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![26 TVC | APRIL 2022
OVERVIEW OF SMART FIBRES
Sakshi Khool
D.K.T.E’S Textile & Engineering Institute, Ichalkaranji
ABSTRACT
O
ver the past few years, smart fibres have seen tremendous growth, especially in terms of
research funding and development of start-ups. However, succeeding in reaching the con-
sumer market are a very few products. Indeed, one of the main challenges remains the lack
of standardised test methods to evaluate properties and performance of smart fibres. In this review
paper, we will talk about the history, applications, future readiness of smart fibres. Smart textiles
synonymously known as electronic textiles, e-textiles, intelligent textiles, and alike is a class of ma-
terials, where textiles play a vital role but where functionalities from other disciplines are added.
In technical textile area significant progresses have been achieved in last few years. There are many
separate and distinct fields of science and engineering. Considerable movement and convergence
has takes place between these fields of endeavour and results have been astonishing. One of these
results is Smart technology for materials and structures. Smart textiles are one of the exciting new
frontier technologies in engineering and manufacturing. Due advantages in many technologies cou-
pled with advances in textile materials and structures smart fibres are possible. Biotechnology, in-
formation technology, microelectronics, wearable computers, nanotechnology and micro electro-
mechanical machine are included in partial list.
There are three categories in which smart fibres are classified according to their function. Results in
an outcome named as smart textiles are the amalgamation of electronic components and advanced
fibres with manmade textiles extend the field of material science and digital electronics. Often even
before we do the world of fashion knows what we want to wear. Be it the trending hemlines or the
latest accessories, designers around the world predict and often create the future when it comes to
preference. Smart fibres is one thing that has been picked up by a lot of such visionary designers.
Smart fibres are created by modified textile material and miniaturised electronic devices [3].
Definition
Smart fibres and structures can be defined as mate-
rials and structures that can sense and react to envi-
ronmental conditions or stimuli , such as those from
mechanical, thermal, chemical, electrical, magnetic
or other sources. Smart fabrics have been defined as
fabrics which are defined and manufactured to include
technologies that provide to the user increased func-
tionality.
Classification
Fibres can be divided into three materials according to
Smart Fibres](https://image.slidesharecdn.com/tvcapril2022-digital-231017111127-81362480/75/Textile-Value-Chain-April-2022-26-2048.jpg)
![29 TVC | APRIL 2022
of many of the smart technologies becomes achiev-
able. The demand for intelligent materials to develop
electric textiles (e-textiles) and smart apparel is rap-
idly growing up for industrial application such as sen-
sors, electrostatic discharge, steel corrosion, electro-
magnetic interference, shielding, dust free clothing,
monitoring, military application and data transfer in
clothing and all other field [3]. Smart textiles are not
yet ready for the market at large scale, even if smart
textiles are gained a certain level of maturity [5].
Numerous fields of applications including different
trends fields in leisure and sports, some lifesavings in
health care, security and military are new developing
sectors captured by smart fibres. Printed electronics
and energy harvesting technologies are evolving to
meet the demands of new, wearable formats. A lot
of work has been performed to make washable ready
to market smart textile products and wash ability of
smart textile has gained attention now days [5].
Risks involved in using smart fabric
The obvious flip side of using smart fibres is the po-
tential misuse of their capabilities. There is also per-
manent risk of unwanted or unintended body sur-
veillance and the erosion of any remaining sense of
privacy. One of challenges for manufacturing of smart
fabric is achieving seamless and invisible integration of
electronic into fabric. Consequently, researchers need
to provide fibres with desired electronic functionality
without compromising strength, comfort and aesthet-
ic apparel [4].
This technology gives uncomforted sensing of the
wearer, and a major challenge in wearable comput-
ing is how to interconnect these components with
soft textile, and find alternatives to silicon, metal, and
components with difficult to integrate them in textile.
However, the disadvantage of this kind of textile is that
the electric component must be removed before wash-
ing and it cannot be washed with an electric machine,
and so expensive. Both the textile and electronics field
should be compliant with requirement by commercial
smart textiles.
Conclusion
Advanced material, polymers, micro-electronics, com-
puters and information technology are the areas in
which number of researches and development are
conducting. These researches are done to develop and
advancement of new materials and better commu-
nication. Textiles are also changing day by day. There
are lots of developments which include lots of appli-
cations, which make the life easy and healthy. These
products are lifesaving, have protective clothing and
importance for medical and healthcare.
References
1. Ana M Grancaric, I. j. (2018): Conductive Polymers
for Smart Textile Application, Journal of Industrial
Textiles, 612-642.
2. Asis Patnaiik, S. P. (2020): Fibres to Smart Textiles .
CRC Press.
3. Meinander, H. (2014): Smart and Intelligent Textiles
and Fibres, Textiles in Sports , 120-133.
4. S. Lam Po Tang, G. S. (2006): An Overview of Smart
Technologies for Clothing Design and Engineering.
5. International Journal of Clothing Science and Tech-
nology .
6. SU Zaman, X. T. (2018): Market Readiness of Smart
Textile Structures--Reliability and Washability, Material
Science and Engineering.
7. Tang, S. L. (n.d.).
8. Tao, X.-M. (2001): Smart Fibres, Fabrics and Clothing:
Fundamentals and Application, Woodhead Publishing
Limited.
Figure 3: Shape memory fibres](https://image.slidesharecdn.com/tvcapril2022-digital-231017111127-81362480/75/Textile-Value-Chain-April-2022-29-2048.jpg)
![32 TVC | APRIL 2022
creased focus on production of speciality industrial
textiles to be end-used in hi-growth and strategic sec-
tors like the medical textiles, geotechnical textiles,
Aerospace and high-altitude end use where India is
very upbeat, the Indian Defence and civil infrastruc-
ture segments for creating high speed rail network,
new ports, new airports and tunnels and road in high
altitude areas like Kashmir, Ladakh and North East and
also including a string of new highways, etc.
It is now further endorsed that, with double the `de-
mand `growth rate versus the traditional T&C textiles,
the global textile recovery post Covid is to be led by this
new industrial textile sector led by increased availabil-
ity of MMF and synthetic fibres/filaments and growing
industrial use of `speciality` and advanced materials
based on new age fibres like Carbon, Aramide, Ceram-
ic and glass fibre, etc.
INDIA’s 4 Aces, that is 4 most impactful new policies to
help drive the production and use of technical textiles.
The Indian Government is now ready to provide to the
textile industry with its 4 new aces which will be the
key engines of growth for technical textile sector, as
also for pushing India’s global T&C share:
a. The TTDS scheme, with an outlay of Rs. 160,000
million is being launched to replace the 25-year-
old TUF scheme for incentivising the new invest-
ment in textile sector. However, the focus will be
advanced technology and such indigenous ma-
chinery development capabilities.
b. The NTTM scheme [that’s is National Technical
Textiles Mission spearheaded by Textile Ministry/
GOI] scheme, is being continued with a budget of
Rs.10,000 million for the textile industry to venture
into high tech projects in technical textiles arena.
c. The PLI or the production linked scheme is anoth-
er new mega investment scheme to rope in large
corporate and global investors into textile industry.
The PLI scheme will bring in large output produc-
tion and with focus on both MMF fibre use and
manufacturing of technical textiles. Already more
than 70 serious applications and project Intents
have been registered.
d. The launch of the MITRA scheme for development
and operations of large size or mega Textile Parks
to attract large global investment into such world
class `play n plug` manufacturing zones in different
corners of the country and ideally placed close to
the fibre production centres and seaports.
India’s competitive advantages v/s global
competitions
To be able to enhance India’s textile sector size to
US$100 billion plus by 2024, and slot itself with aver-
age of 8% share in global T&C/Tech textiles trade, India
has to emerge as leading China +1 global supplier and
lead from front using the competitive advantages such
as; Availability and access to all key raw materials and
MMF fibres,
2. However, India has to make a strong thrust into de-
velop and production of speciality fibres like carbon
fibres, Aramides, ceramic, glass and other fibres with
special focus on high tech textile end uses that are
based on `sustainability` and green issues.
3. India does have the advantage of competitive wag-
es, and yet needs to scale up for the production and
new markets.
India yet needs to address the deficiency and
critical gaps areas below
India needs to actively pursue free-trade agreements
(FTAs) with major export destinations like the EU ,and
the US to push apparel shipments amid increasing
competition from fast growing rivals like Vietnam,
Bangladesh, Turkey, Egypt, and Cambodia that enjoy
tariff concessions, under liberal duty free trade agree-
ments like GSP+ and TPT 11 and others.
India has traditionally enjoyed a comparative advan-
tage in the cotton-based textile sector, including ap-
parels, and they constitute a major chunk of India’s
export basket. However, India’s shift to MMF textiles
now has to be immediate and a serious call to enhance
its share in the global T&C trade to more than 5% and
also to take its rightful place as China+1.
Project No. Project Title Project Capacity
1 Export focussed YARN SPG
MILLS,OF 25 K spdls,for BCI/
Organic yarns,for Knttg &wvg
Approx..20 TPD
2 Cotton Yarn Mill with Ring and
OE spg,withInhouse Knitting
unit
15 to 20 TP-
D,with 5TPD
knttg.
3 3.Integrated Yarn Spg.unit of
20 TPD Ring +OE yarns with
10TPD Terry Towelunit
15 to 20 TPD
New Textile Projects _3 Nos export oriented
*Mail us for Turnkey Proj. Execution.](https://image.slidesharecdn.com/tvcapril2022-digital-231017111127-81362480/75/Textile-Value-Chain-April-2022-32-2048.jpg)
![46 TVC | APRIL 2022
“Gimatex ALWAYS FOCUSES
ON COTTON VALUE ADDITION”
TVC Editorial Team
Gimatex replied to a TVC Questionnaire. Ex-
cerpts:
Mohota Group has a glorious history of over 125
years in the textile industry. Tell us about some
of the important highlights, achievements, mile-
stones during this journey. The Graph below
tells you the story so far…..
[From Left to Right: Vineet Kumar Mohota – Director (Finance),
Basant Kumar Mohota – Chairman, Prashant Kumar Mohota – MD,
Anurag Kumar Mohota – Director (Works)]
interview - Gimatex](https://image.slidesharecdn.com/tvcapril2022-digital-231017111127-81362480/75/Textile-Value-Chain-April-2022-46-2048.jpg)
Uploaded byTEXTILE VALUE CHAIN
Textile Value Chain- April 2022
Customs duty has been exempted on cotton imports until September 2022 as cotton prices have spiraled out of control in recent months. The cotton textile industry lobbied the government and textiles ministry about the urgent need to remove duty on cotton, which yielded this result. Export of cotton textiles like made-ups, fabrics and yarns have performed well, reaching $14.8 billion for 2021-2022, exceeding targets. However, the cotton crisis poses a threat to the $100 billion textile export target by 2030. The industry may increasingly adopt cotton blends as an alternative to pure cotton.
Textile Value Chain- April 2022
- 1. V O LU M E 1 0 | I S S U E N O . 0 4 | R S 1 0 0 | P a g e s 1 2 6 I S S N N O : 2 2 7 8 - 8 9 7 2 | R N I N O : M A H E N G / 2 0 1 2 / 4 3 7 0 7 www.textilevaluechain.in Postal registration No. MNE/346/2021-23, posted at Mumbai Patrika Channel sorting office, Pantnagar, Ghatkopar (East), Mumbai - 400075 Posting date is end of month ( 29th/ 30th / 31st ) APRIL 2022 cotton crisis INTERVIEWS Gimatex/Mohota Legacy 125 Years Usha international , Mr. P.K. Sahni Sanathan Textiles, Mr. Samir Dattani SRTEPC, Mr. Anil Rajvanshi AKS, Ms. Nidhi Yadav Educationist, Dr. Suman Mundkur CUSTOMS DUTY OFF AS CUSTOMS DUTY OFF AS COTTOn SPINS COTTOn SPINS OUT OF CONTROL! OUT OF CONTROL!
- 3. For further informationvisit us at www.oerlikon.com/polymer-processing Innovation starts with Creativity “ We have been consistently inspiring the global manmade fiber industry with disruptive, sustainable innovations for over 100 years.” Georg Stausberg CEO, Oerlikon Polymer Processing Solutions As a pioneer of the manmade fiber industry founded in 1922, always oriented on the guiding stars of innovation and technology leadership within a global market environment – this is us, the Oerlikon Barmag of today. A strong entrepreneurial spirit and boundless creativity have shaped us. We are proud of our entire global workforce. The creative utilization of its experience and knowledge potential in close collaboration with high- performance partners, suppliers and services providers is the key to our sustained success. We focus on close cooperation with our customers, offering them market-oriented innovations and services. These are based on interdisciplinary, team-oriented development work and high-quality production procedures. In the future, we will continue to constantly question established processes and break down conventional procedures and ways of thinking. Because innovation starts with creativity. And we actively promote these with our multicultural and open corporate culture.
- 4. 70 TVC |MARCH 2022
- 7. 7 TVC |APRIL 2022
- 13. 13 TVC |APRIL 2022 Table of COVER STORY KNITTING IN SURAT INTERVIEW SMART FIBRES MMF & TECHNICAL TEXTILES DOUBLE MASK SETU - INDUSTRY PROJECT CORPORATE NEWS CONTENT YARN REPORT E-COMMERCE TRENDS 86 11 most important e-commerce trends of 2022-2023 84 Yarn bazar report 56 52 46 26 81 Data-based yield improvement: Uster automatic fabric inspection leads the way to the future 61 Gujarat turning into vibrant hub of textiles: Anil Rajvanshi 34 Mask, Protect it! 73 US$65 billion scope in textile exports 73 Mag Accutrash in Bremen Institute 56 Sustainability is at the heart of our every move: Sammir Dattani 52 Usha international is increasing foot- print in East: P.K. Sahni 78 Pratibha Syntex’s Greenfield project for sustainable textiles 77 STOLL launches new “WONDERFUL” trend collection 75 Catering for diversity – Monforts at Techtextil North America 26 Overview of smart fibres 31 Major Global Trends: Technical Textile & MMF 67 “Dynamic shift in textile industry with focus on self-reliance” Dr. Suman Mundkur 64 We bring fresh fusion themes every 2 weeks: Nidhi Yadav of AKS 46 “Gimatex always focuses on cotton value addition” 43 Latest trend in knitting industry in Surat 37 SETU: Mission & Goals 24 Cyclic change behind cotton rise: Ma- hesh Maheshwari 23 “Industry may go for more blends” 18 CAI chief sees huge correction in price after August 17 Customs duty off as cotton spins out of control! 17
- 14. 14 TVC |APRIL 2022 FASHION EVENTS UPDATES MARKET REPORTS ADVERTISER INDEX Table of CONTENT 99 93 Gujrat chamber of commerce and in- dustry : Textile leadership conclave 2022 105 95 Page 116: IGM Page 115: NON WOVEN TECH Page 109: CNR Page 90: COSMOS Page 85: BISHNU EXPORT Page 83: UNITECH TEXMACH Page 74: TEX FAB ENGINEERS Page 63: KEN INDIA Page 55: ALLIANCE FIBER Page 80: OMAX Page 72: SAKTHI INDUSTRIES Page 60: VATSAL EXPORT Page 51: AMRITLAKSHMI Page 45: RAMKRISHA SPINTEX Page 42: ATE - PROCESSING Page 36: USTER Page 33: MEERA INDUSTRIES Page 30: SAURER Page 25: SHAHLON SYNTHETICS Page 16: YASH MACHINES Page 12: ITM Page 11: WELLKNOWN Page 10: LRT Page 9: GSCS Page 8: GARTEX- MUMBAI Page 124: TVC DIGITAL Page 7: SIYARAM Page 123: GLOSSY Page 6: YARNEX MUMBAI Page 122: KOTAK Page 5: COLOR JET Page 121: TEX TECH Page 4: ASTRA TECH Page 120: PORTUGAL Page 3: OERLIKON Page 119: MAG SOLVIC Front Inside: RIMTEX Page 118: TEXFAIR Back Inside: RAYSIL Page 117: INTEX Back Page: RAYMOND 114 SHOW CALENDAR 112 India’s exports of bed, table, toilet & kitchen linens witness a hike 111 India’s exports of knitted fabric witness a hike 91 Denim show to showcase Indian indus- try prowess at first Mumbai edition 107 7 innovators join Fashion for Good’s 2022 Asia Innovation Programme 105 NIFT convocation ceremony 104 EPC For technical textiles mooted 102 Smart garments for smarter living, a webinar report 100 Globalspin Trade Conclave at WTC, Mumbai 99 Garment Training Program for rural community 88 Young designers of Satyam Fashion Institute showcase women of today 95 India is yet to catch up with global trends in technical textiles: G.V. Aras 110 MMF report
- 15. 15 TVC |APRIL 2022 All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of any of the content from this issue is prohibited without explicit written permission of the publisher. Every effort has been made to ensure and present factual and accurate information. The views expressed in the articles published in this magazine are that of the respective authors and not necessarily that of the publisher. Textile Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely errorsthatmightoccuroranystepstakenbasedintheinformationprovidedherewith. REGISTERED OFFICE: TVC MEDIA AND PROMOTION PVT. LTD. 504, Suchita Business Park, Patel Chowk, Pantnagar, Ghatkopar (East), Mumbai- 400075, Maharashtra, INDIA. Cell: +91-9769442239 Email: info@textilevaluechain.com Web: www.textilevaluechain.com Owner, Publisher, Printer and Editor - Ms. Jigna Shah Printed and Processed by her at, Impression Graphics, Gala no.13, Shivai Industrial Estate, Andheri Kurla Road, Sakinaka, And- heri (East), Mumbai 400072, Maharashtra, India. SUBSCRIPTION EDITOR AND PUBLISHER Ms. Jigna Shah EDITORIAL TEAM marketing and advertising enquiry Cottonpriceshavesoaredtonewheightsintherecentmonths, with the Cotton Association of India proclaiming that all, from farmers to traders are ‘bullish’ on the demand for cotton. Cot- ton industry circles and traders are trading charges that the latter is hoarding artificially pushing up the prices and the former holding the argument that farmers are slowing down release of cotton. The cotton textile industry’s frantic knock at the doors of the Government and the Textiles Ministry to apprise them about the urgent need to remove the duty on cotton yielded results. The Government exempted all customs duty on cotton imports till 30th September 2022. The other key issues taken up with the officials during their meetings included the following: Taking steps to increase production and yield of cotton; Need to continue with the present level of support in terms of ROSCTL and RODTEP Rates; Include Home Textiles in the Notification permitting duty free imports of trimmings and embellishments; Need to extend ROSCTL Rates to items of bedding in HS-9404 and Cotton Bags in HS 4202. In the current year, the export of cotton textiles (madeups, fabrics, yarns, etc.) have performed exceedingly well. As we are well aware, export of cotton textile products under the purview of Texprocil has reached a level of US$14.8 million during April 1, 2021 – March 21, 2022 marking an achieve- ment of 109 per cent of the annual export target determined at US$13.6 million for FY 2021-2022. This achievement is re- markable as the value added Madeups and Fabrics segment have also shown growth along with the Yarn segment, thus contributing towards the growth of the entire sector. India’s merchandise exports have achieved a remarkable landmark by surpassing the level of US$400 billion for the first time during the current financial year. The growth can be attributed to the stellar performance by sectors including textiles that have benefitted from a strong global recovery. The Textiles Minister, Mr. Piyush Goyal is optimistic that the textiles exports of US$100 billion is achievable by 2030. But if irritants like the cotton crisis is let out of control, they may pose a threat to such ambitious targets. Despite the extraordi- nary trade performance, we cannot remain unmindful of the uncertainties facing the trade and industry. One clear sign of the changes is that the industry may be moving out of pure cotton to blends. Man-made fibres are bound to benefit. The cotton-based industry is left high and dry, with most of the ex- porters from the Southern parts of India threatening to down shutters. It’s high time industry, farmers, traders and export- ers huddle together to find a way out of this mess. No End in Sight to Cotton Crisis? CREATIVE DESIGNER Ms. Poiyamozhi P S ADVISOR - EDITORIAL & MARKETING Mr. Samuel Joseph EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Ms. Neha Bisht Online Registration https://textilevaluechain.in/subscription/ Subscription Enquiry Ms. Vaibhavi Kokane +91-9869634305 ; textilevaluechain123@gmail.com Scan and Open Mohammad Tanweer +91-9167986305 sales@textilevaluechain.com
- 16. 16 TVC |APRIL 2022 www.yashtex.com sales@yashtex.com Open Width Knits Inspection Machine Model: IOK I Inspection, Measuring & Rewinding Solutions +91 9167772065 I Knits Lycra Elastic By-stretch KEY FEATURES Designed for tensionless handling, inspection, measuring and rewinding of delicate fabrics PLC controlled synchronizing systems Variable roll compactness Roll Handling, Packing & Sorting Option to set machine parameters based on the fabric qualities For Stretch Sensitive Fabrics MACHINES FOR DELICATE FABRICS Elastic, Knits, Lycra Inspection Machine Model: IRE
- 17. 17 TVC |APRIL 2022 CUSTOMS DUTY OFF AS COTTON SPINS OUT OF CONTROL! TVC Editorial Team C otton prices sent shock waves across the textile value chain recently, throwing the entire textile industry out of gear, which has sought the gov- ernment’s intervention by making stock disclosures mandatory, and taking measures to contain specu- lation. Placating the industry for its demand to scrap the import duty, the Government withdrew the 10% import duty on cotton from 14th April 2022 to 30th September 2022. Mr. T. Rajkumar, Chairman, CITI thanked the Hon’ble Prime Minister, Mr. Narendra Modi Ji, Hon’ble Union Minister of Textiles, Mr. Piyush Goyal Ji, Hon’ble Union Minister of Finance, Ms. Nirmala Sitharaman, Hon’ble Union Minister of Agriculture & Farmers’ Welfare, Mr Narendra Tomar Ji, Hon’ble Minister of State for Tex- tiles & Railways, Ms.Darshana Vikram Jardosh Ji and all the concerned senior government officials for their kind support for withdrawing 10% import duty on Cot- ton – 5% Basic Customs Duty (BCD) and 5% Agriculture Infrastructure and Development Cess (AIDC), including 10% Social Welfare Cess (SWC) on both amounting to 11% import duty on cotton – from 14th April 2022 to 30th September 2022. Mr T Rajkumar said, “it’s a welcome decision and will help the entire textile value chain to fight not only the Cotton-based industries are reeling under the soaring prices of the raw material, and with no end in sight, the crisis has triggered off a series of accusations from varied interest and the industry sending SOS to of no avail. The industry heaved a sigh of relief when the Government finally withdrew the 10% import duty on cotton from 14th April 2022 to 30th September 2022. steep increase in the cotton price due to the imposi- tion of 10% customs duty on the import of cotton but also to meet the requirement of specialty cotton (ex- tra-long-staple cotton, organic cotton, coloured cotton, etc.) to manufacture high-end products for their niche markets in advanced countries”. CITI Chairman further stated that we also apprised the Hon’ble Ministers that as per the industry estimates, the duty-free import will not exceed 40 lakh bales during the current season. Moreover, it will take three to four months’ time for the imported cotton to reach the Indian textile mills. Since the cotton farmers have already sold their cotton crop of present season and are preparing for sowing for the next season, allowing duty-free import of cotton will not at all affect the In- cover story
- 18. 18 TVC |APRIL 2022 dwindled down to below 70%, resulting in huge job losses and a declining trend in the GST revenue.” The Government’s decision to exempt cotton import will boost their sentiments, and help the textile industry to maintain their growth momentum. CITI Chairman hoped that the T&C Industry would be able to achieve the export target of US$ 16.96 billion (25% increase) set for the cotton value chain and the total textiles and clothing’s export target of US$ 47.029 billion (18% increase) set for the financial year 2022-23 CAI chief sees huge correction in price after August dian cotton farmers. The meetings were fruitful, and the Hon’ble Ministers assured the delegation that their problems will be resolved at the earliest. Mr Rajkumar further pointed out that MSME seg- ments, including Handloom, Powerloom, Independent Knitting, Weaving, Processing, Garmenting and Made- up, which accounts for over 80% of the total exports have no access for Advance Authorization Scheme and duty-free import of cotton. These are the worst-affect- ed segments, and their capacity utilisation has already Mr. Atul Ganatra, President of the Cotton Associa- tion of India replied to a few questions from the Tex- tile Value Chain regarding the cotton crisis: Current situation of cotton is very fearful, every few months cotton prices are hiked and the industry is disturbed, what is the reason for it? The reason for the cotton rate going up is everyone in the trade are bullish i.e. from farmers to spinners, due to that farmers are holding the arrivals and bringing cotton for sale very slowly. At the same time all the spinning mills want to buy cotton at a high- er rate also as mills are having lower rate inventory and if they buy the cotton at higher rate that may be averaged out. Also, big stockists of cotton bales are bullish, so these stocked bales are also not coming for sale in the market easily. How we should control this situation? Any practical solutions? Few reasons for the market going up are fundamen- tal and at the same time it is also speculation. The spinning mills lobby has put 3 demands with the tex- tile ministry to control the cotton rates. a. Ban of cotton trading on MCX exchange. b. MNCs and big Indian stockists to be forced to re- lease cotton stocks for spinning mills, otherwise put strict stock limits. c. Remove 11% import duty on cotton. If the government will act on spinning mills demand then we can see higher corrections in the cotton market. What is the CAI role to control price hike? As per CAI, this year cotton production is 335 lakh bales of 170 kg and cotton import will be around 15 lakh bales. The last year carry forward stock is 75 lakh bales, so total arrivals will be 425 lakh bales. Against this availability cotton consumption is 340 lakh bales and cotton export is estimated at 45 lakh bales so total uses will be 385 lakh bales and closing stock as on September 30, 2022 will be 40 lakh bales. Due to higher rate of cotton, next year we are assuming cot- ton sowing will go up by 15 to 30% state-wise and overall increase will be 20 to 25%. In many places in India cotton sowing has already started and we are assuming from August onwards new crop arrivals will start. Once new crop arrivals start and new season estimate of production crosses 400 lakh bales, then we may see huge corrections in cotton prices in India.
- 19. 19 TVC |APRIL 2022 with the help of availability of cotton fibre and other raw materials at internationally competitive prices to the Indian T&C Industry. There is no reliable data available of cotton stocks maintained by the kapas traders, ginners and traders. “In the case of spinning mills, only around 40% of the mills provide data to the office of the textile commis- sioner. This gives the cotton traders a chance to hoard stocks and inflating the prices artificially and take ad- vantage of futures trading on commodity exchanges MCX and NCDEX, says Mr. Balkrishan Sharma, Busi- ness and Unit Head Spinning, Ginni Filaments Ltd. “kya karun, kuch samajh nahi aa raha”. (What should I do, not able to understand !!!) “cotton ne kahin ka nahi chora”. (Cotton left me no- where …!!!) “sabko teji mein teji lagti hai aur mandi mein mandi”. (Everyone feels Profit is Profit and Loss will be loss !!) “koi maal bechkar khush nahi hai aur koi kharidkar khush nahi hai”.(Few are not happy to sell the prod- ucts, few are not happy to buy the product !!! ) “himmat jawab de rahi hai”. (Courage is the only an- swer now !!! ) These are some of the on-the-spot reactions that sum up the confusion, panic, fear, uncertainty and unpre- dictability which is gripping the textile value chain at present. Everyone is watching each other’s face and no one seems to know as to what they should be doing. Customers are also doing window shopping. Cotton prices skyrocketed from ₹44,500 per candy (of 356 kg) in February 2021 to ₹90,000 per candy recently. Notably, the government had levied the 11 per cent im- port duty on cotton when prices were nearly half of what they are now. “The steep increase in cotton price and its impactonpricesofyarnsandfabricsisseverelyimpacting the potential growth of the cotton textile value chain,” said industry participants in a joint statement. Cotton prices soared in a very short span of time which is defying all the logics. On the other hand, demand from downstream products is not in sync with increase in cotton or yarn prices. Even in yarns, demand in counts finer than 40 is muted. Financial year closing in March also weighed heavily on money availability. Some unanswered questions are: 1. Will this bullishness in cotton sustain, and if yes then till when, is a million-dollar question? 2. Will it be easy for spinning mills to replace cotton with other products? 3. Is there demand of alternative products other than cotton? 4. Are the arrivals being underreported to maintain bullishness in cotton? 5. Will there be panic buying or customers shall wait and watch? 6. Will spinning mills be forced to close spindleage in the times to come because of non-availability of cot- ton? 7. Are the figures of 335 lakh bales crop size given by CAI, right? 8. When MNCs are going to start selling 25 lakh bales stocked with them? 9. When Government is going to allow import of cot- ton without duty? 10. When Government is going to ban cotton trading on MCX, at least temporarily? The industry opines that the Government need to play major role for ongoing price hike of cotton. Ginners, Traders need to give clarity on stocks. Govt bodies like CAI, CCI need to take front step, Government needs to ask all mills, traders, ginners to share their stock details immediately, reflecting stocks in the system should be mandatory not by choice. Balkrishan Sharma
- 20. 20 TVC |APRIL 2022 Result of this crisis shared by industry is as follows: • Industry will be moving from Pure cotton to Poly- ester Cotton ( PC), Polyester Viscose ( PV) , 100 % Polyester or any other readily available fiber like linen, hemp etc. • Industry once moved to other fibers, then demand of cotton automatically reduce then cotton stocks will be out , by that time no demand will be there for cotton , its tricky situation. • Industry need to wait for next crop ie in September 2022, till the time ie in 6 months industry dynamics will change. • Industry has stopped making counts like 10s, 20s. Industry is moving from 24s count to 30s count, from 15s to 35s count. coarser yarn need less cot- ton. • Industry can’t able to make finer count , few prod- ucts scarcity in market which needs finer counts. • Industry moving from Combed to Carded Yarns , carded needs less cotton compared to combed yarns. • July month is very crucial , as by that time many mills will be out of stocks of cotton. Farmer don’t have stocks. • Corporates like Vardhaman , Nahar will be import- ing cotton. MNC, few corporate spinning mills will be holding stocks. • Waiting for rainy season , will get moisture of 6% in season. Quantity and quality issue. • Right now demand is 1 lac per day and available is 30000 bales per day , this huge gap , So the price is Appx Rs. 100000 / bale for Indian cotton. • MCX pricing 42000- 43000 per candy which is Rs. 14 to 15 higher than USA cotton. • Stop trading to MNC stock exchange and MCX now, till the stocks are back. • Business runs on sentiments not facts. Earlier in April 1, a Textile and Clothing (T&C) Indus- try Delegation comprising Members of National Com- mittee on Textiles and Clothing (NCTC), met the Union Minister of Textiles, Commerce & Industry, Consum- er Affairs and Food & Public Distribution, Mr. Piyush Goyal, and submitted a Joint Memorandum to allow duty-free import of cotton not only to tide over the present crisis but also to achieve the desired target set for the Indian T&C Industry for the financial year 2022-2023. The NCTC delegation comprised of Mr T. Rajkumar, Chairman, Confederation of Indian Textile Industry (CITI), Mr Narendra Goenka, Chairman, Ap- parel Export Promotion Council (AEPC), Mr Manoj Pa- todia, Chairman, The Cotton Textiles Export Promotion Council (TEXPROCIL), Mr Ravi Sam, Chairman, The Southern India Mills’ Association (SIMA), and Mr Raja M. Shanmugham, President, Tirupur Exporters Associ- ation (TEA). The NCTC delegation thanked the Prime Minister and Hon’ble Union Minister of Textiles for taking numer- ous path-breaking and historical policy initiatives that enabled India to achieve US$ 400 billion exports that too prior to the scheduled deadline and making India
- 21. 21 TVC |APRIL 2022 to become the fastest growing economy in the world. The total textiles and clothing export increased from US$29.454 billion to US$39.734 billion (estimated) and recorded a growth of 67% in the financial year 2021- 2022 in comparison to the previous year. Similarly, the cotton textile exports also recorded a growth of 56% by reaching US$15.056 billion (estimated). TheNationalCommitteeonTextilesandClothing(NCTC) delegation apprised the Minister about the shortage of quality cotton that the Textiles and Clothing (T&C) In- dustry is facing at the moment on the backdrop of de- clining domestic cotton production during the current cotton season (around 340 lakh bales of 170 kgs each as against 360-370 lakh bales production in the previ- ous years) and the increased T&C Industry’s demand for cotton (360 lakh bales as against 300 to 320 lakh bales in the previous years) and an estimated export of 50 lakh bales. The Industry delegation appealed to the Union Minister of Textiles to allow the duty-free import of cotton not only to tide over the present crisis but also to achieve the desired target set for the Indian T&C Industry for the financial year 2022-2023. The NCTC delegation apprised the Minister that the levy of 11% import duty on cotton is affecting the global competitiveness of the Indian T&C Industry, as the cotton traders are adopting an import parity pric- ing policy. They also apprised the Minister from Jan- uary 2022, the Indian cotton price is ruling Rs.15/- to Rs.20/- per kg higher than the international price. The T&C Industry is compelled to import high quality ex- tra-long-staple cotton, sustainable cotton, and con- tamination free cotton by paying 11% duty to meet the export commitments, whereas, the competing coun- tries (Bangladesh, Vietnam, China, Pakistan, etc.) enjoy the advantage of duty-free import of cotton. The NCTC delegation apprised the Minister that the steep increase in the cotton prices and shortage of quality cotton have resulted in the cancellation of Indi- an export orders and diversion of the same to Bangla- desh, Vietnam, China, and Pakistan by the importers in EU, USA, Japan, etc. They cited India’s share in US bedlinen exports has declined from an average of 55% during 2021 to 44.85% in the month of January 2022. While Pakistan’s share has increased to 25.71% from 20% and China’s share increased to 19.37% from 12% during the same period. The NCTC delegation also pointed out that the MSME segments, including handloom, powerloom, indepen- dent knitting, weaving, processing, garmenting and made-up segments that account over 80% of the ex- ports have no access for advance authorization scheme and duty-free import of cotton. These are the worst af- fected segments and their capacity utilisation has al- ready dwindled down to below 70%, resulting in huge job losses and a declining trend in the GST revenue. The NCTC delegation requested to the Union Minister of Textiles that the only option left for the T&C Industry is to allow duty-free import of cotton not only to tide over the present crisis but also to achieve the cotton textile’s export target of US$16.963 billion (25% in- crease) and the total textiles and clothing’s export tar- get of US$47.029 billion (6% increase) for the financial year 2022-2023. The Indian T&C Industry is optimistic to achieve this steep increase in the target if cotton is made available to them at an internationally compet- itive rate. The NCTC delegation opined that the duty-free im- port may not exceed 40 lakh bales during the current season. Moreover, it will take three to four months’ time for the imported cotton to reach the Indian tex- tile mills. As the cotton farmers have already sold their cotton crop of present season and are preparing for sowing for the next season, allowing duty-free import of cotton will not at all affect the Indian cotton farmers. The trade bodies have also highlighted that the spin- ning mills were left with cotton stock of only 40 days or (41 lakh bales each of 170 kg) as against three to six months’ stock during any cotton season at the end of March. Since more than 90 per cent of the cotton crop is said to have arrived into the market during the months of December and March, industry players are suspecting a lack of clarity on the data. “Currently, ap- proximately 240 lakh bales of cotton has arrived into the market as against 320 lakh bales that should have arrived by this time,” the industry players said pointing out that 11 per cent import duty has emboldened the
- 22. 22 TVC |APRIL 2022 traders to hoard cotton in the name of farmers, adopt import parity pricing policy and curtail the global com- petitiveness of the Indian textile industry. Cotton yarn prices have risen very steeply in India and in overseas markets in the recent past. There is a huge shortage of yarn globally, with capacities shrinking and acute power and labour shortages in geographies where there is good quality spinning capacity. India has the world’s second largest spinning capacity after China, commanding a share of the global Cotton Yarn market – currently producing over 4700 Mn. Kgs of spun yarn of which over 3,400 Mn. Kgs is cotton yarn. Cotton Yarn accounts for nearly 73% of total spun yarn production. Indian Spinning Industry is the most mod- ern and efficient in the world. The world’s most renowned Indian Cotton Yarns are available as greige, bleached, mercerized, gassed, twisted, dyed or an endless range of fashion yarns like mélange, stretch, blends, high twist and so on to meet the different applications in fashion, clothing, home textiles, hosiery, and industrial fabrics. India is the big- gest producer of denim in the world with the world-fa- mous brands like Arvind, Jindal, Aarvee, Pratap Spin- tex, Etco Denim, Raymond and so on. Today, Indian cotton yarn is widely accepted in Inter- national markets as the exporters here regularly meet the needs of importers with unmatched efficiency and economy in countries like USA, Italy, Spain, Japan, Chi- na, South Korea, Taiwan, Bangladesh, Vietnam etc. The lockdown caused by the COVID-19 pandemic in India and across the globe from mid-March 2020 has created negative impact on prices and production and thereof on the Yarn demand. Cotton yarn spinning sec- tor is completely dependent on production and prices of cotton. Over the past few years, not only production of cotton decreased in India, but also its prices have increased. Cotton production in India has reduced from 398 lakh bales in 2013-2014 to 357 lakh bales in 2019-2020. Prices of raw cotton increased by over 10% during the same period. This has put considerable bur- den on the spinning industry. Price increase in cotton yarn has not been sufficient to match the increasing cost of raw materials and highly fluctuating cotton pric- es. India’s domestic consumption of cotton yarn is well below its production and its exports are also declining (from 1,313.43 million kg in 2013-14 to 959.79 million kg 2019-20 at a CAGR of about (-) 3%). Both low do- mestic consumption and decline in exports are lead- ing to surplus production of cotton yarn in the country, which is harming the spinning industry. Value-wise, in 2019-2020 the cotton yarn exports declined by 29.4 per cent to US$2,760.51 from US$3,895.52 in 2018-2019. Bangladesh, China and Egypt remained the top three exporting countries for India. India shipped cotton yarn worth US$590.57 million to Bangladesh in 2019-2020 (-20.03 per cent); US$590.57 million (down 53.92 per cent) to China and US$181.79 million (-1.11%) to Egypt. The share of Vietnam in China’s total imports of cotton yarn has in- creased from 7.61% in 2009 to 36.66% in 2018, while that of India has increased from 7.75% to 21.74% during the same period. India also faces duty challeng- es in export markets vis-à-vis competing countries. Pakistan and Bangladesh levy higher rates of duty on Indian yarn, while they enjoy duty free or concessional duty access in India. India is lagging in cotton exports to major markets due to a duty disadvantage vis-a-vis Bangladesh, Vietnam and Pakistan. Countries like Ban- gladesh and Vietnam enjoy duty-free access in world’s largest cotton yarn markets such as China. The global cotton yarn market decreased by -2.8% to $77.20 B in 2019, after the prominent growth recorded in 2018 when the market value increased by 18% year- to-year. In 2019, approx. 4.5M tonnes of cotton yarn were imported worldwide, which is down by -3.1% compared with the year before. The most prominent rate of growth was recorded in 2015 with an increase of 8.6% year-to-year. As a result, imports attained a peak of 4.8M tonnes. In value terms, cotton yarn im- ports dropped to $13.7B in 2019. Looking at the increase in recent demand for yarn in the domestic market, a lot of small spinners who had closed during lockdown period have restarted their mills from October 2020. National Textile Corporation (NTC) have announced that they are restarting around 40% of their spindle capacity which has been idle since
- 23. “INDUSTRY MAY GOFOR MORE BLENDS” In terms of sustainability, the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol® sets a new standard for more sustainably grown cotton. Aligned with the U.N. Sustainable Development Goals, the Trust Protocol brings quantifiable and verifiable goals and measurement to more sustainable cotton production and drives continuous improvement in six key sustainability metrics – land use, soil carbon, water management, soil loss, greenhouse gas emissions and energy efficiency. This is what exactly consumers are looking for and what the U.S. cotton industry is offering. Peush Narang What trends do you see in coꢀon and other fibres? the lockdown. The present situaꢁon is only a temporary phenomenon and market forces will ensure that the demand-supply balance is restored in due course.Southern India Mills Associaꢁon (SIMA) have sent an advisory to all Member Mills to ensure uninterrupted yarn supply to the kniꢂng and weaving sectors and avoid undue volaꢁlity in prices. Peush Narang, Program Representaꢁve of Coꢀon USA replied to a couple of quesꢁons from the Texꢁle Value Chain. What is the future of coꢀon from the USA at a ꢁme coꢀon is highly in demand in India? Sales for U.S. cotton reflect strong demand. The mills want to buy cotton which is good quality, consistent and gives them good efficiency, and that exactly is what U.S. cotton has been delivering for many years. Now we have a COTTON USA SOLUTIONS™ technical team which is helping the mills with what they can expect from the quality of U.S. cotton and also help them plan better. Our SOLUTIONS team can also guide them operationally in terms of what changes they could do to improve their efficiency. Our team of SOLUTIONS experts has created five business-building programs, providing unmatched expertise informed by work with over 1,500 mills in 50 countries. Our programs are complimentary for customers who are COTTON USA™ licensees or U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol® members. I think the recent trend what we are seeing now is that people are switching to blends to meet the economics. But in India, cotton has a strong future because the industry has full faith that cotton will remain the engine of growth in the textile industry. The recent announcement made by the honorable Ministry of Finance on April 13, 2022 to exempt the import duty on cotton until Sept. 30, 2022, is a welcome step for the textile industry. Thanks to the Indian cotton associations and the textile associations who have collaborated on behalf of Indian textile industry. I think mills will be much happier as they now have access to quality U.S. cotton and this will be good for spinners. 23 TVC | APRIL 2022
- 24. 24 TVC |APRIL 2022 According to Mr. Mahesh Maheshwari , Executive Director of Nimbark Fashion Limited, the cost of cotton is currently about Rs. 1 lakh per candy. It has been said that in commodity market , there is a price cycle of each product and thus we see the rise of cotton prices today. “I don’t think that cotton prices will continue to stay in this range. When this cycle ends, the cost of cotton candy will set- tle between Rs. 60000-70000. I believe that in a few months time, we will be able to ascertain whether the crop of cotton will continue to affect the industry or not. During 2011, the cost of cotton rose upto Rs. 60000- 62000 which eventually came down to Rs. 32000 in a few months time. So, as it is said, his- tory repeats itself and we can see a similar pattern today in cotton prices.” says Mr. Maheshwari, while speaking to the Editor of the Textile Value Chain, during the cotton crisis. Views on Current Cotton Price Crisis Indian Textile Industry had barriers as far as the prices were concerned, yet, today we see those barriers re- ducing and an acceptance by the industry to this new development. As necessity is the mother of invention, the cotton price crisis has led to industry into diversi- fying towards production of unique blends of cotton and other fibers which will benefit the mills to reduce cotton consumption and look forward for new mar- kets. Those mills who were only dependent on cotton production, now have an opportunity to diversify their product range. If cotton cost has increased, parallelly the demand of polyester has increased. When the rate will come down as per the cycle, cotton will be in de- mand again. There are no droughts this season, there- fore there will not be issues in the spinning process. One great market learning of this situation is that the textile industry has developed acceptance to market fluctuations whether it is yarn or fabric. The future of Indian Textile Industry is bright. I under- stand that in India, the consumption will be double of what it is today by the year 2030. Owing to the growth of India’s GDP the per capita income has increased, leading to increase in per capita consumption, both quality and quantity wise. In the last few years there has been an increase in lifestyle expenditures. Once upon a time, consumers were not concerned about their wardrobe until the clothes were worn out, but nowadays the trend is to change the wardrobe as per CYCLIC CHANGE BEHIND COTTON RISE: MAHESH MAHESHWARI TVC Editorial Team seasons, mood, lifestyle, position, stage/situation in life, etc. Due to COVID-19 lockdown, people did not spend on clothes since they were at home and now, post lockdown I think variety and new trends of cloth- ing are the top priority of individuals with high dispos- able incomes. With Government of India’s support to textile exports, in the next five years, the growth of export sector will also help the industry to boost rev- enues. Advice to Start Ups The IndianTextile industry is a difficult industry, to start up a new business into. Since the industry is huge, whatever you learn, you’d still be lacking in knowledge. Thus, new age entrepreneurs should have a learning attitude. They should learn from experienced people, from teams and professionals. Textile industry has huge history ; it is not like IT industry which has bloomed in a few years span. Thus, enter the businesses with a long term plan and a mindset that Rome wasn’t built in a day. In the Textile Industry, margins are less and money is made and earned over time. Here you cannot gain huge margins. Net margins are are quite low. Thus to make a mark in the industry you have to research on market trends, focus on new developments in produc- tion and focus on value added products, since these are highly demanding and worth the risk. If we manage these things, the future is bright and we can do busi- ness in a good way.
- 25. 25 TVC |APRIL 2022 3rd Floor, Dawer Chambers, Ring Road, Surat- 395 002. Gujarat, India Phone: +91 261 4190200 / 2635541-42 | e-Mail : info@shahlon.com | Web. : www.shahlon.com Maintaining world-class quality standards and delivering innovative products have been the foundation of Shahlon group’s manufacturing philosophy. A system of acute quality control involving multiple tests throughout each stage of operation is adopted, ensuring quality, efficiency and dependability of every product. Our wide range of yarn offerings include Applications Textured We produce all types of NIM, SIM, HIM textured and crimp yarn, in all lustres - SD, FD as well as BRT, using interna- tional standard manufactur- ing techniques. Intermingle Our carpet yarn offerings are further expanded through intermingled yarn. Carpet We have been exporting various types of yarns such as micro and high bulk to the carpet manufacturing industry, for products ranging from rugs to wall to wall carpets. Dyed With a capacity of producing 750 tons per month, & world-class infrastructure, we are well-known to meet the dyeing needs of international and local markets. Space Dyed Adding further value to dyed yarn, we also manufacture and supply polyester/ viscose space-dyed yarn. Weaving Furnishing Laces Tapes Carpets Labels Velvet Knitting Government Recognized Star Export House
- 26. 26 TVC |APRIL 2022 OVERVIEW OF SMART FIBRES Sakshi Khool D.K.T.E’S Textile & Engineering Institute, Ichalkaranji ABSTRACT O ver the past few years, smart fibres have seen tremendous growth, especially in terms of research funding and development of start-ups. However, succeeding in reaching the con- sumer market are a very few products. Indeed, one of the main challenges remains the lack of standardised test methods to evaluate properties and performance of smart fibres. In this review paper, we will talk about the history, applications, future readiness of smart fibres. Smart textiles synonymously known as electronic textiles, e-textiles, intelligent textiles, and alike is a class of ma- terials, where textiles play a vital role but where functionalities from other disciplines are added. In technical textile area significant progresses have been achieved in last few years. There are many separate and distinct fields of science and engineering. Considerable movement and convergence has takes place between these fields of endeavour and results have been astonishing. One of these results is Smart technology for materials and structures. Smart textiles are one of the exciting new frontier technologies in engineering and manufacturing. Due advantages in many technologies cou- pled with advances in textile materials and structures smart fibres are possible. Biotechnology, in- formation technology, microelectronics, wearable computers, nanotechnology and micro electro- mechanical machine are included in partial list. There are three categories in which smart fibres are classified according to their function. Results in an outcome named as smart textiles are the amalgamation of electronic components and advanced fibres with manmade textiles extend the field of material science and digital electronics. Often even before we do the world of fashion knows what we want to wear. Be it the trending hemlines or the latest accessories, designers around the world predict and often create the future when it comes to preference. Smart fibres is one thing that has been picked up by a lot of such visionary designers. Smart fibres are created by modified textile material and miniaturised electronic devices [3]. Definition Smart fibres and structures can be defined as mate- rials and structures that can sense and react to envi- ronmental conditions or stimuli , such as those from mechanical, thermal, chemical, electrical, magnetic or other sources. Smart fabrics have been defined as fabrics which are defined and manufactured to include technologies that provide to the user increased func- tionality. Classification Fibres can be divided into three materials according to Smart Fibres
- 27. 27 TVC |APRIL 2022 manner of reaction, smart passive smart, active smart and very smart materials. Sensors, actuators and con- trolling units are three components present in materi- als on which smart fibres are classified. These classifi- cations are as follows: a)Passive smart materials Materials which can only sense to environmental con- ditions or stimuli are called passive smart materials. These fibres are called as first generation of smart fi- bres. Passive smart fabric textiles still fall short of the scope of smart fabric textile in strict sense, and should be more accurately called functional fabric textiles. b) Active smart materials The materials that can sense and react to condition or stimuli are called as active smart fibres. These are also called as second generation of smart fibres. Shape memory fabric textiles are examples of active smart fi- bres. c) Very smart materials The materials can sense, react and adopt themselves accordingly are called as very smart materials. They are also called as advanced smart materials or adap- tive smart fabric textiles. History STEVE MANN is known as “the father of wearable com- puting”. He often refers to the abacus ring as one of the first pieces of wearable technology. There were much effort and researches on smart textiles since the mid of 1980. EU, European space agency, NASA, giant compa- nies and industries like Adidas and industry members are some different groups who put funds to R and D for different end uses. Such researches are carried out by EU, European Space Agency, government agencies, NASA, giant companies and industries like Adidas. The Figure 1: historical review of development of fibres
- 28. 28 TVC |APRIL 2022 5. Smart apparel and footwear in fashion and sport. 6. Workplace safety and manufacturing. Either directly from military R&D or from spin offs the initial application of smart fibres have come. Sensing and responding are the capabilities of smart fibres which are responsible for this application. Future At present, smart textiles are one of focus topics in multi-disciplinary research and target a great variety of applications, smart textiles is a clear priority for the fu- ture of textiles and clothing in developed countries. In recent years, with development of intelligent system, smart fibres have been widely researched. Whether for performance or aesthetic reason, the fo- cus within textile area is on smart fabricsfrom those that change their hue to those that regulate body tem- perature. Smart cothes in future could have self-heal- ing property. Smart fibres in future will monitor our health and help us to keep healthy and fit. The bras can already contain heart rate sensor. Smart textiles market has experienced tremendous growth over the past few years in sections, such as medical, healthcare, automotive and sport industries, where these textiles offer significant potential for med- ical and healthcare applications and make diagnosis far more accurate and quicker. Readiness of smart fibres for market Exponential growth of interest smart and interactive fibres has grown in last few years. With the gradual reduction of component costs, the commercialization aim is to initiate restructuring, strengthening and com- mercial developments of products of smart textiles. Around 1000 years ago, conductive threads and fabrics have been developed which are needed to construct E-textiles. At the end of 19th century, people develop and grew accustomed to electric appliances, design- ers and engineering. They begin to combine electricity with clothing and jewel-designing. At the museum of contemporary craft in New York City, ground breaking exhibition called body covering was held which is fo- cused on relationship between technology and appar- el. The first fully animated sweatshirt was invented by Harry Wainwright, in 1985; which consist of fibre op- tics leads and microprocessor. Application Body conformal antennas for integrated radio equip- ment into clothing, power and data transmission– a personal area network, flexible photovoltaic integrat- ed into textile fabrics, physiological status monitoring to hydration and nutritional status as well as more con- ventional heart monitoring; smart footwear to let you know where you are and to convert and conserve en- ergy and of course, phase change material for heating and cooling of individual. Another application is weav- ing of sensors into parachutes to avoid obstacles and steer parachutes or cargo load to precise location. Shape memory polymers have been applied to textiles in fibres, films and foam forms, resulting in range of high-performance fabrics and garments, especially seagoing garments. Fibre sensors, which are capable of measuring temperatures strain/stress, gas, biolog- ical species and smell, are typically smart fibres that can be directly applied to textiles. Conductive poly- mer-based actuators have achieved very high level of energy density. Applications of smart fibres are as follows: 1. Medical and healthcare monitoring and diagnostics 2. Sportswear and fitness monitoring (bands) 3. Consumer electronics such as smart watches, smart glasses and headsets. 4. Military global positioning system (GPS) trackers, equipment (helmets) and wearable robots. Figure 2: Applications of smart fibres in military
- 29. 29 TVC |APRIL 2022 of many of the smart technologies becomes achiev- able. The demand for intelligent materials to develop electric textiles (e-textiles) and smart apparel is rap- idly growing up for industrial application such as sen- sors, electrostatic discharge, steel corrosion, electro- magnetic interference, shielding, dust free clothing, monitoring, military application and data transfer in clothing and all other field [3]. Smart textiles are not yet ready for the market at large scale, even if smart textiles are gained a certain level of maturity [5]. Numerous fields of applications including different trends fields in leisure and sports, some lifesavings in health care, security and military are new developing sectors captured by smart fibres. Printed electronics and energy harvesting technologies are evolving to meet the demands of new, wearable formats. A lot of work has been performed to make washable ready to market smart textile products and wash ability of smart textile has gained attention now days [5]. Risks involved in using smart fabric The obvious flip side of using smart fibres is the po- tential misuse of their capabilities. There is also per- manent risk of unwanted or unintended body sur- veillance and the erosion of any remaining sense of privacy. One of challenges for manufacturing of smart fabric is achieving seamless and invisible integration of electronic into fabric. Consequently, researchers need to provide fibres with desired electronic functionality without compromising strength, comfort and aesthet- ic apparel [4]. This technology gives uncomforted sensing of the wearer, and a major challenge in wearable comput- ing is how to interconnect these components with soft textile, and find alternatives to silicon, metal, and components with difficult to integrate them in textile. However, the disadvantage of this kind of textile is that the electric component must be removed before wash- ing and it cannot be washed with an electric machine, and so expensive. Both the textile and electronics field should be compliant with requirement by commercial smart textiles. Conclusion Advanced material, polymers, micro-electronics, com- puters and information technology are the areas in which number of researches and development are conducting. These researches are done to develop and advancement of new materials and better commu- nication. Textiles are also changing day by day. There are lots of developments which include lots of appli- cations, which make the life easy and healthy. These products are lifesaving, have protective clothing and importance for medical and healthcare. References 1. Ana M Grancaric, I. j. (2018): Conductive Polymers for Smart Textile Application, Journal of Industrial Textiles, 612-642. 2. Asis Patnaiik, S. P. (2020): Fibres to Smart Textiles . CRC Press. 3. Meinander, H. (2014): Smart and Intelligent Textiles and Fibres, Textiles in Sports , 120-133. 4. S. Lam Po Tang, G. S. (2006): An Overview of Smart Technologies for Clothing Design and Engineering. 5. International Journal of Clothing Science and Tech- nology . 6. SU Zaman, X. T. (2018): Market Readiness of Smart Textile Structures--Reliability and Washability, Material Science and Engineering. 7. Tang, S. L. (n.d.). 8. Tao, X.-M. (2001): Smart Fibres, Fabrics and Clothing: Fundamentals and Application, Woodhead Publishing Limited. Figure 3: Shape memory fibres
- 30. 30 TVC |APRIL 2022 ZR 72XL/ZI 72XL – the modular all-rounder Our new ring- and compact-spinning machines – the direct path to a successful future. Choose between different drafting systems, compact and yarn systems. Benefit from the powerful cutting-edge technology and our modular solutions. Take the step into the future with modern machine intelligence. saurer.com Create perfect ring yarns.
- 31. 31 TVC |APRIL 2022 Major Global Trends: Technical Textile & MMF With 3rd highest and competitive availability of synthetic and MMF fibres and polymers like polyester, PP, nylons and viscose etc, India is now required to get in fast mode to up its global presence in Technical Textiles, with target of raising its technical textiles size to US$ 27 billion by 2026. Shift to growing production of Technical Textiles With reduced post covid retail demand for wear- able textiles and apparels, and with increased availabil- ity of MMF and synthetic fibres of all types and includ- ing the recycled MMF fibres; there is increasing and expanding interest in nonwoven and technical textiles which will lead the global T&C demand at average 7-8 % per annum vis a vis existing growth of 4-4.5% Cotton and its erratic and unyielding prices continue to play havoc for exports of value adding textiles and apparels from many developing countries. With MMF fibres share touching 30-35% in developed economies, It’s the right time for their further growth and con- sumption vis a vis cotton textiles. With this New paradigm shift and present-day scenar- io, this edition of Global Outlook focuses on India s planned initiatives to ramp up technical textile produc- tion and end use and also the exports to slot India once again amid top 3 global producers. The current level of Technical Textiles industry in India The global size of the technical textiles and nonwovens industry and its trade is presently at level of US$260 to 275 billion with a growth of 8%CAGR; which is almost double the growth rate of normal T&C sector at 4 to 4.5%. India’s share. In this fast growing and key textile sector is presently minimal at a total of US$ 20 billion turnover, which is less than 1% of the global size. This is not helping India upgrade its global supplier status. China yet remains the leader, closely followed by Eu- rope, and will be the main engine for driving India s MMF fibre consumption. With 3rd highest and competitive availability of syn- thetic and MMF fibres and polymers like polyester, PP, nylons and viscose etc, India is now required to get in fast mode to up its global presence in Technical Tex- tiles, with target of raising its technical textiles size to US$ 27 billion by 2026. The Key drivers of this growth will be the new and in- By Munish Tyagi Global Textile Leader and Int`l Consultant to Technical Textiles /Nonwovens MMF & Technical Textiles
- 32. 32 TVC |APRIL 2022 creased focus on production of speciality industrial textiles to be end-used in hi-growth and strategic sec- tors like the medical textiles, geotechnical textiles, Aerospace and high-altitude end use where India is very upbeat, the Indian Defence and civil infrastruc- ture segments for creating high speed rail network, new ports, new airports and tunnels and road in high altitude areas like Kashmir, Ladakh and North East and also including a string of new highways, etc. It is now further endorsed that, with double the `de- mand `growth rate versus the traditional T&C textiles, the global textile recovery post Covid is to be led by this new industrial textile sector led by increased availabil- ity of MMF and synthetic fibres/filaments and growing industrial use of `speciality` and advanced materials based on new age fibres like Carbon, Aramide, Ceram- ic and glass fibre, etc. INDIA’s 4 Aces, that is 4 most impactful new policies to help drive the production and use of technical textiles. The Indian Government is now ready to provide to the textile industry with its 4 new aces which will be the key engines of growth for technical textile sector, as also for pushing India’s global T&C share: a. The TTDS scheme, with an outlay of Rs. 160,000 million is being launched to replace the 25-year- old TUF scheme for incentivising the new invest- ment in textile sector. However, the focus will be advanced technology and such indigenous ma- chinery development capabilities. b. The NTTM scheme [that’s is National Technical Textiles Mission spearheaded by Textile Ministry/ GOI] scheme, is being continued with a budget of Rs.10,000 million for the textile industry to venture into high tech projects in technical textiles arena. c. The PLI or the production linked scheme is anoth- er new mega investment scheme to rope in large corporate and global investors into textile industry. The PLI scheme will bring in large output produc- tion and with focus on both MMF fibre use and manufacturing of technical textiles. Already more than 70 serious applications and project Intents have been registered. d. The launch of the MITRA scheme for development and operations of large size or mega Textile Parks to attract large global investment into such world class `play n plug` manufacturing zones in different corners of the country and ideally placed close to the fibre production centres and seaports. India’s competitive advantages v/s global competitions To be able to enhance India’s textile sector size to US$100 billion plus by 2024, and slot itself with aver- age of 8% share in global T&C/Tech textiles trade, India has to emerge as leading China +1 global supplier and lead from front using the competitive advantages such as; Availability and access to all key raw materials and MMF fibres, 2. However, India has to make a strong thrust into de- velop and production of speciality fibres like carbon fibres, Aramides, ceramic, glass and other fibres with special focus on high tech textile end uses that are based on `sustainability` and green issues. 3. India does have the advantage of competitive wag- es, and yet needs to scale up for the production and new markets. India yet needs to address the deficiency and critical gaps areas below India needs to actively pursue free-trade agreements (FTAs) with major export destinations like the EU ,and the US to push apparel shipments amid increasing competition from fast growing rivals like Vietnam, Bangladesh, Turkey, Egypt, and Cambodia that enjoy tariff concessions, under liberal duty free trade agree- ments like GSP+ and TPT 11 and others. India has traditionally enjoyed a comparative advan- tage in the cotton-based textile sector, including ap- parels, and they constitute a major chunk of India’s export basket. However, India’s shift to MMF textiles now has to be immediate and a serious call to enhance its share in the global T&C trade to more than 5% and also to take its rightful place as China+1. Project No. Project Title Project Capacity 1 Export focussed YARN SPG MILLS,OF 25 K spdls,for BCI/ Organic yarns,for Knttg &wvg Approx..20 TPD 2 Cotton Yarn Mill with Ring and OE spg,withInhouse Knitting unit 15 to 20 TP- D,with 5TPD knttg. 3 3.Integrated Yarn Spg.unit of 20 TPD Ring +OE yarns with 10TPD Terry Towelunit 15 to 20 TPD New Textile Projects _3 Nos export oriented *Mail us for Turnkey Proj. Execution.
- 33. 33 TVC |APRIL 2022 Futuristic Twisting Futuristic Twisting Twisting Solutions Twisting Solutions Textiles Textiles FIBC Threads Belting Fabrics Dipped Cords Geo Textiles Bullet Proof Jackets direct twisting + precision winding Tapes / Twines / Multifilament Meera Industries USA, LLC 209, Swathmore Ave, High Point NC, USA 27263 Meera Industries Limited 2126, Road No.2, GIDC, Sachin, Surat 394230 Gujarat, INDIA +91 98795 97041 | sales@meeraind.com | www.meeraind.com
- 34. 34 TVC |APRIL 2022 Mask, Protect it! Nur Hani Aqilah Binti Salehin & Thomas P.S. Ong Nano Textile Sdn Bhd. Email: hani@nanotextileinnovation.com L et us see what 2022 will start with. One obvious thing to be sure of is wearing a mask. Malaysians are still masking either in open places or fully vac- cinated and obviously in crowded places too. Since the Delta and Omicron virus has spread out through the entire country, masking is necessary while double masking has been one step ahead for more protection. Double mask as a new way of life! “In high-risk environments such as hospitals, it is rec- ommended that you wear a double face mask and a face shield” “There is no need for a double face mask in public ar- eas, but it is obligatory to wear a face mask,” said Ma- laysian Health Director-General Tan Sri Dr Noor Hish- am Abdullah. He recommended Malaysians take extra precautions when visiting high-risk public places such as hospitals as at the moment, the infection caused by the Omicron variant of the coronavirus is rapidly spreading throughout the world. This variant is well- known for its high transmissibility rate, but it is not as severe as its ancestor, the Delta variant. Nevertheless, without hesitation and compulsion, we as Malaysians began to take precautionary measures by wearing a double face mask anywhere whether on the train, in the mall, or in the cinema. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) undertook much research in January 2021 to improve mask function and reduce COVID-19 transmission. It was determined that ‘double-masking,’ or knotting the ear loops of a 3-ply mask and adjusting it to fit snugly to the face, can give more protection for the mask-wearer and those around them. Since there are many types of face masks that have been designed such as N95 mask protection, KN95, KF94, surgical mask, 3-ply disposable mask, fabric mask, etc, there are some people who perform double masking incorrectly. Some may just double the 3-ply mask, while others may double the KF94 mask, result- ing in an 8-ply mask that makes breathing difficult and highly discouraged. The method of double masking is simple, it involves putting two different and correct combination types of Source: https://www.cdc.gov/mmwr/volumes/70/wr/mm7007e1.htm?s_cid=mm7007e1_w Double Mask
- 35. 35 TVC |APRIL 2022 face masks on your face. The CDC recommends a 3-ply disposable or surgical face mask with a cloth mask. When double masking, it is critical to ensure that the masks fit exactly against the sides of the face so have no holes for air to flow inside and out. Next level of protection Can you picture doubling your masking while also tri- pling your protection? It has provided you with addi- tional protection against bacteria and some types of viruses. Choosing a cloth mask with antibacterial prop- erties will provide further protection. Antibacterial characteristics are all the rage these days, and their in- corporation into clothes and Muslimah dress has taken it to the next level, particularly in Malaysia. Unfortu- nately, one of the most common questions from buy- ers before purchasing a product is, “How can we know if this product is antibacterial?” Yes, people will not buy the product if they’re unsure. But there will be no loyal customer when there is no first buyer. Hence, at the end of the day, they will buy it with the conviction of the founder or other buyer. This concern has been appearing in antibacterial face mask. But, if people consider on the benefit, truly they will purchase it. One advantage of antibacterial face masks is that they operate as a silent defender. Wheth- er it is a cloth mask or a disposable mask, it helps to reduce the danger of transferring bacteria and viruses into your hands when adjusting it. However, it is im- portant to note that antibacterial face masks cannot destroy the COVID-19 virus, as there is no study to sup- port this claim. If you wonder how an antibacterial face mask works? Click and read at this article for more insight: https://www.nanotextileinnovation.com/covid-19- how-antibacterial-textile-guide-you-through-the-dark- ness/ There are many brands in Malaysia that started to sell the antibacterial face mask mainly for cloth mask, such as Three Little Ahmads, CalaQisya, TudungPeople and for disposable face mask, Yukazan is one of the anti- bacterial face mask producers. How to clean an antibacterial face mask? The face mask with antibacterial characteristics on the inside may be washed as usual. If you buy an antimi- crobial disposable face mask, simply fold the outside corners together and toss it in the trash. If, on the oth- er hand, you purchase an antibacterial fabric mask, you should gentle wash it in room temperature water with a standard grade detergent. However, the fabric mask can also be hand-washed but without chlorine bleach, and the face mask can be dried by hanging damp from a line or bar.
- 36. 36 TVC |APRIL 2022 www.uster.com/qbar2 Inspecting fabrics after weaving is old school. With USTER® Q-BAR 2, smart weavers can pinpoint defects during fabric formation. It’s the right way to reduce material losses and minimize manual checks. When it comes to fabric quality issues, prevention is better than cure. The whole fabric is automatically monitored – warp, weft, selvage and leno – and faults are identified immediately. LEDs signal defect locations to the weaver, with information shown on the control unit touchscreen. It’s automatic inspection, in-process and instant, so weavers can react to prevent long-running or repeating faults. USTER® Q-BAR 2 sets the future standard, controlling the weaving process instead of the output. USTER ® Q-BAR 2 Weave it right: spot defects on the loom
- 37. 37 TVC |APRIL 2022 SETU: Mission & Goals TVC Editorial Team Abstract The Vision of SETU is to contribute in making the Indian Engineering Industry globally competitive. The Mission of SETU is to promote Innovation and Standardisation of all en- gineering machinery and components; enhance Indian exports and reduce dependency on Imports through Import substitution; and to improve global employability of Indian manpower. The Mission of SETU is to promote Innovation and Standardisation of all en- gineering machinery and components; enhance Indian exports and reduce dependency on Imports through Import substitution; and to improve global employability of Indian manpower. Keywords: SETU, CII, FICCI, NDIM, SOP, CEFC S ETU known as Science, Engineering and Techno- logical Upliftment Foundation. A Section 8 Com- pany (Not for Profit Organisation) incorporated under the Companies Act, 2013. Website: www.setu- foundation.co.in. SETU Foundation is an SPV devel- oped by Surat Engineering Vikas Association (SEVA), Surat Textile Machinery Manufacturers’ Association (l) (TMMA), Mumbai along with support of Department of Heavy Industries (DHI), Ministry of Heavy Industries & Public Enterprises, Government of India, Sardar Val- labhbhai Patel Education Society’ (SVPES), Bardoli. The Origin of SETU goes back to an organisation called SEPA – Surat Engineering Professionals Association, founded in 1996, with the purpose to engage Engi- neering Professionals into continuous learning and technological updating. The deliberations resulted in the formation of SEVA – Surat Engineering Vikas Asso- ciation registered Trust in 2008, with the aim of help- ing Engineering industries adopt new technologies and skill development of its workforce. While all the leaders of these organisations were also well connected and associated with many other pro- fessional and business organisations like Southern Gujarat Chamber of Commerce & Industry, All India Electric Motor Manufacturers Association, Textile Ma- chinery Manufacturers Association of India, All India Lift Upliftment Federation, CII, FICCI, etc., their critical observations and interactions with members of indus- try and academia made them realise that Indian Engi- neering Industry lacks global competitiveness due to outdated technologies, unreasonable imports and un- synchronised employee skill development. Members of the industry also expressed concern of huge costs to invest in latest working machinery. This led to a vision to establish a Common Engineering Facility Centre. However, to authenticate the dream and the need, an organised Survey was carried out covering 600 + varied engineering industries. The re- sult was very promising and SEVA took the initiative to establish Science, Engineering and Technological Up- liftment Foundation (SETU) in 2016 with the support of the Textile Machinery Manufacturers Association of India. The Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel Education Society joined this initiative by donating 2.56 acer land to es- SETU - Industry Project
- 38. 38 TVC |APRIL 2022 tablish the Common Engineering Facility Centre. Thus, one organisation after other, led by technocrats, devel- oped SETU Foundation with the solitary vision of mak- ing Indian Engineering Industry globally competitive. 1.1. The Approach We intend to achieve the objectives by becoming a One Point Service Provider to MSMEs & Heavy Indus- tries through: A Common Engineering Facility Centre (CEFC) equipped with world class machineries with latest technology; Strategic tie-ups with Technocrats, Design Software suppliers, Academic Institutes Gov- ernment departments, Business Associations and related interests. 2. Methodology 2.1. Setu Activity Verticals SETU intends to achieve the Objectives by establishing/ undertaking activities under the following verticals: 1. Product/Prototype Development Centre 2. Design Centre 3. Skill Development Centre 4. Testing & Calibration Centre 5. Heat Treatment Centre 2.2. Common engineering facility centre Facilities Planned: 1. World Class Engineering Workshop 2. Training & Conference Facility 3. Product Exhibition Gallery 4. Testing & Calibration Centre 2.3. Strategic tie-ups MoUs with: 1. Surati iLab (Surat intellectual and innovation Labora- tory), Surat Municipal Corporation 2. MBI –South Korea 3. IPFC (Intellectual Property Facilitation Centre), Ahmedabad 4. NDIM, (New Delhi Institute of Management) New Delhi 5. Sopan Infotech -Design Centre 6. SEVA MoU with NID/NSIC/MSMEDI/etc. 7. Various Engineering Colleges 8. Industry & Professional Bodies 2.4. Professional Approach SETU Foundation has been established to become a fully professional organisation. To ensure that it be- comes a System Driven Organisation, we have estab- lished the following SOPs: 1. Administration SOP 2. Human Resource Management SOP 3. Accounts & Records Keeping SOP 4. Procurement SOP We are now in the process of formulating Policies & Guidelines for development of activities under each vertical. Conclusion SETU is a social enterprise. The goal is to facilitate In- dustry and academia, not to generate much financial profit. We intend to provide a platform to raise the standards of the industry and make it globally compet- itive. The CEFC is a big step in the direction and is ex- pected to benefit MSEs to utilise the facility and ensure quality products at competitive prices. However, more than the financial gain, focus has been laid on the benefit to academia, industry, and the na- tion. The nation will be benefited by better productiv-
- 39. 39 TVC |APRIL 2022 ity, better employability, better quality products, en- hanced exports, and less dependence on imports, and will be proud to be one of the most technologically advanced nations. To become a true superpower, India needs an impact- ful paradigm shift in upgrading technologies, upgrad- ing skills, upgrading efficiencies and upgrading mind- set. SETU aims to take a lead in this process and the CEFC is one of its tools to do so. We need wholeheart- ed support from various stakeholders in this massive endeavour, thus fulfilling our collective Corporate So- cial Responsibility and Individual Social Responsibility. References 1) National Science Foundation (US): Directorate for Education, and Human Resources. Shaping the future: New expectations for undergraduate education in sci- ence, mathematics, engineering, and technology. Vol. 1. National Science Foundation, Division of Undergrad- uate Education, 1996. 2) Zheng, Yongnian: Technological empowerment. Stanford University Press, 2022. 3) Zheng, Yongnian: Technological empowerment. Stanford University Press, 2022. 4) Atkins, Daniel Ewell: Revolutionising science and engineering through cyberinfrastructure: Report of the National Science Foundation blue-ribbon advisory panel on cyberinfrastructure. National Science Foun- dation, 2003. 5) Monyooe, Lebusa, and Steve Ledwaba: “Information and Communication Technologies for Women Empow- erment: South Africa’s Unfinished Agenda,” Instruc- tional Technology (2004).
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- 43. 43 TVC |APRIL 2022 LATEST TREND IN KNITTING INDUSTRY IN SURAT TVC Editorial Team Towards the end of the seventeenth century, Surat began to decine as the trade capital by virtue of many reasons like the defeat of the Mughal Em- pire and lack of business areas and proficiency, control over the sea cours- es by the Portuguese and challenge from Bombay (present day Mumbai) from the East India Company. But in the 21st century Surat has emerged as a key weaving area with the annual turnover of twist weaving area in the city fixed at Rs1,000 crore. S urat, an emerging and growing city in the prov- ince of Gujarat, is known as the material city of Gujarat. The warp knitting sector is the country’s biggest man-made-fibres (MMF) focus in the city. As perrecentfigures,textileproduction in Surathasgrown by 10% in the last 5 years, while the market for embroi- dery has grown from an almost negligible amount to around Rs. 30000 million over the same period. Regardless of being new for the Surat market, the city is now known for knitting and weaving industry. Today, Surat has in excess of 300 twist sewing machines and another 100 are currently under establishment. Su- rat has already stabilised machine in knitting industry as Circular knitting matching, Warp knitting machine, Raschel Machine n which production range is 4500 tons per month, 6400 tons per month, 1500 tons per month, respectively. The pattern is not restricted to greater players, and, surprisingly, the little and medi- um players are likewise putting resources into twist sewing machines, however quite possibly a couple of machines. While the homegrown market is essentially utilising twist sewn textures in kidswear and women articles of clothing, the worldwide business sectors are getting for athletic apparel, underwear and specialised Knitting in Surat
- 44. 44 TVC |APRIL 2022 materials. Almost 30 million meters of fabrics of crude texture and 25 million meters of handled texture are delivered in Surat every day. The city has a few materials busi- ness sectors that exist since days of yore. Zampa Ba- zaar, Bombay Market, JJ Textile Market and Jash Mar- ket are among them. Katat Gam, Magdalla and Udhana are the areas of Surat where assembling is for the most part done. Over time, individuals from different spots like Rajasthan and Kolkata got comfortable in Surat to do their material business. Warp knitted fabrics are extensively used for sports- wear, lingerie, shoes, car seat covers, and mattresses along with technical textiles The Surat textile industry has grown considerably over time. One of the main reasons behind the growth of Surat’s textile industry is the city’s ability to adapt to changes and the latest trends. The city is quick to respond to any changes in the preferences of people. The industrialists here have strong entrepreneurial skills. Most of the traders have a fixed group of clients, with whom they trade. Most of the business is done on a credit basis. According to the Federation of Surat Textile Traders Association, the industry suffered a loss of Rs. 200 crore in 2004-05 on account of malpractices. The industry suffered a huge loss in the floods of 2006 as well. Around 40,000 textile shops were damaged in Surat in these floods and the total loss was reported to be at Rs.10 crore per day. However, the city has always been quick to rise from these setbacks. Warp knitted fabrics are extensively used for sports- wear, lingerie, shoes, car seat covers and mattresses along with technical textiles like automobile filtration, lining and pocketing mesh. Most of the units in Surat and elsewhere manufacture better quality products than China. The Surat textile industry has grown considerably over time. One of the main reasons behind the growth of Surat’s textile industry is the city’s ability to adapt to changes and the latest trends.
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- 46. 46 TVC |APRIL 2022 “Gimatex ALWAYS FOCUSES ON COTTON VALUE ADDITION” TVC Editorial Team Gimatex replied to a TVC Questionnaire. Ex- cerpts: Mohota Group has a glorious history of over 125 years in the textile industry. Tell us about some of the important highlights, achievements, mile- stones during this journey. The Graph below tells you the story so far….. [From Left to Right: Vineet Kumar Mohota – Director (Finance), Basant Kumar Mohota – Chairman, Prashant Kumar Mohota – MD, Anurag Kumar Mohota – Director (Works)] interview - Gimatex
- 47. 47 TVC |APRIL 2022 According to you, how has the industry im- proved over the last few decades? Over the years we see that industry has significantly improved in terms of efficiency in its processes innova- tions for the products and delivering a cause effective and sustainable product solution for deserving cus- tomers. Huge improvement has taken place in terms of finishes in various fabrics so that it can sustain and last for longer use and as per the product application. Technology has improved significantly where we see machines talking to the computers and all kinds of data availability for making quick and improved deci- sion making. How did you celebrate 125 years of Mohota Group and 25 years of Gimatex? What is the future course for the company? On 25th of March, 2022, Gimatex celebrated its 25th anniversary and 125 years of textile history of the Mo- hota group. On this momentous occasion, Gimatex in- augurated its new manufacturing facilities, namely the 10 TPD Open End Unit at Wani and the 25 TPD Spin- ning Unit at Hinganghat Integrated Textile Park. Fur- thermore, Gimatex also launched its Premium e-com- merce Apparel brand ‘Minus One’ in the same event. Various dgnitaries from across India and abroad graced the occasion. Mr. Sanjay Jayavarthanavelu, Chairman of Lakshmi Machine Works was the Chief Guest and Mr. Ajay Arora, MD of D’Decor, was the guests of Hon- our. Other prominent personalities included Kishanji Poddar (Siyarams), Mr. Hisahiro Koketsu (MD, Toyota), Pankaj Sarda (Jt. MD, Sarda Energy & Minerals), Man- ish Kumar, Mr. Anil Jain, Mr. Aditya Jain and Mr. Mas- ayuki Yamamoto among many others. It is pertinent to note that, Gimatex’s first manufac- turing facility in Wani started operations in 1997 and has entered a period of constant expansions and rap- id growth. The new Open End Unit at Wani adds yarn manufacturing capability to manufacture recycled fibre based fabrics. At Hinganghat Integrated Textile Park, the new spinning facility adds further 32,000 spindles to their existing capacity of 1,68,000 spindles. Combined, these new units also contribute to tremen- dous employment in the local region to the tune of ad- ditional 500 people. The dedication, integrity and pas- sion with which all the family members have served the company has led to the 6th generation of the Mo- hota family to continue in the same business. Gimatex has always focused on value addition in the cotton sector. By launching Minus One Gimatex has completed an integration from Cotton Fibres to Fash- ion segment and added tremendous value to the cot- ton lifecycle. Moreover, by using only Vidharbha cot- ton in their products, Gimatex is supporting the local farmers and alleviating the difficulties faced by them in recent times. Previously, Gimatex had installed a sci- entific cotton seed processing unit to add value to the Cotton chain, and with Minus One they have extended this philosophy further. On this important occasion, Gimatex has made a com- mitment of contributing Rs. 25 per pc sale of Minus One Apparel & Rs. 100 per Quintal sale on GIMA WHITEGO- LD Cotton Seed Refined Oil. This contribution will be used for welfare of the cotton farming community. Additionally, to mark the celebrations of the milestone year, Gimatex has taken over the maintenance and upkeep of the main squares, fountains and decorative lightings of Hinganghat Town, from Subhash Chowk to Tukdoji Chow. They also felicitated 18 staff members who have served them for more than 35 years in a short programme at their Club House. Gimatex has always received great support from the local community. Through their development activi- ties, they have always focused on the growth of the local areas and will continue to do so in future. As they mark their special occasion in 2022, Gimatex wishes that we continue to stand with them on their onward
- 48. 48 TVC |APRIL 2022 journey. Sabka Saath, sabka vikaas! Cotton and cotton yarn prices and market have been in a flux for many months now. How has it been for Gimatex? How have you managed to keep margins and supplies intact in this situation? Your advice to the industry? Yes, the prices have skyrocketed in the last one and half year particularly more so after the Corona Pandemic, it has been very complicated for spinners if we consider today’s cotton price we do not find any margin in terms of Yarn spinning for the reason that costs have signifi- cantly gone up in terms of labour, power as well as cost of all other inputs. Yes, we have been able to keep our margins only because of the right timing of fibre purchase and ensuring that quality cotton is acquired through our ginning operations. A much-used statement – Weaving and processing are the weak links in the Indian textile industry. Your views, given that you are an integrated textile manufacturer. Yes, definitely the downstream processes like weaving / knitting and their processing as well as apparels re- main to be the weak links in the Indian textile industry. If we see besides us ie Bangladesh, we see that they have really developed themselves in terms of garment manufacturing which is ensuring a pull for the back- ward processes starting from spinning and therefore the country is self-sufficient in itself in catering or ex- panding in textile operations in time to come. In India now with the aid of PLI and many other incentives scheme like RODTEP, ROSTCL, we see some shift hap- pening towards large scale manufacturer coming in the field of garmenting where we need corporate entities to make an efficient garment operation. Any expansion, diversification plans? Recent investment - Bela Unit for spinning 32000 Spin- dles for Viscose & Cotton Compact yarns, Wani Unit - Open end Unit for making PC & Cotton Coarse count yarns (7 to 20ne), Processing Unit Ahmedabad, Dholka - Soft Flow machines for processing of Viscose based fabrics. Upgradation of ETP to ZLD (Zero Liquid Dis- charge) setup, along with MEE & Sludge dryer. Upcoming expansion - New 32,000 Spindles & new air- jet looms 120 and weaving preparatory How do you expect the Russia-Ukraine conflict to impact the Indian and international textile industry? How are you preparing to safeguard your interests? Advice to the industry? I am yet to exactly understand how this will impact but given the current scenario it seems that this war is go- ing to last pretty long and it will definitely affect the consumer interest in European countries; therefore I believe India’s exports to Europe will definitely get af- fected in short term as well as long term. Yeah, my advice to the industry in the current scenario would only be to ensure that the customer base ex- pands from European Nations to other alternatives like South American and far Eastern countries as well so that we are able to hedge our rest in case Europe or some Western countries try to sanction India for taking a neutral stand on Russian Ukraine conflict. You should also try and ensure that whatever market is being cre- ated because of China plus one policy is also garnered by Indian operations or Indian products.
- 49. 49 TVC |APRIL 2022 Gimatex, IN SILVER JUBILEE YEAR, READY TO SPIN MORE SUCCESSES TVC Editorial Team It was a small beginning for Gimatex in 1997 with 25,000 spindles, and today with a turnover of over Rs. 1600 crore, Gimatex’s integrated units are ready to spread wings with new projects and products on all its fronts. G imatex Industries Pvt Ltd celebrated 25 years of its existence recently at its plants near Nag- pur with grandeur and pomp. The company, which is engaged in the manufacturing of cotton yarn, blended yarn, fabrics and cotton seeds oil, has come a long way, its journey marked with great achievements and landmarks. March 25, 2022 was a grand day for Gimatex with the inauguration of new plants and launching of new prod- ucts. And it was at the presence of the chief guest, Mr. Sanjay Jayavarthanavelu, CMD of Lakshmi Machine Tools and Guest of Honour Mr. Ajay Arora apart from a crowd of its workforce, total of which today counts to 5000. Gimatex Industries Pvt. Ltd. was established in 1993 and was earlier known as Rai Saheb Rekhchand Mo- hota Spinning & Weaving Mills Limited (RSR). After the realignment of family ownership structure in 2005, the new entity of GitmaTex came into being. The company has five manufacturing facilities, with four located at Hinganghat, Yerla, Wani & Bela near Nagpur and one in Ahmedabad. Gimatex is not only one among the oldest and most successful companies in the textile industry in India but has a remarkable growth potential. Gimatex’s triumphs are on many fronts. It recorded a turnover of over Rs. 1600 crore in 2021-2022. To- day Gimatex is a totally integrated unit with Ginning, Spinning, Weaving and Processing units under its roof. Their plants are situated in the core of cotton develop- ing belt of India which guarantees more limited lead times and quality choice of its natural materials. The organisation has already expanded into the area of scientific cotton-seed processing by setting up a first Gossypol free cotton seed protein feast plant alongside a coordinated cotton oil treatment facility. The compa- ny’s authorised capital stands at Rs 1500 lakh and has 75.0% paid-up capital which is Rs 1125 lakh. Mr. Ajay Arora was welcomed by Mr. B. K. Mohota. Mr. Ajay Arora said he has noticed the energies and en- thusiasm in the Mohota family and their labour force to carry on the heritage for an additional 125 years with the equivalent energy and excitement. Mr. Sanjay Jayavarthanavelu stated that the progress of the Mo- hota family in the unpredictable material business has been on account of its discipline, central and long haul vision. Mr. B. K. Mohota in his invite address expressed that since its beginning Gimatex has the track on a steady extension and fast development way. Express- ing that the material business overall and Gimatex in particular is going through a brilliant time, Mr. Mohota informed that from a turnover of Rs. 70 crore in 1997, Gimatex went on to clock Rs. 1650 crore turnover in the 2021-2022 financial year. Corporate profile
- 50. 50 TVC |APRIL 2022 Mr. Prashant Mohota stated that the general vision of Gimatex is to give premium quality items to its insight- ful clients by utilising most recent logical innovations with the most aggressive way at all conceivable time. Giving details of the two new plants, Mr. Prashant Mo- hota informed that Gimatex has set-up another 32,000 axle turning unit having conservative cotton yarns and its mixes (particularly cellulose) with addition of one more 32000 shaft unit for polyester blends. The subsequent plant is the new Open-End Unit with most recent in material innovation with a capacity to utilise reused strands with the most elevated level of pollution control, he informed. Dwelling upon the creation limits of the Gimatex, Mr. Prashant Mohota informed that the turning limit is 2 lakh axles with a 3000 tons limit for every month. Stating that Gimatex has continuously been on a development binge, Mr. Vineet Mohota informed that the capital speculation during the 2022 has been reserved at Rs. 820 crore. The 2022-2023 turnover is projected at Rs. 1850 crore containing Rs. 600 crore of products and equilibrium Rs. 1250 crore of homegrown deals, he said. Mr. An- urag Mohota said foraying into clothing area has sat- isfied the Gimatex vision of serving the whole store network from ‘Homestead to Fashion’. Gimatex has primarily a large spinning capacity catering to the variety of needs of the customers. Starting from 25000 spindles in the year 1996, today the company has more than 100,000 spindles with utmost modern production and testing facilities which delivers supe- rior total value to the customer. The state-of-the-art machines have been imported from Switzerland, Ger- many, Japan etc. and is managed by top technocrats in the country. Its machinery profile tops all brands: Blow Room – LMW & Trutzschler with Automatic Bale Plucker, Unimix, CVT; Contamination Detector – Uster Securomat SP-S; Carding – LMW LC 300 A, LC 333 & Trutzschler DK 800; Drawing – LMW RSB 851 & Riet- er RSB D-35; Combing – LMW LK 250, LK 54 & Rieter E65; Sizing / Warping – Benninger Direct & Sectional Warping Machine, Benninger Sizing Machine; Humidi- fication – Luwa; Looms – Toyota Airjet JAT710, Picanol Omni Plus (with quick style change) – 125. Gimatex has been a leading supplier of woven textile fabrics for various industrial and consumer use. The huge capacity and advantage of in-house spinning makes sure that the cost and quality advantages are transferred to the customer with on-time deliveries. Its quality policy is to consistently meet or exceed its cus- tomer’s expectation for quality product & performance by continual improvement of processes & systems. The group has carved a niche for itself by investing in lean manufacturing processes appropriate information technology tools & operation research tools. Further, state-of-the-art manufacturing facility and quality monitoring system ensures the delivery of superior to- tal value to the customer. Its quality assurance person- nel are well qualified & experienced in quality control and are devoted all the time for collecting & analysing data from online and offline quality monitoring system. Located in the heart of cotton woven fabric process- ing centre i.e. Ahmedabad, Gimatex Processing unit houses modernised machinery capable of producing innovative & quality fabric for Printing and Dyeing. Va- riety of fabrics like Cotton, Viscose, Polyester and their blends, for making Dress material, Suitings, Shirtings, Bed Sheets, etc. to cater demands of Indian as well as export markets. It is also equipped with fully mod- ern Chemical Laboratory with testing equipment like Computerized Colour matching, Tensile Strength Tes- ter, Tearing Strength Tester, Laundrometer for wash- ing, crock meter, sublimation fastness tester. Baby pad batch dyeing machine, Sample Rotary Printing Ma- chine, Colour Cabinet etc. Located in the heart of cotton woven fabric processing centre i.e. Ahmed- abad, Gimatex Processing unit hous- es modernised machinery capable of producing innovative & quality fab- ric for Printing and Dyeing.
- 51. 51 TVC |APRIL 2022 Plot no. 244/25, Sajitha Complex, GIDC, Umbergaon-396171 Amritlakshmi Brand stands for its consistency self- researching, Designing, and Manufacturing, Selling and After-Sale Service all under one roof with experts capable of prompt Service to each Customer through an excellent network of Agents. With Amritlakshmi You are Always Ahead!! The Oldest – The Most Experienced – Most Dependable- For Any Yarn, Ay Loom, Any Width ◘ Warping, Sizing Beaming Systems Either 2 Tier (Creel to Beam System) 3 Tier (Beam to Beam System) for Continuous Filament Yarn – Polyester /Nylon / Viscose ◘ Direct Warper with Creel for Spun Yarn (Cotton/ Blended, PV, PC, Jute) ◘ Multi Cylinder Sizing Machine for Spun Yarn (Cotton/ Blended, PV, PC Jute) ◘ PLC Controlled 7-9 Motors, Inverter Driven Double Sow Box Multi Cylinder Sizing Machine for High Speed Shuttle less Loom for Varieties of Yarn. ◘ Pre-Beaming (Warping) for Jute Yarn ◘ Dressing Machine (Sizing) for Jute Yarn ◘ Direct Beaming from Creel for Industrial Yarn fabric/Carpet/ Jute/Flex/PP/ Nylon Yarn/ Size Chemical Preparation Plant for Sizing. +91 - 80800 62392 amritlakshmi@amritlakshmi.com www.amritlakshmi.in Range of Products
- 52. 52 TVC |APRIL 2022 USHA INTERNATIONAL IS INCREASING FOOTPRINT IN EAST: P.K. SAHNI Ushahasbeenthemarketleaderinthesewingmachine category for decades and is the harbinger of revival and growth of the sewing machine industry. This enduring leadership position has been possible because of the company’s ability to constantly innovate, anticipate, and even create consumer demand, said Mr. Parveen Kumarr Sahni, President, Sewing Machines Business, Usha International, in an exclusive interview with the Textile Value Chain. Excerpts: How did COVID-19 impact the business of your company in the last two years? How did it manage? While COVID-19 had an adverse impact on many busi- nesses, for the sewing machine category it proved to be the opposite. As consumers looked to cope with the ‘new normal’, they invested in creative hobbies and passions that brought joy to them as they stayed cooped in homes shuffling between household chores and office work. One of the hobbies that gained favour during the pandemic-driven lockdowns was sewing, not just for functional purposes but also as a means of creative DIY – another trend that really saw increas- ing popularity during this period. For countless people across India, sewing became an enjoyable hobby, a pleasant way to explore one’s creative potential that also kept stress and anxiety at bay. In fact, many turned this passion into a viable business while confined to their homes. All of these saw a huge surge in the Do- It-Yourself/hobby culture, giving an impetus to sewing machine sales. Being the pioneers of the sewing ma- chine in India, Usha realised the need of the hour – to tutor and guide those keen on learning and honing their sewing skills not only on how to choose the sew- ing machine that would cater to their needs but also how the machine works. The wide range of sewing machines Usha offer caters to the varying needs across new as well as experienced hobbyists – from the basic to the really high-end – each of which is user-friendly and enables the custom- er to take their skills up many notches. Usha offers free online ‘Learn Create’ sewing tutorial videos on Ush- aSew.com, which are easy-to-follow extensive step-by- step demos for all consumers. The pandemic also opened up another business verti- cal to the sewing industry -- textile factories across the country began to also cater to the demand for a com- Interview- Usha International
- 53. 53 TVC |APRIL 2022 pletely new category of products -- masks and PPE kits. All of these led to an upward growth curve for house- holds as well as industrial sewing machines. What are the new launches in sewing ma- chines? What is their USP? At Usha International, we keep consumers at the core of our business – developing products that help fulfil their needs/aspirations thus transforming their lives. Our aim is straightforward – to be the best at what we do to build the category as well as the industry as we offer products that combine the latest innovation in design, technology, and performance. Listening to consumer feedback and insights and their evolving preferences, Usha International has launched a slew of innovative, technologically advanced user-friendly sewing machines in the last couple of years each cater- ing to a specific audience – Quilt Magic, Design Craft, Sew Magic, MC 8200 QCP SE, Style Stitch, and Mys- tique and Usha Memory Craft Skyline S-9 with Artistic Digitizer and Memory Craft 9850, Usha 6700P, Usha Memory Craft 550E. These machines cater to the needs of growing num- bers across hobbyists and commercial establishments across the country, offering a range of technological- ly superior features to up the ante for serious sew- ists, who want both precision control and perfection. Equipped with Japanese technology, each of these machines is extremely user-friendly making it easy for consumers to take their creativity to the next level. Additionally, all the new embroidery machines from Usha come with the Artistic Digitizer, a user-friendly embroidery designing software that is compatible with both Windows and iOS, simplifying digitization of im- ages, and enabling specialised embroidery like Stipple fill, Net fill, Array fill, and Monogramming. These ma- chines also allow free-motion embroidery for all tex- tile arts, quilting, dressmaking, home furnishings, and more. It’s the ultimate tool in the hands of the right user, to transform the ordinary into the extraordinary, using creativity and skill. Give us details of the evolution of the sewing machines industry in India – growth, trends, and forecast. The sewing machine industry in India has seen a renais- sance of sorts in the last few decades with consumers rediscovering sewing as a hobby. With the evolution of the sewing machine from the manual black machines of the yore, today, we have a slew of high-tech auto- mated sewing machines catering to the varied needs of the consumers from the simple to the complex. This perception of sewing has undergone a transfor- mation and the new age machines have set off a re- vival of sewing as a life-skill, an art, a creative hobby, and a Do-It-Yourself (DIY) trend. For Usha Internation- al, which has been the pioneer and market leader in the sewing machines industry in India for decades, the growth has majorly come from developing products that cater to the needs of ever-evolving consumers. We are constantly learning from what customers tell us, aspirational trends, and therefore offering products that further grow this market. New products are de- signed keeping in mind explicit needs to enable sewing enthusiasts to do more i.e. stitching, embroidery, and quilting. In fact, we witnessed a healthy growth of approximate- ly 15% in our sewing machines business in 2020-21 and grew substantially in the Automatic Zig Zag (white ma- chines) category, gaining over 65% market share in this category in FY 20-21. As consumers continue to evolve, our focus is to offer better and more evolved products and engage with our consumers by creating a 360* eco-system that offers them help in selecting the right machine for themselves, as well as teaching sewing skills through innovative platforms and associations. Target markets and how much growth is con- tributed from the specific market? As a brand, Usha International caters to audiences across India, agnostic of age, gender, and geography. We offer machines suitable for kids as young as 8 years, all the way up to senior citizens in their 70s – basically, everyone who wants to learn, grow, create, and fur- ther their passion for sewing. Demography-wise, we have a very loyal and strong customer base both in rural and urban markets across the country. Going by recent trends that we have wit- nessed, people in the southern region are more in-
- 54. 54 TVC |APRIL 2022 clined towards pursuing sewing and quilting as a hob- by, which is closely followed by the West and North markets. A key point to note here is that the North and West markets are currently emerging and growing at a faster pace and are expected to become very big in the coming years. Besides these new markets, we have also seen a grow- ing demand in the East where we are increasing our footprint by holding product demos and localised pro- motions to engage closely with our customers. Sales in semi-urban and rural areas are thriving, and urban centres such as Delhi, Mumbai, Chennai, and Kolkata are growing as expected. How about the RD efforts of Usha Interna- tional? Usha sewing machines have enriched the lives of In- dians since 1934 when the company first became op- erational from a factory in Kolkata. Over the past nine decades, consumer centricity has been at the core of products we make – consumer insights, feedback, mar- ket gaps, and customer needs – the brand takes all of these into consideration and has constantly tried to launch products offering the best-in-class value prop- osition. We have a robust RD team in place, for the sewing machine category, that focuses on driving brand rele- vance by being committed to understanding custom- ers’ evaluation criteria covering both aesthetics and performance. For us, maintaining brand relevance goes hand in hand with ensuring we continue to win the trust and loyalty of our customers. The team remains committed to building demand for sewing machines by offering easy-to-use innovative products that appeal to customers and offer the best creativity, technology, and safety. For decades now, we have had a strategic partnership with Janome Sewing Machine Co. ltd. to bring Japanese technology to India in the form of an innovative, technologically advanced range of sewing machines. These products are easy to use, allow for customised creativity, and are within the acceptable price range as proved by ever-increasing annual sales. (Would require further inputs from Usha BU team on RD efforts). Usha’s strategy and outlook for sewing ma- chines business Ushahasbeenthemarketleaderinthesewingmachine category for decades and is the harbinger of revival and growth of the sewing machine industry. This en- during leadership position has been possible because of the company’s ability to constantly innovate, antic- ipate, and even create consumer demand. We have traversed the entire spectrum of the market, from ur- ban to rural India, from the lowest to the highest, with state-of-the-art products, as well as by developing the ecosystem that provides end-to-end solutions for ev- ery kind of needs of consumers viz. product, teaching/ skilling, online tutorials as well as post-sales service. We are aggressively building the hobby and creativity market through awareness and teaching support pro- vided through - The hab – a one-of-its-kind experiential store that provides workshops for the creative curious minds, demos and workshops, and blogs and online tu- torials on our website UshaSew.com Additionally, amidst the pandemic, we witnessed a lot of older people going back to sewing, a skill they learned in their growing years, and many youngsters picking it up afresh. They took it up for various reasons – stress relief, recreational activity, creativity, and in many cases even as an income source. This pandemic also led to another shift in customer preference – there was a marked shift from the unorganized sector to the organized as customers were looking at the overall val- ue offering, which bode well for our business. Given these trends, we are positive about the future outlook of the sewing market and we expect it to grow sub- stantially in the next five years. We have a robust RD team in place, for the sewing machine cate- gory, that focuses on driving brand relevance by being committed to un- derstanding customers’ evaluation criteria covering both aesthetics and performance.
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- 56. 56 TVC |APRIL 2022 SUSTAINABILITY IS AT THE HEART OF OUR EVERY MOVE: SAMMIR DATTANI TVC Editorial Team Sanathan Textiles, a global supplier of cotton yarns, polyester yarns and yarns for technical textiles, has three yarn business verticals giving the company the unique opportunity to offer a wide variety of yarns that are used by various sectors and indus- tries, across applications and end-uses. Having a technologically advanced and environmentally conscious manufacturing setup enables us to offer customers value-added yarns, niche yarns, func- tional yarns and a wide range of coloured yarns. Promoted by the Dattani family with 100+ years of cumulative experience in the yarn industry and managed by a professional and experienced team, Sanathan Textiles is committed to its aim of pro- viding value added innovative yarns for the fabric of our lives. Mr. Paresh Dattani is the Managing Di- rector of the company. Mr.Sammir Dattani, Executive Director of Sana- than Textiles replied to the Textile Value Chain’s Questionnaire. Excerpts: Your company seems to be a leading firm in yarns. When did the journey begin and what is the progress till now? As a family we have been in the yarn business for 75 years. Over the years Sanathan textiles has expanded manufacturing into 3 yarn businesses/segments name- ly – polyester filament yarns (PFY), cotton yarns and yarns for technical textiles. Our key focus has been on the yarn segment of the tex- tile chain since its the base of the entire textile eco-sys- tem. We have the opportunity to supply our products to many industries, sectors and end-uses. In the last 5 years we have seen the yarn business in PFY evolving a lot making it a very exciting space with ample opportunity for innovation and value addition. Mr. Sammir Dattani Mr. Paresh Dattani Interview – Sanathan Textiles
- 57. 57 TVC |APRIL 2022 How was the functioning during the severe stages of the pandemic? Initially we were all affected due to the lock down restrictions because of COVID, but once production resumed in June 2020, things only improved every month. The demand due to China +1 factor has been very strong from customers around the world, enhanc- ing export demand for all textile products from India. What about the venture into technical tex- tiles? Give us a glimpse. Started in the year 2017-2018, our division of Yarns for Technical textile Industrial uses, has been equipped with the most advanced manufacturing setup, de- signed and delivered by Oerlikon Barmag Germany of- fering high tenacity yarns which are used for a wide variety of applications, from 600 to 6000 denier. Technical and Industrial use yarns are deemed to be the highest discipline in filament manufacturing and can pose a significant challenge for the manufactur- ers. However, our expert and professional team tackle these challenges to create the best technical and in- dustrial yarns for our customers. Regular Shrinkage, Low Shrinkage, Super Low Shrink- age, BornDyed™ Coloured Yarns for Technical Textile are some of our product offerings. What are the brands you have developed and what are their USPs and benefits for the us- ers? We have started marketing a lot of our value added yarns, like performance yarns and functional yarns, un- der the “Sanathan” brand for better marketing, prod- uct differentiation and customer recall. Some of the branded products we currently offer are mentioned below – • BornDyed™ - Our rage of eco-friendly coloured yarns. We offer a large variety of shades and co- lours. We also offer customized, Made to Order co- lours #OurYarnYourColour • Sanathan Stretch™ – Yarns which add freedom of motion and movement to the garments. • Sanathan DryCool™ Yarns – innovative polyester yarns designed with moisture-wicking properties to keep you cool and dry. • Sanathan Reviro™ - our range of GRS certified Re-cycled yarns made from waste PET bottles. Helping you make responsible choices. Above are some of our current brands. We are contin- uously developing innovative yarns to strengthen our product portfolio which will be in sync with the cus- tomer demands. Other than yarns, what are the new plans for the future? The yarn manufacturing space is going through a very exciting phase, currently our focus is completely on our yarn business and we have our hands full with the same at the moment. Whatisyourset-upininfrastructureandRD? Our current plant located in DNH (Dadra and Nagar Haveli) produces three yarn segments – polyester, cot- ton technical textiles. It is an integrated setup providing customers a one stop shop for a wide variety of yarn requirements. We have equipment designed and supplied by global leaders in the yarn manufacturing industry – Oerlikon Barmag, Reiter, LMW, TMT Japan, Aiki, Alidhra. Our setup is abled with the appropriate amount of au- tomation and technology to enable our team with bet- ter and more consistent performance. • Our plant provides automatic doffing, transporta- tion and package handling systems to meet global inventory management standards. • We also have automated warehouse management
- 58. 58 TVC |APRIL 2022 system to ensure high efficiency, less damage and better inventory management in a limited space- We have a dedicated and skilled team for process management, quality control and research de- velopment. Focusing on developing new yarns to carter to varied end use and applications across multiple industries. Our experienced team is focussed on this endeavour to ensure we be ahead of the curve in making high val- ue-added yarn products. We achieve the above by focusing on the below • Updating our lab facility with the latest equipment • Constant product benchmarking • Finding the problem and then working a solution • Understanding the customer’s purpose and desire What is your wish-list for the industry and the Government? Our government has been very proactive and support- ive to the textile industry. Announcements such as the PLI scheme and the recent Textile Technology Devel- opment Scheme (TTDS) have created lots of excite- ment and growth prospect for the industry. The world is looking at an alternative supplier to Chi- na. The textile industry has seen tremendous demand boost from around the world due to the China +1 fac- tor and now with the right government initiatives and support, India can surely reap the benefits. Locally the inverted GST structure is a hurdle for MMF manufactures which the ministry is aware of. Some prompt and amicable solution for the entire industry is expected soon. Views on Sustainability, Recycling, Waste management Sustainability is at the heart of every decision we make at Sanathan Textiles. Whether its regarding business, people, or our surrounding. With the second gener- ation fully involved in the running of the business at Sanathan Textiles, we are aware of the importance of climate change and are keen to introduce measures to help reduce our carbon footprint as an organization. - Keeping in sync with these ethos we installed a 2.3MW solar power facility for in-house supply of re- newable power. - We recently converted all our packaging carton to FSC paper. - We have already installed Solutions at our facility for systematic disposal of waste. Our foray into BornDyed™️ coloured yarns, which uses dope dyed technology to produce colour polyester yarn is an eco-friendly solution to producing coloured yarns. Reducing consumption of chemicals and shortening the supply chain helps in reduced production costs and ensures the ecological footprint of the final products is in check. As the demand for sustainable textile increases, we at Sanathan have decided to contribute by producing yarn from PET chips which are made from waste recy- cled bottles. With Reviro our endeavour is to contribute to the new worlds efforts through Reducing, Reusing and Recy- cling.
- 59. 59 TVC |APRIL 2022 What are your future goals to increase pro- ductivity? In 2020 we doubled our cotton yarn capacity which is in full production now. While in 2021 we increased our manufacturing capacity in Yarns for technical textiles. In the coming years we hope to grow in a similar fash- ion. Recycling Fiber is the new trend in textile, what is the growth you can see in this indus- try? With growing environmental concerns and awareness, recycling waste in useful textile products is the need of the hour. The demand for sustainable textile is increas- ing every day from our customers and brands. At Sanathan Textiles have started our range of recycled yarns made from waste recycled bottles by convert- ing them to PET chips. Our range of recycled yarns are marketed under our brand name Sanathan Reviro. This range of recycled yarn products are available as textur- ised yarns, fully drawn yarns and also come with the required GRS certification. The demand for these yarns are going to grow at a faster pace in the coming years because of customer awareness and requirements. Vipul Organics Limited, the BSE listed (VIPULORG / 530627) leading Specialty Chemicals company in the pigments and dyes segment, has announced that they have successfully received the OEKO-TEX Certification for their pigment products under the brand name Sun- Print for the textile industry. Vipul Organics joins a handful of companies globally in the pigments sector, to have received the ECO PASS- PORT. This will open up opportunities for Vipul Organ- ics to work with those global textiles and garments companies which are committed to upholding a sus- tainable ecosystem. VipulOrganics Receives OEKO-TEX certification “We are happy that our pigment products are now cer- tified to be environmentally friendly. This human-eco- logical perspective is something that Vipul Organics has always focused on and now our clients can see the transparent proof of that with the ECO PASSPORT’, says Mr. Mihir V Shah, Executive Director, Vipul Organ- ics Limited. “The testing and certification process on which this Certificate is issued guarantees maximum consumer safety. The certification will also help us broaden our client base and target multinational com- panies that focus on safety and sustainability”, he adds. The ECO PASSPORT by OEKO TEX is a definitive inde- pendent certification system that is especially de- signed for manufacturers of process chemicals and chemical compounds. The ECO PASSPORT certifies the safety and sustainability of the entire value chain of manufacturing textiles. During a multistep process, OEKO-TEX analyses whether each individual ingredient in the chemical product meets the statutory require- ments and that it is not harmful to human health. Both brands and manufacturers value the ECO PASSPORT as credible proof of sustainable textile and leather pro- duction. Once per year, OEKO-TEX updates the banned substances and limit values and expands them to in- clude new scientific findings or statutory requirements. Vipul Organics has always believed in offering the high- est level of safety to its customers and today, its new factory at Tarapur is Zero Liquid Discharge (ZLD) unit. This involves a significant commitment of resources and Vipul Organics is focused on creating an environ- mentally friendly product line. With this credential, Vipul Organics now has significant advantage and op- portunity to work with Global multinationals which re- quire this certification from all its vendors. Vipul Organics Limited is a BSE Listed (VIPULORG / 530627) leading Specialty Chemicals company in the Pigments and Dyes segment. Today, it is amongst the foremost manufacturers of Pigments, Dyestuff, Lake Colours and Pigment Intermediaries / Fast Salts in the country. It has 6 manufacturing facilities spread across Maharashtra and has global footprint in over 50 coun- tries. Vipul Organics ended the financial year 2020- 2021 with revenues of Rs.120 crore, marking a robust 28% + growth over the previous financial year.
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- 61. 61 TVC |APRIL 2022 GUJARAT TURNING INTO VIBRANT HUB OF TEXTILES: ANIL RAJVANSHI TVC Editorial Team As SRTEPC has been organising buyer-seller meetings for many years, then what is the purpose for which you have kept buyer-seller meeting only in Surat? As the flagship event of SRTEPC, it started from Su- rat only in 2016, and in 2018 it was organised in Surat only. In 2019 we organized it in Bombay. As a result of COVID-19 in 2020 and 2021, we were unable to host buyer-seller meet in 2022. In Bombay there was a jum- bo ground center, so we thought that would organise there but now it has become a center for COVID-19 pa- tients, so we are looking forward to bring our signature event back to Surat. Now we are determined to do that on an annual basis which will be known as Brand Surat. Because, for man-made fibre, man-made textile indus- try has a big role. Around 40 million meters of cloth is manufactured per day in India with Surat as the biggest centre, and around 7 lakh people are located in Surat, out of the 20-lakh people working. Surat is the biggest hub, but why the interna- tional buyer-seller meetings you are not or- ganised in Mumbai, which is the main hub? The material which is manufactured in Surat is in dyed, embroidered or in printed forms and some of the quantity goes to pan-India and some to Bombay from where it is exported. Since 40% is made in Surat, all MMFs made in India will be consumed. Materials made in Surat by engraving, embroidery and printing are distributed throughout India and a certain amount is exported to Bombay. Most of the production is done in Surat, which is a little faster than Bombay, but for manufacturing and cost reasons it is common to make brands in Surat. Light chiffon quality is available in many qualities. The quantity of chiffon is not produced in any country in the world except in India because the quality is not produced at the same cost as done here. Therefore, we believe that all of this needs to be further encouraged. Why cannot we increase synthetic man-made fibres, so that people buy more MMF products and so that manufacturing activity is increased, and that exports can also be increased. Second thing is that the entire production of man-made fibre plants is located in Gu- jarat. When all the biggest man-made fibre production and Mr Anil Rajvanshi, Senior Executive Vice President Head Corporate Industry Affairs of Reliance Industries Ltd. (RIL) is the Chairman of The Synthetic Rayon Textiles Export Promotion Council (SRTEPC). Mr. Ra- jvanshi is also a member of the National Committee of Textiles of Con- federation of Indian Industry (CII) and Federation of Indian Chamber of Commerce Industry (FICCI). He is also associated with the Textiles Committee and represents Reliance Industries Limited at The Synthetic Art Silk Mills Research Association (SASMIRA). Mr Rajvanshi spoke to the Editor of the Textile Value Chain in an exclu- sive interview. Excerpts: Interview—Anil Rajvanshi
- 62. 62 TVC |APRIL 2022 Bio-Inspired Textiles Pro- mote Sustainable Fashion nylon are centred in Gujarat, obviously it will be main hub of man-made textile. In time to come Gujarat will be one of the most vibrant hubs of textiles in the whole of India and will be an appropriate place to be hub of textiles manufacturing. If you see globally, share of man -made textile is 72% and of cotton is just 24%. In China it is 35%. We produce 5 million tons of polyester per day, including fibres and yarns. China produces 55 million tons. If there is a proper investment and rein- vestment environment created by the Government, then the man- made fibre industry will outgrow any other fibre in the country. I think still nylon and acrylics are coming from China No it is not like that. See, as 90% of acrelic consumed in India is made by Yardman??, Indian Acrylic and Pa- supati Affilon within India. 85% of nylon is produced in India, polyester 65-70% is consumed and produced in India so, and that is why I am telling you that Man- made fibre is not growing in field like cotton. You have to create a downstream value which has to begin from petrochemical. So, first you have to create PTA, etc to produce polyester. Today our availability is 5-6 million tons for man-made industry, and if it is to be doubled then we need an investment of Rs 45000 crore. So, you have to create a climate to invest. Today what is lacking is the confidence and we have to think loud, have inclusive thinking. Recently, the government has launched the PLI Scheme. What is your opinion? It is not a well-defined scheme. Today if you see the financial cost, it will go large scale, i.e. the investment cost will go to Rs. 300 crore and will come above 8%. So for that you have to create a market, and more in- centives are needed. While variety is one of the essential signs of deals ac- complishment inside the style business, it’s likewise one of the world’s biggest wellsprings of water con- tamination. Truth be told, material plants frequently dump leftover colors and unsafe synthetic compounds into trenches, streams and waterways. At NC State, specialists from the College of Natural Resources and the Wilson College of Textiles have fostered a cycle that could some time or another tackle this issue — and it includes the utilization of nanoscopic particles extricated from wood. “Material plants use colors and other hue specialists that are extremely harmful,” said Nathalie Lavoine, an associate teacher in the Depart- ment of Forest Biomaterials. “Utilizing nanocellulose is a way forward to economical handling.” Nanocellulose is a normally happening substance separated from cellulose — the primary substance of a plant’s cell dividers. It’s separated into two sorts: nanocrystals and nanofibrils, the two of which are bio- degradable and non-harmful. The previous is addition- ally more grounded than steel. With subsidizing from the Research Opportunity Seed Fund Program at the Wilson College of Textiles, Lavoine and her teammates have fostered a cycle that permits them to utilize nanocellulose to deliver dressing things with luminous highlights looking like the rainbow-toned gleam seen on fish scales, bird quills and bug bodies. “Specialists have known how to make brilliant movies with these nanoparticles,” Lavoine said. “Yet, as of recently, it was absolutely impossible to apply these particles to ma- terials.” The scientists remove cellulose from wood chips and the mash utilized in papermaking and join it with wa- ter, treating the subsequent blend with corrosive to reveal nanocrystals. They then cleanse the combina- tion to eliminate undesired parts. When the cleaning system is finished, the analysts add the combination to outlines so it can cement into plastic-like movies. Then, at that point, utilizing a PC supported plan table, they cut the movies into shapes and examples that can be imprinted onto clothing things. Lavoine said the utiliza- tion of nanocellulose in materials guarantees the main- tainable utilization of regular assets, opening a way for novel purposes of both poor quality wood and conven- tional lumber sources. It could likewise decrease color contamination from the style business.
- 63. 63 TVC |APRIL 2022 VI SIO N Di ve r se pro duc t k no wl ed ge T ech ni c all y q ua lif ie d c omp e te nt team to se rv ice the cus tomer need s Or ga ni z atio nal stre ng th back- up t o ex ec u te la rge instit utional or de r s Pr od uc t deve lop ment Sa mpling a r e un d e rt aken co m me rcia lly +91 230 243 8538 office@kenindia.in Q UA LI TY POLICY Understanding of Customer needs ability to service institutional customers to apparels Fabric Design Development capability Diverse manufactur ing capability Ability to deliver commitment to excellence To be the supplier of first choice for our customers working in close association with them offering complete Fabric Apparels related solutions from design to delivery. KEN endeavors to create value for its customers by setting benchmarks in cost competitiveness, quality parameters and turnaround time. This is to be achieved by a continuous process of product innovation, enhancement of personnel skills and optimum utilization of technology. WHY KEN... Organ ization with 800 Members Team 9/621, Industrial Estate, Ichalkaranji- 416115, Maharashtra, INDIA. CORPORATE OFFICE
- 64. 64 TVC |APRIL 2022 “WE BRING FRESH FUSION THEMES EVERY 2 WEEKS” TVC Editorial Team AKS Clothings, a start-up Indian ethnic brand was founded by Ms. Nidhi Yadav, a young, energetic inspirational designer entrepreneur. She started AKS when she was 25 in a small warehouse of less than a thousand units and today, AKS head- quarter is located in the Millennium City of India, Gurugram, and has an integrated network of printing, dyeing, stitching, and manufacturing units in the Pink City, Jaipur. When Nidhi launched AKS, she ensured launching 15-20 new styles every two weeks. Today it has about 150 new styles ev- ery month, and a customer repeat rate of 35 per cent. AKS provides contemporary ethnic wear at an affordable price for women, Kids Men’s. Today, the brand is available on Nyka fashion,Ajio, Jabong, Flipkart, and AKS’s own website. The com- pany also ships products across India, Singapore, and Malaysia. It also has a couple of offline stores in Nagaland. Nidhi Yadav spoke with the Textile Value Chain in an exclusive interview. Excerpts: You have built AKS Clothings from a scratch. Tell us about the early years of growth. The stories behind clothing labels have always aroused my attention. So, while studying fashion design in Italy, I looked at the business models of several well-known fashion firms. Inspired by their success, I decided to emulate it in AKS, a Yuvdhi Apparels company, in May 2014 with a bit of seed capital of Rs.3.5 lakh. AKS began in a modest warehouse with only a few thousand units. The only purpose was to inject comfort into the every- day needs of a new generation of women by bringing fresh fusion themes to the ethnic wear industry. The process of constant expansion and implementing the newest business practices to serve clients contin- ues, thanks to our highly skilled management team. We’ve grown to a turnover of Rs.200 crore and pres- ently serve over a lakh consumers every month with- out any outside funding. We want to raise Rs.500 crore shortly. When did the company really take off? Give us details of its growth. Aks is steadily flourishing; it has skyrocketed since we increased our apparel ranges. It’s also because we’ve Interview—AKS Founder
- 65. 65 TVC |APRIL 2022 made ourselves available across all digital channels. Because our brand is exclusively available digitally, ac- cessibility across numerous devices was a must for us to reach a wider audience. In terms of industry growth, we’ve expanded by five per cent. What is your brand building strategy? At AKS, we strive to provide fashion that is appro- priate for the fast-changing times while maintaining high-quality standards and affordable prices. Since its beginning, the company has advocated for women’s empowerment and has already established a specific section for women to help them find better jobs. More than half of the outsourced businesses that work with AKS are either created or headed by women. How did you manage the tough times of Covid in the last two years? During the initial lockdown, there were several diffi- culties. However, we were able to keep our daily wage workers engaged by providing them with consistent employment. During the first lockdown, we created PPE kits and masks. It assisted us in keeping the manu- facturing process running during the pandemic. We re- called our personnel in staggered shifts even after the lockout during the unlocking phases to preserve social distance standards. We had all of our resources accessible for work during the second shutdown, which helped us retain. The textiles and raw materials, on the other hand, were a hurdle. As a result, we came up with the concept of upcycling our waste textiles into children’s clothes. This collection was always on our minds back then, but it wasn’t a top priority for us. The second lockdown, on the other hand, provided us with a boost since we needed to engage personnel. As a result, we began working on the children’s collection on June 1st and completed it in just one month. It was, as expected, difficult, but we’re delighted we did it since it turned out to be a big success. The covid-19 pandemic has had a significant impact on consumer behaviour. They now place a greater em- phasis on internet enterprises, and they believe that some platforms and brands provide real, high-quality, and cost-effective items. Because demand was grow- ing and output was slowing, the key issue for us was to increase product production. It was difficult to boost output while preserving social distance at work. So, to address this issue, we increased our supplier base, which aided us in combating the problem. What are your achievements in domestic and export markets? The process of selecting a raw material supplier is not difficult, but it is also not straightforward. To be hon- est, it’s a lengthy and time-consuming procedure. Ini- tially, we sourced our raw materials from Jaipur, Maha- rashtra, and small areas of Surat, Odisha, and Banaras; however, we have now expanded our raw material sourcing to include more States. From the beginning till now, we at AKS Clothing have been delivering our products throughout India. How do you see the next few years? What are the plans for expansion diversification? In near future, we aspire to become one of the top- most leading E-commerce platforms in the entire coun- try. This time, we’ll concentrate on our direct-to-con- sumer (D2C) and franchise models. Apart from that, for our Maternity and Nursing line, we recently part- nered with Neha Dhupia. We aimed to be the market leader in ethnic women’s apparel, and the entire team of AKS is working around the clock to achieve this goal. Our major objective in this regard is to increase market penetration through MBOs and e-portals, and we ex- pect some pretty fantastic outcomes. We’re planning to bring more celebrity collections in the future. Initially, Aks focused on women’s fashion la- bels, but we are now expanding to include products for all members of the family. In terms of future goals, we want to make AKS a comprehensive women’s appar- el brand in modern trends, and to make that a reality, we’ll use MBOs and Franchisees to expand the brand’s market penetration. In-house manufacturing is also a high priority for us in the future. In five years, I hope to see AKS among India’s top ten garment brands. We’ll go further into the country’s most popular e-com- merce platform. This time, we’ll be concentrating on
- 66. 66 TVC |APRIL 2022 B2C as well as the franchise model. Aside from that, we’re working on a unique collection in collaboration with celebrities. Celebrity-inspired collections are also in the pipeline. At AKS, we strive to provide fashion that is appro- priate for the fast-changing times while maintaining high-quality standards and at affordable prices. Since its establishment, the company has advocated for women’s empowerment, and has already established a specific section for women to help them find better jobs. More than half of the outsourced businesses that work with AKS are either created or headed by wom- en. Ethnic wear: How do you rate its growth in In- dia abroad? The Indian ethnic wear sector is one such industry that has seen significant progress in recent years. The level of accomplishment that this sector has attained is re- markable. Even now, it’s flourishing like crazy. People’s lifestyles in India have altered dramatically in recent years and continue to do so. In tandem with this, the Indian ethnic wear business is introducing a slew of improvements to the design patterns and styles of various ethnic wear. Even if ur- banisation and globalisation have brought about a lot of change in today’s wearing style, ethnic wears con- tinue to be in high demand. The explanation for this is simple: in India, most women adhere to traditional beliefs, which is why they favour ethnic clothing. Indi- an ethnicity is highly distinct, and in today’s world, not only Indians but others from all over the world value it. What are your messages for new entrepre- neurs, industry and the government? The most important motivation is to continually chal- lenge yourself in order to attain your objectives. Run- ning a business requires a lot of time, but the only way to be happy in life is to pursue work that you truly care about. Please don’t be afraid of failing since we never know what will happen unless we try. Believe in your ability to achieve, and you’ll find a method to overcome challenges. Keep in mind, my entrepreneur friends, that most overnight triumphs take a long time to achieve, so don’t be scared to put work into your business. In the future, sustainability will be a big trend in the fashion business. Consumers are growing more sen- sitive to Mother Nature, which has pushed firms to implement environmentally responsible practices. While worldwide designers and retailers have begun to choose the sustainable way, I propose and recommend that my other industry companions follow suit. Also, the government should surely aim to implement some efforts that the sector should take to stay on the sustainable path and guarantee that there is no waste at the end of the lifecycle by allowing shipping expens- es to be compensated with carbon credits. Countries importing textile goods from Sri Lanka have now started shifting their orders to Indian exporters as Sri Lanka continues is suffering one of the worst economic crisis, said the Ministry of Tex- tile official recently. UP Singh, Secretary, Ministry of Textile said, “Some countries who were earlier importing from Sri Lanka, have started contacting India, as Sri Lanka is under its worst economic crises. Some orders have already been given to companies in the Tirupur district of Tamil Nadu. Tirupur is the hub of the textile industry in Tamil Nadu.” Singh said that last year’s textile sector export was around US$43 billion and this year the target has been set for US$100 billion. India is currently producing more than 340 lakh bales of cotton, but consumption is going to be more than production due to the order diversion from Sri Lanka due to the crisis. Meanwhile,ASakthivel,President,FederationofIndian Exporters Organisation said, “Buyers are now started making queries with Tirupur Exporters Association and other places in India because the situation in Sri Lanka is bad. Some queries may turn into orders. This is an opportunity. Good talks are happening and we expect some orders to divert from Sri Lanka to India.” He said Indian exporters are getting queries from countries like the United Kingdom and European Union Countries. Lankan crisis benefits Indian textile exporters
- 67. 67 TVC |APRIL 2022 “DYNAMIC SHIFT IN TEXTILE INDUSTRY WITH FOCUS ON SELF-RELIANCE” An Interview of an Educationist / Research Consultant with TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN MEDIA. Dr. Suman Mundkur is an Academician with 29 years’ experience and a Research Consultant, Academic Research consultancy Ser- vices. She is a Visiting Faculty, Department of Fibres and Textile Processing, Institute of Chemical Technology ICT Mumbai. She holds Honorary positions as General Secretary, Home Science As- sociation of India, and Hon. Trustee, Board of Trustees, Society of Dyers and Colourists Education Charity. An Ambassador and Mentor, Researcher.Life, CACTUS Life Sciences and an Author- preneur, Author Freedom Hub Society. https://authordrsuman- mundkur.com/ Share your Education and Professional Journey After graduating with a B.Sc (Home) Specialization in Clothing and Textiles, I went on to do an M.Sc (Home Science) Specialization in Textile Chemistry, from the University of Mumbai. To qualify for teaching in Col- lege, I equipped myself with a Diploma in Higher Ed- ucation and later cleared the National Eligibility Test conducted by UGC. My professional journey started in 1991. After eight years of teaching in Junior College, I joined the Sir Vithaldas Thackersey College of Home Science, SNDT Women’s University, in 1999. Teaching at the under- graduate level gave me ample opportunities to be actively involved in activities like resume building, grooming, preparing them for interviews, writing and publishing articles. Upgrading educational qualifica- tions were necessary for career advancement. Each time I upgraded myself with a course, I got to teach new subjects. I took an Advanced Course in Textile De- signing, a Certificate Course in Computer-Aided Textile Designing, and a Diploma in International Trade Man- agement. Taking up responsibilities in the College helped sharp- en interpersonal, communication, and organization- al skills. I undertook a UGC Minor Research Project. I got the opportunity to present a research paper at the International Conference XXII World Congress of International Federation of Home Economics at Mel- bourne, Australia. Two other papers at Istanbul, Turkey and Brunei. As a preparatory course for a Ph.D., I completed a Cer- tificate Course in Advanced Research Methodology from Mumbai University in 2012. Soon after, I regis- tered for Ph.D. (Home Science) from the Department of Textiles and Fashion Technology, College of Home Science, Nirmala Niketan, affiliated with the University of Mumbai, completed in August 2016. I retired as Associate Professor in April 2020 after 29 Interview-Dr. Suman Mundkur
- 68. 68 TVC |APRIL 2022 years of experience teaching and research. The lock- down allowed knowledge up-gradation. I did a few Certificate courses in Advanced Research Methodolo- gy, EXCEL, and Material Science organized by REST So- ciety for Research International in 2020. The Indian Patent awarded in March 2022 for part of Ph.D. research under Dr. Ela Dedhia has been my latest recognition. Being an educationist, what has been your jour- ney in life and interactions with the industry? Being an educationist, I have interacted with several professionals from the textile industry at seminars and conferences throughout my years of teaching. This has helped me stay updated on the latest developments in the field. During the lockdown, webinar attendance increased three-fold compared to the physical. As a requirement for a B.Sc in Textiles and Apparel De- signing, the students must undergo an internship of six weeks. The internship often led to them being placed at the organization. As a mentor, I visited the organiza- tions and interacted with the employers for feedback on students’ performance. Many of the interactions with Buying Agencies, Manufacturers, Export Houses have fruitfully led to placements of graduate students. Similar long and close association with the Society of Dyers and Colourists Education Charity, which helped bring together on a platform, experts from various fields like textiles, Dyes and Chemicals, Polymers, Coat- ing, Digital printing, and the faculty and students of various Institutes. Organizing Panel discussions, Sem- inars, and Research and Design competitions annually, among students both at undergraduate and postgrad- uate levels, allowed interaction with the Jury members and academicians. Interactions with Scientists and Researchers at Wool Research Association, BTRA, SASMIRA during my re- search and my mentee’s, field visits with students have been enriching. I have interacted with the Scientists at ICAR CIRCOT during the Meetings of Governing Body of the Indian Fibre Society and knowledge sharing Semi- nars. My long association as a patron member with the Tex- tile Association of India helped me participate in many of the Seminars they regularly organize. Interaction with several Industry professionals, consultants, and manufacturers when visiting Exhibitions like the Na- tional Garment Fair organized by Clothing Manufactur- ers Association CMAI and HGH Home Fashion, where my students volunteered. What difference do you find with the Education System in India and Overseas? The new education policy NEP 2020 is expected to change the Indian education system. A transformation in the system and a mindset shift cannot be expected too soon. The syllabus in Indian education has been highly structured. Some academic freedom was given to Autonomous Colleges. The faculty could use creativ- ity in delivering information, teaching methodology, and technology. Opportunities Abroad, there is no concept of reservations/quota or discrimination based on any protected category, whereas the caste system is apparent in India. Good teachers are not attracted to the temporary teaching positions in Higher Education due to government pol- icies. Flexibility Indian students are expected to choose a stream ear- ly, often making it difficult to change without losing a year. In the US, the students at the undergraduate level for four years take a wide range of subjects that allows them to switch streams with ease and maturi- ty. High School students can choose how difficult they want high school to be. There is greater flexibility, for example, AP courses in the Advanced Placement Pro- gram, motivated high school students are allowed to take University-level studies while still in High School if they want. Practical experiences and All-round development Indian students start attending coaching classes and tuitions with too much emphasis on academic scores.
- 69. 69 TVC |APRIL 2022 Less time and effort are spent on extra-curricular activ- ities, improving general reading and knowledge, and sports. There is almost no time left for any community work and overall development. Unlike in the US, where a wide array of courses promote extra-curricular activ- ities. For instance, a student can take up foreign lan- guages , music, dancing, painting, etc. at the under- grad level. In developed nations, young adults often take up part- time jobs alongside their academics. They gain enough life experiences by the time they complete the Univer- sity degree. This helps enhance practical knowledge and overall development that gives them an edge at the job. They can better relate education to their expe- riences. The emphasis for students is not on memoriz- ing but on how and where to find information. There is more stress on the practical application of the theo- retical concepts. Collaboration between Academia and Industry Specific collaborations between the industry and uni- versities, such as a robotics company in the US setting up a specialized degree program with a university lab- oratory, make graduates learn topics more directly ap- plicable to jobs than the traditional breadth courses. Funding The external funding from Industries, Investors, and Alumni allows Universities to attract the best profes- sional talent. It also provides them with the resources needed to sustain research projects. These could be some of the main reasons for students seeking educa- tion abroad and the US in particular. Critical thinking The most significant difference is in the importance of independent thinking and problem-solving. The solv- ing process can give rise to innumerable questions. Students who have gone abroad to study, mainly Eu- ropean Universities, have expressed that the students are treated like peers at the university level. Students can freely have conversations with their faculty, ask questions and discuss. They feel that Indian education is hierarchical. The ability to question, think critically, analyze and communicate is critical in research. The Research Scholar and Guide relationship are crucial for a positive research environment. As a Mentor, what are the qualities capabilities that Ph.D. aspirants and scholars must possess? A Ph.D. aspirant must have the desire to do research. The critical ingredient is curiosity, the ability to ask questions and seek answers. I have explained this in my first book, ‘Zeroing In On A Research Topic’: A Guide for first-time researchers available on Amazon. The book gives the resources and strategies for select- ing and narrowing down a research topic. Nurturing a Researcher Mindset becomes essential in the research process. Ph.D. scholars must practice Self-Discipline to be consistent in research efforts. Another essential quality that will help them through their PhD is time management. Inaddition,theability tosearch,absorbandshareideas from various sources, the ability to handle anxiety and stress, and the ability to think clearly are important qualities that make a great researcher. Comprehen- sion can be developed as the reading on a topic of in- terest increases. Take notes as you read, summarize, define research questions, make mind-maps, identify gaps and research problems, and make a comprehen- sive research plan in the proposal. So along with curi- osity, creativity, comprehension, and clarity are equally crucial for any Ph.D. scholar. Lastly, sustained interest and self-motivation will keep the scholar in top gear. As Faculty, what difference do you find between Indian research scholars and overseas scholars? My interactions with International Research Scholars have been in the recent eight months, through the Researcher.Life Ambassador program. I find research- ers abroad more communicative and open with their thoughts and ideas, while Indian Researchers are hesi- tant to discuss on an international platform. I know several of my acquaintances and my ex-stu- dents who have taken up higher education abroad. In
- 70. 70 TVC |APRIL 2022 the initial months, they find it hard, as they have been habituated to rote learning and not been trained to think independently. In India, they have always been told to do a specific task in a certain way. Sometimes provided with readymade handouts, guidelines, and procedures. Being expected to think, analyze, do tasks independently critically can be overwhelming. As a visiting faculty for M.Tech and some Ph.D. Re- search Scholars attending, some have years of work experience. I see such brilliant individuals. Each with a great potential for research and professional growth. If students and researchers ask more questions, learning can be more effective. How has the textile and apparel industry evolved in the last few years? In my forty years in Mumbai, I have seen the shift of the Textile industry from manufacturing to retail. Stu- dents visited spinning and weaving mills and some composite mills until the late 90s. The manufacturing sector is fragmented, and jobs are outsourced. Large Mill land has been sold to develop Malls and residen- tial towers. The textile and fashion students get to see the different retail formats, in apparel and home tex- tiles but they do not get to see process from fiber to fabric, manufacture to packaging. What are the latest trends in the textile and ap- parel industry? There is a dynamic shift taking place in the textile in- dustry, focusing on self-reliance. We have seen how several apparel manufacturers shifted to production of protective clothing at short notice, during the pan- demic. Textiles being closely related to the polymer and chemical industries, how the raw materials will be sourced, the procurement of dyes, chemical auxil- iaries, how energy is utilized and conserved, and how workers and employees are recruited, trained, select- ed, and treated will change. The shift from a linear economy to a recycling economy seemed slow in acceptance. Circularity in production will be a challenge for any production cycle. But the effort towards a circular economy will drive alternative production cycles of upcycled and downcycled prod- ucts. Consumers with increasing awareness on sustain- ability may also be more accepting of these products. It is only in 2019 through some of the Apparel Brands that Project SU.RE got a commitment to contribute to the UN Sustainable Development Goals 2030, especial- ly SDG12, for responsible consumption and production. The Government has now approved 31 projects under the National Technical Textiles Mission. Setting up the seven Mega Textile Parks and promoting the textile sector will transform the industry. The trend is to im- prove quality standards towards Innovation and create an eco-system for start-ups. Research from Educational Institutions is hardly applied in commercial production. What is the reason? How can we integrate industry with edu- cation to get maximum productivity of research? The Indian Universities and Educational Institutions will need to display their research capabilities strongly. It is the infrastructural facilities and incubation centers and through quality research projects, publications, and In- novation. Research aspirants are keen to do something different, innovate, start-up business, get patents. With young India population, there is immense possibilities. There is no shortage of ideas and human resources. In- stitutions can divert a lot of time and effort spent doc- umenting for institutional rating and accreditation to research. It is a vicious cycle. Highly rated institutions find it easier to get funded projects. On the other hand, the industries need to look beyond ratings and rankings, have confidence in academic In- stitutions. The Alumni who are well placed in the in- dustry can play a significant role in facilitating collabo- ration to get maximum productivity from research. The much-needed Academia and Industry partnerships will need a boost. So, will investment in Innovation and re- search gain more importance than ever before. Sustainability, Carbon footprint, Waste manage- ment how is it relevant and important? Is it just a talk of the town or any fruitful measures taken
- 71. 71 TVC |APRIL 2022 by industry? When I started research on waste management in 2011, not much importance was given to textile waste. Citing reasons that recycling is expensive, recycled fi- bers are of poor quality; it is not worth the effort; I was discouraged from research on managing clothing waste for Ph.D. ‘Sourcing, reuse, and recycling for tech- nical textile products’ was my Ph.D. topic. One of the products, a packaging sheet, has been awarded a Pat- ent this month. The product has been certified by the National Biodiversity Association. In the last decade, there has been a drastic shift in attitude at all levels. The research output in terms of Journal articles and thesis on sustainable sourcing, production, processing, conservation, redesign, efflu- ent treatment, green production, eco-friendly, envi- ronmentally friendly, energy-saving, green chemistry, effluent treatment, optimization, automation, shorting supply chains, and more. Sustainability has been talked about at every National and Global forum. The theme of every Conference is linked to the UN SDGs in some or the other way. Being a Reviewer, National and International Journals The review process has been an enriching experience, with various subjects to read and review. When the pa- pers are well structured, it is easier to concentrate on reviewing the content. The paper may be good to pub- lish as it is, or it may need minor revisions and, lastly, may not be suitable for publishing. Some Journals do not have the system of desk rejection, and a reviewer lands up with many papers to sift. Papers with shallow content or content with good ideas but not presented well, language. It is important to identify certain as- pects for better clarity, and ambiguity in statements. Early researchers sometimes write something, when they intend to mean something else. My blog on proof- reading elaborates these points. The experience of being a reviewer gives comprehen- sive experience. It is interesting to read how research- ers approach a topic and its methodology. Research- ers are increasingly using the mixed methodology. The trend has been to take a multi-disciplinary approach to research. The critical analysis of data allows judging the depth of the subject dealt with. How the researcher has evaluated and thought through the subject, even if it has no empirical data, as in a review paper. Beyond a plagiarism check, researchers also need to pay atten- tion to other ethical issues in research and publishing. It is expected of the reviewer to think profoundly and offer suggestions to the authors for further refining the paper for publication. Having spent over three decades teaching-learning and evaluation, offering feedback comes naturally. This can be a very meaningful and ex- citing part of reviewing research papers. How has the transition been from being an Edu- cationist to a Research Consultant? Research Consultancy has given me an opportunity to interact with researchers from various disciplines other than textiles and fashion. My start-up as an on- line research coach started with the lockdown. I am on a mission to empower people to research. Help them prepare research projects and publish papers. Researchers seek help in selecting a topic, identifying gaps, and research questions from a review of the lit- erature. Help is sought on how to formulate objectives and choose a suitable methodology. Preparing a re- search proposal and preparing for admission to a Ph.D. program. So as a Research Consultant, it has been an enriching experience with a learning curve. In support of researchers, as a Researcher.Life Am- bassador from India, it has been possible to have con- ducted a panel discussion on ethical guidelines for re- searchers. Two Facebook Live sessions on publishing a review paper and Developing an Effective Research Proposal. As part of the R Voice mentorship program, I have been mentoring proposal writing and enhancing professional profiles. Life after retirement has put me in a lifelong learning mode. Over three decades in Academics has given me confidence in the second innings. With so many op- portunities opening up, there is so much to know and grow!
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- 73. 73 TVC |APRIL 2022 US$65 billion scope in textile exports TVC Editorial Team M AG has supplied and installed recently its ful- ly automatic cotton trash testing instrument “AccuTrash” at Bremen Institute, Germany for the ICA Bremen, the Global Centre for Cotton Test- ing Research and Bremen Cotton Exchange (BCE). International Cotton Association (ICA), Bremen in as- sociation with Bremen Cotton Exchange (BCE) and Bre- men Fibre Institute has set up center of excellence for the following related to cotton testing worldwide. • International Laboratory Certification • Round Trials • Cotton Grade Standards • Research and Development on Cotton Testing • Quality Expert Certification • Cotton Quality Information Consultancy The institute will utilises MAG Solvics’ AccuTrash – Ful- ly automatic trash separator not only for their research purpose related to test the real trash content in cotton, but also for testing samples received from their clients. Hence it is the recognition for MAG and AccuTrash in cotton fibre testing field worldwide. The features of AccuTrash are as follows, • Provision to test Trash, Lint, Dust Micro dust sep- arately. • Automatic weighing of Trash for Accurate results. • Sample size up to 100 grams. • Windows based user-friendly software for reports. • Provision to connect with MAG High Volume Fi- breTesting. I ndian textile exports can hit US$65 billion if indus- try majors take the right steps and there is proper execution of government schemes, a joint report by global consulting firm Kearney and The Confederation of Indian Industry (CII) said. Exports declined by 3 per cent during 2015–2019 and by 18.7 percent in 2020, the report observed and went on to add that during the same period, other low-cost countries such as Ban- gladesh and Vietnam have gained share. “We believe with the right actions from the industry majors and robust execution of government schemes, India can hit $65 billion in exports (implying 9-10% CAGR) by 2026. This, coupled with growth in domes- tic consumption, could propel domestic production to reach $160 billion. Given the labour-intensive nature of this industry, this growth could add 7.5 million direct jobs in textile manufacturing, Kearney said in a state- ment. The report said a variety of factors have contributed to India’s recent trade performance. India has factor cost disadvantages (example, power costs 30 to 40 percent more in India than it does in Bangladesh). Lack of free or preferential trade agreements with key importers, such as the European Union, United Kingdom, and Canada for apparel as well as Bangladesh for fabrics also puts pricing pressure on exporters. “The high cost of capital and high reliance on imports for almost all textiles machinery makes it difficult to earn the right return on invested capital, especially giv- en India’s slight cost disadvantage. Longer lead times than for Chinese manufacturers make India uncompet- itive, especially in the fashion segment. For example, India’s lead time is 15 to 25 percent longer than the competition in fabrics. Limited presence in the global trade of man-made fibre products. ACCUTRASH IN BREMEN INSTITUTE TVC Editorial Team Corporate News
- 74. 74 TVC |APRIL 2022 32 TVC | MARCH 2022 47 TVC | Jan 2022 47 TVC | Jan 2022
- 75. 75 TVC |APRIL 2022 Catering for diversity – Monforts at Techtextil North America TVC Editorial Team M onforts will highlight its advanced finishing and coating technologies for the production of technical textiles at Techtextil North Amer- ica, which takes place at the Georgia World Congress Center in Atlanta from May 17-19. The company and its US representative PSP Marketing, of Charlotte, North Carolina, will be part of the centrepiece VDMA German Pavilion at the show (Stand 1936 in Hall B3). European-built Montex stenters have earned their leading position on the market for fabric finishing due to their robustness, reliability and economy. Existing technical textiles customers include manufacturers in the fields of home textiles, geotextiles, automotive fab- rics, as well as functional materials. Dedicated Montex lines have also been supplied to producers of airbags, flame retardant barrier fabrics and spacer fabrics, as well as high-temperature filter materials. “Technical textiles are extremely diverse in their end- use applications but the needs of the manufacturers of very different materials are still uniform in many re- spects,” says Monforts Managing Director Stefan Flöth. “Montex stenters provide maximum efficiency, the A wide width Monforts Montex line for the production of technical textiles. Corporate News
- 76. 76 TVC |APRIL 2022 ultimate in flexibility and the ability to switch quickly from one fabric formula to the next. Many of our cus- tomers need to operate 24 hours a day over seamless shift systems.” Energy prices With energy prices continuing to go through the roof, an emphasis at Techtextil North America will be on the energy and heat recovery that can be achieved with Montex stenters, through features such as the Mon- forClean system, in which waste heat from the drying process is used to pre-heat the drying air. This results in a radical reduction in the conventional heat supply required. A range of further resource-saving and ener- gy recovery options can be specified per individual line installation. Advanced machine operation With the highly intuitive Qualitex 800 visualization software, all article-specific settings can be stored and the formulations for thousands of treatment processes called up again at any time. Individual operators can also personalise their dashboards with the most im- portant machine functions and process parameters. “The easy to use HMI makes the operation of the line much simpler and cuts down the necessary training periods, while at the same time reducing the chance of human error,” observes PSP vice-president Alex Fran- co. The Qualitex 800 system is available for the automat- ic and continuous operation of the company’s Mon- tex stenters, as well as its Thermex continuous dyeing ranges, Monfortex shrinking systems and Montex®- Coat coating units. Versatility is the key Monforts Montex®Coat coating units serve an equally diverse number of markets, including tents, tarpaulins and awnings, black-out roller blinds and sail cloth, au- tomotive interior fabrics and medical disposables. Full PVC coatings, pigment dyeing or minimal application surface and low penetration treatments and solvent coatings (in explosion-proof conditions) with knife coating, roller coating or screen printing can all be ac- commodated with this system. “Technical textiles are a key pillar of our production programme and North America is one of our major markets, which makes Techtextil North America a very important show for us,” Flöth concludes. “We are look- ing forward to reconnecting with customers old and new at this always-vibrant show.” Monforts Montex®Coat coating units serve a diverse number of markets.
- 77. 77 TVC |APRIL 2022 launches new “WONDERFUL” trend collection TVC Editorial Team F lat knitting is one of the most versatile textile form- ing technologies. What is possible here is shown by STOLL’s regular trend collections. The latest compilation of inspiring designer pieces is entitled “WONDERFUL”. On display are wonder- ful products designed to make the viewer pause and marvel. “WONDERFUL” shows what it means to create wonderful knitted articles. In today’s world, moments of true wonder seem rare, but with the right technol- ogy, creative visions become products that inspire and amaze. With STOLL’s technological solutions, wonder- ful product ideas can be realized for everything that is important to us: our children, our home, our appear- ance and our well-being. Accordingly, the new trend collection serves differ- ent areas of application: Extraordinary STOLL-knit and wear® products in the new gauge of E 10.2 and in es- tablished gauges, such as E 7.2, inspire the market for seamless articles. Extravagant combinations of intarsia, STOLL-weave-in® and STOLL-ikat plating® techniques create novel pattern possibilities, material usages and colour impressions. The possibility of individualisation is supported by selected products via STOLL-autocre- ate®. The trend collection causes amazement, but also stands for responsibility and environmental aware- ness. One chapter presents a sustainable footwear fabric solution that was created in collaboration with renowned players in textile value creation. “WONDERFUL” was launched in March 2022. The first presentations took place in front of customers in Italy and were a great success. “Our “WONDERFUL” designs were very well received. Some customers have adopt- ed the new pattern options contained there directly into their current collection, and ordered the neces- sary technical kids to convert their machines,” explains Jörg Hartmann, Head of Fashion Technology at STOLL with satisfaction. Corporate News
- 78. 78 TVC |APRIL 2022 PRATIBHA SYNTEX’S GREENFIELD PROJECT FOR SUSTAINABLE TEXTILES TVC Editorial Team Opening new avenues for sustainable textile busi- ness, Pratibha Syntex Ltd ventures into world class greenfield project Pratibha Swaraj Pvt Ltd. To be developed on the principles of Industry 4.0, the project would redefine the paradigms of the garment industry of India. The first phase of the unparalleled factory would come into operations by August 22. The factory will manu- facture 100% sustainable sportwear to cater to the in- ternational brands like Patagonia, Prana and Columbia Sports. “We are investing in Ujjain as part of our commitment towards Make in India project. The investment is en- visioned to ensure minimum environment impact and maximum social impact,” said Shreyaskar Chaudhary, MD Pratibha Syntex Ltd. This plant will give employment to 4000 people and 80% of the total workforce will be women. To promote Corporate News
- 79. 79 TVC |APRIL 2022 nology. It would be fully digitised with delivering real time analytics. Most of the processes in the factory like warehouse, inventory management, material move- ment and production would be automated. To make the production efficient flawless, the facto- ry will use lean management principles. These princi- ples will lead to minimal wastage, reduced lead time, simpler distribution channels and overall performance optimisation. Sprawling in 15 acres of land, the plant would have a dense forest in one acres of land to offset carbon emission. A contract has been signed with an agency of Pune for the development of this green belt. The factory will come into operations by end of 2023. Pratibha Syntex Limited is a vertically integrated and sustainability oriented textile industry that has un- wavering commitment towards committed to envi- ronment, people and community. The unit located at Pithampur is functional since the year 1997 and today gives direct and indirect employment to a total of 6500 people. This unit enjoys patronage of around 25000 farmers and world class brands located in 20 countries. women empowerment, there will be more and more women participation in the staff. Presently Pratibha is providing employment to 6500 people. The greenfield plant is being developed adhering to sustainable development goals. The state-of-the -art infrastructure will have all the essential construction material as per the norms of Indian Green Building Council. Even after construction, environmental protection will be paramount; instead of chemical processes, empha- sis will be given on natural processes. Manure will be made from food waste. Sky lights will be installed to harness natural light. Electricity will be generated from roof top solar power plant installed at the factory. To ensure lowest water footprint, biological Sewage Treatment Plant(STP) Effluent Treatment Plant(ETP) will be installed. This will recycle the water which later would be used in washing and other operations. Innovative Operations like In-Line washing and finish- ing systems will be outfitted to make efficient use of water. There will be minimum use of fresh water. The factory will be incorporating cutting edge tech-
- 80. 80 TVC |APRIL 2022 F A R M T O F A S H I O N F A R M I N G G I N N I N G K N I T T I N G D Y E I N G A N D P R I N T I N G G A R M E N T I N G S P I N N I N G 1800 - 889 - 6020 info@omaxcotspin.com www.omaxcotspin.com Sr. No. 842,843,845/1, Near. Petrol Pump, Village Rajsitapur , Ta. Dhrangadhra Dist. Surendranagar. Gujarat. (INDIA).
- 81. 81 TVC |APRIL 2022 DATA-BASED YIELD IMPROVEMENT: USTER AUTOMATIC FABRIC INSPECTION LEADS THE WAY TO THE FUTURE TVC Editorial Team Uster Fabric Inspection solutions bring the added benefit of helping customers to prepare for a digital future. Today’s textile markets are highly competitive, throughout the entire value chain from fibre to fabric. Customers expect unique products, at the right quality and free from un- acceptable defects, every time. Fabric producers need to manufacture economically, with best-possible use of resources. The major challenges require comprehensive management strategies – and definitely automated fabric inspection. In the classic fabric production process, manual inspection and lab testing are time con- suming operations which need to be optimized with automated solutions. Adding auto- mation to the process will reduce production costs and satisfy customers by delivering 100% inspected fabrics. The advantages of data generated at automated fabric inspection bring the added benefit of helping customers to prepare for the future. The Uster EVS Fabriq Vision is an excellent example for proof. T he fabric quality assurance system Fabric producers need to guarantee reliable quality. This requires a consistently high rate of defect detection. Uster EVS Fabriq Vision ensures this is achieved by using automated control during inter- mediate and final inspection, removing the need for costly manual inspection. The system’s ability to cap- ture any visible defects allows fabric yield to be opti- mised and prevents claims. Real-time process monitoring detects, records and locates all defects in every roll of fabric. Fabriq Vision is able to capture any visible defect, at line running speeds. It can be used in a variety of positions on most manufacturers’ machines. Inspection is objective, ac- curate and consistent. The automatically generated defect map serves as the basis of improved fabric qual- ity which leads to maximum fabric yield for various ap- plications. The key to consistent quality is the optimised grading efficiency. Uster EVS Fabriq Vision provides real-time Corporate News
- 82. 82 TVC |APRIL 2022 alerts for operators, showing all defects and automati- cally creating roll inspection charts. All detected faults are collected in an album for review. Here the operator can quickly mark faults and select those which can be deleted. Users can set their own quality standards for different types of fabric and increase the efficiency of the grading process. Data is the key to a bright future Multiplespectroscopesinspectthematerialandunique algorithms identify all defects automatically, recording them in a dataset for each produced roll. The Album Software ensures optimum inspection efficiency and throughput. Classification using artificial intelligence will become available for more applications to speed up the reviewing process. Uster Fabric Inspection solu- tions bring the added benefit of helping customers to prepare for a digital future. Uster Fabriq Expert is the real-time quality analysis sys- tem providing fully-customisable quality analysis tools. Information on process and product quality, based on data from each fabric roll inspected with the Fabriq Vi- sion or another Uster fabric inspection system are well displayed on the PC screen. Uster Fabriq Expert helps managers and operators to optimise product and pro- cess quality, without the need for an additional quality reporting routine. Thanks to Fabriq Expert process-related quality prob- lems can be eliminated by immediate reactions and suitable corrective measures. Fabriq Expert provides real-time quality statistics, which can be used to iden- tify root causes and main problem areas. Customizable quality analysis tools such as pareto charts, histograms and pie charts make it very easy to recognise problem ’hot spots’ and take the right corrective actions. Yield – what finally counts After final inspection, fabric will often be cut into smaller rolls, which will then be delivered to various customers. Optimised cut control (OCC system) pro- vides a tool for automated cut optimisation, as well as additional components which can be installed on any existing debatching or cutting line. Upgraded process efficiency comes with clever soft- ware. The cut optimisation software automatically identifies the correct cutting position to achieve max- imum fabric yield according to quality requirements. Invisible synchronisation marks are – also automatical- ly – applied and indicate the position of defects and cut positions in a roll, so these are always under control, allowing the cutting table to run at maximum possible speed for maximised fabric yield. We Cover everything in TEXTILEs!
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- 84. 84 TVC |APRIL 2022 M A R C H 2 0 2 2 An increasing trend was witnessed during the month. CURRENCY EXCHANGE T H E Y A R N B A Z A A R T I M E S 38710.38 ⬆ 2.98% Cotlook A Index 138.68 ⬆ 0.11% OUR OPINION Raw Cotton (March 2022) Cotton Yarn (March 2022) Cotton Fabrics (March 2022) MCX Spot Rate Shankar 6 (29) INR 80601.9 ⬆ 3.50% ⬆76.73% - - ⬆ 76.86% ⬆ 50.36% ⬆ 10.27% ⬆21.17% 41s KW (India) 60 CWC (India) INR 459.1 ⬇ 2.99% 60*60 Satin (144*66-48) 40*40 Twill (132*64-63) INR 60.63 ⬆ 3.54% National News (26 April 2022) International News( 26 April 2022) MAR AVG PER KG LAST YEAR LAST YEAR MAR AVG PER CANDY MAR AVG PER METRE www.theyarnbazaar.com partner@theyarnbazaar.com +91 7208968393 30 KW (India) 60*60 Satin (165*104-63) INR 106.11 ⬆ 0.86% INR 316.4 ⬆ 0.13% ⬆ 23.69% *All the rates are indicative and Ex-mill. % change are calculated with respect to previous month rates INR 94.4 ⬆ 0.77% INR 351.8 ⬇ 2.37% LAST YEAR 90000 - 75900 (26 April 2022) HIGHEST- LOWEST HIGHEST- LOWEST HIGHEST- LOWEST 43350 - 36690 152.75 - 133.15 337 - 303 367 - 343 481 - 451 63 - 59.5 108 - 104 96.4 - 93.1 As Seen On Dollar Euro Yuan Pounds 76.5 ⬇ 0.25% 82.12 ⬇ 0.07% 11.7 ↔ 0% 97.59 ⬇ 0.10% 1. Spinning mills in north India not keen to reduce cotton yarn prices 2. Telangana govt prepares crop plan; to promote cotton, red gram 3. Growing cotton more profitable: Agriculture Minister Singireddy Niranjan Reddy 4. Cotton Dropped as Telangana Government is Targeting to Increase the Area by 55–65% 1. Taiwan Textile Federation to reveal green manufacturing technology 2. RCEP trade to benefit recovery of world economy 3. China's economy sees stable start in Q1 2022 4. French Textile Manufacturers to show turnkey solutions at ITM Istanbul YARN REPORT
- 85. 85 TVC |APRIL 2022 Corporate Office : SF-34, Vasant Square, Vasant Kunj, New Delhi – 110070, India Mobile : +91 98100 09264, 96506 54343 Email : mani@bishnutexport.com Air Covered Yarns in Nylon-6, Nylon-66 and Polyester Single Covered Yarns 20 Denier to 250 Denier for High end Seamless Knitting and Medical Bandages 20 Denier to 300 Denier in S Z twists Double Covered Yarns 350 Denier to 1400 Denier Single And Double Covered Yarns in Nylon-6, Nylon-66 and Polyester
- 86. 86 TVC |APRIL 2022 11 MOST IMPORTANT E-COMMERCE TRENDS OF 2022-2023 TVC Editorial Team Every year brings with it something new and this year, sadly, has brought another Covid 19 variant. However, through thick and thin, the old and new-life must go on. It does not stop for anyone and time passes. And so, businesses must learn to adapt to the changing en- vironment. That, for a lot of companies today, means E-Commerce, says Lokendra Singh Ranawat, Co-Founder and CEO of WoodenStreet. To gain the maximum profit and loyal customers, adapting to E-Commerce trends be- comes a necessity. This year, we are all going back to the basics of commerce. Customer is and always has been ‘king’. Things like sustainability and authentic user experience are extremely important too. E-commerce platforms, as well as other industries, should look for ways to embrace the change and integrate technology in their businesses to increase customer reach. Listed below are some of the emerging E-Commerce trends that can help you take your business to the next level. 1. ChatBots With ChatBots gaining more human qualities, it is im- portant to utilise the power of machine learning in on- line shopping. AI-powered tools have become a central part of a lot of customer-centred experience creation and can emulate the presence of an ‘in-store assistant’ while shopping which can prove to be a great aid for the customer. 2. User Experience Optimization One of the more important aspects of working in an E-commerce store is to make the customer’s experi- ence as seamless and hassle-free as possible. Similarly, an easy and well-designed user interface can have a lot of impact on the customer as well. 3. Mobile Commerce Making your E-commerce services available on phones and mobiles is another trend that e-commerce com- panies must hop on. Making their businesses mo- bile-friendly allows one to tap into the market with utmost ease since smartphones are a largely available and viable source of growth. 4. Diverse Payment Methods Consumers today wants to pay for their order in vari- ous ways and it is up to the E-marketers to utilise the plethora of various technologies available to integrate a whole lot of diverse payment modes, like E-wallets and Pay later options, available on their websites and apps. 5. Using AR and VR Technology With the unprecedented growth in consumer tech, us- E-COMMERCE TRENDS
- 87. 87 TVC |APRIL 2022 ing tech-based systems like AR and VR can make online shopping a more immersive and informative experi- ence. The use of such visual technologies can also help companies reach out to a new market. 6. Personalised Marketing Customers today are asking for personalised services and marketing efforts. The push for using custom- er-specific materials is great and it has never been easier. Technology and data tracking allow AI to utilise the innumerable resources of the internet and chan- nel-specific marketing content as well as personalised product recommendations to each individual. 7. Data Control It is important to know that even though there is a lot of importance that is being given to personalised mar- keting efforts, data privacy concerns are also gaining ground. It is important to balance the personalisation aspect with privacy concerns. 8. Sustainability There is a greater call for Institutions and E-Commerce to be sustainable and socially responsible. Trying to make the services and shopping experience as envi- ronmentally and socially responsible as possible can bring out a positive shift in attitude towards the brand. 9. Subscription and Loyalty Programs Making loyalty and subscription rewardable allows for a positive shift in user reach and encourages people to shop more and refer more. 10. Omnichannel Customer Experience Utilising all aspects of media available for public use can make it easier to increase brand visibility and make for a better, hassle-free user experience. Being able to pick up where you left off can make shopping easier for the consumer. 11. Utilize Various Selling Channels People are moving towards a better customer experi- ence and E-commerce giants can give their consumers more incentives to shop on their platforms. Moreover, social media markets are also emerging and a shift to such markets can make things a lot easier. This shift in the consumer base and their demands are the driver of change this year. For E-commerce busi- nesses to be successful and profitable, it is necessary to embrace the changes and rework your business model to focus on the customer and their needs. When this is done properly and targeted at the right audience, you will notice a positive shift in the market as well.
- 88. 88 TVC |APRIL 2022 YOUNG DESIGNERS OF SATYAM FASHION INSTITUTE SHOWCASE WOMEN OF TODAY TVC Editorial Team F ashion Women are the heart and soul of our society and International Women’s Day is the mo- ment and occasion to celebrate women. To show and extend their support, Satyam Fashion Institute’s graduating students designed their collection inspired by various facets of life and the roles that women play. Women love to dress well and exhibit their personal style through clothes. The collection was versatile and comfortable yet stylish keeping in mind the working women of today. Marking the celebration of International Women’s Day dedicating the true spirit of womanhood TRIPTYCH 2022 was a gala evening of 15 shows by the very tal- ented students of Satyam Fashion Institute (SFI). Their collection was creative, stylish, and fashionable. The students are all set to conquer the world of fashion with their 15 different themes drawing their inspira- tion from nature and the environment. The collection was designed using natural fabrics like cotton, linen, and silk making the fashion industry more sustainable. The students graduating from Fashion Design, Textile Design and Post Graduate Diploma in Fashion Design together put on a great show. The show was recently held at Satyam Fashion Institute; sector 62 Noida was choreographed by Rachna Sikka. The glamorous event provided a platform to showcase the ravishing attire designed by the Graduating Batch from scratch under the supervision of Show Organisers Dr. Vandana Jaglan, Principal, and Dr. Neetu Malhotra, HOD SFI. TRIPTYCH 2022 was aptly organised and celebrated with the unabashed spirit of a woman on the auspi- cious occasion of the International Woman’s Day. Mrs. Sneh Singh, Chairperson, and Mr. Pradeep Gupta, Secretary, Satyam Group of Institutions talked about their experience with organising the evening: “It was a tough time for all, in spite of the difficult times I am re- ally happy to see the wonderful creations of students at the runway. This year students have taken their in- spiration from nature and designed beautiful out-of- the-box ensembles.” Dr. Vandana Jaglan, Show Organiser Principal, Sa- tyam Fashion Institute said, “Each year we aim to make a difference in the design industry, the way people dress, the way people perceive clothes. This year the students have dedicated their collection to the women of our society on the occasion of International Wom- FASHION
- 89. 89 TVC |APRIL 2022 en’s Day. They have designed clothes that are chic yet comfortable for working women. Dr. Neetu Malhotra, Show Organiser HOD, Satyam Fashion Institute Said, Institute Said, “We are really happy to organize the show for students after a gap of one-year due covid pandemic. The 15 themes that our students have exhibited through their work on the run- way today only proves that creativity and innovation have no boundaries. Each and every show was distinct and showcased wonderful creations for the women of today. We are immensely proud of our young talented students who have come out of the cocoon and have put up a spectacular show of sustainable fashion gar- ments.” The people were captivated by 15 different themes showcased at the fashion show were, Orn Rocaille in- spired by Rococo a collection of flowing fabric in beau- tiful combination of glamour beige and fushia pink. Wear the Change theme is inspired by Art Nouveau designed with cotton and chiffon fabrics and creating ensembles in very Peri and Pearl Violet. Bang on Street is a pop art-inspired theme for the street style fashion lovers, created using fabrics like Denim, matty and net in shades of blue and white. Serenity to Dignity is a collection inspired by roshini in shades of peach and purple. Shibori is dedicated to marine life, the collec- tion is designed in shades of blue and grey. Go Veg- an is another theme to protect and save the environ- ment, created using natural fabrics like cotton, satin and georgette in animal prints. Scars of Beauty is in- spired by Kintsugi a Japanese art to embrace and heal to celebrate life. Bitten by Art is an amazing collection depicting art in fashion. Humanity to nature theme is ready to wear fashion inspired by shades of flowers. Flora escasa theme was inspired by Jade vine flower in soothing shades of blue and white for summers. “The Never Ending Fantasy” theme is the celebration of colours in neon designed with cooling Glazed cot- ton fabric. Space the futuristic collection made of pu leather, cambric and linen. Warli Art is inspired by an- cient life of humans depicting in light shades. Sunaya- na – the silent pillar of strength collection is dedicated to the women who are always the pillar of strength in every house. Voir a nouveau draws its inspiration from the ancient European culture is designed for women who make a difference with their sense of style. Prominent personalities from the Fashion industry who graced the occasion were Dr. Shashikala Wanjari, Ms. Shashi Nangia, Mr. Ravi. K. Passi, Mr. R.K. Srivas- tava, Mr. Mukesh Aggarwal, Mr. Shiv Kumar Gupta, Mr. Rajeev Bansal, Mr. Manish Tripathi, Mr. Sonil Jain, Mr. Himmendra Gupta, Ms. Isha Sood, Ms. Suman Negi, Ms. Simmi Vasu, and Mr. Deepak Sood. About Satyam Fashion Institute: Satyam Fashion Insti- tute (SFI) is on the map of Professional Higher Educa- tion with a strong dedication to the cause of women empowerment by educating them in the field of Fash- ion Design. These trained professionals will scale new heights and set new benchmarks in the growth of the Indian economy and will form an integral part of industry set up. The Institute offers an outstanding learning environment for students by providing state of the art infrastructure, facilities, course curriculum and teaching methodology.
- 90. 90 TVC |APRIL 2022 Texxle Auxiliaries Eco-Friendly Products Robust Infrastructure Skilled Team Strong Research Development Capabiliies ABOUT COSMO SPECIALITY CHEMICALS Cosmo Speciality Chemicals, India’s fastest growing textile auxiliary manufacturer adds innovation to the textile industry. Polyst PB Polyst PLD PROTECT THE COLOURS OF FABRIC Eco-Friendly Levelling Cum Dispersing Agent Low Foaming Improve Dispersion Property Eliminate Fabric Shade Variaaon Good Lubricity
- 91. 91 TVC |APRIL 2022 Denim Show to showcase Indian industry prowess at first Mumbai edition TVC Editorial Team I nnovative, fashionable, sustainable will define the Denim Show as the industry will get together to showcase their prowess at its first-ever Mumbai edi- tion from 12 – 14, May 2022 at the newly launched Jio World Convention Centre (JWCC) in BKC. As one the fastest recovering market segments post the pandemic outbreak, the denim industry is pegged to showcase a sustainable growth rate of 12% CAGR, highlighted Denim Manufacturer Association’s (DMA) Secretary General Mr Gagandeep Singh. All set for its Mumbai launch, the Denim Show aims to bring the In- dia’s denim mills and leading brands together to tap opportunities through the versatility of denim - the fashion statement of future. Leading brands such as Hyosung India, Jindal World- wide, Arvind, Ginni International, Raymond UCO Den- im, Bhaskar Denim, LNJ Denim, Oswal Denims, KG Den- im, Nandan Denim, and Ashima Group among others have confirmed their participation for the Mumbai launch. The show will be jointly organised by Messe Frankfurt Trade Fairs India Pvt Ltd and Mex Exhibitions Pvt Ltd under the umbrella of Gartex Texprocess India, and cover the latest developments in textile, garment machinery and screen printing with the objective to encourage investments, new market development and enable India to be a globally competitive textile and denim manufacturing destination. India is the world’s second largest producer of denim fabric after China. “The Indian denim market capacity, at present, is approximately 1.6 BN meters p.a. and ap- proximately 150 MN meters capacity.” added Mr Ga- gandeep Singh. The Indian denim industry has evolved significantly with ever changing fashion trends making its way into other utility-driven products. Innovative, fashionable, sustainable is what the organisers define will be the focus of the Denim Show in 2022. Denim trends and market revamp The last few years have redefined the textile indus- try with the denim sector going through a big revamp in terms of the fits and fabric constructions. While a significant portion of womenswear denim has hauled from high stretch fabrics to more of comfort stretch and rigid classic 80s denim, fits as well moving from skinny to more relaxed and flared, menswear denim on the contrary is edging towards comfort to stretch fab- rics with clean basic washes. Hand-feel plays an im- portant role for all segments which implies the need of fashion
- 92. 92 TVC |APRIL 2022 superior spinning techniques, finer counts and blends. Overdyed, tinted and coloured jeans are some of the key fashion products continuing from last few seasons. According to one of India’s top denim fabric manufac- turers LNJ Denim, the domestic market is still dominat- ed by faux knit fabrics but with recent escalations in the cost of key ingredients, LNJ Denim expect a shift towards more classic and authentic denim but with superior hand feel and saturation. In terms of shades, vintage versatile pure indigos are back because of emphasis on clean and mild washes with raw look for basics while distressed and bleached denim in the high fashion product for all genders and age groups. Denim industry taking steps towards sustainability and circularity Being one of the mainstream sectors in fashion indus- try, denim mills are now steadily implementing cir- cularity in their production processes. Indian denim brands are taking strong steps in a direction towards creating more responsible denim fabrics that reduces the gap between fashion and sustainability. These fab- rics can be crafted into a luxurious and versatile gar- ment collection for eco-conscious consumers. Of these is the renowned Raymond UCO who is said to be reinventing excellence with its high-quality den- im fabrics using recycled polyester from ocean-bound plastics and Blu 2.0: a unique indigo dyeing process. The process involves recycling the ocean-bound plas- tics into fibers and blending with cotton to weave sus- tainable denims, reducing the freshwater consumption and effluent load in the dyeing process by about 85% using BLU 2.0 process and using eco-friendly dyes like natural indigo to reduce the dependence on synthetic chemicals. The brand is working on making responsible denim and has curated a special denim collection that offers ultimate comfort, breathability, and moisture management while also being environment-friendly, which will be seen at the Denim Show in Mumbai. Head of Marketing at Raymond UCO, Mr Sudhir Deorukhkar explains: “These are small steps in the right direction towards creating more responsible denim fabrics that reduces the gap between fashion and sustainability. These fabrics can be crafted into a luxurious and versatile garment collection for eco-con- scious consumers.” Raymond UCO has curated a spe- cial denim collection that offers ultimate comfort, breathability, and moisture management while also being environment-friendly, which will be seen at the Denim Show. Adding to this, Mr Ashish Bhatnagar, Marketing Head, LNJ Denim said: “With our commitment and responsi- bility towards the environment, sustainability is more of hygiene for us now with persistent developments and focuses across various functional stages of fabric process.” The brand focuses on functional, sustainable and superior hand-feel denim fabrics made possible through various blends, spinning as well as finish inno- vations which will also be on display at the three-day Denim Show in Mumbai. Together with its focus on textile and garment machin- eries, fabrics trims, screen printing and denim – Gar- tex Texprocess India will become one-stop creative and collaborative platform for the textile industry.
- 93. 93 TVC |APRIL 2022 T he Textile Taskforce of Gujarat Chamber of Com- merce and Industry successfully organized the Textile Interactive Meet and Textile Leadership Conclave 2022 on 23rd April, 2022 at Ahmedabad, Gu- jarat at Shree Shakti Convention Centre. The Textile Interactive Meet saw leaders of as many as 27 leading national and regional associations related to textiles industry interact with Smt. Darshana Jar- dosh, Hon’ble Union Minister of State for Textiles, Shri Jagdish Panchal, Hon’ble Minister of Industries, Govt. of Gujarat, Ms. Roop Rashi Mahapatra IAAS, Textile Commissioner, Govt. of India and Dr. Munjal Dave, In- dustries Officer, Govt. of Gujarat. The interaction saw a dialogue between the Government and Industry on Current Affairs / FTA / Growth Plan / Incentive Subsi- dies / Taxation / Cotton Production for Textile industry among others. A detailed presentation for the purpose Gujrat chamber of commerce and industry : Textile leadership conclave 2022 TVC Editorial Team was created by the team of Gujarat Chamber of Com- merce and Industry with inputs from regional as well as national associations and the same was presented to the Honorable Ministers and Government repre- sentatives. The Ministers and Government representa- tives have assured to look into these matters and help with speedy resolutions. The participating associations and their leaders ap- preciated this unprecedented attempt by the Gujarat Chamber of Commerce and Industry to bring various national and regional associations on one platform and present a consolidated set of suggestions and recom- mendations to the government. As many as 600 participants from the across the ver- ticals such as Ginning, Spinning, Weaving, Process House, Garment manufacturers, Technical Textile and Machinery manufacturers from across the country EVENT UPDATES
- 94. 94 TVC |APRIL 2022 participated in the conclave. The Textile Leadership Conclave saw four leaders of the textile industry speak on the success story of their business groups. Shri Pu- nit Lalbhai (Arvind Group), Shri Rajesh Mandawewa- la (Welspun Group), Shri Rajendra Agarwal (Donear Group), Shri Mohan Kavrie (Supreme Group) and Shri Rohit Pal (Infiiloom) were the speakers at the conclave. On the occasion, Shri Hemant Shah – President of GCCI said “With many Free Trade Agreements being signed by the government and new PLI schemes, the textile sector of India stands a chance to benefit a lot. And GCCI was extremely happy to have organized this inter- active meet and the leadership conclave at the cusp of such a transition for sector”. Shri Saurin Parikh, Chairman of GCCI Textile Taskforce said “GCCI Textile Task Force has been relentlessly working on various levels for the cause of textiles in the state and country at large. And today’s event has set a fresh benchmark. I was very happy that despite short notice, leaders from as many as 27 leading na- tional and regional associations of India joined the in- teraction and conclave”. In the inauguration session Hon. Minister Smt. Darsha- na Jardosh said that she and Hon’ble Minister Shri Pi- yush Goyal Ji are committed to resolve any issues that the industry is suffering and more so if the matter re- lates to Gujarat. She thanked GCCI for inviting her and giving the opportunity to interact with industrialists. Hon. Minister Shri Jagdish Vishwakarma remarked that the Technical Textile Industry of Gujarat and In- dia came to the rescue of the world during Pandemic by providing with uninterrupted supply of Masks and PPE Kits. He remarked that Gujarat has the best in class infrastructure and presence of diversified indus- tries which makes it a very friendly business state. He invited all the textile entrepreneurs from across India to come forward and invest and the state will fully sup- port them. Ms. Roop Rashi Mahapatra assured to reduce bottle- necks for the industry and smoothen the facilitation processes. In the conclave – Shri Rajendra Agarwal of Donear group shared the story of his inspiration and remarked that struggles are a part of our life and we all should try to persist and overcome them.
- 95. 95 TVC |APRIL 2022 India is yet to catch up with global trends in technical textiles: G.V. Aras TVC Editorial Team T he Textile Association (India), Mumbai Unit or- ganised One Day Seminar on “Technical Textiles – Need of Today and Tomorrow” on 26th March 2022 at Vapi (Gujarat). The seminar was inaugurated by the Chief Guest Mr. G. V. Aras, Consultant Strate- gic Business Advisor and Former Director, A.T.E. Enter- prises Pvt. Ltd. Mr. G. V. Aras while giving his inaugural address said that there are a lot of opportunities in Technical Tex- tiles industry but we are not able to grab them to prove ourselves in the international market. We don’t have the capacity for bulk manufacturing which can fulfil the requirements of big buyers. He also focussed that it is need of the hour to get skilled manpower in this area. He suggested that textile educational institute should make technical textiles as a compulsory sub- ject in their curriculum. He also emphasized that due to Covid problems in China the production capacity has been considerably reduced and hence Indian tex- tile industry has tremendous opportunity to increase the productivity and grab the international market. He also praised the Indian textile industry for increase in the manufacturing of mask and medical kits business during this pandemic period. Inaugural Session Mr. V. C. Gupte, Chairman, TAI, Mumbai Unit in his welcome address welcomed the Chief Guest, Key Note Speaker and Guests of Honour. He also welcomed the Awardees of The Lifetime Achievement Award The Industrial Excellence Award, Speakers, Press, Media and delegates. Chief Guest, Mr. G. V. Aras, Consultant Strategic Business Advisor and Former Director, A.T.E. Enterprises Pvt. Ltd. lighting the lamp. Standing (L to R): Mr. R. K. Vij, President, TAI, Mr. Vikas Sharan, Vice Presi- dent, TAI, Mumbai Unit, Mr. V. C. Gupte, Chairman, TAI, Mumbai Unit, Mr. G. V. Aras, Mr. Amit Agarwal, Chairman, ITTA, Mr. A. V. Mantri, Hon. Sec- retary, TAI, Mumbai Unit, Mr. Haresh B. Parekh, Convenor of the Seminar. Chief Guest, Mr. G. V. Aras delivering his inaugural address. EVENT UPDATES
- 96. 96 TVC |APRIL 2022 proposed a Vote of Thanks. Technical Session THEME ADDRESS Mr. Pramod Khosla, Chairman Managing Director, Khosla Profile Pvt. Ltd. delivered theme address on “Importance of Technical Textile in Indian Textile In- dustry’. In his address he discussed about the various sectors in the technical textiles and emphasized on the newly introduced composites. He also gave the guide- lines for Textile Technicians for manufacturing Techni- cal Textile. SESSION – I PANEL DISCUSSION A Panel Discussion on the topic ‘Emerging Opportuni- ties in Technical Textiles’ was featured an important event of the seminar. The discussion moderated by Dr. Chandan Chattarjee, Executive Director, ADS Founda- tion and the panel was comprised of senior leaders from the textile industry. The panel members came up with some radical thoughts which could be helpful for the growth of Technical Textile industry. Mr. Narendra Dalmia, Director CEO, Strata Geo- Mr. Haresh B. Parekh, Convenor of the Seminar while giving the highlights said that this seminar is organised to discuss the Opportunities for the Technical Textile industry in the challenging scenario. This exclusive seminar is to discuss the need of technical textiles for today and tomorrow. The deliberations in this seminar will show the future trend to do more towards new arenas of research, innovation, market development and investments in technical textile business. Dr. Anup Rakshit, Executive Director, Indian Technical textile association (ITTA) in his Key Note Address said that ITTA is playing very crucial role in developing tech- nical textile activity across the nation and guiding or- ganization in the field in all respects. He highlighted various sectors of technical textiles and government initiatives toward establishing technical textile busi- ness in the country. Mr. Amit Agrawal, Chairman, Indian Technical Textile Association (ITTA) in his address as a Guest of Honour discussed about ITTA’s vision toward technical textile business in India. He also mentioned about the policy initiatives on Technical Textiles introduced by Ministry of Textiles, Government of India. The Textile Association (India), Mumbai Unit felicitat- ed Mr. Pramod Khosla, Chairman Managing Director, Khosla Profile Pvt. Ltd with “The Lifetime Achievement Award” and Mr. Narendra Dalmia, Director CEO, Strata Geosystems (India) Pvt. Ltd. with “The Industry Excellence Award” for their outstanding contribution in the field of technical textiles. Mr. A. V. Mantri, Hon. Secretary, TAI, Mumbai Unit, Guest of Honour, Mr. Amit Agarwal addressing the gathering. Key Note Speaker, Dr. Anup Rakshit addressing the gathering.
- 97. 97 TVC |APRIL 2022 systems (India) Pvt. Ltd. talked about geosynthetic material development and shared examples of its ap- plication. He mentioned how technology can resolve national problem in this road construction area. Ac- cording to him there is huge opportunities in technical textile business. » Dr. Mohit Raina, Managing Director, Raina Indus- tries Pvt. Ltd. highlighted about role of FRP in civil engineering applications and how a corrosion issue can be solved using textile materials. He elaborat- ed good examples on sustainable solution to solve various problems. » Mr. R. K. Viz, Advisor-Polyester, Indorama Synthet- ics Pvt. Ltd. focussed his discussion on the role of man made fibre in development of technical tex- tiles. He stressed on PIL scheme of GOI and its ben- efits. » Mr. Yogesh Kumar Garg, Managing Director, Dilo India Pvt. Ltd. took up a point on weaving machines for technical textile manufacturing. He also high- lighted about role of Jute, banana, pineapple natu- ral fibre role in technical textile development. SESSION – II During the technical session, following papers were presented by the eminent speakers. » Mr. Paresh Shah, Vice President, Rabatex Indus- tries Pvt. Ltd. presented the paper on “Rabatex : Warp preparation solutions for technical textiles” » Mr. Anurag Tandon, India Sales Manager, Avgol Nonwovens India Pvt. Ltd. presented the paper on “Polyester Market Growth”. » Mr. Anjani K. Prasad, Managing Director, India Cluster, Archroma India Pvt. Ltd. made presenta- tion on “Sustainable Technical Textile-Chemical View”. » Mr. Sudipto Mandal, Assistant Manager-Sales Marketing, Oerlikon textiles India Pvt. Ltd. pre- sented paper on “Innovative manmade Fibres Solutions Technology for textile and technical Textile application, Supporting sustainable textile value chain”. SESSION – III PANEL DISCUSSION A Panel Discussion on the topic ‘Technological Ad- Mr. Pramod Khosla, Chairman Managing Director, Khosla Profil Pvt. Ltd. receiving The Lifetime Achievement Award by the hands of Chief Guest. Mr. Narendra Dalmia, Director CEO, Strata Geosystems (India) Pvt. Ltd. receiving The Industrial Excellence Award by the hands of Chief Guest. Release of Book of Papers: Standing (L to R): Mr. A. V. Mantri, Mr. Haresh B. Parekh, Mr. V. C. Gupte, Mr. R. K. Vij, Mr. G. V. Aras, Mr. Amit Agarwal, Mr. Vikas Sharan, Dr. Anup Rakshit.
- 98. 98 TVC |APRIL 2022 development. Mr. Sanjay Sathe, Sr. Vice President Head Product Management, Archroma India Pvt. Ltd. stressed upon the sustainable innovative solution to effluent problem faced by Technical Textile industry. He also spoke on safety and efficiency issue faced by industry and solu- tion on using various novel products from Archroma. Mr. Narendra Kajale, Vice President, Technology Innovations, Texport Syndicate (Ind) Ltd. took up the point of textile industry dependency on fossile fuel. He also spoke on climate change, protection from heat using technical textile materials, energy storage issue and human safety aspects. He also elaborated perfor- mance simulation model of garment as smart technical textiles. Mr. Birendranath Bandhopadhyay, President, Ku- sumgar Corporates Pvt. Ltd. talk about new product development in technical textiles safety jackets to be used in Indian defence force. He shared valuable infor- mation on technical textile viz. shape memory textiles, Sports textiles, parachute fabric and technical textiles based on recycled materials. The panel discussions were followed up with very good questions from the participants which were replied by the panel members. The seminar was a grand success and was attended by more than 225 delegates. vancements in Technical Textiles’ was featured as the last event of the seminar. The discussion moderated by Dr. Arup Rakshit Executive Director, Indian Technical Textile Association (ITTA). The panel was comprised of experts from the field of the technical textile industry. They came up with new ideas which could be helpful to the technical Textiles industry. Mr. Prashant M. Mangukia, Director, Yamuna Machine Works Pvt. Ltd. spoke upon manufacturing of finishing machines and their innovative features. He highlight- ed working of finishing machines at various technical textile manufacturing units involved in technical textile Panel Discussion Session II: Mr. Narendra Kajale, Vice President, Technology Innovations, Texport Syndicate (Ind) Ltd., Mr. Sanjay Sathe, Sr. Vice President Head Prod- uct Management, Archroma India Pvt. Ltd., Dr. Anup Rakshit, Executive Director, ITTA, Mr. Prashant M. Mangukia, Director, Yamuna Machine Works Pvt. Ltd., Mr. Birendranath Bandhopadhyay, President, Kusumgar Corporates Pvt. Ltd. Dignitaries Sitting in the Auditorium Panel Discussion Session I: Mr. Narendra Dalmia, Director CEO, Strata Geosystems (India) Pvt. Ltd., Dr. Mohit Raina, Managing Director, Raina Industries Pvt. Ltd., Dr. Chan- dan Chatterjee, Executive Director, ADS Foundation, Mr. R. K. Vij, Advi- sor-Polyester, Indorama Synthetics (India) Ltd., Mr. Yogesh Kumar Garg, Managing Director, Dilo India Pvt. Ltd.
- 99. 99 TVC |APRIL 2022 Garment Training Program for rural community TVC Editorial Team S hri Vaishnav Institute of Textile Technology has organised a “One-month free Garment Training Program for Rural Community” in December, 2021. The program commenced on December 1st and concluded on December 31st, 2021 at the SVITT, SVVV campus. The objective of the program was to promote the self independency in the life of rural community through the modern technology. It is a continuous activity of the SVITT since 2006. SVITT, SVVV is proud to deliver the 15th batch of students of this training program (December 2021) under the “Azadi ka Amrut Mahotsav”. So far more than 300 candidates got ben- efited out of this program. In this year, 15 females from Baroli, Alvasa, Bhaurasla, and Ringnodiya participated. Current garment training program is based on industrial training module. It in- cludes introduction to basic measurements, pattern making, machine operation, cutting, sewing etc. For the training modern high speed Japanese JUKI machin- eries were utilised. Mr. Rajkumar Sharma (Laboratory Assistant) conducted the training program in presence of faculties. Closing ceremony of the training program was or- ganised on 3rd January 2022, in the presence of Mrs. Suruchee Taparia, Proprietor, Go green Textiles, Indore as Chief Guest in the presence of Hon. Vice chancellor, SVVV Dr. Upinder Dhar and Coordinator, SVITT, Dr. Na- mit Gupta along with the faculties and staff members of SVITT family. In the concluding ceremony, Dr. Namit Gupta, has briefed about the program and explained the scope of garment manufacturing in and around Indore. He em- phasized the importance of skill developments in ev- ery day’s life. Dr. Upinder Dhar Vice chancellor, SVVV addressed the gathering and pointed out the benefits of skill development programs to the participants. He also encouraged participants to be in touch in future with SVITT, SVVV for further improvement. Spread of awareness about the trainning program into the rural urban women to become economically independent EVENT UPDATES
- 100. 100 TVC |APRIL 2022 in much needed steps towards attaining Atmanirbhar Bharat. The Chief Guest of the event, Mrs. Suruchee Taparia had pointed out the enormous capabilities of wom- en. She inspired for this type of training programs for the empowerment of individual their families. She emphasised on “Swavlamban” the self dependent, economically independent identity of individual. She also encouraged the participants for regular practice to enhance their garment making skill. In the ceremo- ny, trainees also shared their experiences and thanked SVVV for providing such a platform which has poten- tial to change their life style and make them self de- pendent. Mrs. Rachna Ghehlot, one of the benefited participants of the program shared her future plan to start garment business. At last, words of thanks were proposed by Prof. Ajay Shankar Joshi, Garment Train- ing Coordinator. The master of ceremony was Mr. Suraj Thakur GLOBALSPIN TRADE CONCLAVE AT WTC, MUMBAI TVC Editorial Team G lobalSpin Trade Conclave on Eco-handlooms, Eco-textiles and Apparels (https://globalspin. net/) held from March 25-26, 2022 at World Trade Center, Mumbai and was jointly organized by National Institute For Micro, Small and Medium Enter- prises (NI-MSME), Ministry of MSME, Govt. of India, IAMKHAADII FOUNDATION (IAMKHADI) and WORLD TRADE CENTER MUMBAI in association with NIFT Foundation for Design Innovation (NFDI), an organisa- tion, Ministry of Textiles, Government of India and All India Association of Industries. Dr. Vijay Kalantri, Chairman, WTC Mumbai; Mr. Yash Arya, Founder IAMKHADI; Dr. Gloryswarupa Director General NI-MSME; Dr. Pavan Godiawala Director NIFT Mumbai, accompanied by the Chief Guest the Hon’ble Governor of Karnataka, Shri. Bhagat Singh Koshyari on the dais during the inaugural ceremony. The speeches delivered by all delegatory on the dais the ceremony concluded with a vote of by Dr. K. Visweswara Reddy, Faculty, NIMSME. Chairman, WTC Mumbai emphasised the need of com- ing up with eco-friendly textile parks with Center of Excellence on sustainable textile. He further highlight- ed the need for Industry and academia collaboration wherein NFDI is playing an instrumental role provid- ing an incubation support to budding entrepreneurs who aim to convert their academic achievements to business milestones. He further encouraged the ini- tiative taken up through GlobalSpin, an initiative of EVENT UPDATES
- 101. 101 TVC |APRIL 2022 the entrepreneurs. Interestingly two out of three pre- senters for the start-up presentations were from Wom- an entrepreneur, further strengthening the initiatives on woman empowerment. The Mr. Seewraj Nundlall, Counsellor (Trade and In- vestment), Embassy of Mauritius gave a presentation about country Mauritius and talked about business opportunites between both the countries and urged if the trade delegation by IAMKHADI can be planned to Mauritius to promote investment in textile sector, start-up exchange program and cultural ties between both countries. The series of events concluded with a panel discus- sion on Towards Role of Funding Agencies towards Export Marketing. The session was moderated by Mr. Yash Arya, Founder CEO, IAMKHADI (https://iamkhadi. org/). The panellists majorly deliberated on the idea of getting MSMEs prepared for Global Trade and Exports. GlobalSpin Awards nomination has been open and the award ceremony is planned to hold during August-Sep- tember 2022 at World Trade Center, Mumbai along with International Exhibition, Conclave and Fashion Show. GOTS has shown interest to partner for this ini- tiative. Through this GlobalSpin Trade Conclave, the Organ- isers and Co-Organisers wanted to start an engage- ment with all the stakeholders of textile value chain to initiate a unique project UDAAN, which is towards cre- ating millions of micro entrepreneurs in the India i.e., it will create jobs and generate more foreign exchange for India, thus enhancing exports. It aims to create an enabling environment for enhancing skill development and entrepreneurship for the flow of trade, commerce, and technology and engage, enable and empower mi- cro-entrepreneurs and start-ups to gain a better under- standing of the challenges to global trade and export competitiveness. It focuses to towards ODOP and As- pirational Districts creating millions of micro entrepre- neurs. IAMKHADI and insisted on organising many more such industry events, trade fairs and exhibitions to create awareness about age-old eco-friendly textile craft of India. Furthermore, he highlighted the need of the modern textile ind ustry to shift towards environment friendly practices and become more acceptable in the global market. The inaugural session was graced by the presence of Honourable Governor of Maharashtra and many of international delegate. Kuwait, Mauritius, Zimbabwe, Egypt, UAE, South Africa, etc… The audience was con- stituted of guests from MSMEs, Start-ups, Women En- trepreneurs, Exporters, Traders, Government Officials, students and faculty of NIFT Mumbai. The inaugural session was followed by welcome ad- dress delivered by Mr. Yash Arya, Founder, IAMKHADI and a brief introduction of NFDI by Dr. Ajit Nigam, CEO, NFDI. Thereafter, a technical panel discussion moder- ated by Dr. Ajit Nigam with panel members Ms. Sakina Ansari, Mr. Ramez Basmaji, Mr. Sachin A. Punekar, Ms. Dolly Bhasin (SMARTEDGE) and Mr. Ganesh Kasekar (GOTS). Later the floor was open for audience interac- tion and was found to be immersing with deliberation and discussion on Sustainable fashion, Organic textiles, Technology intervention in Textile and Apparel Busi- ness, and many more. Leveraging the artisans towards accomplishing their business in compliance with global standards was one of the focus areas where the panel- lists discussed in detail. The start-up presentations were given by Ms. Saki- na Ansari, Co-founder Maalgaadi, Mr. Kartik Raichu- ra, CEO, InstaWeb Labs Pvt. Ltd., Ms. Bhavini Parikh, Founder, Bunkojunko, Mr. Sourabh Wagh, CTO SATAT- SOUK (a unit of IAMKHADI Export Pvt. Ltd.) and Ms. Tasneem Merchant, Creative Director, Tasneem Mer- chant Label. All these start-ups shared their ethos be- hind the Vision and Mission which they hold for their company and brands. Audiences were enlightened with business strategy of this business directly from
- 102. 102 TVC |APRIL 2022 SMART GARMENTS FOR SMARTER LIVING, A WEBINAR REPORT TVC Editorial Team A Webinar on the topic “Smart Garments for Smarter Living” was recently organised by the Smart Wearable Systems (SWS) Incubator, NIFT Foundation for Design Innovation (NFDI). SWS Incuba- tor, NFDI under the aegis of National Institute of Fash- ion Technology and invited speakers Ilaria Varoli, Exec- utive Vice President, Sayantani Nandy, Chief Operating Officer, Soliyarn and Moderator Rashmi Thakur, Chief Operating Officer, Smart Wearable Systems Incubator, NFDI Assistant Professor, NIFT Mumbai. In the beginning of the webinar Moderator Rashmi Thakur talked about NFDI, as NFDI holds four of its in- cubators at three of NIFT centre NIFT Mumbai, NIFT Delhi and NIFT Chennai in dolman of home and spaces, Fashion and lifestyle accessories and Smart wearable system. Rashmi Thakur introduced the two experts from the area of smart wearable, Ilaria Varoli is Executive Vice President, Sayantani Nandy is Chief Operating Officer. She said the global smart wearable system is having compounded annual growth (CAGR) rate of 19.48% during the period 2021-2026. Smart clothing is advancing towards increased inno- vation thus leading to not only new products but also new raw materials. The sector majorly relies on con- ductive textiles and the ensemble is often called as E-textiles. At SWS Incubator we look forward to being instrumental towards the incubation of business ideas in the field. Two International speakers shared their in- sights both from the perspective of product and busi- ness development. Ilaria Varoli said her company MYANT demonstrated how to show human participation in a digital world. She said according to Todays Healthcare System Healthcare spending in U.S. exceeds US$3 trillion, nearly 20% of GDP. Access to a primary physician is below 50% in the US. Nearly 1 billion doctor visits take place annually in the U.S. alone. One-thirds do not know they have dia- betes, 1/5th do not know they have hypertension, nearly 20% report overall poor health. Africa has 13% of the world’s diseases burden, but just 3% of world’s doctors. Yet mobile penetration exceeds 85% across the continent. Ilaria Varoli said technology is pervasive, but significant gaps reminds human potential. We have limitations in data about our physical well being. We lack universal EVENT UPDATES
- 103. 103 TVC |APRIL 2022 access and participation. Our digital presence is limited to social content. Ilaria Varoli delivering a lecture on the topic “End To End Production” Ilaria Varoli introduced various products of Mayant with characteristics like: 1) Skin: Layering system that acts as user primary connector.2) Passive, ambient, continuous connection.3) Ubiquitous use of textiles.4) Create a new standard to connect humans.5) Working across multiple environments and over time. Ilaria Varoli delivered a lecture on the device “24/7 Detection and monitoring metrics featuring” which acts as a layering system for the user. She also deliv- ered a lecture on the topic ‘what Myant platform fol- lows best-practice privacy and security.’ The session was then hosted by Sayantani Nandy who introduced his company, Solariyan: Textile RE- Imag- ined. She said they started Solariyan only in 2018. “We call our company functional coating company more than anything else but we also develop some proto- types to demonstrate to define functionality. I come from textile background. We feel that in 5 years people will be demanding what clothes should be. They don’t want to spend too much; in the way they spend today.” She said they are a small team as you can see, as a start- up, their Journey has just started. She said according to their technology they develop functional coatings using proprietary and chemical vapour deposition. Coatings include: Conductive, FC free waterproofing and PFC free Olophobic. “Our Purpose is smart and comfortable clothing solution, free of processing with no water waste.” She said: “We have a unique approach: Our vapour phase chemistry achieves uniform, conformal, and virtually undetectable films that maintain both textile and electronic/waterproofing function- coatings are micron level thick, thus retaining form and feet. These are cheaper to produce than existing solutions; fast- er to produce as it is a step dry process.and sustain- able textile processing with no water requirement or waste.” Sayantani Nandy delivered a lecture on the topic ‘Heat- ed Gloves with Its competitive advantage and conduc- tive coating in Action.” She said why this is better than wires, and why it is better than carbon nanotubes which has immerged in the recent years especially outside Asia. “It is a piece of cotton fabric that it can be heated up. You will not feel that you are wearing more than your regular clothing. It is coated all around so it doesn’t have single wires running up and down the circuit, not at all creating hotspot. It is uniformly heated over the surface. This leads to heat distribution and comfort. It is durable as it created a covalent bond on the surface of the fabric,” she said. Right now our suite of heated product is gloves, boots, insoles. We have created for boots and gloves for military purpose. Recently we have started biosensors. After the end of lectures, a question and interaction session was held in between Sayantani Nandy and Rashmi Thakur. The Webinar ended with a Vote of Thanks given by Rashmi Thakur.
- 104. 104 TVC |APRIL 2022 EPC FOR TECHNICAL TEXTILES MOOTED TVC Editorial Team T here have been many export promotion councils (EPCs) for various fields of textiles clothing. As Technical Textile is a new subject, the govern- ment is thinking to form a separate export promotion council for Technical Textiles, said Union Minister of States for Textiles Ms. Darshana V. Jardosh, during in- augurating CMAI FAB SHOW on 11th April 2022 at Jio World Convention Centre, BKC, Mumbai. The Minister further stated that during the previous government, there was no proper coordination be- tween different ministries and nodal agencies were not functioning properly. Now, the present government under the able leadership of Prime Minister Narendra Modi, all concerned departments and ministries have smoother coordination among themselves. Hence there is no need for a new textile policy. While referring to TUF (Textiles Up gradation Funds) Scheme, the Minister explained that though the previ- ous government was making announcement of various schemes but not enough provision of funds for such schemes was made. Hence the financial burden of un- paid incentives of previous government has to be met by the present government. She further said that after the tough period during Union Minister of State for Textiles Ms. Darshana V. Jardosh seen inaugurating CMAI FAB SHOW by cutting the ribbon on 11th April 2022 at Jio World Convention Centre at BKC, Mumbai. Union Minister of State for Textiles Ms. Darshana V. Jardosh seen addressing the Press Conference during the inauguration of CMAI FAB SHOW ribbon on 11th April 2022 at Jio World Convention Cen- tre at BKC, Mumbai. From left to right, Mr. Rahul Mehta, Chief Mentor – CMAI, Smt. Darshana V. Jardosh and Mr. Rajesh Masand, President – CMAI. the corona pandemic, now India is progressing well and 21st century will belong to India. The India has achieved its export targets and now the government will announce shortly the new export targets. The Minister applauded the initiative of CMAI to orga- nise this first of its kind Show bringing the entire Sup- ply Chain under one roof, and appreciated the efforts of CMAI to serve the Domestic Garment Industry and its members. Mr. Rahul Mehta, Past President and now Chief Men- tor of CMAI (THE Clothing Manufacturers Association of India) said that after the success of National Gar- ment Fairs and the recently launched Vendor Sourcing Fair, CMAI has first time organised CMAI FAB SHOW. (Fabrics, Accessories Beyond) during 11th to 13th April 2022. It has 200 participants. Visitors and buyers from 8 counties are visiting the show. The Fair has 3500 online registrations before the commencement of the Fair. More than 5,000 garment manufacturers, export- ers, retailers with private labels and traders were ex- pected to visit the fair. Mr. Rajesh Masand, President – CMAI informed that The CMAI FAB SHOW has been supported by Two of EVENT UPDATES
- 105. 105 TVC |APRIL 2022 NIFT convocation ceremony TVC Editorial Team T he formal event of the NIFT Mumbai Convoca- tion Ceremony was organized on 16th of April 2022 at Sophia Bhabha Hall of Sophia College Campus, Mumbai. The event was inaugurated by Chief Guest Mr. Piyush Goyal, Honorable Minister of Com- merce and Industry, Minister of Consumer Affairs, Food Public Distribution, Minister of Textiles, Govern- ment of India. The ceremony was graced by the august the biggest Associations in the Fabric Supply Chain – the FABEXA from Ahmedabad, and SGCCI from Surat. FABEXA, an arm of Ahmedabad’s famous MASKATI CLOTH MARKET MAHAJAN has participated with near- ly 55 of its members, bringing to The CMAI FAB Show the full might of Ahmedabad’s strength in cotton and natural based fabrics. On the other hand, SGCCI – the South Gujarat Chamber of Commerce and Industry, one of Gujarat’s most dynamic and active Industry as- sociations, has backed up this show with close to 45 of its members from Surat participating. Surat, often described as India’s answer to China in fabric devel- opment especially in the MMF based fabric category, showcased its latest developments and innovations in MMF Fabrics. A unique addition to The FAB Show was the THINK OUT OF THE BOX Section, with 4 exciting and Scintillating Seminars on a variety of Subjects covering Consumer Trends, Technological Developments, and Global Fash- ion Landscape. The speakers included some of the big- gest names in the garment Industry, along with speak- ers from Bangladesh, Turkey, and The Netherlands. The inaugural event was graced by Textile Commission- er Ms. Roop Rashi. presence of esteemed guest of honour, Mr Shantma- nu, IAS, Director General, NIFT Development Com- missioner, Handicrafts and Dean Academics NIFT, Prof. Dr. Vandana Narang. This year 627 students from the class of 2020 2021 received Undergraduate /Post Graduate Degrees from NIFT Mumbai. Director NIFT Mumbai campus presented the academ- ic report, mentioning students, faculty and academic MS. JOMTER KARLO Fashion Design Department won the Best Use of Traditional Skills in Con- temporary Styling. Her Project collection’s name is ECHO OF ARUNACHAL. The collection shows the rich culture of the state, traditional weave patterns, practice of the Loin Loom, Importance of Sustainable Fashion and is focused on introducing modern Silhouettes and styles that hav- en’t been explored yet.
- 106. 106 TVC |APRIL 2022 achievements of NIFT Mumbai. It was followed by an address by DG NIFT. He was talking about hybrid class- es so that it reaches to a larger audience. He was mo- tivating students to develop positive habits and make role models whom they can emulate helping in their personal and professional growth. Dean NIFT administered the pledge to both the grad- uating batches. Honourable minister Mr Piyush Goyal addressed the students greatly motivating them. He said that India had great expectations of the graduates. When they went abroad to study or for business, they should carry the India story. As ambassadors of NIFT and India they should make India the Fashion capital of the world. “It is an achievable dream”, he said since India has the wherewithal of exquisite craft, skills and an aesthetic sensibility to make this happen. He said, “Each graduate should spend time with clusters and ar- tisans, help upskilling them and have a concrete target of increasing their income by at least Rs. 1000 a month. More than 50 awards were given away for Graduation projects. The Graduation Projects in the area of Ap- parel design, system design, Game design, Visual Mer- chandizing, User Experience Design, Graphic Design, Garment Value Chain, Travel gear. The GPs were done in companies like The Great Eastern Home, Rynox Gear, Bonito Design, Boingg kids wear, Aditya Birla Fashion and Retail Limited (Pantaloons), PVH Arvind Fashion Ltd (Tommy Hilfiger and Calvin, Welspun Group, Myntra, Raymond, Bombay Shirt, Liva by ABFRL, Bestsellers-Ve- ra Moda, Reliance Retail Fashion and Lifestyle Sunaina Khetan, a student of Fashion Design Department NIFT Mumbai, has designed a garment focusing on sustainability and reusability. All elements of the collection are detachable, can be mixed, and matched to create numerous looks. To minimize fabric waste, the leftover fabric after cutting of the patterns is used in diverse ways for surface embellishment and trims. All the fabrics used are completely organic and biodegradable. Because of her unique concept and execution, she won the best design collection award.
- 107. 107 TVC |APRIL 2022 7 INNOVATORS JOIN FASHION FOR GOOD’S 2022 ASIA INNOVATION PROGRAMME TVC Editorial Team F ashion for Good has announced seven new in- novators selected to participate in its 2022 Asia Innovation Programme. Chosen by Fashion for Good brand and manufacturing partners during a hy- brid digital / in-person event in Mumbai from a group of innovators, the nine-month programme provides the participants with tailored support to help them scale - matching the innovators with relevant indus- try partners to drive piloting, implementation, and in- vesting activities. The selected innovators joining the Fashion for Good 2022 Asia Innovation Programme are: Picvisa, Gaiacel, AN Herbals, Fermentech Labs, Sodhani Biotech, Vaayu and UKHI Hemp Foundation. “We are extremely excited to kick off our third year in Asia and continue to generate tangible impact in the region with the addition of these seven new innova- tions. By providing them with a platform to learn and grow, and connecting them with leading industry play- ers, the programme offers an opportunity to drive the implementation of their solutions in the supply chain at scale.” - Priyanka Khanna, Head of Asia Expansion at Fashion for Good. Focusing on processing, one of the most impactful steps in the value chain, this year’s selection of inno- vators are developing technologies with the potential for positive disruption within this area in the Asia re- gion. Innovators AN Herbals, Fermentech Labs, Gaiacel and Sodhani Biotech, are developing unique solutions in dyeing, pretreatment and finishing from plant, for- est and agricultural waste using technologies such as bioprocessing, nanocellulose and microorganisms. The remaining innovators present pioneering innovations in raw materials, impact and end-of-use, with UKHI Hemp Foundation exploring alternative materials from hemp, Vaayu tracking carbon impact through the value chain, and Picvisa enabling the recapture of value from existing materials. As with previous selections, these innovators receive bespoke support based on the immediate requirement of each innovator to scale, as well as exposure to cor- porate partners and industry ecosystem players vital to their continued growth and development. The seven new innovators mark the fourth selection of innova- tors to participate in the Asia Innovation Programme since establishing a presence in Asia in 2020, which has supported a total of 28 innovators through the Programme. CREDIT: FASHION FOR GOOD FASHION FOR GOOD
- 108. 108 TVC |APRIL 2022 About the innovators AN HERBALS (INDIA) An Herbals has a patented circular herbal dye ex- traction, herbal dyeing and bioprocessing technology, that converts waste from the forest, food and ayurve- dic medicine industries to dyes that are non-toxic with self-binding, antiviral, antimicrobial, antifungal, anti odour, UV resistant and mosquito repellent properties for up to 50 washes in all textiles. FERMENTECH LABS (INDIA) Fermentech Labs is addressing the disposal of agri- cultural and forest residues, such as straw, peels and pine needles, through a patented biotechnology using microorganisms. They convert organic waste, other- wise destined for incineration, into industrial enzymes that are used for textile bio-polishing, desizing and bio-scouring. Along with reducing environmental car- bon footprint, collecting these sustainable feedstocks ensures farmers have an alternative income stream. GAIACEL (USA) Gaiacel develops a novel dyeing innovation to make in- dustrial rope and slasher dyeing processes sustainable and cost-effective. Their patented nanocellulose hy- drogel along with dye particles sticks to textile surfaces and eliminates the need for multiple dipping, indigo reduction and additional chemicals. The process is less water and energy intensive compared to conventional indigo dyeing. PICVISA (SPAIN) PICVISA is an innovative technology-based company that designs, manufactures and supplies optical sort- ing and separation equipment to recover and grade textiles. PICVISA offers advanced solutions based on robotics, artificial intelligence and vision that can clas- sify textile, fully customised to the clients needs, by its composition and colour in an efficient and automated way. SODHANI BIOTECH (INDIA) Sodhani Biotech produces non-toxic chemical free natural dyes and colours from plants, plant waste and microorganisms. They produce 16 natural dye extracts using optimised extraction processes that have result- ed in better yields, a wider range of shades, better wa- ter solubility and good colour fastness for printing and dyeing applications. UKHI HEMP FOUNDATION (INDIA) UKHI Hemp Foundation is a farm-to-market compa- ny, producing more than five hundred products from hemp, including hemp textiles, papers, bioplastics, composite, food products and medicines. They im- prove farmer and artisan livelihoods by training them to cultivate hemp and produce fabrics with higher hemp content using improvised fibre extraction pro- cesses. VAAYU (GERMANY) Vaayu is the world’s first automated carbon-tracking software for retailers, enabling businesses to reduce their footprint by providing accessible, real-time data to drive carbon-reduction at scale. By integrating with point-of-sale systems, such as Shopify, and leveraging proprietary AI and machine learning technology, Vaayu draws insights from production, sales and logistics to deliver a tangible solution in the fight against climate change and a more sustainable future for retail. ABOUT FASHION FOR GOOD Fashion for Good is the global platform for innovation. At its core is the Global and Asia Innovation Programme that supports disruptive innovators on their journey to scale, providing hands-on project management, ac- cess to funding and expertise, and collaborations with brands and manufacturers to accelerate supply chain implementation. To activate individuals and industry alike, Fashion for Good houses the world’s first interactive museum dedicated to sustainable fashion and innovation to inform and empower people from across the world and creates open-source resources to action change. Fashion for Good’s programmes are supported by founding partner Laudes Foundation, co-founder Wil- liam McDonough and corporate partners adidas, CA, CHANEL, BESTSELLER, Kering, Levi Strauss Co., Otto Group, PVH Corp., Stella McCartney, Target and Zalan- do, and affiliate and regional partners Arvind, Birla Cel- lulose, Norrøna, Pangaia, Reformation, Teijin Frontier, Vivobarefoot, Welspun and W. L. Gore Associates. Website: www.fashionforgood.com
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- 110. 110 TVC |APRIL 2022 India - Man Made Fiber EXPORTS Product Feb-21 Feb-22 Jan-Feb 2021 Jan - Feb 2022 % Change POLYESTER Staple Fibre 23.31 32.77 44.06 71.71 62.76 Filament Yarn 55.42 66.4 106.49 144.51 35.70 ACRYLIC Staple Fibre 0.78 1.57 2.47 3.7 49.80 NYLON Filament Yarn 1.58 2.38 2.86 4.71 64.69 VISCOSE Staple Fibre 11.23 21.52 21.8 42.74 96.06 Filament Yarn 2.79 2.93 5.73 5.67 -1.05 IMPORTS Commodity Feb-21 Feb-22 Jan-Feb 2021 Jan - Feb 2022 % Change POLYESTER Staple Fibre 10.15 9.49 20.69 19.25 -6.96 Filament Yarn 9.81 12.16 20.94 25.78 23.11 ACRYLIC Staple Fibre 10.27 6.67 17.45 15.98 -8.42 NYLON Filament Yarn 1.63 1.41 3.81 2.94 -22.83 VISCOSE Staple Fibre 11.62 16.73 24.36 34.61 42.08 Filament Yarn 15.61 19.01 37.51 56.39 50.33 MMF report
- 111. 111 TVC |APRIL 2022 INDIA’S EXPORTS OF KNITTED FABRIC WITNESS A HIKE TVC Editorial Team Knitted fabric is a textile that results from knitting, the process of inter-looping of yarns or inter-mesh- ing of loops. Its properties are distinct from woven fabric in that it is more flexible and can be more read- ily constructed into smaller pieces, making it ideal for socks and hats. There are two basic varieties of knit fabric: weft-knit and warp-knit fabric. Warp-knitted fabrics such as tricot and milanese are resistant to runs, and are common- ly used in lingerie. Weft-knit fabrics are easier to make and more common. When cut, they will unravel (run) unless repaired. Warp-knit fabrics are resistant to runs and relative- ly easy to sew. Raschel lace—the most common type of machine made lace—is a warp knit fabric but using many more guide-bars than the usual machines which mostly have three or four bars. A-Exports of Pile fabric knit or crochet With knitted product report for processing fabric, knit or crochet worth is 3.15 million USD by Jan-Feb 2021 (R) and export is increased by US$9.19 million in Jan- Feb 2022 (F) and had an annual growth of the exports increased by 191.35%. B-Exports of knit or crochet fabric, nes With exports of knit or crochet fabric, nes worth is US$0.94 million by Jan-Feb 2021 (R) and export is de- creased by 0.85 million USD in Jan-Feb 2022 (F) and had an annual growth of the exports decreased by -10.07. C-Exports of Knitted or crocheted fabrics of a width not exceeding 30 cm With exports of knit or crochet fabric, nes worth is US$0.18 million by Jan-Feb 2021 (R) and export is in- creased by 0.33 million USD in Jan-Feb 2022 (F) and had an annual growth of the exports increased by 88.94. D-Exports of Knitted or crocheted fabrics of a width ex- ceeding 30 cm With exports of knit or crochet fabric, nes worth is US$18.69 million by Jan-Feb 2021 (R) and export is in- creased by US$24.28 million in Jan-Feb 2022 (F) and had an annual growth of the exports increased by 29.9. E-Exports of Warp knit fabrics (including those made on galloon knitting machines) With exports of knit or crochet fabric, nes worth is US$2.85 million by Jan-Feb 2021 (R) and export is in- creased by US$3.37 million in Jan-Feb 2022 (F) and had an annual growth of the exports increased by 18.12. F-Exports of other knitted or crocheted fabrics With exports of knit or crochet fabric, nes worth is US$63.74 million by Jan-Feb 2021 (R) and export is in- creased by US$111.68 million in Jan-Feb 2022 (F) and had an annual growth of the exports increased by 75.22. Commodity Jan-Feb 2021 (R) Jan-Feb 2022 (F) %Growth A-Pile fabric, knit or crochet 3.15 9.19 191.35 B- knit or crochet fabric, nes 0.94 0.85 -10.07 C- Knitted or crocheted fabrics of a width not exceeding 30 cm 0.18 0.33 88.94 D- Knitted or crocheted fabrics of a width exceed- ing 30 cm 18.69 24.28 29.9 E-Warp knit fabrics (in- cluding those made on galloon knitting machines) 2.85 3.37 18.12 F-OTHER KNITTED OR CROCHETED FABRICS 63.74 111.68 75.22 market report
- 112. 112 TVC |APRIL 2022 INDIA’S EXPORTS OF BED, TABLE, TOILET KITCHEN LINENS WITNESS A HIKE TVC Editorial Team F or the most, the question of ‘what is bed linen” can be answered quite simply, however, the clear- est meaning will be, the covering of any bed top or mattress. The history of bed linen dates back to 3000 BC when the Kings of Egypt will raise their beds from the floor and decorate their bed top with rich, high-quality linen. The Roman Empire also used bed linen, their mattresses were stuffed with feathers and the top of the bed was decorated with different paint- ings, gold, silver, and bronze. Throughout the ages bed linen has evolved to what we have now, and they are used by everyone. Moreover, bed linens were first cre- ated with a centre stitch on a rectangular fabric. Today, our linens come with hems, at the bottom and top. Table linen is any piece of cloth used to preserve and protect your dining table. Table linens are used to make sure any food or liquid spills are caught by the cloth, and the table linens are washed after every meal to keep them looking neat and clean. Table lin- ens include accessories such as table cloths, table nap- kins, table runners, table placemats, and more. Table linens are a really important part of hosting guests, too, as table linens give off the vibe that you are well prepared to serve, and that you are not at all stingy when it comes to these luxuries. Linens for use in the bathroom. bath mat - a heavy towel or mat to stand on while drying yourself after a bath. The kitchen lin- en sets includes-Aprons, Napkins, Oven Gloves Pot holders. Microwaveable bread baskets, heat proof padded oven mittens. A-Export of Toilet linen and kitchen linen, of terry towelling/similar terry fabrics, of cotton With Export of toilet linen and kitchen linen, of ter- ry towelling/similar terry fabrics,of cotton worth is US$220.53 million by Jan-Feb 2021 (R) and export is decreased by US$154.93 million in Jan-Feb 2022 (F) and had an annual growth of the exports decreased by -29.75%. B- Export of other bed linen of cotton With Export of other bed linen of cotton worth is US$53.26 million by Jan-Feb 2021 (R) and export is increased by US$156.26 million in Jan-Feb 2022 (F) and had an annual growth of the exports increased by 193.36%. C- Export of other bed linen of cotton, printed With Export of other bed linen of cotton worth is US$7.15 million by Jan-Feb 2021 (R) and export is in- creased by US$19.88 million in Jan-Feb 2022 (F) and had an annual growth of the exports increased by 177.86%. D- Export of Table linen, knitted or crocheted With Export of Table linen, knitted or crocheted worth is US$8.72 million by Jan-Feb 2021 (R) and export is de- creased by US$8.14 million in Jan-Feb 2022 (F) and had an annual growth of the exports decreased by -6.63%. E- Export of Bed linen, knitted or crocheted With Export of Bed linen, knitted or crocheted worth is US$8.07 million by Jan-Feb 2021 (R) and export is de- market report
- 113. 113 TVC |APRIL 2022 creased by US$7.25 million in Jan-Feb 2022 (F) and had an annual growth of the exports decreased by -10.17 %. F- Export of Other bed linen of other textile materials With Export of Other bed linen of other textile mate- rials worth is US$5.03 million by Jan-Feb 2021 (R) and export is increased by US$5.64 million in Jan-Feb 2022 (F) and had an annual growth of the exports increased by 12.25%. G- Export of other linen of cotton With Export of other linen of cotton worth is US$5.74 million by Jan-Feb 2021 (R) and export decreased by US$4.46million in Jan-Feb 2022 (F) and had an annual growth of the exports decreased by -22.3%. H-Export of other table linen of cotton With Export of other linen of cotton worth is US$2.94 million by Jan-Feb 2021 (R) and export decreased by US$2.85 million in Jan-Feb 2022 (F) and had an annual growth of the exports decreased by -2.85%. I- Export of printed bed linen of man-made fibres With Export of printed bed linen of man-made fibres worth is 2.68 million USD by Jan-Feb 2021 (R) and ex- port decreased by 1.73 million USD in Jan-Feb 2022 (F) and had an annual growth of the exports decreased by -35.36%. J- Export of other bed linen of man-made fibres With Export of other bed linen of man-made fibres worth is US$1.6 million by Jan-Feb 2021 (R) and ex- port is increased by US$3.69 million in Jan-Feb 2022 (F) and had an annual growth of the exports increased by 130.51%. K- Export of other table linen of other textile materi- al With Export of other bed linen of man-made fibres worth is US$1.33 million by Jan-Feb 2021 (R) and ex- port decreased by US$1.22 million in Jan-Feb 2022 (F) and had an annual growth of the exports decreased by -8.08%. L- Export of other linen of other textile materials With Export of other bed linen of man-made fibres worth is US$2.29 million by Jan-Feb 2021 (R) and ex- port decreased by US$1.55 million in Jan-Feb 2022 (F) and had an annual growth of the exports decreased by -32.2%. M- Export of other linen of man-made fibres With Export of other bed linen of man-made fibres worth is US$0.26 million by Jan-Feb 2021 (R) and ex- port increased by US$1.79 million in Jan-Feb 2022 (F) and had an annual growth of the exports increased by 583.18%. N- Export of printed bed linen of other textile materi- als With Export of other bed linen of man-made fibres worth is US$0.21million by Jan-Feb 2021 (R) and ex- port is increased by US$0.49million in Jan-Feb 2022 (F) and had an annual growth of the exports increased by 128.47%. O- Export of other table linen of man-made fibres With Export of other bed linen of man-made fibres worth is US$0.07million by Jan-Feb 2021 (R) and ex- port increased by US$0.27million in Jan-Feb 2022 (F) and had an annual growth of the exports increased by 305.99%. Commodity Jan-Feb 2021 (R) Jan-Feb 2022 (F) %Growth A 220.53 154.93 -29.75 B 53.26 156.26 193.36 C 7.15 19.88 177.86 D 8.72 8.14 -6.63 E 8.07 7.25 -10.17 F 5.03 5.64 12.25 G 5.74 4.46 -22.3 H 2.94 2.85 -2.85 I 2.68 1.73 -35.36 J 1.6 3.69 130.51 K 1.33 1.22 -8.08 L 2.29 1.55 -32.2 M 0.26 1.79 583.18 N 0.21 0.49 128.47 O 0.07 0.27 305.99
- 114. 114 TVC |APRIL 2022 May 2022 2nd SUSTAINABLE TECHNOLOGIES FOR TECHNICAL TEXTILES WEBINAR https://www.vdma.org/en/ 5th-7th YARNEX/ FA Show/ Denim Expo Mumbai, India https://textilefairsindia.com/ 09th-11th International Apparel and Textile Fair Dubai, UAE https://www.internationalappare landtextilefair.com/ 12th-14th GARTEX Mumbai, India https://www.gartexindia.com/ 13th Sustainable Solutions Garment Manu facturers MUMBAI https://sdc.org.uk/event/sustain able-solutions-garment-manufac turers/ 13th THE DENIM MARKET SUS TAIN ABILITY FUTURE POSSIBILITIES CONFERENCE https://www.denimshow.com/ 14th-17th Domotex Gaziantep, Turkey https://www.domotexturkey. com/en 17th-19th Techtextil North America 2022 Atlanta, USA https://us.messefrankfurt.com/at lanta/en.html 17th-21th HOMETEX Istanbul, Turkey https://hometex.com.tr/en/ events/ 31th -03rd FESPA GLOBAL PRINT EXPO 2022 BERLIN,GERMANY https://www.fespa.com/en/ events/2022/fespa-glob al-print-expo-2022 show calendar
- 115. 115 TVC |APRIL 2022 NONWOVEN TECH ASIA INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION CONFERENCE th 8 EDITION 23 24 25 SEPTEMBER 2022 Pragati Maidan, Delhi, India Exclusive Exhibition on Nonwoven Hygiene Industries STALL NOW BOOK YOUR Supported By Industry Support Sponsored By Exclusive Stall Designing Partner Supported By Organized By +91 91734 40725 sales@nonwoventechasia.com www.nonwoventechasia.com
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- 123. Supplier of : Weare Glossy Group of companies located in Gujarat (India)... Well known, government recognised export house for Raw Cotton, Yarn and Fabric from India. For Cotton, we annually exports around 800,000 bales (approx 130,000 mt). Our own ginning capcity per day is more than 600 mt. For Yarn, we supply count ranges from Ne 10s to 40s, in Carded, Combed, and Open End, for Knitting and Weaving Both In fabric we deals in both Knitted and weaving, Greige and Finished for Garment Manufacturing. MR. VIPUL GHODASARA MOBILE NO. - +91-9825032838 EMAIL - VIPUL@GLOSSY.IN MR. KEVAL VARA MOBILE NO. - +91-7567999994 EMAIL - KEVAL@GLOSSY.IN MR. HARSH SARADAVA MOBILE NO. - +91-9033369068 EMAIL - GLOSSYTEXTILE@GMAIL.COM CONTACT US www.glossy.in
- 124. 70 TVC |Jan 2022 Full Page Advertisement in E-Magazine Banner on www.textilevaluechain.in Home Page Social Media Promotion in TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN Customised Email Marketing Banner in Weekly Newsletter Online Directory Listing in www.textilevaluechain.in Recruitment Solution through Job Portal www.textileappareljobs.com (365 days) G O D I G I T A L W I T H U S MD. TANWEER +91 9167986305, SALES@TEXTILEVALUECHAIN.COM LET YOUR BUSINESS WORKS DIGITALLY INVEST TIME PRODUCTIVELY