Textile Value Chain- July 2022

1
TVC | JULY 2022
www.tex�levaluechain.in
V O L U M E 1 0 | I S S U E N O . 0 7 | R S 1 0 0 | P a g e s 1 0 3
I S S N N O : 2 2 7 8 - 8 9 7 2 | R N I N O : M A H E N G / 2 0 1 2 / 4 3 7 0 7
Brand Focus :
- BSmart and Lycra
- Pra�bha Syntex
- Karl Mayer
- Rieter
- NanoTex�le
Event Review :
- Gartex Mumbai
- ITM 2022
- Texfair 2022
Denim, The way of Life ...!!!
JUL
LY
202
2

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TVC | JULY 2022
1ST GLOBAL
DENIM SOURCING APP
RAW & RIGHT

4 TVC | JULY 2022
11th India International Textile Machinery Exhibition
INDIA ITME
SOCIETY
ESTD. 1980
Supported by
Chairman S. Hari Shankar and Steering Committee of India ITME Society
Invites you to
INVITATION
Soul of Textiles
Tradition to trend under one roof
RSVP : itme@india-itme.com
Tentative Day-wise program Schedule
Day 1 8-12-2022, Thursday
10-12-2022, Saturday
Day 3
11-12-2022, Sunday
Day 4
12-12-2022, Monday
Day 5
13-12-2022, Tuesday
Day 6
Day 2 9-12-2022, Friday
Exhibition & B2B Meetings
Training cum Workshop
DKTE Technical Seminar & Alumni Meet
Training cum Workshop
Award Function
Farewell & Valedictory Function
Conclusion of Exhibition
CEO Meet
Global Press Conference
Day Date Event

5
TVC | JULY 2022
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TVC | JULY 2022
Table
of
CONTENT 15
ADVERTISER INDEX
10: Editorial
COVER STORY
12: The Resurgence of Denim
15: Fibre& Yarn Innova�on Trends in Denim
Industry
20: Driving Factors, Compe��ve Scenario &
Trends in Fabric of Denim Jeans
22: Ultra Rapid Indigo Dyeing – A Path to
Sustainability (Zld)
28: Sangam, A Leader In Single Denim Line:
Modani
30: Our Finishing Knowhow Is Sustainable, Cost-
Eﬃcient: Carmen Silla
32: Anubha Industries Plans More Denim
Garment Produc�on/ Jindal’s Denim Business
Cons�tutes 70%
33: Ultra Denim Exports 70-75% of Denim Output
34: Vinod Denim Raises Capacity to Meet
Demand/ Tencel Blending Goes Well With Denim
CHEMICAL UPDATE
36: The Rise of Biochemical Industry in Tex�le
Coloura�on
37: MMF REPORT
ORGANIC COTTON
39: Weaving Organic Co�on into Our Future
REVIEW PAPER
42:Further Improvements in Rotor Spinning and
Denim Out Of Hemp
47: Compara�ve Performance of Autoconer
IN-PLANT TRAINING
51: Planning For the In-Plant Training
SEWING
56: The Birth of the Sewing Machine!
DIGITALISATION: TRAINING
58: Digital Capability Center Aachen – A Success
Story
61: Technical Tex�les Export
SILK OUTLOOK
63: Indian Silk Is A Not So Happy Story!
64: Natural Fiber Report
RETAIL FOCUS
66: 5 Ways to Build a Successful Omni Channel
Retail Strategy in Fy 23
BRAND FOCUS
69: Smartext Launches Bsmart, an Innova�ve Smart
Labels Powered By Lycra® Fiber
72: Pra�bha, Only Supplier of Biodegradable Garments
75: Karl Mayer’s Focus Is on Green Dyeing: Stefano Agazzi
78: High Intake Order & Sales Mark Rieter’s
1st half in 2022
80: Nanotex�le+ For Exclusive Beneﬁts
81: Event Calendar
EVENT UPDATE
83: Tai Conference
85: GartexTexprocess India Makes a Notable Debut in
Mumbai
89: SimaTexfair 2022 – Successful Expo Conducted At the
Right Time
91: Basant Par�cipa�on at Texfair 2022
ITM REVIEW
93: Over Euro 1.5-Bn Business at ITM 2022
95: Spg Prints Unveils New Technology at ITM 2022
GARTEX REPORT
96: Sabar’ SdualheadServocot with Unique Features
Back Page: Raymond
Back Inside: Raysil
Front Inside: Rimtex
Page 3: Denim & Jeans
Page 4: India Itme 2022
Page 5: Luwa
Page 6: Yarn Expo
Page 7: Basant Wire
Page 8: Colorjet
Page 11: Yash Tex�le
Page 19: Amritlakshmi
Page 27: Uster
Page 35: Cosmo Chemicals
Page 38: Ramkrishna
Page 41: Shree Chintamani
Page 46: Saurer
Page 50: Unitech
Page 55: Staubli
Page 62: Vatsal Exports
Page 65: Alliance
Page 68: Omax
Page 71: Ken India
Page 74: Meera Industries
Page 77: ATE
Page 82: Sakthi
Page 84: Shahlon
Page 88: Wellknown
Page 92: BishnuTexport
Page 97: IGM
Page 98: Yarn Fair
Page 99: Nonwoven Tech
Page 100: Intertex Tunisia
Page 101: Trutzschler

10 TVC | JULY 2022
All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of any of the content from this issue is
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errorsthatmightoccuroranystepstakenbasedintheinformationprovidedherewith.
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Marketing and Advertising Enquiry
Denim & denim jeans are humanity’s dreams,
always. In late 1870s, denim cloth worn by workers, was
created as a workwear. Denim, with roots in the French
town called Nimes, was popularly used in stitching
trousers for Italian sailors in the 19th
century. Since
then, the magic fabric has been transformed beyond
imagination. Today, it is a huge fashion statement
that has matured with myriad applications. There are
exclusive denim weavers and big companies. which have
invested a major part in this wonder cloth to increase
their profits. Blue Denims are the most beautiful things
since the gondola, says someone, who knows all about
denim fashion.“In the right denim, a girl can conquer
the world”, “think, Denim is something everyone feels
comfortable in”,“It’s kind of my uniform, really…. Food.
Water. Denim. Let’s get back to essentials,” chime in a
community of fashionist, makers, leaders, specialists in,
or followers of fashions.
The global market value for denim fabric was US$
21.8 billion in 2020 and was expected to increase to over
US$26 billion by 2026. The retail sales value is projected
to reach at about US$ 71.8 billion 2027. The global denim
jeans market was forecast to be worth around US$ 87.4
billionin2027.Onecaneasilyseethepotentialfromthese
data. China tops in export of denim fabric worldwide,
leading particularly denim made from at least 85 percent
cotton. The higher the amount of cotton in a blend, the
more the denim will stretch and remains stretched over
time, opine denim experts. China and Hong Kong import
the most denim fabric, especially denim made from less
than 85 percent cotton. Levi Strauss, is the largest in
denim jeans market with sales hitting overUS$4.45 billion
in 2020. Usually, garment makers source from reputable
mills such as Raymond, Arvind Mills, Vardhman, Ashima,
and others to ensure the highest standard.
India’s denim wear market is expected to grow
at a CAGR of 14.5% and touch Rs 39,651 crore by 2022,
and Rs 77,999 crore by 2026. The men’s denim segment
comprises 84% and the women’s and kids’ denim
segments embrace 10% and 6% respectively.
The numbers are a testimony. Should we say
more? Please read our Exclusive Cover Story in this
issue.
- Samuel Joseph
The Denim Dream
CREATIVE DESIGNER
Mr. Anant A Jogale
Advisor - editorial & marketing
Mr. Samuel Joseph
Editorial Assistant
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TVC | JULY 2022
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12 TVC | JULY 2022
Cover Story
It was a roller-coaster ride for the global denim
industry in the last two-and-a-half years. Covid
came & is still lingering as a messy rubble. In
Ukraine, crisis is turning into a worse wreckage.
West&someoftheEastarestruggling in anincipient
catastrophe of blaming each other. World economy
is showing signs of a, however small, emergency.
Cotton, the larger raw material base of denim
industry, floundered in the recent unprecedented
muddle of pricing issue. But Industry world over is
holding tight to high hopes & new dreams, anxiously
awaiting a resurgence. So, is the global and Indian
denim industry.
The denim market is expected to witness
market growth at a rate of 6.7% in the forecast
period of 2022 to 2029. The global jeans market
is expected to register a CAGR of 6.7% during the
forecast period (2020-2025).
The rise in the consumer disposable income
levels is escalating the growth of denim market.
The global denim jeans market size was valued at
$56.2 billion in 2020, and is projected to reach $88.1
billion by 2030, growing at a CAGR of 4.2% from
2021 to 2030. Rise in spending capacity, per capita
consumption of the denim jeans, consciousness
regarding the cloths suitable for the body types
and acceptance for casual wears for office work
is likely to garner the growth of the denim jeans
market. In addition, increase in disposable income
in the developing countries of Asia-Pacific, such
as India and China, has increased the expenditure
on personal grooming and clothing, which further
drives the growth of the global denim jeans market
share, according to Allied Market Research.
A‘sturdyfabric’possiblydrivingitsoriginsfrom
France with a close predecessor named dungaree
from India, denim is most commonly an indigo dyed
cotton textile. With around half of the population
on earth wearing it at any given point of time, this
classic indigo blue fabric is considered to be unique
and has evolved to be a fabric of the masses and a
quintessential American garment. With the demand
of denim continuing to grow, the annual global
production of denim is 15 billion metres with half
of the production coming from Asian countries
The Resurgence of Denim
By Samuel Joseph

13
TVC | JULY 2022
like China, India, Turkey, Pakistan and Bangladesh.
China is the largest exporter of denim accounting
for around 64% of the world’s total, followed by
Pakistan, says Mr. Jitender Kumar, Vice President -
Raw Materials (Fibres), Sutlej Textiles & Industries
Limited, Mumbai (Full interview in TVC July Issue).
He adds: “The use of hemp fibres as an ecological
and cheap alternative … The rotor spinning process
is adopted for the production of hemp yarns….
Recycling and embedding circularity in denim is
adding a unique sustainability punch to this most
popular attire. In addition to fresh sustainable fibres,
recycled fibres (both cotton and polyester from pre-
consumer and/or post-consumer wastes) are getting
extensively used in denim manufacturing.”
Currently, all denim is made out of cotton
fibres or blends with high cotton content using a twill
weave. However, denim has a poor environmental
balance sheet, which starts with the planting of the
cotton needed for it and continues with the high-
water consumption and use of chemicals. Therefore,
in order to reduce the emissions caused by these,
possible alternatives are being sought. A possible
alternative, which is considered is the use of hemp
fibres to substitute cotton, reveals a paper from
the Institut für Textiltechnik of RWTH Aachen
University. “….Therotorspinningprocessisadopted
for the production of hemp yarns…. In a cross-border
project of Germany and the Netherlands named
regional hemp chain for textile production, a jeans
fabric could be produced with hemp fibres broken
down by steam pressure. The yarn was spun on
slightly modified rotor spinning machines. However,
50% cotton was added for better processability”
adds the paper. (Full Paper in July 2022 issue),
Denim exports were at $316 million in the year
2016-17, recording a fall of 11% from the previous
year. The fall in exports was despite the industry
witnessing the massive installation of denim plants
from 2014 - 2019. However, the Indian denim mills
have shown strong growth when it comes to denim
exports which have led to a certain level of stability
in the domestic markets as well. The domestic denim
fabric consumption in 2021 was 750-800 million
meters growing at an annual rate of 12% per annum.
Currently, the situation is normal with no notable
supply-demand imbalance on either the domestic
or global levels, says Dr. S N Modani, Founder
& Managing Director, Sangam India Ltd, whose
journey in denim started in 1984. “We already have
Backward Integration. The majority of our yarns are
already produced in-house courtesy of our open-
end rotors, ring spinning, and texturizing machine,”
adds Modani. (Full interview in TVC July Issue).
The essence of reports TVC reviewed recently
is captured below. (Subscribe to TVC July issue to
read the Cover Story on Denim).
With the demand of denim continuing to rise,
the annual global production of denim is 15 billion
metres with half of the production coming from
Asian countries like China, India, Turkey, Pakistan and
Bangladesh. China is the largest exporter of denim
accounting for around 64% of the world’s total,
followed by Pakistan. The market share of denim in
cotton fabric imports by volume has ranged from
21% to 24% in the last 5 years and its market share
in cotton fabric exports by volume ranged from 14%
to 26% in the last 10 years. With a current market
size of around US$ 57.3 billion in 2020, the market
value is projected to reach US$ 76.1 billion in 2026
growing at a CAGR of over 4.8%.
Conventionally, produced from 100% cotton
and dyed from natural indigo, today’s denim is a
highly transformed new generation fabric. Since
today’s discerning customers of denim clothing
desire lot of aesthetic appeal, fit, wearing comfort,
performance, and sustainability in all aspects of
its production, numerous advances in fibre and
textile technology are presenting newer concepts

14 TVC | JULY 2022
in denim. The highly flexible fashion denims are
now worn by diverse people with assorted tastes.
They are available in different varieties (stretch to
bio-polished), colours (vegetable-based, indigo
to sulphur dyed), fibre blends (most recent being
softer, lighter, comfy silk for all weather denims),
textures, drapes and embodiments suitable to the
recent ‘athleisure’ trend.
Ring spinning remains the leader in yarn
manufacturing for denim fabrics, though experts
anticipate growth in open-end spinning with an
increased use of recycled fibres. Ring and Open-end
core spun, elastic ply yarns, multi-component and
bi-component synthetic filament yarns are put to
use generally to provide stretch. Slubs and multi-
count yarns are utilised to provide fancy effects
to the denim fabric. Knitted denim, embedding
conducting fibres and composite materials into
denim, robotic cutting and sewing for higher
quality garments, 3D-printed jeans are some of the
inventions, holding great the potential to transform
the denim industry. Use of Artificial Intelligence (AI)
and 3D visualisation in the design process and to
study trends and improve retail interface are also in
vogue. Catchphrases of the current time in denim,
According to Messe Frankfurt sources,
Innovative, fashionable, sustainable will define the
DenimShowastheindustrygottogethertoshowcase
their prowess at its first-ever Mumbai edition from
12 – 14 May 2022 at the newly launched Jio World
Convention Centre (JWCC) in BKC.
Leading brands such as Hyosung India, Jindal
Worldwide, Arvind, Ginni International, Raymond
UCO Denim, Bhaskar Denim, LNJ Denim, Oswal
Denims,KGDenim,NandanDenim,andAshimaGroup
among others participated for the Mumbai launch.
The show was jointly organised by Messe Frankfurt
Trade Fairs India Pvt Ltd and Mex Exhibitions Pvt Ltd
under the umbrella of Gartex Texprocess India, and
cover the latest developments in textile, garment
machinery and screen printing with the objective to
encourage investments, new market development
and enable India to be a globally competitive textile
and denim manufacturing destination.
The last few years have redefined the textile
industry with the denim sector going through a big
revamp in terms of the fits and fabric constructions.
While a significant portion of womenswear denim
has hauled from high stretch fabrics to more of
comfort stretch and rigid classic 80s denim, fits
as well moving from skinny to more relaxed and
flared, menswear denim on the contrary is edging
towards comfort to stretch fabrics with clean &
basic washes. Hand-feel plays an important role
for all segments which implies the need of superior
spinning techniques, finer counts and blends.
Overdyed, tinted and coloured jeans are some of
the key fashion products continuing from last few
seasons.
According to one of India’s top denim fabric
manufacturers LNJ Denim, the domestic market is
still dominated by faux knit fabrics but with recent
escalations in the cost of key ingredients, LNJ Denim
expect a shift towards more classic and authentic
denim but with superior hand feel and saturation.
In terms of shades, vintage & versatile pure indigos
are back because of emphasis on clean and mild
washes with raw look for basics while distressed
and bleached denim in the high fashion product for
all genders and age groups.
HeadofMarketingatRaymondUCO,MrSudhir
Deorukhkar explains: “These are small steps in the
right direction towards creating more responsible
denim fabrics that reduces the gap between fashion
and sustainability. These fabrics can be crafted into
a luxurious and versatile garment collection for eco-
conscious consumers.” Raymond UCO has curated
a special denim collection that offers ultimate
comfort, breathability, and moisture management
while also being environment-friendly, which will be
seen at the Denim Show.

15
TVC | JULY 2022
The plethora of innovations at the level of
fibres and their blends, yarn types, stretch
fibre content, weaving techniques and fabric
constructions are all contributing to making denim
an even more desirable fabric ranking high on
fashion and performance.
A ‘sturdy fabric’ possibly driving its origins from
France with a close predecessor named dungaree
from India, denim is most commonly an indigo dyed
cotton textile. With around half of the population
on earth wearing it at any given point oftime, this
classic indigo blue fabric is considered to be unique
and has evolved to be a fabric of the masses and a
quintessential American garment.
With the demand of denim continuing to grow,
the annual global production of denim is 15 billion
metres with half of the production coming from
Asian countries like China, India, Turkey, Pakistan and
Bangladesh. China is the largest exporter of denim
accounting for around 64% of the world’s total,
followed by Pakistan. The market share of denim in
cotton fabric imports by volume has ranged from
Cover Story
Jitender Kumar,
Vice President - Raw Materials (Fibres),
Sutlej Textiles & Industries Limited,
Mumbai.
FIBRE & YARN INNOVATION
TRENDS IN DENIM INDUSTRY
Adding to this, Mr Ashish Bhatnagar, Marketing
Head, LNJ Denim said: “With our commitment
and responsibility towards the environment,
sustainability is more of hygiene for us now with
persistent developments and focuses across various
functional stages of fabric process.” The brand
focuses on functional, sustainable and superior
hand-feel denim fabrics made possible through
various blends, spinning as well as finish innovations
which will also be on display at the three-day Denim
Show in Mumbai.
(In our forthcoming July Issue, Read more
exclusive interviews from the Textile Value Chain. )
The flood of innovations in fibres and their
blends, yarn diversities, stretch fibre use, weaving
systems and fabric structures are all lending new
hopes to make denim an even more looked-for
fabric grading higher on fashion and performance
platform.
To Know Everything About Textiles,
Read

16 TVC | JULY 2022
21% to 24% in the last 5 years and its market share
in cotton fabric exports by volume ranged from 14%
to 26% in the last 10 years. With a current market
size of around US$ 57.3 billion in 2020, the market
value is projected to reach US$ 76.1 billion in 2026
growing at a CAGR of over 4.8%.
Since today’s discerning customers of denim
clothing desire lot of aesthetic appeal, fit, wearing
comfort, performance, and sustainability in all
aspects of its production, numerous developments
in fibre and textile technology are offering newer
concepts in denim. Conventionally produced from
100% cotton and dyed from natural indigo, today’s
denim is a highly transformed new generation
fabric. The highly supple fashion denims are now
draping diverse body shapes.They areavailable in
different variants (stretch to bio-polished), colours
(vegetable-based, indigo to sulphur dyed), fibre
blends (most recent being softer, lighter, comfy silk
for all weather denims),textures, drapes and avatars
fittingthe recent ‘athleisure’ trend.
The more recentand an almost universal
escalation in cost of raw materials and logistics to
decadal highshas necessitated the denim industry
to innovate at all levels tomaintain margins and
contain the rising prices of the products. The denim
manufacturersacrosstheworldhavebeenemploying
various methodsand reverse engineering techniques
to stay afloat and make their products more cost
effective. These measures include reducing the
weight of the fabric, reducing fabric lines to improve
plant efficiency, skewing the product mix towards
more profitable technical fabrics,exploring different
dye combinations and a shiftto less expensive lighter
shades, working with various blends of cotton and
man-made fibres like polyester, modacrylic, aramid
and stretch,increased use of recycled cotton,
recycled polyester and use of newer methods,digital
age machines and automation to save on energy
and water to offset the higher prices of fibres and
other inputs.
The most important innovations in denim have
been the use of new fibres and new fibre blends.
Stretch (synthetic elastic fibres known as
spandex in the US and elastane elsewhere) fibres
blended with cotton have been revolutionising
the entire denim landscape.Lycra as the branded
stretch fibre offers lasting stretch for fit, shape and
comfort and delivers clothes that move with the
body. Lycra T400 fibre provides spandex-free stretch
and bounce-back recovery for exceptional shape
retention. The patented Lycra dualFX technology
goes further by providing two stretch fibres –
spandex (elastane) and a polyester bi-component
fibre (Lycra T400) for unparallel denim performance
which includes high stretch and high recovery and
exceptional dimensional stability. A bi-stretch denim
with spandex spun into both warp and weft is
another important innovation.
Besides synthetic fibres like Polyester and
polypropylene normally used in denim fabric, a
lot of different performance denim concepts are
being realized by blends of cotton and synthetic
fibres like high strength Invista nylon 6,6 resulting
in an engineered Cordura denimfabric known for its
durability, comfort, hard-wearing and an additional
resistance to abrasion keeping the jeans looking
new longer.A combination of Cordura staple nylon
6.6 Black SDN fibre and spun dyed Lenzing Tencel
Modal fibres with Eco Color technology is rendering
black color to denim fabrics at the fibre level
resulting in very effective color consistency, fastness
and retention.
Kevlar as a synthetic aramid fibre provides
exceptional strength and heat resistance and
forms an important mix with cotton to impart
added strength to the denim fabric and increased
durability. Dyneemafibre when blended with cotton
delivers light weight yet exceptionally strong,
durable, abrasion and cut resistant yarns which may
be knitted or woven into denim fabric for outdoor,
sports and fashion industry.
Cotton, generally coarser in fineness
(micronnaire) and shorter in staple length (ranging
from 22mm to 27mm) remains the major cotton
type for spinning yarns suitable for denim fabric.As
an important innovation, finer (lower micronnaire)
cotton types traded generally at a discount to the
normal/premium micronnaire range cotton are
also being used for the purpose of spinning counts
suitable for denim applications. Pre-consumer
waste fibres like combernoil, flat stripping(generally
to the extent of 10-20%) are also used in mixing with
fresh cotton for spinning medium to coarser yarns

17
TVC | JULY 2022
for denim.
The important and well-known cotton
varieties suitable for spinning coarse count yarns
are primarily desi or indigenous cotton strains like
Bengal Deshi grown in the Northern Zone states
of Punjab, Haryana, Rajasthan, V-797 (Kalyaan)in
Gujarat, AK/Y-1 in MP and Maharashtra,Jayadhar
in Karnataka and some other now lesser-known
types in Tamil Nadu.With the advent of high yielding
varieties, hybrids and Bt cotton, the production of
indigenous short staple cotton types has been on the
decline. The increasing denim capacities and smaller
crop production sometimes necessitatesimports of
these cotton types.
The denim industry is also seeing lot of
innovations as far as sustainability of fibres is
concerned. Whereas, Organic and Better Cotton
(BCI) are other sustainable alternatives to
conventional cotton, other natural fibres like hemp,
linen and silk are being looked upon as important
alternatives to scarce and highly resource intensive
cotton fibre. Various combinations of silk (mulberry
and eri silk) are being tried with cotton and linen to
produce versatile new range of fabrics. Whereas eri
silk’s warmth like wool makes the denim garments
suitable for cold weather, other blends of silk with
cotton and linen have been found to be providing
light weight and comfortable denim fabrics for all
weather conditions. Biodegradable synthetics and
bio elastomers are other important sustainable
innovations at the fibre level.
Since denim is a warp-faced textile with weft
passing under two or more warp threads, studies on
clothing comfort in denim fabric from regenerated
cellulosic fibres suggest that Indigo dyed cotton
warp and viscose filament/Tencel weft offered
greater degree of wearing comfort. Regenerated
cellulosic fibres like viscose, Modal, ProModal,
Tencel, blends of cupro, rayon and bamboo have
evolved as important manmade sustainable fibre
alternatives in denim manufacturing. Besides being
eco-friendly, these regenerated cellulosic fibres
and yarns provide much sought-after soft handle,
lightness, subtlety, suppleness, fit, comfort, strength
and durability to denim.
Recycling and embedding circularity in denim
is adding a unique sustainability punch to this most
popular attire.In addition to fresh sustainable fibres,
recycled fibres (both cotton and polyester from
pre-consumer and/or post-consumer wastes)are
getting extensively used in denim manufacturing.
Millsare setting up dedicated recycling unit (s) to
recycle spinning, fabric and garment waste materials
otherwise destined for the landfills.The post-
consumer recycled cotton being slightly coarse and
rough imparts an additional texture and dimension
and richer color hues.
Fibres like Tencel Refibra lyocell as an
important recycled fibre innovation is being seen as
a step towards contributing to the circular economy
in textiles. It involves upcycling cotton waste from
garment production to make new lyocell fibre.
Similarly, Re-Gen fabric is being made from half of
recycled cotton and half of Refibra and not a single
kilo of fresh cotton fibre is used.This is leading to
conserving lot of resources like water, fertilizers
and avoidspolluting agro-chemicals in the form of
pesticides and insecticides used to grow cotton.
Ring spinning remaining the main stay of yarn
manufacturing for denim fabrics, experts foresee
growthinopen-endspinningwithanincreaseduseof
recycled fibres. Ring and Open-end core spun, elastic
ply yarns, multi-component and bi-component
synthetic filament yarns are used to provide stretch.
Slubsandmulti-countyarnsarebeingusedtoprovide
fancy effects to the denim fabric. Knitted denim,
SolucellAir cotton yarns (combining Solucell and
cotton to engineer 3D hollow channel system inside
the cotton fabric), embedding conducting fibres
and composite materials into denim, robotic cutting
and sewing for higher quality garments, 3D-printed
jeans are few other innovations which hold the
potential to revolutionize the denim industry. Use
of Artificial Intelligence (AI)and 3D visualization in
the design process and to study trends and improve
retail interfaceare also in vogue.
Nanotechnologyisprovidingnewerapplication
techniques and imparting more durable and
innovative functional finisheslike UV, antimicrobial
protection, stain-resistance, nano encapsulation
amongst othersthereby offering higher realms of
textile performance, comfort, and environmental
friendlinessthan the conventional.
Graphene as the wonder material isolated

18 TVC | JULY 2022
from Graphite is being used as safe, chemical free
and non-toxic functional finishto enhance the denim
fabricthrough thermal distribution(when coated
on the surface of the fabric), preventformation
of bacteria, an anti-odour effect and a very high
abrasion resistance. Various value-added effects
like vintage, streaks, fading, stone wash, peach skin,
oily feel, permanent 3D creasesand others are now
achieved by the use of enzymes, special finishes
and chemicals. Foam coatings, ozone and ammonia
finishing, bonding, tinting, natural and totally
biodegradable sizing and others are leading smart
innovations which are helping the denim industry
go green and conserve water and energy, reduce
consumption of chemicals, manufacturing costs,
lesserreleaseofGHGsandenhancebiodegradability.
There is a new awakening and a quest to achieve
product stewardship by meetingthe cradle-to-
cradle (C2C) design standards and certification and
sustainability criteria of various eco-labels like Oeko-
tex, green label, bluesignamongst others.
The denim industry is also striving hard to
innovate in dyeing and processing technologies to
remain sustainable. Various other dyeing techniques
like the Crystal-Clear dyeing, Nitrogen dyeing,
foaming, spray dyeing, Indigo Juice dyeing, patented
Kitotex, pre-washing and creating of motifs through
lasers are some of the innovations in dyeing and
processing of denim which conserve precious
resources like water, energy and chemicals unlike
Indigo dyeing which is most water and chemical
intensive with a high environmental impact.
Theplethoraofinnovationsattheleveloffibres
and their blends, yarn types, stretch fibre content,
weaving techniques and fabric constructions are all
contributingtomakingdenimanevenmoredesirable
fabric ranking high on fashion and performance.
References
https://www.monforts.de/wp-content/uploads/
World-of-Denim-7.pdf
https://www.pbs.org/wgbh/americanexperience/
films/riveted-history-of-jeans/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denim
Gokarneshan,Narayanan.(2018).AdvancesinDenim
Research. Research & Development in Material
Science. 3. 10.31031/RDMS.2018.03.000551.
https://sourcingjournal.com/denim/denim-mills/
denim-mills-raw-materials-cotton-indigo-cone-
bossa-royo-lycra-342389/
https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/
engineering/denim-fabric
https://denimhunters.com/27-denim-innovations/
https://www.admdenim.com/dualfx.php
https://cordura.com/denim-fabric
https://www.dsm.com/dyneema/en_GB/home.
html
https://oureverydaylife.com/cordura-vs-
kevlar-12206062.html
https://www.tencel.com/refibra
https://www.fibre2fashion.com/news/textile-
news/newsdetails.aspx?news_id=65232
http://www.aarveedenims.com/divisons/cotton-
fiber/
https://www.business-standard.com/article/
markets/short-staple-cotton-imports-may-rise-to-
meet-denim-requirements-112020800145_1.html
https://en.gaonconnection.com/tamil-nadu-
organic-short-staple-cotton-farming-tamil-new-
year-farmer/
https://www.nfsm.gov.in/StatusPaper/Cotton2016.
pdf
https://www.intechopen.com/chapters/66213
https://www.deccanherald.com/content/327728/
why-jayadhar-cotton-needs-saved.html
https://www.thehindu.com/news/cities/bangalore/
dont-tamper-with-jayadhar-cotton/article6250244.
ece
World Textile Fibre Demand, ICAC, December 2021
http://www.solucell.org/solucell-air

19
TVC | JULY 2022
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20 TVC | JULY 2022
DRIVING FACTORS,
COMPETITIVE SCENARIO &
TRENDS IN FABRIC OF DENIM
JEANS
Rise in sense of fashion among the global
population is influencing the key market
players to focus on product innovations with
various designs, patterns, colors, and fitting, says
content writer, Suchita Gupta.
Denim is one of the world’s most iconic fabrics
indeed. No other variety of fabric has gathered such
huge acknowledgement across the globe. Today, this
durable fabric has become so aesthetically appealing
that one can even find home decor products made
with the denim fabric. Hence, denim business has
been considered as a profitable choice in the mass
market.
India is currently the biggest producer of
denim fabrics. Traditionally, only cotton was used
to manufacture denim fabric, but, now-a-days it
is blended with polyester, to control shrinkage &
wrinkles, as well as, with Lycra to make it stretchable.
The first step of denim production process includes
the cultivation of the cotton plants. Cotton fibres
are then combed and made into long, thin strings
so that a range of dyes, washes, or treatments can
be applied. The dyeing temperature usually varies
between 60°C to 80°C, while for some dyes, it can
be as high as 95°C.
Additionally, tops, dresses, corsets, pants,
and so many other pieces of clothing are being
made with denim to offer people the opportunity
to flaunt a complete denim on denim look. Natural
washed denims with blue or indigo tones are the
most preferred ones in denim fit and style trends. A
vintage trend of baggy jeans,encouraged by the 90s
fashion, is gaining a lot of interest with fashionistas
across the globe recently.Ripped and distressed
jeans are on demand since the last couple of years.
Flared jeans, boot cut jeans, and super wide legged
jeans, meanwhile, are grabbing a lot of attention
over the denim trend. Printed jeans, on the other
hand, are the most innovative twist to classic denim
and the incorporation of street style.
According to a report published by Allied
Market Research, the global denim jeans market
size is expected to reach US$88.1 billion with a
considerable CAGR from 2021 to 2030. North
America is currently holding the highest market
share and is expected to maintain its dominance
during the forecast period.
Moreover, the Asia-Pacific region is providing
lucrative opportunities for the growth of the market.
This is owing to rise in disposable income in the
emerging economies such as China & India, which
has significantly increased the spending capacity
Cover Story
Suchita Gupta
Content Writer

21
TVC | JULY 2022
of people on clothing for personal grooming,
thereby boosting the growth of the global denim
jeans market. Factors such as growing standard of
living,introduction of denim jeans with antimicrobial
properties, launch of eco-friendly denim jeans,
surge in trend of wearing denim jeans in work
stations, offices,& special occasions, and per capita
consumption of the denim jeans, at the same time,
are contributing to the growth of the market in more
than one way.
However, the outbreak of the COVID-19
pandemicledtohaveanegativeimpactonthegrowth
of the global denim jeans market. This is attributed
to the implementation of the global lockdown, which
resulted in halting the denim production hubs across
the world temporarily. Due to strict regulations
and ban on import & export activities, a severe
disruption caused in the global supply chain. This in
turn, created several difficulties in supplying the raw
materials. Shortage of skilled labor force, temporary
closure of retail stores & malls, dynamic changes in
expenditure pattern, and decline in sales of denim
jeans were a few more factors that restrained the
growth of the market, especially in the initial period.
Nevertheless, the market has already started to
recover and is expected to get back on track soon.
Furthermore, rise in sense of fashion among
the global population is influencing the key market
players to focus on product innovations with various
designs, patterns, colours, and fitting. On top of
that,several fashion influencers on social media
and e-commerce platform are helping the fashion
industry to grow with a wide array of denim jeans
types such as skinny, tapered, athletic, and regular
fit jeans, which is sequentially boosting the demand
for denim jeans.
In addition, technological advancements
have allowed Levi Strauss to design a new jean
that is compatible with iPod music player. Also, this
company has come up with a bullet proof denim
jacket that has the looks of a perfect casual wear.
Here, it is worth mentioning that the global denim
jeans market has a huge scope to assemble immense
growth in the years to come.
Author’s Bio: Suchita Gupta is an explorer,
musician and content writer. While pursuing MBA,
she found that nothing satisfies her more than
writing on miscellaneous domains. She is a writer
by day, and a reader by night. Besides, she can be
found entertaining her audience on social media
platforms. Find her on LinkedIn & Instagram.
When in Doubt , Wear Denim !!!

22 TVC | JULY 2022
A
bstract: Denim is the worldwide most
popular form used by all generations. Due to
very high volumes consumed daily, Brands
are deliberated to look for sustainability to save
the environment. Water, air and soil are the basic
elements in life. Conventional Indigo dyeing is a
lengthy process requiring pretreatment, washing,
battery of (dip, nip & air) indigo dyeing followed by
washing, drying and sizing beaming or batching. This
process uses huge amounts of resources like water,
chemicals, and energy. To achieve sustainability
over the conventional process, thorough study and
continual research has led to the evolution of ultra-
rapid dyeing technology.
This technology primarily focuses on the
concept of ultra-rapid indigo dyeing. Here the
substantivity of the indigo solution is tremendously
increasedbyachievingtherequiredphysico-chemical
parameters in an inert atmosphere. This enables the
super substantive leuco indigo to instantaneously
penetrate with a decreasing gradient in the core
of the fibre. Thus, giving darker shades at minimal
contact time. This evolved technology has been
successfully tested on cotton, bast and regenerated
yarns with certain preconditions. This technology
is being developed for achieving sustainability in
indigo dyeing. Here near zero water denim dyeing
has been made possible using the ultra-rapid indigo
dyeing technology.
1 Introduction
1.1 Sustainability is a social and ecological
process characterized by the pursuit of common
ideals [1] denoting the ability to continue to exist.
As ecologists believe that sustainability is achieved
through the balance of species and resources in
the environment, the consumption of available
resourcesmustnotbefasterthannaturallygenerated
resources in order to maintain this balance [2,3].
Sustainable development means striving to
balance local and global environments without
damaging the natural environment, so as to meet
the basic needs of mankind [4]. The result of rapid
industrialization has led to several toxic chemical
substances such as dye affecting the environment,
causing serious environmental pollution [5].
1.2 Denim is a unisex fashionable woven wear
for all generations. The global jeans business is
increasing in a drastic way because of its comfort-
ability, trend, and performance. Till today majority
of the denim production is done in the conventional
way using slasher, rope dyeing machines. There
have been advancements in these conventional
technologies for achieving specific goals like super
dark shades, multiple colour dyeing, precise e
controls for better workability, adaptability for
running various processes, also modifications to
achieve sustainability etc. A Sustainable future can
beachievediftheusageoflessenergy,lesschemicals
and less water is emphasised.
1.3 Denim Manufacturing in Brief:
Denim is a cotton warp-prominent twill fabric where
ULTRA RAPID INDIGO DYEING
[PA]
- A
PATH TO SUSTAINABILITY (ZLD)
COVER STORY
Director
Atharvaved Impex , Maharashtra India.
Head Operation
Director & COO
WFB Baird & Co India Pvt. Ltd.
Kochi, Kerala, India.
Bhushan Chaudhari
Jaydeep Umalkar
Pradeep Pillai

23
TVC | JULY 2022
the weft passes below two or more warp threads[6]
.Ideal processes involving denim fabric production
are warping, dyeing, sizing, weaving, finishing, and
inspection. Denim is always warp dyed which takes
place after warping, unlike other woven fabrics.
Previously, all denim utilized ring-spun yarns, but
later on, ring yarns were replaced by OE yarns due
lesser price and rapid manufacturing of open-end
(OE) yarn, known as rotor spinning [7]. Yarns used
for warp of denim fabrics are typically 100% Cotton
in composition and comparatively coarser than
other woven fabrics.
Warping can be two types depending on the
dyeingmachine--BallwarpingorBeamwarping.This
warp loaded on creel passes through pretreatment
(wetting + scouring), 2 to 3 washings, 8 to 12 indigo
dyeing (dip + nip + air), 3 to 4 post washing, drying,
for sheet form sizing and beaming and for rope
batching in cans followed by rebeaming and sizing.
These sized beams are woven and finished as per
requirement.
1.4 Principle in Indigo dyeing:
Indigo, C I 1 the first colour discovered and
documented was dyed on textile materials in
wooden pots or vats in the early days and are water-
insoluble coloured compounds [8]. To make this dye
soluble, two steps of reaction are required. First,
reduction of vat dye into leuco vat dye by sodium
hydrosulphite. Second, neutralization of leuco vat
dye with caustic soda to give soluble sodium salt of
leuco vat dye. After dyeing, oxidation is needed to
reconvert the water-soluble sodium salt of leuco vat
dye into the water-insoluble original vat dye. Rinsing
at ambient temperatures in 2-3 rinsing baths after
oxidation is normally adequate to remove alkali and
unoxidized leuco compounds [6] .
1.5 Environmental challenges in Traditional Dyeing:
Traditional Indigo dyeing is a water-consuming
process. High amounts of water flow in wash boxes.
In Pre-wash boxes to rinse out caustic soda and other
auxiliariescompletelyfromthesubstrate.Continuous
rinsing also reduces the yarn temperature thereby
preparing the substrate for indigo dyeing at room
temperature. In Post-wash boxes to rinse out unfix
dyes and chemicals from dyed yarn surface. Huge
amounts of other resources like steam, compressed
air and power are also consumed in running the
traditional indigo dyeing machines which also adds
to the costs and various environmental factors. As
per the Greenpeace report, for producing two billion
jeans pants every year, it takes a total of 1.7 million
tons of chemicals and water consumption can reach
as much as 7,000 litres per one pair [9].
Consumption of large quantities of chemicals
and freshwater ends up in increased product cost
and larger volume of chemically loaded effluents;
particularly high pH and high quantity of sulfate salts
due to sodium dithionite followed by unfixed indigo
dye and their by products [10] .
1.6 Taking in consideration all the associated
drawbacks in traditional indigo dyeing, Ultra Rapid
Indigo dyeing technology is developed, achieving
the most required sustainability. In this evolved
dyeing method, the substantivity of the leuco
indigo is exponentially increased by maintaining the
required physico-chemical parameters in an inert
atmosphere. This enables the super substantive
leuco indigo to instantaneously penetrate with a
decreasing gradient in the core of the fibre. Thus,
giving darker shades at minimal contact time (Fig1.).
This evolved technology has been successfully tested
on cotton, bast and regenerated yarns with certain
preconditions. Here near zero water indigo dyeing
has been made possible using the ultra-rapid (Flash)
indigo dyeing technology ultimately achieving
sustainable indigo dyeing.
Linen is very difficult to run on conventional
indigo dyeing machines due to many known
reasons. Hence in this dyeing experiment we have
chosen linen as the most sustainable textile fibre
to understand the benefits of this technology. Here
the basic properties of linen yarn before and after
dyeing have been compared. Using this technology
linen in cone form as well as sheet form can be dyed,
thus fulfilling the requirements of warp and weft.
2 Materials and Ultra Rapid dyeing Method :
2.1 Linen yarn.
2.2 Chemicals -Liquid indigo solution, water,
dispersing aid, alkali, reducing aid.

24 TVC | JULY 2022
2.3 Ultra rapid Indigo dyeing[PA] method.
2.3.1 Preparation of Indigo Dyeing solution:
Measured quantity of pre-reduced indigo dye
solution is taken in a air sealed chamber having
99.9% pure nitrogen at a predetermined pressure, to
make up the volume blank vat (specially developed
chemical system, consisting of dispersing aid, alkali
and environmentally friendly reducing aid) is added
in measured quantity to get the desired Indigo
concentration.
2.3.2 The prepared dyeing solution is dosed
in the indigenously designed dyeing apparatus at
specified time, temperature and pressure making
the leuco dye highly substantive. The material to be
dyed is passed through the specially designed dyeing
apparatus where simultaneous application of this
highly substantive leuco dye is done in milliseconds.
Thus, enabling the super substantive leuco indigo
to instantaneously penetrate with a decreasing
gradient in the core of the fibre (Fig 1). Followed by
superficial extraction, drying and batching (Fig 2.).
In this CLP (i.e. Closed Loop Porcess) Total 2 litres of
dye liquor is used out of which colour pick up is 1.5
litres per kg of yarn which is eventually evaporated
in the process. Rest is dechannelized for reuse in the
continuous dyeing process. Thus, there is as such no
generation of any trade effluent during the ultra-
rapid indigo dyeing process. Here for drying the dyed
material both electric heating chambers and gas
fired chambers have been used ensuring near zero
emissions. This can be further extended to carbon
neutral system such as solar and wind energy.
2.3.3 This indigo dyed yarn is used in weaving
of the respective qualities either in warp and weft
for solids and only in weft for chambray.
2.3.4 After weaving the indigo dyed yarn fabric is
dye-fixed on the stenter and finished according to
the final product requirements.
2.4 Evaluation of Dyed Material
2.4.1 Determination of count of yarn using
Standard testing method of ASTM D1059
2.4.2 Determination of elongation in % and tensile
strength in RKM of linen yarn using standard testing
method of ASTM D2256
2.4.3 Determination of core pH using Standard
testing method AATCC 81, ISO 105 3071.
2.4.4 Determination of washing fastness using
Standard testing method AATCC 61 2A, ISO 105 CO6
A2S,B2S,C2S.
2.4.5 Determination of rubbing fastness using
Standard testing method AATCC 08, ISO 105 X 12.
3. Results and Discussion
From the data comparison [11] the following
Penetration of Indigo (Fig 1.)
Lower the
application
time Darker
the depth of
shade , better
wash down
effects
Application time (Milli Sec)
Shade Depth
Lower Higher
Darker Lighter
Higher the
application
time Lighter
the depth of
shade, flat
wash down
effects

25
TVC | JULY 2022
Yarn Ultra Rapid Indigo -Finish Fabric
Sr
No
Count
(NM)
Dyed
Yarn
Count
STD RKM
(gm/tex)
RKM (gm/tex)
STD Elongation
(% )
Elongation
(%) Ultra -
Rapid
Indigo
Yarn
Core pH
Surface
pH
Dry Rub
Fastness
Wet Rub
Fastness
Colour
Fastness to
Washing
RFD
Yarn
Dyed
Yarn
Ultra- Rapid
Indigo Dyed
Yarn
RFD
Yarn
Dyed
Yarn
Ultra -
Rapid
Indigo
Dyed Yarn
1 24 23.7 28 24 27.09 2.1 1.5 2.04 10.44 7 4 3 3
2 33 32.5 28 24 25.45 2.1 1.5 1.74 9.85 7 4 3-4 4
3 33 32.3 28 24 25.19 2.1 1.5 1.728 10.28 6.8 4 3 4
4 33 32.4 28 24 24.28 2.1 1.5 1.26 9.9 7 4 3 4
5 33 33.1 28 24 25.32 2.1 1.5 1.401 10.13 6.9 4 2 3-4
6 26 25.5 28 24 26.62 2 1.5 1.15 9.84 7 4 3 4
7 26 25.8 28 24 25.6 2 1.5 1.51 9.94 7 4 3-4 4-5
8 26 26.4 28 24 23.83 2 1.5 1.542 10.06 6.8 4 3 4-5
9 26 25.2 28 24 24.83 2 1.5 1.452 10.35 7.5 4 4 4
10 26 25.4 28 24 25.03 2 1.5 1.432 10.22 6.5 4 3-4 4
11 20 19.5 30 24 28.1 2.1 1.5 1.6 9.61 6.7 4 3 4
12 20 21 30 24 24.83 2.1 1.5 1.424 9.98 7 4 4 4-5
13 18 17.8 30 24 25.3 2.1 1.5 1.62 9.63 7.5 4 3-4 4
14 18 17.6 30 24 23.82 2.1 1.5 1.601 10.2 7 4 3 4
inference can be drawn:
y
y There is no considerable change in count of the
dyed yarn.
y
y Tensile strength of the indigo dyed linen yarn
is well above the set standard for regular dyed
linen yarns.
y
y Elongation % of the Indigo dyed yarn is nearly
up to the standard.
y
y Conventional process involves pre and post
washings whereas in ultra-rapid indigo dyeing
no such treatment is done. Considering no
wash done, Core pH of the ultra-rapid Indigo
dyed yarn is comparable with the conventional
indigo dyed yarn which is always in the range of
9.5 to 10.
Washing fastness and rubbing fastness of the indigo
dyed yarn fabric is average, which can be further
improved by optimizing the process parameters
and the sequence of fabric processing based on
the requirements of the final attributes required in
garments.
Drying of the dyed material is done using a
Ultra Rapid Indigo Dyeing Process (Fig 2.)
Creel
• Yarn In Cone or Sheet form
Flash
Indigo
Reactor
• Indigenously developed Unit consisting of activator which increases the
kinetic energy of Leuco indigo molecules.
Applicator
• Application of highly substantive Leuco Indigo on yarn.
• Very short volume for precise control
Drying
• Quick drying to lock the Indigo in the Yarn
Winding
• Winding in beam form or cone form for warp and weft use.

26 TVC | JULY 2022
combination of electric heated chambers and Lpg
fired chambers there by reducing the burden of
CO2 generated. In this case based on actual running
average consumption of electricity and LPG, the total
direct GHG emissions and indirect GHG emissions
are 1.438 KgCO2/Kg of ultra-rapid indigo dyed yarn.
4. Conclusion
The main aim of using the ultra-rapid indigo
dyeing technology is to achieve sustainability by
reducing water usage, using less energy and less
harmful chemicals in getting the regular Indigo dyed
yarn as per the conventional process.
From the above results in comparison with the
standards derived from conventional process we can
conclude that the properties of Ultra rapid Indigo
dyed yarn under study are up to the mark and have
no hurdles in being readily absorbed in the regular
production.
Water trajectory – Approximately 150 litres of
waterperkgfabricisutilisedinatypicalindigodyeing
process [9]. By using the Ultra Rapid Indigo Dyeing
technology this utilisation can be brought to 2 litres
of water per kg of yarn i.e. in corresponding fabric
this will translate to 1 litre per kg of denim fabric
where warp is indigo dyed and weft is plain white.
This technology enables to use only approx. 1% of
water compared with conventional indigo dyeing
process. Since all the dye liquor being consumed
and reused there is no effluent generated at source.
Hence, saving in treatment of wastewater, saving in
energy, and savings in raw material and chemicals in
indigo dyeing and subsequent process.
New generation customers are very much
aware of environmental hazards, sustainability,
sustainable supply chain, and corporate social
responsibility. That is why retailers are now turning
towards sustainable apparel production. So, an eco-
friendly ultra-rapid indigo dyeing process can be a
good concept for the sustainable denim business.
References
[1] Wandemberg, J.C. Sustainable by Design;
CreateSpace Independent Publishing Platform:
Seattle, WA, USA, 2015; ISBN 978-1516901784.
[2] Chaudhary, S.; Mehra, R.; Head, E.E. Role of
Globalized Approach for Sustainability Development
In Human Life. People Int. J. Soc. Sci. 2018, 4, 1497–
1507. [CrossRef]
[3] Davies, N. Using Bact eria to Decolourize Textile
Wastewater. AATCC Rev. 2017, 17, 32–37. [CrossRef]
[4] Robert, K.W.; Parris, T.M.; Leiserowitz, A.A. What
is Sustainable Development? Goals, Indicators,
Values, and Practice. Environ. Sci. Policy Sustain.
Dev. 2005, 47, 8–21. [CrossRef]
[5] Dhanjal, N.I.K.; Mittu, B.; Chauhan, A.; Gupta, S.
Biodegradation of Textile Dyes Using Fungal Isolates.
J. Environ. Sci. Technol.2013, 6, 99–105. [CrossRef]
[6] E. Csanák, “Denim Fitting & Finishing : Challenges
on High-Quality,” in International Joint Conference
on Environmental and Light Industry Technologies,
2015, no. November, p. 10.
[7] M. G. Uddin, “Indigo Ring Dyeing of Cotton Warp
Yarns for Denim Fabric,” Chem. Mater. Eng., vol. 2,
no. 7, pp. 149–154, 2014.
[8] V. A. Shenai, Chemistry of Dyes and Principles of
Dyeing, Third. Mumbai: Sevak Publications, 1997.
[9] B. Jiby., “The Indian Denim Industry In a Market
Driven Environment,” Int. J. Adv. Res., vol. 5, no. 6,
pp. 2088–2095, Jun. 2017.
[10] S. Meraj, A. Qayoom, and A. S. N., “Effective
Process Optimization of Indigo Rope Dyeing : A
Case Study,” J. New Technol. Mater., vol. 6, no. 2, pp.
33–37, 2016.
[11] Actual testing DATA as received from WFB Baird
& Company Pvt. Ltd. Kochi, Kerala, India.
[12] PA - Patent Applied.

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Weave it right: spot defects on the loom

28 TVC | JULY 2022
Cover Story
SANGAM, A LEADER IN
SINGLE DENIM LINE:
MODANI
Sangam India, today is one of the top 5 exporters
of Denim from India, and more than that it
effectively adopted a zero-water discharge
process from effluent treatment plants which is
crucial in reducing industrial pollution, says Dr. S
N Modani, Founder & Managing Director, Sangam
India Ltd.
Dr. Modani holds a PhD in strategic management
practices for a sustainable future, along with a
Masters Science (M.Sc), with honours in Chemistry,
as well as an MBA qualification along with a Post-
Graduate Diploma in Cement Technology from
NCBM, Faridabad.He has a rich experience in the
textile industry, having previously held positions in
key or ganisations such as Chairman at The Rajasthan
Textile Mills Association, Director at Indian Cotton
Mills Federation, President, Mewar Chamber of
Commerce & amp; Industry and Vice President,
Rajasthan Chamber ofCommerce &I ndustry. Dr.
Modani’s stints include association with some of
India’s leading industry bodies like FICCI.
TVC: Tell us about the denim journey of your
company – from its inception to its current status.
Modani: Our humble beginnings date back to 1984,
when we started with 8 weaving machines and
today have become one of the foremost producers
in PV dyed yarn, cotton and OE yarn also ready-to-
stitch fabric. Looking at India’s fast-growing denim
sector, both internationally and nationally, we took
a strategic business decision to launch the vertical
in 2007 with a single denim line, becoming the
first company to do so in Bhilwara. We currently
have a capacity of producing 4 million meters per
month and export 50% of our capacity to more than
20 nations such as Colombia, Mexico, Argentina,
Bangladesh and Chile to name a few.
TVC: A few years ago, denim was hit by overcapacity
& dull demand. What do you think is the situation
now – domestically as well as internationally.
Modani: As per the Ministry of Commerce, Denim
exports were at $316 million in the year 2016-17,
recording a fall of 11% from the previous year. The
fall in exports was despite the industry witnessing
the massive installation of denim plants from 2014 -
2019. However, the Indian denim mills have shown
strong growth when it comes to denim exports
which have led to a certain level of stability in the
domestic markets as well. The domestic denim
fabric consumption in 2021 was 750-800 million
meters growing at an annual rate of 12% per annum.
Currently, the situation is normal with no notable
supply-demand imbalance on either the domestic
or global levels.
TVC: Any backward or/and forward integration
plans? Give us details.
Modani: We already have Backward Integration. The
majority of our yarns are already produced in-house
courtesy of our open-end rotors, ring spinning, and
texturizing machine.
TVC: How does your company contribute to green
technology and sustainability?
The textile industry had a significant negative
influence on the environment due to the additional
consumption of natural resources.Taking cognizance
ofourenvironment,weatSangamIndiaLimited,have
effectively adopted a zero-water discharge process
Dr. S N Modani,
Founder & Managing Director
Sangam India Ltd.
Interviewer: Samuel Joseph

29
TVC | JULY 2022
Chain during recent visit ITM Turkey.
Excerpts from an exclusive interview:
Different Technology used in Denim
During years Jeanologia has been transforming
the way jeans are manufactured and we do it
throughdisruptivetechnologies,innovatessoftware,
operational model and the best in service.
Denim and other fabric dyeing are different
things. These days we are working on the garment
finishing. We have different technologies for
garment finishing, We provide E-Flow solutions, G2
ozone technology and Laser technology.
We believe and want jeans to continue to be an
icon of rebels and freedom, despite its dark era when
it became one of the most polluting garments in the
sector, with our technologies and re-engineering of
jeans, it can become one of the most sustainable
garments. there is simply no excuse to perpetuate
manufacturing practices that can be harmful to
people and to the environment; or to keep using 70
liters of water to finish a jean when you can use 1.
All of this possible while maintaining or improving
manufacturing costs and significantly reducing the
time to market of new products.
We have been working in that direction and
with the technological advances that are available
today for the finishing of denim fabric and jeans.
Laser technology has transformed the Denim
and jeans industry,
Laser technology today allows for the creation
of extraordinary abrasion patterns in jeans that can
aid in the close replication of vintage garments that
were previously impossible to achieve. It also is able
to introduce creative design elements to denim
that rival digital printing in other type of products,
expanding the opportunities to differentiate product
through creativity. All of this while eliminating
difficult hand labor and the use of toxic chemistry
in the detailing of jeans , eliminating the harmful
processes In laser technology we are the leaders
which was launched in 1999. By this process we can
replace manual labour, such as, Manual Scraping
eliminating potassium permanganate spray. In
finishing with laser technology, we have attained
sustainability, efficiency, and endless creative
possibilities. In garment, traditional finishing, we
need 70 litres of water and 150 gm of chemicals.
With our technology, we need only 1 litre of water.
G2 Ozone technology
Ozone application in jeans finishing enable
production centerstogreatlyreducetheuseofwater
and chemicals to remove indigo in the product and
achieve the right shade of blue faster, sustainably
and at lower costs. Treatment with ozone has other
great benefits, like cleaning any residual indigo
redeposition and controlling the cast of the fabric,
eliminating forever the stones on the process.
E-Flow, nanobubbles Technology that uses
micronization to substitute traditional abrasion
process and deliver performance chemistry (color,
softeners, antimicrobial, etc.) using nano-bubbles
instead of water, is reducing the cost of application,
saving the amount of water used and ensuring that
the correct amount of chemistry stays in the garment
and not in the water.
Thetechnologywithnanobubbles,thesolution
giving your garments the desired properties while
saving on water and chemicals. E-Flow technology
withitsdoubletanksystemcreatesprocessversatility
and production flexibility. E-Flow Lab technology
based on nanobubbles enables sampling with all
the finishing effects that can be accomplished in
industrial conditions. We can reduce quantity of
water and chemicals by as much as 89%. We work
always on simplifying the process.

30 TVC | JULY 2022
from effluent treatment plants which is crucial in
reducing industrial pollution. Additionally, we use
the Effluent treatment plants (ETPs) for wastewater
management that help recycle more than 90% of the
water used during the manufacturing process. The
waste is sent to fuel the furnace where it is turned
into a cake and delivered to a cement manufacturing
facility. We are also generating solar power to reduce
our dependence on non-renewable energy.
TVC: What is your company’s exporting status in
denim? Can you briefly trace its growth over the
years?
Modani: Sangam India, today is one of the top 5
exporters of Denim from India. As mentioned earlier,
we supply to over 20 countries globally and had
exported denim fabric worth approximately USD 45
million in the previous financial year.
TVC: What is your company’s denim dream in terms
of production, turnover and future plans?
Modani: If I talk about our vision for the future, we
want to consistently grow our production capacity
of denim fabric responsibly and sustainably. We plan
to manufacture over 480 million meters of denim
fabric this year with a key focus to improve this
number year on year. We would also be constantly
investing in the latest state-of-the-art machinery
which helps us in increasing our manufacturing
pace, thereby enabling us to expand and supply to
more international countries in the coming 5 years.
TVC: What is your view on the future of denim in
India?
Modani: According to a recent study published by
Research & Markets, the global denim market today
stands at close to USD 65 billion which would grow
to about USD 87 billion by 2027. I believe India
would be at the forefront of this growth mainly due
to the easy availability of cotton and yarn at a local
level. Add to that, consistent growth in the domestic
market, favorable government policies and a robust
ecosystem of manufacturing know-how will make
sure that India is one of the largest manufacturers of
denim fabric globally.
Our Finishing
Knowhow is
Sustainable,
Cost-Efficient:
Carmen Silla
Jeanología, based in Spain, is a world leader in
sustainable and efficient finishing technologies
for the textile industry, with presence in over
60 countries. Jeanologia’s “objective is to become
the technological partner to our customers,
accompanying them through their process of
change, and adding value at each step. With our
disruptive technologies we break the norm, to give
our customers innovative and transformative ways
of doing things. We are not here to improve the
textile industry by 10 or 20% but to make it 20 times
better,” proclaims its website.
Ms. Carmen Silla, Jeanologia’s Marketing &
Communication Manager, spoke to Textile Value

31
TVC | JULY 2022
H2Zero, Another process is water treatment
system in wash; finishing processes with zero
discharge . This is a water treatment technology
that leaves water in optimal conditions for its reuse
in washing finishing processes without the need of
chemicals. H2Zero means ZERØ discharge and ZERØ
waste.
Each of these technologies; considered
independently of each other, would mean great
steps towards a more sustainable denim industry.
Using them together delivers a transformational
effect that should become the norm in our industry.
Now coming to Garment Dyeing, adding
colour to the process, we offer the ColorBox a full
line of state-of-the-art garment dyeing equipment
to revolutionise the dyeing, which is one of the most
polluting practices in any country. We don’t just give
technologies, we provide end-to-end solutions, till
final process and to automate the process.
ColorBox is our solution, It ensures the best
product outcome at the lowest production cost
with the minimum impact for the planet
Differentiation / USP of Jeanologia
Jeanologia technologies complement one
another. Our systems focus on capacity, speed
and ultimately it is the quality. We are very cost-
conscious and we don’t launch anything if it is not
workable.
All the technologies are good for denim
to reduce water, toxic substances and also cost
effective in denim garment processing. The goal of
sustainability needs to start at the beginning with
fabric.
G2 Dynamic Ozone technology in denim
fabric finishing is dramatically reducing the amount
of water and chemicals used, while at the same
time saving costs at the mill and eventually at the
garment finishing facilities. This technology makes
fabric more stable and consistent and prepares the
fabric better for the use of other technologies like
laser.
EIM a software to measure the environmental
impact of a finishing formula is being used to allow
brands and manufacturers to make sustainable
decisions starting in the design and product
development phase. This software empowers the
value chain to work together to achieve specific
goals. In some exemplary cases, brands are deciding
to share the results of these metrics with the final
customer, delivering on the promise of transparency
and sustainable production.
Then the most important thing is EIM,
Environmental Impact Measurement, which is a
unique and powerful platform developed to monitor
environmentalimpactofgarmentfinishingprocesses
in an efficient and economically viable way. By this
we know what is the impact on the quantity of water
we use, chemicals we apply. We categorise as low,
medium and high impact and today there are more
than 100 brands which are using this platform. Big
brands like Mango, H&M, etc are using our software.
The software can be used by Jeanologia machines or
any other systems of other technologies.
Market Share In India and World
Jeanologia has 70% share in garment finishing.
We are focusing more on laser technology. In colour,
it is not only denim, but for cotton also, or for
whatever we have the technology.
India has great potential for denim. And also
at Bangladesh, Pakistan, Turkey, China, Mexico, etc.
We are present in India for the last more than 15
years, it’s big market for us. We have local presence
in India with sales teams.

32 TVC | JULY 2022
Cover Story
Jindal’s denim business
constitutes 70%
Anubha Industries
was established
in 2012. Says Mr.
Hemendra Rawat, Head,
Domestic Marketing,
Anubha Industries: “
Pratibha Syntex is the
parent company. The same
promoters have put this
unit in Surat. It is a unique
setup where we do indigo
and dope dyed products
apart from sulphur-dyed
goods. Our gamut is totally
on the value-added side. We are catering to the mid
to premium categories of the market. Our major
markets are brands, importers and exporters. We
are more export-oriented with about 50% of the
products being exported. Hardly 20% goes to dealers
and others in the domestic market. This is a new mill
with production starting only in 2014.”
Our major share in the production goes to big
brands including Pepe, Spykar, Liva, Flying Machine,
US Polo, all the brands of Aditya Birla Group, which
covers many domestic and international brands.
Anubha Industries’ capacity is 20 lakh metres
permonth.“Wefocusondope-dyeingsincethisadds
value to the premium markets. Flasher dyeing is used
for the economical, local market,” says Mr. Rawat.
He adds: “We have plans for forward integration and
have started already a small garmenting unit. We
are making 25,000 to 30,000 pieces per month. In
garments, we may go up further. In fabrics, we have
a unique setup that can go up to 25 lakh metres. By
clicking on the right product mix, the capacity can
be raised. We are fine-tuning the marketing so that
we can be flexible by reducing the capacity during
dull demand and raising the capacity during hectic
demand. Flexibility is the hallmark of this setup.”
Talking about rising cotton price, he said that
cotton situation was very bad with price touching Rs.
1 lakh per candy. “It is on par with US cotton prices,
but earlier it was lower. Inflation is also higher now.
Cost adjustment is becoming difficult with yarn
prices also rising rapidly.”
Blends are becoming popular not only because
of cotton price rise but also because of preferences
of end-consumers. Lyocel, Modal and Tencel are
becoming popular because of soft feel. The share of
blends will certainly go up and we are also thinking
of such moves.
One of the core businesses of Jindal Worldwide, which has a denim
capacity 140 million metres per annum. “We are expanding this to
160 million metres by the end of 2022. It is a vertical segment for us
from cotton to denim, with denim forming 70% of our business,” says Mr.
Nishant Giri, Senior General Manager, Jindal Worldwide Ltd, Ahmedabad.
Export constitutes 30% in denim products of Jindal. Says Mr. Giri:
“Post-Covid the demand for denim has gone up, making industries expand
their capacities. In denim China is giving tough competition to India. A new
Anubha Industries plans more denim
garment production

33
TVC | JULY 2022
Ultra Denim exports 70-75% of
denim output
Ultra Denim Pvt Ltd is a fabric company and
Ultra Denim Lifestyle Pvt Ltd is the garment
unit. The capacity is 75,000 metres per day
of fabrics and 4,500 pieces per day of garments.
“Our clientele includes Aditya Birla Group, Shoppers
Stop, Reliance, Future Group and also some export
buyers. The commercial production began in 2015,”
says Ultra Denim, Parth Patidar, Director
Mr. Parth Says: “A total of 4 units are producing
denim. Despite raw material price rise, the market is
quite good. We use not only organic materials but
also recycled threads, and therefore sustainability is
taken care of. Since we have our unit in a Textile Park,
we have a community setup for recycling water and
we do some rain harvesting too.”
Ultra Denim’s export constitutes 70% to 75% of
its production. “Out of the 25% for local distribution,
50% is bought by brands. Overcapacity of denim is
history now but raw materials including chemicals
cost have risen rapidly.”
Our total capacity of denim is 2.2 million
meters. In the coming years, we are planning a
spinning mill. Besides, our solar power is taking
1/3rd of the needs in the day, and this capacity will
be raised to full capacity in solar power generation.
These are tapped through rooftops, and now we
plan to buy a separate space for more solar panels.
Adds Mr. Parth: “Our fabric is Oekotex-
certified. We use non-toxic auxiliaries and dyes
from well-known companies like Archroma and Atul.
There was a time when only big corporates were in
denim, now units with small capacities are coming
up. Like units with 1 million capacities are also set
up. May be there are 55 to 60 mills now producing
denim in India.”
plant has been started 32 km from Ahmedabad,
where our existing unit is located. We are adding
weaving and finishing capacity in the new unit.”
Mr. Giri adds: “Like in all textile industries, the
cotton price rise has hurt us too. The raw material
cost is very important in denim production since it
constitutes 60% of the cost. Cotton, wool and power
costs have gone up. We are having tough time but
since the demand is good, we are able to sustain in
the market.”
Talking about the company, Mr. Giri says:” We
promise good commitment and finest quality to
customers. It was not just overcapacity that denim
suffered some years ago. The industry was moving
to bottom weight category. Denim is an all-season
fabric. We are moving towards sustainability by
switching to less cotton, more harmless dyeing,
processes, etc.”

34 TVC | JULY 2022
Tencel blending goes well with denim
Tencel fibres started with top weights category
in denim initially, but now used with bottom
weights also, says Lenzing Fibres India Pvt Ltd’s,
Mr. Ganesh Kumar M (right), Business Development
Manager and Mr. Arpit Srivastava, Marketing and
Branding Manager.
“Tencel is also used more in men’s category.
The mixing of Tencel is up to 30% in men’s category.
Tencel fibres, which are mixed with any other fibres,
are being sold all over the world. In India, there are
buyers like Birlas for Liva which. is mixed with Tencel
also.”
Mr. Ganesh Kumar Says we have developed
our own Modal fibres which are dyed with dyes from
DyStar. The Indigo dope-dyed fibres are directly sold
to the denim manufacturers and the advantage
is water is not used in this dyeing. In ladies wear
also Tencel is widely used with viscose, and denim
manufacturers are quite happy with the use of
Tencel fibres in a wide range of fibres.
Vinod Denim Ltd is one of the oldest companies
in denim. Mr. Harish Arora, Marketing
Manager comes straight to the point: “Ours
is a 30-year-old company. The denim market is
booming now. Like so many others, we have also
increased the capacity to meet the rising demand.
Our current production is already booked for 2
months. Post-Covid buyers are in plenty filling the
gap created during the pandemic. Our capacity is 30
lakh meters per month. Out of this, 90% is knitted
fabrics. Since knitted fabrics have elasticity, they fit
snugly to the wearer and today’s fabrics for men and
ladies need such characteristics. Our plants are in
Ahmedabad and we plan to increase the capacity to
45 lakh metres.”
Mr. Arora Says “We are making from the basic
stage of yarn to finished fabrics in denim. About
50% of our production is exported. Many countries
including some Latin American companies are
buying our fabrics. Our plants have latest equipment
imported from Germany. This has given us an
advantage – that we have absolutely no complaints
from buyers.”
Vinod Denim raises capacity to
meet demand

35
TVC | JULY 2022
Cosmo Specialty Chemicals is India's leading texxle auxiliary manufacturer, oﬀering a
comprehensive range of texxle auxiliaries and chemicals for texxle processing to
clients worldwide.

36 TVC | JULY 2022
THE RISE OF BIOCHEMICAL
INDUSTRY IN TEXTILE
COLOURATION
Companies providing solution to textile
colouration are looking to play an active role
in reducing their carbon footprint of not only
their but also help brands and retailers to do so
by providing innovative product ranges via the bio
based and sustainable chemistry, Yogesh Gaikwad,
Director, SDC International.
As on May of 2022, the world of textile
manufacturing is going through huge challenges.
Rising cotton prices, rising coal prices, rising fuel
prices, rising inflationincluding others, for some
reasons these seem to be common across the globe.
Our dependency on fossil fuel is getting closer to
itspeak. The Ukrainian war and Covid has made
matters worst. One of the solutions emerging to help
the textile colouration world is the manufacturing
of products based on bio sources or provide newer
bio based colouration processes. The dyers and
colourists have had solution from bio sources before
but in recent times these are gathering mass.
In this article I would to talk briefly about such
solutions.
Bio based chemical are not new to textile
colourists, we have been using enzymes, printing
gums (based on tamarind and guar alsoalginates
from algae). With the uncertainty around fossil fuels
and fluctuations in prices, chemical manufacturers
are looking at nature and its waste as source of
making useful speciality chemicals. Making use of
the agents in nature to manufacture these chemicals
is a simple solution to make these speciality
chemicals, and some of the chemical manufacturers
have already done this in the past. The change is
now taking it to a new level where it can replace
traditional way of chemical manufacturing.
To start with we have now have air planes
running on fuel from non fossil fuels. The Airbus
A380 takes off with 100% sustainable aviation fuel.
“This is another great example of the aviation
industry coming together to work towards achieving
certification of 100% SAF(sustainable aviation fuel)
by 2030. Together, we’ve clearly demonstrated that
an aircraft as large as the A380 can successfully
operate on unblended SAF.”
François P findel, Airbus Head of A380 MAP
Theaboveeventmarksabigchangeinmindset
of how various industries are looking at bio-based
innovations.
The textile dyes and speciality chemicals
manufacturers are not be left behind and they did
start the journey long before. Indigo cultivation,
harvesting and extraction was very much common
in India during the colonial period and some
other parts of the world. In recent times natural
Indigo (extracted Indigo) is making a come back
and demand for them has seen a steady rise. The
change is also towards pre-dyed Indigo yarn (mainly
cellulosic).
One of the recent innovations was to make
dyesfromleavesornutshellswhichwereagricultural
waste. This did encourage many brands and
Yogesh Gaikwad
Director,
SDC International.
CHEMICAL UPDATE

37
TVC | JULY 2022
retailers to come up with separate collections using
these dyes. It worked and has a decent presence in
market. The fastness of these dyes was assumed to
be equivalent of existing sulphurdyes. The dyeing
process did not need much changes and this helped
the colourists to implement the innovation readily
There has been an outburst of bio-based
innovations. From enzymes to functional chemicals.
Bio degradable, bio-basedsolutions are finding
interest among processes.
Some innovations that may be of interest to
colourists are:
1) Wash-down effects on reactive with special
process providing similar to Indigo and Sulphur:
This process eliminates need fornot so eco-friendly
reducing agents and strong oxidizing agents for
the wash-down effects. Manufacturers claim the
process is based on biodegradable polymeric ready
to use liquor solution. The application is possible in
rope form, coating or printing.
2)Bio-based flame retardants (> 85%) for textile
applications: They are made of renewable, natural
sources and are biodegradable. These are 100%
halogen and heavy metal free. Here the challenge
is to obtain flame retardant properties in the most
natural way, to find the right balance between safety
for people and planet.
3) Softeners based on vegetable oils: Bio content of
thistechnologyismorethan85%.Themanufacturers
claim to have better durability and versatility in
application of fibres, Hemp, cotton PES and PA.
4)Moisture management:Technologies critical for
active wear are now also available in bio-based
products.Manufacturers claim “This bio-based finish
enables high wicking and evaporation capability
which helps to evaporate water/sweat easier
and faster. The technology is also > 60% (28 days)
biodegradable, according to OECD 301B.”
The list goes on& on …..
Companies providing solution to textile
colouration are looking to play an active role in
reducing their carbon footprint of not only theirs but
also help brands and retailers to do so by providing
innovative product ranges via the bio-based and
sustainable chemistry.
We are moving closer to a situation where
most speciality chemicals needed would be available
by the bio-basedroute of manufacturing. I sincerely
hope this happens soon.
May-21 May 2022
Jan - May
2021
Jan - May
2022
% Change
Staple Fibre 6.73 6.41 46.68 43.6 -6.60
Filament Yarn 12.4 11.19 56.05 61.46 9.65
Staple Fibre 7.99 4.58 36.88 28.9 -21.64
Filament Yarn 1.73 2.05 10.09 8.49 -15.86
Staple Fibre 15.78 22.86 72.86 87.97 20.74
Filament Yarn 10.41 32.83 90.02 135.65 50.69
Source: Ministry of CommerceandIndustry
IMPORTS
Commodity
POLYESTER
VISCOSE
ACRYLIC
NYLON
May-21 May-22
Jan- May
2021
Jan - May
2022
%Change
Staple Fibre 38.32 29.72 155.3 164.59 5.98
Filament Yarn 65.98 54.16 295.21 314.14 6.41
Staple Fibre 0.26 3.75 3.34 12.92 286.83
Filament Yarn 2.01 2.48 9.01 14.05 55.94
Staple Fibre 18.38 7.88 61.27 72.68 18.62
Filament Yarn 2.83 2.37 14.99 13.72 -8.47
EXPORTS
Product
POLYESTER
ACRYLIC
NYLON
VISCOSE
MMF May 2022
Unit : USD Millions

39
TVC | JULY 2022
As Managing Director, Niroj leads a global
team that is responsible for all aspects of Core
CarbonX business in the field of climate change
and sustainability advisory and asset management.
Core CarbonX also works very closely with Farmer
community to help them adopt sustainable crop
production and earn carbon revenue. Niroj has
over seventeen years of experience in developing
and financing projects in the field of climate change
mitigation/adaptation, biodiversity challenges,
natural resource management, and renewable
energy field.
Beforehiscurrentposition,NirojwasAssociate
Vice President at CantorCO2e (BGC Environmental
Brokerage Services, L.P.) managing the carbon
business for Southern India. Niroj has also held a
variety of roles during the early stage of the carbon
market at running sales, account management, and
delivery functions at PricewaterhouseCoopers and
NetPEM to name a few.
Weaving Organic
Cotton into Our
Future
All over the world, apparel brands are
incorporating organic cotton into their
creations. Demand for sustainability is being
heard everywhere - from the fashion houses of
Milan and Paris to India.The trend is growing every
year. A news report in www.globenewswire.comsays
that the market size of organic cotton will reach US$
6,730 million by 2028, with a compound annual
growth rate of 40%. This is good news for India
considering India as one of the major cotton markets
and the importance of cotton in the textile industry.
The country produces over half of the supply of
the world’s organic cotton, according to the Textile
Exchange, a global non-profit for the fibre industry.
Let’s take a closer look at the benefits,
challenges, certification and future of organic cotton.
The Advantages of Organic Cotton Production
Cotton isn’t always good for the environment.
It has sometimes been called “the world’s dirtiest
crop”. It requires plenty of water, and the use of
harmful pesticides is common.Fortunately, organic
cotton is different. Organic cotton farmers replace
harmful pesticides with those that are organically
approved. They use natural fertilisers, such as
manure. Organic cotton also does not make use
of genetically modified seeds.In organic cotton,
the entire cultivation chain is carefully monitored.
Organic farming does not deplete the soil of
nutrients and sustainability is the aim from start to
finish.Artificial substances such as formaldehyde and
chlorine are not used to process and manufacture
organic cotton. There are natural oils, starches,
bleaches and low-impact dyes at every step. This
reduces the toxic effects of conventional cotton
manufacturing.
Thus, clothing made from organic cotton is
more comfortable and durable. It is hypoallergenic,
making it especially suitable for those with sensitive
skin.According to estimates, organic cotton
production emits half the amount of carbon dioxide
compared to conventional cotton production.
For these reasons, organic cotton causes much
less damage to the planet. It is the perfect choice
for those who care about sustainable growth and
development.
The Challenges of Organic Cotton Cultivation
Niroj Mohanty,
Managing Director and CEO,
Core CarbonX Sols Pvt Ltd.
Organic Cotton

40 TVC | JULY 2022
Organic cotton cultivation and manufacturing
have many advantages. However, they also come
with challenges. For a start, farmers do not always
have access to good quality seeds suitable for
organic farming. At times, the seeds available do not
have the required approvals. Similarly, cultivators
can sometimes find it difficult to get their hands on
organic fertilisers and bio-pesticides.
Since organic cotton requires a different
mindset and process, farmers need to be re-skilled
and trained in its cultivation. These skills include
using natural fertiliser options and creating a healthy
soil balance. Another aspect is the art of keeping
pests under control instead of destroying them with
the use of chemicals.
These challenges are not insurmountable.
Farmers’ associations can collaborate with
environmental bodies. Terms of microcredit can
be arranged. There can be market interventions
to make organic cotton yields more attractive.
In short, inputs and facilities can be made more
readily available, and the benefits of soil health
can be properly communicated.The government’s
National Programme for Organic Production aims to
provide an accreditation framework for consumers,
producers, processors and traders all over the
country. The sector can soon realise its full potential
with these and other constructive steps.
The Importance of Genuine Certification
Proper labelling and certification are essential
for organic cotton to be sold with credibility. This
is the aim of the Global Organic Textiles Standard
(GOTS).GOTSistheglobalstandardfororganicfibres.
Some examples of certified products are fibre, yarns,
fabrics, clothes and mattresses.Before products can
be GOTS certified, all processes and activities in the
chain need to undergo a periodic on-site inspection.
Processors and manufacturers can export fabrics
and garments accepted in major markets with a
common standard. Consumers can select organic
cotton products with confidence.Another accepted
standard is Organic Content Standards (OCS). In this
case, the organic fibre percentage in a product is
tracked throughout the supply chain. However, OCS
does not cover processing.
In India, state governments are responsible
for all types of cotton production. This includes
organic cotton. In 2020, to overcome challenges
and concerns, the Agricultural and Processed Food
Products Export Development Authority (APEDA)
directed the Ministry of Textiles to develop and
launch a Standard for Chain of Custody for Indian
Organic Fibres and Products. At present, this is
voluntary under the National Programme for Organic
Production (NPOP). It certifies fibres from farm to
made-ups.
India has over 5,000 GOTS-certified facilities.
This is the highest number in the world. After recent
reports of faulty certification leading to fake organic
cotton products, a thorough audit was conducted
by GOTS. It cancelled all wrongly issued transaction
certificates. A revised system for raw material
checks and reviews of certification bodies is being
developed.
The Future of Organic Cotton in India
Rising production and increasing growth mark
the outlook for organic cotton in India. Stricter
norms for organic cotton cultivation and processing
have instilled renewed confidence in quality.Many
organisations and industry experts are helping
to streamline the supply chain. These activities
will create favourable conditions for buyers and
suppliers to promote the industry. A body called
the Organic Cotton Accelerator (OCA) is boosting
farmer prosperity and creating a transparent and
responsible supply chain.
The current production of organic cotton
in India is 1.23 million tonnes. Madhya Pradesh
and Odisha are among the States with Others that
showed growth are Maharashtra, Gujarat and
Rajasthan. In the last five years, these states have
produced 99% of the total cotton production in
India.Another indication of bright prospects is that
the Indian Council of Agricultural Research with
associated bodies have released 64 non-GM cotton
varieties and hybrids from 2017 to 2021. Organic
cotton growers can adopt these varieties. More than
6.5 million cotton farmers are directly cultivating the
crop. There are approximately 10.5 million workers
in allied sectors.
Environmentally-friendly production systems
drive best practices across the entire textile industry.
Organic cotton has the potential to transform
farming communities, improve livelihoods and
reduce climate change. It minimises pollution and
poverty, and it is better for people and the planet.

42 TVC | JULY 2022
Abstract
Currently, all denim is made out of cotton
fibres or blends with high cotton content using a twill
weave. However, denim has a poor environmental
balance sheet, which starts with the planting of the
cotton needed for it and continues with the high
water consumption and use of chemicals.Therefore,
in order to reduce the emissions caused by these,
possible alternatives are being sought. A possible
alternative, which is considered in this paper, is the
use of hemp fibres to substitute cotton. Various
aspects such as the cultivability, producibility and
processability of hemp yarns are considered here.
The results show that hemp can be grown and
processed locally very well.Unfortunately,some
further research and development is required for
pure hemp fibres processing on a rotor spinning
machine in a process-stable manner. Based on
this, recommendations are given on how rotor
spinning machines can be adapted constructively to
overcome this deficit.
Introduction
The role of climate change and thus a
sustainable world is becoming increasingly
important. In 2012, the members of the United
Nations set 17 goals to create a more socially and
ecologically sustainable world. One of these goals
is “Responsible Consumption and Production”.
Relevant here are not only environmentally friendly
end products, but transparent and sustainable
processes throughout the entire product creation
process. [UN15] Natural fibres are thus becoming
increasinglyimportantbothintheclothingsectorand
for technical textiles. Up to now, cotton has made up
by far the largest share of natural yarns produced. In
jeans production in particular, it becomes clear how
much need there is for improvement with regard to
sustainability aspects. Not only the very high water
consumption, the use of chemicals for cultivation
and dyeing but also the long supply chains with their
ecological impacts [Opp14].
Therefore, this paper focuses on the
consideration of more sustainable alternatives in
jeans production. For this purpose, the usability
of hemp is looked at on different levels. First, the
properties of the fibres themselves are discussed
and later the technical feasibility of producing yarns.
For this purpose, the production with the help of
the rotor spinning process is examined more closely.
Rotor spinning was chosen in a project for producing
technical textiles because of its fabric resistance and
yarn propertiesas well as the productivity compared
to ring spinning. It turned out, that with minor
developments and changes in the rotor spinning
machine, a fine Ne 20 yarn was producible which
is suitable for denim use as well. Rotor spinning
without any additional changes however is currently
not yet possible with 100% hemp but only with the
addition of cotton. Mostly, between 50 to 70 %of
cotton are added. Based on this, target values are
defined that should enable the production of hemp
yarns. Finally, statements are made about the extent
to which production is possible with the help of
changes to construction-specific aspects.
review paper
Further improvements in rotor
spinning and denim out of Hemp
Justin Kuehn Lukas Lechthaler Thomas Gries
Maria Shirov_
Michna
Seyit Halac
( Institut für Textiltechnik of RWTH Aachen University)
Kira Hirschberger

43
TVC | JULY 2022
State of the art
Fibres
As mentioned, jeans production is mainly
based on cotton. In terms of sustainability, however,
cotton has disadvantages compared to other
natural fibres. The plant is demanding, it needs
warm temperatures without sudden temperature
transitions. At the same time, cotton plants have a
high water requirement of 1214 l per kg in average
[BCE19]. Cultivation mainly takes place in tropical
and subtropical areas [Hor20]. Hemp, on the other
hand, can be grown locally everywhere, which is
particularly attractive for the European market. This
means that long, CO2-intensive routes, for example,
can be avoided.Additionally, cotonised hemp fibres
have fineness, softness and spinning properties that
are close to those of cotton. Here, important factors
in fibre preparation are retting and subsequent
mechanical preparation.
As a domestic alternative, hemp is accordingly
gaining increasing attention in Europe. The needs of
the hemp plant are predestined for the European
region. Moreover, hemp is much less demanding to
grow than cotton. The plant is very robust against
pests, which is why neither pesticides nor herbicides
are needed. Furthermore, hemp in general requires
no artificial irrigation. With sufficiently good
processing,hempfibresofferapplicationpossibilities
in various textile sectors. High absorbency and good
thermal conductivity make hemp interesting for the
clothing sector and thus also for jeans production.
This shall lead to a cooling effect while wearing.
The high fineness-related strength namely offers
opportunities for home textiles as well as technical
textiles. Due to their weather resistance, the fibres
can also be used in areas where synthetic fibres
currently dominate. [CGP+08, KRM20]
Since jeans are not only made of cotton but
also of synthetic fibres, this is another argument
for the use of hemp in the production of textiles. In
addition, hemp has other advantages, such as the
fact that it is very prolific and covers all weeds, and
that it absorbs a lot of CO2 as an C3 crop. Thus, the
sustainability aspect is once again emphasised, as
the plant does not only save CO2 due to logistical
circumstances, but because of characteristics such
as water consumption and CO2 absorption. [Nov01]
Production
The use of hemp fibres as an ecological and
cheap alternative in the textile industry is currently
facing two primary challenges. On the one hand, the
processing methods used in the industry for hemp
fibres involve ecologically questionable processes
and are too expensive in the given quantities for
successful marketing of the material, and on the
other hand, the spinning processes used for hemp
fibres are not competitive due to low product
diversity and number of buyers.
The rotor spinning (cf. Figure 1) process is
adopted for the production of hemp yarns. However,
the processing of hemp is made more difficult by
the physical properties of the fibres, as on the one
hand they have a high bending stiffness compared to
cotton, which makes the initiation of the twist more
difficult, and on the other hand dust is produced
during processing, which is deposited in the rotor
groove and strongly influences the spinning stability
in the long run.
Figure 1: SpinBox SE10 of Suessen GmbH;
open cover (left) and closed cover (right)

Textile Value Chain- July 2022

Textile Value Chain- July 2022

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