostly made of aramid blend
fabric. The melting temperature of aramid is 600 °C
[15]. A Molotov cocktail explosion reaches higher
temperatures between 800 °C and 1700 °C [16,
17]. When PPE made of aramid is exposed to these
temperatures, the material contracts, it shrinks and
it begins to decompose. The melting material itself
causes severe injuries to the skin [18]. The parts of
the body exposed by the shrinkage are defenceless
against direct fire.
To improve the protective effect of PPE against MCA,
research is being conducted on a new fibre material,
new fabric patterns and a new coating [19]. However,
this article focuses on the development of new fabric
patterns.
The new fabric should offer the police officers at least
the same protection as the old fabric and additionally
reduce the shrinkage. The current tasks of the PPE
include [20]:
y
y Protection against cold
y
y Stab resistance
y
y Wearing comfort
y
y Impact resistance
y
y Fire protection
y
y Freedom of movement
y
y Wind and rain protection
y
y Easy care
y
y Abrasion resistance
Rahel Krause Justin Kühn Thomas Gries
Institut für Textiltechnik of
RWTH Aachen University,
Aachen, Germany.
TECHNICAL
TEXTILE

38 AUG 2022
Air permeability and tear resistance are determined
in order to better assess cold protection, stitch
resistance and wearing comfort. The air permeabil-
ity and tear resistance are determined to compare
the new weaves and to find a possible correlation
between air permeability and tear resistance. High
air permeability increases comfort. The tear strength
is needed to assess the tear resistance.
2.Experimentation
In the following, the execution of the tests
(Determination of tear force of trouser-shaped test
specimensaccordingtoDINEN13937,airpermeability
according to DIN EN ISO 9237) is explained. First, the
new bindings with which the tests are carried out are
presented. For each experiment, the experimental
design, execution and results are explained.
2.1 New fabric patterns
When PPE is exposed to the high temperatures of a Molotov cocktail explosion, the material shrinks. The
shrinkage of the textile causes the material to contract and the garment to fit tightly around the skin. The
insulating effect of the air cushion is lost. Areas of the body such as the ankles or wrists are exposed. Direct
contact with the fire causes severe injuries to these parts of the body. Textiles used to make fire-retardant
clothing are currently made of aramid fabrics with a 3/1 twill weave [15]. Independent of a new material
for PPE, three new fabric weaves have been developed. These weaves should have a maximum shrinkage of
1.5 %. The wearing comfort should still be given or improved with the new material [19]. In order to assess
the influence of the weave on the properties of the fabric independently of the material, the three new
weaves were developed and woven from m-aramid yarn. The weaves were developed by the project partner
Sächsisches Textilforschungsinstitut e.V., Chemnitz, Germany (STFI).
Table 1: New types of fabric weaves (black: warp lift, white: warp lowering).

39 AUG 2022
Weave no. 1 consists of a combination of rep elements. The resulting ribs lead to a high thread density. The
weave points of the first weave are close together.
Weave no. 2 is a combination of the plain weave and its simplest variants, the rep and the panama weave.
The plain and rep elements give the fabric structure and stability. The larger Panama weave elements create
a float as the weave points are further apart.
Weave no. 3 combines two twill weaves. A twill with a Z degree is interrupted by a twill with an S degree.
Untypical for the twill weave is that there are the same number of warp and weft threads on each side. The
side of the fabric does not influence the property profile.
2.2 Determination of the tear strength
For the initial assessment of the new weaves, only
small amounts of fabric are woven (an area of
600x1000 mm per weave). The leg tear test is carried
out in accordance to the DIN EN ISO 13937 standard.
Samples with dimensions of 50 mm x 200 mm are
taken from the fabrics. Two sets of five samples per
fabric are taken. One set of samples in warp direction
and one in weft direction. According to the standard,
in one set of samples no two samples should contain
the same warp or weft threads. Due to the small
size of the woven fabrics, the arrangement of the
samples cannot be done according to the standard.
To determine the tear strength across the warp, only
four instead of five samples can be taken from weave
no. 3. The tests are carried out in a standard climate
at 20.7 °C and a relative humidity of 66 %. [21]
Weave no. 1 achieves the highest tear strength
crosswise to the warp (131 N). The thread density
is very high due to the interlocked rep weaves. The
characteristic ribs form a tight weave with many,
closely spaced weave points. The visible difference
in tear strength across the warp and across the weft
is due to the different orientation of the ribs in the
fabric.
Weave no. 2 (120-122 N) and weave no. 3 (78 N) have
almost the same tear strength in both directions. The
reason for this is the symmetrical construction of the
weave cartridges. Weave no. 2 consists partly of the
plain weave and the Panama weave, which have the
same properties in both warp and weft directions. In
weave no. 3, the symmetry of the fabric results from
the combination of the Z and S degrees, as well as
the even distribution of the warp and weft threads.
In Figure 2 the tear strength of the different fabric is
shown.
(Figure 2): Tear strength per weave and direction
2.3 Determination of air permeability
The testing device offers sufficient space to test the
fabrics non-destructively. After each test, the fabric
is moved alternately by 20 cm in the warp and weft
directions. This means that the test preparation and
thedeterminationoftheairpermeabilityarecarried
out as per the standard. The tests take place in a
standard climate at 20.7 °C and a relative humidity
of 66 %. The fabric is clamped into the 20 cm2 test
area for each test. Care is taken to ensure that there
are no folds and that the edge seals the test surface
from the environment. A differential pressure of
200 Pa is applied to the sealed sample and the
air permeability is determined. For each fabric, a
reference measurement is taken with a rubber plate
to determine the leakage rate. The leakage rate is a
measure of how much air escapes through the seal.
This value is subtracted from the measured values
to determine the actual air permeability. [22]
Figure 3 below shows the results of the tests to
determine the air permeability for each of the new
fabric weaves.

40 AUG 2022
(Figure 3): Results of the air permeability tests
Weave No. 1 achieves the lowest air permeability
(518-631 mm/s). The combination of the rep
elements results in a high thread density with closely
spaced weave points. This makes the fabric strong
and has a higher air resistance.
Weave No. 2 is a mixture of a plain weave and rep
weave, with a high thread density and a Panama
weave with slight floatation. The result is a fabric
with medium air permeability (660-785 mm/s).
The highest air permeability is achieved by weave no.
3 (760-873 mm/s). The third weave has the lowest
number of weaving points as a combination of two
twill weaves with Z and S degrees. The unbound
thread length is not very long compared to the atlas
weave. The uniform geometry of the Z- and S-grades
creates large areas of unbound warp and weft
threads, which increase air permeability.
3.Summary
PPE for riot police in Germany consists of an aramid
blend fabric. The melting temperature of aramid
is about 200 °C to 600 °C below the temperature
reached by a Molotov cocktail explosion. The
protective effect of PPE against Molotov cocktail
attacks(MCA)istobeimprovedthrough researchand
development of new materials and fabric weaves.
The basic properties of PPE are to be retained. The
basic properties include comfort, protection against
cold and stab resistance. In order to assess these
properties, the air permeability and tear resistance
are determined for three newly developed fabric
weaves. The fabric weaves are combinations of the
three basic weaves. The tear strength is determined
across the warp and across the weft. The highest
tear strength across the warp is achieved by weave
no. 1, the lowest by weave no. 3. Across the weft,
weave no. 2 achieves the highest tear strength, the
lowest strength achieves weave no. 3. In order to
fulfil the requirement for PPE for tear resistance,
the tear strength across the weft must be at least
45 N and across the warp 45 N. Overall, the lowest
tear resistance in both directions is 78 N. Thus, the
requirement is fulfilled for all three weaves.
The highest air permeability is achieved in weave no.
3 and the lowest in weave no. 1. A direct correlation
between air permeability and tear strength cannot
be determined. Weave no. 3 has the highest air
permeability and the lowest tear strength transverse
to the warp and weft direction. The high air
permeability of the three weaves of over 550 mm
⁄s increases the wearing comfort. The air cushions
created during wear have an insulating effect. The
air cushions store body heat and thus protect against
cold. In case of contact with fire, they transmit heat
more slowly than without air cushions.
4.Outlook
To redesign a PPE that protects against MCA, the
influence of the weaves on the shrinkage of the tissue
must be determined. Due to shrinkage, the fabric
of the current PPE contracts sufficiently to expose
body parts. These unprotected parts of the body,
such as the wrists or ankles, are then burnt by the
fire of the explosion. In addition, a material must be
developed that can withstand the heat of a Molotov
cocktail explosion. Resistance to the heat can be
achieved either by a higher melting temperature or
by lower shrinkage and good insulation through air
cushioning. Lower shrinkage means that no parts
of the body come into direct contact with fire. The
air cushions conduct the heat more slowly. A higher
melting temperature means that the material does
not decompose as quickly. This means that the other
protective measures against fire remain intact.
y
y Acknowledgement
The Institut für Textiltechnik of RWTH Aachen
University would like to thank the AiF Projekt GmbH,
Berlin for having the Project “Schutzmaterial für
Einsatzkräfte - Molotowcocktailschutz” (No. 20599
BG) on behalf of the Forschungskuratorium Textil
e. V., funded by the Federal Ministry of Economic
Affairs and Climate Action (BMWK) of Germany on
the basis of a decision by the German Bundestag

41 AUG 2022
[1] Jager J.; Klatt T.; Bliesener T. NRW-Studie zur „Ge-
walt gegen Polizeibeamtinnen und Polizeibeamte.
Die subjektive Sichtweise zur Be-treuung und Für-
sorge, Aus- und Fortbildung, Einsatznachbereitung,
Belastung und Ausstattung: Kiel, 2013.
[2] Schwetje, S. Ausschreitungen im nordirischen
Londonderry. https://www.n-tv.de/ticker/Auss-
chreitungen-im-nordiri-schen-Londonderry-arti-
cle21263687.html (Accessed April 19, 2022).
[3] Otruba, F. POL-Pforzheim: (FDS) Horb - Glück-
licherweise nur geringer Schaden nach Wurf
mit Molotow-Cocktail in Richtung Polizeige-
bäude. https://www.presseportal.de/blau-licht/
pm/137462/4585984 (Accessed April 19, 2022).
[4] Mladek, J. Brandanschlag auf Polizeirevier in
Greifswald. https://www.nordkurier.de/mecklen-
burg-vorpommern/brandanschlag-auf-polizeirevier-
in-greifswald-0839626006.html (Accessed April 19,
2022).
[5] Kramper, G. Unruhen nach dem Tod von George
Floyd. https://www.stern.de/panorama/stern-
crime/new-york--junge-frau-schleudert-molotow-
cocktail-auf-polizeiwagen-9283384.html (Accessed
April 19, 2022).
[6] Spilker, I. Freund oder Feind? https://www.torial.
com/isabell.spilker/portfolio/376848.
[7] N.N. Verfassungsschutzbericht Bayern 2016:
München, April 2017.
[8] N.N. Politisch motivierte Konfrontationsgewalt
- Auseinandersetzungen zwischen links- und recht-
sorientierten Akteuren in den Jahren 2011 – 2012 /
Auszüge aus dem Abschlussbericht, 2016.
[9] N.N. Straftaten gegen Polizeibeamte - Lageber-
icht 2012: Dresden, April 2013.
icht 2011: Dresden, Mai 2011.
icht 2010: Dresden, Februar 2011.
[12] Waffengesetz (WaffG) Anlage 2 (zu § 2 Abs. 2
bis 4) Waffenliste, 2002.
[13] N.N. 1 Politisch motivierte Kriminalität im Jahr
2020: Bundesweite Fallzahlen, May 04, 2021.
[14] Gewalt gegen Polizeivollzugsbeamtinnen und
Polizeivollzugsbeamte: Bundeslagebild 2020, 2020.
[15] N.N. Technische Lieferbedingungen Polizei des
Landes Nordrhein-Westfalen: TLP Nr. 9004, 03.2019.
[16] Schröter, T. Bilddatengestützte Erkennung von
Deflagrationen: Hamburg, 2016.
[17] Grabski, R.; Brein, D.; Pasch, U.; Neske, M.;
Kunkelmann, J. Brandschutzforschung der Bun-
desländer,: Karlsruhe, 2010.
[18] Lier, A. Bei der Berliner Polizei brennt die
Uniform durch. https://www.bz-berlin.de/berlin/
bei-der-berliner-polizei-brennt-die-uniform-durch.
[19] Krause, R.; Bell, E. Schutzkleidungsmaterial
für Einsatzkräfte - Molotowcocktailschutz. https://
www.ita.rwth-aachen.de/global/show_document.
asp?id=aaaaaaaaaxtkqff (Accessed July 6, 2022).
[20] Technische Richtlinie (TR) Körperschu, 2009.
[21] DIN EN ISO 13937-2:2000-06, Textilien_-
Weiterreißeigenschaften von textilen Flächenge-
bilden_- Teil_2: Bestimmung der Weiterreißkraft mit
dem Schenkel-Weiterreißversuch (einfacher Weiter-
reißversuch) (ISO_13937-2:2000); Deutsche Fassung
EN_ISO_13937-2:2000; Beuth Verlag GmbH: Berlin.
[22] DIN EN ISO 9237:1995-12, Textilien_-
Bestimmung der Luftdurchlässigkeit von textilen
Flächengebilden (ISO_9237:1995); Deutsche Fas-
sung EN_ISO_9237:1995; Beuth Verlag GmbH:
Berlin.
References
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43 AUG 2022
NANOFIBERS,
A WATCHWORD
IN TEXTILE
INDUSTRY
Nanofibers are categorised in a new class of
fibrous materials having diameters equal or
less than 100nm. Synthetically made, these
tiny fibers can be easily modified to fit desired
characteristics and are useful for various industries
suchasthetextileindustry.Mostcommonlyproduced
by the electrospinning process, the polymer fluid is
first charged with a high electrical voltage and when
the electrical force reaches high enough to overcome
the surface tension of the polymer fluid, a metal
spinneret with a 0.1-1mm diameter will eject a fluid
jet towards a grounded metal collector all while the
fluid undergoes whipping-like bending instability and
elongation resulting in a small, solidified fiber.
Although electrospinning uses hazardous solvents
that damage the environment, new studies on
nanotechnology such as ‘Green electrospinning’ are
being developed. According to a National Science
Foundation report, “green electrospinning is an eco-
conscious and scalable biofabrication process that
replaces traditional solvent with biologically benign
solutions. Using this method, adverse impacts of the
manufacturing process could be decreased three to
six times”.
Moreover, the study was also mentioned by Helen
H. Lu from Department of Biomedical Engineering,
Columbia University that “Green electrospinning
not only preserves the composition, chemistry,
architecture, and biocompatibility of traditionally
electrospun fibers, but it also improves their
mechanical properties by doubling the ductility of
traditional fibers without compromising yield or
ultimate tensile strength. Our work provides both
a more biocompatible and sustainable solution for
scalable nanomaterial fabrication”.
Advantages of nanofibers
Most of the benefits of nanofibers come from the
fact that the structure of the fiber is able to be tailor-
made to achieve specific properties, but the most
notable properties of nanofibers would be their
large ratio of surface area to volume and superior
mechanical performance (stiffness and tensile
strength) compared to other fiber material forms.
Other than that, nanofibers are also inexpensive to
produce.
TECHNICAL
TEXTILE
AUTHOR(S) : NURHANNA SAFWA BINTI -
MOHAMMAD BACHTIAR
CORRESPONDING AUTHOR : Nur Adilah Masri,
Nur Hani Aqilah

Textile Value Chain- Aug 2022

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