March 2019 issue

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Sustainability & Recycled Clothing
Highlights of Tamilnadu Textile Policy 2019
Market Report :
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Interviews
Prakash Awade, Leader of Ichalkaranji
Dr. Selvaraju, SIMA
Gagandeep Singh, Denim Manufacture Association

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March 2019CONTENT
COVER STORY: SUSTAINIBILITY
13- Sustainable Fibre: Processing of Abaca fibers in Tex-
tile Industries by Dr. N.N. Mahapatra
15- Recycling/ Sustainability: Management of post con-
sumer Textile Waste by Prerna Kapilla & B.S. Dhillon
MARKET REPORT
18- Flame Retardant Apparel Market Forecast
by FACT MR
20- Indian Apparel Exporter Struggle by ICRA
22- Yarn Report by Textile Beacon
23- Cotton Report by MCX India
24- Fabric Care Market Report by Future Market Insights
25- Surat Report by TVC Reporter
TECHNICAL PAPER
26- TEXTILE PROCESSING: Micro capsulation in textile
Finishing By Professors of VVV college, Indore, INDIA
EVENT REPORT
30- Textile 4.0 by TAI
33- ITMACH INDIA 2019
34- CAI Conference 2019
TECHNICAL TEXTILE
36- Time to rethink , How well you know about wet wipes
? by Jürgen Eizinger, Lenzing AG
37- Association News : CITI
EDITORIAL TEAM
Editor and Publisher : Ms. Jigna Shah
Chief Editor : Mr. Bhavesh Thakar
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Associate Editor : Mr. Swaminathan
INDUSTRY
Mr. Devchand Chheda : City Editor - Vyapar ( Jan mabhumi Group)
Mr. Manohar Samuel : President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries
Mr. Shailendra Pandey : VP (Head – Sales and Marketing), Indian Rayon
Mr. Ajay Sharma : GM RSWM (LNJ Bhilwara Group)
Mr. Avinash Mayekar : Consulting Editor
Dr. N.N. Mahapatra : Business Head (DYES),
Shree Pushkar Chemicals & Fertilisers Ltd.
Mr. R.D. Udeshi : President- Polyester Chain,
Reliance Industries Ltd.
EDUCATION / RESEARCH
Mr. B.V. Doctor : HOD knitting, SASMIRA
Dr. Ela Dedhia : Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College
Dr. Mangesh D. Teli : Professor, Dean ICT
Mr. R.M. Shankar : Asst. Director, ATIRA
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Advertiser Index
41- Association News : SRTEPC
39- Tamilnadu Textile Policy highlights
41- An incredible story of growth – S.T. Cottex
42- Show Calendar
INTERVIEWS
43- Prakash Awade, Leader of Ichalkaranji, Maharash-
tra, INDIA.
44- Dr. Selvaraju, Secretary General of SIMA
Coimbatore / India
45- Gagandeep Singh, Denim Manufacture Association,
Delhi India
Back Page: Raymond
Back Inside: SAVIO
Front Inside: Raysil
Page 3: Oerlikon
Page 4: Sanjay Plastic
Page 5: LRT
Page 6: SKBS
Page 7: World Traders
Page 8: YARN EXPO Surat
Page 9: Rieter
Page 10: ATE
Page 44: Vora Associates
Page 47: DN Associates
Page 48: Non Woven Tech Asia
Page 49: Amith Garment
Page 50: ITMACH INDIA

‘‘
SUSTAINABILITY AND RECYCLING IS NEW BUZZ IN
DISRUPTIVE ECONOMY..!
Is sustainability leading to more recycling products? Or Due to sustain-
able conscious fashion brands are making more recycling products?
Why conventional textiles manufacturer fear the recycling? Raw mate-
rial like cotton, synthetic fibers are competing their space in the world
market, but slowly regenerated fibers and recycling fibers / products
entering to consumer mind. Dynamic of raw material is shifting to-
wards new avenue.
Today‘s Consumer is driven by fashion and lifestyle, which will involve
lot of creative distraction from manufacturing side, brand owners
mindset and testing of skillset of humans. Companies will be going
from mass manufacturing to mass customization. Creating a value by
making excellent product with optimum utilization of resources is the
Sustainable product. This could be in all the segments from Fiber, yarn,
fabric , processing , garment and retail and human resources. Buyers
are conscious about who are their suppliers for raw material, process-
ing and finished goods and expect complete transparency in entire val-
ue chain process, which is today easily managed by electronic media.
Green Story, Re-use, Recycle is the buzz word of the fashion industry.
Creating a brand story on this words are easy and acceptable in fashion
/environment conscious people. But in India, at mass level still this is
new buzz word / concept.
Living in the disruptive economy, it enables us two opportunities. First,
it allows companies to redefine how and why they work. Such an or-
ganizational awakening then leads into the second opportunity for
companies to adopt: a better way to serve employees who choose to
work there because they believe in the company’s purpose. If you really
think about it, disruption is the very essence of redefining one’s value
proposition, purpose or product. At its core, to disrupt is to end X and
subsequently create Y.
The digital disruption of today compels new thinking and behaviors
that “end” one trend while ironically giving rise to new awakenings
that previously didn’t exist. In other words, with disruption comes the
opportunity for eruption--the closing of one door and the innovative
opening of another; the opportunity to create and proliferate.
We understand that industry will take this disruption in a positive at-
titude and grow to the next height in more meaningful and fruitful way.
Wish you all Constructive New Financial Year..!
A Society is defined not
only by what it creates,
but by what it refuses to
destroy.

’’
Ms. Jigna Shah
Editor and Publisher
EDITORTIAL
- John Swahill

PROCESSING OF ABACA FIBRES IN TEXTILE
INDUSTRIES
Over the last few years , ecological concerns
have initiated a considerable interest in natural materi-
als to produce “ green “ products .The rapidly increasing
environ mental awareness , growing global waste prob-
lem , geometrically increased crude oil prices ( the raw
material of synthetic fibres ) and high processing cost
trigger the development concepts of sustainability and
reconsideration of renewable resources .Asia is blessed
with an abundant and diverse amount of natural fibres .In
addition to the main natural fibres , cotton , linen , wool
and silk , which are used for the manufacture of garments
and fabrics used personally or in the home , there are
a number of other types which are in use but to lesser
extent .The most important of these are ramie , jute , flax
, hemp , abaca ,raffia , buntal ,bicol and nettle fibres .
The Musaceae family of plants is one of the most
useful in the world . It provides us with all manner of
foods and industrial raw materials. Musa sapientum , for
example , gives us the banana . The only distinguishing
feature is that its leaves are skinnier and more upright
than that of a banana . It bears fruit as well , but it is less
adible than bananas . Musa textiles is a source of abaca
fibre or Manila hemp.The abaca plant is indigenous to
the Philippine Islands; native islanders were making tex-
tiles from its fibres when Magellan visited the islands in
1521 during his circumnavigation of the globe . The first
authentic account of the use of either abaca or banana
fibre in the Philippines is that given by an Englishman ,
Dampler ( = William Dampler ) ,who lived in Mindanao in
1686 . During the early 19 th century , supplies of abaca
began to reach the Western world , and its value as a
cordage fibre was quickly appreciated . It was better than
hemp for many purposes , particularly in marine ropes
and hawsers .Abaca was first cultivated on a large scale in
Sumatra in 1925 under the Dutch , who had observed its
cultivation in the Philippines for cordage since the 1800 s
,followed up by plantings in Central America sponsored
by the U.S Department of Agriculture . Commercial plant-
ing began in 1930 in British North Borneo with the com-
mencement of World War II , the supply from the Philip-
pines was eliminated by the Japanese .
Despite the many attempts that have been made to
establish abaca production in other parts of the world ,
the Philippine Islands remain the chief source of the fibre
. Total production in 1977 was 75,000 tonnes , of which
some 85 % came from the Philippines . The remainder
came from Ecuador . Abaca is not only the most impor-
tant fibre , but also the most important export product
of the Philippines .For a number of years this fibre com-
prised approximately two-thirds of the total export trade
of the Islands .
In the commercial world this fibre is known as ‘manila
hemp ‘ or ‘manila ‘. It is often called ‘ hemp ‘ , especially
locally by the English- speaking community , but this
term is both incorrect and misleading , and its use should
be discontinued in favour of the Spanish-Filipino term “
abaca “ . Other common names for abaca include “ Cebu
hemp “ and “ Davao hemp “
PRODUCTION AND PROCESSING
Musa Textilis grows easily in the Philippines and
needs little cultivation . It is also grown widely as well
in Borneo and Sumatra . It is sometimes referred to as
BacBac. .Abaca fibre is obtained from the leaf sheath of
the abaca , Musa Textilis Nee . Abaca is indigenous to the
Phillipines and is similar to banana in appearance ex-
cept that the leaves are upright , pointed , narrower and
more tapering than the leaves of the banana . The plant
is of great economic importance , being harvested for
its fibre , once generally called Manila hemp , extracted
from the leaf sheath around the trunk .To make the fibre
, you have to strip off the outer sheath of the trunk of
the abaca plant and pull out individual fibres that run
the height of the trunk . On average , the plant grows
about 20 feet ( 6 meters ) tall . The leaves grow from the
trunk of the plant , and the bases of the leaves from a
sheath ( covering ) around the trunk ; there are approxi-
mately 25 of these , with 5 cm in diameter and from 12
to 25 leaves with overlapping petioles , covering the stalk
to form a shrub , “ false trunk “ or pseudo trunk about 30
to 40 cm in diameter . They grow in succession , with the
oldest growing from the bottom of the trunk and succes-
sively younger ones from the top . The sheaths contain
the valuable fibre . The coarse fibres range from 5 to 11
feet in length . They are composed primarily of the plant
materials such as
a.Cellulose.
b.Lignin.
c.Pectin
The plant is normally grown in well –drained loamy
soil , using pieces of mature root planted at the start of
the rainy season . Growers harvest abaca fields every
3-8 months after an initial growth period of 18-25 months
and a total lifespan of about 10 years . Harvest generally
includes having several operations concerning the leaf
sheaths . Harvesting abaca is labouious . Each stalk must
be cut into strips which are scraped to remove the pulp .
The fibres are then washed and dried .
Following are the three steps involved ;
1.Tuxying ( separation of primary and secondary sheath
SUSTAINABLE FIBER

2.Stripping ( getting the fibres ).
3.Drying ( usually following tradition of sun –drying .)
The fibres can then be spun into twines or cord-
age . Lupis is the finest quality of abaca . Sinamay is woven
chiefly from abaca . The world ‘s leading abaca producer is
the Philippines , where the plant is cultivated on 130,000ha
by some 90,000 small farmers . While the crop is also cul-
tivated in other Southeast Asian countries , the Philip-
pines ‘ closest rival is Ecuador , where abaca is grown on
large estates and production is increasingly mechanized
.In 2007 , the Phillipines produced about 60,000 tonnes
of abaca fibre , while Ecuador produced 10,000 tonnes .
World production is valued at around 30 million dollars
a year .Almost all abaca produced is exported , mainly to
Europe , Japan and the USA . Exports from the Phillipines
are increasingly in the form of pulp rather than raw fibre .
STRUCTURE AND PROPERTIES
Abaca fibre is considered as the strongest among natural
fibres . It is classified as a hard fibre , along with coir ,
henequen and sisal . The length of the fibre varies from 3
-9 feet or more depending on the height of the plant and
the age of the leafsheath . The colour of the fibre ranges
from ivory white to light and dark brown . Abaca rope is
very durable , flexible and resistant to salt water damage .
Abaca is the premier cordage fibre of the world .It
is a structural ( hard ) fibre obtained from the outer lay-
ers of the overlapping leaf sheaths which form the stalks
of the abaca plant . It is very light ,strong , and durable .
When properly extracted and dried , it is also of white ,
lustrous colour . One particular feature of the abaca fi-
bre which emphasizes its superiority over all other fibres
of its class is its great strength and its resistance to the
action of water , hence its particular adaptability for ma-
rine ropes .Abaca is a leaf fibre , composed of long slim
cells that form part of the leaf’s supporting structure .
Lignin content is a high 15% .Abaca is prized for its great
mechanical strength , buoyancy , resistance to salt wa-
ter damage , and long fibre length – upto 3 m. . The best
grades of abaca are fine , lustrous , light beige in colour
and very strong .
USES OF ABACA FIBRE
During the 19 th century abaca was widely used for
ships’rigging and pulped to make sturdy manila enve-
lopes.
The fibre was originally used for making twines ,ropes
,fishing lines and nets , as well as coarse cloth for sack-
ing . as well as the Manila envelope ; now most abaca
is pulped and used in a variety of paper –like products
including filter paper , tea bags , vacuum bags and bank
notes . It can be used to make handicrafts like bags , car-
pets , clothing and furniture . It is used in rope,hawsers ,
ship’s lines and fishing nets .
Abaca fibre , famous world-wide as Manila Hemp ,
is versatile and flexible in its use .It ‘s principal use ranges
from industrial cordage , handicraft , fashion products
such as hats and accessories , home and houseware and
decorative products .Speciality use includes the manu-
facturing of speciality paper such as in the case of the
Japanese Yen , while Hygienic applications incude the pro-
duction of coffee and tea bags , sausage casing and textile
dye filters . The use of the abaca fibre though is not lim-
ited to those mentioned above. Paper made from abaca
pulp is used in stencil papers , cigarette filter papers , tea
–bags and sausage skins , and also in currency paper (
Japan’s yen bank notes contain up to 30 % abaca )
The spinning mill development department is exploring
the possibility of using abaca fibre with other natural fi-
bre and synthetic blends and making yarn and weaving
into shirtings, suitings and dress materials. There is also
a flourishing niche market for abaca clothing , curtains ,
screens and furnishings .
Mercedes Benz has used a mixture of polypropylene ther-
moplastic and abaca yarn in automobile body parts . Pro-
duction of abaca fibre uses an estimated 60 % less energy
than production of glass fibre .
SUSTAINABLE FIBER
DR. N.N.MAHAPATRA
BUSINESS HEAD (DYES)
SHREE PUSHKAR CHEMICALS & FERTILISERS LTD.

MANAGEMENT OF POST CONSUMER TEXTILE WASTE
Sustainability is a contemporary, meaningful
term and an approach to looking at processes and prod-
ucts. The present consumer tries hard to preserve the
environment and the awareness and responsible attitude
has done wonders for each and every sector. The textile
sector is not the one to be left behind. Organic, green,
Sustainable and Eco friendly, these are some of the terms
being used commonly to tap the rapidly growing desire
among consumers to buy something that causes as little
harm to the environment as possible. If eco is a useful
general term for fabrics and fashion made from sustain-
able production and less polluting manufacturing meth-
ods, then organic is a much more stringent description re-
quiring certification to international standards, whereas,
sustainability or the ability to sustain, may be defined as
development that meets the needs of the present with-
out compromising the ability of future generation to meet
their own needs. The main aim of sustainability is to ex-
tract the maximum benefits from products by extending
their life, before throwing them away. Sustainability has
always targeted the idea of dematerialization, convert-
ing the linear path of materials (extraction, use, disposal
in landfill) to a circular material flow that reuses materi-
als as much as possible, much like the cycling and reuse
of waste in nature. Production of textiles takes a toll on
the environment by using vital resources like water, land,
oil, and also degrades the environment unless suitably
managed in the form of dyeing and printing waste water,
boiler fuel etc. And it is hardly only the resources which
go into production which are responsible for affecting the
environment. The wastage of end product in the form of
used textiles or damaged textiles is equally responsible.
Consumers react to changes in fashion both in cloth-
ing and household interior designs. Seasonal changes
in fashion mean that clothes can become outdated very
quickly, and this encourages the replacement and dispos-
al of outdated, yet good quality garments. Consequently,
manufacturers will increasingly develop high quantities of
low durability clothing in response to a ‘throwaway soci-
ety’. Economic prosperity also influences this trend, as the
production of textiles increases with consumer spending,
so does waste production from both the manufacturing
and household sectors.
Every manufactured garment is supposed to have an av-
erage life span which is considered to be approximately
3-4 years after which the garment is either considered
too old or unfit to be used as it loses its suitability for the
purpose or it becomes out of fashion. Almost half of the
garments we use in daily life are discarded even before
they can be considered unsuitable to be used because of
various other reasons like fashion, size or fit issues. The
maximum amount of textile waste comes from household
sources as the textile waste generated at pre consumer
stage or industrial level are usually utilized in one form
of the other e.g., cutting waste from garment industry is
shredded and utilized as filling in low cost mattresses. The
sheer magnitudes of post consumer textile waste make it
necessary to look for ways to recycle or reuse the textiles
we throw away as wastage. A report suggests that more
than fifty percent of the textiles we discard are recyclable
but only twenty five per cent of the same is recycled or re-
used in some form of the other while the rest goes in do-
mestic waste. Recycling not only saves valuable resources
used to create the product but also provides low cost raw
material for new products which can be made from the
recycled material. But the cost involved in recycling acts
as a hindrance to wide spread adoption of this technique
for creating new products and hence other modes of dis-
posal are usually adopted more frequently.
Textile Waste: Any material of textile origin which is not
considered suitable for its end user can be considered
textile waste. The end user could be a garment manufac-
turer, upholstery designer, carpet manufacturer or the fi-
nal consumer. It could be any industrial waste generated
while manufacturing of fibers, yarns, fabrics or garments
or the household waste created after usage of garments
or textile material by end consumers. Almost all of the in-
dustrial wastage and a majority of household wastage are
recyclable and disposing of the same as wastage should
be our last resort.
Textile waste can be classified as either pre-consum-
er or post-consumer.
Pre Consumer Textile Waste: The waste which consists
of by-products of textile, yarn, fabric or garment produc-
tion and the one which is generated in the textile supply
chain prior to reaching the consumers is considered pre
consumer textile waste. This wastage has various usages
as raw material in automotive industry, furniture, mat-
tresses, home furnishings, paper and other related indus-
tries.
Post Consumer Textile Waste: The textile waste gener-
ated at various levels after usage of the finished product
by end consumer and could be any clothing or household
article which has been discarded or not in use for any
reason like being worn out, damaged or outgrown are
considered as post consumer textile waste. The majority
of this waste comes at household level hence its manage-
ment is an issue as industrial waste is easy to manage in
comparison to household waste.
RECYCLING / SUSTAINABILITY

MANAGEMENT OF TEXTILE WASTE
Textile waste can be managed in a variety of ways quite
successfully so that the usage of our resources can be
minimized. The main methods used for handling of textile
waste are:
1. Reuse
2. Recycle
3. Reclaimed fibers and fabrics
ƒƒ Reuse:
Reusing an item for another purpose instead of the one
for which it was produced and initially utilized is a very
effective method of textile waste management. Reusing
a textile product is always advisable in place of discard-
ing it as it helps save the precious resources. Reuse could
be conventional where an item is used for the same pur-
pose as it was initially intended but by a different user
or it could be new life reuse where the textile product is
utilized for some new purpose. This is an efficient man-
ner to avoid throwing or dumping products in waste
stream. Conventional reuse can be seen in distribution of
used clothing items through charity organizations. Some
supermarkets also launched schemes of purchasing old
clothing items from customers and giving the custom-
ers relevant discount on new purchases. The used cloth-
ing items were further sorted, cleaned and redistributed
through charity shops especially during winter season. As
per an estimate, over seventy per cent of world’s popula-
tion uses second hand clothing making it easy to reuse
clothing items which are fit to be used as is. As for the
rest like the ones which are damaged or torn, and are not
wearable, they can be utilized as rags, cleaning clothes,
mats etc. at home or industrial level. Reuse of textile ma-
terial reduces air and noise pollution by saving the raw
material resources and processes required for making
new items, and saves money on purchase as well as dis-
posal of textile products. Second hand clothing market re-
uses the largest amount of post consumer textiles.
ƒƒ Recycle:
Recycling is the process by which the material is taken
out of a product which has been used up to desired level
and this raw material s then utilized to create an entirely
new product. As per report of an Environment Protection
Agency, ninety seven per cent of the post consumer tex-
tile waste is recyclable. Thus if we take a curtain which we
are no longer using and utilize the fabric to create a quilt
cover, or foot mats, we are recycling the textile material.
The original product acts as a raw material here thus help-
ing in reducing the requirement of energy and other re-
sources or fresh raw material for production of new item.
It is possible to recycle both natural as well as man-made
textiles. It is also possible to recycle a product and creat-
ing a similar product as original, intended for same use
e.g. re-dying and painting some faded curtains to create
a new set of curtains. This process is least expensive and
with minimum effect on the environment and is called
closed loop recycling.
Recycling of post consumer textile waste has various ad-
vantages as it requires less energy and minimum carbon
dioxides emissions as compared to any other type of pro-
cessing. Recycling of synthetic fabric products result in
savings in terms of petroleum, energy and reduction in
emission of green house gases. This is also more relevant
as synthetic textile products are mostly non-biodegrad-
able hence considerable reduction on environment load
is achieved. There are various processes used for recy-
cling of post consumer textile waste. Mainly this waste is
treated by breaking down the fabric to fiber stage by cut-
ting, shredding, carding and other mechanical processes.
This fiber is then used to create an entirely new product.
Shoddy is the term used mainly for recycled wool or knit-
ted products and utilized to create low quality blankets
and mats, felt fabric or filling mattresses etc. The biode-
gradable and absorbent cotton fabric can be recycled to
make rags, wiping cloth, napkins or foot mats and can
also be used to produce new high quality paper thus re-
ducing need of cellulose from wood to create paper. The
embroidered or zari patches from old sarees have been
traditionally used to create quilts, cushion covers and
are still in demand for their aesthetic and rustic appeal
and can be a source of income as well. One of the major
challenges is to find a market for the recycled products
as most of the recycling of post consumer textile waste is
done at household level, but today, there are many stores
promoting sale of recycled products as an environment
friendly gesture.
On a commercial level, recycling involves collection of
material from various sources, mainly as donation from
individuals, through buy back schemes launched periodi-
cally by departmental stores like Big Bazaar, or through
door-to-door collection which is quite prevalent in India.
Panipat city has a cluster of some 200 firms involved in
recycling clothes into yarn and creating various products
like blankets, rugs, mats, cushions covers, throws, top
sheets etc. But this industry is fast receding due to threat
Home Linen made from recycled textile waste

from cheap Chinese cloth flooding the markets which is
quite a bad news for environment.
Purchasing recycled fabric completes the loop. Recycling
can be done in basically three manners.
1.Thermal Recycling involves using the waste for recov-
ering heat energy which is generated by incinerating
the waste material so the thermal energy can be uti-
lized. Though this is a very easy method, it does not
actually recycle the resources and only utilizes ther-
mal energy and should be practiced only for that
waste which is non recyclable.
2. Material Recycling involves recovering of raw mate-
rial from the waste and utilizing the raw material to
create new products. The latest development in this
field is the production of polyester fiber from PET bot-
tles. The recovery of polymers is done to reduce the
requirement of raw material for preparing polyester
fabric. As certain impurities remain in the degraded
polymer solution, at times very bright and clear fabric
colours are hard to obtain.
3. Chemical Recycling is done by the process of recover-
ing the monomers from the waste fiber by the pro-
cess of polymer decomposition and in this process,
the impurities can easily be removed and the quality
can be similar to virgin polyester monomers.
yy Reclaimed Fibers and Fabrics:
Reclaiming fibers is a complicated and expensive process
and involves mechanical breaking down of fabric till fiber
stage. The fabric waste is treated through various means
like cutting, rotating in a drum at high speed and breaking
down the fabric through pins on these drums and other
various processes to breakdown the fabric to its basic unit
of fiber. The natural fiber products are mainly reclaimed
through this process and can be easily used in non woven
fabric preparation or for blending purpose as in the case
of wool fibers as the fiber size becomes relatively small
in this process and is not suitable for weaving purpose.
The manmade fibers are processed through formation
of granules by melting process though this is quite similar
to material recycling process.
Reclaimed fibers can be made from a wide variety of tex-
tile waste and the quality of the end product as well as the
process required for its manufacturing depends on the
type of waste. If the fabric used for reclaiming was of sin-
gle fiber content, comparatively better quality reclaimed
fibers can be obtained while in the case of blended fab-
rics, it is difficult to maintain quality and these fibers are
mainly used for preparing non woven or low quality fab-
rics. Yarns made from reclaimed fibers are also grey or of
dark colour which are not much suitable for use as gar-
ments or household textiles.
It is an encouraging trend that the world is becom-
ing aware of the waste being generated by our various
consumption patterns and consciously taking steps to
prevent wastage at various stages. The designers, busi-
ness organizations as well as nonprofit organizations are
coming forward with various ways to tackle the issue of
waste management to create sustainable environment
for development. The awareness created has also moti-
vated consumers to come forward and contribute in this
field and the current trend of recycle and reuse is a wel-
come step for our environment.
Reference:
• www.texwaste”netwasteguide waste - management &
history types of waste.htm
• Eisele D. (1996), ‘Reclaimed fibres. Characteristics. Back-
ground,’ Melliand Textilberichte, 77, 4, 199–202.
• Mägel M., Mägel M., Bieber B. (1993), ‘First research re-
sults to define a number of selected textile-physical pa-
rameters of reclaimed fibres,’ Kolloquium Reissfaser ’93,
Sächsisches Textilforschungsinstitut e.V. Chemnitz.
• Fischer H., Rettig D., Harig H. (1999), ‘Image processing
to measure the length distribution of reclaimed fibres,’
Melliand Textilberichte, 80, 358–360.
• Bohnhoff A., Petershans J. (2001), ‘Sorting carpets non-
centrally,’ 28th Aachen Textile Conference, Aachen, D 28–
29 November, DWI Reports, 125 (2002), 242–252.
• Anon. (2001), ‘Infinity and beyond. Carpet recycling,’ In-
ternational Carpet Bulletin – (ICB) March, 8–10.
PRERNA KAPILA | B.S. DHILLON
KRISHI VIGYAN KENDRA, AMRITSAR
Bags made from recycled textile waste

Notable Developments in the Flame Retardant Ap-
parel Market
• Lakeland Industries, Inc., a U.S.-based manufacturer of
protective clothing, recently announced its collaboration
with Amazon.com for sales and distribution of its prod-
ucts, which is a part of company’s e-commerce strategy.
• National Safety Apparel, another player in the flame
retardant apparel market, recently announced that it is
expanding its USA-based safety clothing manufacturing
capabilities by acquiring a Chicago-based flame resist-
ant (FR) clothing manufacturer – Rubin Brothers – and its
brand Union Line™.
• A European stakeholder in the flame retardant apparel
market – Ansell Protective Solutions AB -- partnered with
Shigematsu Works Co. Ltd (STS) – a Japanese personal
protection equipment company to cover the marketing,
distribution & after-sales service and maintenance of An-
sell’s products in Japan.
• Carrington Textiles Ltd., a U.K.-based player in the flame
retardant apparel market, announced the launch of a
stretch fabric – the Flameflex 275 – for flame retardant
apparels. The company declared that the use of elastole-
fin fibers for the inclusion of polyester in the stretch fabric
improves abrasion resistance and strength of flame re-
tardant apparels. Furthermore, the company also stated
that the fabric meets accreditations EN11611, EN11612
and EN14116 and can withstand temperatures up to 75
degrees.
Tier I and II Companies Hold over 80% Market Share
The flame retardant apparel market remains highl con-
solidated with tier I and tier II companies accounting for
nearly 30-40% and 40-50% revenue share respectively.
Large-scale and vertically integrated companies in the
flame retardant apparel market continue to have a com-
petitive edge owing to easy accessibility to raw materials.
Furthermore, by diversifying their product range through
increased investments in the R&D facilities, leading com-
panies hold sway over the flame retardant apparel mar-
ket.
Workers’ Safety Regulations on Personal Protective
Equipment Drive Growth of the Flame Retardant Ap-
parel Market
Use of personal protective equipment in high-risk indus-
tries that can pose serious harm to workers’ health is man-
dated by occupational safety organizations across the
world. The Occupational Safety and Health Administra-
tion has developed regulations, such as 29 CFR1910.269,
that mandate employers to provide flame retardant ap-
parels or clothing to employees that are exposed to the
hazards of flames or electric arcs in the work premises.
Worker safety regulations are also being implemented
strictly in developing countries, which has led to a spurt
in flame retardant apparel sales in recent years. These
macro trends are likely to influence flame retardant ap-
parel market in the future.
Stringent Quality Standards and Certification Re-
quirements for Flame Retardant Apparels Influence
Pricing
Taking into consideration the importance of safety fea-
tures of flame retardant apparels, governing bodies have
developed high quality standards for personal protective
equipment to ensure wearer safety. Manufacturers in the
flame retardant apparel market need to comply with reg-
ulatory requirements before marketing and selling their
products.
For example, the European Commission recently intro-
duced the EU Regulation 2016/425 concerning the quality
of personal protection equipment. The NFPA 2113 stand-
ards established by the National Fire Protection Associa-
tion define the safety requirements associated with the
selection, care, use, and maintenance of flame-resistant
garments including flame retardant apparels.
Complying with evolving legal regulations may influence
FLAME RETARDANT APPAREL MARKET FORECAST,
TREND ANALYSIS & COMPETITION TRACKING -
GLOBAL MARKET INSIGHTS 2018 TO 2027
MARKET REPORT

market players to modify their manufacturing strategies,
which is one of the leading factors to impact the produc-
tion cost of flame retardant apparels. Furthermore, tedi-
ous certification and approval procedures make a huge
impact on the pricing, which adds to the manufacturing
challenges for stakeholders in the flame retardant ap-
parel market.
Manufacturers Introduce Flame Retardant Apparels
to Suit Women’s Build
Gender diversity is becoming reality across various indus-
tries as women are foraying into industries such as oil &
gas, chemical, and mining industry. Perpetually increas-
ing percentage of woman employees in these industries
has created new opportunities for protective clothing in-
dustry.
According to the United Nations Economic Commission
for Europe (UNECE), female representation in top oil &
gas companies is around 11%, and this number is like-
ly to increase rapidly in the upcoming years. To gain a
competitive edge in the market, flame retardant apparel
manufacturers are focusing on enhancing functionality,
without compromising on the aesthetics.
Favorable Macroeconomic Factors Induce Momen-
tum in the Market
Flame retardant apparels are among the most important
and most commonly used personal protective equipment
across a wide range of industries. Flame retardant appar-
els find applications in a range of industries, including but
not limited to, oil & gas, building & construction, electron-
ics & electric power generation, automotive, and chemical
industry. The broader developments in these industries
has a significant impact on the fortunes of flame retard-
ant apparel manufacturers.
The recovery in oil prices, infrastructure investment in
Asia Pacific, and relative economic stability in the US have
been instrumental in driving business activity, which in
turn has had a ripple effect on the flame retardant ap-
parel landscape.
Definition
Flame retardant apparels are manufactured using ma-
terials, such as woven, non-woven, or knitted clothing,
which have been treated chemically to give them self-ex-
tinguishing characteristics. However, both, inherent and
treated flame retardant apparels are used in several end-
user industries, depending on the industrial applications.
Flame retardant apparel is an important type of personal
protective equipment used by workers in industries that
pose risk of most serious safety hazards, including oil
& gas, mining, petrochemical, and electronics & electric
power industry.
MARKET REPORT

INDIA’S APPAREL EXPORTERS STRUGGLE TO BREAK
THROUGH MULTIPLE BARRIERS, EVEN AS EXPORTS
APPEAR TO HAVE BOTTOMED OUT
Market Structure
The Fact.MR report divides the flame retardant apparel
market into its five broad sub-segments – regions, prod-
uct types, apparel types, clothing types, and end-uses.
Based on geographical regions, the flame retardant ap-
parel market is segmented into North America, Latin
America, Europe, Japan, Asia Pacific region excluding Ja-
pan (APEJ), and the Middle East & Africa (MEA).
Based on the product types of flame retardant apparels,
the flame retardant apparel market is segmented into
two categories – inherent flame retardant apparels and
treated flame retardant apparel. Based on the types of
flame retardant apparel, the flame retardant apparel
market is segmented into woven flame retardant ap-
parels, non-woven flame retardant apparels, and knitted
flame retardant apparels.
According to the clothing types, the flame retardant ap-
parel market is segmented into two categories – durable
clothing and disposable clothing. According to the end-
uses of flame retardant apparel, the flame retardant ap-
parel market is segmented into oil & gas, petrochemi-
cal, mining, power, electronic & electrical, automotive &
transportation, building & construction, and federal &
state departments.
Research Methodology
By following this unique research methodology, analysts
can reach conclusions associated with the growth pros-
pects of the market throughout the period 2018-2027. A
holistic approach of market research methodology is fol-
lowed by analysts at Fact.MR while carrying out a thor-
ough research on the flame retardant apparel market.
The report provides readers with unique and accurate
conclusions about the historic and recent development in
the flame retardant apparel market.
The comprehensive information featured in the report
is obtained at the end of detailed secondary market re-
search and primary market research on the historical
and current growth parameters of the flame retardant
apparel market. Secondary research on the flame retard-
ant apparel elucidates the historical and current facts and
industry-validated information about the flame retardant
apparel market. Primary research is conducted after sec-
ondary research, where market leaders, including sup-
pliers, manufacturers, distributors, and investors, in the
flame retardant apparel market are interviewed.
The accuracy and authenticity of the qualitative and
quantitative information on how the flame retardant ap-
parel market will grow during 2018-2027 is ensured by
the unique research methodology followed by Fact.MR
analysts.
MARKET REPORT
Pace of recovery likely to remain muted considering the challenging environment
India’s apparel exports are estimated to de-grow by 4-5%
in FY2019, following a similar de-growth of ~4% in FY2018
and modest growth rates of 1% and 3% in FY2016 and
FY2017 respectively. While a reversal in trend has been
witnessed in the recent months with a 14% Y-o-Y growth
in India’s apparel exports in Q3 FY2019, the growth is
overstated considering a sharp decline reported during
Q3 FY2018, amid downward revision in export incentives
under the GST regime. As a result, India’s apparel exports
in Q3 FY2019 remained lower than the average quarterly
exports during the past five years. Having said that, ICRA
expects the trend to have bottomed out and recovery
to set in with internal challenges and abrupt pressures
subsiding, though the pace of recovery is likely to remain
muted considering the challenging environment.
Commenting on the subdued industry trend, Mr. Jayanta

Roy, Senior Vice-President and Group Head, ICRA, says,
“The decline in India’s apparel exports in FY2019 so far
has been primarily driven by a sharp inexplicable decline
witnessed in shipments to the United Arab Emirates (UAE)
from July 2017 onwards. Yet, the trend otherwise also has
not been encouraging. If the trade with UAE is excluded,
India’s apparel exports stood flat (vis-à-vis a 7% decline
in India’s overall apparel exports) in 10M FY2019. As this
weakness coincides with a time when the global apparel
trade has shown signs of positive momentum, it remains
a cause of concern.”
As for the global apparel trade, the same expanded for
the second consecutive year in CY2018 (refers to Calendar
Year) with a Y-o-Y growth of ~3%, following a 2% growth
in CY2017 in US$ terms and contractions reported earlier
in CY2015 and CY2016. The positive trend during the last
two years has been led by the strong recovery in apparel
imports by the European Union (EU), which accounts for
almost two-fifth of the global apparel trade (including the
trade within EU) and reported a growth of 5.8% in CY2018.
Unlike the EU, apparel imports by the United States of
America (US) remain muted with a 2% growth in CY2018,
though the trend has improved during the past two years.
As per ICRA note, India continues to experience head-
winds in the form of intense competitive pressures from
nations having a cost advantage over India, which seem
to be constraining the overall momentum of the apparel
export sector of India.
“While China – the world’s largest apparel manufacturer
and exporter, continues to shed market share in the glob-
al trade, India has not been able to capitalise on the op-
portunity. Instead, a large chunk has been garnered by
Bangladesh and Vietnam, the second and the third larg-
est apparel exporting nations globally. While Bangladesh
has been the key beneficiary in the EU, Vietnam has main-
tained growth in its stronghold market of the US.”, adds
Roy.
The concerns are heightened by the developments in the
international trade including allegations of the US against
certain export subsidy schemes in India as well as pro-
gress on certain large free trade agreements (FTA) which
can materially alter the global trade dynamics. The most
prominent amongst these is the Comprehensive and
Progressive Trans Pacific Partnership (CP TPP), which is
the third largest free trade area in the world by GDP. By
mid-January 2019, the agreement had entered into force
between seven of the eleven nations. Even though there
is some respite for India considering that the leading ap-
parel importing regions are not yet a part of the CP TPP,
any incremental developments on this front could prove
to be a potential threat as it could considerably strength-
en Vietnam’s competitiveness. Another FTA being closely
watched is the EU-Vietnam FTA. Conclusion of the FTA can
weaken India’s competitive positioning in one of the key
apparel markets, accounting for ~37% of India’s apparel
exports in CY2018. This can be corroborated from the fact
that Bangladesh, which enjoys a duty-free access to the
EU market since 2001 under the Generalised Scheme of
Preferences, has been able to expand its market share in
EU from less than 7% in 2001 to ~20% at present, while
India has been able to barely maintain its share at ~6-7%.
ICRA research also notes that a sample of large, listed,
domestic as well as export-focused garment-manufactur-
ing companies has continued to perform well, reporting
a 13% (YoY) growth in Q3 FY2019, following the similar
average growth rate during the previous four quarters.
ICRA believes that presence in the niche and value-added
product segments, together with access to an established
client base has helped export-based companies to main-
tain revenue growth, in contrast to the broad industry
trend. This, together with a revival in domestic demand,
particularly in metros and tier-I markets where the larger
listed players are predominantly present, translated into
a healthy growth for ICRA’s sample during the current fi-
nancial year. Besides, favourable currency movement and
healthy growth in revenues facilitated an improvement in
margins in the recent quarters, given the operating lever-
age inherent in the operations. Supported by better mar-
gins, the aggregate interest cover for ICRA’s sample also
improved, averaging ~5.7 times in 9M FY2019 vis-a-vis
~5.0 times in 9M FY2018.
Going forward, steps taken by the Government of India
to address the challenges, will remain crucial for a broad-
based recovery across the sector. This also remains criti-
cal for the domestic apparel exporters to capitalise on the
revived global apparel trade as well as the continuing loss
of market share by China, which opens up a lucrative op-
portunity for key players such as India, Vietnam and Bang-
ladesh.
For further information, please contact:
Basic textiles export declines sharply in January
MARKET REPORT
BY ICRA
“ “If you really want to be successful, stop worrying about what
your can get and start focusing on what you can do.

BASIC TEXTILES EXPORT DECLINES SHARPLY IN
JANUARY
Cotton export slumps in January
Cotton exports shipment slumped 43% to 7.9 lakh bales
(170 kg each) in January as against 12.4 lakh bales export-
ed in the same month of previous marketing year (2017-
18). In January, cotton shipment value declined sharply by
33% YoY. In terms of unit value realization, the average
for January was US cents 81.58 per pound. This implies a
jump in unit prices realisation of 8% to average INR125.84
per kg. During the month, domestic spot prices for bench-
mark Gujarat Shankar-6 averaged US cents 77.17 per
pound while global spot benchmark, the Cotlook ‘A’ index
averaged US cents 82.44 per pound.
Bangladesh was the largest importer of Indian cotton in
January, followed by China and Vietnam. Pakistan was
the fourth largest importer of Indian cotton during the
month.
Spun yarn export down 6% in January on lower price re-
alisation
In January, shipment of fibre, spun and filament yarn de-
clined sharply by 24% in US$ terms and 16% in INR terms.
Total shipment during the month were at US$644 million
or INR4,509 crore.
Spun yarns shipment totaled 96 million kg (down 6%)
worth US$280 million (down 11%) implying an average
unit value realization of US$2.91 per kg, down US cents 8
compared to previous month and US cents 17 from a year
ago average. Meanwhile, the INR against the US$ weak-
ened to INR70 this January, which although augurs well
for ex-ports but hate to be realised. China was the largest
buyer of spun yarns, topping both in terms of volume and
value.
Cotton yarn export was at 79 million kg worth US$233 mil-
lion (INR1,630 crore), 9.5% down from previous year’s lev-
el in US$ terms. 67 countries imported cotton yarn from
India at an average price of US$2.97 a kg, down US cents
5 from previous month and US cents 20 from a year ago.
China has started importing more cotton yarn from In-
dia in volume and value terms. In January, the year on
year increase was 51% in US$ terms. China was followed
by Bangladesh with volume and value declining by about
18% over the year. Egypt and Portugal were the other ma-
jor importers of cotton year, with former recording 14%
in-crease and latter falling 47%. 18 countries did not im-
port any cotton yarn from India this January as they had
im-ported yarn worth US$3.2 million in the same month
last year. However, they were replaced by 10 other coun-
tries which imported yarn worth US$0.75 million.
Algeria, South Africa, Slovenia and United Kingdom were
among top fastest importers of cotton yarn in January
while Syria, Uganda, Ukraine, Iran and United Arab Emir-
ates significantly reduced their imports compared to last
year.
100% man-made fibre yarns exports declined sharply
by 7% in January, comprising 3.8 million kg of polyester
yarn, 1.4 million kg of viscose yarn and 1.3 million kg of
acrylic yarn. Polyester yarn exports declined 18% in US$
term while viscose yarn exports value increased 7% dur-
ing the month. Acrylic yarn exports were down 3% during
the month.
Polyester spun yarns worth US$9 million were exported
to 45 countries at average unit price of US$2.36 a kg,
down US cents 20 compared to last month and up US
cents 3 from last year. Turkey was the largest importer of
polyester yarn, followed by USA and Egypt.
Viscose yarn worth US$4.9 million or INR34 crore was ex-
ported in January at an average price of US$3.40 per kg.
Bangladesh was the top importer worth US$1 million, fol-
lowed by Belgium and Turkey. USA was the fourth largest
importer of viscose yarn during the month.
Blended spun yarns worth US$31 million were exported
YARN REPORT

COTTON SNAPSHOT: FEBRUARY 2019
MCX February Cotton Futures closed the month Rs.
20,080 per bale a decline of 2%. The cotton market
turned uninteresting during the month in line with global
cotton markets where volumes and prices witnessed a
decline. Markets remained uncertain due to the ongoing
trade tensions between the US and China impacting in-
ternational trade.
Lack of buying interests continued to remain in the Indi-
an markets despite strengthening INR and news of short
crop from the neighbouring country. Sluggish demand
for yarn arising out uncertain global economic and trade
conditions seemingly influenced the cotton demand and
hence the prices.
New cotton production estimates for 2018-19 by Cotton
Association of India reduced estimated cotton produc-
tion to 33 million bales from the initial estimates of 40m
Indian Co�on Balance Sheet
2018-19 Es�mate* 2018-19 (Oct-Jan)
Par�culars (in lakh b/s) (in’000 Tons) (in lakh b/s) (in '000 Tons)
Supply
Opening Stock 23 391 23 391
Crop/Arrival 330 5610 170.32 2895.44
Imports 27 459 5.48 93.16
Total Supply 380 6460 198.8 3379.6
Demand
Domes�c Demand 316 5372 174.8 2971.6
Exports 50 850 24 408
Closing Stock 14 238 - -
Source: CAI Report; *Es�mated as on 31st
January 2019
MCX Co�on Deriva�ves
at a Glance
Vola�lity
Feb-19 0.71%
YTD 2019 0.63%
Turnover (crs)
Feb-19 4,454
YTD 2019 8,427
Avg Volume ('000 bales)
Feb-19 4,350
YTD 2019 7,646
Avg OI ('000 bales)
Feb-19 1,505
YTD 2019 2,734
Delivery ('000 bales)
Feb-19 41
YTD 2019 80
Stocks ('000 bales)
As on
Feb 28, 2019
178
Indian Co�on Balance Sheet
2018-19 Es�mate* 2018-19 (Oct-Jan)
Par�culars (in lakh b/s) (in’000 Tons) (in lakh b/s) (in '000 Tons)
Supply
Opening Stock 23 391 23 391
Crop/Arrival 330 5610 170.32 2895.44
Imports 27 459 5.48 93.16
Total Supply 380 6460 198.8 3379.6
Demand
Domes�c Demand 316 5372 174.8 2971.6
Exports 50 850 24 408
Closing Stock 14 238 - -
Source: CAI Report; *Es�mated as on 31st
January 2019
COTTON REPORT
By- MCX INDIA
in January, down 24% YoY. During the month, 6.2 million
kg of PC yarns was exported worth US$16 million while 3.1
million kg of PV yarns were exported worth US$8 million.
Egypt, Bangladesh and Turkey, were the largest importers
of PC yarn from India while Turkey was the single largest
importer of PV yarns from India followed distantly by Italy.
Shipment of all kinds of filament yarns totaled 51 million
kg, valued at US$89 million (both down 23%. YoY)
bales. However, it was noteworthy that even reduced in-
dustry estimates could not induce buying interests with
Indian cotton moving further down by Rs100 per candy
(356 lb) following the bearish production data release.
19700
19900
20100
20300
20500
20700
20900
21100
21300
21500
01 Feb 06 Feb 11 Feb 14 Feb 19 Feb 22 Feb 27 Feb
Co�on(Rs/Bale)
Co�on Price Movemnt*
*MCX nearmonth
NITIN MADKAIKAR
Textile Beacon Global Info Services
nitin@textilebeacon.com
YARN REPORT

According to the market report published by Future Mar-
ket Insights titled ‘Fabric Care Market: Global Industry
Analysis 2013-2017 and Opportunity Assessment 2018-
2027,’ the revenue generated from fabric care is estimat-
ed to be valued at over US$ 90,658.6 Mn in 2018, which is
projected to increase at a CAGR of 5.9% during the fore-
cast period (2018-2027).
Fabric care detergents, a product type segment, is pro-
jected to gain significant growth in the global fabric care
market owing to the increasing use of liquid fabric care
products, rise in the adoption of washing machines in
developing countries, frequent launch of new fabric care
products that are compatible with various types of wash-
ing machines and the ease of use associated with liquid
fabric care detergents as compared to soaps, bars and
blocks are some of the key factors driving the demand for
fabric care products across the globe. Moreover, rapidly
growing population, increasing per capita expenditure on
household cleaning products, expanding global FMCG in-
dustry and the growing trend of hygienic personal care
are also among factors that are expected to boost the de-
mand for fabric care products during the forecast period.
Companies in the fabric care market are adopting various
marketing strategies to increase their market share, rev-
enue, penetration and customer base. For instance, vari-
ous players offer combo deals, which helps boost their
sales & generate profits, product innovation to create loy-
alty to the brand and the introduction of various products
in same product category for different user groups are
some of the factors contributing to the global growth of
the fabric care market. Moreover, packaging plays an im-
portant role in protecting and extending the shelf life of a
wide range of FMCG products, thus, nowadays, consum-
ers are not only concerned about buying natural & green-
label home care, personal care and fabric care products,
but are also demanding environment-friendly packaging.
Thus, growing consumer expectations for eco-friendly
packaging and consciousness about the detrimental ef-
fects of fabric care containers and plastic packaging on
the environment are projected to accelerate the growth
of the natural fabric care market worldwide. Moreover,
the frequent launch of fabric care products that target
specific customers, coupled with increasing demand for
green products, is creating considerable opportunities in
the global fabric care market.
The global fabric care market is segmented on the basis
of regions, which include North America, Latin America,
Asia Pacific Excluding Japan (APEJ), Europe, Middle East
& Africa and Japan. Among all the regions, the Asia Pa-
cific excluding Japan and Europe regions are estimated to
have a substantial value share. In terms of value, APEJ is
the most attractive region in the global fabric care market,
and is expected to grow at a CAGR of 6.9% over the fore-
cast period. In the global fabric care market, the region is
expected to gain 278 BPS during the forecast period.
On the basis of product type, the fabric care market is
segmented into fabric detergents, fabric softeners/en-
hancers, stain removers/bleach and other fabric care
products. In 2018, the fabric detergents segment ac-
counted for the highest revenue share of 48.7% in the
global fabric care.
Key Players in the Global Fabric Care Market
Detailed profiles of companies are also included in the
global fabric care market report to evaluate their perfor-
mance, key product offerings and recent developments.
Some of the key players profiled in the global fabric care
market study include Alicorp S.A.A.; S.C. Johnson & Son
Inc.; Reckitt Benckiser Group PLC; LG Household & Health
Care Ltd.; Golrang Industrial Group; Wings Corporation;
Whealthfields Lohmann Guangzhou Ltd.; RSPL Limited;
Church & Dwight Co., Inc.; Lion Corporation; Nice Group
Co., Ltd.; Kao Corporation; Fabrica de Jabon La Corona; SA
de CV; Henkel AG & Co. KGaA; Unilever PLC; Guangzhou
Blue Moon Industry Co., Ltd.; Procter & Gamble Co.; Am-
way Corporation; Guangzhou Liby Enterprise Group Co.,
Ltd. and others.
By Future Market Insights
FABRIC CARE MARKET REVENUE IS EXPECTED TO
SURPASS US$ 151,726.3 MN BY 2027
FABRIC CARE REPORT

Holi and General Elections : Surat
textile industry to face labour short-
age
The Production in Surat-based synthetic textile industry
will remain down upto three months starting from mid
March. As thousands of migrant workers head home for
festival of Holi, the shortage of workers in textile industry
becomes a major worry. The industry will take a produc-
tion hit of more than 30% due to shortage of manpower.
Beside Holi, this year the upcoming general elections has
its repercussions on the industry. Workers who usually go
on leave for Holi tend to return by last week of March or
first week of April. However, according to textile industry
sources, many of the workers are not likely to return be-
fore May leading to acute labour shortage.
The total workforce employed by fabric manufacturing,
weaving and processing units in the textile industry in Su-
rat stands at around eight lakh., most of which hail from
states like Orissa, Bihar, UP and Maharasthra, among oth-
ers, are on an exodus to their homes. “The fabrics pro-
duction is already down by 30 per cent. More than 2 lakh
workers have gone on leave for Holi. But this year is dif-
ferent. With general elections coming up, workers have
hinted they won’t return before May since they want to
stay back for voting,” said Sameerbhai, a Powerloom unit
owner in Udhna Industrial area of the city.
Sources said, already 20-30 per cent of labourers have left
while more are expected to leave in the coming days. The
labour shortage also comes at a time when the industry,
which markets fabric as well as ready made garments
including sarees and dress materials, is in the middle of
heavy orders for the upcoming marriageseason. By the
time of elections, industry players fear almost 50 per cent
workers to be on leave. Apart from voting in elections, the
workforce is also likely to extend their leaves for the wed-
ding season which falls in the month of April-May in their
respective home states.
Textile minister Smriti Irani appeals
to take advantage of fashion fore-
casting lab
“The government has launched the industry’s first fashion
forecasting lab service with the help of NIFT in New Delhi.
This service is based on the premise that fashion is a dy-
namic industry which depends on seasonal trends and
forecast. As Surat is a hub of saree, the entrepreneurs of
the city should get benefit of this lab to create an indig-
enous fashion forecasting service.” Textile minister Smriti
Irani appeals textile community after inauguration of the
Rs 300 crore Karanj Textile Park here on last week.
Irani said, Till now, the textile industry was dependent
on the international fashion trend forecasting. The aim
of the new centre is to find Indian fashion trends. With
the help of fashion forecasting center service, Surti tex-
tile entrepreneurs could contribute hugely to such initia-
tive under VisionNXT. The centre will use data generated
from the industry, retailers and its own alumni and ana-
lyse them using artificial intelligence platform to identify
trends across the country.
Irani also appreciated the environment concerns at the
textile parks in South Gujarat where the country’s first
zero liquid dicahrge (ZLD) has been set up at the Gujarat
Eco Textile Park (GETP) at Palsana under the Integrated
Power Development Scheme (IPDS) scheme of the Cen-
tral Government. The waste water from CETP plant in Pal-
sana will be recycled through the ZLD plant project where
more than 92% of the quantity will be recycled and sent
to park members for process requirement.
New scheme for knitwear sector will
enhance production and employ-
ment
The Textile Ministry has launched a comprehensive
Scheme for the development of the knitwear sector under
PowerTex India. The scheme will help to enhance produc-
tion in Surat based warp knitting sector. With the installed
capacity of over 1,000 machines, Surat has emerged as a
warp knitting sector. The annual turnover of warp knitting
sector in the city is pegged at Rs1,000 crore.
According to Synthetic & Rayon Textiles Export Promotion
Council (SRTEPC), knitted fabrics contribute 27% of the
total fabric production in the country and 15% of them
are exported. The New scheme for knitting and knitwear
sector would mostly benefit MSME, which comes under
decentralized sector and that it would give a major fillip to
employment generation in the kitting sector in the coun-
try.
SRTEPC chairman Narain Aggarwal said, The objective of
the scheme is to set up new service centres on PPP model
by industry associations, modernization and upgradation
of existing power loom service centres. It would also help
group workshed scheme, yarn bank, common facility cen-
tre, Pradhan Mantri credit scheme etc. The MSME units
involved in knitting sector in Surat and across the country
will be benefited.
The yarn bank scheme for knitting and knitwear units will
provide an interest-free corpus fund of a maximum of up
to Rs 2 crore. The Bank would enable small knitting and
knitwear units to purchase the yarn at wholesale rate and
in large quanitites. The warp knitted fabrics are exten-
sively used for sportswear, lingerie, shoes, car seat covers
and mattresses along with technical textiles like automo-
bile filtration, lining and pocketing mesh.
SURAT REPORT

MICROENCAPSULATION IN TEXTILE FINISHING
ABSTRACT
The textile roots of microencapsulation technology were
introduced as were the wide range of applications in food
and other business sectors. In microencapsulation in gen-
eral the number of commercial applications in the textile
industry continues to grow particularly in the textile in-
dustries of Western Europe, Japan and North America.
The move by the more developed countries into textiles
with new properties and added value, into medical textile
and technical textiles for example has encouraged the in-
dustry to use microencapsulation processes as a means
of imparting finishes and properties on textiles which
were not possible or cost-effective using other technol-
ogy. Textile manufacturers are demonstrating increasing
interest in the application of durable fragrances to tex-
tile as well as skin softeners. Other potential applications
include, insect repellents, dyes, vitamins, antimicrobials,
phase change materials and in specific medical applica-
tions, antibiotics, hormones and other drugs. Examples
of each technology are described. A short summary of a
new microencapsulation technology with roots in the tex-
tile industry, is provided.
KEYWORDS: Microencapsulation; Textiles; Fragrance;
Phase-change materials.
INTRODUCTION:
yy Microencapsulation
Small is better” would be an appropriate slogan for the
microencapsulation, a process in which tiny particles or
droplets are surrounded by a coating to give small cap-
sules with many useful properties. The material inside the
microcapsule is referred to as the core, internal phase or
fill, whereas the wall is sometimes called a shell, coating
or membrane. Most microcapsules have diameters of few
micrometres.
The reasons for microencapsulation are countless. In
some cases, the core must be separated from its sur-
roudings, as in isolating vitamins from the deteriorating
effects of oxygen, retarding evaporation of a volatile core,
improving the handling properties of a sticky material, or
isolating a reactive core from chemical attack. In other
cases the objective is not to separate the core completely
but to control the rate at which it leaves the microcap-
sules as in the controlled release of drugs or pesticides.
Manufacturing costs are based on coating material, sol-
vent, equipment and labor. Coating-material prices vary
greatly, and as a rule, the cheapest acceptable material
is used. Coatings that can be applied without solvent or
water are preferred. Enviromental and safety regulations
greatly increase the cost of process that use volatile or-
ganic solvents.
yy Objectives of Encapsulation
Encapsulation of active ingredients for a wide range of
industries is carried out for one or more of the following
purposes:
ƒƒ Rendering liquids into powders to prevent clumping
and improve mixing.
ƒƒ Protecting active ingredients from oxidation, heat,
acidity, alkalinity, moisture or evaporation.
ƒƒ Preventing ingredients from interacting with other
compounds in the system, this may result in degrada-
tion or polymerization.
ƒƒ Masking the taste of unpleasant flavors or odors.
ƒƒ Improving the handling of an ingredient before pro-
cessing.
ƒƒ Release active chemicals in a controlled or targeted
fashion.
ƒƒ Protecting workers or end users from exposure to haz-
ardous substances.
yy Microcapsules Structure
Microcapsule consists of two parts, viz. the core and the
wall material. The typical range of capsule content is 70
to 99% nucleus material by weight. This corresponds to
a capsule wall thickness of about 0.1-200um Different
shapes of micro capsules is shown in
The content of capsules can be made available by me-
chanical rupture of the capsule wall, by causing its disinte-
gration by electrical or mechanical means or by leaching
action carried out in an appropriate liquid environment.
Microcapsules range in diameter from 1 to 1000 um; cap-
sules greater than 1000 um can be called microcapsules
and those smaller than 1 um are called nanocapsules.
yy CHARACTERISTICS
The following are the characteristics of a microcapsule:
• Size and size distribution
Low size increases the mechanical strength as also ease
of application
• Loading fraction
This is the weight ratio of core to wall of the microcapsule,
the higher is this ratio the better is the production effi-
ciency but poorer would be the
stability.
• Release properties
Rate of release from microcapsules depends largely on
the structure of the polymer wall, which in turn is influ-
TEXTILE PROCESSING

enced by the conditions employed in the preparation.
Wall characteristics like crystallinity, cross-link density
and porosity play a big role in determining the release
rate. As the crystallinity and cross-link density of the wall
increases, the release rate reduces substantially.
• Thermal stability
The microcapsule during its formation and application
should be stable at higher temperatures.
APPLICATION OF MICROCAPSULES IN TEXTILES
The move by move developed consumer demands for
textiles with new characteristics and added value into
medical and technical fields has encouraged the industry
to use microencapsulation processes as a means of im-
parting finishes and properties to fabrics which were not
possible or cost-effective using other technology. Textile
manufacturers are demonstrating increasing interest in
the application of durable fragrances to textile as well as
skin softeners; other potential application includes insect
repellents, dyes, antimicrobials, phase change materials.
yy Micro-Encapsulation In Finishing
Micro-encapsulation of Flame Retardants Textile coat-
ing with polyurethane resin on cotton or cotton-polyester
fabrics provides the fabrics, properties such as abrasion
resistance, water repellency, etc. which has application in
many fields such as transportation industry, garments,
furniture, but these polyurethane coatings have a bad
flame retardancy. Microencapsules of di-ammonium
hydrogen phosphate with polyurethane shell has been
evaluated as fire retardant intumescent agent in a com-
mercial polyurethane coating for textiles. This is achieved
by melt spinning and interfacial polymerization. New ap-
proaches are developed at Gemtex for flame retarding
textiles. Micro-encapsulation of phosphates as intumes-
cent additives, PU/clay hybrid as FR coating, PA-6/clay
nanocomposite as FR yarn and blends of wool with high
performance Fibres as heat and fire resistant barriers are
investigated.4
yy Micro-encapsulation in Medical Application
Micro-encapsulation has also found use in aromatherapy.
Aromatherapy is the practice of applying and inhaling es-
sential oils from plants as a physical and emotional boost
to the body. An aromatherapy product manufactured
by Kanebo is marketed under the trade name Esprit de
Fleurs. Agatex has developed a technology to microen-
capsulate functional oils like the vitamins and Aloe Vera
plant extract and use in textile finishing. It gives energetic
balance to human body and also makes the fabric soft
and comfortable. Number of companies has developed a
technology of microencapsulating liposomes on the tex-
tile substrate which would yield controlled and targeted
release of anti-cancer and anti-fungal drugs.
yy Micro-encapsulation of Anti-microbial agents
Anti-microbial agents are incorporated with the textile
material to prevent the transmission of pathogenic mi-
croorganisms. In addition to this, antimicrobial finishes
should be capable of counter attacking the development
of odour from the bacterial decomposition of perspira-
tion in clothing. Yeast cells containing biocide or insecti-
cide have been applied to cotton, cotton wool and wool
fabric. Fabrics with biocide filled yeast have been success-
fully tested as per AATCC Test method 100, a microbial
challenge test. Mothproof agents have also been encap-
sulated in yeast and applied to wool fabric is also shown
in figure.2.
Figure.2. SEM of Wool, Yeast cells containing insecticide
yy Micro-encapsulation of fragrance
Our sense of smell is the strongest of our 5 senses; it is the
one sense which does not rest even when we sleep. When
our nose detects a change in the atmosphere around us it
draws on our brains a vast memory bank to identify that
change. Once identified we may be excited, soothed, re-
laxed, comforted, refreshed, revitalised or even alarmed.
Utilising the sense of smell by building a fragrance into a
textile or garment can stimulate a powerful and emotive
sense. Fragrances can range from fine fragrances, florals,
fruits, and malodour counteractants until aromatherapy.
yy Body odour, Freshness Technology Fragrances for tex-
tiles
When we sweat our body chemicals mix with bacteria,
which produce enzymes. It is these enzymes, which lead
to the formation of body odour. Freshness Technology
fragrances are fragrances that smells good and actively
tackles body odours.Quest offers a number of different
patented technological routes to achieve an extra fresh-
ness in textiles. Each of these routes, whilst working on
different principles, will actively tackle any bad smells
rather than just masking them. All their freshness tech-
nology fragrances are created using only the normal
perfumery ingredients conforming to the highest safety
standards as set out in the fragrance regulatory bodies
TEXTILE PROCESSING

such as IFRA and RIFM. Expert panels and clinical and con-
sumer testing facilities are in place to validate the fresh-
ness achieved with the use of their freshness Technology
Fragrances.
yy Skincare Active Ingredients for Fabrics
Adding skin benefits to a textile is achievable by applying
encapsulated moisturisers, essential oils, certain vitamins
and even insect repellent. The use of encapsulated cos-
metic oils is especially recommended to add skin benefits
to hosiery, nightwear and sports wear. Aleo Vera has been
known for centuries as the medical plant whose proper-
ties contain a wide range of healing benefits.Today the
extract from the Aloe plant is a population constituent of
cosmetic preparations. Throughout the world today there
are some 600-700 different varieties of aloe. The most
widely used in cosmetic industry is Aleo Barbadensis. Its
common names are First aid plant or Medicine plant.
The plant grows wild in Barbados, Jamaica, Puerto Rica, in
the southern USA, Central America, Mediterranean coun-
tries, India and other tropical and sub tropical regions.
Aloe Vera gel is extracted from the inner tubular leaf cells
of the Aloe Vera leafs. The main constituents of Aloe Vera
are amino sugars, amino acids, enzymes, inorganic salts,
monosaccharides, mucopolysaccharides, sterols, triter-
penoids and vitamins. The use of Aloe Vera in cosmetics
is especially recommended because of its positive effects
on skin.
Benefits of Aloe Vera:
• Bacteriostatic effect
• Anti inflammatory effect
• Moisturising effect
• Regenerate and promotes suppleness of the skin
• Protects, soothes and cares for the skin
• Beneficial effect on the blood circulation
Insect repellents
Menthoglycol is a natural insect repellent active ingredi-
ent, derived from lemon eucalyptus, which is a natural
and renewable source. Testing of Menthoglycol with a
moderately aggressive cage population of Aedes aegypti
mosquitoes resulted in no bites up to at least 4 hours. This
indicates that the product has unusual repellency Fabrics
treated three months previous with microencapsulated
menthol glycol completely repelled foraging mosquitoes
in nature, in exposure conducted over a four hour period.
This finding is consistent with those obtained with the
same fabric at about one week after its treatment with
the test material. The result indicates that mentholglycol
persisted on the fabric for the three-month storage pe-
riod. Concordant with this view, rubbing of the fabric re-
leased the menthol glycol.
In summary the outcome of this test certainly suggests
that micro encapsulation may greatly extend the effective
lifespan of the mentholglycol insect repellent.
Commercial opportunities
Imagine the functionality of body odour counteractancy
coupled with your choice of a smell specially designed to
reinforce your concept to the consumer. All the freshness
technology fragrances are bespoke and are created by
perfumers to echo the emotional benefits of your brand.
Perhaps you or your customer may wish to have a sig-
nature fragrance developed specifically for your product
range. Fragrance in a product or promotion leads to an
improvement of sales. As example, post cards were re-
cently used in a promotion for a new oral hygiene prod-
uct. The promotion used a redemption or discount vouch-
er. A typical increase in sales would be between 0.8 & 2
percent. By using the product fragrance on the promo-
tional material this was increase to 8 percent. The second
example is a promotion for Radion detergent for Lever
Brothers, where the product fragrance was used on pro-
motional material; sales were raised by 13 percent. There
are several novelty markets for fragrance usage; just one
example is the children’s markets. 30 % of women are un-
able to wear hosiery due to the nature of the garment
which dries their skin. Applying micro-encapsulated Aloe
Vera to the hosiery during the wet processing of manu-
facture overcomes this problem and opens up a poten-
tially enormous new market. One of Coalescence’s clients
is currently using in excess of 1 tonne of encapsulated
Aloe Vera per month just for this application.
Micro-encapsulation leads to a lot of opportunities which
could result in an increase of sales and market share. The
challenge to compete in the high competitive textile mar-
ket can be accomplished by diversification and by obtain-
ing a first mover advantage in the development and the
commercialisation of new innovative textiles with a real
and functional added value to the customer.
Most frequently used wall materials are urea formalde-
hyde and various forms of gelatin in micro-encapsulation
of fragrance. The capsule size should be small conven-
tionally. Fragrant fibrous materials have also been pro-
duced by Kanebo that consist of perfumes bound to a
variety of fibres using a low temperature reactive orga-
nopolysiloxane resin. As silicone binders are used, no
unpleasant odours of binders interfere with the desired
fragrance. Proctor & Gamble has prepared microcapsules
using urea formaldehyde as the shell material containing
perfumes or deodorant material. Welbeck Fabrics intro-
duced scented fabrics CX series. These fabrics have wide
range of scents and also lasting upto 40 washing cycles.
Microcapsules has been developed and manufactured by
RT Dodge for several years. The company also claimed
that microcapsules survive upto 8 – 20 washing cycles and
are strong to conventional tumble-dryers. Celessence In-
ternational has produced microcapsules for textiles and
launched in the market under the trade name Celessence
TEXTILE PROCESSING

TXT capsule systems which can be applied by conven-
tional textile application methods to a wide variety of tex-
tile substrates. The product claim encapsulation of skin
moisturizers, vitamins and insect repellents as well as fra-
grances which can last upto 30 laundering cycles. Celess-
ence TXT capsule systems comprise aqueous dispersions
of encapsulates, which can be applied by pad, exhaustion
or hydroextraction technique to a wide variety of textile
substrate. Durability to washing and handle may be fur-
ther improved by incorporating suitable formaldehyde-
free binders and softeners.
The Matsui Shikiso Chemicals Company has developed
a technique of fixing fragrance to fabric using microcap-
sules. The fabric is first treated with a nitrogenous cati-
onic compound and the microcapsule wall is manufac-
tured to adhere to this layer. The capsules are obtained
by using interfacial or in-situ polymerization. These cap-
sules range in size from 0.1-100 m. Typical compounds
encapsulated include perfumes such as musk, civet,
ambergris, pine and citrus oils. LJ Specialities has devel-
oped microencapsulated fragrance products for textiles.
The mechanism of aroma releasing depends on the light
abrasion and can be applied using conventional methods.
Eldorado International Company has produced fabrics
that contain encapsulated aromas. The capsule breaks on
abrasion caused by the wearer. Haketal has developed a
technology of using beta cyclodextrin as a wall material.
Beta Cyclodextrin was grafted onto cellulose fibres using
N-methylol acrylamide. Hong and Park prepared micro-
capsules using melamine-formaldehyde systems contain-
ing migrin oil. They also suggested poly(L-lactide) as a wall
material to encapsulate fragrance for textiles. Poly(L-lac-
tide) micocapsules containing fragrances were prepared
by interfactial precipitation method. Adding skin benefits
to a textile is achievable by applying encapsulated mois-
turizers, essential oils, certain vitamins and even insect
repellent products. For sportswear it is even possible to
use skin-cooling products.
So imagine being able to capture virtually any fragrance
and harness it to your benefit, and you will realise that
nothing is as emotive as the sense of smell. It is a chal-
lenging and an exciting time for the textile industry. Micro
encapsulation is a finish with an added value, which could
expand market territories or create niches and lead to an
improved market share. We also offer the possibility for
brands to develop an exclusive signature fragrance to in-
crease their recognition through the marketplace.
MICROENCAPSULATION: THE FUTURE
The ideal feature for most textile applications using mi-
crocapsules would be a system that is easy to apply, does
not affect the existing textile properties and has a shelf-
life on a garment that allows normal fabric-care processes
to take place.Currently, although capsules can survive 25–
30 wash cycles, conventional ironing and other heat-input
processes such as tumble-drying can cause a dramatic
reduction in the desired effect. The microencapsulation
industry must take more notice of the possibilities within
the textile industry and specifically design microcapsules
that overcome these problems.
For the future, the consumers desire that novel and
unique effects will always be present. But more impor-
tantly, in an ever-increasing desire for convenience, the
consumer will require that fabric properties are inherent
in the garment, e.g. fresh odour and softness. Consum-
ers will expect these properties to last the lifetime of the
garment, and not involve routine intervention in the form
of the never-ending addition of washing aids and fabric
conditioners. Microencapsulation may deliver these long-
term goals. The desire for a healthier and more produc-
tive lifestyle will continue to generate a market for textiles
that promote “well-being”. Textiles that “interact” with the
consumer, reducing stress, promoting comfort and relax-
ation, are possible through active delivery from microcap-
sules. In the last decade the textile industries have con-
centrated on developing performance fabrics with added
value for sports and outdoor application, as well as novel
medical textiles.
Microencapsulation can play a part in this continued de-
velopment, for example by allowing sensing chemicals
to be attached to sports clothing and medical products;
these will be able to warn of damage or hazard to the
wearer. Systems can also be developed that deliver meas-
ured dosages of chemicals to combat muscle pain or
other more serious injuries. The potential applications of
microencapsulation in textiles are as wide as the imagina-
tion of textile designers and manufacturers. Early success
for some companies in producing microencapsulated fin-
ishes for textiles have come about from collaboration and
adaptation of technology from other industrial sectors.
REFRENCES:
1. CHEMICAL FINISHING OF TEXTILES- H.SCHINDLER
2. TEXTILE FINISHING- MARS,ATLAS & WOODING
3. COLOURAGE- Mar 2006
4. INDIAN TEXTILE JOURNAL – Feb 2007
PROF. TANVEER MALIK,
PROF. AJAY JOSHI AND
PROF T. K. SINHA
Shri Vaishnav Institute of Textile Technology
Shri Vaishnav Vidyapeeth Vishwavidyalaya, indore
TEXTILE PROCESSING

TEXTILE 4.0 – SECOND EDITION ; OVERWHELMING
REPONSES FOR TAI, MUMBAI UNIT CONFERENCE
TEXTILE 4.0 The Second Edition International Confer-
ence gets an overwhelming response from Indian
Textile & Garment industry, same as the First Edi-
tion.
The Textile Association (India), Mumbai Unit has the dis-
tinction of organising the international conferences on
the emerging areas of Textile Trade and industry. During
March 2018, TAI Mumbai Unit organised an international
conference on “Textile 4.0; a first of its kind in Asia and
perhaps the second in the world to bring home the con-
cept and its relevance to global competitiveness. During
Industry 1.0, 2.0 and 3.0, the technological development
were seen by leaps and bounds. The Industrial Revolu-
tion 4.0 in fact began in 2007. The new industrial revo-
lution 4.0 is characterised by a confluence of emerging
technology breakthroughs, including mobile connectivity,
artificial intelligence, Internet of things, next-generation
robotics, 3D printing, wearable and genetic engineering,
nanotechnology, advanced materials, biotechnology and
others. These technologies, combined and connected,
will transform manufacturing and production systems
with unprecedented speed and scope, impacting busi-
ness models, economic growth, employment and sustain-
ability. Hence, Industry 4.0 stands for intelligent produc-
tion and new business models. The aim is on increasing
productivity, flexibility and efficiency. Industry 4.0 or I 4.0
is already being implemented in India, though joint ven-
tures & collaborations.
After the successful event of March 2018, there have
been queries from different parts of India to organise the
Second Edition on the Textile 4.0. Since concepts were
discussed in the earlier event, it was thought appropriate
to take the Second Edition on the same theme with view
to address implementation of it in different segment of
textile and apparel value chain. This was the background
for this Conference Textile 4.0 - Second Edition. It was or-
ganised on 7th February 2019 at Hotel, The Lalit, Andheri
(E), Mumbai.
Inauguration function included Mr. Sanjay Jain, Chairman,
CITI as Chief Guest, Dr. M. R. Ravi, IAS, Commissioner for
Textiles, Government of Karnataka as Guest of Honour
and Mr. Amir Sheikh, Senior Consultant, Gherzi Consult-
ing Engineers P. Ltd as Key Note Speaker. It was graced
by Mr. T. K. Sengupta, National President, TAI, Mr. Vilas
Gharat, President, TAI Mumbai Unit, Mr. V. C. Gupte,
Chairman, TAI Mumbai Unit, Mr. G. V. Aras, Conference
Chairman, Mr. T. K. Chandra, Conference Adviser and Mr.
A. V. Mantri, Hon. Secretary, TAI Mumbai Unit.
Mr. Vilas Gharat, President, TAI Mumbai Unit, welcomed
the Chief Guest Mr. Sanjay Jain, President, CITI, Guest of
Honour Dr. M. R. Ravi, IAS, the Commissioner for Textiles,
Government of Karnataka and the Key-Note Speaker, Mr.
Amir Sheikh, Senior Consultant, Gherzi Consulting Engi-
neers P.Ltd, Speakers, sponsors and the delegates.
Mr. V. C. Gupte, Chairman TAI and the Conference Con-
vener briefed the retrospects of the conference held in
March 2018 as preamble to the current edition of confer-
ence on the topic. He reiterated that the earlier version of
our conference was to introduce the subject Textile: 4.0
and its relevance to the enhancement of competitiveness
from the global perspectives. It also brought home to ad-
dress some of the key challenges in terms of gaps, tech-
nology upgradation; use of IT enabled tools and robotics.
His retrospects set the tone of the Conference.
Mr. G. V. Aras, Chairman of the Conference briefed the
coverage of the deliberations programmed in the current
version. He emphasized that the topics are so chosen that
the entire supply chain starting from spinning, weaving,
knitting garmenting and processing would be deliberated
upon in the context of Textile 4.0. He also reiterated that
the expert speakers have been requested to collate with
the Indian Textile industry with similar case studies of
other developed/developing countries.
Mr. Amir Sheikh, in his Key Note Address briefed the con-
text of global competitiveness interalia Textile 4.0. He
Chief Guest, Mr. Sanjay K. Jain, Chairman, CITI lighting the lamp.
Standing (L to R): Mr. Rahul N. Mehta, Managing Director, Crea-
tive Casualwear Pvt. Ltd., Dr. M. R. Ravi, IAS, Commissioner for
Textile Development & Director of Handlooms & Textiles De-
partment, Government of Karnataka, Mr. Sanjay K. Jain, Chair-
man, Confederation of Indian Textile Industry (CITI), Mr. Amir
Sheikh, Senior Consultant, Gherzi Consulting Engineers Pvt.
Ltd., Mr. Vilas Gharat, President, TAI, Mumbai Unit, Mr. G. V.
Aras, Conference Chairman, Mr. A. V. Mantri, Hon. Secretary,
TAI, Mumbai Unit.
POST EVENT REPORT

emphasized that the automation, use of internet, robot-
ics and artificial intelligence are key factors to prudently
managing the manufacturing processes to achieve higher
productivity and quality of the out puts. There is necessity
of synergising the machines with artificial intelligence and
as such the production machines should comply with the
theology of Industry 4.0 or Textile 4.0.
Dr. M. R. Ravi, Guest of Honour for the event highlighted
the importance technological advancement and its inter-
face with the industry and policy makers to achieve the
envisaged goals of achieving international norms of pro-
ductivity and quality.
TAI Mumbai Unit has set has set a precedent of felicitating
every year, the textile professionals for their outstanding
contribution and who have achieved land mark in their
journey in Textile Industry. Mr. Suresh Kotak, Chairman,
Kotak & Co. Ltd was bestowed with the Lifetime Achieve-
ment Award. Mr. Kotak contributed to Indian cotton Tex-
tile Industry over five decades in various capacities and
contributed in the area of formulation of policies signifi-
cantly.
Mr. Rahul N. Mehta, Managing Director, Creative Casu-
alwear Pvt. Ltd. was honoured with the Industrial Excel-
lence Award. Mr. Mehta has long distinguished career
& contribution in the garment industry. His outstanding
performance in terms of creativity and professional man-
agement in the garment manufacturing is recognised all
over the country, he is also a trainer and motivator. The
awards were given by the Chief Guest and the Guest of
Honour. The entire gathering greeted the awardees with
standing ovation and applauds.
Mr. Sanjay Jain, Chief Guest of the function spoke the rel-
evance of the theme of the conference and opined that
TAI Mumbai Unit and CITI could jointly organise similar
events in different Textile Clusters to promote the Textile
4.0 across the nation.
Mr. Mantri proposed vote of thanks to all the dignitar-
ies and participants for having attended the conference.
Further, he also thanked the sponsors, supporters and all
those who have contributed significantly for the success
of the event.
The first Technical Session-I covered the theme - ‘Textile
4.0- Implementation’. During this session, four papers
were presented. Mr. Stefan Winter, Product Manager,
Karl Meyer Digital Factory, GmbH presented on” KM.ON -
Karle Meyer Digital Solutions”. He said the IT enabled sys-
tem developed by Karl Meyer is made up of eight KM.ON
solution categories together. The first apps and solutions
cover the three areas of management, maintenance and
Service. The three areas are K. Management which ena-
bles customer to look at the current production process,
regardless of location and in real time. The production
data is displayed on the dashboard. This helps in terms of
process transparency by delivering the information and
also supports decision making and planning with the valid
database. Likewise, K. Maintenance supports customers
in their own maintenance operation. The third category
included K. Service is global and helps its customer to link
with Karl Meyer. The remaining categories are being de-
veloped to support the digital factory of Karl Meyer.
Mr. Jurgan Hanel, Head of Technology Technical Textiles,
A. Monforts Textilmaschonen GmbH & Co.KG presented a
paper on “Textile Coating Under the influence of Internet
of Things”. He initiated his talk with introduction to dif-
ferent types of coating machines viz; knife coating, Foam
Coating and Roller Coating. Four modules of versatile
coating machines including multifunctional, knife coating,
rotary screen printing and magnetic roller coating were
listed to address the Textile 4.0. Modular Coating “Montex
Allround” having the features of Internet of things, Indus-
try 4.0 Compliant, Fully automatic features along with ar-
tificial intelligence was presented. Further, an important
finishing machine having automated control system that
can facilitate compliance to Textile 4.0 was discussed in
the context of Montex Allround coating machine features.
Mr. Rahul N. Mehta, Managing Director, Creative Casualwear
Pvt. Ltd., receiving The Industrial Excellence Award by the
hands of Chief Guest Mr. Sanjay K. Jain
Mr. Suresh A. Kotak, Chairman, Kotak & Co. Ltd.receiving The
Lifetime Achievement Award by the hands of Chief Guest Mr.
Sanjay K. Jain.
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Mr. Samath Fernando, CIO, Hirdaramani Group & CEO,
HONE Pvt Ltd, Sri Lanka presented a paper titled “RPA
(Robotics Process Automation) and its impact to Apparel/
Textile manufacturing Processes”. He discussed on use of
robotics and modulation of the manufacturing processes
and control of the process parameters in different stages
of apparel manufacture. He stressed on control of pro-
cess parameters to achieve higher productivity and qual-
ity in the apparel manufacture.
Mr. Vikas Sharan, Director-India Operations, Saurer Tex-
tile Solutions Pvt Ltd., spoke on “Sustainability in Spinning
through Innovation, Artificial Intelligence and Internet
of Things (IoT)”. He described the spinning system being
supplied by Saurer with solutions for staple fibre process-
ing from bale to yarn on sustainable management mech-
anism. He emphasized that the spinning systems address
energy conservation, economics and ergonomics. Specifi-
cally, he illustrated the Carding machine - JSC 326, Zinser
Speed Frame- 5A, Ring Spinning Frame -Zinser Impact -72
XL, Auto coner-ACX6 and Rotor Spinning system-Autocoro
9 having features to be Textile 4.0 compliant. The theol-
ogy of his presentation was to reiterate developments of
Saurer group to meet the challenges of Textile 4.0.
The Second Technical Session-II was devoted to the Im-
plementation of Textile 4.0 in Garment Manufacturing.
Mr. Vikas Banduke, Vice President, Textile Engineering
– Automation, A.T.E. Enterprises presented a paper on
“How to make existing machines Compliant to Textile
4.0”. The paper attracted the attention of the gathering
especially due to appropriate solution to approach com-
pliance to Textile 4.0. Microprocessors and Software sys-
tems which are ‘make specific’ call for replacement with
the supply from the original manufacturer/supplier. M/s
A.T.E. have done inhouse R&D to replace with user friend-
ly software incorporated to make the machines meet the
requirement of the Textile 4.0. Mr. Vikas Banduke pre-
sented different case studies wherein the approach has
yielded positive results proving the point that installation
of new machines with high capital is not the only solution
for compliance to Textile 4.0.
Mr. Felix AK Pinto, Sales Director, South Asia, South East
Asia and ANZ, X-Rite Incorporated presented a paper on
“Next level of Virtualisation for Textile Industry, Total Ap-
pearance Capture from X-Rite”. He initiated his talk on
the journey of X-Rite in assessment of appearance and
colour on a substrate with special reference to textile fab-
rics. With advent of microprocessors and IT enabled soft-
ware, the journey has been so fascinating that it is “sim-
ply seeing is believing”. As quality assurance and decision
support system in colour management, he collated how
these are compliant to Textile 4.0.
Mr. Ronnie Hagin, CEO, Datatex Group presented a paper
titled “Industry 4.0- Textile Reality from buzz to oppor-
tunity”. He started his deliberation with the background
of Datatex as a software development and facilitation
organisation since 1987. Industry 4.0 encompasses the
robotics, Artificial Intelligence, Internet of things and in-
terface with various types of manufacturing machines.
Mechanization of the operations was the first step, while
automation with IT enabled systems according to him
has become a reality under the Industry Revolution Tex-
tile 4.0. Some of the case studies from different parts of
globe wherin his company has been part was illustrated
to bring home that Industry 4.0 or Textile 4.0 is a reality
not simply a buzz word.
In the last Technical Session which covered the Risk Man-
agement two papers were presented. First paper was
pertaining to price fluctuation of cotton and its manage-
ment and another paper was on fluctuation in dollar price
and its management.
Mr. Badruddin Khan, Sr. Manager-Product Management
Team, Multi Commodity Exchange of India (MCX) pre-
sented a paper on “Cotton Price Risk Management”. He
discussed the concept of ‘commodity exchange’ in the
context of different types of commodity markets includ-
ing spot markets, forward markets and future Trading. He
emphasized on future trading as means to manage risk
of price variation within a specific time period. Transpar-
ency, security to the seller to contain with the price fluctu-
ations, warehouse facilities, Hedging etc were illustrated
with various examples based on the trading done under
MCX. It was brought out that in addition to transparent
system of Textile 4.0 using IT enabled Systems, MCX can
be a better facilitator for trading of the commodity and
manage risk especially the cotton which is a major raw
material base for the textile manufacturing.
Mr. Sajal Gupta, Head- Forex & Rates, Edelweiss Securi-
ties Limited made a presentation on ‘Managing Forex Risk
in Extreme Volatility’. He initiated his presentation with
the impact of dollar fluctuation on the overall business
operations either in export or import of goods. He intro-
duced the concept of benchmarking through strategic
price for the foreign currency. In order to contain with the
Release of Book of Papers
POST EVENT REPORT

March 2019 issue

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