MARCH 2016 ISSUE

www.textilevaluechain.com
TE TILEX
VALUE CHAIN
March 2016 | Volume 4 | Issue 3| Pages 56
Registered with Registrar of Newspapers under | RNI NO: MAHENG/2012/43707
Postal Registration No. MNE/346/2015-17 published on 5th of every month,TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN posted at Mumbai
Patrika Channel Sorting Office,Pantnagar- 75, posting date 17/18 of month
Budget for
R&D / Innova on is
must for industry…
Technical Research Papers

4 March 2016www.textilevaluechain.com
EDITORIAL
Ms. Jigna Shah
Editor & Publisher
All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of
any of the content from this issue is prohibited
without explicit written permission of the
publisher. Every effort has been made to ensure
and present factual and accurate information.
The views expressed in the articles published in
this magazine are that of the respective authors
and not necessarily that of the publisher. Textile
Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely
errors that might occur or any steps taken
based in the information provided herewith.
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Editor
Ms. Jigna Shah
Printed & Processed by her at,
Impression Graphics,
Gala no.13, Shivai Industrial Estate,
Andheri Kurla Road,
Sakinaka, Andheri (East),
Mumbai 400072,
Maharashtra, India.
This is the season of Financial closing, industry busy in adjusting their accounts ie. Profile v/s Loss, Sales V/s Ex-
penses etc. India Incorporation also done same and presented their next financial budget 2016-17 on last day of
February 2016. India Incorporation CEO Mr. Narendra Modi and CFO Mr. Arun Jaitley, presented well drafted budget.
Their team focused on priority sectors with the Vision based on consumerism or consumption economy, which is
root of any development. Kudos for India Inc. leaders..!!! Kindly go through brief report which is presented inside.
“Textile Friends Group” met with Textile commissioner Dr. Kavita Gupta & informed about the informal study /
activities going on within the industry for development & growth of industry. She had given few sectors in which
textile ministry is focusing as of now. They are as follows:
1- Looking for energy saving devices & machinery
2- Solar panels for power loom, group work sheds, textile parks.
3- Skill development scheme should be initiative by corporate companies & absorb people in their units.
4- Technical textile for Geo & Agro textiles
5- Research and development Funds
I would like to touch base upon R & D. In Textiles Research starts from Fibers and ends with Fashion Forecast /
Retail Window display. Research, whether it’s Technical or Market both are necessary & need of an Indian industry
today. But sad part is that we Indians don’t want to do research but wants to copy. In each value chain sector, we
request industry contributors allocate some funds to innovation & research to lead in world market or else we will
be copy master always, which is degrading Indian image of rich culture & heritage.
This issue we presented 3 important technical research papers from Industry ie from Birla Cellulose, RSWM, tex-
tile Committee. Kind requests you to go through and send your feedback.
Hope your next budget has funds for research & Innovation…!! Start small but steadily grow budget in research
department. Wishing you Fruitful & Growing financial year 2016-17…!!!
“Nobody is here to fulfill your dream. Everybody is here to fulfill his own destiny, his own reality…!”
Budget for R&D / Innovation is must for industry…

EDITORIAL TEAM
Editor & Publisher
Ms. Jigna Shah
Editorial Advisor
Shri V.Y. Tamhane
Consulting Editor
Mr. Avinash Mayekar
Graphic Designer
Mr. Anant A. Jogale
INDUSTRY
Mr. Devchand Chheda
City Editor - Vyapar ( Janmabhumi Group)
Mr. Manohar Samuel
President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries
Dr. M. K. Talukdar
VP, Kusumgar Corporates
Mr. Shailendra Pandey
VP (Head – Sales and Marketing), Indian Rayon
Mr. Ajay Sharma
GM RSWM (LNJ Bhilwara Group)
EDUCATION / RESEARCH
Mr. B.V. Doctor
HOD knitting, SASMIRA
Dr. Ela Dedhia
Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College
Dr. Mangesh D. Teli
Professor, Dean ICT
Dr. S.K. Chattopadhyay
Principal Scientist & Head MPD
Dr. Rajan Nachane
Retired Scientist, CIRCOT
CONSULTANT / ASSOCIATION
Mr. Shivram Krishnan
Senior Textile Advisor
Mr. G. Benerjee
Management & Industrial Consultant
Mr. Uttam Jain
Director PDEXCIL; VP of Hindustan Chamber of Commerce
Mr. Shiv Kanodia
Sec General, Bharat Merchant Chamber
Mr. N.D. Mhatre
Dy. Director, ITAMMA
March 2016 ISSUE
CONTENT
Advertiser Index
NEWS
11- AEPC & ATDC
12- Arvind & Colorjet
13-ITMF & SIMA
14- APSOM & Thredsol
21- EDANA- Outlook Asia Award
24- Kornit Digital
27- ITAMMA ( Condolence )
BUDGET
15- Highlights
16- Budget Reactions
COVER STORY : Research on Fibers
17- Comparative study of Viscose Filament/modal and Cuprammo-
nium Rayon /modal Woven printed fabrics by TRADC Scientist
19- Effect On Process Of 100% Polyester Staple Fibre on Rotor Spin-
ning With respect To Polyester Fibre and Spin finish by RSWM
ARTICLES
22- HR FOCUS: Recruitment trends in Spinning industry by Mr.
Saurabh Agarwal
23- FABRIC FOCUS: Fabric Innovations: Category Evolution perspec-
tive by Mr. Vishnu Govind
25- Brand Equity: Power of Brands By Mr. Rushin
26- Technical Textile : Disposable textiles by Mr. Avinash Mayekar
28- Linking Indication to development through GI by Mr. T.K. Rout
POST EVENT REPORT
33- Make in India
34-IPTEX 16
36- TAI on ITMA 2015
37- CMAI on excise duty
MARKET REPORT
37- Cotton Report
40- Synthetic Yarn Report
39- Surat Report
42- Malegaon Report
COMPANY KNOW HOW
43- Taiwan Textile in Technotex
44- Rieter
45- DTC Printer
46- SHOW CALENDAR
Back Page : Raymond
Back Inside : Liva
Front Inside : BSL suiting
Page 3-Vardhman Textiles
Page 5- SGS Innovations
Page 7- RIETER
Page 8- TECHNOTEX
Page 9- RABATEX
Page 10 - Jinjiang Fair
Page 47- Amarjothi & TVC
Page 48- Dynamic Autolooms
Page 49-SITEX
Page 50- Sanjay Platics
Page 51- Taiwan @ Technotex
Page 52- Texfair
Page 53- RSWM

www.rieter.com
EVEREADY
Spinning Mills Pvt. Ltd., Kottaiyur, Thadicombu – ��
Dindigul, Tamilnadu, India
info@evereadygroups.com
www.evereadymills.com
Rieter
Com�® Yarns –
Yarns of Choice
Com4® yarns from Rieter spinning
machines fulfill the most exacting
requirements. Excellent properties
ensure competitiveness in a dyna-
mic market. The benefits are also
visible in downstream processing
and in the final product.
EVEREADY
A Rieter Com�®ring licensee in India
Mr. S. Saravanakumar, Managing Director,
Eveready Spinning Mills Pvt. Ltd.
Eveready Spinning Mills Private Limited was
established in the year ��. The group now
operates four spinning mills located within a
� km radius. The currently installed capacity
of the group exceeds �� spindles, � ��
rotors and �� high-speed automatic circular
knittingmachines.Ithasaproductioncapacity
of �� million kilograms of yarn per year.
The total turnover of the group is US� �� mil-
lion. Quality is an important topic within the
company. The group is ISO ��:�� certi-
fied by UKAS Quality Management System. In
addition, certification for “Usterized Yarn” has
been recommended.
“My customers place repeat
orders – Com4®ring yarn gives
them confidence in respect of
lower variation in yarn quality
to produce consistent quality
fabrics.”
– rotor-spun yarn
– ring-spun yarn
– compacted ring-spun yarn
– air-jet-spun yarn

11March 2016 www.textilevaluechain.com
Ready-Made Garments Sec‐
tor Gets a Breather Amid
EU’s Tariff Suspension
• The Indian Ready-Made Garment Sec-
tor continues to enjoy 20% tariff preference
for the next three years from 2017-19
• With China being removed from the
list of beneficiaries; the Indian Products
with duty preference will definitively have
an edge in the European market.
• The exports to EU in RMG sector from
India is 36% of the total exports of RMG
The European Union recently an-
nounced its scheme of generalized tariff
preferences for the next three years from
2017-19. Indian Ready Made Garments sec-
tor continues to enjoy its position of being a
beneficiary under the current scheme which
has affected the textile sector through re-
moval of this tariff preference. Section 11
(b) of the EU GSP provides for trade pref-
erences for the Ready-Made Garments sec-
tor. As of now the trade preferences which
India enjoys with the EU, under the Gener-
alized Scheme of Preferences was coming
to an end on December 31, 2016, has been
extended for a period of three years from
2017-19. Under this extension India’s RMG
sector will continue to get 20% tariff prefer-
ence on exports to EU for three consecutive
years. RMG sector will be highly benefited
from this extension of trade preferences.
The removal of textile sector comes in
the wake of export of more than the allot-
ted 14.5% of the threshold. AEPC, the apex
body of apparel exporters expressed its
happiness at the continuation of the 20%
tariff preference to Indian imports. China
has been removed from the list of benefi-
ciaries.
Mr. Ashok G Rajani, Chairman AEPC said
that, “Our endeavor now is signing of FTA
with EU as early as possible.”
ATDC honoured with ‘Best
Vocational Training Provid‐
er (VTP) Training 2016’ by
ASSOCHAM
Apparel Training & Design Centre
(ATDC), India’s Largest Quality Vocational
Training Provider for the Apparel Industry
was awarded ‘Best Vocational Training Pro-
vider (VTP) Training 2016’ by “Associated
Chambers of Commerce and Industry of
India” (ASSOCHAM) at ‘Award-cum-summit
’Skilling India’: The Way Forward” on March
15 at a function held in Shangri-La Hotel,
New Delhi. The award was conferred by Sri.
Rajiv Pratap Rudy, Hono’ble Minister, Min-
istry of Skill Development & Employment,
GOI . Dr. Darlie Koshy, DG&CEO-ATDC&IAM,
received the award on behalf of ATDC on
15th March 2016. Sri. G. S. Madan, VC, ATDC
was also present at the occasion. The other
dignitaries present at the event were Shri
Jayant Krishna, CEO, National Skill Develop-
ment Corporation, Shri Sunil Kanoria, Presi-
dent, ASSOCHAM, Shri Rohit Nandan, IAS,
Secretary, Minister of Skill Development
and Entrepreneurship and Prof. SK Mehro-
tra, JNU.
ATDC has been selected for this award
for its contribution to large scale quality
skilling of Indian youth specially women in
rural/ mofussils and semi urban areas for
meeting the rapidly changing skill require-
ments of Apparel Sector with real time In-
dustry relevant skill modules & new learning
solutions, thus providing wage employ-
ment for youth specially women having
dedicated verticals to work with Ministry
of Textiles, GOI (for ISDS Project), DGE&T
(Ministry of Skill Development & Entrepre-
neurship, GOI) (for Longer Duration Voca-
tional Courses) and AICTE (Ministry of HRD,
GOI) & RGNIYD (Ministry of Youth Affairs
& Sports, GOI) (for B. Voc. Courses). While
exporters require cycle & through put time
to be brought down in the context of ‘Fast-
Fashions’ approach gaining ground world-
over, the domestic sector wants “Product
Lifecycle Management” ‘fast-turnaround
of store merchandising’, captivating visuals
etc. The e-commerce/m-commerce wants
fashion to meet instant gratification stand-
ard with supply chain-logistic management.
ATDC is the largest vocational training pro-
vider for the textile-apparel chain offering
a comprehensive bouquet of courses for
‘career’ progression in an integrated man-
ner by creating a “step ladder-training eco-
system” with clear focus on “Skilling of as-
pirational Indian youth”.
Sri. Rajiv Pratap Rudy, Hono’ble Min-
ister, Ministry of Skill Development & Em-
ployment, GOI said “We always talk about
doctors, engineers, professors and other
professionals but we hardly talk about
skills. The world skill was never part of our
system. Our Prime Minister Shri Narendra
Modi understood the importance of skill de-
velopment and created Skill Development
Ministry. There was a need to create this
ministry, we talk about convergence, glo-
balization, training, identifying talent but
what in particular is there which is different,
it is the skills. For years we have only spoken
about education and being educated being
skilled was never our priority. I congratulate
all of you who have been working towards
Skilling India and giving direction to the
youth of the country”
“ATDC heralded the large scale quality
skill training in Apparel sector on a Pan-India
basis, since 2010 by creating a new model
for training infrastructure, curricula and a
youthful brand. ATDC Team is proud to re-
ceive this award after training over 1,60,000
candidates in short term and nearly 40,000
candidates in longer duration programmes
through about 176 centres Pan-India in last
5 years exceed over 2 lakhs candidates. The
award is yet another important milestone in
our journey of ‘Upskilling, Reskilling, News-
killing’ of youth and women which ATDC has
undertaken over the last 5-6 years on Pan-
India basis. ATDC further through an “in-
tegrated step-ladder eco system” for skill
training in downstream apparel sector en-
sures employment of youth and empower-
ment of women creating multiplier effect in
rural economy while providing professional
workforce at different levels to widely dis-
persed apparel manufacturing
clusters. B. Voc. is dedicated to
the aspirational youth of India
who can choose to grow as the
opportunities come by meeting
them with matching skills and
competencies” Dr. Darlie Ko-
shy, DG & CEO-ATDC& IAM.
ATDC has been recog-
nised earlier nationally for its
innovative training initiatives
like creation of brand ‘SMART’
(Skills for Manufacturing of Ap-
parel through Research & Train-
NEWS

ing), Launch of ATDC-JUKI Tech Innovation
Centre, ‘Product Specialty Centres’, denovo
approach es such as Simulated Produc-
tion Environment, State-of-the-Art Infra-
structure, SMART Trainee Kits, Training of
Trainers Academies for Continuous upgra-
dation. Today, ATDC is a largest vocational
training provider for the apparel sector in
the country with about 176 ATDCs includ-
ing 65 ATDC Vocational Institutes, about
115 ATDC-SMART Centres offering state-of
the- art vocational programmes being the
single largest training provider for any voca-
tional trade in India. ATDC has also received
the ‘Best Training Institution-National’ by
Education Award (Franchise India) & ASSO-
CHAM Award for ‘Best Institute: Innovation
2015’ and is a proud recipient of UK-India
Skill Forum Award in 2011 as well.
Speaking on the occasion Sri. G. S.
Madan, VC, ATDC said “I would like to thank
“ASSOCHAM” for conferring this ‘Best Vo-
cational Training Provider (VTP) Training
2016’ award to ATDC for its pioneering &
singular achievements and congratulate
Team ATDC for working tirelessly towards
ATDC’s vision of “Imparting Skills, Improv-
ing Lives .”
ARVIND to “RELOAD”the
Indian Stretch Denims
Arvind with its belief in design, innova-
tion and sustainabilityhas delivered many
firsts in denim, enabling brands to bring
differentiated products for their respective
discerning customers. This is happening yet
again with the denim expert to reloadthe
Denim Market of India with some energiz-
ing concepts with their festive 2016 collec-
tion – RELOAD .
Arvind showcases its Stretch Denim
Powered by LYCRA® in an exclusive event
at The Lalit, Mumbai for Festive 2016 for the
Indian market.The festive 2016 denim col-
lection has latest in denim innovations from
Arvind with inventive concepts of Mutant
Denim, Denim Structures, Neo Denim, Neo
Cord, Neo Bubble and Boomerang Denim.
All the concepts have stretches powered by
LYCRA® fiber. The denim products in each
of these concepts are styled thematically
and washed in best of laundries across the
world. These products are displayed cat-
egory wise andshowcased in an exclusive
runway show choreographed by Prasad Bi-
dapa.
During this event Arvind continues
with the brand promise to its trade part-
ners through the “Arvind Stretch Denim
powered by LYCRA®” hangtag. This is pro-
vided proportionately with all Arvind denim
fabrics. The brand and the garment manu-
facturer are already using these on each
of their denim garments made by Arvind
Stretch Denim powered by LYCRA®. This
enablesto communicate the brand essence
to end consumers makingit stand apart in
the crowd providing a heartfelt assurance
to the end consumer.
Brief discussion with Mr. Amir Akhtar,
CEO of Arvind Denim, he does not feel that
there is any downfall in denim consumption,
though there is many alternative fabrics,
garments taken place in women’s wardrobe
apart from denim. Old fashion denim with-
out stretch no more in use, consumer wants
stretch fabrics.
Denim is forever fashion, it will never
be FAD. We are fabric manufacturer who is
supplying to all major Indian & International
brands. All brands need variety in fabrics, so
we tie up with another international brand
for our sourcing requirement of fiber.
ColorJet to launch high
speed industrial grade digi‐
tal textile printer Metro at
GARFAB
y METRO is a versatile technologically ad-
vanced printer & gives the best ROI and
scalability for a, forever growing busi-
ness
y Operates at a maximum speed of 362
sq. meters per hour and delivers daily
production of 8,000 sq. meters.
y Demonstration with 8 colour disperse
inks
After receiving good reviews and orders
at ITMA 2015, ColorJet Group, India’s largest
manufacturer of digital printing machines
is now introducing the METRO at GARFAB
2016 to be held from March 18-20, 2016 at
Surat International Exhibition & Convention
Centre, Surat in Stall B-8.
The METRO is a truly advanced high
speed industrial grade digital textile printer,
which fantastically incorporates the latest
technology and efficient engineering to
meet ever growing demands. It operates
at a maximum speed of 362 sq. metres per
hour
The high speed is achieved through spe-
cially designed jetting controls to optimise
print heads performance, to match the high
jetting frequency and the mechanical struc-
ture is designed to handle high speeds and
precise dot placements
Compatible to work with all types of
inks like reactive acid disperse and pigment,
this printer weaves magic on a variety of
fabrics. Be it any kind of fabric, ranging from
0.1mm to 30mm including cotton, polyes-
ter, silk, viscose, wool, nylon, acetate and
various blended fabrics can be printed on
the METRO.
With awesome scalable properties, this
printer can suit all the needs of the textile
printing business and delivers in the least
payback period. It is equipped with a heater
and feeder is capable of meeting the ever
changing requirements of the fabric print-
ing industry.
At GARFAB, visitors will be able to wit-
ness how the METRO has been synchro-
nised and engineered specifically to pro-
duce the best results with pigment inks.
Its unique value proposition for customers
is the synchronised technology to ensure
smooth firing of jetting assembly for faster
and smoother productions with pigment
inks.
Automatic temperature control enables
printheads to deliver same print results
with Pigment inks, while specially integrat-
ed VPC technology ensures smooth flow
of pigment ink for uninterrupted produc-
tion runs, while delivering excellent quality
prints by virtue of the eight colour inks with-
out compromising on the speed.
Alongside, Colorjet Group will also be
showcasing its bestselling VASTRAJET; a
commercial grade digital textile printer of-
fering production speeds of 4,000 metres
per day and thereby meets the normal daily
requirements of a textile printing house,
while being suitable for natural as well
as polyester based fabrics like georgette,
moss crepe, weightless, chiffon, etc.
“We have chosen GARFAB 2016 for the
NEWS

launch of the METRO, since Surat is the tex-
tile capital of India as it contributes 40 per-
cent of man-made fabric production in India
and at the same time, we also have the high-
est number of installations in this textile
hub,” Mr. Smarth Bansal, Brand Manager at
ColorJet said.
“Apart from the price being very com-
petitive, since our digital textile printers are
manufactured at a state-of-the-art manu-
facturing facility in India itself, buyers of our
machines are eligible for various subsidies
and benefits offered by the Government
of India under EPCG & TUF schemes,” Mr.
Bansal added.
Instrument Recognition
The ITMF International Committee on
Cotton Testing Methods (ICCTM) met in
Bremen, Germany on March 15, 2016. Four
companies from Germany, India, Italy,
Switzerland and a research organization in
Australia each made presentations on de-
velopments in instruments to assess cotton
quality parameters for “Recognition” by
the ICCTM.
Textechno, a German firm, demonstrat-
ed the capabilities of a new instrument for
detecting, counting and classifying neps
and trash in samples of cotton and cotton
sliver.
MAG, an Indian company, discussed re-
cent engineering advances in trash-testing
technology.
Mesdan, an Italian firm, and Loepfe, a
company in Switzerland, explained the engi-
neering principles behind new instruments
developed jointly by the two companies to
test cotton and cotton sliver for stickiness
and other parameters.
CSIRO, an Australian research organiza-
tion, requested “Recognition” for an instru-
ment to test cotton fibers for maturity. Cot-
tonscope has been developed over several
years by engineers at CSIRO to make direct
measurements of fiber maturity using im-
age analysis of cross sections of fibers.
Advances in the basic science of meas-
uring cotton fiber maturity are yielding the
potential for creating better calibration
materials for commercial measurement.
Improvements in maturity measurements
have produced relatively slow methods that
are still very useful as tools for cotton breed-
ers as they move forward with creating the
cotton fibers of the future. However, faster
maturity measurements currently in use in
mill laboratories will benefit from these im-
proved maturity reference measurements
as existing instrumentation is upgraded.
A core function of the ICCTM is to review
applications from instrument manufactur-
ers for “Recognition” of instruments as be-
ing sufficiently accurate, precise, and with
results that are sufficiently repeatable so as
to be commercially relevant to the cotton
and cotton textile industries. Members of
the ICCTM include engineers and scientists
from around the world conducting research
on cotton quality evaluation in six task force
groups: HVI, elongation, stickiness, maturi-
ty, neps/trash, and color. The ICCTM meets
every two years at the beginning of each In-
ternational Cotton Conference Bremen.
Basic Science
The ITMF International Committee on
Cotton Testing Methods (ICCTM) met in
Bremen, Germany on March 15, 2016 to re-
view latest developments in cotton fiber
testing and to set priorities for research
over the next two years. Major results of
the meeting are:
High volume cotton testing continues
to progress, particularly for instrumenta-
tion suited for spinning mill applications. As
breeding programs and the use of cotton
hybrids result in improvements in the in-
trinsic technical performance properties of
cotton fiber, more attention is being paid to
the range and types of calibration cottons
used with HVI. The ICCTM discussed pro-
cedures to ensure that calibration cottons
used in testing different cotton species pro-
vide adequate ranges of fiber properties so
as to provide reliable measurements.
Fiber elongation as a cotton property is
gaining renewed interest as modern high-
speed yarn production systems demand a
combinationofbothfiberstrengthandelon-
gation to operate efficiently and to produce
yarn properties needed in markets today.
New elongation measurement algorithms
have been developed and are being tested.
Comparative studies to ensure that multiple
test instruments give the same measure-
ment level are underway. Methodologies to
improve elongation measurement and se-
lection criteria for cotton breeders continue
to be emphasized.
With the availability of very high speed
computer technology, the use of imaging
for measuring cotton trash and extraneous
matter, both in cotton classing and in mill
laboratories, is moving forward. Presenta-
tions on both classing applications and mill
laboratory applications that use modern im-
aging technology were offered.
Additional information are available
from www.ITMF.org.
SIMA appeals Finance
Minister for allocation of
Rs.5,500 crores for TUFS
The Indian textile industry has been fac-
ing a long drawn recession since April 2014
owing to global economic slowdown and
higher tariff imposed on Indian textiles and
clothing products in all the major textile
markets when compared to its competing
Nations like Pakistan, Bangladesh, Vietnam,
Turkey, Cambodia, etc. Realizing the need
for enhancing the competitiveness, the
Union Government had extended 2% MEIS
benefit and 3% IES benefit for all textile
products other than cotton yarn. The spin-
ning sector has appealed to the govern-
ment to extend the export benefits for
cotton yarn, also as the sector is the worst
affected due to surplus capacities.
The Cabinet Committee has al-
ready approved extending the TUF scheme
for the entire 13th five year plant period
and also approved allocation of Rs.17,822
crores to meet the committed liabilities of
the scheme under pipelines and also the
ongoing schemes and also the new scheme.
Under the Amended TUF Scheme, the spin-
ning sector has been excluded while 15%
capital subsidy has been extended for gar-
ments and technical textiles and 10% capital
subsidy for weaving and processing sectors.
The interest subsidies ranging from 2% to 6%
extended under earlier scheme has been
discontinued.
In a press release issued here to-
day, Mr.M.Senthilkumar, Chairman, The
Southern India Mills’ Association (SIMA)
has appealed to the Hon’ble Union Finance
Minister, vide a representation sent today,
to allocate adequate funds for clearing TUF
subsidy backlog since September 2014. He
has said that as the subsidy is pending for
more than one and half years, the working
capital has been totally eroded and most of
the spinning mills are incurring cash losses
due to glut in the market.
SIMA chief pointed out that Union
Budget 2016-17 has allocated only Rs.1480
crores for TUFS as against the actual re-
quirement of around Rs.7000 crores. There-
fore, he appealed to the Hon’ble Minister to
allocate the balance fund of around Rs.5500
crores to meet the liabilities of backlog pe-
riod and also to meet the liabilities up to
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31st March 2017. He has added that several
hundreds of textile units are likely to be-
come NPAs as the TUF subsidy has not been
released on time. He has appealed to the
Union Finance Ministry to allot the required
funds immediately to prevent the textile
units becoming NPAs.
Transmatic SRL & Apsom
Infotex Limited To Launch
TRANSMATIC 7360 SPORT
At Garfab-TX 2016 In Surat
Apsom Infotex Ltd unveils a new inno-
vation in the Digital printer domain: Launch
of the TRANS 7360 SPORT; an oil based
Calender for the Indian subcontinent at
the upcoming Garfab-TX Surat. Garfab-TX
is a three day event will be held from 18th
March to 20th March 2016 at the Surat In-
ternational Exhibition & Convention Centre
in Surat, India, where potential buyers will
witness the complete sublimation solution
offered by Apsom: A Super fast Sublimation
Printer Roland XT – 640 coupled with The
Transmatic 7360 SPORT.
An oil calendar which is specially de-
signed to meet the increasing demand for
inkjet Dye – Sublimation transfer technolo-
gy. After printing on paper, users can trans-
fer to knit, synthetic fabrics and other fab-
rics such as polyester, nylon and acrylic - the
TRANS 7360 SPORT is the next big thing to
make its entry in the digital print industry.
In the case of printing directly onto cloth by
means of digital printers it is also suitable
for fixing the colour pigments perfectly at
low cost and mean to give great returns.
The printer shows umpteen capabilities
to ease the strenuous effort of traditional
printing methods, with its digitally con-
trolled adjustable speed and intelligent fea-
tures like automatic machine turn off once it
reaches a temperature of 110° C, this printer
works like a sheer genius.
TRANS 7360 SPORT has a new system
of heating oil that ensures a uniform tem-
perature distribution over the entire length
of the cylinder with a minimum consump-
tion of energy. The heating systems oil that
the printer consumes is 50% less energy of
electric machines.
The exhibition will also showcase the
Texart XT-640 dye-sublimation transfer
printer, which is one of Roland’s latest edi-
tion to the Indian market. The Texart XT-640
is a unique dye-sublimation transfer printer
designed for the textile printing industry. It
offers a wide range of textile applications
including sports merchandising, fashion
apparel, soft signs (polyester banners and
flags), home furnishing interior décor, pro-
motional items and personalized gifts.
With a goal to offer print businesses
outstanding productivity and image qual-
ity, Apsom will exhibit the leading innova-
tion TRANS 7360 SPORT and Texart XT-640,
which boast inherent safety and eco-friend-
ly features, to add value for users that work
in the print world and sublimation market.
Available from Apsom Infotex Ltd in India,
the two printers are on display throughout
the event.
ThreadSol at Saigon Tex
Vietnam 2016
The pioneer in enterprise material man-
agement solutions is coming to Vietnam to
display its marvellous solutions for Vietnam
apparel industry
ThreadSol is pleased to announce its
presence at Saigon Tex 2016, opening on
30th March in Vietnam. The ThreadSol ex-
hibit will be located at Hall B3, Booth 23 of
the Saigon Exhibition and Convention Cent-
er (SECC).
ThreadSol will present its strategic vi-
sion for the Vietnam apparel industry during
the Saigon Tex exhibition. “The challenges
manufacturers possess in context of eco-
nomic slowdown and rising wages can be
neutralized by the unseen opportunities of
material saving”, explains ManasijGanguli,
CEO at ThreadSol.
ThreadSol’s outlook is to introduce
technologically driven products to drive
manufacturing by targeting material cost.
This is to differentiate manufacturers from
the extremely competitive environment
for breakthrough profits and improved cus-
tomer service. “It is high time apparel man-
ufacturers realize the gravity of targeting
fabric cost to increase profits.
If they want to stay competi-
tive, they need to achieve this
through automation of pro-
cesses by adopting advanced
solutions”, Manasij further
adds.
“We see Vietnam aiming
to reach $40 million in apparel
exports in the next 5 years.
This is a very critical juncture
where material costs need to
be lowered to increase prof-
its, especially with brands
squeezing the manufacturers
for lower costs”, says Saurav Ujjain, Coun-
try Head (VN) at ThreadSol.
ThreadSol solutions intelloBuy and intel-
loCut work with the notion to target fabric
cost and have been adopted by the top
manufacturers in Vietnam like Fashion Gar-
ments Ltd. In Bien Hoa, Tan Phu and Xuan
Tam, PT Daese Garmin, Pan Brothers and PT
Ameya in Indonesia, Thong Thai in Thailand,
Hirdaramani Group in Sri Lanka etc.
“We at ThreadSol bring upto 10% mate-
rial cost reduction to ensure that the profits
for these manufacturers go up by 50-60%”,
explains Saurav Ujjain.
ThreadSol’s participation in Saigon Tex
is a step further to market its solutions to
the potential manufacturers who can now
invest in ThreadSol’s innovative solutions to
reinvent their manufacturing efficiency and
boost profit margins.
About ThreadSol:
ThreadSol Softwares was established
in 2012 to Challenge the Present of manu-
facturing industries with its innovative
solutions. In the short span of operations,
ThreadSol has offices in Delhi, Bangalore,
Jakarta, Colombo, Istanbul, Ho Chi Minh
City and Dhaka.
70+ customers in 12 geographies plan
2 million garments through our solutions,
every day.
ThreadSol solutions- intelloCut and in-
telloBuy, currently used by manufacturers
in India, Sri Lanka, Bangladesh, Pakistan,
Vietnam, Thailand, Indonesia, Turkey, Philip-
pines and China, have already set standards
amongst Sewn Products’ automation solu-
tions worldwide.
With over 70 success stories around the
world, ThreadSol is a name synonymous
with consistent material saving and sustain-
able profit, providing incredible benefits to
the customers.
For more information, visit www.
threadsol.com
NEWS

UNION BUDGET 2016-17 ( VIKAS KA BUDGET)
Indian PM Mr. Narendra Modi called union budget 2016-17 as “
Vikas ka Budget” or “Growth oriented budget”. Focus of the budg-
et is to grow & help poor, villagers, women & youth.
Economics: Growth of Indian economy is 7.6 % in 2015-16,
though IMF consider as “Bright” due to Growth is in positive direc-
tion against odds like shortfall of monsoon, slowing economy in the
world. Foreign exchange reserves are 350 billion USD.
Priority:
• Stability in Macro economics, financial debts.
• Change the life of people which increase Domestic de-
mand.
• Priority sectors are agriculture & rural, social, infrastruc-
ture, employment , banking
• Agriculture sector allocated funds are Rs. 35984 crore
• Rural sector allocated funds are Rs. 87765 crore
• Social sector , education & health care sector allocated
Rs. 1,51,581 crore
• Skill development allocated fund are Rs. 1804 crore
• Job creation allocated fund are Rs. 1000 crores
• Infrastructure total : Rs. 2, 21, 246 crores, in which Roads
sector : Rs. 55000 crore
• Recapitalization of Public sector bank allocated Rs. 25000
crores
• Textiles allocated funds are Rs. 4594 crore
Textile Specific Budget Overview :
• Basic Custom Duty Reduced to 2.5% for textile raw materi-
als used in Technical textiles. The goods included under this facil-
ity are Nylon 66 filament yarn, Polyester anti static filament yarn,
Aramid flame retardant fibre, Para-aramid fibre, Nylon staple fibre,
Nylon anti static staple fibre, Modacrylic fibre and Flame retardant
viscose rayon yarn. This measure will help bring down the input
cost for several technical textiles manufacturers in the country.
• Basic customs duty on import of fabrics reduced to zero
provided these articles are imported to manufacture garments for
export. Also, the string attached to this facility that the total value
of goods imported shall not exceed one per cent of the Free
on Board (FOB) value of textile garments exported during the pre-
ceding financial year. The products included to this facility are cot-
ton and elastane printed fabrics, cotton and metallic yarn dyed
blended fabrics, cotton and spandex and metallic blended
fabrics, cotton and silk lining fabric, 100% linen chambray wo-
ven/dyed fabric, 100% ramie dyed /blended printed yarn dyed fabric,
nylon and spandex lining fabrics, 100% polyester velvet dyed fabric,
cotton / nylon / embroidery crochet lace lining fabric from the
chapters 50, 52, 54, 55 or any other chapter.
• Budget Allocation To Ministry of Textiles Increased
The ministry has received Rs. 4594.82 crores for the upcoming
financial year to support its various schemes covering the entire
textile industry. In 2015-16, the budget allocation for the ministry
was Rs. 4326.44 crores. The flagship ATUF scheme has been allo-
cated Rs. 1480 crores for FY 2016-17 compared to Rs. 1510.79 crores
in the FY 2015-16. Apart from ATUFS, all central funded schemes for
textile sector have received required allocation of funds.
• Consumption Of Textiles And Apparel To Grow
The Government’s focus on the farmer and rural sector is ex-
pected to boost the economic health of rural India which in return
will improve consumption of textiles and apparels. Significantly
large expenditure by the government in the rural and agricultural
sector will stimulate demand. Domestic textile market size is antici-
pated to grow significantly, driven by increased consumption from
rural and semi urban areas in the next 2-3 years.
• RMG Sector Under The Excise Net
The FM has proposed to change the excise duty on branded
readymade garments and made up articles of textiles with a retail
sale price of Rs 1,000 and above from ‘nil without input tax credit or
6%/12.5% with input tax credit’ to ‘2% without input tax credit or 12.5%
with input tax credit’.
How Cotton Could Benefit
The government aims to double farm income by 2020, making
farming a more lucrative activity. This should address the problem
of high suicide rates among farmers, especially cotton farmers.
The proposed schemes for organic farming should give a boost to
organic farming of cotton too, creating much value for the chain.
Moreover, to improve farm productivity, the government has iden-
tified irrigation projects as focus area, further giving a boost to the
cotton and agricultural economy.
Infrastructure Development – An Opportunity For Geotech
Manufacturers
The total investment in the road sector, including PMGSY allo-
cation, would be Rs 97,000 crore during 2016-17.
Skill Development
Since its launch, the National Skill Development Mission has
imparted training to 76 lakh youth, who found employment in vari-
ous sectors, including textiles and clothing. The FM, in his budget
speech announced, “We want to bring entrepreneurship to the
doorsteps of youth through Pradhan Mantri Kaushal Vikas Yojana
(PMKVY). We have decided to set up 1500 Multi Skill Training Insti-
tutes across the country. I am setting aside an amount of Rs 1,700
crore for these initiatives.”
Tax Reforms
Presumptive taxation scheme under section 44AD of the In-
come Tax Act is available for small and medium enterprises i.e non-
corporate businesses with turnover or gross receipts not exceeding
Rs 1 crore. This frees them from the burden of maintaining detailed
books of account and getting audit done. The FM has increased
the turnover limit under this scheme to Rs 2 crore, allowing a large
number of assesses in the MSME category.
HIGHLIGHTS

Growth oriented budget - SIMA chief
The Union Budget 2016-17 has come out with nine thrust
areas to enable the country to achieve a sustained growth rate in-
spite of slow down in the global economy.
In a Press Release issued here today, Mr.M.Senthilkumar,
Chairman, The Southern India Mills’ Association (SIMA) has wel-
comed the nine pillars of growth trajectory budget marking at
developing infrastructure, skill Upgradation, agriculture develop-
ment (doubling farmers income by 2022), health care, social devel-
opment, education, etc. SIMA Chief has also welcomed the nine
point agenda to ensure compliance, ease of doing business, curb-
ing black money, providing opportunity for declaring undisclosed
income, etc.
With regard to textiles, Mr.Senthilkumar has thanked
the Government for continuing optional Cenvat route on cotton
textiles which was the main demand of the Association. He has
expressed his gratitude to the Hon’ble Prime Minister, Hon’ble Fi-
nance Minister and the Government for allocating Rs.1480 crores
for Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme. He has stated that addi-
tional funds would be required to meet the pending subsidies since
September 2014. Mr.Senthilkumar has also welcomed the reduc-
tion of basic customs duty on MMF from 5% to 2.5% though the As-
sociation has demanded for total withdrawal. He has stated that
reduction in customs duty on MMF would marginally improve the
competitiveness of the MMF and their blended textile manufactur-
ers in the country.
Mr.Senthilkumar has opined that the Government could
have avoided imposing 2% central excise duty without Cenvat
credit facility or 12.5% central excise duty with Cenvat credit facility
on branded ready-made garments and made-ups materials priced
above Rs.1000/-. He has said that as the Central government is
expected to implement GST in short while, the Centre could have
avoided levy of central excise duty on such items. He has stated
that the tariff value of ready-made garments/ made-ups for the pur-
pose of levying central excise duty has been increased from 30% to
60% of the MRP which would marginally increase the cost for the
consumers. However, SIMA Chief has thanked the Government for
exempting non-branded textile items below the value of Rs.1000/-
from the purview of excise duty which would benefit the people
below the poverty line.
Mr.Senthilkumar while commenting on the various ben-
efits extended for the skill development and job creation in the Na-
tion, has hailed EPF benefit of 8.33% extended for the new entrants
in the EPF. He has stated that this would significantly improve the
compliance and also ensure social security of the employees. SIMA
Chief has also appreciated the enhancement of limit of House Rent
Allowance from Rs.24,000/- to Rs.60,000/- which would benefit the
salaried class.
Central Budget Again Hits Branded
Garments and Made Ups: CMAI
.Shri Rahul Mehta, President of Clothing Manufacturers Asso-
ciation of India (CMAI), Mumbai has expressed anguish at the way
the Central Budget presented in Parliament today has hit the gar-
ments and made ups segment of the textiles industry. In a state-
ment issued here he recalled that introduction of duty on finished
products, while sustaining the exemption for upstream products,
was an experiment implemented a few years back by the previous
government and withdrawn subsequently when the disastrous
consequences were understood. Repeating that experiment is the
last thing that the industry needed, especially when the entire tex-
tiles and clothing industry in the country is already going through
a crisis because of demand recession both in the domestic and ex-
port markets.
Shri Mehta pointed out that the very task of collecting this duty
from the highly dispersed and mostly tiny units in the garment
sector would be a formidable one for the government, especially
when the rest of the value chain remains exempted and therefore
traceability will be a serious issue. The large number of small and
tiny units in the sector will also find it impossible to follow the pro-
cedures involved. The result will be that evaders will prosper and
compliant units will suffer. He added that the revenue for govern-
ment from this decision will be negligible, whereas the problems
that it would create for the industry will be huge.
According to Mr. Mehta, the imposition is all the more surpris-
ing when the Finance Minister rightly emphasized in his speech the
importance of Job Creation and the Make in India thrust. Textile
is the highest employer after Agriculture, and hence it is indeed
ironical that new Taxes are being levied on such an Industry. As it is,
the Industry is going through a rough patch, with the onslaught of
Online Companies with their high discounting, and the somewhat
sluggish sentiments of the market. This imposition will worsen the
situation.
It is also crucial to note that the current period was seeing a lot
of Exporters, hoping to off set their slow down in Global Markets,
making an entry in the Domestic sector. Their efforts would again
hit a roadblock.
Shri Rahul Mehta requested the Finance Minister to withdraw
this duty and continue the optional duty regime that applies cur-
rently, until GST is introduced. He pointed out that once GST is
introduced, the whole value chain will be covered by duty and
traceability as well as compliance will improve tremendously and
implementation problems will also ease considerably.
BUDGET REACTIONS

Abstract
Modal fibre is known for its softness, smoothness and drape.
Industry is using modal fibre in weft along with filament in warp
for the dress material to achieve the required attributes in fabric.
In the present study we have objectively measured and compared
hand feel of two candidates Viscose Filament Yarn/Modal and Cu-
prammonium Rayon/Modal. It is found that Total Hand Value (THV)
is better in case of Viscose Filament Yarn/Modal than Cuprammo-
nium/Modal by 0.21 basis points. Compression Property is better
in case of Viscose Filament Yarn/Modal since it scores better than
Cuprammonium on LC, WC and RC. Stretch and recovery is bet-
ter in case of Viscose Filament Yarn/Modal than Cuprammonium/
Modal because of higher value of EMT and RT by 0.57and 5.94 basis
unit, respectively. Viscose Filament Yarn/Modal stretches more and
has better recovery as compared to Cuprammonium/Modal. It is
confirmed that Viscose Filament Yarn/Modal is softer than Cupram-
monium/Modal because of low values of B and 2HB by 0.0151 and
0.0040. Smoothness is found to be better in case of Cuprammo-
nium/Modal because of lower frictional values.
Key words: Modal, Viscose Filament Yarn, Cuprammonium
Rayon, Kawabata
Introduction
The apparel market can be classified into men’s wear, women’s
wear and kids wear segments. Among the women’s wear 40 per-
cent is 100% cotton while remaining are blends. Among different
fibres rayon was and continues to be an important fibre in this
segment. There are different kinds of rayon fibres such as Viscose,
Modal, Lyocell and two filament base i.e. Viscose Filament Yarn &
Cuprammonium rayon used in this segment due properties like
High absorbency, easy to dye, soft on the skin and Smoothness.
Viscose Filament Yarn and Cuprammonium are the most popular
filaments used in this segment.
Cuprammonium rayon is usually made in fine filaments that
are used in lightweight summer dresses and blouses, sometimes
in combination with cotton to make textured fabrics with slubbed,
uneven surfaces. Cuprammonium fibre is a new rayon and renew-
able cellulose better than real silk, especially in absorbency, color-
ability, drapability, and antistatic property. The end usages of Cu-
prammonium rayon are variety of fabrics i.e. in Women’s Wear,
Blouses, Underwear, Japanese Dresses, Scarves, Curtain, Bed-
clothes, and Umbrellas etc.
Viscose Filament Yarn, commonly known as “Artificial Silk’ or
‘Art Silk” was a result to find a substitute for silk; it is cellulosic like
cotton with aesthetics of silk, but far cheaper than Silk. With the
introduction of range of finer deniers with more number of fila-
ments, Viscose Filament Yarn fabric is similar Cupromonium yarn
fabric. Further in segments, like Georgette and Crepe fabrics, fabric
made from Viscose Filament is superior to Cupromonium yarn due
to particular requirements of the fabric. It is a fine and soft material
commonly used in t-shirts, tunics, shirts, nightwear and dresses.
The other advantages of Viscose Filament Yarn are it is easily avail-
able in market. And it is much cost comparative than Cupprammo-
nium. Thus the present study is designed to compare the comfort
characteristic of Viscose Filament Yarn and Cuprammonium rayon.
Methodology
In this study we have selected two most commonly used fab-
rics in women’s wear to understand the best performance proper-
ties. The fabrics were,
1. Viscose Filament Yarn X Modal
2. Cuprammonium/ Modal
The physical characteristics of both the fabrics are tabulated
below in Table 1.
Table 1
Fabric
Type
Warp Weft EPI PPI GSM Weave Blend
Viscose
Filament
Yarn X
Modal
50D
Viscose
Fila-
ment
Yarn
60s
Modal
240 84 91.6 Satin 55%
Viscose
Filament
Yarn
/45%
Modal
Cupram-
monium/
Modal
50D Cu-
pram-
mo-
nium
Rayon
60s
Modal
240 84 92.4 Satin 60%
Cupram-
monium
Rayon
/40%
Modal
The comparison is done with the help of comfort property and
performance parameters as tabulated in Table 2.
Table 2
S l .
No
Property Unit Test Method
1 Comfort Property Kawabata Evaluation System
2 Abrasion Resistance % IS 12673-1989
3 Pilling Grade IS 10971-1984
4 Dimensional Stability % IS 1299-1984
Results & Discussion
1. Kawabata Evaluation System (KES)
This is a Japanese system of objectively measuring the handfeel
of fabric. Various properties are measured to understand handfeel
related attributes of the fabric. These are as follows:
1A. Primary and Total Hand Values: Total hand value provides
an overall evaluation, which is rated on 1 to 5 scales. 1 rating in-
dicates poor result and 5 rating indicate excellent result. Results
Comparative study of Viscose Fila‐
ment Yarn/Modal and Cuprammo‐
nium Rayon/Modal Woven Printed
Fabric
Dr. Ravinder Tuteja Mr . Rushikesh Raghav Mr. Susuvan Roy
COVER STORY

in Table 3 shows that Total Hand Value (THV) is better in case of
Viscose Filament Yarn/Modal than Cuprammonium/Modal since the
total hand value is higher by 0.21 basis points. As we know the mo-
lecular orientation is better in case of Viscose Filament yarn so the
hand feel is better in case of Viscose filament fabric.
Table 3
Sample
ID No.
Sample Marked
as
Koshi Nu-
meri
Fukur-
ami
THV
KN-304
Winter
C-14089 Viscose Filament
Yarn X Modal
4.40 9.19 8.24 5.00
C-14091 Cuprammonium
Rayon X Modal
5.52 8.64 8.03 4.80
1B. Compression properties using Compression Tester
(KES-FB3): Compressibility of fabric is defined as the extent or
reduction in “Thickness” with the application of normal pressure.
Compression Property is better in case of Viscose Filament Yarn/
Modal since it scores better than Cuprammonium on LC, WC and
RC as shown in Table 4.
Table 4
Sample
ID No.
Sample Marked
as
LC WC
g.cm/cm^2
RC
%
C-14089 Viscose Filament
Yarn X Modal
0.780 0.064 67.25
C-14091 Cuprammonium
Rayon X Modal
0.907 0.075 61.51
1C. Tensile properties using Tensile Tester (KES-FB1): It
measures the stress / strain parameters at a maximum load for the
type of material being tested. Table 5 shows that stretch and recov-
ery is better in case of Viscose Filament Yarn/Modal than Cupram-
monium/Modal because of higher value of EMT and RT by 0.57and
5.94 basis unit, respectively.
Table 5
Sample
ID No.
Sample
Marked
as
LT WT gf.cm/
cm2
RT
%
EMT
%
C-14089 Viscose
Filament
Yarn X
Modal
Warp 0.728 0.42 73.59 2.28
Weft 0.863 0.45 68.05 2.09
Avg 0.795 0.43 70.82 2.18
C-14091 Cupram-
monium
Rayon X
Modal
Warp 0.614 0.16 71.04 1.01
Weft 0.724 0.40 58.73 2.21
Avg 0.669 0.28 64.88 1.61
1D. Shear properties using Shear Tester (KES-FB1): Shear
properties are measure of inter yarn friction force, it represents the
stability of fabric to withstand in plane mechanical distortion. Table
6 confirms that Viscose Filament Yarn/modal have better recovery
for stretch as compared to Cuprammonium/Modal.
Table 6
Sample
ID No.
Sample
Marked as
G gf/cm.
deg
2HG
gf/cm
2HG5
gf/
cm
C-14089 Viscose
Filament Yarn
X Modal
Warp 0.24 0.06 0.07
Weft 0.24 0.07 0.04
Avg 0.24 0.07 0.05
C-14091 Cuprammo-
nium Rayon X
Modal
Warp 0.28 0.15 0.19
Weft 0.32 0.14 0.18
Avg 0.30 0.15 0.19
1E. Bending properties using Pure Bending Tester (KES-FB2):
It relates to the softness of fabric. Results tabulated in Table 7
confirms that shows that Viscose Filament Yarn X modal is softer
than Cuprammonium/Modal because of low values of B and 2HB by
0.0151 and 0.0040.
Table 7
Sample
ID No.
Sample
Marked as
B
gf.cm2
/cm
2HB gf.cm/
cm
C-14089 Viscose Fila-
ment Yarn X
Modal
Warp 0.0178 0.0103
Weft 0.0035 0.0138
Avg 0.0107 0.0121
C-14091 Cuprammo-
nium Rayon
X Modal
Warp 0.0423 0.0252
Weft 0.0093 0.0069
Avg 0.0258 0.0161
1F. Surface Properties using Surface Tester (KES-FB4): It relates
to the Surface smoothness, evenness and geometrical arrangement
of fabric. Results in Table 8 shows that Smoothness is better in case
of Cuprammonium/Modal because of lower frictional values.
Table 8
Sample
ID No.
Sample
Marked as
MIU MMD SMD
(μm)
C-14089 Viscose Fila-
ment Yarn X
Modal
Warp 0.119 0.0034 1.52
Weft 0.200 0.0073 5.04
Avg 0.160 0.0054 3.28
C-14091 Cuprammo-
nium Rayon X
Modal
Warp 0.113 0.0033 1.55
Weft 0.174 0.0072 4.46
Avg 0.143 0.0052 3.01
Conclusion
From the above measured parameters, we can conclude that
Viscose Filament Yarn /Modal base fabrics are better than Cupram-
monium/Modal base fabrics in terms of
y Total Hand Value
y Softness
y Bending
y Frictional Properties and
y Compression and Resilience
Acknowledgement
We would like to express our sincere gratitude to Dr. Vijayram-
akrisnan (Head TRADC) for his valuable guidance, support and en-
couragement throughout this study.
Very special thanks to the staffs of Central Institute for Research
on Cotton Technology for the assistance throughout the study.
COVER STORY

Performance Properties
Fabrics were tested and results are tabulated below.
Table 9
Property Unit Viscose Fila-
ment Yarn/
Modal
Cupram-
monium/
Modal
Test Meth-
od
EPI X PPI Nos. 240 X 84 240X72 IS 1963-
1981
GSM gms 91.6 92.4 ISO 3801 -
1977
Width cm 112.1 114 IS 1954-
1990
Abrasion
resistance (Wt.
loss@2000rev)
% 2.56 2.02 IS 12673-
1989
Pilling grade 4-5 4-5 IS 10971-
1984
Dimensional
stability
% Warp: -3.75
Weft: -1.25
Warp:
-5.0
Weft:
-0.5
IS 1299-
1984
* Performance testing was done at TRADC, Birla dham, Kharach,
Dist. Bharuch, Gujrat.
References
1. Handbook of Fiber Science and Technology, Fiber Chemistry, Vol.
IV.
2.http://www.mindfully.org/Plastic/Cellulose/Rayon-
Fiber,htm(1of15)7/2/2007.
3. Mechanical Properties as a base for haptic sensing of virtual fab-
rics, M. Varheenmaa (Tampere University of Technology, Fibre
Materials Science, SmartWearLab, Finland) & H. Meinander
(Tampere University of Technology, Fibre Materials Science,
SmartWearLab, Finland).
4. A Comparative Study of Regenerated bamboo, cotton and vis-
cose rayon fabrics. Part 1: Selected Comfort Properties, Adine
Gericke & Jani van der Pol, ISSN 0378-5254, Journal of Family
Ecology and Consumer Sciences, Vol 38, 2010.
5. http://www.tx.ncsu.edu/tpacc/comfort-performance/kawaba-
ta-evaluation-system.cfm.
6. Kawabata Evaluation System, Arsheen Moiz, Mansoor Iqbal,
Aleem Ahmed And Kamran Farooq, www.fibre2fashion.com
,Tuesday, March 02, 2010.
7. Sensorial Comfort of Textile Materials, Gonca Ozcelik Kayseri1,
Nilgun Ozdil2 and Gamze Supuren Menguc, Turkey.
8. Modelling Hysteresis in the Bending of Fabrics by Timothy John
Lahey, A thesis presented to the University of Waterloo in fulfil-
ment of the thesis requirement for the degree of Master of Ap-
plied Science in Systems Design Engineering Waterloo, Ontario,
Canada, 2002.
9. Physical testing of textile, Savila, Woodhead Publisher.
10. Kawabata, S. The Standardization and Analysis of Hand Evalu-
ation (2nd edition), The Hand Evaluation and Standardization
Committee. The Textile Machinery Society of Japan, July 1980.
96 p.
11. Fabric testing, Woodhead Publisher
12. Principal of textile testing, E.P.Booth.
13. Textile testing and quality control, Grover.
TRADC, Birla Cellulose Bharuch, Gujarat, India
E mail:
ravinder.tuteja@adityabirla.com
susuvan.roy@adityabirla.com
rushikesh.raghav@adityabirla.com
EFFECT ON PROCESS OF 100% POLYESTER STAPLE FIBRE ON RO‐
TOR SPINNING WITH RESPECT TO POLYESTER FIBRE AND SPIN‐
FINISH
Satyakam Srivastava1
, D K Sharma1
, Satyapal Singh1
,
Neeraj Dwivedi1
, Babu Matthew1
,
1
Unit 7, RSWM Limited, Lodha, Banswara, Rajashthan, India
Abstract
Rotor spinning systems provide yarn with different structures
and properties as compared to ring spinning. Each system has its
limitations and advantages in terms of technical feasibility and
economic viability. Various counts were produced from the above
systems with different specific spin finish and tested. The polyester
fibre exhibited various levels of imperfection in rotor yarn tested
on Uster tester 4. Tensile, evenness and hairiness of the yarns
were studied. Impact of Environmental condition, fibre finish, fibre
length, fibre denier was observed. Objective was to create a lowest
imperfection yarn at Rotor Spinning which in turn is to be used to
produce awnings and coated fabrics with zero defects on surface.
Process involved material processing on standard Trutzschler
Blowroom line, equipped with Trutzschler Card TC – 05 (3),
Trutzschler Drawframes TD – 03, and Schlafhorst ACO-8 latest Ro-
tor spinning machine.
INTRODUCTION
Polyester was one of the great man-made fibre discoveries of
the forties and has been manufactured on an industrial scale since
1947. Polyester fibres are the first choice for apparel and are used in
trousers, skirts, dresses, suits, jackets, blouses and outdoor cloth-
ing
Polyester fibres are particularly resistant to light and weather
and can withstand climatic effects. They can be used where light-
COVER STORY

ness and fineness are primary requirements. Polyester fibres are
very well suited to blends with natural fibres. Fabrics in 100% pol-
yester, or blends with an appropriately high proportion, are very
crease-resistant and retain shape even when affected by mois-
ture. Polyester fibres have good moisture transport and dry quick-
ly. They are easy care. High tenacity ensures above-average wear
qualities.
Polyester fibres are available in Cut lengths of 32, 38, 44, 51
nd 64mm for cotton type spinning and a blend of 76, 88 and 102
mm - average cut length of 88m for worsted spinning. The most
common cut length is 38 mm. For OE spinning, 32 mm fibre is pre-
ferred as it enables smaller dia rotor (of 33mm) to be used which
can be run at 80000 to 100000 rpm.
Polyester fibers are available in 4 tenacity levels.
y Low pill fibres- usually in 2.0 / 3.0 D for suiting end use with te-
nacities of 3.0 to 3.5 gpd (grams per denier). These fibres are
generally used on worsted system and 1.4D for knitting
y Medium Tenacity - 4.8 to 5.0 gpd
y High Tenacity - 6.0 to 6.4 gpd range and
y Super high tenacity - 7.0 gpd and above
Both medium and high tenacity fibres are use d for
appare l end use. The super high tenacity fibres are used
ssentially for spinning 100% polyester sewing threads and other
industrial yarns. The higher tenacities are obtained by using higher
draw ratios and higher annealer temperatures upto 225 to 230
degree C and a slight additional pull of 2% or so at the last zone in
annealing.
SPIN FINISH
Several types of spin finishes are available. It is only by a mill
trial that the effectiveness of a spin finish can be established.
A spin finish is supposed to give high fibre to fibre fric-
tion of 0.4 to 0.45, so as to control fibre movement particularly at
selvedges , low fibre-metal friction of 0.2 to 0.15 to enable lower
tensions and provide adequate static protection at whatever
speed the textile machine are running and provide enough cohe-
sion to control fly and lapping tendencies and lubrication to enable
smoother drafting.
Spin finish as used normally consists of 2 components - one
that gives lubrication / cohesion and other that gives static protec-
tion. Each of these components have upto 18 different compo-
nents to give desired properties plus anti fungus, antibacterial anti
foaming and stabilisers.
A mill with new OE spinning machines having rotors running
more than 80000 rpm, then a totally different spin finish which
has a significantly lower fibre - fibre and fibre - metal friction gave
very good results.
For staple processing and high production though latest ma-
chinery with higher rotor speeds and finer counts place greater
impact on spin finish, processing capability of fibre depends on fi-
bre to fibre friction and fibre to metal friction and high rotor speed
generating heat. Rapid heat generation destroys the lubrication
and finish become ineffective. The high speed opening roller speed
removes the polymer film from fibre on to rotor where it is depos-
ited in form of powder.
It has also been observed that bright fibre causes more trouble
in rotors spinning as compared to semidull(TiO2) fibres because of
the frictional forces are four times higher than bright fibre.
It has also been claimed that TiO2 affects the surface geometry
, ie bright fibres have a smooth surface , whereas dull fibres have a
rough surface. It also important to note that spin finishes and com-
ponents for shear resistance improvement are different from those
needed to reduce dynamic friction. Also for high speed production
a much better antistatic protection is required.
LUSTRE:
y Polyester fibres are available in
y Bright : 0.05 to 0.10 % TiO2
y Semi dull : 0.2 to 0.3 % TiO2
y Dull : 0.5 % TiO2
y Extra dull : 0.7% TiO2 and
Manufacturing textiles puts extreme pressures on process
stability, the quality consistency of textiles and the life span of
machine components. With operating times gradually reaching
the maximum numbers of hours available in a year, a high level of
long-term consistency in all three factors is expected. In spinning
practice, there are constant attempts to work against the gradual
deterioration of these points. Process stability is influenced mainly
by unsteady yarn tension. A consistent quality can only be guaran-
teed through the stabilization of the relevant parameters. Both cri-
teria must assume primarily defined and temporal constant friction
between textile and contacting machine element.
Study of spin finish:-
Spin finish was applied on Polyester Fibres with conditioning
and results are compared with the material produced without Cirr-
asol HSL 40
Mixing Blend 100% polyester 1.2 X 32 mm
OE Count 12 Ne
Rotor RPM 88000
With out Finish
With Finish Cirra-
sol HSL 40
Yarn Breaks / 1000 Rotor
Hours
114 40
Yarn Cuts / 1000 Rotor Hours 698 181
Uster 8.68 8.48
-50% 2 0
+50% 12 2.2
+280% 5 1.8
Total IPI 19.0 4.0
Powder Deposition Very high Very low
Mixing Blend Polyester cotton
65% polyester 1.2 X 32 mm, 35%
Cotton
OE Count 10 Ne
Rotor RPM 73000
With out Finish
With Finish
Cirrasol HSL 40
Yarn Breaks / 1000 Rotor Hours 156 12
Yarn Cuts / 1000 Rotor Hours 205 13
Uster 10.69 9.99
-50% 0.4 0
+50% 30.2 10.5
+280% 9.8 5
Total IPI 40.4 11
Powder Deposition Very high Very low
COVER STORY

Condition of Rotor Spin Box
1. Before Spin Finish
Powder deposition in rotor Spin box with powder deposition
Debris collected from rotor After Spin Finish
no deposition observed in Rotor as well as Spin box even after 48
hrs of process
Result and discussion:-
The total study was conducted with Polyester fibres supplied
by Reliance industries, the results reflected the high temperature
environmental condition (32oC , 58% RH) prevailing in the rotor
spinning department at the summer time in Indian Condition,
As presumed the surface structure of semi dull polyester fibre
is rough in nature which is a regular fibre to spin yarns at Rotor
Spinning. The fibre blended with cotton provides high strength,
and long life to yarn for high speed weaving and crease free finish
to fabric. Polyester fibre is used at 65% to 40% in blend with cotton
to cater to various fabric structures.
During the summer season in India the atmospheric tempera-
ture rises to 45oC which increases the temperature of processing
at Rotor. This results in ineffectiveness of fibre finish to the fibre
for consistent processing. The specific deposit of powder in rotor
and spin box region is very evident which leads to high breakage
rate and inconsistent quality cuts. Application of external finish of
antistatic fails to support which converts into powder deposition.
This leads to higher imperfection in yarn and lower production of
machine.
Croda supported to produce a finish based on Silicon Ethoxy-
ates which is typically a lubricant and reduces interfibre frictional
forces and helps in reducing the impact of friction due to metal pro-
cessing the fibre.
This treatment of spin finish provided by Croda for treat-
ing polyester fibre takes some time to adhere to the fibre
which finally helps in spinning the yarn at Rotor Spinning
stage. The trials conducted with immediate application of
spin finish were not able to generate the desired results in
the yarn.
There was clear reduction of deposition of powder at ro-
tor and Spin Box region even after 48 hours of working as
displayed in pictures. This reduction eventually increased the
productivity and efficiency of machine significantly.
The results indicate that there is significant impact of
spin finish on yarn breaks per 1000 rotor hours, Yarn cuts per
1000 rotor hours and also the IPI levels of yarn was been re-
duced significantly.
References :
y Grosbberg P & Mansour S A, J Text Inst, 66(1975)
y Barella A,Vigo J P, Tura J M & Esperon H O, J Text Inst, 67(1976)
y Balasubramanian N & Manohar J S, Proceedings, seminar on Open End
Spinning (The Bombay Textile Research Association,Bombay)1982
y Pillay K P R, Proceedings, Joint seminar on Open end spinning system
of LMW & SITRA,1986,
y Manohar J S, Rakshit A K & Balasubramanian N, Text Res J.(1983)
y S M Ishtiaque, Indian Journal of Fibre and Textile Research, 224-230,1992
y “Short Staple Spinning” (Derichs, Josef, et al., Polyester: Tomorrow’s
Ideas & Profits, Brunnschweiler, Ed. (1993)).
y Deussen H.; Rotor Spinning Technology, 21. Schlafhorst Inc. Charlotte,
North Carolina, USA 1993 pp. pp. 56-64, 77.
y Nikolic M., Bukosek V.; Textile Research 17. Journal, 65 1995 (11), p. 652.
y Kong L.X., , Platfoot R.A.; Textile Rese18. arch Journal, 66 1996 (1), p. 30.
COVER STORY
7th March, 2016 – Brussels, Belgium –
Diaper Recycling Technology, a Singapore-
based company focused on advanced
diaper recycling solutions has won the 2016
OUTLOOK™ Asia Award, for their system
which aims to address the average 2% of re-
ject or scrap rates from the manufacturing
process, while offering a recycling process
with high purity and separation of the raw
materials stream.
As one of three companies shortlisted,
and invited to present during the confer-
ence, the company was selected by dele-
gates as best meeting the brief of providing
a product or service that best matched the
needs of the Asia Pacific market, including
India.In receiving the Award, Martin Scaife,
Managing Director of the company said
“We are most honoured to win the 2016
OUTLOOK™ Asia award and see this as con-
firmation of our team’s innovative and tech-
nical excellence and the positive confirma-
tion that hygiene industry is quickly moving
towards reducing waste and making the op-
erations more efficient. Our team wishes to
thank EDANA for their ongoing support to
the Asian Pacific region and delivering the
extension of their OUTLOOK conferences
series in South East Asia.”
Runners up included Hemas Manufac-
turing, a SriLankan-based company who
develop and manufacture feminine hygiene
products. Their product, the ‘Fems Sanitary
Napkin’, aims to meet the needs of women
in Asia, with particular reference to the
needs of modern women in an urban, and
often tropical environment.
Also a shortlisted contender was East-
man Chemical, a global specialty chemical
company, with their newly developed Aer-
afin™ polymer, which enables manufactur-
ers to formulate extremely stable, low odor
construction adhesives for the hygiene in-
dustry.
EDANA thanked all companies that sent
submissions to the Award
DIAPER RECYCLING TECHNOLOGY WINS THE OUTLOOK™ ASIA AWARD

Recruitment Trends in Spinning Industry Re‐
cruitment Trends in Spinning Industry
Introduction
Indian Textile Industry contributes about 11 percent to indus-
trial production, 14 per cent to the manufacturing sector, 4 percent
to the GDP and 12 per cent to the country’s total export earnings. It
provides direct employment to over 35 million people, the second
largest provider of employment after agriculture. Besides, another
54.85 million people are engaged in its allied activities.Knowing the
above fact still recruitment in Textile Industry is really challenging
as the textile industry is made up different functions right from pro-
curement of raw material to manufacturing of finished goods.
Now let us focus on textile spinning industry which one of the
most complicated and highly technical function of the textile indus-
try. As there are various different kind of spinning available. Few of
them are:
1. Break Spinning
2. Rotor Spinning
3. Friction Spinning
4. Air-jet Spinning
5. Centrifugal Spinning
6. Dispersion Spinning
7. Draw-Spinning
8. Dry Spinning (man-made fiber production)
9. Flash Spinning
10. Flyer Spinning
11. Melt Spinning (man-made fiber production)
12. Reaction Spinning (man-made-fiber production)
13. Ring Spinning
14. Wet Spinning (man-made-fiber production)
Reference: http://textilelearner.blogspot.in/2012/07/different-
types-of-yarn-spinning-system.html
Every type of spinning is used for specific type of manufacture
of textile finished good which may be used by the business people
or directly used by the consumer. There are no person who can be
expertise in all types of spinning as each spinning is technically dif-
ferent from each other. There are many textile mills in India but
each mills have different needs as per their expertise and what
their focus product what market they want to carter to. It
Why India has Advantage
The Indian economy has primarily been an agriculture-driven
economy. The vast stretches of land, resources and climatic condi-
tions aid the production of varied raw materials for different indus-
trial purposes. Historically, India has been known for its high-quality
cotton, jute and other natural fibre. Over the years, however, the
domestic industry has progressed and diversified into many types
of fibre and yarn, both natural and man-made. The textile industry
in India includes almost all types of textile fibres – natural fibres
such as cotton, jute, silk and wool; synthetic / man-made fibres such
as polyester, viscose, nylon, acrylic and polypropylene (PP) and
multiple blends of such fibres and filament yarns such as partial-
lyoriented yarn (POY). The type of yarn used is dictated by the end
product that is manufactured.
Recruitment Challenges
As there are many type spinning method are available hence as
mentioned earlier that it is impossible for a person to be an exper-
tise in all kind of spinning methods. Hence availability getting right
professional for spinning mill is very scarce. The most commonly
used are Airjet , Ring frame and Jacquard looms. Hence mostly in
recruitment Industry we easy to find experts for technology which
commonly used but it becomes challenge for other types of spin-
ning mills which use different technology spinning for manufac-
tures of different textile products such as machine woven carpets.
Right Spinning Professional
To identify right spinning professional one must look at various
aspects such as what technical qualification the person possess. It
is also necessary to check which technical experience the person
has. If the person is fresher then training is required to develop the
skills of the person which takes around minimum of 5 years be an
expert of particular spinning technology. If a professional is having
around 10 year of experience then it is most likely he may be expert
in two technology of spinning. More than 3 technology of spinning
expert it is very rare to find one professional. Most common ques-
tion are asked while selecting an right spinning experts
y How do you control raw material waste in the department
y How do you meet the target efficiency of the machine and pro-
duction
y What loom efficiency you achieved as per your past experience
y How do you control the loss production
y What is path definition
y What do know about weave structure, and how it is been se-
lected.
y What is the function of a jacquard and how it works
y What are the type of jacquard you know
y How to calculate production from loom reading
y How you can run a loom efficiently
y What is weaver efficiency
Conclusion
Identifying a right spinning professional is highly technical and
hence it necessary for any person from recruitment industry or an
HR professional needs to understand the requirement very well
and should be aware of basic technical terms used in Spinning in-
dustry. As the recruiter has to be very careful while selecting the
right professional for right type of spinning Industry. A recruiter
may or may not able to evaluate the professional technical skills.
Hence and outside consultant who is an expert is always required
for evaluation spinning professionals.
Shri Saurabh Agarwal
Voice: 91-22-22829696 / 22829797
Mobile: +919892337579
email: saurabh@netitb.in
Web: www.thetalentmart.com
HR FOCUS

We say that clothing is a basic need just like food and shelter; it
is a habit that is characteristic of human societies all over the world.
While it is difficult to point a finger at a specific period in human
history when this habit started taking shape, it is clear that early
man had used animal skin and vegetation to protect himself from
the elements of nature. This would have evolved into the use of
clothing as a means to distinguish one section of people from the
other, within societies, thereby making it representative of social
standing. This is pretty much the case today also, when we look at
how fashion business has progressed over the last century in differ-
ent societies, from something that is more functional to one that
reflects a certain lifestyle. The more things change, the more they
remain the same. Or do they, really?
The fashion business today is a big game and fabric weaving is
an integral part of it. When it comes to clothing, there are two main
parameters that need to find a balance with each other- comfort
and style. A lot of product development innovations are focused
on getting this sweet spot of interplay between the two. When we
talk of product development for fashion brands, the focus is funda-
mentally about two aspects- the fabrics, and the cuts- it is a right
mix of the two that gives the desired user experience, and that is
exactly what brands try to achieve.
The more a product category evolves, the more we find the
clutter of product variants in that space. If we take a look at popu-
lar FMCG categories, like Washing Powder, or Chocolates, or Tooth-
pastes, or Shampoos, and see prominent products in their respec-
tive categories in the 80s or 90s and compare them with what
they are now- the point becomes clearer. As consumers get more
evolved, their tastes and requirements get more refined, leading
to the creation of a genuine need in the market for product vari-
ants with specific functional benefits acting as differentiators, like
a Sugar Free Chewing Gum, or a Health Drink with added Calcium,
or a portfolio of a beauty soap, a health soap and a freshness soap
from the same company. The business of branded apparels is no
different, it cannot be different! There are market forces that come
into play which create this scenario.
The level of chemistry and engineering involved in fabric devel-
opment could be a lot more that what meets the eye for a person
who is not familiar with these aspects. Take for instance the good
old cotton shirt- seems uncomplicated right? Is there any rocket
science involved in making one? Ever wondered why different cot-
ton shirts come in different price points even if they are from the
same brand, often showing huge variations in MRPs? Of course,
there is the aspect of patterns, designs and the perceived value
that comes from these attributes. Still, there is a lot more to it than
just that. Noticed labels on the shirts you buy that talk about the
kind of cotton fabric it is made of, like 2/80s Giza Cotton, or other
similar sounding words? Cotton fabrics are generally identified
using a combination of thread count and the ply. Thread count is
expressed as a number, like 50s, 60s, 80s, 120s etc. and indicate
the size of the yarns in terms of the number of threads per square
inches of the fabric. The higher the count, the finer the fabric giving
you a softer, luxurious hand feel; of course at a higher price! Ply, on
the other hand, indicates the number of yarns that are twisted to-
gether to make a single thread. Normally fabrics range from single
ply to three-ply and even higher than that in very rare cases. If the
ply is higher, you get a tighter weave, and a heavier fabric. Talking
of cotton, and other natural fabrics, their origin is seen as an indica-
tor of how priced they are. Sea Island Cotton, Egyptian Cotton and
American Pima Cotton are among the most premium of cottons in
the world. Cotton fabrics have always been an integral part of our
wardrobes- they are comfortable, durable, breathable and stable.
Another natural fabric that has become an important part of
our wardrobes, especially for winter wear and formal clothing, is
wool. While there are lots of stereotypes around wool that makes
you feel it is an ideal winter product, there can be product variants
in wool that can be created to make it more suitable as a fabric
for consumption round the year with a wider scope of usage oc-
casions.
In suiting fabrics, wool has clearly defined standards in qual-
ity and sophistication. However, it is expensive and has inherent
properties that make it more suited for a certain kind of look. The
real potential of wool as a suiting fabric can be exploited when it is
blended with synthetic fibers like polyester. This adds versatility to
wool and enables the development of fabrics with varied customer
benefits. Such fabrics, generally called poly wool, form a large por-
tion of the suiting market, in fact significantly more than pure wool
suiting fabrics. This is because of the attractive price points as well
as unique product features that are attained by blending wool with
different proportions of synthetic fibers. Some of these features
include stretchability, anti-bacterial effects, heat control and similar
such attributes.
The discussion on suiting is done merely to highlight, using one
product type, how synthetic blends can impact the dynamics of
business in a category of clothing. The past few years have seen
the arrival of quite a few synthetic fibers that have led to the de-
velopment of unique functional benefits. Polyester is a fiber that
is used in al kinds of clothing, by itself or by blending with natural
fibers like cotton or wool. Nylon is another synthetic fiber used in
variety of clothing. Spandex is a fiber that provides comfort stretch
and helps making tight fitting clothes with easy movement. Lurex
is a fiber that can be used to give metallic embellishments to gar-
ments, giving a shimmering look. The list of such fabrics is huge and
the idea of sharing this is just to illustrate a few names as examples
of game-changing synthetic fabrics.
New product development in the consumer goods space tends
to reflect the dominant and emergent lifestyle trends of the time. If
we take a look at fabrics, this will be no different. In India as well as
in the major markets of the world, one mega trend we see is in the
direction of health and wellness. People are increasingly getting
aware of the impact of their lifestyles on their health, the calorific
Fabric Innovations: A Category Evolution Per‐
spective
inches of the fabric. The higher the count, the finer the fabric giving
Shri Vishnu Govind
Independent Brand Consultant
Business Director - Thinkkloud
FABRIC FOCUS

value of the food they take in, and the need to stay fit through an
active lifestyle. Hence the heightened activity in the area of sports
and workout friendly clothing comes as no surprise at all. Seamless
clothing is one such example. They go well with tight fitting clothes
that are ideal for a work out, yoga or a jog in the park; they do not
have seams that weigh you down,enabling easy movement.
Perspiration management is an area where a lot of new-age
synthetic fibers are getting developed. While it definitely goes well
with the needs of an active generation, it certainly goes beyond just
that. Sweating is something everybody goes through, in different
degrees, and is often a matter of great discomfort, and yes, embar-
rassment too. Traditionally, natural fibers have always been better
than earlier synthetic developments because of the fact that they
are breathable fabrics. Linen is a light fabric that makes you feel
cooler while lighter variations of wool can keep heat away from the
body. Cotton is a fabric that absorbs moisture and therefore, to a
certain extent, it is good at sweat management. For these reasons,
these natural fabrics do better than lot of synthetic fabrics in anti-
perspirant properties. Where they all fall short, however, is in the
fact that they retain the moisture that does not evaporate from
the skin.
That is precisely where new-age fabrics with water wicking
features come in. They draw moisture just like a candle draws wax
up the wick all the way to the flame. These fabrics are designed to
wick away moisture from the human body to the exterior of the
garment. This enables easy evaporation of the moisture. Many of
these wicking fabrics are made from blends of polyester. The con-
struction of these fabrics is different from that of regular polyester
fabrics. They are designed in such a way that moisture is forced into
and moves through the gaps in the weave to the outer shell of the
garment; in many cases the fabrics are chemically treated to ensure
that moisture does not soak into it. To mention another develop-
ment in this space, there are fabrics with compression technology
that compresses the muscles while you work out, which enables
better blood circulation. Work out fabrics with anti-bacterial prop-
erties are also gaining in popularity.
Development of newer products in any business is an evo-
lutionary process and there is a right time for every idea to truly
emerge. The critical success factor here lies in the synergy of these
initiatives with the macro consumer trends we see around which
may have their ramifications on the product category in question.
There has to be a latent or an obvious need that is being fulfilled
through these new products. Successful companies are those with
an innovation pipeline with the right mix of ideas that can be scaled
up, are differentiated, and are consumer-centric.
systems at Fespa Am-
sterdam
Kornit’s most popular product family
for mid-size businesses receives major up-
grade, features recirculating print heads,
flexible ink configurations and significantly
reduced ink consumption
March 9, 2016 –Kornit Digital, (NASDAQ:
KRNT), a worldwide market leader in digital
textile printingtechnology, has launched
two new direct-to-garment printing sys-
tems at Fespa Amsterdam.
The new systems are members of Ko-
rnit’s best-selling platform of Storm sys-
tems, which – in more than ten years – have
earned a reputation as solid, robust and re-
liable industrial systems with high effective
throughput.
The new Kornit Storm Hexa and Kornit
Storm 1000 have been equipped with state-
of-the-art inkjet technology to turn them
into the most advanced industrial direct-to-
garment printing systems for medium-size
businesses. Their features include a recircu-
lating ink system to reduce ink consumption
and to further optimize reliability, as well as
a doubled number of nozzles to increase
productivity of up to 40% over previous
Storm configurations.
The Storm 1000 is the standard configu-
ration of the new product family and fea-
tures 12 print heads in a CMYK and White
configuration. It produces up to 170 gar-
ments per hour in high productivity mode,
including inline pretreatment. It covers a
print area of up to 50 x 70 cm / 20 x 28 in.
The new Storm Hexa is equipped with
16 print heads and two additional colors for
full CMYK, Red, Green and White support. It
is the system of choice for color conscious
applications such as the production of pro-
motional and brand related garments. It
also can produce up to 170 garments per
hour in high productivity mode.
Both systems are based on Kornit’s
unique NeoPigmentTM printing process.
They are equipped with advanced produc-
tivity features such as a built-in pretreat-
ment system, a quick replace pallet mecha-
nism, a 4 liter bulk ink system, an integrated
humidity system and a backup power sys-
tem for a quick and easy system start. All
Kornit printing systems are compatible
with a variety of fabrics (cotton, polyester,
blends, denim, silk wool and more) and are
geared towards industrial mass-customiza-
tion applications.
Guy Zimmerman, Kornit’s Vice Presi-
dent of Marketing Business Development,
comments: “The Storm series of direct-to-
garment systems have been Kornit’s signa-
ture product for more than a decade. The
Storm II is the best-selling industrial direct-
to-garment printing system in the market.
Launching a new and improved generation
of it is an important milestone for us and a
great opportunity to further improve the ef-
ficiency and performance of our industrial
systems. The new Storm
configurations show drasti-
cally improved throughput
and further reductions in
ink consumption, as well as
excellent print quality. They
are perfect production tools
for a broad range of applica-
tions.”
KornitDigitalintroducesStormHexaandStorm
1000 direct-to-garment printing
NEWS
FABRIC FOCUS

Brand Equity : Power of Brands
BRAND FOCUS
There’s a big question to introspect by all businesses whether
consumer buys products or brands?
Customer buys products to fulfill need/wants whereas it buys
brand to fulfill trust ! Consumer buys products which it feels it can
trust to fulfill its requirement.
Analyse your next purchase & you will experience power of
brand !
A brand’s power derived from the goodwill and name recogni-
tion that it has earned over time, which translates into higher sales
volume and higher profit margins against competing brands.
Some marketing researchers have concluded that brands are
one of the most valuable assets a company has, as brand equity is
one of the factors which can increase the financial value of a brand
to the brand owner, although not the only one. Elements that can
be included in the valuation of brand equity include (but not limited
to): changing market share, profit margins, consumer recognition
of logos and other visual elements, brand language associations
made by consumers, consumers’ perceptions of quality and other
relevant brand values.
Consumers’ knowledge about a brand also governs how
manufacturers and advertisers market the brand. Brand equity is
created through strategic investments in communication chan-
nels and market education thus creating awareness amongst
consumers and appreciates through economic growth in profit
margins, market share, prestige value, and critical associations.
Generally, these strategic investments appreciate over time to de-
liver a return on investment. This is directly related to marketing
ROI.
Brand eq-
uity is strategi-
cally crucial, but
famously diffi-
cult to quantify.
Many experts
have developed
tools to ana-
lyze this asset,
but there is no
agreed way to
measure it. As
one of the seri-
ous challenges that marketing professionals and academics find
with the concept of brand equity, the disconnect between quan-
titative and qualitative equity values is difficult to reconcile. Quan-
titative brand equity includes numerical values such as profit mar-
gins and market share, but fails to capture qualitative elements
such as prestige and associations of interest. Overall, most mar-
keting practitioners take a more qualitative approach to brand
equity because of this challenge. In a survey of nearly 200 senior
marketing managers, only 26 percent responded that they found
the “brand equity” metric very useful.
Lets understand the above narration with help of corporate ex-
amples of Textile brnads like Reliance , Arvind,Raymonds,Welspu
n,Century,Tatas,Birla’s,Bombay Dyeing,Dupont & many more. The
products manufactured by these conglomerates are class apart.
They have strategically developed products which are par excel-
lences & has been top of the consumer’s mind to fulfill its need /
wants.
Product attributes like quality,pricing,availability,packaging
,innovation,diffrentation communication, customer relationship
,consumer grievance & feedback has been just perfect thus creat-
ing TRUST ! Brands have won hearts of consumers & promise to
deliver each time every time to have similar or better experience by
repetitive usage of its products.
Brand Asset Valuator (Young & Rubicam)
Young & Rubicam, a marketing communications agency, has
developed the BrandAsset Valuator, BAV, a tool to diagnose the
power and value of a brand. In using it, the agency surveys consum-
ers’ perspectives along four dimensions:
y Differentiation: The defining characteristics of the brand and
its distinctiveness relative to competitors.
y Relevance: The appropriateness and connection of the brand
to a given consumer.
y Esteem: Consumers’ respect for and attraction to the brand.
y Knowledge: Consumers’ awareness of the brand and under-
standing of what it represents.
Trust allows a brand to gain power over customers which ulti-
mately translates into superior financial performance. By building
trust marketers can easily knock off rivals from customer consider-
ation From the customer perspective brands are important. There
is pervasive trust deficit in almost all walks of life. The institutions
are not able to keep up with the emergent changes. Take the po-
litical upheavals in Egypt and Libya, the financial crises enveloping
the global economy, September 11, Mumbai attacks and terrorism,
scams and corruption in political system and relations with neigh-
bouring countries etc. How is one to live in this environment of sus-
picion, doubt and distrust? This impacts both physical and psycho-
logical well being. It causes tremendous strain and fear. A sense of
loss of control pervades one’s existence.
Set against this background, at least in consumption situations,
brands symbolize consistency and certainty. Brands are tension
reducing mechanisms. Amidst uncertainty brands are assuring and
comforting. Imagine existence in a world without brands. The luxu-
ry to short cut buying would not exist. You would not have reached
out for your tried and tested brands. Brands simplify life by provid-
ing opportunities to develop short cuts. The mental eloquence so
saved is used to resolve other conflicts.
Key Reference :
www.businessdictionary.com/definition/brand-equity.
www.wikipedia.en
www.blog.hubspot.com
Managing brand equity – David Aaker
Principles of branding – David Aaker
n,Century,Tatas,Birla’s,Bombay Dyeing,Dupont & many more. The
Shri Rushin H.Vadhani
AGM – Market Research & Product Development
AYM Syntex Limited (Formely Welspun Syntex Ltd)

Introduction:
Disposable textiles are generally used in or as apparel for func-
tional applications, produced in such a way they can be disposed
off after use. They are generally used for “use & throw” applica-
tions. Textiles can roughly be classified based on technology used
into two types namely woven & non-woven. Of these nonwovens
fit most to manufacture disposable textiles as they can be pro-
duced by using compact production lines which give much higher
productivity at much lower operating cost. They can be tailor-made
functionally and economically for the end user. Disposables are
used to replace apparels as well as for technical applications. To list
a few: Absorbent hygiene, Wipes & surgical gowns etc. Disposables
are gaining popularity due to their hygiene related properties, ease
of use & cost effectiveness. They have wide range of applications in
the sectors like healthcare & hospitality. The use of household dis-
posables is also growing with rapid pace.There are numerous other
disposable applications, such as shopping bags, tablecloths, tow-
els, airline head rests, pillow cases, sorbents, sponges, etc., which
are made and marketed in domestic markets.
Current Indian Scenario
Indian market is under tran-
sition phase. Indian customer is
showing paradigm shift from du-
rables to the disposables. The av-
erage age of Indian population is
25 years.Significantly over 50% of
the population is below 25 years –
the vibrant segment for any mar-
ket. This population is receptive to
new technology & new products.
They are faster in adopting global
trends. The potential for nonwoven disposable usage in India is al-
ways increasing. The world giants in consumer products have all
modified their strategies to suit Indian conditions prior to achiev-
ing any success. India is the second fastest growing economy after
China. According to a survey by Goldman Sachs, India will become
the largest economy by 2035. If we use PPP (purchasing power par-
ity) which takes into account local purchasing power, India already
has the 3rd largest economy. According to a new report by Gold-
man Sachs, India will grow at 8% until 2020. With the younger work-
force and growing per-capita income, the middle and upper classes
will grow significantly, and spending will increase. Although the use
of nonwovens per-capita is extremely low in India at $0.04/capita
compared to $2.73/capita in North America.
The market is growing rapidly for end uses in feminine care,
medical, automotive and packaging applications. The hygiene mar-
ket in India has a great potential because of the low penetration
and the sheer size of the market. The entry strategies with feminine
hygiene products followed by baby diapers, and eventually adult
incontinence, will make it possible for women, children and adults
to benefit from new, hygienic and easy-to-use products. The need
for single-use surgical products (gowns and drapes) is imminent in
Indian hospitals.
Growth Drivers:
• Favorable Demographics
The major young population is the key growth driver in the
growth of Disposable Textiles market. Young population is recep-
tive to westernization. They are always adapting most of thetrends
of western markets. For example, today, we see many of ladies
confidently using kitchen wipes which seem to be a rare scene
about 20 years back.
• Increasing Purchasing Power
Purchasing Power of Indian population is rising. In fact, in most
of the household, the husband & wife, both are working, so they
have more disposable income which makes them spend more.
They are susceptible to buy new products.
• Woman Population
With the changing time, number of working women has in-
creased & this has given them more freedom to spend. With busy
life schedule, they are left with less time for household work. “Use
& throw” products offer them convenience.
Use of sanitary napkins is not limited to the urban market; it
has started reaching to rural markets. TV Media has a great role
to play in the promotion of hygiene products. Disposable products
give them ease of use &these products are less time consuming.
India will be the biggest market for feminine hygiene products like
sanitary napkins in coming future. A typical potential estimate for
feminine hygiene, based on per capita consumption of 50 units per
annum by the eligible population of nearly 300 million users (Age
group 15 to 40) will give a theoretical total market size of approxi-
mately 15 billion pieces. This could result in market sale value of $1.5
billion at 10 cents per piece.
• Growing Healthcare Industry:
Indian healthcare industry is growing exponentially. The de-
Disposable Textiles – Future of Indian Tex‐
tile Industry
Shri Avinash Mayekar
MD, Suvin Advisor Pvt. Ltd.
TECHNICAL TEXTILES

MARCH 2016 ISSUE

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