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ISSN NO : 2278-8972 l RNI NO : MAHENG/2012/43707
www.textilevaluechain.in
AUGUST 2023
VOLUME 11 l ISSUE NO. 8 l RS 100 l PAGES 80
Connecting The Global Textiles Together
POST ITMA Special Issue
www.textilevaluechain.in
AUGUST 2023
4
RSB COTTEX	GATEFOLD
RAYSIL	 FRONT INSIDE
NIVA	 3
LMW	 5
SAMBANDAM	 7
SALONA	 9
COLORJET	 11
RIMTEX	 13
TUREL	 14
SAURER	 15
REAL PRINCE	 19
USTER	 20
SHREEJI	 21
TRUTZSCHLER	 25
GSCS	 26
SSPL	 27
BHAGAT	 29
ZYDEX	 30
BADAMI	 31
LUWA	 33
KING YARNS	 35
ARTYARN	 36
YAMUNA	 37
NEEVA TRADELINK	39
BRUCKNER	 40
UNITECH	 41
GOKUL ANAND	43
YARN EXPO SURAT	45
ALLIANCE	 46
OMAX	 47
ASSOCHAM	 50
MEERA	 51
GARTEX	 52
YARN FAIR SHANGHAI	55
DIFS	 58
SITEX	 61
INTERTEX TUNISIA	62
WEAVEKNIT	 66
ITMA ASIA	 67
NON WOVEN TECH 70
UNIFORM	 71
PAMEX	 74
MOROCCO	 75
DOMOTEX	 78
CAIRO FASHIONTEX 79
GARTECH	 104
TECHTEXTIL	 105
 BACK INSIDE
RAYMOND BACK COVER
LEADER SPEAKS
CORPORATE SPEAKS
CORPORATE VIEW
POST EVENT
MARKET REPORT
ITMA REVIEW
PLI: What Happened So Far and Anticipation of PLI 2.0 16
CEMATEX’s Plans for Singapore  10
Uster’s Cutting-Edge Innovations Unveiled at ITMA  12
Meet the Indian Pavilion at ITMA Milan 2023  22
ERCA’s Revecol: Pioneering Sustainable Innovations in the
Chemical Industry  24
Quality: A Key to Success in the Indian Textile
Industry: Excerpt from The Yarn Bazaar Roundtable 68
Expert Opinion Geopolitical Disarray and Distress
in Demand: An Inside Look at India’s Current Textile
Turbulence  72
ITMA 2023 in Review 90
A Report on the Half Day Seminar on “INNOVATIONS
@ ITMA MILAN 2023”  96
Prof. M. D. TELI Endowment Inaugural Oration-2023 99
PM MITRA Park launched in Amravati, Maharashtra102
Textile Machinery Import - India  92
Textile Machinery Export - India  93
Man Made Fibres  94
Natural Fibres  95
SOEX and Mercedes-Benz AG save tonnes of work shoes
from disposal  28
Tecnorama: ITMA 23 confirms the leadership  32
SPGPrints demonstrates innovation and sustainability  34
LAIP: the present is an expression of a future project  38
Groz-Beckert welcomes over 7,000 visitor at ITMA
booth  42
Road to Net Zero with the leader in continuous wet
processing and jet dyeing technology  44
Shipments of new textile machinery decreased in most
segments in 2022, except in spinning  48
IDF 3: The shortest path to perfect quality  53
LMW, The Trendsetter in Recycled Fibre Processing  56
Terrot Showed A Strong Line-Up at the ITMA 2023  59
Rimtex Group Redefines Spinning Innovations at ITMA
2023 with Transformative Technologies  63
Mahlo looks back on the successful trade fair  76
Great Exhibition Platform for DiloGroup  80
Sappi at ITMA 2023 in Milan: High-quality textile products
sprout where fashion meets forest  82
Fashion’s appetite for change palpable at ITMA 2023  84
ITMA Milan: A Success For Italian Textile Machinery
Manufacturers  85
Solid success for Monforts in South America and at ITMA
2023  87
Seminar On “Transformation in Textile World” Held in
Surat on 15th July 2023 88
ADVERTISER INDEX
COVER STORY
CONTENT
AUGUST 2023
6 www.textilevaluechain.in
India’s PLI scheme and the
success of ITMA, Milan
ndia's Production Linked Incentive (PLI) Scheme for Textiles,
launched to promote the production of man-made fibre
(MMF) apparel, MMF fabrics, and technical textiles, has
achieved significant milestones. With 64 applications
approved and a projected total investment of INR 197.98
billion, the scheme aims to boost India's textile industry's
manufacturing capabilities and exports.
However, manufacturers have expressed concerns about the
scheme's limited scope, excluding cotton and certain textiles,
and high financial requirements for eligibility. To address
these issues, the government is gearing up for PLI 2.0, which is
expected to focus on small and medium-sized businesses and
expand to include apparel and home textiles. The updated
scheme aims to strike a balance between incentivizing
investments and generating employment, fostering inclusive
growth in the industry.
While the Indian government is gearing up to present the
second edition of its prestigious PLI scheme, Cematex, an
organization comprising 9 International European Textile
machinery associations has completed the successful edition
of ITMA Europe in Milan, Italy last month.
The world’s largest trade fair for textile machinery saw a spike
of visitors and exhibitors number looking for making new
investments in technology and exhibiting the cutting edge
machineries respectively.
EDITORIAL TEAM
EDITOR AND PUBLISHER
Jigna Shah
EDITORIAL ASSISTANT
Gargi Dandegaonkar
CREATIVE DESIGNER
Asif Khan
JUNIOR EDITOR
Hrushikesh Takbhate
MARKETING AND ADVERTISING ENQUIRY
Mohammad Tanweer
+91-9167986305
sales@textilevaluechain.com
REGISTERED OFFICE:
TVC MEDIA AND PROMOTION PVT LTD.
504, Suchita Business Park, Patel Chowk,
Pantnagar, Ghatkopar (East),
Mumbai- 400075, Maharashtra, INDIA.
Cell: +91-9769442239
Email: info@textilevaluechain.com
Web: www.textilevaluechain.com
Owner, Publisher, Printer and Editor
Ms. Jigna Shah
Printed and Processed by her at, Impression
Graphics, Gala no.13, Shivai Industrial Estate,
Andheri Kurla Road, Sakinaka, Andheri(East),
Mumbai 400072, Maharashtra, India.
All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction
of any of the content from this issue is
prohibited without explicit written permission
of the publisher. Every effort has been made
to ensure and present factual and accurate
information. The views expressed in the
articles published in this magazine are
that of the respective authors and not
necessarily that of the publisher. Textile Value
chain is not responsible for any unlikely errors
that might occur or any steps taken based in the
information provided herewith.
Editorial
+91-9869634305
marketing@textilevaluechain.com
Hrushikesh Takbhate
I
AUGUST 2023
8 www.textilevaluechain.in
Event Calender
UPCOMING
EVENTS
EVENTS September 2023
31st
Aug - 02nd
Sep
SOLAR+STORAGE NX
Istanbul, Turkey
https://solarstoragenx.com/
07th
-10th
Sep
ERBIL FASHIONTEX
Erbil, Iraq
https://erbilfashiontex.com/
11th
Sep
SUSTAINABLE LEATHER FORUM
Paris, France
https://slf-paris.com/
12th
-14th
Sept
FIBER  FILAMENT EXTRUSION FUNDAMENTALS
Online Event
https://www.inda.org/training/advanced-training.php
12th
-14th
Sept
TECHTEXTIL
Mumbai, India
https://techtextil-india.in.messefrankfurt.com/
mumbai/en.html
13th
- 16th
Sept
CEMS BANGLADESH
Dhaka, Bangladesh
https://www.bd.cems-yarnandfabric.com
13th
- 15th
Sept
DORNBIRN GFC- GLOBAL FIBER CONGRESS
Dornbirn, Austria
https://www.dornbirn-gfc.com/de/home
14th
15th
Sept
PI APPAREL SUPPLY CHAIN FORUM
New York, US
https://apparel.pi.tv/events/76/Supply_Chain_Forum_New_York
14th
-16th
Sept
MEDIA EXPO
New Delhi, India
www.mediaexpo-delhi.com
19th
-21st
Sept
CINTE TECHNTEXTIL
Shanghai, China.
https://cinte-techtextil-china.hk.messefrankfurt.com/
shanghai/en.html
20th
–21st
Sept
Filo
Milan, Itlay
www.filo.it
23rd
- 25th
Sept
WEAVEKNIT
Surat , India
https://weaveknitt.sgcci.in
26th
-28th
Sept
NONWOVEN TECH ASIA
New Delhi, India
https://nonwoventechasia.com/
28th
-30th
Sept
ITVC EXPO
Surat, India
https://www.assocham.org/event-detail.
php?event=international-textile-value-chain-itvc-expo
28th
– 01st
Oct
IBIA EXPO 2023
Istanbul, Turkey
https://ibiaexpo.com/en/
AUGUST 2023
10 www.textilevaluechain.in
Leader Speaks
Textile Value Chain Talked with Mr. Ernesto Maurer,
President of Cematex, the European Committee of
Textile Machinery Manufacturers, and organizers of
ITMA Exhibitions.
ITMA has a show lineup in China and now also is
venturing to Singapore, can you speak about it?
We did a show successfully in Singapore in 2001,
It had been a very successful show. The world has
changed tremendously, and now we want to give
space to countries like Bangladesh, Pakistan, and
India to make sure they have access to the market.
That’s why we are going to Singapore.
The main reason we wanted to do the show is we
want to give the International market to Asian
markets and vice versa. I believe in being present in
the market, that’s why we are going to Singapore,
because it is a good location, for business and
financing. And it is a very modern venue.
The venue size is approx., 70000 sq. m., regarding
the exhibitors, we didn’t make any projections yet.
Are there any plans for ITMA to come to India?
We don’t believe in competition. India already has
India ITME which is also a four-year machinery
show. If we do ITMA in India, there is a possibility
that both shows will fail. We have here four-year
show in Milan, we are doing ITMA Asia every two
years in Shanghai and now in Singapore.
For this edition of ITMA Europe, you launched ITMA
Connect, what is it?
It is the need of the world to go digital. That’s why
we launched ITMA Connect, as a B2B portal for
businesses and also to attract more visitors and
exhibitors. We started it one month before and it
will also be available after the ITMA show. It’s a
start, we have to see how things go, we have to
start somewhere.
Other than your Singapore show, are there any plans
for new shows in the coming years?
I think we already have enough shows, we have
ITMA Asia in Shanghai in November 2023, we are
doing ITMA Europe again in Germany in 4 years, in
2024 again in Shanghai, 25 in Singapore, and 27 in
Germany. This means we have international shows
every year.
We have ITMA Europe in Germany in 2027, it’s very
simple when selecting the venues. With the size
requirement, you don’t have that many options,
Milan is a good venue, and Germany is even larger.
It is very important to have modern amenities,
logistics, etc. Now I am looking forward to Germany.
So, it’s always a decision that we take, we have a
long list of requirements and then we conclude. It
has so many other factors, there are accessibility,
logistics, storage for containers, etc.
A lot of visitors face issues with Visa, how are you as
an organizer addressing the issue?
For ITMA Milan, we had very close contact with
the Italian government, and they have put special
efforts into the visa-approving procedure for the
visitors. Regarding the visitors, I can only suggest to
everybody to start the process in advance. I think it
is very important to apply for an invitation through
our website. After that, this is a political decision
of the state, we can only encourage them on our
behalf. With ITMA Europe, the EU has the same
state of guidelines for every country which is part of
the EU, so I think the visa process will be the same
as Italy in Germany.
For Singapore, it has a very open policy for visas,
and I believe it will be easy for visitors.
CEMATEX’s Plans for Singapore
AUGUST 2023
12 www.textilevaluechain.in
Corporate Speaks
Can you tell us about the latest innovations
showcased at ITMA?
At ITMA, we are proud to present significant
developments in fiber-to-fabrics and
connectivity. We’ve been working on this for
thepast8years,startingwithourcollaboration
with Uster for quality experts. Our focus is on
offering solutions based on connectivity, and
one of our latest offerings is the Uster 360Q.
Can you explain what sets the Uster 360Q apart
from your previous offerings?
The Uster 360Q is a game-changer because
we don’t just provide a product or software;
instead, we offer a comprehensive solution
at three levels. The first level involves state-
of-the-art equipment with cutting-edge
hardware. The second level includes software
tools that help our customers integrate and
make informed decisions. Lastly, we provide
excellent support with our textile expertise.
How does the Uster 360Q support raw material
management and fabric inspection?
With the Uster 360Q, we offer a powerful
HVI (High Volume Instrument) and software
to manage raw materials effectively. When it
comes to fabric inspection, we’ve developed
mainline process control for quality on the
loom, equipped with the Q bar and AI defect
classification. This allows us to detect issues
like holes and seams in the fabric, and with
the assistance of AI, our customers become
an integral part of the solution. It significantly
improves productivity and ensures better
yields.
Speaking of markets, how has the Indian textile
market responded to Uster 360Q?
The Indian market has been quite successful
for us. India is an
essential market.
However, we’ve
made a strategic
decision not
to market it
worldwide due
to the challenges
in offering
a f t e r - s a l e s
services across
all regions.
Are there any specific products tailored to the
Indian market’s unique needs?
Interestingly, the Indian market is open and
receptivetolong-terminvestments.Theydonot
require any special products; they appreciate
solutions that align with their sustainable and
forward-looking approach.
How does Uster address the sustainability
question?
Sustainability is indeed a significant factor
driving change in the textile industry. At
Uster, we invest heavily in meeting the
market’s benchmark for sustainability. Our
fabric inspection solutions and automation
advancements help reduce waste and ensure
efficient resource utilization.
Can you tell us more about the global presence
of Uster and how it connects you with clients?
We have offices in various locations, including
Shanghai,Coimbatore,andtheUSA.Thisglobal
presence enables us to connect with clients
across different regions, understand their
specific needs, and foster strong relationships
within the industry.
Uster’s Cutting-Edge
Innovations Unveiled at ITMA
Textile Value Chain Talks with Mr. Joachim Maier, Marketing
Manager, Uster Technologies at ITMA 2023
AUGUST 2023
16 www.textilevaluechain.in
Cover Story
By Hrushikesh Takbhate
India’s textile industry, a major contributor to the
country’s economy, has undergone significant
transformations in recent times. To foster the
growth and competitiveness of this vital sector, the
Indian government introduced the Production Linked
Incentive (PLI) Scheme for Textiles. The scheme’s
primary objective was to promote the production of
manmade fibre (MMF) apparel, MMF fabrics, and
products of technical textiles, enabling the industry
to achieve size and scale while becoming globally
competitive. The government again opened the portal
for the PLI scheme applications considering the request
from the industry stakeholders. In light of the new
development let us understand what has happened so
far and what is the anticipation for PLI and PLI 2.0?
Achievements of the PLI Scheme
Under the PLI Scheme for Textiles, the government
received a total of 67 applications from various textile
investors. Out of these, 64 eligible applicants were
selected to receive incentives over a span of five years.
The approved applicants presented ambitious plans to
invest significantly in the sector.
The selected 64 applicants collectively proposed a
substantial total investment of INR 197.98 billion. This
infusion of funds aims to bolster the manufacturing
capabilities and export potential of man-made fibre
(MMF) apparel, MMF fabrics, and technical textiles.
The scheme envisages that this investment will lead to
substantial growth in the textile industry.
Moreover, the approved applicants projected an
impressive turnover of INR 1.939 trillion over the
duration of the scheme. This significant projected
turnover is expected to position India’s textile industry
as a global competitor in the MMF and technical
textiles segment.
With the implementation of the PLI Scheme, the
textile sector is anticipated to witness a surge in job
opportunities.Theproposedinvestmentbytheselected
applicants is projected to generate employment for
approximately 245,362 individuals across the country.
This boost in employment prospects is a crucial aspect
of the scheme, contributing to economic growth and
social development.
However, the government and stakeholders are
closely monitoring the progress and impact of the PLI
Scheme. Feedback from manufacturers and experts is
being considered to further fine-tune the scheme and
address any challenges faced by the industry.
Reception and Feedback from the Industry
PLI: What
Happened
So Far and
Anticipation
of PLI 2.0
PLI 2.0’s lower investment
thresholds are likely to attract a
diverse range of companies from
various segments of the textile
industry.
I
www.textilevaluechain.in 17
AUGUST 2023
While the PLI Scheme for Textiles garnered attention
and appreciation for its ambitious goals, it also faced
criticism from manufacturers, who raised significant
concerns about its design and implementation.
One of the primary concerns raised by manufacturers
was the limited scope of the PLI Scheme, which
focused solely on man-made fibre (MMF) apparel,
MMF fabrics, and technical textiles. The scheme’s
exclusion of cotton textiles and certain other essential
textiles raised eyebrows as cotton textiles constitute a
significant portion of the overall market demand.
Manufacturers argued that by excluding these major
segments, the PLI Scheme might fail to address the
broader needs of the textile industry. For example, the
apparel segment, constituting approximately 73% of
the total market, was not covered under the scheme.
Similarly, certain key man-made textiles, like viscose,
polyester, and nylon, were also left out of the scheme,
limiting its potential impact.
Another major concern expressed by manufacturers
was the high financial requirements set for eligibility
under the PLI Scheme. To qualify for incentives,
companies were required to make substantial
investments, with a minimum investment threshold of
INR 1 billion or INR 3 billion, depending on the project’s
scale. Meeting such stringent financial targets proved
to be a significant challenge, especially for smaller
players in the industry.
Manufacturers argued that the prescribed investment
thresholds, coupled with requirements of 25-60%
value addition, were not suitable for the technical
textile sector. These ambitious targets might lead to
potential difficulties in achieving investments and
turnovers, especially for companies operating in niche
or emerging segments of the textile industry.
Future Prospects: PLI 2.0 for Textiles
The government’s forward-looking approach to the
textile industry involves the anticipation of PLI 2.0. This
second round of the PLI Scheme is expected to address
some of the concerns raised during the initial phase
and further boost the growth and competitiveness of
the textile sector.
One of the primary objectives of PLI 2.0 is to foster the
growth of small and medium-sized businesses (SMEs)
in the textile industry. The government recognizes the
importance of inclusive growth, and PLI 2.0 is set to
offer opportunities for SMEs to participate actively in
the scheme. By lowering the investment thresholds,
the government aims to encourage more SMEs to
invest in the sector and contribute to its development.
PLI 2.0 is expected to expand its scope to include
the apparel segment and home textiles. Unlike the
initial phase, where the focus was on man-made fibre
(MMF) apparel, MMF fabrics, and technical textiles,
the updated scheme will incorporate downstream
products like readymade garments, home textiles (such
as blankets and bedspreads), and textile accessories
(like lace, buttons, and zippers).
This expansion is a significant step to further
propel the Indian textile industry and make it more
comprehensive, catering to a wider range of products
with high export potential.
As the government gears up for PLI 2.0, discussions
and drafts have emerged regarding the investment
thresholds and incentives to be offered to the industry.
PLI 2.0’s lower investment thresholds are likely to
attract a diverse range of companies from various
segments of the textile industry. The revised scheme
aims to create a more level playing field, enabling both
large-scale and smaller manufacturers to participate
actively and contribute to the sector’s growth.
By expanding to include apparel and home textiles, PLI
2.0 seeks to boost the entire value chain of the textile
industry. It will incentivize manufacturers to explore
new product lines and tap into emerging markets, thus
increasing India’s competitiveness in the global textile
trade.
While the specifics of the eligibility criteria and
turnover requirements under PLI 2.0 are yet to be
officially released, a draft proposal indicated some
potential features.
Investment thresholds could range from INR 15 million
to INR 45 million, making it more accessible for SMEs
to participate. To qualify for incentives, selected firms
would need to achieve a minimum turnover, equivalent
to twice their investment, in the first year. Subsequent
AUGUST 2023
18 www.textilevaluechain.in
Cover Story
years are expected to have additional growth targets,
encouraging sustained performance and expansion.
The proposed criteria might also include the
requirement of a minimum number of stitching
and sewing machines, among other benchmarks,
to be eligible for incentives. These measures aim to
promote increased production capacity, employment
generation, and value addition in the textile industry.
Expert Opinions and Recommendations
Mr Gurudas Aras, a prominent Strategic Advisor and
Independent Director for leading companies, shared
his insights on PLI 2.0 and its potential impact on the
textile industry.
Mr Aras expressed optimism about the upcoming
second round of the PLI Scheme, emphasizing its
focus on small and medium-sized businesses (SMEs).
According to him, the lower investment thresholds
proposed for PLI 2.0 would create an enabling
environment for SMEs to actively participate in the
scheme. This, in turn, is expected to foster greater
innovation, diversity, and competitiveness in the textile
industry.
He highlighted that PLI 2.0’s expansion to include
apparel and home textiles signifies a well-rounded
approach to boost the entire value chain. By
encouraging manufacturers to venture into these
downstream products, India’s textile industry can
diversify its offerings and capitalize on new market
opportunities, both domestically and internationally.
Mr. Aras also emphasized the need for PLI 2.0 to focus
on job creation. He believed that the scheme’s success
lies in striking a fine balance between incentivizing
investments and generating employment. By aligning
incentives with employment generation targets, the
government can ensure that PLI 2.0 becomes a driver
for inclusive growth in the textile sector.
Textile Value Chain also reached out to some of the
companies who got approval for the PLI scheme, one
such company RSWM’s Chief Financial Officer, Mr
Avinash Bhargava said, “Initially we were planning to
invest but the scheme was not clear, afterwards we
fully understood the scheme and we dropped the idea
for investment in PLI 1 scheme.”
Mr. Rajeev Tulshyan, Chairman, of Kennington Group
said, “PLI is a great initiative by the government, we
got approval for the 100 Cr scheme within two weeks
without any problem”. Talking about the project
investment he said, “We are investing in integrated
spinning plus knitting machine and we have acquired
land and machines are already there. Machine
installation is close to the end and production will
begin from August. For PLI we are coming with MJS
and knitting.”
Government’s Response and Way Forward
The government has shown responsiveness to
the concerns and feedback raised by stakeholders
regarding the PLI Scheme for Textiles. Recognizing the
limited scope of the initial phase, the government is
actively working on PLI 2.0 to address some of the key
challenges and make the scheme more comprehensive
and inclusive.
By expanding the scope to include downstream
products like apparel and home textiles, PLI 2.0
aims to cater to a wider range of market segments
and foster the growth of small and medium-sized
businesses. While it is still early days in the scheme’s
implementation, officials and policymakers are closely
monitoring its progress and impact.
An Empowered Committee has been constituted to
oversee the implementation and fund disbursement
under each sector of the scheme. The government
recognizes the significance of a transparent evaluation
process and aims to address information ambiguity to
ensure the scheme’s smooth functioning.
While the PLI Scheme is not intended to be democratic,
the government is open to constructive feedback and
suggestions from industry associations and players.
This approach enables continuous improvement
and ensures that the scheme evolves in line with the
industry’s needs and demands.
Looking ahead, the government’s future plans for
the textile industry revolve around fostering growth
and enhancing competitiveness. PLI 2.0 is a pivotal
component of these plans, aimed at providing a level
playing field for both large-scale and small-scale
industries.
AUGUST 2023
22 www.textilevaluechain.in
Corporate Speaks
Mr. Hitesh Wadher, VP, Head of Marketing,
Neochem:
“We are 44 years old company, we started
way back in 1979 and as of today, we have
developed a lot of products we have expanded
our facilities. We have around 3000 metric tons
of manufacturing in Ahmedabad, India. We are a
leading specialty chemicals company from India.
And ready to cater to the world. If we look at
global presence, right now we are almost all over
the world, south Asia, Australia, Canada, and
Latin America.
At ITMA we have launched our new series of Ester
Quats which is focused on plant derivatives and
we have two range of products which are based
on palm and as well as on soya. Which gives
excellent effects on fabrics, especially in terms of
softness. We have another range of products also
from pretreatment, dyeing, printing, finishing,
and specialty chemicals auxiliary for denim and
removal of lint from fabric.
We have a dedicated team of 20 professionals
from the textile industry so we can give the expert
know how the ways in which we can cater to the
industry.”
Mr. Hemang Shanghavi, Director, Laxmi Looms:
“Laxmi Looms has a long history of being
in business since 1988. We started with the
selling of weaving accessories, then we started
developing dobby, power looms, and rapier
looms. Today we have come to ITMA with our
high-speed rapier looms LHR 450, the reason
behind the development of the machine is due
to the requirement of the weavers. They want
to upgrade their weaving power looms with this
kind of technology which is easy and can be used
for flexible production, different kinds of fabrics,
and quality fabrics. This is the reason we took
part in ITMA.
We must say that it has provided us with a very
good platform, not only it is an opportunity
for sales, but this machine it is given us the
opportunity to look into the foray of textile
technical products.”
Meet the Indian Pavilion
at ITMA Milan 2023
Textile Value Chain talked with the Indian companies at ITMA
www.textilevaluechain.in 23
AUGUST 2023
Mr. Jagan Mohan Balaji, VP, LRT:
“In ITMA we are showcasing one of our
group companies, LEED (Laxmi Energy and
Environment Designs) which is focused on
environmental solutions. We offer everything
related to water and wastewater and solid
waste management. In wastewater, we have an
end-to-end solution with our ETP, STP, ZLD, and
RO plants. For Solid waste management, we
do biogas plants and we also have an organic
waste converter, which converts food waste to
compost. And if you want to generate electricity
we can also do that, provided the capacity of
food waste is more.
In LRT we have new tools, we have a new
traveler insertion tool for spindle monitoring
machines, which we have shown first time in
ITMA. Apart from that we also have cleaning
guns, EC 3 and FR 3 models. In ring Travelers,
we have constantly evolution so we have
improvements in our ruby finish, our sapphire
plus, and the express plus which will have more
improvements in the coming months.”
Mr. Darshan Bachkaniwala, Director, Himson
Engineering Pvt. LTD.
“We are based in Surat, and here we are
displaying our DTY machines and ATY machines
we have been in the industry for 15 years and
we want to show our presence here in ITMA
This ITME we have launched a combination
machine that will offer a variety of production
options for the customers it is a combination
machine of ATY and DTY. The second machine
we are offering is the upgraded DTY machine,
which will give customers a good reduction
in terms of operation cost, maintenance,
improvement in the quality of yarn produced,
and also power cost saving. The machine will
suit the requirements for future growth. “
AUGUST 2023
24 www.textilevaluechain.in
Corporate Speaks
Can you start by telling us a bit about
ERCA and its focus on the chemical
industry?
ERCA is one of the oldest Italian
chemical companies, and we
are fully dedicated to producing
chemical specialties. We
operate six plants across three
micro-regions, which are Latin
America, Europe, and Asia.
Can you elaborate on one of your
latest innovations, Revecol?
Revecol is an exceptional example of our
commitment to sustainability. It’s a new
generation of chemical auxiliaries that is
entirely based on recycled materials, specifically
exhausted cooking oil. We are proud to have
received various certifications, such as the
Global Recycled Standard (GRS) Certificate of
Compliance, RCS, listing in the gateway of ZDHC,
bluesign® approval, GOTS approval, and Product
CarbonFootprint(PCF).Infact,inNovember2022,
REVECOL® even won the RESPONSIBLE CARE®
award by Federchimica, the Italian federation
of the chemical industry. Moreover, it has been
included in the BAT (Best Available Techniques) by
the European Community.
Can you explain how this new production portfolio
contributes to circularity and sustainability?
Our focus with Revecol and other sustainable
innovationsistomovetowardsrealcircularityand
sustainability. Revecol’s use of recycled materials
reduces waste and minimizes the impact on the
environment. By utilizing exhausted cooking oil,
we are effectively repurposing a material that
would otherwise be discarded. This aligns with
our vision to promote true circularity in the
chemical industry.
You mentioned that leading companies
like Patagonia® and YKK have partnered
with ERCA to deploy Revecol. Can you
tell us more about this collaboration?
We are delighted to have leading
brands like Patagonia® and YKK on
board with us in this initiative. Together,
we have integrated Revecol into their
manufacturing processes, allowing
them to produce products that convey
the message of sustainability to the end
consumer. The collaboration shows that
these companies share our vision of a greener
and more sustainable future and are actively
taking steps to make a positive impact.
How do you measure the impact of innovations like
Revecol on the environment?
Measuring the impact of sustainable products is
crucial. The success of innovations like Revecol
is determined by how widely they are embraced
by the market and how much they contribute to
positive environmental change. We continuously
monitor the adoption of Revecol and other
sustainable solutions to gauge their ultimate
impact on the environment.
What are your plans to share Revecol and similar
advancements with the wider market and end
consumers?
We believe that now is the perfect time to share
Revecol and other sustainable innovations on
a larger scale. Strategic partnerships within the
industry are essential for driving widespread
adoption. We aim to collaborate with more
companies, both within and beyond the chemical
industry, to expand the reach of sustainable
products like Revecol to as many end consumers
as possible. Through these partnerships and
shared advancements, we can accelerate the
positive impact on the environment.
ERCA’s Revecol: Pioneering Sustainable
Innovations in the Chemical Industry
Textile Value Chain talks with Mr. Fabio Locatelli, Head of BU Textile Specialties, ERCA at ITMA 2023
AUGUST 2023
28 www.textilevaluechain.in
ITMA Review
s a certified recycling company, SOEX operates
the world‘s first shoe recycling plant which is
still unrivalled in the industry. With the help of
this plant, valuable resources such as rubber, le- ather
and metal can be saved and shoes can be prepared for
reuse. In this way, the SOEX Group and Mercedes-Benz
AG will jointly save 25,000 pairs of safety shoes from
incineration every year. Since May, Mereceds-Benz has
therefore been urging its employees in Sindelfingen:
„Give your discarded safety shoes the chance now to
escape incineration and be recycled as materials for
new products – make the right throw!“
22 billion pairs of shoes are produced worldwide eve-
ry year. Calculations show that the global footwear in-
dustry produces as much CO2 annually as the whole of
Germany. This is also since a lot of resources are used
to produce shoes, which are not returned to the cycle
after use, but are wasted: The majority of shoes are
disposed of in residual waste after wearing and end up
in incineration; not even five percent are collected and
recycled. Before SOEX put the world‘s first shoe recyc-
ling plant into operation at its factory in Wolfen, recyc-
ling shoes was even considered impossible worldwide.
This is because usually more than 40 materials are so
firmly glued together in shoes that they can hardly be
separated.
But the SOEX Group made sure that leather and rubber
no longer ended up in the rubbish in masses and, to-
gether with its English partner In-Cycle and the French
company Eco TLC, developed the appropriate plant.
To-
gether they revolutionised shoe recycling. In the plant,
zip scraps, metal parts, leather, rubber and fabric
scraps are carefully separated from each other and can
then be reused as raw mate- rial for the manufacture
of other products.
Now the car manufacturer Mercedes-Benz AG is also
benefiting from the industry breakthrough in shoe
recycling. The advantage of recycling safety shoes is
alsothatasafetyshoeconsistsofonlyfourcomponents
and the effort required to separate them is therefore
very low. SOEX and Mercedes-Benz AG have thus found
a simple but sustainable solution to dispose of work
shoes sensibly and give them a second life. The result:
a valuable contribution to the reduction of leather and
rubber waste and the relief of the environment by
recovering new resources from old ones.
With their joint pilot project, SOEX and Mercedes-Benz
AG are setting an example that could be followed by
other Mercedes-Benz plants and that sets an indicator
for the sustainable recycling of safety footwear beyond
the automotive industry.
Until now, Mercedes-Benz had only one solution for
discarded safety shoes: the incineration plant. Up to now,
around 25 tonnes of shoes have been destroyed every
year at one of the automotive company‘s plants. The SOEX
Group now wants to change this and will recycle the worn
shoes for Mercedes-Benz AG. A pilot project between the
SOEX Group and Mercedes-Benz AG started in May. The
discarded safety shoes will be collected in a total of six
containers on the Mercedes-Benz factory in Sindelfingen
and then recycled at the SOEX plant in Wolfen.
SOEX and Mercedes-Benz
AG save tonnes of work
shoes from disposal
A
AUGUST 2023
32 www.textilevaluechain.in
ITMA Review
ecnorama is the leader in dyeing laboratory
automation thanks to its patented DosDye®
systems that allows to obtain the exact recipe
(RIGHT FIRST TIME) to be replicated in bulk machines
that drastically reduce corrections in production and
re-dyeing with significant time savings and increased
productivity. For more than 35 years, the company
has been developing high-tech products with a strong
innovative connotation: it acknowledges and analyses
market needs and develops products to meet the
highest market expectations. Tecnorama has seen
steady growth over the years because its proposed
values have always been appreciated by customers
who recognize its cutting-edge technology, innovative
results,attentiontotheenvironment,customercarewith
tailor-made solutions, and pre- and after-sales support.
The leadership position is also corroborated by being
considered as a benchmark by the market so that
the machines developed and built in Tecnorama
are often emulated by companies that cannot count
on the same expertise and are therefore unable to
offer equally reliable products of comparable quality.
Being competitive for dyehouses means adopting
strategies and processes that improve production
efficiency, that’s the plus of the original DosDye®
systems: cutting lab costs, avoiding errors, optimizing
reliability and reproducibility to improve production.
The company pursues its goals with continuous and
significant investment in RD and by developing
in-house departments capable of responding to
demands for product innovation and commercial
follow-up. It’s been a while since the founders have,
with foresight, adopted a strategy to continue growing
maintaining market leadership. In this spirit, Mario
Scatizzi and Romana Barni have set up a management
team capable of continuing to run the company
with the same energy they always expressed.
ITMA 2023 was an opportunity to confirm Alessandro
Giugni as CEO and the entire management team
formed by the professional figures who have
contributed to the company’s success for many years.
The new products that Tecnorama exhibited
at the fair also made their mark at this ITMA.
Perfectly integrated into the DosDye® systems for the
laboratory, the high-performance Dosorama MASTER
and the Dyrama 4R/1000 for dyeing yarns with a
capacity of 1kg were the major innovations physically
present in the booth. There was also great resonance
for the DosDye® 6000 Just in Time system for dyeing
small batches, which has already been chosen by
prestigious internationally recognized companies.
The company pursues its
goals with continuous and
significant investment in RD
and by developing in-house
departments capable of
responding to demands
for product innovation and
commercial follow-up.
T
Tecnorama: ITMA 23
confirms the leadership
AUGUST 2023
34 www.textilevaluechain.in
ITMA Review
iera Milano was from June 8 - 14 2023 home to
ITMA, the world’s largest international textile and
garment technology exhibition. SPGPrints took
a different approach to the show by focusing on the
customers’ needs and sustainability. By showcasing
its reliable, innovative, and sustainable solutions
SPGPrints looks back at a very successful ITMA 2023.
Sustainability put into practice
Participating in ITMA, SPGPrints found it very important
to do so sustainably, with the ambition to have a small
environmental footprint and a 100% renewable booth.
Not only talk the talk but also walk the walk. This led
to a booth that consisted of recyclable and reusable
materials, for instance, a chip wood floor and a large
printed curtain as a booth divider. In order to keep the
footprint low and not create excess waste, no running
machines were present. This was highlighted by placing
the machines tilted, which also created a spectacular
look.
High-quality customer conversations
The different booth approach also meant that
SPGPrints could better address customer-specific
questions and challenges since the focus was not on
machines but on the complete know-how and portfolio
SPGPrints has to offer. This was also highlighted during
the several TECHTalks, in which industry relevant
topics like sustainable printing, when rotary/when
digital, and others were presented multiple times
per day. SPGPrints even looked into the future with
a presentation about Future Fabric, in which the
combination of textile printing and printed electronics
was explained and made practically applicable.
Continuous innovation
As the inventor of rotary screen technology and
initiator of digital textile printing, SPGPrints showed
innovations in both rotary screen and digital printing.
For rotary screen printing the TEAK, 2.45 meters
including universal repeat, was showcased and the
Eucalyptus, 3.25 meters wide printer was announced.
Also, the new laser engraver Maple and the textile
screens portfolio were put in the spotlight, emphasizing
the paste-savings which add up to 22%!
For digital printing, innovation was shown by the
complete portfolio of 6 printer models SPGPrints
has to offer. The good-better-best approach leads
to a solution for every situation, depending on the
customer’s needs, especially in combination with the
SPGPrints inks, like the pigments with a binder in the
ink. And the introduction of Archer+ Pro shows that
also on software SPGPrints keeps innovating. Archer+
Pro automatically corrects print head deviations and
alignments, maximizing print quality and productivity.
Customers choose SPGPrints
The focus on customers’ questions and challenges, the
new approach, and the complete portfolio has also
led to commercial success, even more than expected.
SPGPrints signed contracts with customers from all
over the world for digital machines, rotary machines,
engraving equipment, and consumable contracts
which confirms that SPGPrints really is, a total solution
provider.
SPGPrints demonstrates
innovation and sustainability
F
AUGUST 2023
38 www.textilevaluechain.in
ITMA Review
hedesireforinnovationisexpressedintheability
and courage to change to be more efficient,
more present, including communication, and in
the flexibility and ability to respond to market needs.
Driven by the desire for the best performance, that is
not only technical, the company complied to the new
business languages, guaranteeing competence and
speed in answering to the many requests of customers
and especially to those customers who look to LAIP for
a personalized response to their needs for industrial
dyeing.
LAIP has thus supplied dyeing machines of entire
compartmentsinfactoriesspeciallymadebycustomers
to insert LAIP products, this is a sign of the established
trust that the market places in the company and in its
machines. The difference can be seen in the passion
that everyone puts into their work, from the engineers
to the assemblers, everyone committed to taking care
of even the smallest detail, seeking solutions closest
to the customer’s needs and innovation and to the
quality of all the elements of the machines.
A constant success that saw the company as a
protagonist at the recent ITMA: great affirmation of
esteem from customers who came to visit the booth
at the fair and excellent feedback from a great number
of new customers who appreciated the work and
production capabilities.
LAIP presented new and higher performing machines
in addition to its great classics:
198 HT, the highly demanded machine for tow –
packages and fibre dyeing, it allows the same liquor
ratio to be maintained even with partial loads!
BID, (Bobbins Injection Dyeing) ensures absolute
repeatability,productivityandreliabilityformulticolour
printing and dyeing of yarn in bobbins.
Nautilus, the cutting-edge machine. Conceived with
a double belt, it is suitable for dyeing delicate fabrics
keeping the low liquor ratio constant by the maximum
fabric load up to 40 %. The low water consumption
means low electrical consumption and energy saving.
250 HT Jet, the easy machine that never stops to get
perfectly dyed fabrics with no abrasions nor creases.
Beam, the ideal machine to dye high end silk and
technical fabrics, tubular and warp knit for sportwear
enabling the optimisation of production times and
superlative technical performance.
One constant is to be able to make machines that can
prove effective in all-around energy savings, not an
easy task in dyeing sector, and LAIP, as always, meets
the challenge and the results are manifest. Less water
consumption, more efficient components, more
automation and indeed, significant energy savings.
LAIP: the
present is an
expression of a
future project
This is one of the keys to comprehend LAIP’s productive strength, a desire for constant renewal,
acceptance of new market challenges, new technologies, and the ability to have a constant dialogue with
customers, not only before and during the sale, also aftersale.
T
APRIL 2023
2 www.textilevaluechain.in
Cover Story
AUGUST 2023
42 www.textilevaluechain.in
ITMA Review
n international audience gathered at the
Groz-Beckert booth: guests came from 84
different countries. The majority of visitors
came from Italy with just under 15 percent, followed by
Germany with 14 percent, Turkey with 11 percent, India
with 9 percent and the USA with 3 percent. For the first
time, HR specialists were on hand at the Groz-Beckert
booth to look after the student groups, offering the
young people comprehensive insights together with
experts from the Technology and Development Center
(TEZ).
Groz-Beckert presented numerous innovations from
its six product divisions Knitting, Weaving, Felting,
Tufting, Carding and Sewing at the ITMA. One focus
of the innovations was on the topics of efficiency,
process stability and sustainability. While the topic of
sustainability was reflected in the products on the one
hand, a separate area in the Groz-Beckert Gallery was
dedicated to the topic on the other. Here it was shown
what contribution Groz-Beckert is making to making its
own productions and its sites sustainable.
The Gallery also offered insights into general topics
relating to Groz-Beckert in form of graphics, animations
and videos. Small explanatory texts provided additional
backgroundinformation.TheGalleryenabledvisitorsto
get to know the company from a different perspective.
A special magnet of the booth was the Cooperation
Corner of the Knitting product area. Here, two new
knitting systems and a new compound needle for
circular knitting machines were presented, which were
developed together with machine manufacturers.
In addition, live presentations were held to highlight
the successful cooperations in greater detail. The flat
knitting, legwear and warp knitting product groups
also had innovations in store: from special application
needles (SANTM
) and long-life dur™ needles to new
modules and system parts.
The Weaving division impressed trade show visitors
with its innovative technical weaving reeds. The new
product enables the supply in the production of fabrics
of high fineness, e.g. for filtration (both wire and
plastic fabrics). The division also recorded a special
trade show success: the demonstration model of
the WarpMasterPlus was sold directly in Milan to a
customer in Turkey.
The Felting (Nonwovens) product area presented no
less than two world firsts at the fair: a needle with a
new notch design and the Groz-Beckert felting needle
module for the innovative MicroPunch intensive
needling technology (Dilo). Both products met with
very great visitor interest.
The Tufting product area presented its proven
Gauge Part System for the production of tufted floor
coverings. At the booth, customers were able to see
for themselves that the components in the Gauge Part
System from Groz-Beckert are perfectly coordinated
and guarantee smooth interaction.
Various new and further developments were also on
show in the Carding product area. For the nonwovens
industry, the division presented, among other things,
the world’s finest interlinked card clothing for reduced
crash risk. For the spinning industry, the area exhibited
a new maintenance-free reel clothing with increased
service life and lower maintenance costs.
The Sewing product area also enjoyed a high number
of specific visitors – even though ITMA does not focus
on the sewing industry. Interest in the division’s various
special application needles (SANTM
) was correspond-
ingly high. Likewise, the patented quality management
system INH (Ideal Needle Handling) received a lot of
attention.
The appearance of the Technology and Development
Center (TEZ) completed the Groz-Beckert booth.
The TEZ experts presented to interested visitors the
numerous opportunities available to customers and
partners at the TEZ. In cooperation with external
partners, the TEZ can be used as an optimization,
development or business partner – depending on
requirements and customer wishes.
Groz-Beckert welcomes over 7,000
visitor at ITMA booth
A
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AUGUST 2023
44 www.textilevaluechain.in
ITMA Review
enninger aims to become the complete system
supplier with leading technology for continuous
wet processing, and discontinuous dyeing and
remaintheleaderforsolutionsforthetirecordindustry.
We take seriously our responsibility toward sustainable
textile production and have always stood for textile
finishing plants that are particularly resource efficient.
We supply overall solutions for all important textile
wet-finishing processes, and we specialize in the
continuous open-width treatment of woven and
knitted fabrics, technical textiles as well as jet dyeing
machines, and jiggers, along with the complete and
integrated dye house supply systems such as liquid
dispensing, salt, and soda ash distributing systems as
well as dyestuff distribution systems. Our portfolio also
includes caustic soda recovery plants and waste-water
heat recovery systems. Thanks to our comprehensive
process know-how and deep engineering
understanding we offer high-quality installations with
excellent customer service.
With our solutions, producers will make a huge
contribution to Decarbonizing Textiles.
At the ITMA Milano our team of experts and textile
technologists will help customers to navigate through
the vast world of textile wet processing.
“Look and feel” our all-new singeing machine SingeRay
in 21st-century design. The SingeRay will be the key
factor to upgrading your fabric instantly for the perfect
finish and dye. All this reduces your gas bill, due to its
unique features.
Ladies love ropes of pearls. And we have one which
we would love to show you with enthusiasm and
much detail. The FabricMaster, the new Soft Flow
Dyeing machine of Benninger, stands for brilliantly
better consumption values and impresses with its
high-quality fabric appearance and elegant touch. True
to the company motto: “You can feel, it’s Benninger.”
We take care that your fabric will be pearls.
And if you decide to want to dye 100% salt-free,
the team will fascinate you with the outstanding
Cold-Pad-Batch (CPB) Dyeing station. The heart is of
course the 2 Kusters S-rolls, guaranteeing 100% level
dyeing results with no listing nor tailing at less than 1l/
Kg water consumption. 
Road to Net Zero with the leader
in continuous wet processing and
jet dyeing technology
B
AUGUST 2023
48 www.textilevaluechain.in
ITMA Review
hese are the main results of
the 45th
annual International
Textile Machinery Shipment
Statistics (ITMSS) just released by the
International Textile Manufacturers
Federation (ITMF). The report covers six
segments of textile machinery, namely
spinning, draw-texturing, weaving,
large circular knitting, flat knitting, and
finishing. A summary of the findings
for each category is presented below.
The 2022 survey has been compiled in
cooperation with more than 200 textile
machinery manufacturers representing
a comprehensive measure of world
production.
Spinning Machinery
The total number of shipped short-staple
spindles increased by 2,1 million units in
2022toalevelof9.76million.Mostofthe
new shipments went to Asia  Oceania
(86%) where deliveries increased by
+21% compared to 2021. Europe (incl.
Türkiye) and America, North, rank 2nd
and
3rd
with respect to new deliveries. While
levels remained relatively small in Africa,
the region ranked 4th
and experienced
the strongest surge in year-on-year
shipments with a +290%-increase
(primarily going to Egypt). The six largest
investors in the short-staple segment
were China, India, Bangladesh, Pakistan,
Türkiye, and Uzbekistan.
1,28 million open-end rotors were
shipped worldwide in 2022. This
represents 587 thousand additional
units compared to 2021. 87% of global
shipments went to Asia  Oceania
where deliveries increased by +91%
to 1,1 million rotors. China, India,
and Turkey were the world’s 3 largest
investors in rotors and saw investments
surging by +67%, +261% and +91%,
respectively. Deliveries of rotors rose in
all major destination countries except for
Vietnam and Brazil, the 7th
and 8th
largest
destinations in 2022, where shipment
of rotors decreased by -34% and -30%
compared to 2021 (totalling around 15
thousand units in each case).
Shipments of new textile machinery
decreased in most segments in 2022,
except in spinning
In 2022, global
shipments of new
short-staple spindles,
open-end rotors,
and long-staple
spindles rose by +27%,
+85%, and +195%,
respectively (year-on-
year). Deliveries of
draw-texturing spindles
decreased by -13%
and the number of
shipped shuttle-less
looms dropped by
-23%. Shipments
of large circular
knitting machines
declined by -27% and
shipped flat knitting
machines registered
a 24%-reduction. The
sum of all deliveries in
the finishing segment
decreased by -28% on
average.
T
www.textilevaluechain.in 49
AUGUST 2023
Global shipments of long-staple (wool) spindles
increased from 31,6 thousand in 2021 to 93’000 in
2022 (+195%). This effect was mainly driven by a rise
in deliveries to Asia  Oceania with a +435%-increase
in investment. 21% of total deliveries were shipped to
China, 20% to Uzbekistan, and 15% to Iran.
Texturing Machinery
Global shipments of single heater draw-texturing
spindles (mainly used for polyamide filaments)
decreased by -14% from nearly 75,1 thousand units
in 2021 to 64,4 thousand units in 2022. With a share
of 95%, Asia  Oceania remained the strongest
destination for single heater draw-texturing spindles
in 2022. China, Türkiye, and Japan were the 3 main
investors in this segment with a share of 84%, 3,5%,
and 2,3% of global deliveries, respectively.
Inthecategoryofdoubleheaterdraw-texturingspindles
(mainly used for polyester filaments), global shipments
decreased by -13% to a level of 756 thousand spindles.
Asia’s share of worldwide shipments remained at 95%
and China continued to be the world’s largest investor,
accounting for 86% of global shipments.
Weaving Machinery
In 2022, global shipments of shuttle-less looms
decreased by -23% to 114 thousand units. Deliveries
in the categories “air-jet” and “water-jet” dropped by
-13% and -38,4% to 39,3 and 46,6 thousand looms,
respectively. The number of “rapier and projectile”
looms rose by +5.3% to 28,3 thousand units. The
main destination for shuttle-less looms in 2022 was
Asia  Oceania with 93% of worldwide deliveries.
95%, 85%, and 97% of global air-jet, rapier/projectile,
and water-jet looms were shipped to that region,
respectively. The main investor for air-jet and water-jet
looms was China. The main investor for rapier-and-pro-
jectile looms was India with 11.4 thousand units (a
70%-increase compared to 2021).
Circular  Flat Knitting Machinery
Global shipments of large circular knitting machines
declined by -27% to 28’651 units in 2022. The region
Asia  Oceania was the world’s leading investor in this
category with 77% of global shipments. China was the
favoured destination with 45% of all deliveries (i.e.,
9’930 units) despite a decrease of -55% compared to
2021. India and Bangladesh ranked second and third
destinations with 3’105 and 2’644 units, respectively.
In 2022, the number of shipped electronic flat knitting
machines decreased by -24% to 72,6 thousand
machines. Asia  Oceania was the main destination for
such machines with a share of 83% of world shipments.
China remained the world’s largest investor with a
63%-share of total shipments despite a -41%-decrease
in investment. Shipments to the country dropped from
67,7 thousand units in 2021 to 39.6 thousand units in
2022.
Finishing Machinery
In the “fabrics continuous” segment, the number
of shipped stenters decreased by -35% from 2’750
units in 2021 to 1’780 units in 2022. This number
includes an estimate for the total number of stenters
shipped by companies which have not participated
to the ITMF survey to better grasp the global market
size for finishing machinery. Participating companies
reported a decrease in all other machine categories
covered in the report (between -2,5% for “Relax
Dryers / Tumblers” and -81% for “Bleaching – Line”),
with exception of “Singeing Line” which grew from 4
to 22 units. In the “fabrics discontinuous” segment,
the number of shipped “jigger dyeing / beam dyeing”
and “air jet dyeing” declined by -35% and -45% to 707
units and 675 units, respectively. In 2022, deliveries in
the categories “overflow dyeing” increased by +4% to
1’714 units.
China remained the world’s
largest investor with a 63%-share
of total shipments despite a
-41%-decrease in investment.
Shipments to the country dropped
from 67,7 thousand units in 2021
to 39.6 thousand units in 2022.
www.textilevaluechain.in 53
AUGUST 2023
he Integrated Draw Frame (IDF)
has developed remarkably in
recent years. Although there were
some doubts when the IDF first hit the
market twenty years ago, it has now
demonstrated its positive impact on short
spinning processes. “As a result, the IDF
is a key part of our product range today.
Two generations of this machine have
already delivered valuable performance
improvements for our spinning customers
worldwide. And our innovators have now
successfully created the third generation:
The new integrated draw frame IDF 3”,
says Jörg Schmitz, Senior Expert RD
Spinning Preparation.
Proven to deliver excellent quality
Trützschler’s technical experts decided
it was time to give the IDF a turbo boost
by adding components and features from
other areas of our draw frame portfolio,
including our popular autoleveller draw
frame TD 10. First, the team adapted
the precise, robust measuring devices
DISC LEVELLER and DISC MONITOR to
fit the specifications of card and IDF
3. The resulting IDF DL and IDF DM
interact perfectly with the existing
1-zone drafting system, which results in
more homogeneous slivers and higher
yarn quality. Switching to the IDF DL and
IDF DM system instead of the previous
measuring funnel adds more benefits
than advanced detection of sliver
deviations. The new system also works
entirely without compressed air, which
reduces operating costs.
Inaddition,theIDF3make-overincludesa
complete redesign of the drafting zone in
line with all Trützschler drafting systems.
This further stabilizes the drafting process
and significantly improves the yarn
imperfection total IPI for recycled fibers
and raw cotton, while also blending with
synthetics. Yarn strength and elongation
are also improved.
Can changer becomes a game changer
Improving the IDF is only possible if
innovators also look at the card and can
changer, because there is huge potential
if the interaction between the three
elements are optimally balanced. This is
particularly true for the DIRECT SPINNING
process, with its small can sizes. Each
time a full can is replaced by an empty
IDF 3: The shortest path to
perfect quality
Usually, it’s not
possible to get
everything you want.
But with the new
integrated draw frame
IDF 3, you really can.
It offers a range of
innovative features
that give customers
even better quality,
efficiency and handling
– as well as accelerated
can change times and
improved productivity.
T
ITMA Review
AUGUST 2023
54 www.textilevaluechain.in
ITMA Review
can, the delivery speed of the card and
IDF needs to be drastically reduced – and
this slows down the production process.
Every second that can be saved from this
can change process adds to the overall
productivity. In this context, our teams
have optimized the can changer to save
our customer’s valuable time. The delivery
speed of the IDF 3 stays at the high level
of 300 m/min during can changes, which
increases efficiency by 3 %.
Easy operation, great performance and
high quality
It’s essential that machines are easy to
operate and offer good accessibility in
order to enable accurate machine settings
and effective maintenance. For this reason,
the IDF 3 is designed to open directly
towards the operator. This makes it easy to
reach all of the adjustment points within
the working area.
Thanks to our QUICK START autopiecing
function, operators do not need to open
the drafting unit. Instead, they simply
insert the sliver end into the IDF DL, which
saves up to 60 seconds during each piecing
event. Depending on the number of piecing
processes performed, this saved time
quickly adds up to a significant increase in
productivity. Trützschler’s technicians have
also improved the pressure adjustment
on the IDF 3 by adding an easy-to-reach
digital pressure manometer. This makes
it possible to precisely set the pressure
and directly monitor limits on the drafting
system via the display screen. The IDF 3
can also be configured with the exclusive
Trützschler features T-LED, SMART TOUCH
and RFID to further enhance handling.
Our third generation of IDF proves that you
really can have it all. Customers benefit
from better quality, higher efficiency and
easier handling.
Two examples of
improvements
for Ne 10 and Ne
30 with different
material mix.
Trützschler’s
technicians have
also improved
the pressure
adjustment on the
IDF 3 by adding
an easy-to-reach
digital pressure
manometer.
AUGUST 2023
56 www.textilevaluechain.in
ITMA Review
or years, spinners have relied on LMW machines
to harness the advantages of spinning recycled
fibers from various raw materials such as PET
bottles and fabric cut waste. LMW’s spinning line
enables the production of yarn from recycled materials
up to a count of 40 Ne, with a blend ratio of 80% pre
and post-consumer waste material and 20% virgin
cotton
The Gentle Blowroom line from LMW ensures efficient
opening and cleaning, effective microdust extraction,
optimal blending of fibers, and continuous feed to the
Card.
The Card LC363 facilitates higher production rates,
consistent quality, reduced lint loss, lower power
consumption, and high realization. Higher number
LMW, The Trendsetter in
Recycled Fibre Processing
The wide-ranging implications of the linear “make and discard” model have had a significant impact on climate
change and environmental degradation. Less than 1% of garments are currently being recycled, resulting in
over 70% of the world’s clothing ending up in landfills. In light of this, regenerated fibers play a crucial role in
promoting the circular economy and closing the loop. Recycling textiles offers numerous benefits, including a
70% reduction in energy consumption, 75% decrease in CO2 emissions, and an 86% decrease in water usage
compared to using virgin fabrics.
F
www.textilevaluechain.in 57
AUGUST 2023
of working flats and 3 lickerin arrangement ensures
effective opening of fibre clusters or unopened cloth.
Combing segment below the lickerin arrangement
along with Suction system arrangement and gravity
falling of waste helps to remove any cloth bits / foreign
matters effectively without loosing good fibres.
The precise Autolevelling Draw Frame LDF3 E supports
increased production with superior quality through
features such as Duo Digital Auto Levelling, a Change
Gearless drive system, and Auto piecing.
Auto Leveller Draw Frame LDF3 Series
LMW Smart series machines are highly suitable for
mechanical recycling and have gained popularity with
over 150 recycling installations worldwide.
Over 500 cards from LMW are currently operating
successfully in various recycling clusters contributing to
a total production volume of 32.67 lakh tons per year,
complemented by LMW Gentle Blowroom machinery.
The LMW Smart Ring Frame, combined with the most
suitable preparatory machines for Ring spinning and
Open End applications, effectively produces recycled
yarn.
Fostering Eco-sensitive Success with benchmarking
standards
Reysan Iplik, İstanbul, Türkiye, with its fixed and
unchanging commitment towards environment first
approach is successfully achieving counts up to 20s Ne
for a blend ratio of 90% Regenerated Fibre and 10%
Polyester on LMW preparatory machines.
Camci Tekstil, Uşak, Türkiye, leading by example with
its environment sensitive approach is spinning counts
up to 20s Ne for a blend ratio of 70% Regenerated Fibre
and 30% Polyester on LMW preparatory machines.
Vardhman ReNova, the fiber recycling plant of
Vardhman Group, India, boasts a production capacity
of 6 TPD and is designed to recycle Yarn Hard Waste/
Fabric Clippings into usable fiber. Equipped with LMW
Smart machines, the Vardhman Group mills have
successfully facilitated the spinning of recycled yarns
with counts like 24s Ne and 30s Ne, using a blend
ratio of 30% recycled cotton, 40% recycled polyester,
and 30% virgin cotton. To demonstrate the quality
and applicability of the ring yarn spun from recycled
material,LMWconductedapilotprojectmanufacturing
T-shirts made from recycled yarn and presented them
to the entire customer base during ITME 2022 at India
and ITMA 2023 at Milan for widespread use.
Kanchan India Limited, based in Rajasthan, India is
dedicated to sustainable production and actively
manufactures recycled yarns in response to the
growing market demand. LMW machines are used at
Kanchan India Limited to produce recycled yarns from
recycled PET bottle fiber and fabric cut waste.
LMW’s commitment to sustainability has led to a
collaborationwithMaduraCoatsforthecommissioning
of the A-Z pilot project “Coats Sustainability Hub” in
Madurai. This Sustainability Hub will accelerate the
transitiontorecycledandrenewablematerials,support
customers and stakeholders in creating sustainability
within the industry, drive sustainability innovation,
enhance brand collaborations, and facilitate the rapid
development and introduction of sustainable products
to the market.
The transformation of the textile value chain to
align with the guiding principles of the circular
economy is already underway, and as a pioneer in
textile technology, LMW will play a crucial role in this
transformation process.
At LMW, Sustainability is a way of life ...
www.textilevaluechain.in 59
AUGUST 2023
“ITMA was also 2023 a great platform to present our
products and services to a wide trade audience. The
fair exceeded our expectations in all areas. Given the
circumstan- ces, the economic slowdown and crises
in the textile industry we were overwhelmed by the
interest and feedback generated. The high frequency
of visitors to our booth that continued until the very
end gave us all the opportunities to intensify existing
business relations, generate important deals and make
valuable new contacts“ Managing Part- ner Robert
Czajkowski said.
The showcased 8-lock blockbuster I3P 196 premiering
with the integrable Smartex inspection system, is only
one example of Terrot’s ability to manufacture world’s
best circular knitting machines and its dedication to
constantly improve their outstanding customer value
in terms of productivity, efficiency and flexibility.
The demand for innovative technical solutions will
continue to increase being additio- nally fueled by
digitization. With the continuous development of
value-added technolo- gies and customer-centric
solutions we are best positioned to be successful in
the mar- kets. Responding to our customers‘ needs
and offering reliable, easy-to-use solutions is one of
our USP’s and at the same time of highest customer
relevance.
„The market response at the ITMA confirms the high
demand for Terrot machines as well as our technical
solutions. This is an incredible source of motivation for
our team and a constant incentive to deal with all the
challenges ahead of us. I am convinced that with the
strength of our dedicated staff, agents and partners, we
will be able to meet any of the challenges arising. We
are already looking forward to ITMA 2027 in Hannover
„ Czajkowski adds.
Many thanks to our fantastic team, our loyal agents
and partners, and our valued custo- mers for making
ITMA 2023 a great success for Terrot!
ITMA HIGHLIGHTS:
• The I3P 196 OW a highly flexible and productive,
interlock and fine rib machine with open width
frame that has been much demanded globally in
the past years. The I3P 196 is a creates „8-lock“,
interlock and modified structures like punto di
roma, mila- no rib, piqué rodier and also racer mesh
with maximum efficiency. Equipped with up to 4
needle tracks in cylinder cam and 2 needle tracks in
dial cam the I3P 196 promises maximum flexibility
and a wide range of pattern options.
At ITMA it was combined with the latest technology
of our partner Smartex. Their build-in CORE system
gives the customer the power of latest hardware and
software technology to control their fabric production,
inspecting every inch of fabric using arti-
Terrot Showed A Strong
Line-Up at the ITMA 2023
With an impressive combination
of new developments, enhanced
blockbusters and ever-growing
variety of leading applications
the company presented at the
fair a highly demanded range
of solutions, in particular for
mattress ticking, upholstery,
sports and functional wear
clients.
ITMA Review
AUGUST 2023
60 www.textilevaluechain.in
ficial intelligence algorithms,
which are constantly being
upgraded. Smartex’s patented
hardware set is comprised of an
AI-powered graphic processing
server, high resolution
cameras with machine learning
capabilities, and enhanced
lighting for optimal grei-ge
fabric inspection controlled by
an intuitive industrial grade
touchscreen interface. Smartex’
software provides the customer
with 24/7 access to real-time production in- formation
including automated roll maps, business intelligence
data, and performance analysis from anywhere, using
their preferred device (computer, tablet, smartphone).
• The UCC 672-ME in 3-way technology in dial and
cylinder is Terrot’s flagship in the production of
highest quality mattress covers, upholstery and
fashion with unlimi- ted pattern possibilities on both
fabric sides. With 88 feeders at 38“ (available from
34“ to 42“), newly developed dial needle selection
and reliable elastane plating, the model’s flexibility
and extremely high productivity are the newest
demonstration of Terrot’s reputation as world’s
leading producer of most sophisticated electronic
jacquard ma- chines.
• The Interlock model I 1120 as one of Terrot’s newly
designed circular knitting ma- chines with 34” and
136 feeders (30“ - 42“ on request) can be with many
innovative and current demand reflecting features
an attractive alternative to our blockbuster ever-
green the I 2108. You can reach maximum efficiency
and productivity with an industrial frame and fabric
rolls up to 1,050 mm. The
motorized fabric take-down
with three rol- lers and the
automatic winding-up device
supports industrial production
at its best.
• The UCC 572-T is Terrot’s
flagship in the production
of functional sport and
leisu- re textiles, offering
great flexibility and a high
production output. The
machine features a wide variety of applications
while producing single and double jersey structure
area combinations in addition to hole patterns. This
model makes designer’s dreams come true.
• Terrot extends its product portfolio even further
and launches the new JV-3.0, which stands for
high production outputs in the field of single jersey
fabrics.Thisveryproductiveknittingmachineiseasily
capable of a speed factor of 1,280. In addition, other
single structures like piqué can also be knitted with
the JV-3.0. Despite its high efficiency the machine
displays outstanding flexibility, long maintenance
cycles and unseen operational convenience.
• TheJSP5-4produceshigh-qualityplushwithuniform
loop lengths and provides a variety of different
applications for various market requirements like
fashion, home and technical textiles. Terrot offers
different highly productive single jersey knitting
ma- chines for nearly every application and is very
successful on the global market with its product
portfolio.
The machine features a wide variety of
applications while producing single and
double jersey structure area combinations
in addition to hole patterns. This model
makes designer’s dreams come true.
www.textilevaluechain.in 63
AUGUST 2023
t the core of Rimtex’s participation in ITMA 2023 was their
commitment to propelling spinning technology forward and
empowering spinning mills with transformative solutions.
Recognising the evolving needs of the yarn manufacturing industry,
Rimtex diligently manoeuvres its research  development and
steadfastly commits to spearheading the future of spinning. The buzz
surrounding Rimtex’s advancements was palpable as spinners eagerly
awaited the unveiling of their groundbreaking innovations at ITMA
2023. Rimtex Group unveiled two global launches that captivated
attendees and further solidified their reputation as industry leading
innovators.
Ground-breaking technology launched globally at ITMA 2023
One of the highlights of Rimtex’s showcase was the introduction of
Sumo Mini, a revolutionary spinning can be designed specifically
for open end and airjet spinning. This compact and exquisitely
designed Can boasts a remarkable upto 10% increase in sliver
loading capacity, providing spinners with enhanced productivity and
efficiency. The Sumo Mini’s cutting-edge features and unparalleled
sliver management capabilities garnered immense appreciation from
industry professionals, who recognized its potential to significantly
impact yarn realization.
In addition to the Sumo Mini, Rimtex Group proudly presented the
Rimtex Group Redefines Spinning
Innovations at ITMA 2023 with
Transformative Technologies
The highly anticipated ITMA
2023 event in Milan witnessed a
remarkable display of innovation
and excellence by Rimtex Group, a
leading manufacturer of spinning
cans, rings  travellers, castors 
wheels and more. With a legacy
built on quality and innovation,
Rimtex showcased their latest
international line-up, leaving
industry stalwarts in awe and
garnering appreciation from
spinners worldwide. Under
the captivating theme ‘Here
to Transform’, Rimtex Group
showcased their visionary spinning
solutions. The Rimtex stand
became a hub of excitement
and engagement as visitors
witnessed the unveiling of Rimtex’s
transformative technologies.
A
ITMA Review
AUGUST 2023
64 www.textilevaluechain.in
ITMA Review
prototype of their latest advancement in autonomous
technology with Sliver Bot. This AI-enabled sliver
transportation solution aims to revolutionise material
movement within spinning mills, offering a seamless
and efficient method for transporting large-sized sliver
cans. The concept was demonstrated at the stand and
the industry hailed Sliver Bot as a game-changer in the
realm of spinning mill automation, acknowledging its
potential to streamline processes and enhance overall
productivity.
The unveiling of these two global launches further
reinforced Rimtex’s commitment to transformative
solutions that address the evolving needs of the
spinning industry. Spinners and industry experts alike
commended Rimtex Group for their dedication to
enhancing productivity, quality, and profitability for
their customers. Customers appreciated Rimtex’s
innovative approach amidst the growing trend of
ineffective enhancements in sliver handling that fail to
deliver tangible value. The Sumo Mini and Sliver Bot
were acknowledged as prime examples of Rimtex’s
ability to anticipate industry requirements and deliver
cutting-edge technologies that make a tangible
difference. On the other hand, Tango, the agile material
movement vehicle, is rapidly gaining popularity among
spinners for its seamless intra-facility transportation.
Tango effortlessly adapts to diverse mill environments
and can be operated by the existing workforce, offering
unparalleled precision and speed to mill operations.
WIZCAN gains patronage world-over
What also garnered a lot of interest was the
demonstration of Rimtex’s proprietary ‘Sliver
Intelligence’ product
W i z c a n
(patented). ‘Sliver Intelligence’ has evolved from being
a mere futuristic concept to an essential requirement
for sustaining the quality and efficiency standards of
the new-age spinning industry. International visitors
who have seen the Wizcan display at the Rimtex booth
are mighty impressed with the system, noting that
Wizcan reimagines the role of a sliver management
system and takes a giant leap forward into the realm
of Industry 4.0. Rimtex is excited to offer Wizcan to
the global spinning market, and spinning mills should
be eager to embrace this technology to improve their
operations.
The X-Axis introduces the idea of Spinning Well-being
The X-Axis is reshaping the spinning industry by
offering a fresh perspective to the process of selecting
spinning rings and travellers. Mills running with rings
and travelers beyond their optimal life are sacrificing
quality, productivity, and profitability, resulting in
significant losses. The company showcased that
focussing on achieving optimal results rather than
just longevity helps the spinner to reduce the ‘hidden
losses’ and gain a far more efficient and productive
spinning process. The X-axis has elevated itself as the
ultimate spinning solution provider in this regard.
Furthermore, the company provides a combination
of Xtensa Rings and Xgen Travelers to improve yarn
consistency, leading to better economics, increased
profitability, and enhanced competitiveness. With its
precision engineering and proven performance, the
X-Axis empowers spinners to stay ahead of the quality
curve. Extensive discussions between spinners and
experts from The X-axis research wing, confirmed the
data-backed claims of the company, enhancing its
position as a transformative force in the spinning rings
 travellers’ domain. The X-Axis offers free counselling
www.textilevaluechain.in 65
AUGUST 2023
and a state-of-the-art lab to check the status of
presently running rings and travelers, enabling spinners
to transform their daily production into a profitable
spinning mill. You can get in touch with their RESEARCH
 COUNSELLING CENTRE (RCC) and begin your mill’s
journey of transformation.
Kalpar Castors: Ushering Spinning mills to fluff-free
operations
Kalpar’s innovative castor wheels enable safe and
efficient sliver movement in the textile industry. With
27 years of experience, they offer specialized designs
for spinning cans and material handling equipment.
Many OEMs and mills endorsed the performance
of patent design Single Axle wheels and On-Toes,
with dust-free features that ensure uninterrupted
operations and minimise sliver breakage.
ITMA 2023 a resounding success: Receives visitors
from 70+ countries
Rimtex’s presence at ITMA 2023 was a testament to
their continuous drive for innovation. With decades of
experienceinleadingtechnologicalshiftsinthespinning
industry, Rimtex has earned the trust and admiration
of spinners worldwide. Mr. Gaurav Parmar, Director
of Rimtex Group, emphasised their commitment to
the spinning industry’s development, stating that the
industry looks up to Rimtex for solutions that set the
course for the future. He further highlighted Rimtex’s
passion, dedication, and innovative ideas that fuel
their pioneering technologies. Rimtex Group continues
to empower spinners worldwide, enabling them to
embrace sustainable practices, enhance productivity,
and achieve unparalleled quality in yarn production.
ITMA 2023 has provided a platform for Rimtex Group
to make their mark once again, leaving an indelible
impression on the spinning industry and setting the
stage for a future that is truly transformative. As
spinners continue to adapt to the fast-paced world
of AI-enabled technologies, Rimtex Group remains at
the forefront of innovation, offering transformative
solutions that elevate the spinning industry to new
heights.
In conclusion, Rimtex Group’s participation in ITMA
2023 proved to be a resounding success. Visitors
from around 70+ countries, witnessed our display and
expressed their keen interest in the wide innovation
basket offered by Rimtex group. Their unveiling of
Sumo Mini and Sliver Bot generated tremendous
excitement and positive feedback from industry
professionals, reaffirming Rimtex’s position as an as
an industry leader and showcased their unwavering
commitment to pushing the boundaries of what is
possible in spinning technology. 
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TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN
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website : www.textilevaluechain.in, email : sales@textilevaluechain.com, Call/ Whats App : +91 9167986305
AUGUST 2023
68 www.textilevaluechain.in
CorporateView
n the heartwarming ambiance of The Yarn Bazaar
Roundtable Show, we welcomed a group of textile
industry experts who brought with them a wealth
of knowledge and experience. Gathered around the
virtual roundtable, they shared their perspectives
on the crucial role played by quality in our dynamic
textile industry. The topic of the roundtable discussion
was “Quality As Key To Success In The Indian Textile
Industry”.
To achieve growth and success, manufacturers must
prioritize the needs and preferences of their customers
and focus on delivering value through their products
and services. By understanding and meeting customer
demands, manufacturers can build strong and lasting
relationships, which will ultimately lead to sustainable
growth and competitiveness in the market. The shift
from a traditional production-focused mindset to a
customer-oriented one is essential for manufacturers
to adapt to changing market dynamics, stay relevant,
and thrive in today’s business landscape. Talking
about the customer-centric approach , Mr. Sanjay
Arora, Associate Director, Wazir Advisors quoted
““Manufacturing industry now has to think like the
service industry. Unless and until they do not start to
think like the service industry they can’t grow.”
In the Indian textile industry, realizing the value of
educated workforce can have a transformative impact.
By providing comprehensive training to the workforce,
companies can nurture a culture of quality at every
level within the organization. Well-trained employees
are better equipped to handle challenges, adapt to
technological advancements, and maintain consistent
production standards. This, in turn, enhances
productivity and efficiency, leading to improved
customer satisfaction and brand reputation.
Quality: A Key to Success in the
Indian Textile Industry: Excerpt
from The Yarn Bazaar Roundtable
By Mr. Pratik Gadia (Founder  CEO, The Yarn Bazaar)
I
www.textilevaluechain.in 69
AUGUST 2023
Mr. Balkrishna Sharma, Joint President  Business
Head, Ginni Filaments Ltd spoke about the importance
of employee training and quoted “Investing in
employee training programs is a game changer. Then
only you can create a culture of quality at every level
within the company.”
Mr. Vikas Sharan, Former Director India Operations
Saurer Textile Solution Pvt Ltd expressed his views as
“ Based on the segment we are operating in, we have
to ensure that we have to have optimum quality at
the best cost possible, utilizing the resources, i.e., man,
material, and machine.”
In the Indian textile industry, achieving optimal quality
at the best possible cost is a paramount objective for
sustainablegrowth.Itnecessitatesacarefulassessment
of the segment in which a company operates to tailor
strategies accordingly. By efficiently utilizing resources,
including skilled labor, quality materials, and advanced
machinery, manufacturers can strike the right balance
between cost-effectiveness and uncompromising
quality.
For businesses in this sector, the ultimate measure of
quality is the customer index, reflecting repeat orders
and positive word-of-mouth referrals. When customers
are delighted with the products and services, they not
only return for more purchases but also become brand
advocates, spreading positive reviews to attract new
clientele.
Mr Vilas Gharat, MD Gharat  Associates talked about
the customer retention and quoted “Quality for me is
customer index, by which I get repeat orders and the
same customer gives mouth publicity to give more and
more orders. This is the quality parameter for me.”
Achievingahighcustomerindexrequiresanunwavering
commitment to delivering superior products,
meeting specific requirements, and addressing
customer preferences. It involves understanding the
ever-evolving needs of consumers and adapting swiftly
to market trends.
Ensuring quality goes beyond just the end product; it
encompasses every aspect of the supply chain, from
sourcing raw materials to packaging and labeling.
Dr. Amit Lath, CEO Sharda Group of Companies shared
one of the real-time case study where a small act of
negligence costed the business a lot and impacted the
profitability of the business. Such incidents emphasize
the importance of vigilance and attention to detail
at every level of the manufacturing process. Quality
assurance measures should be integrated throughout
the organization, fostering a culture. “Cultural change
needs to come at various levels. Sometimes we receive
the products with the right quality but there are other
complications that we might see like wrong labelling,
wrong cartons. Quality needs to be assured at every
level”, said Dr Lath.
Among the other notable participants were Mr.
Piyush Chandarana (Business Head Chirpal Group
of Companies), Mr. Manish Joshi (Founder SnA
Pathfinders), Dr. SB Muttagi (Former Lecturer Govt
Polytechnic Nagpur), Mr. Pramod Raichurkar (Director
MANTRA) and Mr. Mayur Basuk (Deputy Director
WRA) those who shared their profound insights on the
subject of quality.
As we conclude this roundtable excerpt, we are
inspired by the dedication of industry leaders and
their shared commitment to elevating the standards
of quality. Let us carry forward these valuable insights
and work collaboratively towards propelling the Indian
textile industry to new heights of excellence and global
recognition. Together, we will weave a tapestry of
innovation and resilience that will define the future of
textiles in India.
You can watch and listen to all the Podcasts and
Roundtables on the official YouTube and Spotify
channel of The Yarn Bazaar.
AUGUST 2023
72 www.textilevaluechain.in
Expert Opinion
Current Trends in the Yarn Market
The yarn market is currently experiencing a subtle yet
discernible current of activity, particularly in select
products such as Hosiery and in specific regions like
Ludhiana, Kolkata, and NCR. This activity appears to
be driven by a surge in export sales in the first half of
July 2023, albeit at lower prices, indicating a complex
interplay of market forces. Empty pipelines, especially
in the domestic market, an increase in S-6 spot prices
from 56000/candy levels to 57000/candy  the closure
of 1800 spinning mills out of 2200 in Tamil Nadu could
be other reasons.
But before this Indian yarn market, encompassing
both exports and the domestic segment, has more
or less grappled with significant challenges that have
had a detrimental impact on spinning  denim units.
These challenges are predominantly centred around
declining capacity utilization, a factor primarily driven
by distress in demand. Rising interest rates, changing
consumer preferences, and inaccurate crop forecast-
ing further compound these challenges. Each of these
factors contributes to a market environment that is as
complex as it is challenging.
Impact of Global Events on the Yarn Market
Despite a ten-day bullish streak in yarns, the fabric
market paints a rather sombre picture. The consum-
er demand at the retail level, particularly in Europe
and the US, is marked by weak strokes, slowing down
the momentum of purchases. Inflated consumer pric-
es have emerged as a significant antagonist, casting a
long shadow over the demand for yarn.
The strategies of the world’s major central banks in
setting monetary policy amidst the easing signs of the
worst inflation crisis in a decade will be a pivotal chap-
ter in this narrative. Adding to the complexity of the
plot is the ongoing Russia-Ukraine conflict. This geopo-
litical drama continues to churn the markets, creating
uncertainty that discourages buyers from engaging in
new deals and fabric purchases.
The numbers tell a compelling part of this story. Textile
and apparel exports from India contracted by 11.3% in
June and 12.2% in May compared to the same period
in the previous year. In June 2023, spun yarn exports
fell from 115.5 Mn Kgs in May to 81.4 Mn Kgs, marking
a decrease of 29.5%. Similarly, cotton yarn exports also
dipped in June, from 89.2 Mn Kgs in May to 67.6 Mn
Kgs, a reduction of 24.2%.
Dealers’ Chess Game: The Wait-and-See Approach
and Manufacturers’ Challenges
Dealers are currently choosing to step back, adopting
a ‘wait and watch’ stance. They patiently waiting for
the fog of uncertainty to lift before making their next
move. This cautious approach underscores their desire
for more clarity in the market’s ever-shifting landscape.
Meanwhile, manufacturers catering to local markets
are finding themselves in a challenging position. A lack
of order placements from brands is resulting in a heavy
burden of finished inventories. The consequence? A
blockage of funds and delayed preparations for the
winter season, pushing them further into uncharted
waters.
Denim Capacity Utilization Dilemma
Denim capacity utilization has plummeted to less than
45%, indicating the severity of the challenges faced
by denim plants and export-oriented manufacturers.
Denim plants with in-house spinning facilities are now
looking to sell their yarn in the market. Export-oriented
By Mr. Balkrishan Sharma
Joint President  Business Head- Spinning,
Ginni Filaments
Geopolitical Disarray and
Distress in Demand:
An Inside Look at India’s
Current Textile Turbulence
www.textilevaluechain.in 73
AUGUST 2023
manufacturers are also experiencing difficulties, with
some even shutting down operations on weekends.
Currently, their capacities are functioning at less than
50%.
Cotton Prices and Its Impact
The price of S-6 cotton paints a stark picture of the cur-
rent scenario in the Indian yarn market. Over a span
of just 73 days, from May 1st to July 13th in FY23, cot-
ton prices plummeted from 61,750 rupees/candy to
56,000 rupees/candy, indicating a staggering decline
of 5,750 rupees/candy. This sharp decrease becomes
even more alarming when compared to the peak lev-
els of the cotton season, where prices reached a high
of 71,800 rupees/candy. This translates to a significant
decrease of 15,800 rupees/candy from the season’s
peak. The continuous downward trend in cotton prices
forced buyers in the value chain to adopt a cautious
approach till 14th
July, 23, delaying their buying deci-
sions However, it is only after 14th
July 23 that the pric-
es started increasing and reached up to 57000/candy,
thereby helping in yarn momentum to an extent.
Repercussions for Spinning Mills
The distress in demand, has had severe repercussions
for spinning mills in India. Yarn prices eased faster than
cotton prices due to sluggish demand from both the
export and domestic sectors. As a result, spinning mills
find themselves incurring cash losses. Many spinning
mills who were overly aggressive, chasing growth at all
costs, expanding too quickly or just don’t have a point
of differentiation have suffered, quickly pivoting into
cost cutting mode and are now playing from behind.
Furthermore, the high inventory of expensive cotton
further adds to their challenges. This dire situation has
led to spinning mills in Coimbatore declaring a halt in
production and the sale of yarn starting from July 15th
,
indicating the severity of the issue. Although some of
the spinning mills have agreed to restart production
this week, but will their demands be met is a question.
The Value Chain and Crop Forecasting
Ironically, the entire value chain, from farmers to gin-
ners and spinners, has suffered this season. Besides
demand, misleading figures regarding crop size also
played a villain. The estimation of a crop size of 298.5
lac bales by the Cotton Association of India in May led
value chain to anticipate a cotton shortage. However,
the actual figures indicate that the crop size might soar
to 330-340 lac bales. In fact, the CAI meeting on July
10th
, 2023, reported an increase in the projected cot-
ton crop for the season 2022-2023 by 12.83 lac bales
to 311.18 lac bales, while projecting a reduction of ex-
ports by 4 lac bales to 16 lac bales. Fast forward to July
21st, 2023, and 298 lac bales have already made their
arrival, with 256 lac bales already consumed. The ex-
port tally stands at 13 lac bales, and imports are close
behind at 12.5 lac bales. The expectation is that the
carry forward shall be close to 30-35 lac bales.
Need for Accurate Forecasting
The lack of accurate crop forecasting and consumption
figures hinders progress and highlights the need for
adopting reliable methods for forecasting crops and
understanding consumption patterns. Accurate fore-
casting methods and reliable data are essential for in-
formed decision-making and effective planning.
Challenges and Future Outlook
The textile industry is grappling with a trio of formi-
dable challenges. The distress in demand, inaccurate
crop forecasting, and shifting consumer preferences
for clothing - a necessity only surpassed by food, en-
ergy, and the need to service increasing interest rates
- have collectively thrown a spanner in the industry’s
growth and profitability. Regrettably, the horizon offers
little promise of a clear sky. The trend seems set on
its course, and the capital environment, strained and
taut, is expected to extend its influence well into 2024.
While whispers of a big new wave echo in the media,
the reality paints a different picture. The bustling activ-
ity in the retail sector has hit the pause button, taking a
breather. The pressure on consumer purchasing power,
now more intentional and discerning, is another signif-
icant factor. However, this pressure is expected to ease
off only when inflation starts to relent. While the de-
pletion in demand is a challenge that offers little room
for manoeuvre, there are other areas where proactive
steps can make a difference. It is crucial for all stake-
holders to adopt accurate forecasting methods, rely
on reliable data, and foster informed decision-making.
These are the compass, map, and rudder that can help
navigate the stormy seas of these challenges, steering
the industry towards calmer waters.
AUGUST 2023
76 www.textilevaluechain.in
ITMA Review
“We are more than satisfied with the
way ITMA went,” says Mahlo CEO
Rainer Mestermann. “After the events
of the last few years, we could not
automatically expect such a large crowd
at our stand and at the entire fair.” The
interdisciplinary team at the stand in
Hall 18, consisting of sales, application
technology and service staff from
Germany as well as the international
sales and service partners, received
visitors from all parts of the world. “Of
course, there was a strong influx from
Italy, but Turkey, India, Bangladesh,
Pakistan and Latin America were also
particularly well represented, in our
estimation.” The number of guests from
China was somewhat lower, but this is
understandable, as ITMA Asia is due to
take place there later this year.
At the Mahlo stand, guests could inform
themselves about the product portfolio
and the latest developments of the
machine manufacturer for process
optimisation in textile finishing. The
visitors felt very well looked after by the
internal and external team. “A workshop
preceding the ITMA at the headquarters
in Saal guaranteed that all contact
persons of the target markets were up to
date with the latest developments.” This
expertise was then in demand virtually
around the clock.
Energy saving methods on top of
clients’ agenda
The topics of quality, energy saving and
return on investment were at the top of
the agenda for many visitors. This was
accompanied by great interest in data
management and data recording. The
new X-Series concept for forward control
of knitwear with strong distortions
was particularly in focus. The Orthopac
RXVMC straightening machine, which
Mahlo looks back on the
successful trade fair
All expectations exceeded at Milan
After the rapid
and unpredictable
challenges of recent
years, ITMA 2023 was
eagerly awaited. The
world’s most important
textile trade fair has
always been a visitor
guarantor, but would
that be the case this
time? After a week at
the Fiera di Milano, it
is clear: expectations
were exceeded many
times over. The
stand of the German
machine builder Mahlo
GmbH + Co KG was
bustling from the first
to the last day.
www.textilevaluechain.in 77
AUGUST 2023
was presented for the first time in Milan, can
remove distortions in textile fabric webs even
faster and more precisely. The exhibit was
delivered to a customer in Italy after the fair.
Mahlo’s new X series concept convincing
customers
“With the new straightening concept, special
attention was paid to the straightening
mechanics and their interaction with the
analysis electronics of the scanner system,”
explains Head of Sales Thomas Höpfl.
Two individually controlled and driven
straightening modules with a total of four
bow and three skew rollers ensure that the
correction of bow and skew distortions takes
place in small steps. The control concept is
also new. A scanner group at the infeed of
the straightening machine detects distortions
even before they reach the correction rollers.
This way, the rollers are brought directly into
position and the fabric is corrected from the
very first centimetre. A scanner group at the
outlet also detects possible residual distortion,
which is corrected at the second straightening
module. This enables an even more precise
and faster response when it comes to reacting
to rapidly changing distortions. The Orthopac
RXVMC therefore shows its full strength when
straightening knitwear and distortion-sen-
sitive fabrics. It guarantees higher quality
goods and thus less waste. “Especially at a
time when our customers are under increased
cost pressure and competition in the textile
industry is intensifying, our new concept has
been convincing.”
Not only the exhibits proved to be a visitor
magnet, but traditionally also the Mahlo
bistro with its Bavarian specialties. With the
successful combination of high-tech and
Bavarian down-to-earthiness, Mahlo’s trade
fair appearance at ITMA 2023 was impressive.
 
Not only
the exhibits
proved to
be a visitor
magnet, but
traditionally
also the Mahlo
bistro with
its Bavarian
specialties.
Textile value Chain- Aug 2023
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Textile value Chain- Aug 2023
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Textile value Chain- Aug 2023

  • 1. ISSN NO : 2278-8972 l RNI NO : MAHENG/2012/43707 www.textilevaluechain.in AUGUST 2023 VOLUME 11 l ISSUE NO. 8 l RS 100 l PAGES 80 Connecting The Global Textiles Together POST ITMA Special Issue
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  • 6. www.textilevaluechain.in AUGUST 2023 4 RSB COTTEX GATEFOLD RAYSIL FRONT INSIDE NIVA 3 LMW 5 SAMBANDAM 7 SALONA 9 COLORJET 11 RIMTEX 13 TUREL 14 SAURER 15 REAL PRINCE 19 USTER 20 SHREEJI 21 TRUTZSCHLER 25 GSCS 26 SSPL 27 BHAGAT 29 ZYDEX 30 BADAMI 31 LUWA 33 KING YARNS 35 ARTYARN 36 YAMUNA 37 NEEVA TRADELINK 39 BRUCKNER 40 UNITECH 41 GOKUL ANAND 43 YARN EXPO SURAT 45 ALLIANCE 46 OMAX 47 ASSOCHAM 50 MEERA 51 GARTEX 52 YARN FAIR SHANGHAI 55 DIFS 58 SITEX 61 INTERTEX TUNISIA 62 WEAVEKNIT 66 ITMA ASIA 67 NON WOVEN TECH 70 UNIFORM 71 PAMEX 74 MOROCCO 75 DOMOTEX 78 CAIRO FASHIONTEX 79 GARTECH 104 TECHTEXTIL 105 BACK INSIDE RAYMOND BACK COVER LEADER SPEAKS CORPORATE SPEAKS CORPORATE VIEW POST EVENT MARKET REPORT ITMA REVIEW PLI: What Happened So Far and Anticipation of PLI 2.0 16 CEMATEX’s Plans for Singapore 10 Uster’s Cutting-Edge Innovations Unveiled at ITMA 12 Meet the Indian Pavilion at ITMA Milan 2023 22 ERCA’s Revecol: Pioneering Sustainable Innovations in the Chemical Industry 24 Quality: A Key to Success in the Indian Textile Industry: Excerpt from The Yarn Bazaar Roundtable 68 Expert Opinion Geopolitical Disarray and Distress in Demand: An Inside Look at India’s Current Textile Turbulence 72 ITMA 2023 in Review 90 A Report on the Half Day Seminar on “INNOVATIONS @ ITMA MILAN 2023” 96 Prof. M. D. TELI Endowment Inaugural Oration-2023 99 PM MITRA Park launched in Amravati, Maharashtra102 Textile Machinery Import - India 92 Textile Machinery Export - India 93 Man Made Fibres 94 Natural Fibres 95 SOEX and Mercedes-Benz AG save tonnes of work shoes from disposal 28 Tecnorama: ITMA 23 confirms the leadership 32 SPGPrints demonstrates innovation and sustainability 34 LAIP: the present is an expression of a future project 38 Groz-Beckert welcomes over 7,000 visitor at ITMA booth 42 Road to Net Zero with the leader in continuous wet processing and jet dyeing technology 44 Shipments of new textile machinery decreased in most segments in 2022, except in spinning 48 IDF 3: The shortest path to perfect quality 53 LMW, The Trendsetter in Recycled Fibre Processing 56 Terrot Showed A Strong Line-Up at the ITMA 2023 59 Rimtex Group Redefines Spinning Innovations at ITMA 2023 with Transformative Technologies 63 Mahlo looks back on the successful trade fair 76 Great Exhibition Platform for DiloGroup 80 Sappi at ITMA 2023 in Milan: High-quality textile products sprout where fashion meets forest 82 Fashion’s appetite for change palpable at ITMA 2023 84 ITMA Milan: A Success For Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers 85 Solid success for Monforts in South America and at ITMA 2023 87 Seminar On “Transformation in Textile World” Held in Surat on 15th July 2023 88 ADVERTISER INDEX COVER STORY CONTENT
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  • 8. AUGUST 2023 6 www.textilevaluechain.in India’s PLI scheme and the success of ITMA, Milan ndia's Production Linked Incentive (PLI) Scheme for Textiles, launched to promote the production of man-made fibre (MMF) apparel, MMF fabrics, and technical textiles, has achieved significant milestones. With 64 applications approved and a projected total investment of INR 197.98 billion, the scheme aims to boost India's textile industry's manufacturing capabilities and exports. However, manufacturers have expressed concerns about the scheme's limited scope, excluding cotton and certain textiles, and high financial requirements for eligibility. To address these issues, the government is gearing up for PLI 2.0, which is expected to focus on small and medium-sized businesses and expand to include apparel and home textiles. The updated scheme aims to strike a balance between incentivizing investments and generating employment, fostering inclusive growth in the industry. While the Indian government is gearing up to present the second edition of its prestigious PLI scheme, Cematex, an organization comprising 9 International European Textile machinery associations has completed the successful edition of ITMA Europe in Milan, Italy last month. The world’s largest trade fair for textile machinery saw a spike of visitors and exhibitors number looking for making new investments in technology and exhibiting the cutting edge machineries respectively. EDITORIAL TEAM EDITOR AND PUBLISHER Jigna Shah EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Gargi Dandegaonkar CREATIVE DESIGNER Asif Khan JUNIOR EDITOR Hrushikesh Takbhate MARKETING AND ADVERTISING ENQUIRY Mohammad Tanweer +91-9167986305 sales@textilevaluechain.com REGISTERED OFFICE: TVC MEDIA AND PROMOTION PVT LTD. 504, Suchita Business Park, Patel Chowk, Pantnagar, Ghatkopar (East), Mumbai- 400075, Maharashtra, INDIA. Cell: +91-9769442239 Email: info@textilevaluechain.com Web: www.textilevaluechain.com Owner, Publisher, Printer and Editor Ms. Jigna Shah Printed and Processed by her at, Impression Graphics, Gala no.13, Shivai Industrial Estate, Andheri Kurla Road, Sakinaka, Andheri(East), Mumbai 400072, Maharashtra, India. All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of any of the content from this issue is prohibited without explicit written permission of the publisher. Every effort has been made to ensure and present factual and accurate information. The views expressed in the articles published in this magazine are that of the respective authors and not necessarily that of the publisher. Textile Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely errors that might occur or any steps taken based in the information provided herewith. Editorial +91-9869634305 marketing@textilevaluechain.com Hrushikesh Takbhate I
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  • 10. AUGUST 2023 8 www.textilevaluechain.in Event Calender UPCOMING EVENTS EVENTS September 2023 31st Aug - 02nd Sep SOLAR+STORAGE NX Istanbul, Turkey https://solarstoragenx.com/ 07th -10th Sep ERBIL FASHIONTEX Erbil, Iraq https://erbilfashiontex.com/ 11th Sep SUSTAINABLE LEATHER FORUM Paris, France https://slf-paris.com/ 12th -14th Sept FIBER FILAMENT EXTRUSION FUNDAMENTALS Online Event https://www.inda.org/training/advanced-training.php 12th -14th Sept TECHTEXTIL Mumbai, India https://techtextil-india.in.messefrankfurt.com/ mumbai/en.html 13th - 16th Sept CEMS BANGLADESH Dhaka, Bangladesh https://www.bd.cems-yarnandfabric.com 13th - 15th Sept DORNBIRN GFC- GLOBAL FIBER CONGRESS Dornbirn, Austria https://www.dornbirn-gfc.com/de/home 14th 15th Sept PI APPAREL SUPPLY CHAIN FORUM New York, US https://apparel.pi.tv/events/76/Supply_Chain_Forum_New_York 14th -16th Sept MEDIA EXPO New Delhi, India www.mediaexpo-delhi.com 19th -21st Sept CINTE TECHNTEXTIL Shanghai, China. https://cinte-techtextil-china.hk.messefrankfurt.com/ shanghai/en.html 20th –21st Sept Filo Milan, Itlay www.filo.it 23rd - 25th Sept WEAVEKNIT Surat , India https://weaveknitt.sgcci.in 26th -28th Sept NONWOVEN TECH ASIA New Delhi, India https://nonwoventechasia.com/ 28th -30th Sept ITVC EXPO Surat, India https://www.assocham.org/event-detail. php?event=international-textile-value-chain-itvc-expo 28th – 01st Oct IBIA EXPO 2023 Istanbul, Turkey https://ibiaexpo.com/en/
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  • 12. AUGUST 2023 10 www.textilevaluechain.in Leader Speaks Textile Value Chain Talked with Mr. Ernesto Maurer, President of Cematex, the European Committee of Textile Machinery Manufacturers, and organizers of ITMA Exhibitions. ITMA has a show lineup in China and now also is venturing to Singapore, can you speak about it? We did a show successfully in Singapore in 2001, It had been a very successful show. The world has changed tremendously, and now we want to give space to countries like Bangladesh, Pakistan, and India to make sure they have access to the market. That’s why we are going to Singapore. The main reason we wanted to do the show is we want to give the International market to Asian markets and vice versa. I believe in being present in the market, that’s why we are going to Singapore, because it is a good location, for business and financing. And it is a very modern venue. The venue size is approx., 70000 sq. m., regarding the exhibitors, we didn’t make any projections yet. Are there any plans for ITMA to come to India? We don’t believe in competition. India already has India ITME which is also a four-year machinery show. If we do ITMA in India, there is a possibility that both shows will fail. We have here four-year show in Milan, we are doing ITMA Asia every two years in Shanghai and now in Singapore. For this edition of ITMA Europe, you launched ITMA Connect, what is it? It is the need of the world to go digital. That’s why we launched ITMA Connect, as a B2B portal for businesses and also to attract more visitors and exhibitors. We started it one month before and it will also be available after the ITMA show. It’s a start, we have to see how things go, we have to start somewhere. Other than your Singapore show, are there any plans for new shows in the coming years? I think we already have enough shows, we have ITMA Asia in Shanghai in November 2023, we are doing ITMA Europe again in Germany in 4 years, in 2024 again in Shanghai, 25 in Singapore, and 27 in Germany. This means we have international shows every year. We have ITMA Europe in Germany in 2027, it’s very simple when selecting the venues. With the size requirement, you don’t have that many options, Milan is a good venue, and Germany is even larger. It is very important to have modern amenities, logistics, etc. Now I am looking forward to Germany. So, it’s always a decision that we take, we have a long list of requirements and then we conclude. It has so many other factors, there are accessibility, logistics, storage for containers, etc. A lot of visitors face issues with Visa, how are you as an organizer addressing the issue? For ITMA Milan, we had very close contact with the Italian government, and they have put special efforts into the visa-approving procedure for the visitors. Regarding the visitors, I can only suggest to everybody to start the process in advance. I think it is very important to apply for an invitation through our website. After that, this is a political decision of the state, we can only encourage them on our behalf. With ITMA Europe, the EU has the same state of guidelines for every country which is part of the EU, so I think the visa process will be the same as Italy in Germany. For Singapore, it has a very open policy for visas, and I believe it will be easy for visitors. CEMATEX’s Plans for Singapore
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  • 14. AUGUST 2023 12 www.textilevaluechain.in Corporate Speaks Can you tell us about the latest innovations showcased at ITMA? At ITMA, we are proud to present significant developments in fiber-to-fabrics and connectivity. We’ve been working on this for thepast8years,startingwithourcollaboration with Uster for quality experts. Our focus is on offering solutions based on connectivity, and one of our latest offerings is the Uster 360Q. Can you explain what sets the Uster 360Q apart from your previous offerings? The Uster 360Q is a game-changer because we don’t just provide a product or software; instead, we offer a comprehensive solution at three levels. The first level involves state- of-the-art equipment with cutting-edge hardware. The second level includes software tools that help our customers integrate and make informed decisions. Lastly, we provide excellent support with our textile expertise. How does the Uster 360Q support raw material management and fabric inspection? With the Uster 360Q, we offer a powerful HVI (High Volume Instrument) and software to manage raw materials effectively. When it comes to fabric inspection, we’ve developed mainline process control for quality on the loom, equipped with the Q bar and AI defect classification. This allows us to detect issues like holes and seams in the fabric, and with the assistance of AI, our customers become an integral part of the solution. It significantly improves productivity and ensures better yields. Speaking of markets, how has the Indian textile market responded to Uster 360Q? The Indian market has been quite successful for us. India is an essential market. However, we’ve made a strategic decision not to market it worldwide due to the challenges in offering a f t e r - s a l e s services across all regions. Are there any specific products tailored to the Indian market’s unique needs? Interestingly, the Indian market is open and receptivetolong-terminvestments.Theydonot require any special products; they appreciate solutions that align with their sustainable and forward-looking approach. How does Uster address the sustainability question? Sustainability is indeed a significant factor driving change in the textile industry. At Uster, we invest heavily in meeting the market’s benchmark for sustainability. Our fabric inspection solutions and automation advancements help reduce waste and ensure efficient resource utilization. Can you tell us more about the global presence of Uster and how it connects you with clients? We have offices in various locations, including Shanghai,Coimbatore,andtheUSA.Thisglobal presence enables us to connect with clients across different regions, understand their specific needs, and foster strong relationships within the industry. Uster’s Cutting-Edge Innovations Unveiled at ITMA Textile Value Chain Talks with Mr. Joachim Maier, Marketing Manager, Uster Technologies at ITMA 2023
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  • 18. AUGUST 2023 16 www.textilevaluechain.in Cover Story By Hrushikesh Takbhate India’s textile industry, a major contributor to the country’s economy, has undergone significant transformations in recent times. To foster the growth and competitiveness of this vital sector, the Indian government introduced the Production Linked Incentive (PLI) Scheme for Textiles. The scheme’s primary objective was to promote the production of manmade fibre (MMF) apparel, MMF fabrics, and products of technical textiles, enabling the industry to achieve size and scale while becoming globally competitive. The government again opened the portal for the PLI scheme applications considering the request from the industry stakeholders. In light of the new development let us understand what has happened so far and what is the anticipation for PLI and PLI 2.0? Achievements of the PLI Scheme Under the PLI Scheme for Textiles, the government received a total of 67 applications from various textile investors. Out of these, 64 eligible applicants were selected to receive incentives over a span of five years. The approved applicants presented ambitious plans to invest significantly in the sector. The selected 64 applicants collectively proposed a substantial total investment of INR 197.98 billion. This infusion of funds aims to bolster the manufacturing capabilities and export potential of man-made fibre (MMF) apparel, MMF fabrics, and technical textiles. The scheme envisages that this investment will lead to substantial growth in the textile industry. Moreover, the approved applicants projected an impressive turnover of INR 1.939 trillion over the duration of the scheme. This significant projected turnover is expected to position India’s textile industry as a global competitor in the MMF and technical textiles segment. With the implementation of the PLI Scheme, the textile sector is anticipated to witness a surge in job opportunities.Theproposedinvestmentbytheselected applicants is projected to generate employment for approximately 245,362 individuals across the country. This boost in employment prospects is a crucial aspect of the scheme, contributing to economic growth and social development. However, the government and stakeholders are closely monitoring the progress and impact of the PLI Scheme. Feedback from manufacturers and experts is being considered to further fine-tune the scheme and address any challenges faced by the industry. Reception and Feedback from the Industry PLI: What Happened So Far and Anticipation of PLI 2.0 PLI 2.0’s lower investment thresholds are likely to attract a diverse range of companies from various segments of the textile industry. I
  • 19. www.textilevaluechain.in 17 AUGUST 2023 While the PLI Scheme for Textiles garnered attention and appreciation for its ambitious goals, it also faced criticism from manufacturers, who raised significant concerns about its design and implementation. One of the primary concerns raised by manufacturers was the limited scope of the PLI Scheme, which focused solely on man-made fibre (MMF) apparel, MMF fabrics, and technical textiles. The scheme’s exclusion of cotton textiles and certain other essential textiles raised eyebrows as cotton textiles constitute a significant portion of the overall market demand. Manufacturers argued that by excluding these major segments, the PLI Scheme might fail to address the broader needs of the textile industry. For example, the apparel segment, constituting approximately 73% of the total market, was not covered under the scheme. Similarly, certain key man-made textiles, like viscose, polyester, and nylon, were also left out of the scheme, limiting its potential impact. Another major concern expressed by manufacturers was the high financial requirements set for eligibility under the PLI Scheme. To qualify for incentives, companies were required to make substantial investments, with a minimum investment threshold of INR 1 billion or INR 3 billion, depending on the project’s scale. Meeting such stringent financial targets proved to be a significant challenge, especially for smaller players in the industry. Manufacturers argued that the prescribed investment thresholds, coupled with requirements of 25-60% value addition, were not suitable for the technical textile sector. These ambitious targets might lead to potential difficulties in achieving investments and turnovers, especially for companies operating in niche or emerging segments of the textile industry. Future Prospects: PLI 2.0 for Textiles The government’s forward-looking approach to the textile industry involves the anticipation of PLI 2.0. This second round of the PLI Scheme is expected to address some of the concerns raised during the initial phase and further boost the growth and competitiveness of the textile sector. One of the primary objectives of PLI 2.0 is to foster the growth of small and medium-sized businesses (SMEs) in the textile industry. The government recognizes the importance of inclusive growth, and PLI 2.0 is set to offer opportunities for SMEs to participate actively in the scheme. By lowering the investment thresholds, the government aims to encourage more SMEs to invest in the sector and contribute to its development. PLI 2.0 is expected to expand its scope to include the apparel segment and home textiles. Unlike the initial phase, where the focus was on man-made fibre (MMF) apparel, MMF fabrics, and technical textiles, the updated scheme will incorporate downstream products like readymade garments, home textiles (such as blankets and bedspreads), and textile accessories (like lace, buttons, and zippers). This expansion is a significant step to further propel the Indian textile industry and make it more comprehensive, catering to a wider range of products with high export potential. As the government gears up for PLI 2.0, discussions and drafts have emerged regarding the investment thresholds and incentives to be offered to the industry. PLI 2.0’s lower investment thresholds are likely to attract a diverse range of companies from various segments of the textile industry. The revised scheme aims to create a more level playing field, enabling both large-scale and smaller manufacturers to participate actively and contribute to the sector’s growth. By expanding to include apparel and home textiles, PLI 2.0 seeks to boost the entire value chain of the textile industry. It will incentivize manufacturers to explore new product lines and tap into emerging markets, thus increasing India’s competitiveness in the global textile trade. While the specifics of the eligibility criteria and turnover requirements under PLI 2.0 are yet to be officially released, a draft proposal indicated some potential features. Investment thresholds could range from INR 15 million to INR 45 million, making it more accessible for SMEs to participate. To qualify for incentives, selected firms would need to achieve a minimum turnover, equivalent to twice their investment, in the first year. Subsequent
  • 20. AUGUST 2023 18 www.textilevaluechain.in Cover Story years are expected to have additional growth targets, encouraging sustained performance and expansion. The proposed criteria might also include the requirement of a minimum number of stitching and sewing machines, among other benchmarks, to be eligible for incentives. These measures aim to promote increased production capacity, employment generation, and value addition in the textile industry. Expert Opinions and Recommendations Mr Gurudas Aras, a prominent Strategic Advisor and Independent Director for leading companies, shared his insights on PLI 2.0 and its potential impact on the textile industry. Mr Aras expressed optimism about the upcoming second round of the PLI Scheme, emphasizing its focus on small and medium-sized businesses (SMEs). According to him, the lower investment thresholds proposed for PLI 2.0 would create an enabling environment for SMEs to actively participate in the scheme. This, in turn, is expected to foster greater innovation, diversity, and competitiveness in the textile industry. He highlighted that PLI 2.0’s expansion to include apparel and home textiles signifies a well-rounded approach to boost the entire value chain. By encouraging manufacturers to venture into these downstream products, India’s textile industry can diversify its offerings and capitalize on new market opportunities, both domestically and internationally. Mr. Aras also emphasized the need for PLI 2.0 to focus on job creation. He believed that the scheme’s success lies in striking a fine balance between incentivizing investments and generating employment. By aligning incentives with employment generation targets, the government can ensure that PLI 2.0 becomes a driver for inclusive growth in the textile sector. Textile Value Chain also reached out to some of the companies who got approval for the PLI scheme, one such company RSWM’s Chief Financial Officer, Mr Avinash Bhargava said, “Initially we were planning to invest but the scheme was not clear, afterwards we fully understood the scheme and we dropped the idea for investment in PLI 1 scheme.” Mr. Rajeev Tulshyan, Chairman, of Kennington Group said, “PLI is a great initiative by the government, we got approval for the 100 Cr scheme within two weeks without any problem”. Talking about the project investment he said, “We are investing in integrated spinning plus knitting machine and we have acquired land and machines are already there. Machine installation is close to the end and production will begin from August. For PLI we are coming with MJS and knitting.” Government’s Response and Way Forward The government has shown responsiveness to the concerns and feedback raised by stakeholders regarding the PLI Scheme for Textiles. Recognizing the limited scope of the initial phase, the government is actively working on PLI 2.0 to address some of the key challenges and make the scheme more comprehensive and inclusive. By expanding the scope to include downstream products like apparel and home textiles, PLI 2.0 aims to cater to a wider range of market segments and foster the growth of small and medium-sized businesses. While it is still early days in the scheme’s implementation, officials and policymakers are closely monitoring its progress and impact. An Empowered Committee has been constituted to oversee the implementation and fund disbursement under each sector of the scheme. The government recognizes the significance of a transparent evaluation process and aims to address information ambiguity to ensure the scheme’s smooth functioning. While the PLI Scheme is not intended to be democratic, the government is open to constructive feedback and suggestions from industry associations and players. This approach enables continuous improvement and ensures that the scheme evolves in line with the industry’s needs and demands. Looking ahead, the government’s future plans for the textile industry revolve around fostering growth and enhancing competitiveness. PLI 2.0 is a pivotal component of these plans, aimed at providing a level playing field for both large-scale and small-scale industries.
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  • 24. AUGUST 2023 22 www.textilevaluechain.in Corporate Speaks Mr. Hitesh Wadher, VP, Head of Marketing, Neochem: “We are 44 years old company, we started way back in 1979 and as of today, we have developed a lot of products we have expanded our facilities. We have around 3000 metric tons of manufacturing in Ahmedabad, India. We are a leading specialty chemicals company from India. And ready to cater to the world. If we look at global presence, right now we are almost all over the world, south Asia, Australia, Canada, and Latin America. At ITMA we have launched our new series of Ester Quats which is focused on plant derivatives and we have two range of products which are based on palm and as well as on soya. Which gives excellent effects on fabrics, especially in terms of softness. We have another range of products also from pretreatment, dyeing, printing, finishing, and specialty chemicals auxiliary for denim and removal of lint from fabric. We have a dedicated team of 20 professionals from the textile industry so we can give the expert know how the ways in which we can cater to the industry.” Mr. Hemang Shanghavi, Director, Laxmi Looms: “Laxmi Looms has a long history of being in business since 1988. We started with the selling of weaving accessories, then we started developing dobby, power looms, and rapier looms. Today we have come to ITMA with our high-speed rapier looms LHR 450, the reason behind the development of the machine is due to the requirement of the weavers. They want to upgrade their weaving power looms with this kind of technology which is easy and can be used for flexible production, different kinds of fabrics, and quality fabrics. This is the reason we took part in ITMA. We must say that it has provided us with a very good platform, not only it is an opportunity for sales, but this machine it is given us the opportunity to look into the foray of textile technical products.” Meet the Indian Pavilion at ITMA Milan 2023 Textile Value Chain talked with the Indian companies at ITMA
  • 25. www.textilevaluechain.in 23 AUGUST 2023 Mr. Jagan Mohan Balaji, VP, LRT: “In ITMA we are showcasing one of our group companies, LEED (Laxmi Energy and Environment Designs) which is focused on environmental solutions. We offer everything related to water and wastewater and solid waste management. In wastewater, we have an end-to-end solution with our ETP, STP, ZLD, and RO plants. For Solid waste management, we do biogas plants and we also have an organic waste converter, which converts food waste to compost. And if you want to generate electricity we can also do that, provided the capacity of food waste is more. In LRT we have new tools, we have a new traveler insertion tool for spindle monitoring machines, which we have shown first time in ITMA. Apart from that we also have cleaning guns, EC 3 and FR 3 models. In ring Travelers, we have constantly evolution so we have improvements in our ruby finish, our sapphire plus, and the express plus which will have more improvements in the coming months.” Mr. Darshan Bachkaniwala, Director, Himson Engineering Pvt. LTD. “We are based in Surat, and here we are displaying our DTY machines and ATY machines we have been in the industry for 15 years and we want to show our presence here in ITMA This ITME we have launched a combination machine that will offer a variety of production options for the customers it is a combination machine of ATY and DTY. The second machine we are offering is the upgraded DTY machine, which will give customers a good reduction in terms of operation cost, maintenance, improvement in the quality of yarn produced, and also power cost saving. The machine will suit the requirements for future growth. “
  • 26. AUGUST 2023 24 www.textilevaluechain.in Corporate Speaks Can you start by telling us a bit about ERCA and its focus on the chemical industry? ERCA is one of the oldest Italian chemical companies, and we are fully dedicated to producing chemical specialties. We operate six plants across three micro-regions, which are Latin America, Europe, and Asia. Can you elaborate on one of your latest innovations, Revecol? Revecol is an exceptional example of our commitment to sustainability. It’s a new generation of chemical auxiliaries that is entirely based on recycled materials, specifically exhausted cooking oil. We are proud to have received various certifications, such as the Global Recycled Standard (GRS) Certificate of Compliance, RCS, listing in the gateway of ZDHC, bluesign® approval, GOTS approval, and Product CarbonFootprint(PCF).Infact,inNovember2022, REVECOL® even won the RESPONSIBLE CARE® award by Federchimica, the Italian federation of the chemical industry. Moreover, it has been included in the BAT (Best Available Techniques) by the European Community. Can you explain how this new production portfolio contributes to circularity and sustainability? Our focus with Revecol and other sustainable innovationsistomovetowardsrealcircularityand sustainability. Revecol’s use of recycled materials reduces waste and minimizes the impact on the environment. By utilizing exhausted cooking oil, we are effectively repurposing a material that would otherwise be discarded. This aligns with our vision to promote true circularity in the chemical industry. You mentioned that leading companies like Patagonia® and YKK have partnered with ERCA to deploy Revecol. Can you tell us more about this collaboration? We are delighted to have leading brands like Patagonia® and YKK on board with us in this initiative. Together, we have integrated Revecol into their manufacturing processes, allowing them to produce products that convey the message of sustainability to the end consumer. The collaboration shows that these companies share our vision of a greener and more sustainable future and are actively taking steps to make a positive impact. How do you measure the impact of innovations like Revecol on the environment? Measuring the impact of sustainable products is crucial. The success of innovations like Revecol is determined by how widely they are embraced by the market and how much they contribute to positive environmental change. We continuously monitor the adoption of Revecol and other sustainable solutions to gauge their ultimate impact on the environment. What are your plans to share Revecol and similar advancements with the wider market and end consumers? We believe that now is the perfect time to share Revecol and other sustainable innovations on a larger scale. Strategic partnerships within the industry are essential for driving widespread adoption. We aim to collaborate with more companies, both within and beyond the chemical industry, to expand the reach of sustainable products like Revecol to as many end consumers as possible. Through these partnerships and shared advancements, we can accelerate the positive impact on the environment. ERCA’s Revecol: Pioneering Sustainable Innovations in the Chemical Industry Textile Value Chain talks with Mr. Fabio Locatelli, Head of BU Textile Specialties, ERCA at ITMA 2023
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  • 30. AUGUST 2023 28 www.textilevaluechain.in ITMA Review s a certified recycling company, SOEX operates the world‘s first shoe recycling plant which is still unrivalled in the industry. With the help of this plant, valuable resources such as rubber, le- ather and metal can be saved and shoes can be prepared for reuse. In this way, the SOEX Group and Mercedes-Benz AG will jointly save 25,000 pairs of safety shoes from incineration every year. Since May, Mereceds-Benz has therefore been urging its employees in Sindelfingen: „Give your discarded safety shoes the chance now to escape incineration and be recycled as materials for new products – make the right throw!“ 22 billion pairs of shoes are produced worldwide eve- ry year. Calculations show that the global footwear in- dustry produces as much CO2 annually as the whole of Germany. This is also since a lot of resources are used to produce shoes, which are not returned to the cycle after use, but are wasted: The majority of shoes are disposed of in residual waste after wearing and end up in incineration; not even five percent are collected and recycled. Before SOEX put the world‘s first shoe recyc- ling plant into operation at its factory in Wolfen, recyc- ling shoes was even considered impossible worldwide. This is because usually more than 40 materials are so firmly glued together in shoes that they can hardly be separated. But the SOEX Group made sure that leather and rubber no longer ended up in the rubbish in masses and, to- gether with its English partner In-Cycle and the French company Eco TLC, developed the appropriate plant. To- gether they revolutionised shoe recycling. In the plant, zip scraps, metal parts, leather, rubber and fabric scraps are carefully separated from each other and can then be reused as raw mate- rial for the manufacture of other products. Now the car manufacturer Mercedes-Benz AG is also benefiting from the industry breakthrough in shoe recycling. The advantage of recycling safety shoes is alsothatasafetyshoeconsistsofonlyfourcomponents and the effort required to separate them is therefore very low. SOEX and Mercedes-Benz AG have thus found a simple but sustainable solution to dispose of work shoes sensibly and give them a second life. The result: a valuable contribution to the reduction of leather and rubber waste and the relief of the environment by recovering new resources from old ones. With their joint pilot project, SOEX and Mercedes-Benz AG are setting an example that could be followed by other Mercedes-Benz plants and that sets an indicator for the sustainable recycling of safety footwear beyond the automotive industry. Until now, Mercedes-Benz had only one solution for discarded safety shoes: the incineration plant. Up to now, around 25 tonnes of shoes have been destroyed every year at one of the automotive company‘s plants. The SOEX Group now wants to change this and will recycle the worn shoes for Mercedes-Benz AG. A pilot project between the SOEX Group and Mercedes-Benz AG started in May. The discarded safety shoes will be collected in a total of six containers on the Mercedes-Benz factory in Sindelfingen and then recycled at the SOEX plant in Wolfen. SOEX and Mercedes-Benz AG save tonnes of work shoes from disposal A
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  • 34. AUGUST 2023 32 www.textilevaluechain.in ITMA Review ecnorama is the leader in dyeing laboratory automation thanks to its patented DosDye® systems that allows to obtain the exact recipe (RIGHT FIRST TIME) to be replicated in bulk machines that drastically reduce corrections in production and re-dyeing with significant time savings and increased productivity. For more than 35 years, the company has been developing high-tech products with a strong innovative connotation: it acknowledges and analyses market needs and develops products to meet the highest market expectations. Tecnorama has seen steady growth over the years because its proposed values have always been appreciated by customers who recognize its cutting-edge technology, innovative results,attentiontotheenvironment,customercarewith tailor-made solutions, and pre- and after-sales support. The leadership position is also corroborated by being considered as a benchmark by the market so that the machines developed and built in Tecnorama are often emulated by companies that cannot count on the same expertise and are therefore unable to offer equally reliable products of comparable quality. Being competitive for dyehouses means adopting strategies and processes that improve production efficiency, that’s the plus of the original DosDye® systems: cutting lab costs, avoiding errors, optimizing reliability and reproducibility to improve production. The company pursues its goals with continuous and significant investment in RD and by developing in-house departments capable of responding to demands for product innovation and commercial follow-up. It’s been a while since the founders have, with foresight, adopted a strategy to continue growing maintaining market leadership. In this spirit, Mario Scatizzi and Romana Barni have set up a management team capable of continuing to run the company with the same energy they always expressed. ITMA 2023 was an opportunity to confirm Alessandro Giugni as CEO and the entire management team formed by the professional figures who have contributed to the company’s success for many years. The new products that Tecnorama exhibited at the fair also made their mark at this ITMA. Perfectly integrated into the DosDye® systems for the laboratory, the high-performance Dosorama MASTER and the Dyrama 4R/1000 for dyeing yarns with a capacity of 1kg were the major innovations physically present in the booth. There was also great resonance for the DosDye® 6000 Just in Time system for dyeing small batches, which has already been chosen by prestigious internationally recognized companies. The company pursues its goals with continuous and significant investment in RD and by developing in-house departments capable of responding to demands for product innovation and commercial follow-up. T Tecnorama: ITMA 23 confirms the leadership
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  • 36. AUGUST 2023 34 www.textilevaluechain.in ITMA Review iera Milano was from June 8 - 14 2023 home to ITMA, the world’s largest international textile and garment technology exhibition. SPGPrints took a different approach to the show by focusing on the customers’ needs and sustainability. By showcasing its reliable, innovative, and sustainable solutions SPGPrints looks back at a very successful ITMA 2023. Sustainability put into practice Participating in ITMA, SPGPrints found it very important to do so sustainably, with the ambition to have a small environmental footprint and a 100% renewable booth. Not only talk the talk but also walk the walk. This led to a booth that consisted of recyclable and reusable materials, for instance, a chip wood floor and a large printed curtain as a booth divider. In order to keep the footprint low and not create excess waste, no running machines were present. This was highlighted by placing the machines tilted, which also created a spectacular look. High-quality customer conversations The different booth approach also meant that SPGPrints could better address customer-specific questions and challenges since the focus was not on machines but on the complete know-how and portfolio SPGPrints has to offer. This was also highlighted during the several TECHTalks, in which industry relevant topics like sustainable printing, when rotary/when digital, and others were presented multiple times per day. SPGPrints even looked into the future with a presentation about Future Fabric, in which the combination of textile printing and printed electronics was explained and made practically applicable. Continuous innovation As the inventor of rotary screen technology and initiator of digital textile printing, SPGPrints showed innovations in both rotary screen and digital printing. For rotary screen printing the TEAK, 2.45 meters including universal repeat, was showcased and the Eucalyptus, 3.25 meters wide printer was announced. Also, the new laser engraver Maple and the textile screens portfolio were put in the spotlight, emphasizing the paste-savings which add up to 22%! For digital printing, innovation was shown by the complete portfolio of 6 printer models SPGPrints has to offer. The good-better-best approach leads to a solution for every situation, depending on the customer’s needs, especially in combination with the SPGPrints inks, like the pigments with a binder in the ink. And the introduction of Archer+ Pro shows that also on software SPGPrints keeps innovating. Archer+ Pro automatically corrects print head deviations and alignments, maximizing print quality and productivity. Customers choose SPGPrints The focus on customers’ questions and challenges, the new approach, and the complete portfolio has also led to commercial success, even more than expected. SPGPrints signed contracts with customers from all over the world for digital machines, rotary machines, engraving equipment, and consumable contracts which confirms that SPGPrints really is, a total solution provider. SPGPrints demonstrates innovation and sustainability F
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  • 40. AUGUST 2023 38 www.textilevaluechain.in ITMA Review hedesireforinnovationisexpressedintheability and courage to change to be more efficient, more present, including communication, and in the flexibility and ability to respond to market needs. Driven by the desire for the best performance, that is not only technical, the company complied to the new business languages, guaranteeing competence and speed in answering to the many requests of customers and especially to those customers who look to LAIP for a personalized response to their needs for industrial dyeing. LAIP has thus supplied dyeing machines of entire compartmentsinfactoriesspeciallymadebycustomers to insert LAIP products, this is a sign of the established trust that the market places in the company and in its machines. The difference can be seen in the passion that everyone puts into their work, from the engineers to the assemblers, everyone committed to taking care of even the smallest detail, seeking solutions closest to the customer’s needs and innovation and to the quality of all the elements of the machines. A constant success that saw the company as a protagonist at the recent ITMA: great affirmation of esteem from customers who came to visit the booth at the fair and excellent feedback from a great number of new customers who appreciated the work and production capabilities. LAIP presented new and higher performing machines in addition to its great classics: 198 HT, the highly demanded machine for tow – packages and fibre dyeing, it allows the same liquor ratio to be maintained even with partial loads! BID, (Bobbins Injection Dyeing) ensures absolute repeatability,productivityandreliabilityformulticolour printing and dyeing of yarn in bobbins. Nautilus, the cutting-edge machine. Conceived with a double belt, it is suitable for dyeing delicate fabrics keeping the low liquor ratio constant by the maximum fabric load up to 40 %. The low water consumption means low electrical consumption and energy saving. 250 HT Jet, the easy machine that never stops to get perfectly dyed fabrics with no abrasions nor creases. Beam, the ideal machine to dye high end silk and technical fabrics, tubular and warp knit for sportwear enabling the optimisation of production times and superlative technical performance. One constant is to be able to make machines that can prove effective in all-around energy savings, not an easy task in dyeing sector, and LAIP, as always, meets the challenge and the results are manifest. Less water consumption, more efficient components, more automation and indeed, significant energy savings. LAIP: the present is an expression of a future project This is one of the keys to comprehend LAIP’s productive strength, a desire for constant renewal, acceptance of new market challenges, new technologies, and the ability to have a constant dialogue with customers, not only before and during the sale, also aftersale. T
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  • 44. AUGUST 2023 42 www.textilevaluechain.in ITMA Review n international audience gathered at the Groz-Beckert booth: guests came from 84 different countries. The majority of visitors came from Italy with just under 15 percent, followed by Germany with 14 percent, Turkey with 11 percent, India with 9 percent and the USA with 3 percent. For the first time, HR specialists were on hand at the Groz-Beckert booth to look after the student groups, offering the young people comprehensive insights together with experts from the Technology and Development Center (TEZ). Groz-Beckert presented numerous innovations from its six product divisions Knitting, Weaving, Felting, Tufting, Carding and Sewing at the ITMA. One focus of the innovations was on the topics of efficiency, process stability and sustainability. While the topic of sustainability was reflected in the products on the one hand, a separate area in the Groz-Beckert Gallery was dedicated to the topic on the other. Here it was shown what contribution Groz-Beckert is making to making its own productions and its sites sustainable. The Gallery also offered insights into general topics relating to Groz-Beckert in form of graphics, animations and videos. Small explanatory texts provided additional backgroundinformation.TheGalleryenabledvisitorsto get to know the company from a different perspective. A special magnet of the booth was the Cooperation Corner of the Knitting product area. Here, two new knitting systems and a new compound needle for circular knitting machines were presented, which were developed together with machine manufacturers. In addition, live presentations were held to highlight the successful cooperations in greater detail. The flat knitting, legwear and warp knitting product groups also had innovations in store: from special application needles (SANTM ) and long-life dur™ needles to new modules and system parts. The Weaving division impressed trade show visitors with its innovative technical weaving reeds. The new product enables the supply in the production of fabrics of high fineness, e.g. for filtration (both wire and plastic fabrics). The division also recorded a special trade show success: the demonstration model of the WarpMasterPlus was sold directly in Milan to a customer in Turkey. The Felting (Nonwovens) product area presented no less than two world firsts at the fair: a needle with a new notch design and the Groz-Beckert felting needle module for the innovative MicroPunch intensive needling technology (Dilo). Both products met with very great visitor interest. The Tufting product area presented its proven Gauge Part System for the production of tufted floor coverings. At the booth, customers were able to see for themselves that the components in the Gauge Part System from Groz-Beckert are perfectly coordinated and guarantee smooth interaction. Various new and further developments were also on show in the Carding product area. For the nonwovens industry, the division presented, among other things, the world’s finest interlinked card clothing for reduced crash risk. For the spinning industry, the area exhibited a new maintenance-free reel clothing with increased service life and lower maintenance costs. The Sewing product area also enjoyed a high number of specific visitors – even though ITMA does not focus on the sewing industry. Interest in the division’s various special application needles (SANTM ) was correspond- ingly high. Likewise, the patented quality management system INH (Ideal Needle Handling) received a lot of attention. The appearance of the Technology and Development Center (TEZ) completed the Groz-Beckert booth. The TEZ experts presented to interested visitors the numerous opportunities available to customers and partners at the TEZ. In cooperation with external partners, the TEZ can be used as an optimization, development or business partner – depending on requirements and customer wishes. Groz-Beckert welcomes over 7,000 visitor at ITMA booth A A T Y - 9 8 7 L P o l y e s t e r C h i G T X h a s m a d e p r o d u c t s . I t i s c
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  • 46. AUGUST 2023 44 www.textilevaluechain.in ITMA Review enninger aims to become the complete system supplier with leading technology for continuous wet processing, and discontinuous dyeing and remaintheleaderforsolutionsforthetirecordindustry. We take seriously our responsibility toward sustainable textile production and have always stood for textile finishing plants that are particularly resource efficient. We supply overall solutions for all important textile wet-finishing processes, and we specialize in the continuous open-width treatment of woven and knitted fabrics, technical textiles as well as jet dyeing machines, and jiggers, along with the complete and integrated dye house supply systems such as liquid dispensing, salt, and soda ash distributing systems as well as dyestuff distribution systems. Our portfolio also includes caustic soda recovery plants and waste-water heat recovery systems. Thanks to our comprehensive process know-how and deep engineering understanding we offer high-quality installations with excellent customer service. With our solutions, producers will make a huge contribution to Decarbonizing Textiles. At the ITMA Milano our team of experts and textile technologists will help customers to navigate through the vast world of textile wet processing. “Look and feel” our all-new singeing machine SingeRay in 21st-century design. The SingeRay will be the key factor to upgrading your fabric instantly for the perfect finish and dye. All this reduces your gas bill, due to its unique features. Ladies love ropes of pearls. And we have one which we would love to show you with enthusiasm and much detail. The FabricMaster, the new Soft Flow Dyeing machine of Benninger, stands for brilliantly better consumption values and impresses with its high-quality fabric appearance and elegant touch. True to the company motto: “You can feel, it’s Benninger.” We take care that your fabric will be pearls. And if you decide to want to dye 100% salt-free, the team will fascinate you with the outstanding Cold-Pad-Batch (CPB) Dyeing station. The heart is of course the 2 Kusters S-rolls, guaranteeing 100% level dyeing results with no listing nor tailing at less than 1l/ Kg water consumption. Road to Net Zero with the leader in continuous wet processing and jet dyeing technology B
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  • 50. AUGUST 2023 48 www.textilevaluechain.in ITMA Review hese are the main results of the 45th annual International Textile Machinery Shipment Statistics (ITMSS) just released by the International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF). The report covers six segments of textile machinery, namely spinning, draw-texturing, weaving, large circular knitting, flat knitting, and finishing. A summary of the findings for each category is presented below. The 2022 survey has been compiled in cooperation with more than 200 textile machinery manufacturers representing a comprehensive measure of world production. Spinning Machinery The total number of shipped short-staple spindles increased by 2,1 million units in 2022toalevelof9.76million.Mostofthe new shipments went to Asia Oceania (86%) where deliveries increased by +21% compared to 2021. Europe (incl. Türkiye) and America, North, rank 2nd and 3rd with respect to new deliveries. While levels remained relatively small in Africa, the region ranked 4th and experienced the strongest surge in year-on-year shipments with a +290%-increase (primarily going to Egypt). The six largest investors in the short-staple segment were China, India, Bangladesh, Pakistan, Türkiye, and Uzbekistan. 1,28 million open-end rotors were shipped worldwide in 2022. This represents 587 thousand additional units compared to 2021. 87% of global shipments went to Asia Oceania where deliveries increased by +91% to 1,1 million rotors. China, India, and Turkey were the world’s 3 largest investors in rotors and saw investments surging by +67%, +261% and +91%, respectively. Deliveries of rotors rose in all major destination countries except for Vietnam and Brazil, the 7th and 8th largest destinations in 2022, where shipment of rotors decreased by -34% and -30% compared to 2021 (totalling around 15 thousand units in each case). Shipments of new textile machinery decreased in most segments in 2022, except in spinning In 2022, global shipments of new short-staple spindles, open-end rotors, and long-staple spindles rose by +27%, +85%, and +195%, respectively (year-on- year). Deliveries of draw-texturing spindles decreased by -13% and the number of shipped shuttle-less looms dropped by -23%. Shipments of large circular knitting machines declined by -27% and shipped flat knitting machines registered a 24%-reduction. The sum of all deliveries in the finishing segment decreased by -28% on average. T
  • 51. www.textilevaluechain.in 49 AUGUST 2023 Global shipments of long-staple (wool) spindles increased from 31,6 thousand in 2021 to 93’000 in 2022 (+195%). This effect was mainly driven by a rise in deliveries to Asia Oceania with a +435%-increase in investment. 21% of total deliveries were shipped to China, 20% to Uzbekistan, and 15% to Iran. Texturing Machinery Global shipments of single heater draw-texturing spindles (mainly used for polyamide filaments) decreased by -14% from nearly 75,1 thousand units in 2021 to 64,4 thousand units in 2022. With a share of 95%, Asia Oceania remained the strongest destination for single heater draw-texturing spindles in 2022. China, Türkiye, and Japan were the 3 main investors in this segment with a share of 84%, 3,5%, and 2,3% of global deliveries, respectively. Inthecategoryofdoubleheaterdraw-texturingspindles (mainly used for polyester filaments), global shipments decreased by -13% to a level of 756 thousand spindles. Asia’s share of worldwide shipments remained at 95% and China continued to be the world’s largest investor, accounting for 86% of global shipments. Weaving Machinery In 2022, global shipments of shuttle-less looms decreased by -23% to 114 thousand units. Deliveries in the categories “air-jet” and “water-jet” dropped by -13% and -38,4% to 39,3 and 46,6 thousand looms, respectively. The number of “rapier and projectile” looms rose by +5.3% to 28,3 thousand units. The main destination for shuttle-less looms in 2022 was Asia Oceania with 93% of worldwide deliveries. 95%, 85%, and 97% of global air-jet, rapier/projectile, and water-jet looms were shipped to that region, respectively. The main investor for air-jet and water-jet looms was China. The main investor for rapier-and-pro- jectile looms was India with 11.4 thousand units (a 70%-increase compared to 2021). Circular Flat Knitting Machinery Global shipments of large circular knitting machines declined by -27% to 28’651 units in 2022. The region Asia Oceania was the world’s leading investor in this category with 77% of global shipments. China was the favoured destination with 45% of all deliveries (i.e., 9’930 units) despite a decrease of -55% compared to 2021. India and Bangladesh ranked second and third destinations with 3’105 and 2’644 units, respectively. In 2022, the number of shipped electronic flat knitting machines decreased by -24% to 72,6 thousand machines. Asia Oceania was the main destination for such machines with a share of 83% of world shipments. China remained the world’s largest investor with a 63%-share of total shipments despite a -41%-decrease in investment. Shipments to the country dropped from 67,7 thousand units in 2021 to 39.6 thousand units in 2022. Finishing Machinery In the “fabrics continuous” segment, the number of shipped stenters decreased by -35% from 2’750 units in 2021 to 1’780 units in 2022. This number includes an estimate for the total number of stenters shipped by companies which have not participated to the ITMF survey to better grasp the global market size for finishing machinery. Participating companies reported a decrease in all other machine categories covered in the report (between -2,5% for “Relax Dryers / Tumblers” and -81% for “Bleaching – Line”), with exception of “Singeing Line” which grew from 4 to 22 units. In the “fabrics discontinuous” segment, the number of shipped “jigger dyeing / beam dyeing” and “air jet dyeing” declined by -35% and -45% to 707 units and 675 units, respectively. In 2022, deliveries in the categories “overflow dyeing” increased by +4% to 1’714 units. China remained the world’s largest investor with a 63%-share of total shipments despite a -41%-decrease in investment. Shipments to the country dropped from 67,7 thousand units in 2021 to 39.6 thousand units in 2022.
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  • 55. www.textilevaluechain.in 53 AUGUST 2023 he Integrated Draw Frame (IDF) has developed remarkably in recent years. Although there were some doubts when the IDF first hit the market twenty years ago, it has now demonstrated its positive impact on short spinning processes. “As a result, the IDF is a key part of our product range today. Two generations of this machine have already delivered valuable performance improvements for our spinning customers worldwide. And our innovators have now successfully created the third generation: The new integrated draw frame IDF 3”, says Jörg Schmitz, Senior Expert RD Spinning Preparation. Proven to deliver excellent quality Trützschler’s technical experts decided it was time to give the IDF a turbo boost by adding components and features from other areas of our draw frame portfolio, including our popular autoleveller draw frame TD 10. First, the team adapted the precise, robust measuring devices DISC LEVELLER and DISC MONITOR to fit the specifications of card and IDF 3. The resulting IDF DL and IDF DM interact perfectly with the existing 1-zone drafting system, which results in more homogeneous slivers and higher yarn quality. Switching to the IDF DL and IDF DM system instead of the previous measuring funnel adds more benefits than advanced detection of sliver deviations. The new system also works entirely without compressed air, which reduces operating costs. Inaddition,theIDF3make-overincludesa complete redesign of the drafting zone in line with all Trützschler drafting systems. This further stabilizes the drafting process and significantly improves the yarn imperfection total IPI for recycled fibers and raw cotton, while also blending with synthetics. Yarn strength and elongation are also improved. Can changer becomes a game changer Improving the IDF is only possible if innovators also look at the card and can changer, because there is huge potential if the interaction between the three elements are optimally balanced. This is particularly true for the DIRECT SPINNING process, with its small can sizes. Each time a full can is replaced by an empty IDF 3: The shortest path to perfect quality Usually, it’s not possible to get everything you want. But with the new integrated draw frame IDF 3, you really can. It offers a range of innovative features that give customers even better quality, efficiency and handling – as well as accelerated can change times and improved productivity. T ITMA Review
  • 56. AUGUST 2023 54 www.textilevaluechain.in ITMA Review can, the delivery speed of the card and IDF needs to be drastically reduced – and this slows down the production process. Every second that can be saved from this can change process adds to the overall productivity. In this context, our teams have optimized the can changer to save our customer’s valuable time. The delivery speed of the IDF 3 stays at the high level of 300 m/min during can changes, which increases efficiency by 3 %. Easy operation, great performance and high quality It’s essential that machines are easy to operate and offer good accessibility in order to enable accurate machine settings and effective maintenance. For this reason, the IDF 3 is designed to open directly towards the operator. This makes it easy to reach all of the adjustment points within the working area. Thanks to our QUICK START autopiecing function, operators do not need to open the drafting unit. Instead, they simply insert the sliver end into the IDF DL, which saves up to 60 seconds during each piecing event. Depending on the number of piecing processes performed, this saved time quickly adds up to a significant increase in productivity. Trützschler’s technicians have also improved the pressure adjustment on the IDF 3 by adding an easy-to-reach digital pressure manometer. This makes it possible to precisely set the pressure and directly monitor limits on the drafting system via the display screen. The IDF 3 can also be configured with the exclusive Trützschler features T-LED, SMART TOUCH and RFID to further enhance handling. Our third generation of IDF proves that you really can have it all. Customers benefit from better quality, higher efficiency and easier handling. Two examples of improvements for Ne 10 and Ne 30 with different material mix. Trützschler’s technicians have also improved the pressure adjustment on the IDF 3 by adding an easy-to-reach digital pressure manometer.
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  • 58. AUGUST 2023 56 www.textilevaluechain.in ITMA Review or years, spinners have relied on LMW machines to harness the advantages of spinning recycled fibers from various raw materials such as PET bottles and fabric cut waste. LMW’s spinning line enables the production of yarn from recycled materials up to a count of 40 Ne, with a blend ratio of 80% pre and post-consumer waste material and 20% virgin cotton The Gentle Blowroom line from LMW ensures efficient opening and cleaning, effective microdust extraction, optimal blending of fibers, and continuous feed to the Card. The Card LC363 facilitates higher production rates, consistent quality, reduced lint loss, lower power consumption, and high realization. Higher number LMW, The Trendsetter in Recycled Fibre Processing The wide-ranging implications of the linear “make and discard” model have had a significant impact on climate change and environmental degradation. Less than 1% of garments are currently being recycled, resulting in over 70% of the world’s clothing ending up in landfills. In light of this, regenerated fibers play a crucial role in promoting the circular economy and closing the loop. Recycling textiles offers numerous benefits, including a 70% reduction in energy consumption, 75% decrease in CO2 emissions, and an 86% decrease in water usage compared to using virgin fabrics. F
  • 59. www.textilevaluechain.in 57 AUGUST 2023 of working flats and 3 lickerin arrangement ensures effective opening of fibre clusters or unopened cloth. Combing segment below the lickerin arrangement along with Suction system arrangement and gravity falling of waste helps to remove any cloth bits / foreign matters effectively without loosing good fibres. The precise Autolevelling Draw Frame LDF3 E supports increased production with superior quality through features such as Duo Digital Auto Levelling, a Change Gearless drive system, and Auto piecing. Auto Leveller Draw Frame LDF3 Series LMW Smart series machines are highly suitable for mechanical recycling and have gained popularity with over 150 recycling installations worldwide. Over 500 cards from LMW are currently operating successfully in various recycling clusters contributing to a total production volume of 32.67 lakh tons per year, complemented by LMW Gentle Blowroom machinery. The LMW Smart Ring Frame, combined with the most suitable preparatory machines for Ring spinning and Open End applications, effectively produces recycled yarn. Fostering Eco-sensitive Success with benchmarking standards Reysan Iplik, İstanbul, Türkiye, with its fixed and unchanging commitment towards environment first approach is successfully achieving counts up to 20s Ne for a blend ratio of 90% Regenerated Fibre and 10% Polyester on LMW preparatory machines. Camci Tekstil, Uşak, Türkiye, leading by example with its environment sensitive approach is spinning counts up to 20s Ne for a blend ratio of 70% Regenerated Fibre and 30% Polyester on LMW preparatory machines. Vardhman ReNova, the fiber recycling plant of Vardhman Group, India, boasts a production capacity of 6 TPD and is designed to recycle Yarn Hard Waste/ Fabric Clippings into usable fiber. Equipped with LMW Smart machines, the Vardhman Group mills have successfully facilitated the spinning of recycled yarns with counts like 24s Ne and 30s Ne, using a blend ratio of 30% recycled cotton, 40% recycled polyester, and 30% virgin cotton. To demonstrate the quality and applicability of the ring yarn spun from recycled material,LMWconductedapilotprojectmanufacturing T-shirts made from recycled yarn and presented them to the entire customer base during ITME 2022 at India and ITMA 2023 at Milan for widespread use. Kanchan India Limited, based in Rajasthan, India is dedicated to sustainable production and actively manufactures recycled yarns in response to the growing market demand. LMW machines are used at Kanchan India Limited to produce recycled yarns from recycled PET bottle fiber and fabric cut waste. LMW’s commitment to sustainability has led to a collaborationwithMaduraCoatsforthecommissioning of the A-Z pilot project “Coats Sustainability Hub” in Madurai. This Sustainability Hub will accelerate the transitiontorecycledandrenewablematerials,support customers and stakeholders in creating sustainability within the industry, drive sustainability innovation, enhance brand collaborations, and facilitate the rapid development and introduction of sustainable products to the market. The transformation of the textile value chain to align with the guiding principles of the circular economy is already underway, and as a pioneer in textile technology, LMW will play a crucial role in this transformation process. At LMW, Sustainability is a way of life ...
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  • 61. www.textilevaluechain.in 59 AUGUST 2023 “ITMA was also 2023 a great platform to present our products and services to a wide trade audience. The fair exceeded our expectations in all areas. Given the circumstan- ces, the economic slowdown and crises in the textile industry we were overwhelmed by the interest and feedback generated. The high frequency of visitors to our booth that continued until the very end gave us all the opportunities to intensify existing business relations, generate important deals and make valuable new contacts“ Managing Part- ner Robert Czajkowski said. The showcased 8-lock blockbuster I3P 196 premiering with the integrable Smartex inspection system, is only one example of Terrot’s ability to manufacture world’s best circular knitting machines and its dedication to constantly improve their outstanding customer value in terms of productivity, efficiency and flexibility. The demand for innovative technical solutions will continue to increase being additio- nally fueled by digitization. With the continuous development of value-added technolo- gies and customer-centric solutions we are best positioned to be successful in the mar- kets. Responding to our customers‘ needs and offering reliable, easy-to-use solutions is one of our USP’s and at the same time of highest customer relevance. „The market response at the ITMA confirms the high demand for Terrot machines as well as our technical solutions. This is an incredible source of motivation for our team and a constant incentive to deal with all the challenges ahead of us. I am convinced that with the strength of our dedicated staff, agents and partners, we will be able to meet any of the challenges arising. We are already looking forward to ITMA 2027 in Hannover „ Czajkowski adds. Many thanks to our fantastic team, our loyal agents and partners, and our valued custo- mers for making ITMA 2023 a great success for Terrot! ITMA HIGHLIGHTS: • The I3P 196 OW a highly flexible and productive, interlock and fine rib machine with open width frame that has been much demanded globally in the past years. The I3P 196 is a creates „8-lock“, interlock and modified structures like punto di roma, mila- no rib, piqué rodier and also racer mesh with maximum efficiency. Equipped with up to 4 needle tracks in cylinder cam and 2 needle tracks in dial cam the I3P 196 promises maximum flexibility and a wide range of pattern options. At ITMA it was combined with the latest technology of our partner Smartex. Their build-in CORE system gives the customer the power of latest hardware and software technology to control their fabric production, inspecting every inch of fabric using arti- Terrot Showed A Strong Line-Up at the ITMA 2023 With an impressive combination of new developments, enhanced blockbusters and ever-growing variety of leading applications the company presented at the fair a highly demanded range of solutions, in particular for mattress ticking, upholstery, sports and functional wear clients. ITMA Review
  • 62. AUGUST 2023 60 www.textilevaluechain.in ficial intelligence algorithms, which are constantly being upgraded. Smartex’s patented hardware set is comprised of an AI-powered graphic processing server, high resolution cameras with machine learning capabilities, and enhanced lighting for optimal grei-ge fabric inspection controlled by an intuitive industrial grade touchscreen interface. Smartex’ software provides the customer with 24/7 access to real-time production in- formation including automated roll maps, business intelligence data, and performance analysis from anywhere, using their preferred device (computer, tablet, smartphone). • The UCC 672-ME in 3-way technology in dial and cylinder is Terrot’s flagship in the production of highest quality mattress covers, upholstery and fashion with unlimi- ted pattern possibilities on both fabric sides. With 88 feeders at 38“ (available from 34“ to 42“), newly developed dial needle selection and reliable elastane plating, the model’s flexibility and extremely high productivity are the newest demonstration of Terrot’s reputation as world’s leading producer of most sophisticated electronic jacquard ma- chines. • The Interlock model I 1120 as one of Terrot’s newly designed circular knitting ma- chines with 34” and 136 feeders (30“ - 42“ on request) can be with many innovative and current demand reflecting features an attractive alternative to our blockbuster ever- green the I 2108. You can reach maximum efficiency and productivity with an industrial frame and fabric rolls up to 1,050 mm. The motorized fabric take-down with three rol- lers and the automatic winding-up device supports industrial production at its best. • The UCC 572-T is Terrot’s flagship in the production of functional sport and leisu- re textiles, offering great flexibility and a high production output. The machine features a wide variety of applications while producing single and double jersey structure area combinations in addition to hole patterns. This model makes designer’s dreams come true. • Terrot extends its product portfolio even further and launches the new JV-3.0, which stands for high production outputs in the field of single jersey fabrics.Thisveryproductiveknittingmachineiseasily capable of a speed factor of 1,280. In addition, other single structures like piqué can also be knitted with the JV-3.0. Despite its high efficiency the machine displays outstanding flexibility, long maintenance cycles and unseen operational convenience. • TheJSP5-4produceshigh-qualityplushwithuniform loop lengths and provides a variety of different applications for various market requirements like fashion, home and technical textiles. Terrot offers different highly productive single jersey knitting ma- chines for nearly every application and is very successful on the global market with its product portfolio. The machine features a wide variety of applications while producing single and double jersey structure area combinations in addition to hole patterns. This model makes designer’s dreams come true.
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  • 65. www.textilevaluechain.in 63 AUGUST 2023 t the core of Rimtex’s participation in ITMA 2023 was their commitment to propelling spinning technology forward and empowering spinning mills with transformative solutions. Recognising the evolving needs of the yarn manufacturing industry, Rimtex diligently manoeuvres its research development and steadfastly commits to spearheading the future of spinning. The buzz surrounding Rimtex’s advancements was palpable as spinners eagerly awaited the unveiling of their groundbreaking innovations at ITMA 2023. Rimtex Group unveiled two global launches that captivated attendees and further solidified their reputation as industry leading innovators. Ground-breaking technology launched globally at ITMA 2023 One of the highlights of Rimtex’s showcase was the introduction of Sumo Mini, a revolutionary spinning can be designed specifically for open end and airjet spinning. This compact and exquisitely designed Can boasts a remarkable upto 10% increase in sliver loading capacity, providing spinners with enhanced productivity and efficiency. The Sumo Mini’s cutting-edge features and unparalleled sliver management capabilities garnered immense appreciation from industry professionals, who recognized its potential to significantly impact yarn realization. In addition to the Sumo Mini, Rimtex Group proudly presented the Rimtex Group Redefines Spinning Innovations at ITMA 2023 with Transformative Technologies The highly anticipated ITMA 2023 event in Milan witnessed a remarkable display of innovation and excellence by Rimtex Group, a leading manufacturer of spinning cans, rings travellers, castors wheels and more. With a legacy built on quality and innovation, Rimtex showcased their latest international line-up, leaving industry stalwarts in awe and garnering appreciation from spinners worldwide. Under the captivating theme ‘Here to Transform’, Rimtex Group showcased their visionary spinning solutions. The Rimtex stand became a hub of excitement and engagement as visitors witnessed the unveiling of Rimtex’s transformative technologies. A ITMA Review
  • 66. AUGUST 2023 64 www.textilevaluechain.in ITMA Review prototype of their latest advancement in autonomous technology with Sliver Bot. This AI-enabled sliver transportation solution aims to revolutionise material movement within spinning mills, offering a seamless and efficient method for transporting large-sized sliver cans. The concept was demonstrated at the stand and the industry hailed Sliver Bot as a game-changer in the realm of spinning mill automation, acknowledging its potential to streamline processes and enhance overall productivity. The unveiling of these two global launches further reinforced Rimtex’s commitment to transformative solutions that address the evolving needs of the spinning industry. Spinners and industry experts alike commended Rimtex Group for their dedication to enhancing productivity, quality, and profitability for their customers. Customers appreciated Rimtex’s innovative approach amidst the growing trend of ineffective enhancements in sliver handling that fail to deliver tangible value. The Sumo Mini and Sliver Bot were acknowledged as prime examples of Rimtex’s ability to anticipate industry requirements and deliver cutting-edge technologies that make a tangible difference. On the other hand, Tango, the agile material movement vehicle, is rapidly gaining popularity among spinners for its seamless intra-facility transportation. Tango effortlessly adapts to diverse mill environments and can be operated by the existing workforce, offering unparalleled precision and speed to mill operations. WIZCAN gains patronage world-over What also garnered a lot of interest was the demonstration of Rimtex’s proprietary ‘Sliver Intelligence’ product W i z c a n (patented). ‘Sliver Intelligence’ has evolved from being a mere futuristic concept to an essential requirement for sustaining the quality and efficiency standards of the new-age spinning industry. International visitors who have seen the Wizcan display at the Rimtex booth are mighty impressed with the system, noting that Wizcan reimagines the role of a sliver management system and takes a giant leap forward into the realm of Industry 4.0. Rimtex is excited to offer Wizcan to the global spinning market, and spinning mills should be eager to embrace this technology to improve their operations. The X-Axis introduces the idea of Spinning Well-being The X-Axis is reshaping the spinning industry by offering a fresh perspective to the process of selecting spinning rings and travellers. Mills running with rings and travelers beyond their optimal life are sacrificing quality, productivity, and profitability, resulting in significant losses. The company showcased that focussing on achieving optimal results rather than just longevity helps the spinner to reduce the ‘hidden losses’ and gain a far more efficient and productive spinning process. The X-axis has elevated itself as the ultimate spinning solution provider in this regard. Furthermore, the company provides a combination of Xtensa Rings and Xgen Travelers to improve yarn consistency, leading to better economics, increased profitability, and enhanced competitiveness. With its precision engineering and proven performance, the X-Axis empowers spinners to stay ahead of the quality curve. Extensive discussions between spinners and experts from The X-axis research wing, confirmed the data-backed claims of the company, enhancing its position as a transformative force in the spinning rings travellers’ domain. The X-Axis offers free counselling
  • 67. www.textilevaluechain.in 65 AUGUST 2023 and a state-of-the-art lab to check the status of presently running rings and travelers, enabling spinners to transform their daily production into a profitable spinning mill. You can get in touch with their RESEARCH COUNSELLING CENTRE (RCC) and begin your mill’s journey of transformation. Kalpar Castors: Ushering Spinning mills to fluff-free operations Kalpar’s innovative castor wheels enable safe and efficient sliver movement in the textile industry. With 27 years of experience, they offer specialized designs for spinning cans and material handling equipment. Many OEMs and mills endorsed the performance of patent design Single Axle wheels and On-Toes, with dust-free features that ensure uninterrupted operations and minimise sliver breakage. ITMA 2023 a resounding success: Receives visitors from 70+ countries Rimtex’s presence at ITMA 2023 was a testament to their continuous drive for innovation. With decades of experienceinleadingtechnologicalshiftsinthespinning industry, Rimtex has earned the trust and admiration of spinners worldwide. Mr. Gaurav Parmar, Director of Rimtex Group, emphasised their commitment to the spinning industry’s development, stating that the industry looks up to Rimtex for solutions that set the course for the future. He further highlighted Rimtex’s passion, dedication, and innovative ideas that fuel their pioneering technologies. Rimtex Group continues to empower spinners worldwide, enabling them to embrace sustainable practices, enhance productivity, and achieve unparalleled quality in yarn production. ITMA 2023 has provided a platform for Rimtex Group to make their mark once again, leaving an indelible impression on the spinning industry and setting the stage for a future that is truly transformative. As spinners continue to adapt to the fast-paced world of AI-enabled technologies, Rimtex Group remains at the forefront of innovation, offering transformative solutions that elevate the spinning industry to new heights. In conclusion, Rimtex Group’s participation in ITMA 2023 proved to be a resounding success. Visitors from around 70+ countries, witnessed our display and expressed their keen interest in the wide innovation basket offered by Rimtex group. Their unveiling of Sumo Mini and Sliver Bot generated tremendous excitement and positive feedback from industry professionals, reaffirming Rimtex’s position as an as an industry leader and showcased their unwavering commitment to pushing the boundaries of what is possible in spinning technology. SUBSCRIPTION FORM Name Email Id Mobile Number Landline / Alternate Number Address Company Name Designation Payment Method Print 1 year 12 issues Rs. 800/- Digital Rs. 500/- Print 2 years 24 issues Rs. 1500/- Digital Rs. 1000/- TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN 504, Suchita Business Park, Pantnagar, Ghatkopar (East), Mumbai - 400075, Maharashtra, INDIA. website : www.textilevaluechain.in, email : sales@textilevaluechain.com, Call/ Whats App : +91 9167986305
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  • 70. AUGUST 2023 68 www.textilevaluechain.in CorporateView n the heartwarming ambiance of The Yarn Bazaar Roundtable Show, we welcomed a group of textile industry experts who brought with them a wealth of knowledge and experience. Gathered around the virtual roundtable, they shared their perspectives on the crucial role played by quality in our dynamic textile industry. The topic of the roundtable discussion was “Quality As Key To Success In The Indian Textile Industry”. To achieve growth and success, manufacturers must prioritize the needs and preferences of their customers and focus on delivering value through their products and services. By understanding and meeting customer demands, manufacturers can build strong and lasting relationships, which will ultimately lead to sustainable growth and competitiveness in the market. The shift from a traditional production-focused mindset to a customer-oriented one is essential for manufacturers to adapt to changing market dynamics, stay relevant, and thrive in today’s business landscape. Talking about the customer-centric approach , Mr. Sanjay Arora, Associate Director, Wazir Advisors quoted ““Manufacturing industry now has to think like the service industry. Unless and until they do not start to think like the service industry they can’t grow.” In the Indian textile industry, realizing the value of educated workforce can have a transformative impact. By providing comprehensive training to the workforce, companies can nurture a culture of quality at every level within the organization. Well-trained employees are better equipped to handle challenges, adapt to technological advancements, and maintain consistent production standards. This, in turn, enhances productivity and efficiency, leading to improved customer satisfaction and brand reputation. Quality: A Key to Success in the Indian Textile Industry: Excerpt from The Yarn Bazaar Roundtable By Mr. Pratik Gadia (Founder CEO, The Yarn Bazaar) I
  • 71. www.textilevaluechain.in 69 AUGUST 2023 Mr. Balkrishna Sharma, Joint President Business Head, Ginni Filaments Ltd spoke about the importance of employee training and quoted “Investing in employee training programs is a game changer. Then only you can create a culture of quality at every level within the company.” Mr. Vikas Sharan, Former Director India Operations Saurer Textile Solution Pvt Ltd expressed his views as “ Based on the segment we are operating in, we have to ensure that we have to have optimum quality at the best cost possible, utilizing the resources, i.e., man, material, and machine.” In the Indian textile industry, achieving optimal quality at the best possible cost is a paramount objective for sustainablegrowth.Itnecessitatesacarefulassessment of the segment in which a company operates to tailor strategies accordingly. By efficiently utilizing resources, including skilled labor, quality materials, and advanced machinery, manufacturers can strike the right balance between cost-effectiveness and uncompromising quality. For businesses in this sector, the ultimate measure of quality is the customer index, reflecting repeat orders and positive word-of-mouth referrals. When customers are delighted with the products and services, they not only return for more purchases but also become brand advocates, spreading positive reviews to attract new clientele. Mr Vilas Gharat, MD Gharat Associates talked about the customer retention and quoted “Quality for me is customer index, by which I get repeat orders and the same customer gives mouth publicity to give more and more orders. This is the quality parameter for me.” Achievingahighcustomerindexrequiresanunwavering commitment to delivering superior products, meeting specific requirements, and addressing customer preferences. It involves understanding the ever-evolving needs of consumers and adapting swiftly to market trends. Ensuring quality goes beyond just the end product; it encompasses every aspect of the supply chain, from sourcing raw materials to packaging and labeling. Dr. Amit Lath, CEO Sharda Group of Companies shared one of the real-time case study where a small act of negligence costed the business a lot and impacted the profitability of the business. Such incidents emphasize the importance of vigilance and attention to detail at every level of the manufacturing process. Quality assurance measures should be integrated throughout the organization, fostering a culture. “Cultural change needs to come at various levels. Sometimes we receive the products with the right quality but there are other complications that we might see like wrong labelling, wrong cartons. Quality needs to be assured at every level”, said Dr Lath. Among the other notable participants were Mr. Piyush Chandarana (Business Head Chirpal Group of Companies), Mr. Manish Joshi (Founder SnA Pathfinders), Dr. SB Muttagi (Former Lecturer Govt Polytechnic Nagpur), Mr. Pramod Raichurkar (Director MANTRA) and Mr. Mayur Basuk (Deputy Director WRA) those who shared their profound insights on the subject of quality. As we conclude this roundtable excerpt, we are inspired by the dedication of industry leaders and their shared commitment to elevating the standards of quality. Let us carry forward these valuable insights and work collaboratively towards propelling the Indian textile industry to new heights of excellence and global recognition. Together, we will weave a tapestry of innovation and resilience that will define the future of textiles in India. You can watch and listen to all the Podcasts and Roundtables on the official YouTube and Spotify channel of The Yarn Bazaar.
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  • 74. AUGUST 2023 72 www.textilevaluechain.in Expert Opinion Current Trends in the Yarn Market The yarn market is currently experiencing a subtle yet discernible current of activity, particularly in select products such as Hosiery and in specific regions like Ludhiana, Kolkata, and NCR. This activity appears to be driven by a surge in export sales in the first half of July 2023, albeit at lower prices, indicating a complex interplay of market forces. Empty pipelines, especially in the domestic market, an increase in S-6 spot prices from 56000/candy levels to 57000/candy the closure of 1800 spinning mills out of 2200 in Tamil Nadu could be other reasons. But before this Indian yarn market, encompassing both exports and the domestic segment, has more or less grappled with significant challenges that have had a detrimental impact on spinning denim units. These challenges are predominantly centred around declining capacity utilization, a factor primarily driven by distress in demand. Rising interest rates, changing consumer preferences, and inaccurate crop forecast- ing further compound these challenges. Each of these factors contributes to a market environment that is as complex as it is challenging. Impact of Global Events on the Yarn Market Despite a ten-day bullish streak in yarns, the fabric market paints a rather sombre picture. The consum- er demand at the retail level, particularly in Europe and the US, is marked by weak strokes, slowing down the momentum of purchases. Inflated consumer pric- es have emerged as a significant antagonist, casting a long shadow over the demand for yarn. The strategies of the world’s major central banks in setting monetary policy amidst the easing signs of the worst inflation crisis in a decade will be a pivotal chap- ter in this narrative. Adding to the complexity of the plot is the ongoing Russia-Ukraine conflict. This geopo- litical drama continues to churn the markets, creating uncertainty that discourages buyers from engaging in new deals and fabric purchases. The numbers tell a compelling part of this story. Textile and apparel exports from India contracted by 11.3% in June and 12.2% in May compared to the same period in the previous year. In June 2023, spun yarn exports fell from 115.5 Mn Kgs in May to 81.4 Mn Kgs, marking a decrease of 29.5%. Similarly, cotton yarn exports also dipped in June, from 89.2 Mn Kgs in May to 67.6 Mn Kgs, a reduction of 24.2%. Dealers’ Chess Game: The Wait-and-See Approach and Manufacturers’ Challenges Dealers are currently choosing to step back, adopting a ‘wait and watch’ stance. They patiently waiting for the fog of uncertainty to lift before making their next move. This cautious approach underscores their desire for more clarity in the market’s ever-shifting landscape. Meanwhile, manufacturers catering to local markets are finding themselves in a challenging position. A lack of order placements from brands is resulting in a heavy burden of finished inventories. The consequence? A blockage of funds and delayed preparations for the winter season, pushing them further into uncharted waters. Denim Capacity Utilization Dilemma Denim capacity utilization has plummeted to less than 45%, indicating the severity of the challenges faced by denim plants and export-oriented manufacturers. Denim plants with in-house spinning facilities are now looking to sell their yarn in the market. Export-oriented By Mr. Balkrishan Sharma Joint President Business Head- Spinning, Ginni Filaments Geopolitical Disarray and Distress in Demand: An Inside Look at India’s Current Textile Turbulence
  • 75. www.textilevaluechain.in 73 AUGUST 2023 manufacturers are also experiencing difficulties, with some even shutting down operations on weekends. Currently, their capacities are functioning at less than 50%. Cotton Prices and Its Impact The price of S-6 cotton paints a stark picture of the cur- rent scenario in the Indian yarn market. Over a span of just 73 days, from May 1st to July 13th in FY23, cot- ton prices plummeted from 61,750 rupees/candy to 56,000 rupees/candy, indicating a staggering decline of 5,750 rupees/candy. This sharp decrease becomes even more alarming when compared to the peak lev- els of the cotton season, where prices reached a high of 71,800 rupees/candy. This translates to a significant decrease of 15,800 rupees/candy from the season’s peak. The continuous downward trend in cotton prices forced buyers in the value chain to adopt a cautious approach till 14th July, 23, delaying their buying deci- sions However, it is only after 14th July 23 that the pric- es started increasing and reached up to 57000/candy, thereby helping in yarn momentum to an extent. Repercussions for Spinning Mills The distress in demand, has had severe repercussions for spinning mills in India. Yarn prices eased faster than cotton prices due to sluggish demand from both the export and domestic sectors. As a result, spinning mills find themselves incurring cash losses. Many spinning mills who were overly aggressive, chasing growth at all costs, expanding too quickly or just don’t have a point of differentiation have suffered, quickly pivoting into cost cutting mode and are now playing from behind. Furthermore, the high inventory of expensive cotton further adds to their challenges. This dire situation has led to spinning mills in Coimbatore declaring a halt in production and the sale of yarn starting from July 15th , indicating the severity of the issue. Although some of the spinning mills have agreed to restart production this week, but will their demands be met is a question. The Value Chain and Crop Forecasting Ironically, the entire value chain, from farmers to gin- ners and spinners, has suffered this season. Besides demand, misleading figures regarding crop size also played a villain. The estimation of a crop size of 298.5 lac bales by the Cotton Association of India in May led value chain to anticipate a cotton shortage. However, the actual figures indicate that the crop size might soar to 330-340 lac bales. In fact, the CAI meeting on July 10th , 2023, reported an increase in the projected cot- ton crop for the season 2022-2023 by 12.83 lac bales to 311.18 lac bales, while projecting a reduction of ex- ports by 4 lac bales to 16 lac bales. Fast forward to July 21st, 2023, and 298 lac bales have already made their arrival, with 256 lac bales already consumed. The ex- port tally stands at 13 lac bales, and imports are close behind at 12.5 lac bales. The expectation is that the carry forward shall be close to 30-35 lac bales. Need for Accurate Forecasting The lack of accurate crop forecasting and consumption figures hinders progress and highlights the need for adopting reliable methods for forecasting crops and understanding consumption patterns. Accurate fore- casting methods and reliable data are essential for in- formed decision-making and effective planning. Challenges and Future Outlook The textile industry is grappling with a trio of formi- dable challenges. The distress in demand, inaccurate crop forecasting, and shifting consumer preferences for clothing - a necessity only surpassed by food, en- ergy, and the need to service increasing interest rates - have collectively thrown a spanner in the industry’s growth and profitability. Regrettably, the horizon offers little promise of a clear sky. The trend seems set on its course, and the capital environment, strained and taut, is expected to extend its influence well into 2024. While whispers of a big new wave echo in the media, the reality paints a different picture. The bustling activ- ity in the retail sector has hit the pause button, taking a breather. The pressure on consumer purchasing power, now more intentional and discerning, is another signif- icant factor. However, this pressure is expected to ease off only when inflation starts to relent. While the de- pletion in demand is a challenge that offers little room for manoeuvre, there are other areas where proactive steps can make a difference. It is crucial for all stake- holders to adopt accurate forecasting methods, rely on reliable data, and foster informed decision-making. These are the compass, map, and rudder that can help navigate the stormy seas of these challenges, steering the industry towards calmer waters.
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  • 78. AUGUST 2023 76 www.textilevaluechain.in ITMA Review “We are more than satisfied with the way ITMA went,” says Mahlo CEO Rainer Mestermann. “After the events of the last few years, we could not automatically expect such a large crowd at our stand and at the entire fair.” The interdisciplinary team at the stand in Hall 18, consisting of sales, application technology and service staff from Germany as well as the international sales and service partners, received visitors from all parts of the world. “Of course, there was a strong influx from Italy, but Turkey, India, Bangladesh, Pakistan and Latin America were also particularly well represented, in our estimation.” The number of guests from China was somewhat lower, but this is understandable, as ITMA Asia is due to take place there later this year. At the Mahlo stand, guests could inform themselves about the product portfolio and the latest developments of the machine manufacturer for process optimisation in textile finishing. The visitors felt very well looked after by the internal and external team. “A workshop preceding the ITMA at the headquarters in Saal guaranteed that all contact persons of the target markets were up to date with the latest developments.” This expertise was then in demand virtually around the clock. Energy saving methods on top of clients’ agenda The topics of quality, energy saving and return on investment were at the top of the agenda for many visitors. This was accompanied by great interest in data management and data recording. The new X-Series concept for forward control of knitwear with strong distortions was particularly in focus. The Orthopac RXVMC straightening machine, which Mahlo looks back on the successful trade fair All expectations exceeded at Milan After the rapid and unpredictable challenges of recent years, ITMA 2023 was eagerly awaited. The world’s most important textile trade fair has always been a visitor guarantor, but would that be the case this time? After a week at the Fiera di Milano, it is clear: expectations were exceeded many times over. The stand of the German machine builder Mahlo GmbH + Co KG was bustling from the first to the last day.
  • 79. www.textilevaluechain.in 77 AUGUST 2023 was presented for the first time in Milan, can remove distortions in textile fabric webs even faster and more precisely. The exhibit was delivered to a customer in Italy after the fair. Mahlo’s new X series concept convincing customers “With the new straightening concept, special attention was paid to the straightening mechanics and their interaction with the analysis electronics of the scanner system,” explains Head of Sales Thomas Höpfl. Two individually controlled and driven straightening modules with a total of four bow and three skew rollers ensure that the correction of bow and skew distortions takes place in small steps. The control concept is also new. A scanner group at the infeed of the straightening machine detects distortions even before they reach the correction rollers. This way, the rollers are brought directly into position and the fabric is corrected from the very first centimetre. A scanner group at the outlet also detects possible residual distortion, which is corrected at the second straightening module. This enables an even more precise and faster response when it comes to reacting to rapidly changing distortions. The Orthopac RXVMC therefore shows its full strength when straightening knitwear and distortion-sen- sitive fabrics. It guarantees higher quality goods and thus less waste. “Especially at a time when our customers are under increased cost pressure and competition in the textile industry is intensifying, our new concept has been convincing.” Not only the exhibits proved to be a visitor magnet, but traditionally also the Mahlo bistro with its Bavarian specialties. With the successful combination of high-tech and Bavarian down-to-earthiness, Mahlo’s trade fair appearance at ITMA 2023 was impressive. Not only the exhibits proved to be a visitor magnet, but traditionally also the Mahlo bistro with its Bavarian specialties.