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APRIL 2022 cotton crisis
INTERVIEWS
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70 TVC | MARCH 2022
7 TVC | APRIL 2022
13 TVC | APRIL 2022
Table
of
COVER STORY
KNITTING IN SURAT
INTERVIEW
SMART FIBRES
MMF & TECHNICAL TEXTILES
DOUBLE MASK
SETU - INDUSTRY PROJECT
CORPORATE NEWS
CONTENT
YARN REPORT
E-COMMERCE TRENDS
86 11 most important e-commerce trends
of 2022-2023
84 Yarn bazar report
56
52
46
26
81
Data-based yield improvement: Uster
automatic fabric inspection leads the
way to the future
61 Gujarat turning into vibrant hub of
textiles: Anil Rajvanshi
34 Mask, Protect it!
73 US$65 billion scope in textile exports
73 Mag Accutrash in Bremen Institute
56 Sustainability is at the heart of our
every move: Sammir Dattani
52 Usha international is increasing foot-
print in East: P.K. Sahni
78 Pratibha Syntex’s Greenfield project for
sustainable textiles
77 STOLL launches new “WONDERFUL”
trend collection
75 Catering for diversity – Monforts at
Techtextil North America
26 Overview of smart fibres
31 Major Global Trends: Technical Textile &
MMF
67 “Dynamic shift in textile industry with
focus on self-reliance” Dr. Suman Mundkur
64 We bring fresh fusion themes every
2 weeks: Nidhi Yadav of AKS
46 “Gimatex always focuses on cotton
value addition”
43 Latest trend in knitting industry
in Surat
37 SETU: Mission & Goals
24 Cyclic change behind cotton rise: Ma-
hesh Maheshwari
23 “Industry may go for more blends”
18 CAI chief sees huge correction in price
after August
17 Customs duty off as cotton spins out of
control!
17
14 TVC | APRIL 2022
FASHION
EVENTS UPDATES
MARKET REPORTS
ADVERTISER INDEX
Table
of
CONTENT
99
93 Gujrat chamber of commerce and in-
dustry : Textile leadership conclave 2022
105
95
Page 116: IGM
Page 115: NON WOVEN TECH
Page 109: CNR
Page 90: COSMOS
Page 85: BISHNU EXPORT
Page 83: UNITECH TEXMACH
Page 74: TEX FAB ENGINEERS
Page 63: KEN INDIA
Page 55: ALLIANCE FIBER
Page 80: OMAX
Page 72: SAKTHI INDUSTRIES
Page 60: VATSAL EXPORT
Page 51: AMRITLAKSHMI
Page 45: RAMKRISHA SPINTEX
Page 42: ATE - PROCESSING
Page 36: USTER
Page 33: MEERA INDUSTRIES
Page 30: SAURER
Page 25: SHAHLON SYNTHETICS
Page 16: YASH MACHINES
Page 12: ITM
Page 11: WELLKNOWN
Page 10: LRT
Page 9: GSCS
Page 8: GARTEX- MUMBAI
Page 124: TVC DIGITAL
Page 7: SIYARAM
Page 123: GLOSSY
Page 6: YARNEX MUMBAI
Page 122: KOTAK
Page 5: COLOR JET
Page 121: TEX TECH
Page 4: ASTRA TECH
Page 120: PORTUGAL
Page 3: OERLIKON
Page 119: MAG SOLVIC
Front Inside: RIMTEX
Page 118: TEXFAIR
Back Inside: RAYSIL
Page 117: INTEX
Back Page: RAYMOND
114 SHOW CALENDAR
112 India’s exports of bed, table, toilet &
kitchen linens witness a hike
111 India’s exports of knitted fabric witness
a hike
91 Denim show to showcase Indian indus-
try prowess at first Mumbai edition
107 7 innovators join Fashion for Good’s
2022 Asia Innovation Programme
105 NIFT convocation ceremony
104 EPC For technical textiles mooted
102 Smart garments for smarter living, a
webinar report
100 Globalspin Trade Conclave at WTC,
Mumbai
99 Garment Training Program for rural
community
88 Young designers of Satyam Fashion
Institute showcase women of today
95 India is yet to catch up with global
trends in technical textiles: G.V. Aras
110 MMF report
15 TVC | APRIL 2022
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Cottonpriceshavesoaredtonewheightsintherecentmonths,
with the Cotton Association of India proclaiming that all, from
farmers to traders are ‘bullish’ on the demand for cotton. Cot-
ton industry circles and traders are trading charges that the
latter is hoarding artificially pushing up the prices and the
former holding the argument that farmers are slowing down
release of cotton. The cotton textile industry’s frantic knock
at the doors of the Government and the Textiles Ministry to
apprise them about the urgent need to remove the duty on
cotton yielded results. The Government exempted all customs
duty on cotton imports till 30th September 2022. The other
key issues taken up with the officials during their meetings
included the following: Taking steps to increase production
and yield of cotton; Need to continue with the present level of
support in terms of ROSCTL and RODTEP Rates; Include Home
Textiles in the Notification permitting duty free imports of
trimmings and embellishments; Need to extend ROSCTL Rates
to items of bedding in HS-9404 and Cotton Bags in HS 4202.
In the current year, the export of cotton textiles (madeups,
fabrics, yarns, etc.) have performed exceedingly well. As we
are well aware, export of cotton textile products under the
purview of Texprocil has reached a level of US$14.8 million
during April 1, 2021 – March 21, 2022 marking an achieve-
ment of 109 per cent of the annual export target determined
at US$13.6 million for FY 2021-2022. This achievement is re-
markable as the value added Madeups and Fabrics segment
have also shown growth along with the Yarn segment, thus
contributing towards the growth of the entire sector.
India’s merchandise exports have achieved a remarkable
landmark by surpassing the level of US$400 billion for the
first time during the current financial year. The growth can
be attributed to the stellar performance by sectors including
textiles that have benefitted from a strong global recovery.
The Textiles Minister, Mr. Piyush Goyal is optimistic that the
textiles exports of US$100 billion is achievable by 2030. But
if irritants like the cotton crisis is let out of control, they may
pose a threat to such ambitious targets. Despite the extraordi-
nary trade performance, we cannot remain unmindful of the
uncertainties facing the trade and industry. One clear sign of
the changes is that the industry may be moving out of pure
cotton to blends. Man-made fibres are bound to benefit. The
cotton-based industry is left high and dry, with most of the ex-
porters from the Southern parts of India threatening to down
shutters. It’s high time industry, farmers, traders and export-
ers huddle together to find a way out of this mess.
No End in Sight to
Cotton Crisis?
CREATIVE DESIGNER
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CUSTOMS DUTY OFF AS COTTON
SPINS OUT OF CONTROL!
TVC Editorial Team
C
otton prices sent shock waves across the textile
value chain recently, throwing the entire textile
industry out of gear, which has sought the gov-
ernment’s intervention by making stock disclosures
mandatory, and taking measures to contain specu-
lation. Placating the industry for its demand to scrap
the import duty, the Government withdrew the 10%
import duty on cotton from 14th April 2022 to 30th
September 2022.
Mr. T. Rajkumar, Chairman, CITI thanked the Hon’ble
Prime Minister, Mr. Narendra Modi Ji, Hon’ble Union
Minister of Textiles, Mr. Piyush Goyal Ji, Hon’ble Union
Minister of Finance, Ms. Nirmala Sitharaman, Hon’ble
Union Minister of Agriculture & Farmers’ Welfare, Mr
Narendra Tomar Ji, Hon’ble Minister of State for Tex-
tiles & Railways, Ms.Darshana Vikram Jardosh Ji and
all the concerned senior government officials for their
kind support for withdrawing 10% import duty on Cot-
ton – 5% Basic Customs Duty (BCD) and 5% Agriculture
Infrastructure and Development Cess (AIDC), including
10% Social Welfare Cess (SWC) on both amounting to
11% import duty on cotton – from 14th April 2022 to
30th September 2022.
Mr T Rajkumar said, “it’s a welcome decision and will
help the entire textile value chain to fight not only the
Cotton-based industries are reeling under the soaring prices of the raw material, and with no
end in sight, the crisis has triggered off a series of accusations from varied interest and the
industry sending SOS to of no avail. The industry heaved a sigh of relief when the Government
finally withdrew the 10% import duty on cotton from 14th April 2022 to 30th September 2022.
steep increase in the cotton price due to the imposi-
tion of 10% customs duty on the import of cotton but
also to meet the requirement of specialty cotton (ex-
tra-long-staple cotton, organic cotton, coloured cotton,
etc.) to manufacture high-end products for their niche
markets in advanced countries”.
CITI Chairman further stated that we also apprised the
Hon’ble Ministers that as per the industry estimates,
the duty-free import will not exceed 40 lakh bales
during the current season. Moreover, it will take three
to four months’ time for the imported cotton to reach
the Indian textile mills. Since the cotton farmers have
already sold their cotton crop of present season and
are preparing for sowing for the next season, allowing
duty-free import of cotton will not at all affect the In-
cover story
18 TVC | APRIL 2022
dwindled down to below 70%, resulting in huge job
losses and a declining trend in the GST revenue.” The
Government’s decision to exempt cotton import will
boost their sentiments, and help the textile industry to
maintain their growth momentum.
CITI Chairman hoped that the T&C Industry would be
able to achieve the export target of US$ 16.96 billion
(25% increase) set for the cotton value chain and the
total textiles and clothing’s export target of US$ 47.029
billion (18% increase) set for the financial year 2022-23
CAI chief sees huge correction in price
after August
dian cotton farmers. The meetings were fruitful, and
the Hon’ble Ministers assured the delegation that their
problems will be resolved at the earliest.
Mr Rajkumar further pointed out that MSME seg-
ments, including Handloom, Powerloom, Independent
Knitting, Weaving, Processing, Garmenting and Made-
up, which accounts for over 80% of the total exports
have no access for Advance Authorization Scheme and
duty-free import of cotton. These are the worst-affect-
ed segments, and their capacity utilisation has already
Mr. Atul Ganatra, President of the Cotton Associa-
tion of India replied to a few questions from the Tex-
tile Value Chain regarding the cotton crisis:
Current situation of cotton is very fearful, every few
months cotton prices are hiked and the industry is
disturbed, what is the reason for it?
The reason for the cotton rate going up is everyone
in the trade are bullish i.e. from farmers to spinners,
due to that farmers are holding the arrivals and
bringing cotton for sale very slowly. At the same time
all the spinning mills want to buy cotton at a high-
er rate also as mills are having lower rate inventory
and if they buy the cotton at higher rate that may be
averaged out. Also, big stockists of cotton bales are
bullish, so these stocked bales are also not coming
for sale in the market easily.
How we should control this situation? Any practical
solutions?
Few reasons for the market going up are fundamen-
tal and at the same time it is also speculation. The
spinning mills lobby has put 3 demands with the tex-
tile ministry to control the cotton rates.
a. Ban of cotton trading on MCX exchange.
b. MNCs and big Indian stockists to be forced to re-
lease cotton stocks for spinning mills, otherwise put
strict stock limits.
c. Remove 11% import duty on cotton.
If the government will act on spinning mills demand
then we can see higher corrections in the cotton
market.
What is the CAI role to control price hike?
As per CAI, this year cotton production is 335 lakh
bales of 170 kg and cotton import will be around 15
lakh bales. The last year carry forward stock is 75 lakh
bales, so total arrivals will be 425 lakh bales. Against
this availability cotton consumption is 340 lakh bales
and cotton export is estimated at 45 lakh bales so
total uses will be 385 lakh bales and closing stock as
on September 30, 2022 will be 40 lakh bales. Due to
higher rate of cotton, next year we are assuming cot-
ton sowing will go up by 15 to 30% state-wise and
overall increase will be 20 to 25%.
In many places in India cotton sowing has already
started and we are assuming from August onwards
new crop arrivals will start. Once new crop arrivals
start and new season estimate of production crosses
400 lakh bales, then we may see huge corrections in
cotton prices in India.
19 TVC | APRIL 2022
with the help of availability of cotton fibre and other
raw materials at internationally competitive prices to
the Indian T&C Industry.
There is no reliable data available of cotton stocks
maintained by the kapas traders, ginners and traders.
“In the case of spinning mills, only around 40% of the
mills provide data to the office of the textile commis-
sioner. This gives the cotton traders a chance to hoard
stocks and inflating the prices artificially and take ad-
vantage of futures trading on commodity exchanges
MCX and NCDEX, says Mr. Balkrishan Sharma, Busi-
ness and Unit Head Spinning, Ginni Filaments Ltd.
“kya karun, kuch samajh nahi aa raha”. (What should I
do, not able to understand !!!)
“cotton ne kahin ka nahi chora”. (Cotton left me no-
where …!!!)
“sabko teji mein teji lagti hai aur mandi mein mandi”.
(Everyone feels Profit is Profit and Loss will be loss !!)
“koi maal bechkar khush nahi hai aur koi kharidkar
khush nahi hai”.(Few are not happy to sell the prod-
ucts, few are not happy to buy the product !!! )
“himmat jawab de rahi hai”. (Courage is the only an-
swer now !!! )
These are some of the on-the-spot reactions that sum
up the confusion, panic, fear, uncertainty and unpre-
dictability which is gripping the textile value chain at
present. Everyone is watching each other’s face and no
one seems to know as to what they should be doing.
Customers are also doing window shopping.
Cotton prices skyrocketed from ₹44,500 per candy (of
356 kg) in February 2021 to ₹90,000 per candy recently.
Notably, the government had levied the 11 per cent im-
port duty on cotton when prices were nearly half of what
they are now. “The steep increase in cotton price and its
impactonpricesofyarnsandfabricsisseverelyimpacting
the potential growth of the cotton textile value chain,”
said industry participants in a joint statement.
Cotton prices soared in a very short span of time which
is defying all the logics. On the other hand, demand
from downstream products is not in sync with increase
in cotton or yarn prices. Even in yarns, demand in
counts finer than 40 is muted. Financial year closing in
March also weighed heavily on money availability.
Some unanswered questions are:
1. Will this bullishness in cotton sustain, and if yes then
till when, is a million-dollar question?
2. Will it be easy for spinning mills to replace cotton
with other products?
3. Is there demand of alternative products other than
cotton?
4. Are the arrivals being underreported to maintain
bullishness in cotton?
5. Will there be panic buying or customers shall wait
and watch?
6. Will spinning mills be forced to close spindleage in
the times to come because of non-availability of cot-
ton?
7. Are the figures of 335 lakh bales crop size given by
CAI, right?
8. When MNCs are going to start selling 25 lakh bales
stocked with them?
9. When Government is going to allow import of cot-
ton without duty?
10. When Government is going to ban cotton trading
on MCX, at least temporarily?
The industry opines that the Government need to play
major role for ongoing price hike of cotton. Ginners,
Traders need to give clarity on stocks. Govt bodies like
CAI, CCI need to take front step, Government needs to
ask all mills, traders, ginners to share their stock details
immediately, reflecting stocks in the system should be
mandatory not by choice.
Balkrishan Sharma
20 TVC | APRIL 2022
Result of this crisis shared by industry is as follows:
• Industry will be moving from Pure cotton to Poly-
ester Cotton ( PC), Polyester Viscose ( PV) , 100 %
Polyester or any other readily available fiber like
linen, hemp etc.
• Industry once moved to other fibers, then demand
of cotton automatically reduce then cotton stocks
will be out , by that time no demand will be there
for cotton , its tricky situation.
• Industry need to wait for next crop ie in September
2022, till the time ie in 6 months industry dynamics
will change.
• Industry has stopped making counts like 10s, 20s.
Industry is moving from 24s count to 30s count,
from 15s to 35s count. coarser yarn need less cot-
ton.
• Industry can’t able to make finer count , few prod-
ucts scarcity in market which needs finer counts.
• Industry moving from Combed to Carded Yarns
, carded needs less cotton compared to combed
yarns.
• July month is very crucial , as by that time many
mills will be out of stocks of cotton. Farmer don’t
have stocks.
• Corporates like Vardhaman , Nahar will be import-
ing cotton. MNC, few corporate spinning mills will
be holding stocks.
• Waiting for rainy season , will get moisture of 6% in
season. Quantity and quality issue.
• Right now demand is 1 lac per day and available is
30000 bales per day , this huge gap , So the price is
Appx Rs. 100000 / bale for Indian cotton.
• MCX pricing 42000- 43000 per candy which is Rs.
14 to 15 higher than USA cotton.
• Stop trading to MNC stock exchange and MCX now,
till the stocks are back.
• Business runs on sentiments not facts.
Earlier in April 1, a Textile and Clothing (T&C) Indus-
try Delegation comprising Members of National Com-
mittee on Textiles and Clothing (NCTC), met the Union
Minister of Textiles, Commerce & Industry, Consum-
er Affairs and Food & Public Distribution, Mr. Piyush
Goyal, and submitted a Joint Memorandum to allow
duty-free import of cotton not only to tide over the
present crisis but also to achieve the desired target
set for the Indian T&C Industry for the financial year
2022-2023. The NCTC delegation comprised of Mr T.
Rajkumar, Chairman, Confederation of Indian Textile
Industry (CITI), Mr Narendra Goenka, Chairman, Ap-
parel Export Promotion Council (AEPC), Mr Manoj Pa-
todia, Chairman, The Cotton Textiles Export Promotion
Council (TEXPROCIL), Mr Ravi Sam, Chairman, The
Southern India Mills’ Association (SIMA), and Mr Raja
M. Shanmugham, President, Tirupur Exporters Associ-
ation (TEA).
The NCTC delegation thanked the Prime Minister and
Hon’ble Union Minister of Textiles for taking numer-
ous path-breaking and historical policy initiatives that
enabled India to achieve US$ 400 billion exports that
too prior to the scheduled deadline and making India
21 TVC | APRIL 2022
to become the fastest growing economy in the world.
The total textiles and clothing export increased from
US$29.454 billion to US$39.734 billion (estimated) and
recorded a growth of 67% in the financial year 2021-
2022 in comparison to the previous year. Similarly, the
cotton textile exports also recorded a growth of 56%
by reaching US$15.056 billion (estimated).
TheNationalCommitteeonTextilesandClothing(NCTC)
delegation apprised the Minister about the shortage of
quality cotton that the Textiles and Clothing (T&C) In-
dustry is facing at the moment on the backdrop of de-
clining domestic cotton production during the current
cotton season (around 340 lakh bales of 170 kgs each
as against 360-370 lakh bales production in the previ-
ous years) and the increased T&C Industry’s demand
for cotton (360 lakh bales as against 300 to 320 lakh
bales in the previous years) and an estimated export
of 50 lakh bales. The Industry delegation appealed to
the Union Minister of Textiles to allow the duty-free
import of cotton not only to tide over the present crisis
but also to achieve the desired target set for the Indian
T&C Industry for the financial year 2022-2023.
The NCTC delegation apprised the Minister that the
levy of 11% import duty on cotton is affecting the
global competitiveness of the Indian T&C Industry, as
the cotton traders are adopting an import parity pric-
ing policy. They also apprised the Minister from Jan-
uary 2022, the Indian cotton price is ruling Rs.15/- to
Rs.20/- per kg higher than the international price. The
T&C Industry is compelled to import high quality ex-
tra-long-staple cotton, sustainable cotton, and con-
tamination free cotton by paying 11% duty to meet the
export commitments, whereas, the competing coun-
tries (Bangladesh, Vietnam, China, Pakistan, etc.) enjoy
the advantage of duty-free import of cotton.
The NCTC delegation apprised the Minister that the
steep increase in the cotton prices and shortage of
quality cotton have resulted in the cancellation of Indi-
an export orders and diversion of the same to Bangla-
desh, Vietnam, China, and Pakistan by the importers
in EU, USA, Japan, etc. They cited India’s share in US
bedlinen exports has declined from an average of 55%
during 2021 to 44.85% in the month of January 2022.
While Pakistan’s share has increased to 25.71% from
20% and China’s share increased to 19.37% from 12%
during the same period.
The NCTC delegation also pointed out that the MSME
segments, including handloom, powerloom, indepen-
dent knitting, weaving, processing, garmenting and
made-up segments that account over 80% of the ex-
ports have no access for advance authorization scheme
and duty-free import of cotton. These are the worst af-
fected segments and their capacity utilisation has al-
ready dwindled down to below 70%, resulting in huge
job losses and a declining trend in the GST revenue.
The NCTC delegation requested to the Union Minister
of Textiles that the only option left for the T&C Industry
is to allow duty-free import of cotton not only to tide
over the present crisis but also to achieve the cotton
textile’s export target of US$16.963 billion (25% in-
crease) and the total textiles and clothing’s export tar-
get of US$47.029 billion (6% increase) for the financial
year 2022-2023. The Indian T&C Industry is optimistic
to achieve this steep increase in the target if cotton is
made available to them at an internationally compet-
itive rate.
The NCTC delegation opined that the duty-free im-
port may not exceed 40 lakh bales during the current
season. Moreover, it will take three to four months’
time for the imported cotton to reach the Indian tex-
tile mills. As the cotton farmers have already sold their
cotton crop of present season and are preparing for
sowing for the next season, allowing duty-free import
of cotton will not at all affect the Indian cotton farmers.
The trade bodies have also highlighted that the spin-
ning mills were left with cotton stock of only 40 days
or (41 lakh bales each of 170 kg) as against three to
six months’ stock during any cotton season at the end
of March. Since more than 90 per cent of the cotton
crop is said to have arrived into the market during the
months of December and March, industry players are
suspecting a lack of clarity on the data. “Currently, ap-
proximately 240 lakh bales of cotton has arrived into
the market as against 320 lakh bales that should have
arrived by this time,” the industry players said pointing
out that 11 per cent import duty has emboldened the
22 TVC | APRIL 2022
traders to hoard cotton in the name of farmers, adopt
import parity pricing policy and curtail the global com-
petitiveness of the Indian textile industry.
Cotton yarn prices have risen very steeply in India and
in overseas markets in the recent past. There is a huge
shortage of yarn globally, with capacities shrinking
and acute power and labour shortages in geographies
where there is good quality spinning capacity. India
has the world’s second largest spinning capacity after
China, commanding a share of the global Cotton Yarn
market – currently producing over 4700 Mn. Kgs of
spun yarn of which over 3,400 Mn. Kgs is cotton yarn.
Cotton Yarn accounts for nearly 73% of total spun yarn
production. Indian Spinning Industry is the most mod-
ern and efficient in the world.
The world’s most renowned Indian Cotton Yarns are
available as greige, bleached, mercerized, gassed,
twisted, dyed or an endless range of fashion yarns like
mélange, stretch, blends, high twist and so on to meet
the different applications in fashion, clothing, home
textiles, hosiery, and industrial fabrics. India is the big-
gest producer of denim in the world with the world-fa-
mous brands like Arvind, Jindal, Aarvee, Pratap Spin-
tex, Etco Denim, Raymond and so on.
Today, Indian cotton yarn is widely accepted in Inter-
national markets as the exporters here regularly meet
the needs of importers with unmatched efficiency and
economy in countries like USA, Italy, Spain, Japan, Chi-
na, South Korea, Taiwan, Bangladesh, Vietnam etc.
The lockdown caused by the COVID-19 pandemic in
India and across the globe from mid-March 2020 has
created negative impact on prices and production and
thereof on the Yarn demand. Cotton yarn spinning sec-
tor is completely dependent on production and prices
of cotton. Over the past few years, not only production
of cotton decreased in India, but also its prices have
increased. Cotton production in India has reduced
from 398 lakh bales in 2013-2014 to 357 lakh bales in
2019-2020. Prices of raw cotton increased by over 10%
during the same period. This has put considerable bur-
den on the spinning industry. Price increase in cotton
yarn has not been sufficient to match the increasing
cost of raw materials and highly fluctuating cotton pric-
es. India’s domestic consumption of cotton yarn is well
below its production and its exports are also declining
(from 1,313.43 million kg in 2013-14 to 959.79 million
kg 2019-20 at a CAGR of about (-) 3%). Both low do-
mestic consumption and decline in exports are lead-
ing to surplus production of cotton yarn in the country,
which is harming the spinning industry.
Value-wise, in 2019-2020 the cotton yarn exports
declined by 29.4 per cent to US$2,760.51 from
US$3,895.52 in 2018-2019. Bangladesh, China and
Egypt remained the top three exporting countries
for India. India shipped cotton yarn worth US$590.57
million to Bangladesh in 2019-2020 (-20.03 per cent);
US$590.57 million (down 53.92 per cent) to China
and US$181.79 million (-1.11%) to Egypt. The share of
Vietnam in China’s total imports of cotton yarn has in-
creased from 7.61% in 2009 to 36.66% in 2018, while
that of India has increased from 7.75% to 21.74%
during the same period. India also faces duty challeng-
es in export markets vis-à-vis competing countries.
Pakistan and Bangladesh levy higher rates of duty on
Indian yarn, while they enjoy duty free or concessional
duty access in India. India is lagging in cotton exports
to major markets due to a duty disadvantage vis-a-vis
Bangladesh, Vietnam and Pakistan. Countries like Ban-
gladesh and Vietnam enjoy duty-free access in world’s
largest cotton yarn markets such as China.
The global cotton yarn market decreased by -2.8% to
$77.20 B in 2019, after the prominent growth recorded
in 2018 when the market value increased by 18% year-
to-year. In 2019, approx. 4.5M tonnes of cotton yarn
were imported worldwide, which is down by -3.1%
compared with the year before. The most prominent
rate of growth was recorded in 2015 with an increase
of 8.6% year-to-year. As a result, imports attained a
peak of 4.8M tonnes. In value terms, cotton yarn im-
ports dropped to $13.7B in 2019.
Looking at the increase in recent demand for yarn in
the domestic market, a lot of small spinners who had
closed during lockdown period have restarted their
mills from October 2020. National Textile Corporation
(NTC) have announced that they are restarting around
40% of their spindle capacity which has been idle since
“INDUSTRY MAY GO FOR MORE BLENDS”
In terms of sustainability, the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol®
sets a new standard for more sustainably grown cotton.
Aligned with the U.N. Sustainable Development Goals, the
Trust Protocol brings quantifiable and verifiable goals and
measurement to more sustainable cotton production and
drives continuous improvement in six key sustainability
metrics – land use, soil carbon, water management, soil
loss, greenhouse gas emissions and energy efficiency.
This is what exactly consumers are looking for and what the
U.S. cotton industry is offering.
Peush Narang
What trends do you see in coꢀon and other fibres?
the lockdown. The present situaꢁon is only a temporary phenomenon and market forces will ensure that
the demand-supply balance is restored in due course.Southern India Mills Associaꢁon (SIMA) have sent an
advisory to all Member Mills to ensure uninterrupted yarn supply to the kniꢂng and weaving sectors and
avoid undue volaꢁlity in prices.
Peush Narang, Program Representaꢁve of Coꢀon
USA replied to a couple of quesꢁons from the
Texꢁle Value Chain.
What is the future of coꢀon from the USA at a ꢁme
coꢀon is highly in demand in India?
Sales for U.S. cotton reflect strong demand. The mills want
to buy cotton which is good quality, consistent and gives
them good efficiency, and that exactly is what U.S. cotton
has been delivering for many years. Now we have a COTTON
USA SOLUTIONS™ technical team which is helping the mills
with what they can expect from the quality of U.S. cotton
and also help them plan better. Our SOLUTIONS team can
also guide them operationally in terms of what changes they
could do to improve their efficiency. Our team of
SOLUTIONS experts has created five business-building
programs, providing unmatched expertise informed by work
with over 1,500 mills in 50 countries. Our programs are
complimentary for customers who are COTTON USA™
licensees or U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol®
members.
I think the recent trend what we are seeing now is that
people are switching to blends to meet the economics. But
in India, cotton has a strong future because the industry has
full faith that cotton will remain the engine of growth in the
textile industry. The recent announcement made by the
honorable Ministry of Finance on April 13, 2022 to exempt
the import duty on cotton until Sept. 30, 2022, is a welcome
step for the textile industry. Thanks to the Indian cotton
associations and the textile associations who have
collaborated on behalf of Indian textile industry. I think mills
will be much happier as they now have access to quality U.S.
cotton and this will be good for spinners.
23 TVC | APRIL 2022
24 TVC | APRIL 2022
According to Mr. Mahesh Maheshwari , Executive Director of Nimbark Fashion Limited, the cost
of cotton is currently about Rs. 1 lakh per candy. It has been said that in commodity market , there
is a price cycle of each product and thus we see the rise of cotton prices today. “I don’t think that
cotton prices will continue to stay in this range. When this cycle ends, the cost of cotton candy will set-
tle between Rs. 60000-70000. I believe that in a few months time, we will be able to ascertain whether
the crop of cotton will continue to affect the industry or not. During 2011, the cost of cotton rose upto
Rs. 60000- 62000 which eventually came down to Rs. 32000 in a few months time. So, as it is said, his-
tory repeats itself and we can see a similar pattern today in cotton prices.” says Mr. Maheshwari, while
speaking to the Editor of the Textile Value Chain, during the cotton crisis.
Views on Current Cotton Price Crisis
Indian Textile Industry had barriers as far as the prices
were concerned, yet, today we see those barriers re-
ducing and an acceptance by the industry to this new
development. As necessity is the mother of invention,
the cotton price crisis has led to industry into diversi-
fying towards production of unique blends of cotton
and other fibers which will benefit the mills to reduce
cotton consumption and look forward for new mar-
kets. Those mills who were only dependent on cotton
production, now have an opportunity to diversify their
product range. If cotton cost has increased, parallelly
the demand of polyester has increased. When the rate
will come down as per the cycle, cotton will be in de-
mand again. There are no droughts this season, there-
fore there will not be issues in the spinning process.
One great market learning of this situation is that the
textile industry has developed acceptance to market
fluctuations whether it is yarn or fabric.
The future of Indian Textile Industry is bright. I under-
stand that in India, the consumption will be double of
what it is today by the year 2030. Owing to the growth
of India’s GDP the per capita income has increased,
leading to increase in per capita consumption, both
quality and quantity wise. In the last few years there
has been an increase in lifestyle expenditures. Once
upon a time, consumers were not concerned about
their wardrobe until the clothes were worn out, but
nowadays the trend is to change the wardrobe as per
CYCLIC CHANGE BEHIND
COTTON RISE: MAHESH
MAHESHWARI
TVC Editorial Team
seasons, mood, lifestyle, position, stage/situation in
life, etc. Due to COVID-19 lockdown, people did not
spend on clothes since they were at home and now,
post lockdown I think variety and new trends of cloth-
ing are the top priority of individuals with high dispos-
able incomes. With Government of India’s support to
textile exports, in the next five years, the growth of
export sector will also help the industry to boost rev-
enues.
Advice to Start Ups
The IndianTextile industry is a difficult industry, to start
up a new business into. Since the industry is huge,
whatever you learn, you’d still be lacking in knowledge.
Thus, new age entrepreneurs should have a learning
attitude. They should learn from experienced people,
from teams and professionals. Textile industry has huge
history ; it is not like IT industry which has bloomed in a
few years span. Thus, enter the businesses with a long
term plan and a mindset that Rome wasn’t built in a
day.
In the Textile Industry, margins are less and money
is made and earned over time. Here you cannot gain
huge margins. Net margins are are quite low. Thus to
make a mark in the industry you have to research on
market trends, focus on new developments in produc-
tion and focus on value added products, since these
are highly demanding and worth the risk. If we manage
these things, the future is bright and we can do busi-
ness in a good way.
25 TVC | APRIL 2022
3rd Floor, Dawer Chambers, Ring Road, Surat- 395 002. Gujarat, India
Phone: +91 261 4190200 / 2635541-42 | e-Mail : info@shahlon.com | Web. : www.shahlon.com
Maintaining world-class quality standards and delivering innovative products have been the foundation of
Shahlon group’s manufacturing philosophy. A system of acute quality control involving multiple tests
throughout each stage of operation is adopted, ensuring quality, efficiency and dependability of every
product.
Our wide range of yarn offerings include
Applications
Textured
We produce all types of NIM,
SIM, HIM textured and crimp
yarn, in all lustres - SD, FD as
well as BRT, using interna-
tional standard manufactur-
ing techniques.
Intermingle
Our carpet yarn offerings are
further expanded through
intermingled yarn.
Carpet
We have been exporting
various types of yarns such
as micro and high bulk to
the carpet manufacturing
industry, for products
ranging from rugs to wall to
wall carpets.
Dyed
With a capacity of producing
750 tons per month, &
world-class infrastructure,
we are well-known to meet
the dyeing needs of
international and local
markets.
Space Dyed
Adding further value to
dyed yarn, we also
manufacture and supply
polyester/ viscose
space-dyed yarn.
Weaving Furnishing Laces Tapes
Carpets
Labels
Velvet
Knitting
Government Recognized
Star Export House
26 TVC | APRIL 2022
OVERVIEW OF SMART FIBRES
Sakshi Khool
D.K.T.E’S Textile & Engineering Institute, Ichalkaranji
ABSTRACT
O
ver the past few years, smart fibres have seen tremendous growth, especially in terms of
research funding and development of start-ups. However, succeeding in reaching the con-
sumer market are a very few products. Indeed, one of the main challenges remains the lack
of standardised test methods to evaluate properties and performance of smart fibres. In this review
paper, we will talk about the history, applications, future readiness of smart fibres. Smart textiles
synonymously known as electronic textiles, e-textiles, intelligent textiles, and alike is a class of ma-
terials, where textiles play a vital role but where functionalities from other disciplines are added.
In technical textile area significant progresses have been achieved in last few years. There are many
separate and distinct fields of science and engineering. Considerable movement and convergence
has takes place between these fields of endeavour and results have been astonishing. One of these
results is Smart technology for materials and structures. Smart textiles are one of the exciting new
frontier technologies in engineering and manufacturing. Due advantages in many technologies cou-
pled with advances in textile materials and structures smart fibres are possible. Biotechnology, in-
formation technology, microelectronics, wearable computers, nanotechnology and micro electro-
mechanical machine are included in partial list.
There are three categories in which smart fibres are classified according to their function. Results in
an outcome named as smart textiles are the amalgamation of electronic components and advanced
fibres with manmade textiles extend the field of material science and digital electronics. Often even
before we do the world of fashion knows what we want to wear. Be it the trending hemlines or the
latest accessories, designers around the world predict and often create the future when it comes to
preference. Smart fibres is one thing that has been picked up by a lot of such visionary designers.
Smart fibres are created by modified textile material and miniaturised electronic devices [3].
Definition
Smart fibres and structures can be defined as mate-
rials and structures that can sense and react to envi-
ronmental conditions or stimuli , such as those from
mechanical, thermal, chemical, electrical, magnetic
or other sources. Smart fabrics have been defined as
fabrics which are defined and manufactured to include
technologies that provide to the user increased func-
tionality.
Classification
Fibres can be divided into three materials according to
Smart Fibres
27 TVC | APRIL 2022
manner of reaction, smart passive smart, active smart
and very smart materials. Sensors, actuators and con-
trolling units are three components present in materi-
als on which smart fibres are classified. These classifi-
cations are as follows:
a)Passive smart materials
Materials which can only sense to environmental con-
ditions or stimuli are called passive smart materials.
These fibres are called as first generation of smart fi-
bres. Passive smart fabric textiles still fall short of the
scope of smart fabric textile in strict sense, and should
be more accurately called functional fabric textiles.
b) Active smart materials
The materials that can sense and react to condition
or stimuli are called as active smart fibres. These are
also called as second generation of smart fibres. Shape
memory fabric textiles are examples of active smart fi-
bres.
c) Very smart materials
The materials can sense, react and adopt themselves
accordingly are called as very smart materials. They
are also called as advanced smart materials or adap-
tive smart fabric textiles.
History
STEVE MANN is known as “the father of wearable com-
puting”. He often refers to the abacus ring as one of the
first pieces of wearable technology. There were much
effort and researches on smart textiles since the mid of
1980. EU, European space agency, NASA, giant compa-
nies and industries like Adidas and industry members
are some different groups who put funds to R and D
for different end uses. Such researches are carried out
by EU, European Space Agency, government agencies,
NASA, giant companies and industries like Adidas. The
Figure 1: historical review of development of fibres
28 TVC | APRIL 2022
5. Smart apparel and footwear in fashion and sport.
6. Workplace safety and manufacturing.
Either directly from military R&D or from spin offs the
initial application of smart fibres have come. Sensing
and responding are the capabilities of smart fibres
which are responsible for this application.
Future
At present, smart textiles are one of focus topics in
multi-disciplinary research and target a great variety of
applications, smart textiles is a clear priority for the fu-
ture of textiles and clothing in developed countries. In
recent years, with development of intelligent system,
smart fibres have been widely researched.
Whether for performance or aesthetic reason, the fo-
cus within textile area is on smart fabricsfrom those
that change their hue to those that regulate body tem-
perature. Smart cothes in future could have self-heal-
ing property. Smart fibres in future will monitor our
health and help us to keep healthy and fit. The bras
can already contain heart rate sensor.
Smart textiles market has experienced tremendous
growth over the past few years in sections, such as
medical, healthcare, automotive and sport industries,
where these textiles offer significant potential for med-
ical and healthcare applications and make diagnosis far
more accurate and quicker.
Readiness of smart fibres for market
Exponential growth of interest smart and interactive
fibres has grown in last few years. With the gradual
reduction of component costs, the commercialization
aim is to initiate restructuring, strengthening and com-
mercial developments of products of smart textiles.
Around 1000 years ago, conductive threads and fabrics
have been developed which are needed to construct
E-textiles. At the end of 19th century, people develop
and grew accustomed to electric appliances, design-
ers and engineering. They begin to combine electricity
with clothing and jewel-designing. At the museum of
contemporary craft in New York City, ground breaking
exhibition called body covering was held which is fo-
cused on relationship between technology and appar-
el. The first fully animated sweatshirt was invented by
Harry Wainwright, in 1985; which consist of fibre op-
tics leads and microprocessor.
Application
Body conformal antennas for integrated radio equip-
ment into clothing, power and data transmission– a
personal area network, flexible photovoltaic integrat-
ed into textile fabrics, physiological status monitoring
to hydration and nutritional status as well as more con-
ventional heart monitoring; smart footwear to let you
know where you are and to convert and conserve en-
ergy and of course, phase change material for heating
and cooling of individual. Another application is weav-
ing of sensors into parachutes to avoid obstacles and
steer parachutes or cargo load to precise location.
Shape memory polymers have been applied to textiles
in fibres, films and foam forms, resulting in range of
high-performance fabrics and garments, especially
seagoing garments. Fibre sensors, which are capable
of measuring temperatures strain/stress, gas, biolog-
ical species and smell, are typically smart fibres that
can be directly applied to textiles. Conductive poly-
mer-based actuators have achieved very high level of
energy density.
Applications of smart fibres are as follows:
1. Medical and healthcare monitoring and diagnostics
2. Sportswear and fitness monitoring (bands)
3. Consumer electronics such as smart watches, smart
glasses and headsets.
4. Military global positioning system (GPS) trackers,
equipment (helmets) and wearable robots.
Figure 2: Applications of smart fibres in military
29 TVC | APRIL 2022
of many of the smart technologies becomes achiev-
able. The demand for intelligent materials to develop
electric textiles (e-textiles) and smart apparel is rap-
idly growing up for industrial application such as sen-
sors, electrostatic discharge, steel corrosion, electro-
magnetic interference, shielding, dust free clothing,
monitoring, military application and data transfer in
clothing and all other field [3]. Smart textiles are not
yet ready for the market at large scale, even if smart
textiles are gained a certain level of maturity [5].
Numerous fields of applications including different
trends fields in leisure and sports, some lifesavings in
health care, security and military are new developing
sectors captured by smart fibres. Printed electronics
and energy harvesting technologies are evolving to
meet the demands of new, wearable formats. A lot
of work has been performed to make washable ready
to market smart textile products and wash ability of
smart textile has gained attention now days [5].
Risks involved in using smart fabric
The obvious flip side of using smart fibres is the po-
tential misuse of their capabilities. There is also per-
manent risk of unwanted or unintended body sur-
veillance and the erosion of any remaining sense of
privacy. One of challenges for manufacturing of smart
fabric is achieving seamless and invisible integration of
electronic into fabric. Consequently, researchers need
to provide fibres with desired electronic functionality
without compromising strength, comfort and aesthet-
ic apparel [4].
This technology gives uncomforted sensing of the
wearer, and a major challenge in wearable comput-
ing is how to interconnect these components with
soft textile, and find alternatives to silicon, metal, and
components with difficult to integrate them in textile.
However, the disadvantage of this kind of textile is that
the electric component must be removed before wash-
ing and it cannot be washed with an electric machine,
and so expensive. Both the textile and electronics field
should be compliant with requirement by commercial
smart textiles.
Conclusion
Advanced material, polymers, micro-electronics, com-
puters and information technology are the areas in
which number of researches and development are
conducting. These researches are done to develop and
advancement of new materials and better commu-
nication. Textiles are also changing day by day. There
are lots of developments which include lots of appli-
cations, which make the life easy and healthy. These
products are lifesaving, have protective clothing and
importance for medical and healthcare.
References
1. Ana M Grancaric, I. j. (2018): Conductive Polymers
for Smart Textile Application, Journal of Industrial
Textiles, 612-642.
2. Asis Patnaiik, S. P. (2020): Fibres to Smart Textiles .
CRC Press.
3. Meinander, H. (2014): Smart and Intelligent Textiles
and Fibres, Textiles in Sports , 120-133.
4. S. Lam Po Tang, G. S. (2006): An Overview of Smart
Technologies for Clothing Design and Engineering.
5. International Journal of Clothing Science and Tech-
nology .
6. SU Zaman, X. T. (2018): Market Readiness of Smart
Textile Structures--Reliability and Washability, Material
Science and Engineering.
7. Tang, S. L. (n.d.).
8. Tao, X.-M. (2001): Smart Fibres, Fabrics and Clothing:
Fundamentals and Application, Woodhead Publishing
Limited.
Figure 3: Shape memory fibres
30 TVC | APRIL 2022
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Major Global Trends:
Technical Textile & MMF
With 3rd highest and competitive availability of synthetic and MMF fibres and polymers
like polyester, PP, nylons and viscose etc, India is now required to get in fast mode to up
its global presence in Technical Textiles, with target of raising its technical textiles size to
US$ 27 billion by 2026.
Shift to growing production of Technical
Textiles
With reduced post covid retail demand for wear-
able textiles and apparels, and with increased availabil-
ity of MMF and synthetic fibres of all types and includ-
ing the recycled MMF fibres; there is increasing and
expanding interest in nonwoven and technical textiles
which will lead the global T&C demand at average 7-8
% per annum vis a vis existing growth of 4-4.5%
Cotton and its erratic and unyielding prices continue
to play havoc for exports of value adding textiles and
apparels from many developing countries. With MMF
fibres share touching 30-35% in developed economies,
It’s the right time for their further growth and con-
sumption vis a vis cotton textiles.
With this New paradigm shift and present-day scenar-
io, this edition of Global Outlook focuses on India s
planned initiatives to ramp up technical textile produc-
tion and end use and also the exports to slot India once
again amid top 3 global producers.
The current level of Technical Textiles industry
in India
The global size of the technical textiles and nonwovens
industry and its trade is presently at level of US$260 to
275 billion with a growth of 8%CAGR; which is almost
double the growth rate of normal T&C sector at 4 to
4.5%. India’s share. In this fast growing and key textile
sector is presently minimal at a total of US$ 20 billion
turnover, which is less than 1% of the global size. This
is not helping India upgrade its global supplier status.
China yet remains the leader, closely followed by Eu-
rope, and will be the main engine for driving India s
MMF fibre consumption.
With 3rd highest and competitive availability of syn-
thetic and MMF fibres and polymers like polyester, PP,
nylons and viscose etc, India is now required to get in
fast mode to up its global presence in Technical Tex-
tiles, with target of raising its technical textiles size to
US$ 27 billion by 2026.
The Key drivers of this growth will be the new and in-
By Munish Tyagi
Global Textile Leader and Int`l Consultant to Technical
Textiles /Nonwovens
MMF & Technical Textiles
32 TVC | APRIL 2022
creased focus on production of speciality industrial
textiles to be end-used in hi-growth and strategic sec-
tors like the medical textiles, geotechnical textiles,
Aerospace and high-altitude end use where India is
very upbeat, the Indian Defence and civil infrastruc-
ture segments for creating high speed rail network,
new ports, new airports and tunnels and road in high
altitude areas like Kashmir, Ladakh and North East and
also including a string of new highways, etc.
It is now further endorsed that, with double the `de-
mand `growth rate versus the traditional T&C textiles,
the global textile recovery post Covid is to be led by this
new industrial textile sector led by increased availabil-
ity of MMF and synthetic fibres/filaments and growing
industrial use of `speciality` and advanced materials
based on new age fibres like Carbon, Aramide, Ceram-
ic and glass fibre, etc.
INDIA’s 4 Aces, that is 4 most impactful new policies to
help drive the production and use of technical textiles.
The Indian Government is now ready to provide to the
textile industry with its 4 new aces which will be the
key engines of growth for technical textile sector, as
also for pushing India’s global T&C share:
a. The TTDS scheme, with an outlay of Rs. 160,000
million is being launched to replace the 25-year-
old TUF scheme for incentivising the new invest-
ment in textile sector. However, the focus will be
advanced technology and such indigenous ma-
chinery development capabilities.
b. The NTTM scheme [that’s is National Technical
Textiles Mission spearheaded by Textile Ministry/
GOI] scheme, is being continued with a budget of
Rs.10,000 million for the textile industry to venture
into high tech projects in technical textiles arena.
c. The PLI or the production linked scheme is anoth-
er new mega investment scheme to rope in large
corporate and global investors into textile industry.
The PLI scheme will bring in large output produc-
tion and with focus on both MMF fibre use and
manufacturing of technical textiles. Already more
than 70 serious applications and project Intents
have been registered.
d. The launch of the MITRA scheme for development
and operations of large size or mega Textile Parks
to attract large global investment into such world
class `play n plug` manufacturing zones in different
corners of the country and ideally placed close to
the fibre production centres and seaports.
India’s competitive advantages v/s global
competitions
To be able to enhance India’s textile sector size to
US$100 billion plus by 2024, and slot itself with aver-
age of 8% share in global T&C/Tech textiles trade, India
has to emerge as leading China +1 global supplier and
lead from front using the competitive advantages such
as; Availability and access to all key raw materials and
MMF fibres,
2. However, India has to make a strong thrust into de-
velop and production of speciality fibres like carbon
fibres, Aramides, ceramic, glass and other fibres with
special focus on high tech textile end uses that are
based on `sustainability` and green issues.
3. India does have the advantage of competitive wag-
es, and yet needs to scale up for the production and
new markets.
India yet needs to address the deficiency and
critical gaps areas below
India needs to actively pursue free-trade agreements
(FTAs) with major export destinations like the EU ,and
the US to push apparel shipments amid increasing
competition from fast growing rivals like Vietnam,
Bangladesh, Turkey, Egypt, and Cambodia that enjoy
tariff concessions, under liberal duty free trade agree-
ments like GSP+ and TPT 11 and others.
India has traditionally enjoyed a comparative advan-
tage in the cotton-based textile sector, including ap-
parels, and they constitute a major chunk of India’s
export basket. However, India’s shift to MMF textiles
now has to be immediate and a serious call to enhance
its share in the global T&C trade to more than 5% and
also to take its rightful place as China+1.
Project No. Project Title Project Capacity
1 Export focussed YARN SPG
MILLS,OF 25 K spdls,for BCI/
Organic yarns,for Knttg &wvg
Approx..20 TPD
2 Cotton Yarn Mill with Ring and
OE spg,withInhouse Knitting
unit
15 to 20 TP-
D,with 5TPD
knttg.
3 3.Integrated Yarn Spg.unit of
20 TPD Ring +OE yarns with
10TPD Terry Towelunit
15 to 20 TPD
New Textile Projects _3 Nos export oriented
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33 TVC | APRIL 2022
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Mask, Protect it!
Nur Hani Aqilah Binti Salehin & Thomas P.S. Ong
Nano Textile Sdn Bhd. Email: hani@nanotextileinnovation.com
L
et us see what 2022 will start with. One obvious
thing to be sure of is wearing a mask. Malaysians
are still masking either in open places or fully vac-
cinated and obviously in crowded places too. Since
the Delta and Omicron virus has spread out through
the entire country, masking is necessary while double
masking has been one step ahead for more protection.
Double mask as a new way of life!
“In high-risk environments such as hospitals, it is rec-
ommended that you wear a double face mask and a
face shield”
“There is no need for a double face mask in public ar-
eas, but it is obligatory to wear a face mask,” said Ma-
laysian Health Director-General Tan Sri Dr Noor Hish-
am Abdullah. He recommended Malaysians take extra
precautions when visiting high-risk public places such
as hospitals as at the moment, the infection caused
by the Omicron variant of the coronavirus is rapidly
spreading throughout the world. This variant is well-
known for its high transmissibility rate, but it is not as
severe as its ancestor, the Delta variant. Nevertheless,
without hesitation and compulsion, we as Malaysians
began to take precautionary measures by wearing a
double face mask anywhere whether on the train, in
the mall, or in the cinema.
The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC)
undertook much research in January 2021 to improve
mask function and reduce COVID-19 transmission. It
was determined that ‘double-masking,’ or knotting the
ear loops of a 3-ply mask and adjusting it to fit snugly to
the face, can give more protection for the mask-wearer
and those around them.
Since there are many types of face masks that have
been designed such as N95 mask protection, KN95,
KF94, surgical mask, 3-ply disposable mask, fabric
mask, etc, there are some people who perform double
masking incorrectly. Some may just double the 3-ply
mask, while others may double the KF94 mask, result-
ing in an 8-ply mask that makes breathing difficult and
highly discouraged.
The method of double masking is simple, it involves
putting two different and correct combination types of
Source: https://www.cdc.gov/mmwr/volumes/70/wr/mm7007e1.htm?s_cid=mm7007e1_w
Double Mask
35 TVC | APRIL 2022
face masks on your face. The CDC recommends a 3-ply
disposable or surgical face mask with a cloth mask.
When double masking, it is critical to ensure that the
masks fit exactly against the sides of the face so have
no holes for air to flow inside and out.
Next level of protection
Can you picture doubling your masking while also tri-
pling your protection? It has provided you with addi-
tional protection against bacteria and some types of
viruses. Choosing a cloth mask with antibacterial prop-
erties will provide further protection. Antibacterial
characteristics are all the rage these days, and their in-
corporation into clothes and Muslimah dress has taken
it to the next level, particularly in Malaysia. Unfortu-
nately, one of the most common questions from buy-
ers before purchasing a product is, “How can we know
if this product is antibacterial?”
Yes, people will not buy the product if they’re unsure.
But there will be no loyal customer when there is no
first buyer. Hence, at the end of the day, they will buy it
with the conviction of the founder or other buyer.
This concern has been appearing in antibacterial face
mask. But, if people consider on the benefit, truly they
will purchase it. One advantage of antibacterial face
masks is that they operate as a silent defender. Wheth-
er it is a cloth mask or a disposable mask, it helps to
reduce the danger of transferring bacteria and viruses
into your hands when adjusting it. However, it is im-
portant to note that antibacterial face masks cannot
destroy the COVID-19 virus, as there is no study to sup-
port this claim.
If you wonder how an antibacterial face mask works?
Click and read at this article for more insight:
https://www.nanotextileinnovation.com/covid-19-
how-antibacterial-textile-guide-you-through-the-dark-
ness/
There are many brands in Malaysia that started to sell
the antibacterial face mask mainly for cloth mask, such
as Three Little Ahmads, CalaQisya, TudungPeople and
for disposable face mask, Yukazan is one of the anti-
bacterial face mask producers.
How to clean an antibacterial face mask?
The face mask with antibacterial characteristics on the
inside may be washed as usual. If you buy an antimi-
crobial disposable face mask, simply fold the outside
corners together and toss it in the trash. If, on the oth-
er hand, you purchase an antibacterial fabric mask, you
should gentle wash it in room temperature water with
a standard grade detergent. However, the fabric mask
can also be hand-washed but without chlorine bleach,
and the face mask can be dried by hanging damp from
a line or bar.
36 TVC | APRIL 2022
www.uster.com/qbar2
Inspecting fabrics after weaving is old school. With USTER®
Q-BAR 2, smart weavers can pinpoint
defects during fabric formation. It’s the right way to reduce material losses and minimize manual
checks. When it comes to fabric quality issues, prevention is better than cure.
The whole fabric is automatically monitored – warp, weft, selvage and leno – and faults are
identified immediately. LEDs signal defect locations to the weaver, with information shown on
the control unit touchscreen. It’s automatic inspection, in-process and instant, so weavers can
react to prevent long-running or repeating faults.
USTER®
Q-BAR 2 sets the future standard, controlling the weaving process instead of the output.
USTER
®
Q-BAR 2
Weave it right: spot defects on the loom
37 TVC | APRIL 2022
SETU: Mission & Goals
TVC Editorial Team
Abstract
The Vision of SETU is to contribute in making the Indian Engineering Industry globally
competitive. The Mission of SETU is to promote Innovation and Standardisation of all en-
gineering machinery and components; enhance Indian exports and reduce dependency
on Imports through Import substitution; and to improve global employability of Indian
manpower. The Mission of SETU is to promote Innovation and Standardisation of all en-
gineering machinery and components; enhance Indian exports and reduce dependency
on Imports through Import substitution; and to improve global employability of Indian
manpower.
Keywords: SETU, CII, FICCI, NDIM, SOP, CEFC
S
ETU known as Science, Engineering and Techno-
logical Upliftment Foundation. A Section 8 Com-
pany (Not for Profit Organisation) incorporated
under the Companies Act, 2013. Website: www.setu-
foundation.co.in. SETU Foundation is an SPV devel-
oped by Surat Engineering Vikas Association (SEVA),
Surat Textile Machinery Manufacturers’ Association (l)
(TMMA), Mumbai along with support of Department
of Heavy Industries (DHI), Ministry of Heavy Industries
& Public Enterprises, Government of India, Sardar Val-
labhbhai Patel Education Society’ (SVPES), Bardoli.
The Origin of SETU goes back to an organisation called
SEPA – Surat Engineering Professionals Association,
founded in 1996, with the purpose to engage Engi-
neering Professionals into continuous learning and
technological updating. The deliberations resulted in
the formation of SEVA – Surat Engineering Vikas Asso-
ciation registered Trust in 2008, with the aim of help-
ing Engineering industries adopt new technologies and
skill development of its workforce.
While all the leaders of these organisations were also
well connected and associated with many other pro-
fessional and business organisations like Southern
Gujarat Chamber of Commerce & Industry, All India
Electric Motor Manufacturers Association, Textile Ma-
chinery Manufacturers Association of India, All India
Lift Upliftment Federation, CII, FICCI, etc., their critical
observations and interactions with members of indus-
try and academia made them realise that Indian Engi-
neering Industry lacks global competitiveness due to
outdated technologies, unreasonable imports and un-
synchronised employee skill development. Members
of the industry also expressed concern of huge costs to
invest in latest working machinery.
This led to a vision to establish a Common Engineering
Facility Centre. However, to authenticate the dream
and the need, an organised Survey was carried out
covering 600 + varied engineering industries. The re-
sult was very promising and SEVA took the initiative to
establish Science, Engineering and Technological Up-
liftment Foundation (SETU) in 2016 with the support
of the Textile Machinery Manufacturers Association of
India. The Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel Education Society
joined this initiative by donating 2.56 acer land to es-
SETU - Industry Project
38 TVC | APRIL 2022
tablish the Common Engineering Facility Centre. Thus,
one organisation after other, led by technocrats, devel-
oped SETU Foundation with the solitary vision of mak-
ing Indian Engineering Industry globally competitive.
1.1. The Approach
We intend to achieve the objectives by becoming a
One Point Service Provider to MSMEs & Heavy Indus-
tries through: A Common Engineering Facility Centre
(CEFC) equipped with world class machineries with
latest technology; Strategic tie-ups with Technocrats,
Design Software suppliers, Academic Institutes Gov-
ernment departments, Business Associations
and related interests.
2. Methodology
2.1. Setu Activity Verticals
SETU intends to achieve the Objectives by establishing/
undertaking activities under the following verticals:
1. Product/Prototype Development Centre
2. Design Centre
3. Skill Development Centre
4. Testing & Calibration Centre
5. Heat Treatment Centre
2.2. Common engineering facility centre
Facilities Planned:
1. World Class Engineering Workshop
2. Training & Conference Facility
3. Product Exhibition Gallery
4. Testing & Calibration Centre
2.3. Strategic tie-ups
MoUs with:
1. Surati iLab (Surat intellectual and innovation Labora-
tory), Surat Municipal Corporation
2. MBI –South Korea
3. IPFC (Intellectual Property Facilitation Centre),
Ahmedabad
4. NDIM, (New Delhi Institute of Management) New
Delhi
5. Sopan Infotech -Design Centre
6. SEVA MoU with NID/NSIC/MSMEDI/etc.
7. Various Engineering Colleges
8. Industry & Professional Bodies
2.4. Professional Approach
SETU Foundation has been established to become a
fully professional organisation. To ensure that it be-
comes a System Driven Organisation, we have estab-
lished the following SOPs:
1. Administration SOP
2. Human Resource Management SOP
3. Accounts & Records Keeping SOP
4. Procurement SOP
We are now in the process of formulating Policies &
Guidelines for development of activities under each
vertical.
Conclusion
SETU is a social enterprise. The goal is to facilitate In-
dustry and academia, not to generate much financial
profit. We intend to provide a platform to raise the
standards of the industry and make it globally compet-
itive. The CEFC is a big step in the direction and is ex-
pected to benefit MSEs to utilise the facility and ensure
quality products at competitive prices.
However, more than the financial gain, focus has been
laid on the benefit to academia, industry, and the na-
tion. The nation will be benefited by better productiv-
39 TVC | APRIL 2022
ity, better employability, better quality products, en-
hanced exports, and less dependence on imports, and
will be proud to be one of the most technologically
advanced nations.
To become a true superpower, India needs an impact-
ful paradigm shift in upgrading technologies, upgrad-
ing skills, upgrading efficiencies and upgrading mind-
set. SETU aims to take a lead in this process and the
CEFC is one of its tools to do so. We need wholeheart-
ed support from various stakeholders in this massive
endeavour, thus fulfilling our collective Corporate So-
cial Responsibility and Individual Social Responsibility.
References
1) National Science Foundation (US): Directorate for
Education, and Human Resources. Shaping the future:
New expectations for undergraduate education in sci-
ence, mathematics, engineering, and technology. Vol.
1. National Science Foundation, Division of Undergrad-
uate Education, 1996.
2) Zheng, Yongnian: Technological empowerment.
Stanford University Press, 2022.
3) Zheng, Yongnian: Technological empowerment.
Stanford University Press, 2022.
4) Atkins, Daniel Ewell: Revolutionising science and
engineering through cyberinfrastructure: Report of
the National Science Foundation blue-ribbon advisory
panel on cyberinfrastructure. National Science Foun-
dation, 2003.
5) Monyooe, Lebusa, and Steve Ledwaba: “Information
and Communication Technologies for Women Empow-
erment: South Africa’s Unfinished Agenda,” Instruc-
tional Technology (2004).
40 TVC | APRIL 2022
41 TVC | APRIL 2022
42 TVC | APRIL 2022
43 TVC | APRIL 2022
LATEST TREND IN KNITTING INDUSTRY
IN SURAT
TVC Editorial Team
Towards the end of the seventeenth century, Surat began to decine as the
trade capital by virtue of many reasons like the defeat of the Mughal Em-
pire and lack of business areas and proficiency, control over the sea cours-
es by the Portuguese and challenge from Bombay (present day Mumbai)
from the East India Company. But in the 21st century Surat has emerged as
a key weaving area with the annual turnover of twist weaving area in the
city fixed at Rs1,000 crore.
S
urat, an emerging and growing city in the prov-
ince of Gujarat, is known as the material city of
Gujarat. The warp knitting sector is the country’s
biggest man-made-fibres (MMF) focus in the city. As
perrecentfigures,textileproduction in Surathasgrown
by 10% in the last 5 years, while the market for embroi-
dery has grown from an almost negligible amount to
around Rs. 30000 million over the same period.
Regardless of being new for the Surat market, the city
is now known for knitting and weaving industry. Today,
Surat has in excess of 300 twist sewing machines and
another 100 are currently under establishment. Su-
rat has already stabilised machine in knitting industry
as Circular knitting matching, Warp knitting machine,
Raschel Machine n which production range is 4500
tons per month, 6400 tons per month, 1500 tons per
month, respectively. The pattern is not restricted to
greater players, and, surprisingly, the little and medi-
um players are likewise putting resources into twist
sewing machines, however quite possibly a couple of
machines. While the homegrown market is essentially
utilising twist sewn textures in kidswear and women
articles of clothing, the worldwide business sectors are
getting for athletic apparel, underwear and specialised
Knitting in Surat
44 TVC | APRIL 2022
materials.
Almost 30 million meters of fabrics of crude texture
and 25 million meters of handled texture are delivered
in Surat every day. The city has a few materials busi-
ness sectors that exist since days of yore. Zampa Ba-
zaar, Bombay Market, JJ Textile Market and Jash Mar-
ket are among them. Katat Gam, Magdalla and Udhana
are the areas of Surat where assembling is for the most
part done. Over time, individuals from different spots
like Rajasthan and Kolkata got comfortable in Surat to
do their material business.
Warp knitted fabrics are extensively used for sports-
wear, lingerie, shoes, car seat covers, and mattresses
along with technical textiles The Surat textile industry
has grown considerably over time. One of the main
reasons behind the growth of Surat’s textile industry
is the city’s ability to adapt to changes and the latest
trends. The city is quick to respond to any changes in
the preferences of people.
The industrialists here have strong entrepreneurial
skills. Most of the traders have a fixed group of clients,
with whom they trade. Most of the business is done
on a credit basis. According to the Federation of Surat
Textile Traders Association, the industry suffered a loss
of Rs. 200 crore in 2004-05 on account of malpractices.
The industry suffered a huge loss in the floods of 2006
as well. Around 40,000 textile shops were damaged in
Surat in these floods and the total loss was reported to
be at Rs.10 crore per day. However, the city has always
been quick to rise from these setbacks.
Warp knitted fabrics are extensively used for sports-
wear, lingerie, shoes, car seat covers and mattresses
along with technical textiles like automobile filtration,
lining and pocketing mesh. Most of the units in Surat
and elsewhere manufacture better quality products
than China.
The Surat textile industry has grown
considerably over time. One of the
main reasons behind the growth of
Surat’s textile industry is the city’s
ability to adapt to changes and the
latest trends.
45 TVC | APRIL 2022
46 TVC | APRIL 2022
“Gimatex ALWAYS FOCUSES
ON COTTON VALUE ADDITION”
TVC Editorial Team
Gimatex replied to a TVC Questionnaire. Ex-
cerpts:
Mohota Group has a glorious history of over 125
years in the textile industry. Tell us about some
of the important highlights, achievements, mile-
stones during this journey. The Graph below
tells you the story so far…..
[From Left to Right: Vineet Kumar Mohota – Director (Finance),
Basant Kumar Mohota – Chairman, Prashant Kumar Mohota – MD,
Anurag Kumar Mohota – Director (Works)]
interview - Gimatex
47 TVC | APRIL 2022
According to you, how has the industry im-
proved over the last few decades?
Over the years we see that industry has significantly
improved in terms of efficiency in its processes innova-
tions for the products and delivering a cause effective
and sustainable product solution for deserving cus-
tomers. Huge improvement has taken place in terms
of finishes in various fabrics so that it can sustain and
last for longer use and as per the product application.
Technology has improved significantly where we see
machines talking to the computers and all kinds of
data availability for making quick and improved deci-
sion making.
How did you celebrate 125 years of Mohota
Group and 25 years of Gimatex? What is the
future course for the company?
On 25th of March, 2022, Gimatex celebrated its 25th
anniversary and 125 years of textile history of the Mo-
hota group. On this momentous occasion, Gimatex in-
augurated its new manufacturing facilities, namely the
10 TPD Open End Unit at Wani and the 25 TPD Spin-
ning Unit at Hinganghat Integrated Textile Park. Fur-
thermore, Gimatex also launched its Premium e-com-
merce Apparel brand ‘Minus One’ in the same event.
Various dgnitaries from across India and abroad graced
the occasion. Mr. Sanjay Jayavarthanavelu, Chairman
of Lakshmi Machine Works was the Chief Guest and
Mr. Ajay Arora, MD of D’Decor, was the guests of Hon-
our. Other prominent personalities included Kishanji
Poddar (Siyarams), Mr. Hisahiro Koketsu (MD, Toyota),
Pankaj Sarda (Jt. MD, Sarda Energy & Minerals), Man-
ish Kumar, Mr. Anil Jain, Mr. Aditya Jain and Mr. Mas-
ayuki Yamamoto among many others.
It is pertinent to note that, Gimatex’s first manufac-
turing facility in Wani started operations in 1997 and
has entered a period of constant expansions and rap-
id growth. The new Open End Unit at Wani adds yarn
manufacturing capability to manufacture recycled
fibre based fabrics. At Hinganghat Integrated Textile
Park, the new spinning facility adds further 32,000
spindles to their existing capacity of 1,68,000 spindles.
Combined, these new units also contribute to tremen-
dous employment in the local region to the tune of ad-
ditional 500 people. The dedication, integrity and pas-
sion with which all the family members have served
the company has led to the 6th generation of the Mo-
hota family to continue in the same business.
Gimatex has always focused on value addition in the
cotton sector. By launching Minus One Gimatex has
completed an integration from Cotton Fibres to Fash-
ion segment and added tremendous value to the cot-
ton lifecycle. Moreover, by using only Vidharbha cot-
ton in their products, Gimatex is supporting the local
farmers and alleviating the difficulties faced by them
in recent times. Previously, Gimatex had installed a sci-
entific cotton seed processing unit to add value to the
Cotton chain, and with Minus One they have extended
this philosophy further.
On this important occasion, Gimatex has made a com-
mitment of contributing Rs. 25 per pc sale of Minus One
Apparel & Rs. 100 per Quintal sale on GIMA WHITEGO-
LD Cotton Seed Refined Oil. This contribution will be
used for welfare of the cotton farming community.
Additionally, to mark the celebrations of the milestone
year, Gimatex has taken over the maintenance and
upkeep of the main squares, fountains and decorative
lightings of Hinganghat Town, from Subhash Chowk to
Tukdoji Chow. They also felicitated 18 staff members
who have served them for more than 35 years in a
short programme at their Club House.
Gimatex has always received great support from the
local community. Through their development activi-
ties, they have always focused on the growth of the
local areas and will continue to do so in future. As they
mark their special occasion in 2022, Gimatex wishes
that we continue to stand with them on their onward
48 TVC | APRIL 2022
journey. Sabka Saath, sabka vikaas!
Cotton and cotton yarn prices and market
have been in a flux for many months now.
How has it been for Gimatex? How have you
managed to keep margins and supplies intact
in this situation? Your advice to the industry?
Yes, the prices have skyrocketed in the last one and half
year particularly more so after the Corona Pandemic, it
has been very complicated for spinners if we consider
today’s cotton price we do not find any margin in terms
of Yarn spinning for the reason that costs have signifi-
cantly gone up in terms of labour, power as well as cost
of all other inputs. Yes, we have been able to keep
our margins only because of the right timing of fibre
purchase and ensuring that quality cotton is acquired
through our ginning operations.
A much-used statement – Weaving and processing are
the weak links in the Indian textile industry. Your views,
given that you are an integrated textile manufacturer.
Yes, definitely the downstream processes like weaving
/ knitting and their processing as well as apparels re-
main to be the weak links in the Indian textile industry.
If we see besides us ie Bangladesh, we see that they
have really developed themselves in terms of garment
manufacturing which is ensuring a pull for the back-
ward processes starting from spinning and therefore
the country is self-sufficient in itself in catering or ex-
panding in textile operations in time to come. In India
now with the aid of PLI and many other incentives
scheme like RODTEP, ROSTCL, we see some shift hap-
pening towards large scale manufacturer coming in the
field of garmenting where we need corporate entities
to make an efficient garment operation.
Any expansion, diversification plans?
Recent investment - Bela Unit for spinning 32000 Spin-
dles for Viscose & Cotton Compact yarns, Wani Unit
- Open end Unit for making PC & Cotton Coarse count
yarns (7 to 20ne), Processing Unit Ahmedabad, Dholka
- Soft Flow machines for processing of Viscose based
fabrics. Upgradation of ETP to ZLD (Zero Liquid Dis-
charge) setup, along with MEE & Sludge dryer.
Upcoming expansion - New 32,000 Spindles & new air-
jet looms 120 and weaving preparatory
How do you expect the Russia-Ukraine conflict
to impact the Indian and international textile
industry? How are you preparing to safeguard
your interests? Advice to the industry?
I am yet to exactly understand how this will impact but
given the current scenario it seems that this war is go-
ing to last pretty long and it will definitely affect the
consumer interest in European countries; therefore I
believe India’s exports to Europe will definitely get af-
fected in short term as well as long term.
Yeah, my advice to the industry in the current scenario
would only be to ensure that the customer base ex-
pands from European Nations to other alternatives like
South American and far Eastern countries as well so
that we are able to hedge our rest in case Europe or
some Western countries try to sanction India for taking
a neutral stand on Russian Ukraine conflict. You should
also try and ensure that whatever market is being cre-
ated because of China plus one policy is also garnered
by Indian operations or Indian products.
49 TVC | APRIL 2022
Gimatex, IN SILVER JUBILEE YEAR,
READY TO SPIN MORE SUCCESSES
TVC Editorial Team
It was a small beginning for Gimatex in 1997 with 25,000 spindles, and today with
a turnover of over Rs. 1600 crore, Gimatex’s integrated units are ready to spread
wings with new projects and products on all its fronts.
G
imatex Industries Pvt Ltd celebrated 25 years
of its existence recently at its plants near Nag-
pur with grandeur and pomp. The company,
which is engaged in the manufacturing of cotton yarn,
blended yarn, fabrics and cotton seeds oil, has come a
long way, its journey marked with great achievements
and landmarks.
March 25, 2022 was a grand day for Gimatex with the
inauguration of new plants and launching of new prod-
ucts. And it was at the presence of the chief guest, Mr.
Sanjay Jayavarthanavelu, CMD of Lakshmi Machine
Tools and Guest of Honour Mr. Ajay Arora apart from
a crowd of its workforce, total of which today counts
to 5000.
Gimatex Industries Pvt. Ltd. was established in 1993
and was earlier known as Rai Saheb Rekhchand Mo-
hota Spinning & Weaving Mills Limited (RSR). After the
realignment of family ownership structure in 2005, the
new entity of GitmaTex came into being. The company
has five manufacturing facilities, with four located at
Hinganghat, Yerla, Wani & Bela near Nagpur and one in
Ahmedabad. Gimatex is not only one among the oldest
and most successful companies in the textile industry
in India but has a remarkable growth potential.
Gimatex’s triumphs are on many fronts. It recorded
a turnover of over Rs. 1600 crore in 2021-2022. To-
day Gimatex is a totally integrated unit with Ginning,
Spinning, Weaving and Processing units under its roof.
Their plants are situated in the core of cotton develop-
ing belt of India which guarantees more limited lead
times and quality choice of its natural materials. The
organisation has already expanded into the area of
scientific cotton-seed processing by setting up a first
Gossypol free cotton seed protein feast plant alongside
a coordinated cotton oil treatment facility. The compa-
ny’s authorised capital stands at Rs 1500 lakh and has
75.0% paid-up capital which is Rs 1125 lakh.
Mr. Ajay Arora was welcomed by Mr. B. K. Mohota.
Mr. Ajay Arora said he has noticed the energies and en-
thusiasm in the Mohota family and their labour force
to carry on the heritage for an additional 125 years
with the equivalent energy and excitement. Mr. Sanjay
Jayavarthanavelu stated that the progress of the Mo-
hota family in the unpredictable material business has
been on account of its discipline, central and long haul
vision. Mr. B. K. Mohota in his invite address expressed
that since its beginning Gimatex has the track on a
steady extension and fast development way. Express-
ing that the material business overall and Gimatex in
particular is going through a brilliant time, Mr. Mohota
informed that from a turnover of Rs. 70 crore in 1997,
Gimatex went on to clock Rs. 1650 crore turnover in
the 2021-2022 financial year.
Corporate profile
50 TVC | APRIL 2022
Mr. Prashant Mohota stated that the general vision of
Gimatex is to give premium quality items to its insight-
ful clients by utilising most recent logical innovations
with the most aggressive way at all conceivable time.
Giving details of the two new plants, Mr. Prashant Mo-
hota informed that Gimatex has set-up another 32,000
axle turning unit having conservative cotton yarns and
its mixes (particularly cellulose) with addition of one
more 32000 shaft unit for polyester blends.
The subsequent plant is the new Open-End Unit with
most recent in material innovation with a capacity to
utilise reused strands with the most elevated level
of pollution control, he informed. Dwelling upon the
creation limits of the Gimatex, Mr. Prashant Mohota
informed that the turning limit is 2 lakh axles with a
3000 tons limit for every month. Stating that Gimatex
has continuously been on a development binge, Mr.
Vineet Mohota informed that the capital speculation
during the 2022 has been reserved at Rs. 820 crore.
The 2022-2023 turnover is projected at Rs. 1850 crore
containing Rs. 600 crore of products and equilibrium
Rs. 1250 crore of homegrown deals, he said. Mr. An-
urag Mohota said foraying into clothing area has sat-
isfied the Gimatex vision of serving the whole store
network from ‘Homestead to Fashion’.
Gimatex has primarily a large spinning capacity catering
to the variety of needs of the customers. Starting from
25000 spindles in the year 1996, today the company
has more than 100,000 spindles with utmost modern
production and testing facilities which delivers supe-
rior total value to the customer. The state-of-the-art
machines have been imported from Switzerland, Ger-
many, Japan etc. and is managed by top technocrats
in the country. Its machinery profile tops all brands:
Blow Room – LMW & Trutzschler with Automatic Bale
Plucker, Unimix, CVT; Contamination Detector – Uster
Securomat SP-S; Carding – LMW LC 300 A, LC 333 &
Trutzschler DK 800; Drawing – LMW RSB 851 & Riet-
er RSB D-35; Combing – LMW LK 250, LK 54 & Rieter
E65; Sizing / Warping – Benninger Direct & Sectional
Warping Machine, Benninger Sizing Machine; Humidi-
fication – Luwa; Looms – Toyota Airjet JAT710, Picanol
Omni Plus (with quick style change) – 125.
Gimatex has been a leading supplier of woven textile
fabrics for various industrial and consumer use. The
huge capacity and advantage of in-house spinning
makes sure that the cost and quality advantages are
transferred to the customer with on-time deliveries. Its
quality policy is to consistently meet or exceed its cus-
tomer’s expectation for quality product & performance
by continual improvement of processes & systems.
The group has carved a niche for itself by investing in
lean manufacturing processes appropriate information
technology tools & operation research tools. Further,
state-of-the-art manufacturing facility and quality
monitoring system ensures the delivery of superior to-
tal value to the customer. Its quality assurance person-
nel are well qualified & experienced in quality control
and are devoted all the time for collecting & analysing
data from online and offline quality monitoring system.
Located in the heart of cotton woven fabric process-
ing centre i.e. Ahmedabad, Gimatex Processing unit
houses modernised machinery capable of producing
innovative & quality fabric for Printing and Dyeing. Va-
riety of fabrics like Cotton, Viscose, Polyester and their
blends, for making Dress material, Suitings, Shirtings,
Bed Sheets, etc. to cater demands of Indian as well
as export markets. It is also equipped with fully mod-
ern Chemical Laboratory with testing equipment like
Computerized Colour matching, Tensile Strength Tes-
ter, Tearing Strength Tester, Laundrometer for wash-
ing, crock meter, sublimation fastness tester. Baby pad
batch dyeing machine, Sample Rotary Printing Ma-
chine, Colour Cabinet etc.
Located in the heart of cotton woven
fabric processing centre i.e. Ahmed-
abad, Gimatex Processing unit hous-
es modernised machinery capable of
producing innovative & quality fab-
ric for Printing and Dyeing.
51 TVC | APRIL 2022

Plot no. 244/25, Sajitha Complex, GIDC, Umbergaon-396171
Amritlakshmi Brand stands for its consistency  self-
researching, Designing, and Manufacturing, Selling
and After-Sale Service all under one roof with experts
capable of prompt Service to each Customer through
an excellent network of Agents.
With Amritlakshmi You are Always Ahead!!
The Oldest – The Most Experienced – Most Dependable- For Any
Yarn, Ay Loom, Any Width
◘ Warping, Sizing  Beaming Systems
Either 2 Tier (Creel to Beam System)
3 Tier (Beam to Beam System) for
Continuous Filament Yarn – Polyester
/Nylon / Viscose
◘ Direct Warper with Creel for Spun Yarn
(Cotton/ Blended, PV, PC, Jute)
◘ Multi Cylinder Sizing Machine for
Spun Yarn (Cotton/ Blended, PV, PC Jute)
◘ PLC Controlled 7-9 Motors, Inverter Driven Double Sow Box
Multi Cylinder Sizing Machine for High Speed
Shuttle less Loom  for Varieties of Yarn.
◘ Pre-Beaming (Warping) for Jute Yarn
◘ Dressing Machine (Sizing) for Jute Yarn
◘ Direct Beaming from Creel for Industrial Yarn fabric/Carpet/
Jute/Flex/PP/
Nylon Yarn/ Size Chemical Preparation Plant for Sizing.
+91 - 80800 62392 amritlakshmi@amritlakshmi.com
www.amritlakshmi.in
Range of Products
52 TVC | APRIL 2022
USHA INTERNATIONAL IS INCREASING
FOOTPRINT IN EAST: P.K. SAHNI
Ushahasbeenthemarketleaderinthesewingmachine
category for decades and is the harbinger of revival and
growth of the sewing machine industry. This enduring
leadership position has been possible because of the
company’s ability to constantly innovate, anticipate,
and even create consumer demand, said Mr. Parveen
Kumarr Sahni, President, Sewing Machines Business,
Usha International, in an exclusive interview with the
Textile Value Chain.
Excerpts:
How did COVID-19 impact the business of
your company in the last two years? How did
it manage?
While COVID-19 had an adverse impact on many busi-
nesses, for the sewing machine category it proved to
be the opposite. As consumers looked to cope with
the ‘new normal’, they invested in creative hobbies
and passions that brought joy to them as they stayed
cooped in homes shuffling between household chores
and office work. One of the hobbies that gained favour
during the pandemic-driven lockdowns was sewing,
not just for functional purposes but also as a means
of creative DIY – another trend that really saw increas-
ing popularity during this period. For countless people
across India, sewing became an enjoyable hobby, a
pleasant way to explore one’s creative potential that
also kept stress and anxiety at bay. In fact, many turned
this passion into a viable business while confined to
their homes. All of these saw a huge surge in the Do-
It-Yourself/hobby culture, giving an impetus to sewing
machine sales. Being the pioneers of the sewing ma-
chine in India, Usha realised the need of the hour –
to tutor and guide those keen on learning and honing
their sewing skills not only on how to choose the sew-
ing machine that would cater to their needs but also
how the machine works.
The wide range of sewing machines Usha offer caters
to the varying needs across new as well as experienced
hobbyists – from the basic to the really high-end –
each of which is user-friendly and enables the custom-
er to take their skills up many notches. Usha offers free
online ‘Learn  Create’ sewing tutorial videos on Ush-
aSew.com, which are easy-to-follow extensive step-by-
step demos for all consumers.
The pandemic also opened up another business verti-
cal to the sewing industry -- textile factories across the
country began to also cater to the demand for a com-
Interview- Usha International
53 TVC | APRIL 2022
pletely new category of products -- masks and PPE kits.
All of these led to an upward growth curve for house-
holds as well as industrial sewing machines.
What are the new launches in sewing ma-
chines? What is their USP?
At Usha International, we keep consumers at the core
of our business – developing products that help fulfil
their needs/aspirations thus transforming their lives.
Our aim is straightforward – to be the best at what
we do to build the category as well as the industry as
we offer products that combine the latest innovation
in design, technology, and performance. Listening to
consumer feedback and insights and their evolving
preferences, Usha International has launched a slew
of innovative, technologically advanced user-friendly
sewing machines in the last couple of years each cater-
ing to a specific audience – Quilt Magic, Design Craft,
Sew Magic, MC 8200 QCP SE, Style Stitch, and Mys-
tique and Usha Memory Craft Skyline S-9 with Artistic
Digitizer and Memory Craft 9850, Usha 6700P, Usha
Memory Craft 550E.
These machines cater to the needs of growing num-
bers across hobbyists and commercial establishments
across the country, offering a range of technological-
ly superior features to up the ante for serious sew-
ists, who want both precision control and perfection.
Equipped with Japanese technology, each of these
machines is extremely user-friendly making it easy for
consumers to take their creativity to the next level.
Additionally, all the new embroidery machines from
Usha come with the Artistic Digitizer, a user-friendly
embroidery designing software that is compatible with
both Windows and iOS, simplifying digitization of im-
ages, and enabling specialised embroidery like Stipple
fill, Net fill, Array fill, and Monogramming. These ma-
chines also allow free-motion embroidery for all tex-
tile arts, quilting, dressmaking, home furnishings, and
more. It’s the ultimate tool in the hands of the right
user, to transform the ordinary into the extraordinary,
using creativity and skill.
Give us details of the evolution of the sewing
machines industry in India – growth, trends,
and forecast.
The sewing machine industry in India has seen a renais-
sance of sorts in the last few decades with consumers
rediscovering sewing as a hobby. With the evolution of
the sewing machine from the manual black machines
of the yore, today, we have a slew of high-tech auto-
mated sewing machines catering to the varied needs
of the consumers from the simple to the complex.
This perception of sewing has undergone a transfor-
mation and the new age machines have set off a re-
vival of sewing as a life-skill, an art, a creative hobby,
and a Do-It-Yourself (DIY) trend. For Usha Internation-
al, which has been the pioneer and market leader in
the sewing machines industry in India for decades, the
growth has majorly come from developing products
that cater to the needs of ever-evolving consumers.
We are constantly learning from what customers tell
us, aspirational trends, and therefore offering products
that further grow this market. New products are de-
signed keeping in mind explicit needs to enable sewing
enthusiasts to do more i.e. stitching, embroidery, and
quilting.
In fact, we witnessed a healthy growth of approximate-
ly 15% in our sewing machines business in 2020-21 and
grew substantially in the Automatic Zig Zag (white ma-
chines) category, gaining over 65% market share in this
category in FY 20-21. As consumers continue to evolve,
our focus is to offer better and more evolved products
and engage with our consumers by creating a 360*
eco-system that offers them help in selecting the right
machine for themselves, as well as teaching sewing
skills through innovative platforms and associations.
Target markets and how much growth is con-
tributed from the specific market?
As a brand, Usha International caters to audiences
across India, agnostic of age, gender, and geography.
We offer machines suitable for kids as young as 8 years,
all the way up to senior citizens in their 70s – basically,
everyone who wants to learn, grow, create, and fur-
ther their passion for sewing.
Demography-wise, we have a very loyal and strong
customer base both in rural and urban markets across
the country. Going by recent trends that we have wit-
nessed, people in the southern region are more in-
Textile Value Chain- April 2022
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Textile Value Chain- April 2022

  • 1. V O L U M E 1 0 | I S S U E N O . 0 4 | R S 1 0 0 | P a g e s 1 2 6 I S S N N O : 2 2 7 8 - 8 9 7 2 | R N I N O : M A H E N G / 2 0 1 2 / 4 3 7 0 7 www.textilevaluechain.in Postal registration No. MNE/346/2021-23, posted at Mumbai Patrika Channel sorting office, Pantnagar, Ghatkopar (East), Mumbai - 400075 Posting date is end of month ( 29th/ 30th / 31st ) APRIL 2022 cotton crisis INTERVIEWS Gimatex/Mohota Legacy 125 Years Usha international , Mr. P.K. Sahni Sanathan Textiles, Mr. Samir Dattani SRTEPC, Mr. Anil Rajvanshi AKS, Ms. Nidhi Yadav Educationist, Dr. Suman Mundkur CUSTOMS DUTY OFF AS CUSTOMS DUTY OFF AS COTTOn SPINS COTTOn SPINS OUT OF CONTROL! OUT OF CONTROL!
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  • 3. For further information visit us at www.oerlikon.com/polymer-processing Innovation starts with Creativity “ We have been consistently inspiring the global manmade fiber industry with disruptive, sustainable innovations for over 100 years.” Georg Stausberg CEO, Oerlikon Polymer Processing Solutions As a pioneer of the manmade fiber industry founded in 1922, always oriented on the guiding stars of innovation and technology leadership within a global market environment – this is us, the Oerlikon Barmag of today. A strong entrepreneurial spirit and boundless creativity have shaped us. We are proud of our entire global workforce. The creative utilization of its experience and knowledge potential in close collaboration with high- performance partners, suppliers and services providers is the key to our sustained success. We focus on close cooperation with our customers, offering them market-oriented innovations and services. These are based on interdisciplinary, team-oriented development work and high-quality production procedures. In the future, we will continue to constantly question established processes and break down conventional procedures and ways of thinking. Because innovation starts with creativity. And we actively promote these with our multicultural and open corporate culture.
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  • 13. 13 TVC | APRIL 2022 Table of COVER STORY KNITTING IN SURAT INTERVIEW SMART FIBRES MMF & TECHNICAL TEXTILES DOUBLE MASK SETU - INDUSTRY PROJECT CORPORATE NEWS CONTENT YARN REPORT E-COMMERCE TRENDS 86 11 most important e-commerce trends of 2022-2023 84 Yarn bazar report 56 52 46 26 81 Data-based yield improvement: Uster automatic fabric inspection leads the way to the future 61 Gujarat turning into vibrant hub of textiles: Anil Rajvanshi 34 Mask, Protect it! 73 US$65 billion scope in textile exports 73 Mag Accutrash in Bremen Institute 56 Sustainability is at the heart of our every move: Sammir Dattani 52 Usha international is increasing foot- print in East: P.K. Sahni 78 Pratibha Syntex’s Greenfield project for sustainable textiles 77 STOLL launches new “WONDERFUL” trend collection 75 Catering for diversity – Monforts at Techtextil North America 26 Overview of smart fibres 31 Major Global Trends: Technical Textile & MMF 67 “Dynamic shift in textile industry with focus on self-reliance” Dr. Suman Mundkur 64 We bring fresh fusion themes every 2 weeks: Nidhi Yadav of AKS 46 “Gimatex always focuses on cotton value addition” 43 Latest trend in knitting industry in Surat 37 SETU: Mission & Goals 24 Cyclic change behind cotton rise: Ma- hesh Maheshwari 23 “Industry may go for more blends” 18 CAI chief sees huge correction in price after August 17 Customs duty off as cotton spins out of control! 17
  • 14. 14 TVC | APRIL 2022 FASHION EVENTS UPDATES MARKET REPORTS ADVERTISER INDEX Table of CONTENT 99 93 Gujrat chamber of commerce and in- dustry : Textile leadership conclave 2022 105 95 Page 116: IGM Page 115: NON WOVEN TECH Page 109: CNR Page 90: COSMOS Page 85: BISHNU EXPORT Page 83: UNITECH TEXMACH Page 74: TEX FAB ENGINEERS Page 63: KEN INDIA Page 55: ALLIANCE FIBER Page 80: OMAX Page 72: SAKTHI INDUSTRIES Page 60: VATSAL EXPORT Page 51: AMRITLAKSHMI Page 45: RAMKRISHA SPINTEX Page 42: ATE - PROCESSING Page 36: USTER Page 33: MEERA INDUSTRIES Page 30: SAURER Page 25: SHAHLON SYNTHETICS Page 16: YASH MACHINES Page 12: ITM Page 11: WELLKNOWN Page 10: LRT Page 9: GSCS Page 8: GARTEX- MUMBAI Page 124: TVC DIGITAL Page 7: SIYARAM Page 123: GLOSSY Page 6: YARNEX MUMBAI Page 122: KOTAK Page 5: COLOR JET Page 121: TEX TECH Page 4: ASTRA TECH Page 120: PORTUGAL Page 3: OERLIKON Page 119: MAG SOLVIC Front Inside: RIMTEX Page 118: TEXFAIR Back Inside: RAYSIL Page 117: INTEX Back Page: RAYMOND 114 SHOW CALENDAR 112 India’s exports of bed, table, toilet & kitchen linens witness a hike 111 India’s exports of knitted fabric witness a hike 91 Denim show to showcase Indian indus- try prowess at first Mumbai edition 107 7 innovators join Fashion for Good’s 2022 Asia Innovation Programme 105 NIFT convocation ceremony 104 EPC For technical textiles mooted 102 Smart garments for smarter living, a webinar report 100 Globalspin Trade Conclave at WTC, Mumbai 99 Garment Training Program for rural community 88 Young designers of Satyam Fashion Institute showcase women of today 95 India is yet to catch up with global trends in technical textiles: G.V. Aras 110 MMF report
  • 15. 15 TVC | APRIL 2022 All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of any of the content from this issue is prohibited without explicit written permission of the publisher. Every effort has been made to ensure and present factual and accurate information. The views expressed in the articles published in this magazine are that of the respective authors and not necessarily that of the publisher. Textile Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely errorsthatmightoccuroranystepstakenbasedintheinformationprovidedherewith. REGISTERED OFFICE: TVC MEDIA AND PROMOTION PVT. LTD. 504, Suchita Business Park, Patel Chowk, Pantnagar, Ghatkopar (East), Mumbai- 400075, Maharashtra, INDIA. Cell: +91-9769442239 Email: info@textilevaluechain.com Web: www.textilevaluechain.com Owner, Publisher, Printer and Editor - Ms. Jigna Shah Printed and Processed by her at, Impression Graphics, Gala no.13, Shivai Industrial Estate, Andheri Kurla Road, Sakinaka, And- heri (East), Mumbai 400072, Maharashtra, India. SUBSCRIPTION EDITOR AND PUBLISHER Ms. Jigna Shah EDITORIAL TEAM marketing and advertising enquiry Cottonpriceshavesoaredtonewheightsintherecentmonths, with the Cotton Association of India proclaiming that all, from farmers to traders are ‘bullish’ on the demand for cotton. Cot- ton industry circles and traders are trading charges that the latter is hoarding artificially pushing up the prices and the former holding the argument that farmers are slowing down release of cotton. The cotton textile industry’s frantic knock at the doors of the Government and the Textiles Ministry to apprise them about the urgent need to remove the duty on cotton yielded results. The Government exempted all customs duty on cotton imports till 30th September 2022. The other key issues taken up with the officials during their meetings included the following: Taking steps to increase production and yield of cotton; Need to continue with the present level of support in terms of ROSCTL and RODTEP Rates; Include Home Textiles in the Notification permitting duty free imports of trimmings and embellishments; Need to extend ROSCTL Rates to items of bedding in HS-9404 and Cotton Bags in HS 4202. In the current year, the export of cotton textiles (madeups, fabrics, yarns, etc.) have performed exceedingly well. As we are well aware, export of cotton textile products under the purview of Texprocil has reached a level of US$14.8 million during April 1, 2021 – March 21, 2022 marking an achieve- ment of 109 per cent of the annual export target determined at US$13.6 million for FY 2021-2022. This achievement is re- markable as the value added Madeups and Fabrics segment have also shown growth along with the Yarn segment, thus contributing towards the growth of the entire sector. India’s merchandise exports have achieved a remarkable landmark by surpassing the level of US$400 billion for the first time during the current financial year. The growth can be attributed to the stellar performance by sectors including textiles that have benefitted from a strong global recovery. The Textiles Minister, Mr. Piyush Goyal is optimistic that the textiles exports of US$100 billion is achievable by 2030. But if irritants like the cotton crisis is let out of control, they may pose a threat to such ambitious targets. Despite the extraordi- nary trade performance, we cannot remain unmindful of the uncertainties facing the trade and industry. One clear sign of the changes is that the industry may be moving out of pure cotton to blends. Man-made fibres are bound to benefit. The cotton-based industry is left high and dry, with most of the ex- porters from the Southern parts of India threatening to down shutters. It’s high time industry, farmers, traders and export- ers huddle together to find a way out of this mess. No End in Sight to Cotton Crisis? CREATIVE DESIGNER Ms. Poiyamozhi P S ADVISOR - EDITORIAL & MARKETING Mr. Samuel Joseph EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Ms. Neha Bisht Online Registration https://textilevaluechain.in/subscription/ Subscription Enquiry Ms. Vaibhavi Kokane +91-9869634305 ; textilevaluechain123@gmail.com Scan and Open Mohammad Tanweer +91-9167986305 sales@textilevaluechain.com
  • 16. 16 TVC | APRIL 2022 www.yashtex.com sales@yashtex.com Open Width Knits Inspection Machine Model: IOK I Inspection, Measuring & Rewinding Solutions +91 9167772065 I Knits Lycra Elastic By-stretch KEY FEATURES Designed for tensionless handling, inspection, measuring and rewinding of delicate fabrics PLC controlled synchronizing systems Variable roll compactness Roll Handling, Packing & Sorting Option to set machine parameters based on the fabric qualities For Stretch Sensitive Fabrics MACHINES FOR DELICATE FABRICS Elastic, Knits, Lycra Inspection Machine Model: IRE
  • 17. 17 TVC | APRIL 2022 CUSTOMS DUTY OFF AS COTTON SPINS OUT OF CONTROL! TVC Editorial Team C otton prices sent shock waves across the textile value chain recently, throwing the entire textile industry out of gear, which has sought the gov- ernment’s intervention by making stock disclosures mandatory, and taking measures to contain specu- lation. Placating the industry for its demand to scrap the import duty, the Government withdrew the 10% import duty on cotton from 14th April 2022 to 30th September 2022. Mr. T. Rajkumar, Chairman, CITI thanked the Hon’ble Prime Minister, Mr. Narendra Modi Ji, Hon’ble Union Minister of Textiles, Mr. Piyush Goyal Ji, Hon’ble Union Minister of Finance, Ms. Nirmala Sitharaman, Hon’ble Union Minister of Agriculture & Farmers’ Welfare, Mr Narendra Tomar Ji, Hon’ble Minister of State for Tex- tiles & Railways, Ms.Darshana Vikram Jardosh Ji and all the concerned senior government officials for their kind support for withdrawing 10% import duty on Cot- ton – 5% Basic Customs Duty (BCD) and 5% Agriculture Infrastructure and Development Cess (AIDC), including 10% Social Welfare Cess (SWC) on both amounting to 11% import duty on cotton – from 14th April 2022 to 30th September 2022. Mr T Rajkumar said, “it’s a welcome decision and will help the entire textile value chain to fight not only the Cotton-based industries are reeling under the soaring prices of the raw material, and with no end in sight, the crisis has triggered off a series of accusations from varied interest and the industry sending SOS to of no avail. The industry heaved a sigh of relief when the Government finally withdrew the 10% import duty on cotton from 14th April 2022 to 30th September 2022. steep increase in the cotton price due to the imposi- tion of 10% customs duty on the import of cotton but also to meet the requirement of specialty cotton (ex- tra-long-staple cotton, organic cotton, coloured cotton, etc.) to manufacture high-end products for their niche markets in advanced countries”. CITI Chairman further stated that we also apprised the Hon’ble Ministers that as per the industry estimates, the duty-free import will not exceed 40 lakh bales during the current season. Moreover, it will take three to four months’ time for the imported cotton to reach the Indian textile mills. Since the cotton farmers have already sold their cotton crop of present season and are preparing for sowing for the next season, allowing duty-free import of cotton will not at all affect the In- cover story
  • 18. 18 TVC | APRIL 2022 dwindled down to below 70%, resulting in huge job losses and a declining trend in the GST revenue.” The Government’s decision to exempt cotton import will boost their sentiments, and help the textile industry to maintain their growth momentum. CITI Chairman hoped that the T&C Industry would be able to achieve the export target of US$ 16.96 billion (25% increase) set for the cotton value chain and the total textiles and clothing’s export target of US$ 47.029 billion (18% increase) set for the financial year 2022-23 CAI chief sees huge correction in price after August dian cotton farmers. The meetings were fruitful, and the Hon’ble Ministers assured the delegation that their problems will be resolved at the earliest. Mr Rajkumar further pointed out that MSME seg- ments, including Handloom, Powerloom, Independent Knitting, Weaving, Processing, Garmenting and Made- up, which accounts for over 80% of the total exports have no access for Advance Authorization Scheme and duty-free import of cotton. These are the worst-affect- ed segments, and their capacity utilisation has already Mr. Atul Ganatra, President of the Cotton Associa- tion of India replied to a few questions from the Tex- tile Value Chain regarding the cotton crisis: Current situation of cotton is very fearful, every few months cotton prices are hiked and the industry is disturbed, what is the reason for it? The reason for the cotton rate going up is everyone in the trade are bullish i.e. from farmers to spinners, due to that farmers are holding the arrivals and bringing cotton for sale very slowly. At the same time all the spinning mills want to buy cotton at a high- er rate also as mills are having lower rate inventory and if they buy the cotton at higher rate that may be averaged out. Also, big stockists of cotton bales are bullish, so these stocked bales are also not coming for sale in the market easily. How we should control this situation? Any practical solutions? Few reasons for the market going up are fundamen- tal and at the same time it is also speculation. The spinning mills lobby has put 3 demands with the tex- tile ministry to control the cotton rates. a. Ban of cotton trading on MCX exchange. b. MNCs and big Indian stockists to be forced to re- lease cotton stocks for spinning mills, otherwise put strict stock limits. c. Remove 11% import duty on cotton. If the government will act on spinning mills demand then we can see higher corrections in the cotton market. What is the CAI role to control price hike? As per CAI, this year cotton production is 335 lakh bales of 170 kg and cotton import will be around 15 lakh bales. The last year carry forward stock is 75 lakh bales, so total arrivals will be 425 lakh bales. Against this availability cotton consumption is 340 lakh bales and cotton export is estimated at 45 lakh bales so total uses will be 385 lakh bales and closing stock as on September 30, 2022 will be 40 lakh bales. Due to higher rate of cotton, next year we are assuming cot- ton sowing will go up by 15 to 30% state-wise and overall increase will be 20 to 25%. In many places in India cotton sowing has already started and we are assuming from August onwards new crop arrivals will start. Once new crop arrivals start and new season estimate of production crosses 400 lakh bales, then we may see huge corrections in cotton prices in India.
  • 19. 19 TVC | APRIL 2022 with the help of availability of cotton fibre and other raw materials at internationally competitive prices to the Indian T&C Industry. There is no reliable data available of cotton stocks maintained by the kapas traders, ginners and traders. “In the case of spinning mills, only around 40% of the mills provide data to the office of the textile commis- sioner. This gives the cotton traders a chance to hoard stocks and inflating the prices artificially and take ad- vantage of futures trading on commodity exchanges MCX and NCDEX, says Mr. Balkrishan Sharma, Busi- ness and Unit Head Spinning, Ginni Filaments Ltd. “kya karun, kuch samajh nahi aa raha”. (What should I do, not able to understand !!!) “cotton ne kahin ka nahi chora”. (Cotton left me no- where …!!!) “sabko teji mein teji lagti hai aur mandi mein mandi”. (Everyone feels Profit is Profit and Loss will be loss !!) “koi maal bechkar khush nahi hai aur koi kharidkar khush nahi hai”.(Few are not happy to sell the prod- ucts, few are not happy to buy the product !!! ) “himmat jawab de rahi hai”. (Courage is the only an- swer now !!! ) These are some of the on-the-spot reactions that sum up the confusion, panic, fear, uncertainty and unpre- dictability which is gripping the textile value chain at present. Everyone is watching each other’s face and no one seems to know as to what they should be doing. Customers are also doing window shopping. Cotton prices skyrocketed from ₹44,500 per candy (of 356 kg) in February 2021 to ₹90,000 per candy recently. Notably, the government had levied the 11 per cent im- port duty on cotton when prices were nearly half of what they are now. “The steep increase in cotton price and its impactonpricesofyarnsandfabricsisseverelyimpacting the potential growth of the cotton textile value chain,” said industry participants in a joint statement. Cotton prices soared in a very short span of time which is defying all the logics. On the other hand, demand from downstream products is not in sync with increase in cotton or yarn prices. Even in yarns, demand in counts finer than 40 is muted. Financial year closing in March also weighed heavily on money availability. Some unanswered questions are: 1. Will this bullishness in cotton sustain, and if yes then till when, is a million-dollar question? 2. Will it be easy for spinning mills to replace cotton with other products? 3. Is there demand of alternative products other than cotton? 4. Are the arrivals being underreported to maintain bullishness in cotton? 5. Will there be panic buying or customers shall wait and watch? 6. Will spinning mills be forced to close spindleage in the times to come because of non-availability of cot- ton? 7. Are the figures of 335 lakh bales crop size given by CAI, right? 8. When MNCs are going to start selling 25 lakh bales stocked with them? 9. When Government is going to allow import of cot- ton without duty? 10. When Government is going to ban cotton trading on MCX, at least temporarily? The industry opines that the Government need to play major role for ongoing price hike of cotton. Ginners, Traders need to give clarity on stocks. Govt bodies like CAI, CCI need to take front step, Government needs to ask all mills, traders, ginners to share their stock details immediately, reflecting stocks in the system should be mandatory not by choice. Balkrishan Sharma
  • 20. 20 TVC | APRIL 2022 Result of this crisis shared by industry is as follows: • Industry will be moving from Pure cotton to Poly- ester Cotton ( PC), Polyester Viscose ( PV) , 100 % Polyester or any other readily available fiber like linen, hemp etc. • Industry once moved to other fibers, then demand of cotton automatically reduce then cotton stocks will be out , by that time no demand will be there for cotton , its tricky situation. • Industry need to wait for next crop ie in September 2022, till the time ie in 6 months industry dynamics will change. • Industry has stopped making counts like 10s, 20s. Industry is moving from 24s count to 30s count, from 15s to 35s count. coarser yarn need less cot- ton. • Industry can’t able to make finer count , few prod- ucts scarcity in market which needs finer counts. • Industry moving from Combed to Carded Yarns , carded needs less cotton compared to combed yarns. • July month is very crucial , as by that time many mills will be out of stocks of cotton. Farmer don’t have stocks. • Corporates like Vardhaman , Nahar will be import- ing cotton. MNC, few corporate spinning mills will be holding stocks. • Waiting for rainy season , will get moisture of 6% in season. Quantity and quality issue. • Right now demand is 1 lac per day and available is 30000 bales per day , this huge gap , So the price is Appx Rs. 100000 / bale for Indian cotton. • MCX pricing 42000- 43000 per candy which is Rs. 14 to 15 higher than USA cotton. • Stop trading to MNC stock exchange and MCX now, till the stocks are back. • Business runs on sentiments not facts. Earlier in April 1, a Textile and Clothing (T&C) Indus- try Delegation comprising Members of National Com- mittee on Textiles and Clothing (NCTC), met the Union Minister of Textiles, Commerce & Industry, Consum- er Affairs and Food & Public Distribution, Mr. Piyush Goyal, and submitted a Joint Memorandum to allow duty-free import of cotton not only to tide over the present crisis but also to achieve the desired target set for the Indian T&C Industry for the financial year 2022-2023. The NCTC delegation comprised of Mr T. Rajkumar, Chairman, Confederation of Indian Textile Industry (CITI), Mr Narendra Goenka, Chairman, Ap- parel Export Promotion Council (AEPC), Mr Manoj Pa- todia, Chairman, The Cotton Textiles Export Promotion Council (TEXPROCIL), Mr Ravi Sam, Chairman, The Southern India Mills’ Association (SIMA), and Mr Raja M. Shanmugham, President, Tirupur Exporters Associ- ation (TEA). The NCTC delegation thanked the Prime Minister and Hon’ble Union Minister of Textiles for taking numer- ous path-breaking and historical policy initiatives that enabled India to achieve US$ 400 billion exports that too prior to the scheduled deadline and making India
  • 21. 21 TVC | APRIL 2022 to become the fastest growing economy in the world. The total textiles and clothing export increased from US$29.454 billion to US$39.734 billion (estimated) and recorded a growth of 67% in the financial year 2021- 2022 in comparison to the previous year. Similarly, the cotton textile exports also recorded a growth of 56% by reaching US$15.056 billion (estimated). TheNationalCommitteeonTextilesandClothing(NCTC) delegation apprised the Minister about the shortage of quality cotton that the Textiles and Clothing (T&C) In- dustry is facing at the moment on the backdrop of de- clining domestic cotton production during the current cotton season (around 340 lakh bales of 170 kgs each as against 360-370 lakh bales production in the previ- ous years) and the increased T&C Industry’s demand for cotton (360 lakh bales as against 300 to 320 lakh bales in the previous years) and an estimated export of 50 lakh bales. The Industry delegation appealed to the Union Minister of Textiles to allow the duty-free import of cotton not only to tide over the present crisis but also to achieve the desired target set for the Indian T&C Industry for the financial year 2022-2023. The NCTC delegation apprised the Minister that the levy of 11% import duty on cotton is affecting the global competitiveness of the Indian T&C Industry, as the cotton traders are adopting an import parity pric- ing policy. They also apprised the Minister from Jan- uary 2022, the Indian cotton price is ruling Rs.15/- to Rs.20/- per kg higher than the international price. The T&C Industry is compelled to import high quality ex- tra-long-staple cotton, sustainable cotton, and con- tamination free cotton by paying 11% duty to meet the export commitments, whereas, the competing coun- tries (Bangladesh, Vietnam, China, Pakistan, etc.) enjoy the advantage of duty-free import of cotton. The NCTC delegation apprised the Minister that the steep increase in the cotton prices and shortage of quality cotton have resulted in the cancellation of Indi- an export orders and diversion of the same to Bangla- desh, Vietnam, China, and Pakistan by the importers in EU, USA, Japan, etc. They cited India’s share in US bedlinen exports has declined from an average of 55% during 2021 to 44.85% in the month of January 2022. While Pakistan’s share has increased to 25.71% from 20% and China’s share increased to 19.37% from 12% during the same period. The NCTC delegation also pointed out that the MSME segments, including handloom, powerloom, indepen- dent knitting, weaving, processing, garmenting and made-up segments that account over 80% of the ex- ports have no access for advance authorization scheme and duty-free import of cotton. These are the worst af- fected segments and their capacity utilisation has al- ready dwindled down to below 70%, resulting in huge job losses and a declining trend in the GST revenue. The NCTC delegation requested to the Union Minister of Textiles that the only option left for the T&C Industry is to allow duty-free import of cotton not only to tide over the present crisis but also to achieve the cotton textile’s export target of US$16.963 billion (25% in- crease) and the total textiles and clothing’s export tar- get of US$47.029 billion (6% increase) for the financial year 2022-2023. The Indian T&C Industry is optimistic to achieve this steep increase in the target if cotton is made available to them at an internationally compet- itive rate. The NCTC delegation opined that the duty-free im- port may not exceed 40 lakh bales during the current season. Moreover, it will take three to four months’ time for the imported cotton to reach the Indian tex- tile mills. As the cotton farmers have already sold their cotton crop of present season and are preparing for sowing for the next season, allowing duty-free import of cotton will not at all affect the Indian cotton farmers. The trade bodies have also highlighted that the spin- ning mills were left with cotton stock of only 40 days or (41 lakh bales each of 170 kg) as against three to six months’ stock during any cotton season at the end of March. Since more than 90 per cent of the cotton crop is said to have arrived into the market during the months of December and March, industry players are suspecting a lack of clarity on the data. “Currently, ap- proximately 240 lakh bales of cotton has arrived into the market as against 320 lakh bales that should have arrived by this time,” the industry players said pointing out that 11 per cent import duty has emboldened the
  • 22. 22 TVC | APRIL 2022 traders to hoard cotton in the name of farmers, adopt import parity pricing policy and curtail the global com- petitiveness of the Indian textile industry. Cotton yarn prices have risen very steeply in India and in overseas markets in the recent past. There is a huge shortage of yarn globally, with capacities shrinking and acute power and labour shortages in geographies where there is good quality spinning capacity. India has the world’s second largest spinning capacity after China, commanding a share of the global Cotton Yarn market – currently producing over 4700 Mn. Kgs of spun yarn of which over 3,400 Mn. Kgs is cotton yarn. Cotton Yarn accounts for nearly 73% of total spun yarn production. Indian Spinning Industry is the most mod- ern and efficient in the world. The world’s most renowned Indian Cotton Yarns are available as greige, bleached, mercerized, gassed, twisted, dyed or an endless range of fashion yarns like mélange, stretch, blends, high twist and so on to meet the different applications in fashion, clothing, home textiles, hosiery, and industrial fabrics. India is the big- gest producer of denim in the world with the world-fa- mous brands like Arvind, Jindal, Aarvee, Pratap Spin- tex, Etco Denim, Raymond and so on. Today, Indian cotton yarn is widely accepted in Inter- national markets as the exporters here regularly meet the needs of importers with unmatched efficiency and economy in countries like USA, Italy, Spain, Japan, Chi- na, South Korea, Taiwan, Bangladesh, Vietnam etc. The lockdown caused by the COVID-19 pandemic in India and across the globe from mid-March 2020 has created negative impact on prices and production and thereof on the Yarn demand. Cotton yarn spinning sec- tor is completely dependent on production and prices of cotton. Over the past few years, not only production of cotton decreased in India, but also its prices have increased. Cotton production in India has reduced from 398 lakh bales in 2013-2014 to 357 lakh bales in 2019-2020. Prices of raw cotton increased by over 10% during the same period. This has put considerable bur- den on the spinning industry. Price increase in cotton yarn has not been sufficient to match the increasing cost of raw materials and highly fluctuating cotton pric- es. India’s domestic consumption of cotton yarn is well below its production and its exports are also declining (from 1,313.43 million kg in 2013-14 to 959.79 million kg 2019-20 at a CAGR of about (-) 3%). Both low do- mestic consumption and decline in exports are lead- ing to surplus production of cotton yarn in the country, which is harming the spinning industry. Value-wise, in 2019-2020 the cotton yarn exports declined by 29.4 per cent to US$2,760.51 from US$3,895.52 in 2018-2019. Bangladesh, China and Egypt remained the top three exporting countries for India. India shipped cotton yarn worth US$590.57 million to Bangladesh in 2019-2020 (-20.03 per cent); US$590.57 million (down 53.92 per cent) to China and US$181.79 million (-1.11%) to Egypt. The share of Vietnam in China’s total imports of cotton yarn has in- creased from 7.61% in 2009 to 36.66% in 2018, while that of India has increased from 7.75% to 21.74% during the same period. India also faces duty challeng- es in export markets vis-à-vis competing countries. Pakistan and Bangladesh levy higher rates of duty on Indian yarn, while they enjoy duty free or concessional duty access in India. India is lagging in cotton exports to major markets due to a duty disadvantage vis-a-vis Bangladesh, Vietnam and Pakistan. Countries like Ban- gladesh and Vietnam enjoy duty-free access in world’s largest cotton yarn markets such as China. The global cotton yarn market decreased by -2.8% to $77.20 B in 2019, after the prominent growth recorded in 2018 when the market value increased by 18% year- to-year. In 2019, approx. 4.5M tonnes of cotton yarn were imported worldwide, which is down by -3.1% compared with the year before. The most prominent rate of growth was recorded in 2015 with an increase of 8.6% year-to-year. As a result, imports attained a peak of 4.8M tonnes. In value terms, cotton yarn im- ports dropped to $13.7B in 2019. Looking at the increase in recent demand for yarn in the domestic market, a lot of small spinners who had closed during lockdown period have restarted their mills from October 2020. National Textile Corporation (NTC) have announced that they are restarting around 40% of their spindle capacity which has been idle since
  • 23. “INDUSTRY MAY GO FOR MORE BLENDS” In terms of sustainability, the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol® sets a new standard for more sustainably grown cotton. Aligned with the U.N. Sustainable Development Goals, the Trust Protocol brings quantifiable and verifiable goals and measurement to more sustainable cotton production and drives continuous improvement in six key sustainability metrics – land use, soil carbon, water management, soil loss, greenhouse gas emissions and energy efficiency. This is what exactly consumers are looking for and what the U.S. cotton industry is offering. Peush Narang What trends do you see in coꢀon and other fibres? the lockdown. The present situaꢁon is only a temporary phenomenon and market forces will ensure that the demand-supply balance is restored in due course.Southern India Mills Associaꢁon (SIMA) have sent an advisory to all Member Mills to ensure uninterrupted yarn supply to the kniꢂng and weaving sectors and avoid undue volaꢁlity in prices. Peush Narang, Program Representaꢁve of Coꢀon USA replied to a couple of quesꢁons from the Texꢁle Value Chain. What is the future of coꢀon from the USA at a ꢁme coꢀon is highly in demand in India? Sales for U.S. cotton reflect strong demand. The mills want to buy cotton which is good quality, consistent and gives them good efficiency, and that exactly is what U.S. cotton has been delivering for many years. Now we have a COTTON USA SOLUTIONS™ technical team which is helping the mills with what they can expect from the quality of U.S. cotton and also help them plan better. Our SOLUTIONS team can also guide them operationally in terms of what changes they could do to improve their efficiency. Our team of SOLUTIONS experts has created five business-building programs, providing unmatched expertise informed by work with over 1,500 mills in 50 countries. Our programs are complimentary for customers who are COTTON USA™ licensees or U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol® members. I think the recent trend what we are seeing now is that people are switching to blends to meet the economics. But in India, cotton has a strong future because the industry has full faith that cotton will remain the engine of growth in the textile industry. The recent announcement made by the honorable Ministry of Finance on April 13, 2022 to exempt the import duty on cotton until Sept. 30, 2022, is a welcome step for the textile industry. Thanks to the Indian cotton associations and the textile associations who have collaborated on behalf of Indian textile industry. I think mills will be much happier as they now have access to quality U.S. cotton and this will be good for spinners. 23 TVC | APRIL 2022
  • 24. 24 TVC | APRIL 2022 According to Mr. Mahesh Maheshwari , Executive Director of Nimbark Fashion Limited, the cost of cotton is currently about Rs. 1 lakh per candy. It has been said that in commodity market , there is a price cycle of each product and thus we see the rise of cotton prices today. “I don’t think that cotton prices will continue to stay in this range. When this cycle ends, the cost of cotton candy will set- tle between Rs. 60000-70000. I believe that in a few months time, we will be able to ascertain whether the crop of cotton will continue to affect the industry or not. During 2011, the cost of cotton rose upto Rs. 60000- 62000 which eventually came down to Rs. 32000 in a few months time. So, as it is said, his- tory repeats itself and we can see a similar pattern today in cotton prices.” says Mr. Maheshwari, while speaking to the Editor of the Textile Value Chain, during the cotton crisis. Views on Current Cotton Price Crisis Indian Textile Industry had barriers as far as the prices were concerned, yet, today we see those barriers re- ducing and an acceptance by the industry to this new development. As necessity is the mother of invention, the cotton price crisis has led to industry into diversi- fying towards production of unique blends of cotton and other fibers which will benefit the mills to reduce cotton consumption and look forward for new mar- kets. Those mills who were only dependent on cotton production, now have an opportunity to diversify their product range. If cotton cost has increased, parallelly the demand of polyester has increased. When the rate will come down as per the cycle, cotton will be in de- mand again. There are no droughts this season, there- fore there will not be issues in the spinning process. One great market learning of this situation is that the textile industry has developed acceptance to market fluctuations whether it is yarn or fabric. The future of Indian Textile Industry is bright. I under- stand that in India, the consumption will be double of what it is today by the year 2030. Owing to the growth of India’s GDP the per capita income has increased, leading to increase in per capita consumption, both quality and quantity wise. In the last few years there has been an increase in lifestyle expenditures. Once upon a time, consumers were not concerned about their wardrobe until the clothes were worn out, but nowadays the trend is to change the wardrobe as per CYCLIC CHANGE BEHIND COTTON RISE: MAHESH MAHESHWARI TVC Editorial Team seasons, mood, lifestyle, position, stage/situation in life, etc. Due to COVID-19 lockdown, people did not spend on clothes since they were at home and now, post lockdown I think variety and new trends of cloth- ing are the top priority of individuals with high dispos- able incomes. With Government of India’s support to textile exports, in the next five years, the growth of export sector will also help the industry to boost rev- enues. Advice to Start Ups The IndianTextile industry is a difficult industry, to start up a new business into. Since the industry is huge, whatever you learn, you’d still be lacking in knowledge. Thus, new age entrepreneurs should have a learning attitude. They should learn from experienced people, from teams and professionals. Textile industry has huge history ; it is not like IT industry which has bloomed in a few years span. Thus, enter the businesses with a long term plan and a mindset that Rome wasn’t built in a day. In the Textile Industry, margins are less and money is made and earned over time. Here you cannot gain huge margins. Net margins are are quite low. Thus to make a mark in the industry you have to research on market trends, focus on new developments in produc- tion and focus on value added products, since these are highly demanding and worth the risk. If we manage these things, the future is bright and we can do busi- ness in a good way.
  • 25. 25 TVC | APRIL 2022 3rd Floor, Dawer Chambers, Ring Road, Surat- 395 002. Gujarat, India Phone: +91 261 4190200 / 2635541-42 | e-Mail : info@shahlon.com | Web. : www.shahlon.com Maintaining world-class quality standards and delivering innovative products have been the foundation of Shahlon group’s manufacturing philosophy. A system of acute quality control involving multiple tests throughout each stage of operation is adopted, ensuring quality, efficiency and dependability of every product. Our wide range of yarn offerings include Applications Textured We produce all types of NIM, SIM, HIM textured and crimp yarn, in all lustres - SD, FD as well as BRT, using interna- tional standard manufactur- ing techniques. Intermingle Our carpet yarn offerings are further expanded through intermingled yarn. Carpet We have been exporting various types of yarns such as micro and high bulk to the carpet manufacturing industry, for products ranging from rugs to wall to wall carpets. Dyed With a capacity of producing 750 tons per month, & world-class infrastructure, we are well-known to meet the dyeing needs of international and local markets. Space Dyed Adding further value to dyed yarn, we also manufacture and supply polyester/ viscose space-dyed yarn. Weaving Furnishing Laces Tapes Carpets Labels Velvet Knitting Government Recognized Star Export House
  • 26. 26 TVC | APRIL 2022 OVERVIEW OF SMART FIBRES Sakshi Khool D.K.T.E’S Textile & Engineering Institute, Ichalkaranji ABSTRACT O ver the past few years, smart fibres have seen tremendous growth, especially in terms of research funding and development of start-ups. However, succeeding in reaching the con- sumer market are a very few products. Indeed, one of the main challenges remains the lack of standardised test methods to evaluate properties and performance of smart fibres. In this review paper, we will talk about the history, applications, future readiness of smart fibres. Smart textiles synonymously known as electronic textiles, e-textiles, intelligent textiles, and alike is a class of ma- terials, where textiles play a vital role but where functionalities from other disciplines are added. In technical textile area significant progresses have been achieved in last few years. There are many separate and distinct fields of science and engineering. Considerable movement and convergence has takes place between these fields of endeavour and results have been astonishing. One of these results is Smart technology for materials and structures. Smart textiles are one of the exciting new frontier technologies in engineering and manufacturing. Due advantages in many technologies cou- pled with advances in textile materials and structures smart fibres are possible. Biotechnology, in- formation technology, microelectronics, wearable computers, nanotechnology and micro electro- mechanical machine are included in partial list. There are three categories in which smart fibres are classified according to their function. Results in an outcome named as smart textiles are the amalgamation of electronic components and advanced fibres with manmade textiles extend the field of material science and digital electronics. Often even before we do the world of fashion knows what we want to wear. Be it the trending hemlines or the latest accessories, designers around the world predict and often create the future when it comes to preference. Smart fibres is one thing that has been picked up by a lot of such visionary designers. Smart fibres are created by modified textile material and miniaturised electronic devices [3]. Definition Smart fibres and structures can be defined as mate- rials and structures that can sense and react to envi- ronmental conditions or stimuli , such as those from mechanical, thermal, chemical, electrical, magnetic or other sources. Smart fabrics have been defined as fabrics which are defined and manufactured to include technologies that provide to the user increased func- tionality. Classification Fibres can be divided into three materials according to Smart Fibres
  • 27. 27 TVC | APRIL 2022 manner of reaction, smart passive smart, active smart and very smart materials. Sensors, actuators and con- trolling units are three components present in materi- als on which smart fibres are classified. These classifi- cations are as follows: a)Passive smart materials Materials which can only sense to environmental con- ditions or stimuli are called passive smart materials. These fibres are called as first generation of smart fi- bres. Passive smart fabric textiles still fall short of the scope of smart fabric textile in strict sense, and should be more accurately called functional fabric textiles. b) Active smart materials The materials that can sense and react to condition or stimuli are called as active smart fibres. These are also called as second generation of smart fibres. Shape memory fabric textiles are examples of active smart fi- bres. c) Very smart materials The materials can sense, react and adopt themselves accordingly are called as very smart materials. They are also called as advanced smart materials or adap- tive smart fabric textiles. History STEVE MANN is known as “the father of wearable com- puting”. He often refers to the abacus ring as one of the first pieces of wearable technology. There were much effort and researches on smart textiles since the mid of 1980. EU, European space agency, NASA, giant compa- nies and industries like Adidas and industry members are some different groups who put funds to R and D for different end uses. Such researches are carried out by EU, European Space Agency, government agencies, NASA, giant companies and industries like Adidas. The Figure 1: historical review of development of fibres
  • 28. 28 TVC | APRIL 2022 5. Smart apparel and footwear in fashion and sport. 6. Workplace safety and manufacturing. Either directly from military R&D or from spin offs the initial application of smart fibres have come. Sensing and responding are the capabilities of smart fibres which are responsible for this application. Future At present, smart textiles are one of focus topics in multi-disciplinary research and target a great variety of applications, smart textiles is a clear priority for the fu- ture of textiles and clothing in developed countries. In recent years, with development of intelligent system, smart fibres have been widely researched. Whether for performance or aesthetic reason, the fo- cus within textile area is on smart fabricsfrom those that change their hue to those that regulate body tem- perature. Smart cothes in future could have self-heal- ing property. Smart fibres in future will monitor our health and help us to keep healthy and fit. The bras can already contain heart rate sensor. Smart textiles market has experienced tremendous growth over the past few years in sections, such as medical, healthcare, automotive and sport industries, where these textiles offer significant potential for med- ical and healthcare applications and make diagnosis far more accurate and quicker. Readiness of smart fibres for market Exponential growth of interest smart and interactive fibres has grown in last few years. With the gradual reduction of component costs, the commercialization aim is to initiate restructuring, strengthening and com- mercial developments of products of smart textiles. Around 1000 years ago, conductive threads and fabrics have been developed which are needed to construct E-textiles. At the end of 19th century, people develop and grew accustomed to electric appliances, design- ers and engineering. They begin to combine electricity with clothing and jewel-designing. At the museum of contemporary craft in New York City, ground breaking exhibition called body covering was held which is fo- cused on relationship between technology and appar- el. The first fully animated sweatshirt was invented by Harry Wainwright, in 1985; which consist of fibre op- tics leads and microprocessor. Application Body conformal antennas for integrated radio equip- ment into clothing, power and data transmission– a personal area network, flexible photovoltaic integrat- ed into textile fabrics, physiological status monitoring to hydration and nutritional status as well as more con- ventional heart monitoring; smart footwear to let you know where you are and to convert and conserve en- ergy and of course, phase change material for heating and cooling of individual. Another application is weav- ing of sensors into parachutes to avoid obstacles and steer parachutes or cargo load to precise location. Shape memory polymers have been applied to textiles in fibres, films and foam forms, resulting in range of high-performance fabrics and garments, especially seagoing garments. Fibre sensors, which are capable of measuring temperatures strain/stress, gas, biolog- ical species and smell, are typically smart fibres that can be directly applied to textiles. Conductive poly- mer-based actuators have achieved very high level of energy density. Applications of smart fibres are as follows: 1. Medical and healthcare monitoring and diagnostics 2. Sportswear and fitness monitoring (bands) 3. Consumer electronics such as smart watches, smart glasses and headsets. 4. Military global positioning system (GPS) trackers, equipment (helmets) and wearable robots. Figure 2: Applications of smart fibres in military
  • 29. 29 TVC | APRIL 2022 of many of the smart technologies becomes achiev- able. The demand for intelligent materials to develop electric textiles (e-textiles) and smart apparel is rap- idly growing up for industrial application such as sen- sors, electrostatic discharge, steel corrosion, electro- magnetic interference, shielding, dust free clothing, monitoring, military application and data transfer in clothing and all other field [3]. Smart textiles are not yet ready for the market at large scale, even if smart textiles are gained a certain level of maturity [5]. Numerous fields of applications including different trends fields in leisure and sports, some lifesavings in health care, security and military are new developing sectors captured by smart fibres. Printed electronics and energy harvesting technologies are evolving to meet the demands of new, wearable formats. A lot of work has been performed to make washable ready to market smart textile products and wash ability of smart textile has gained attention now days [5]. Risks involved in using smart fabric The obvious flip side of using smart fibres is the po- tential misuse of their capabilities. There is also per- manent risk of unwanted or unintended body sur- veillance and the erosion of any remaining sense of privacy. One of challenges for manufacturing of smart fabric is achieving seamless and invisible integration of electronic into fabric. Consequently, researchers need to provide fibres with desired electronic functionality without compromising strength, comfort and aesthet- ic apparel [4]. This technology gives uncomforted sensing of the wearer, and a major challenge in wearable comput- ing is how to interconnect these components with soft textile, and find alternatives to silicon, metal, and components with difficult to integrate them in textile. However, the disadvantage of this kind of textile is that the electric component must be removed before wash- ing and it cannot be washed with an electric machine, and so expensive. Both the textile and electronics field should be compliant with requirement by commercial smart textiles. Conclusion Advanced material, polymers, micro-electronics, com- puters and information technology are the areas in which number of researches and development are conducting. These researches are done to develop and advancement of new materials and better commu- nication. Textiles are also changing day by day. There are lots of developments which include lots of appli- cations, which make the life easy and healthy. These products are lifesaving, have protective clothing and importance for medical and healthcare. References 1. Ana M Grancaric, I. j. (2018): Conductive Polymers for Smart Textile Application, Journal of Industrial Textiles, 612-642. 2. Asis Patnaiik, S. P. (2020): Fibres to Smart Textiles . CRC Press. 3. Meinander, H. (2014): Smart and Intelligent Textiles and Fibres, Textiles in Sports , 120-133. 4. S. Lam Po Tang, G. S. (2006): An Overview of Smart Technologies for Clothing Design and Engineering. 5. International Journal of Clothing Science and Tech- nology . 6. SU Zaman, X. T. (2018): Market Readiness of Smart Textile Structures--Reliability and Washability, Material Science and Engineering. 7. Tang, S. L. (n.d.). 8. Tao, X.-M. (2001): Smart Fibres, Fabrics and Clothing: Fundamentals and Application, Woodhead Publishing Limited. Figure 3: Shape memory fibres
  • 30. 30 TVC | APRIL 2022 ZR 72XL/ZI 72XL – the modular all-rounder Our new ring- and compact-spinning machines – the direct path to a successful future. Choose between different drafting systems, compact and yarn systems. Benefit from the powerful cutting-edge technology and our modular solutions. Take the step into the future with modern machine intelligence. saurer.com Create perfect ring yarns.
  • 31. 31 TVC | APRIL 2022 Major Global Trends: Technical Textile & MMF With 3rd highest and competitive availability of synthetic and MMF fibres and polymers like polyester, PP, nylons and viscose etc, India is now required to get in fast mode to up its global presence in Technical Textiles, with target of raising its technical textiles size to US$ 27 billion by 2026. Shift to growing production of Technical Textiles With reduced post covid retail demand for wear- able textiles and apparels, and with increased availabil- ity of MMF and synthetic fibres of all types and includ- ing the recycled MMF fibres; there is increasing and expanding interest in nonwoven and technical textiles which will lead the global T&C demand at average 7-8 % per annum vis a vis existing growth of 4-4.5% Cotton and its erratic and unyielding prices continue to play havoc for exports of value adding textiles and apparels from many developing countries. With MMF fibres share touching 30-35% in developed economies, It’s the right time for their further growth and con- sumption vis a vis cotton textiles. With this New paradigm shift and present-day scenar- io, this edition of Global Outlook focuses on India s planned initiatives to ramp up technical textile produc- tion and end use and also the exports to slot India once again amid top 3 global producers. The current level of Technical Textiles industry in India The global size of the technical textiles and nonwovens industry and its trade is presently at level of US$260 to 275 billion with a growth of 8%CAGR; which is almost double the growth rate of normal T&C sector at 4 to 4.5%. India’s share. In this fast growing and key textile sector is presently minimal at a total of US$ 20 billion turnover, which is less than 1% of the global size. This is not helping India upgrade its global supplier status. China yet remains the leader, closely followed by Eu- rope, and will be the main engine for driving India s MMF fibre consumption. With 3rd highest and competitive availability of syn- thetic and MMF fibres and polymers like polyester, PP, nylons and viscose etc, India is now required to get in fast mode to up its global presence in Technical Tex- tiles, with target of raising its technical textiles size to US$ 27 billion by 2026. The Key drivers of this growth will be the new and in- By Munish Tyagi Global Textile Leader and Int`l Consultant to Technical Textiles /Nonwovens MMF & Technical Textiles
  • 32. 32 TVC | APRIL 2022 creased focus on production of speciality industrial textiles to be end-used in hi-growth and strategic sec- tors like the medical textiles, geotechnical textiles, Aerospace and high-altitude end use where India is very upbeat, the Indian Defence and civil infrastruc- ture segments for creating high speed rail network, new ports, new airports and tunnels and road in high altitude areas like Kashmir, Ladakh and North East and also including a string of new highways, etc. It is now further endorsed that, with double the `de- mand `growth rate versus the traditional T&C textiles, the global textile recovery post Covid is to be led by this new industrial textile sector led by increased availabil- ity of MMF and synthetic fibres/filaments and growing industrial use of `speciality` and advanced materials based on new age fibres like Carbon, Aramide, Ceram- ic and glass fibre, etc. INDIA’s 4 Aces, that is 4 most impactful new policies to help drive the production and use of technical textiles. The Indian Government is now ready to provide to the textile industry with its 4 new aces which will be the key engines of growth for technical textile sector, as also for pushing India’s global T&C share: a. The TTDS scheme, with an outlay of Rs. 160,000 million is being launched to replace the 25-year- old TUF scheme for incentivising the new invest- ment in textile sector. However, the focus will be advanced technology and such indigenous ma- chinery development capabilities. b. The NTTM scheme [that’s is National Technical Textiles Mission spearheaded by Textile Ministry/ GOI] scheme, is being continued with a budget of Rs.10,000 million for the textile industry to venture into high tech projects in technical textiles arena. c. The PLI or the production linked scheme is anoth- er new mega investment scheme to rope in large corporate and global investors into textile industry. The PLI scheme will bring in large output produc- tion and with focus on both MMF fibre use and manufacturing of technical textiles. Already more than 70 serious applications and project Intents have been registered. d. The launch of the MITRA scheme for development and operations of large size or mega Textile Parks to attract large global investment into such world class `play n plug` manufacturing zones in different corners of the country and ideally placed close to the fibre production centres and seaports. India’s competitive advantages v/s global competitions To be able to enhance India’s textile sector size to US$100 billion plus by 2024, and slot itself with aver- age of 8% share in global T&C/Tech textiles trade, India has to emerge as leading China +1 global supplier and lead from front using the competitive advantages such as; Availability and access to all key raw materials and MMF fibres, 2. However, India has to make a strong thrust into de- velop and production of speciality fibres like carbon fibres, Aramides, ceramic, glass and other fibres with special focus on high tech textile end uses that are based on `sustainability` and green issues. 3. India does have the advantage of competitive wag- es, and yet needs to scale up for the production and new markets. India yet needs to address the deficiency and critical gaps areas below India needs to actively pursue free-trade agreements (FTAs) with major export destinations like the EU ,and the US to push apparel shipments amid increasing competition from fast growing rivals like Vietnam, Bangladesh, Turkey, Egypt, and Cambodia that enjoy tariff concessions, under liberal duty free trade agree- ments like GSP+ and TPT 11 and others. India has traditionally enjoyed a comparative advan- tage in the cotton-based textile sector, including ap- parels, and they constitute a major chunk of India’s export basket. However, India’s shift to MMF textiles now has to be immediate and a serious call to enhance its share in the global T&C trade to more than 5% and also to take its rightful place as China+1. Project No. Project Title Project Capacity 1 Export focussed YARN SPG MILLS,OF 25 K spdls,for BCI/ Organic yarns,for Knttg &wvg Approx..20 TPD 2 Cotton Yarn Mill with Ring and OE spg,withInhouse Knitting unit 15 to 20 TP- D,with 5TPD knttg. 3 3.Integrated Yarn Spg.unit of 20 TPD Ring +OE yarns with 10TPD Terry Towelunit 15 to 20 TPD New Textile Projects _3 Nos export oriented *Mail us for Turnkey Proj. Execution.
  • 33. 33 TVC | APRIL 2022 Futuristic Twisting Futuristic Twisting Twisting Solutions Twisting Solutions Textiles Textiles FIBC Threads Belting Fabrics Dipped Cords Geo Textiles Bullet Proof Jackets direct twisting + precision winding Tapes / Twines / Multifilament Meera Industries USA, LLC 209, Swathmore Ave, High Point NC, USA 27263 Meera Industries Limited 2126, Road No.2, GIDC, Sachin, Surat 394230 Gujarat, INDIA +91 98795 97041 | sales@meeraind.com | www.meeraind.com
  • 34. 34 TVC | APRIL 2022 Mask, Protect it! Nur Hani Aqilah Binti Salehin & Thomas P.S. Ong Nano Textile Sdn Bhd. Email: hani@nanotextileinnovation.com L et us see what 2022 will start with. One obvious thing to be sure of is wearing a mask. Malaysians are still masking either in open places or fully vac- cinated and obviously in crowded places too. Since the Delta and Omicron virus has spread out through the entire country, masking is necessary while double masking has been one step ahead for more protection. Double mask as a new way of life! “In high-risk environments such as hospitals, it is rec- ommended that you wear a double face mask and a face shield” “There is no need for a double face mask in public ar- eas, but it is obligatory to wear a face mask,” said Ma- laysian Health Director-General Tan Sri Dr Noor Hish- am Abdullah. He recommended Malaysians take extra precautions when visiting high-risk public places such as hospitals as at the moment, the infection caused by the Omicron variant of the coronavirus is rapidly spreading throughout the world. This variant is well- known for its high transmissibility rate, but it is not as severe as its ancestor, the Delta variant. Nevertheless, without hesitation and compulsion, we as Malaysians began to take precautionary measures by wearing a double face mask anywhere whether on the train, in the mall, or in the cinema. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) undertook much research in January 2021 to improve mask function and reduce COVID-19 transmission. It was determined that ‘double-masking,’ or knotting the ear loops of a 3-ply mask and adjusting it to fit snugly to the face, can give more protection for the mask-wearer and those around them. Since there are many types of face masks that have been designed such as N95 mask protection, KN95, KF94, surgical mask, 3-ply disposable mask, fabric mask, etc, there are some people who perform double masking incorrectly. Some may just double the 3-ply mask, while others may double the KF94 mask, result- ing in an 8-ply mask that makes breathing difficult and highly discouraged. The method of double masking is simple, it involves putting two different and correct combination types of Source: https://www.cdc.gov/mmwr/volumes/70/wr/mm7007e1.htm?s_cid=mm7007e1_w Double Mask
  • 35. 35 TVC | APRIL 2022 face masks on your face. The CDC recommends a 3-ply disposable or surgical face mask with a cloth mask. When double masking, it is critical to ensure that the masks fit exactly against the sides of the face so have no holes for air to flow inside and out. Next level of protection Can you picture doubling your masking while also tri- pling your protection? It has provided you with addi- tional protection against bacteria and some types of viruses. Choosing a cloth mask with antibacterial prop- erties will provide further protection. Antibacterial characteristics are all the rage these days, and their in- corporation into clothes and Muslimah dress has taken it to the next level, particularly in Malaysia. Unfortu- nately, one of the most common questions from buy- ers before purchasing a product is, “How can we know if this product is antibacterial?” Yes, people will not buy the product if they’re unsure. But there will be no loyal customer when there is no first buyer. Hence, at the end of the day, they will buy it with the conviction of the founder or other buyer. This concern has been appearing in antibacterial face mask. But, if people consider on the benefit, truly they will purchase it. One advantage of antibacterial face masks is that they operate as a silent defender. Wheth- er it is a cloth mask or a disposable mask, it helps to reduce the danger of transferring bacteria and viruses into your hands when adjusting it. However, it is im- portant to note that antibacterial face masks cannot destroy the COVID-19 virus, as there is no study to sup- port this claim. If you wonder how an antibacterial face mask works? Click and read at this article for more insight: https://www.nanotextileinnovation.com/covid-19- how-antibacterial-textile-guide-you-through-the-dark- ness/ There are many brands in Malaysia that started to sell the antibacterial face mask mainly for cloth mask, such as Three Little Ahmads, CalaQisya, TudungPeople and for disposable face mask, Yukazan is one of the anti- bacterial face mask producers. How to clean an antibacterial face mask? The face mask with antibacterial characteristics on the inside may be washed as usual. If you buy an antimi- crobial disposable face mask, simply fold the outside corners together and toss it in the trash. If, on the oth- er hand, you purchase an antibacterial fabric mask, you should gentle wash it in room temperature water with a standard grade detergent. However, the fabric mask can also be hand-washed but without chlorine bleach, and the face mask can be dried by hanging damp from a line or bar.
  • 36. 36 TVC | APRIL 2022 www.uster.com/qbar2 Inspecting fabrics after weaving is old school. With USTER® Q-BAR 2, smart weavers can pinpoint defects during fabric formation. It’s the right way to reduce material losses and minimize manual checks. When it comes to fabric quality issues, prevention is better than cure. The whole fabric is automatically monitored – warp, weft, selvage and leno – and faults are identified immediately. LEDs signal defect locations to the weaver, with information shown on the control unit touchscreen. It’s automatic inspection, in-process and instant, so weavers can react to prevent long-running or repeating faults. USTER® Q-BAR 2 sets the future standard, controlling the weaving process instead of the output. USTER ® Q-BAR 2 Weave it right: spot defects on the loom
  • 37. 37 TVC | APRIL 2022 SETU: Mission & Goals TVC Editorial Team Abstract The Vision of SETU is to contribute in making the Indian Engineering Industry globally competitive. The Mission of SETU is to promote Innovation and Standardisation of all en- gineering machinery and components; enhance Indian exports and reduce dependency on Imports through Import substitution; and to improve global employability of Indian manpower. The Mission of SETU is to promote Innovation and Standardisation of all en- gineering machinery and components; enhance Indian exports and reduce dependency on Imports through Import substitution; and to improve global employability of Indian manpower. Keywords: SETU, CII, FICCI, NDIM, SOP, CEFC S ETU known as Science, Engineering and Techno- logical Upliftment Foundation. A Section 8 Com- pany (Not for Profit Organisation) incorporated under the Companies Act, 2013. Website: www.setu- foundation.co.in. SETU Foundation is an SPV devel- oped by Surat Engineering Vikas Association (SEVA), Surat Textile Machinery Manufacturers’ Association (l) (TMMA), Mumbai along with support of Department of Heavy Industries (DHI), Ministry of Heavy Industries & Public Enterprises, Government of India, Sardar Val- labhbhai Patel Education Society’ (SVPES), Bardoli. The Origin of SETU goes back to an organisation called SEPA – Surat Engineering Professionals Association, founded in 1996, with the purpose to engage Engi- neering Professionals into continuous learning and technological updating. The deliberations resulted in the formation of SEVA – Surat Engineering Vikas Asso- ciation registered Trust in 2008, with the aim of help- ing Engineering industries adopt new technologies and skill development of its workforce. While all the leaders of these organisations were also well connected and associated with many other pro- fessional and business organisations like Southern Gujarat Chamber of Commerce & Industry, All India Electric Motor Manufacturers Association, Textile Ma- chinery Manufacturers Association of India, All India Lift Upliftment Federation, CII, FICCI, etc., their critical observations and interactions with members of indus- try and academia made them realise that Indian Engi- neering Industry lacks global competitiveness due to outdated technologies, unreasonable imports and un- synchronised employee skill development. Members of the industry also expressed concern of huge costs to invest in latest working machinery. This led to a vision to establish a Common Engineering Facility Centre. However, to authenticate the dream and the need, an organised Survey was carried out covering 600 + varied engineering industries. The re- sult was very promising and SEVA took the initiative to establish Science, Engineering and Technological Up- liftment Foundation (SETU) in 2016 with the support of the Textile Machinery Manufacturers Association of India. The Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel Education Society joined this initiative by donating 2.56 acer land to es- SETU - Industry Project
  • 38. 38 TVC | APRIL 2022 tablish the Common Engineering Facility Centre. Thus, one organisation after other, led by technocrats, devel- oped SETU Foundation with the solitary vision of mak- ing Indian Engineering Industry globally competitive. 1.1. The Approach We intend to achieve the objectives by becoming a One Point Service Provider to MSMEs & Heavy Indus- tries through: A Common Engineering Facility Centre (CEFC) equipped with world class machineries with latest technology; Strategic tie-ups with Technocrats, Design Software suppliers, Academic Institutes Gov- ernment departments, Business Associations and related interests. 2. Methodology 2.1. Setu Activity Verticals SETU intends to achieve the Objectives by establishing/ undertaking activities under the following verticals: 1. Product/Prototype Development Centre 2. Design Centre 3. Skill Development Centre 4. Testing & Calibration Centre 5. Heat Treatment Centre 2.2. Common engineering facility centre Facilities Planned: 1. World Class Engineering Workshop 2. Training & Conference Facility 3. Product Exhibition Gallery 4. Testing & Calibration Centre 2.3. Strategic tie-ups MoUs with: 1. Surati iLab (Surat intellectual and innovation Labora- tory), Surat Municipal Corporation 2. MBI –South Korea 3. IPFC (Intellectual Property Facilitation Centre), Ahmedabad 4. NDIM, (New Delhi Institute of Management) New Delhi 5. Sopan Infotech -Design Centre 6. SEVA MoU with NID/NSIC/MSMEDI/etc. 7. Various Engineering Colleges 8. Industry & Professional Bodies 2.4. Professional Approach SETU Foundation has been established to become a fully professional organisation. To ensure that it be- comes a System Driven Organisation, we have estab- lished the following SOPs: 1. Administration SOP 2. Human Resource Management SOP 3. Accounts & Records Keeping SOP 4. Procurement SOP We are now in the process of formulating Policies & Guidelines for development of activities under each vertical. Conclusion SETU is a social enterprise. The goal is to facilitate In- dustry and academia, not to generate much financial profit. We intend to provide a platform to raise the standards of the industry and make it globally compet- itive. The CEFC is a big step in the direction and is ex- pected to benefit MSEs to utilise the facility and ensure quality products at competitive prices. However, more than the financial gain, focus has been laid on the benefit to academia, industry, and the na- tion. The nation will be benefited by better productiv-
  • 39. 39 TVC | APRIL 2022 ity, better employability, better quality products, en- hanced exports, and less dependence on imports, and will be proud to be one of the most technologically advanced nations. To become a true superpower, India needs an impact- ful paradigm shift in upgrading technologies, upgrad- ing skills, upgrading efficiencies and upgrading mind- set. SETU aims to take a lead in this process and the CEFC is one of its tools to do so. We need wholeheart- ed support from various stakeholders in this massive endeavour, thus fulfilling our collective Corporate So- cial Responsibility and Individual Social Responsibility. References 1) National Science Foundation (US): Directorate for Education, and Human Resources. Shaping the future: New expectations for undergraduate education in sci- ence, mathematics, engineering, and technology. Vol. 1. National Science Foundation, Division of Undergrad- uate Education, 1996. 2) Zheng, Yongnian: Technological empowerment. Stanford University Press, 2022. 3) Zheng, Yongnian: Technological empowerment. Stanford University Press, 2022. 4) Atkins, Daniel Ewell: Revolutionising science and engineering through cyberinfrastructure: Report of the National Science Foundation blue-ribbon advisory panel on cyberinfrastructure. National Science Foun- dation, 2003. 5) Monyooe, Lebusa, and Steve Ledwaba: “Information and Communication Technologies for Women Empow- erment: South Africa’s Unfinished Agenda,” Instruc- tional Technology (2004).
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  • 43. 43 TVC | APRIL 2022 LATEST TREND IN KNITTING INDUSTRY IN SURAT TVC Editorial Team Towards the end of the seventeenth century, Surat began to decine as the trade capital by virtue of many reasons like the defeat of the Mughal Em- pire and lack of business areas and proficiency, control over the sea cours- es by the Portuguese and challenge from Bombay (present day Mumbai) from the East India Company. But in the 21st century Surat has emerged as a key weaving area with the annual turnover of twist weaving area in the city fixed at Rs1,000 crore. S urat, an emerging and growing city in the prov- ince of Gujarat, is known as the material city of Gujarat. The warp knitting sector is the country’s biggest man-made-fibres (MMF) focus in the city. As perrecentfigures,textileproduction in Surathasgrown by 10% in the last 5 years, while the market for embroi- dery has grown from an almost negligible amount to around Rs. 30000 million over the same period. Regardless of being new for the Surat market, the city is now known for knitting and weaving industry. Today, Surat has in excess of 300 twist sewing machines and another 100 are currently under establishment. Su- rat has already stabilised machine in knitting industry as Circular knitting matching, Warp knitting machine, Raschel Machine n which production range is 4500 tons per month, 6400 tons per month, 1500 tons per month, respectively. The pattern is not restricted to greater players, and, surprisingly, the little and medi- um players are likewise putting resources into twist sewing machines, however quite possibly a couple of machines. While the homegrown market is essentially utilising twist sewn textures in kidswear and women articles of clothing, the worldwide business sectors are getting for athletic apparel, underwear and specialised Knitting in Surat
  • 44. 44 TVC | APRIL 2022 materials. Almost 30 million meters of fabrics of crude texture and 25 million meters of handled texture are delivered in Surat every day. The city has a few materials busi- ness sectors that exist since days of yore. Zampa Ba- zaar, Bombay Market, JJ Textile Market and Jash Mar- ket are among them. Katat Gam, Magdalla and Udhana are the areas of Surat where assembling is for the most part done. Over time, individuals from different spots like Rajasthan and Kolkata got comfortable in Surat to do their material business. Warp knitted fabrics are extensively used for sports- wear, lingerie, shoes, car seat covers, and mattresses along with technical textiles The Surat textile industry has grown considerably over time. One of the main reasons behind the growth of Surat’s textile industry is the city’s ability to adapt to changes and the latest trends. The city is quick to respond to any changes in the preferences of people. The industrialists here have strong entrepreneurial skills. Most of the traders have a fixed group of clients, with whom they trade. Most of the business is done on a credit basis. According to the Federation of Surat Textile Traders Association, the industry suffered a loss of Rs. 200 crore in 2004-05 on account of malpractices. The industry suffered a huge loss in the floods of 2006 as well. Around 40,000 textile shops were damaged in Surat in these floods and the total loss was reported to be at Rs.10 crore per day. However, the city has always been quick to rise from these setbacks. Warp knitted fabrics are extensively used for sports- wear, lingerie, shoes, car seat covers and mattresses along with technical textiles like automobile filtration, lining and pocketing mesh. Most of the units in Surat and elsewhere manufacture better quality products than China. The Surat textile industry has grown considerably over time. One of the main reasons behind the growth of Surat’s textile industry is the city’s ability to adapt to changes and the latest trends.
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  • 46. 46 TVC | APRIL 2022 “Gimatex ALWAYS FOCUSES ON COTTON VALUE ADDITION” TVC Editorial Team Gimatex replied to a TVC Questionnaire. Ex- cerpts: Mohota Group has a glorious history of over 125 years in the textile industry. Tell us about some of the important highlights, achievements, mile- stones during this journey. The Graph below tells you the story so far….. [From Left to Right: Vineet Kumar Mohota – Director (Finance), Basant Kumar Mohota – Chairman, Prashant Kumar Mohota – MD, Anurag Kumar Mohota – Director (Works)] interview - Gimatex
  • 47. 47 TVC | APRIL 2022 According to you, how has the industry im- proved over the last few decades? Over the years we see that industry has significantly improved in terms of efficiency in its processes innova- tions for the products and delivering a cause effective and sustainable product solution for deserving cus- tomers. Huge improvement has taken place in terms of finishes in various fabrics so that it can sustain and last for longer use and as per the product application. Technology has improved significantly where we see machines talking to the computers and all kinds of data availability for making quick and improved deci- sion making. How did you celebrate 125 years of Mohota Group and 25 years of Gimatex? What is the future course for the company? On 25th of March, 2022, Gimatex celebrated its 25th anniversary and 125 years of textile history of the Mo- hota group. On this momentous occasion, Gimatex in- augurated its new manufacturing facilities, namely the 10 TPD Open End Unit at Wani and the 25 TPD Spin- ning Unit at Hinganghat Integrated Textile Park. Fur- thermore, Gimatex also launched its Premium e-com- merce Apparel brand ‘Minus One’ in the same event. Various dgnitaries from across India and abroad graced the occasion. Mr. Sanjay Jayavarthanavelu, Chairman of Lakshmi Machine Works was the Chief Guest and Mr. Ajay Arora, MD of D’Decor, was the guests of Hon- our. Other prominent personalities included Kishanji Poddar (Siyarams), Mr. Hisahiro Koketsu (MD, Toyota), Pankaj Sarda (Jt. MD, Sarda Energy & Minerals), Man- ish Kumar, Mr. Anil Jain, Mr. Aditya Jain and Mr. Mas- ayuki Yamamoto among many others. It is pertinent to note that, Gimatex’s first manufac- turing facility in Wani started operations in 1997 and has entered a period of constant expansions and rap- id growth. The new Open End Unit at Wani adds yarn manufacturing capability to manufacture recycled fibre based fabrics. At Hinganghat Integrated Textile Park, the new spinning facility adds further 32,000 spindles to their existing capacity of 1,68,000 spindles. Combined, these new units also contribute to tremen- dous employment in the local region to the tune of ad- ditional 500 people. The dedication, integrity and pas- sion with which all the family members have served the company has led to the 6th generation of the Mo- hota family to continue in the same business. Gimatex has always focused on value addition in the cotton sector. By launching Minus One Gimatex has completed an integration from Cotton Fibres to Fash- ion segment and added tremendous value to the cot- ton lifecycle. Moreover, by using only Vidharbha cot- ton in their products, Gimatex is supporting the local farmers and alleviating the difficulties faced by them in recent times. Previously, Gimatex had installed a sci- entific cotton seed processing unit to add value to the Cotton chain, and with Minus One they have extended this philosophy further. On this important occasion, Gimatex has made a com- mitment of contributing Rs. 25 per pc sale of Minus One Apparel & Rs. 100 per Quintal sale on GIMA WHITEGO- LD Cotton Seed Refined Oil. This contribution will be used for welfare of the cotton farming community. Additionally, to mark the celebrations of the milestone year, Gimatex has taken over the maintenance and upkeep of the main squares, fountains and decorative lightings of Hinganghat Town, from Subhash Chowk to Tukdoji Chow. They also felicitated 18 staff members who have served them for more than 35 years in a short programme at their Club House. Gimatex has always received great support from the local community. Through their development activi- ties, they have always focused on the growth of the local areas and will continue to do so in future. As they mark their special occasion in 2022, Gimatex wishes that we continue to stand with them on their onward
  • 48. 48 TVC | APRIL 2022 journey. Sabka Saath, sabka vikaas! Cotton and cotton yarn prices and market have been in a flux for many months now. How has it been for Gimatex? How have you managed to keep margins and supplies intact in this situation? Your advice to the industry? Yes, the prices have skyrocketed in the last one and half year particularly more so after the Corona Pandemic, it has been very complicated for spinners if we consider today’s cotton price we do not find any margin in terms of Yarn spinning for the reason that costs have signifi- cantly gone up in terms of labour, power as well as cost of all other inputs. Yes, we have been able to keep our margins only because of the right timing of fibre purchase and ensuring that quality cotton is acquired through our ginning operations. A much-used statement – Weaving and processing are the weak links in the Indian textile industry. Your views, given that you are an integrated textile manufacturer. Yes, definitely the downstream processes like weaving / knitting and their processing as well as apparels re- main to be the weak links in the Indian textile industry. If we see besides us ie Bangladesh, we see that they have really developed themselves in terms of garment manufacturing which is ensuring a pull for the back- ward processes starting from spinning and therefore the country is self-sufficient in itself in catering or ex- panding in textile operations in time to come. In India now with the aid of PLI and many other incentives scheme like RODTEP, ROSTCL, we see some shift hap- pening towards large scale manufacturer coming in the field of garmenting where we need corporate entities to make an efficient garment operation. Any expansion, diversification plans? Recent investment - Bela Unit for spinning 32000 Spin- dles for Viscose & Cotton Compact yarns, Wani Unit - Open end Unit for making PC & Cotton Coarse count yarns (7 to 20ne), Processing Unit Ahmedabad, Dholka - Soft Flow machines for processing of Viscose based fabrics. Upgradation of ETP to ZLD (Zero Liquid Dis- charge) setup, along with MEE & Sludge dryer. Upcoming expansion - New 32,000 Spindles & new air- jet looms 120 and weaving preparatory How do you expect the Russia-Ukraine conflict to impact the Indian and international textile industry? How are you preparing to safeguard your interests? Advice to the industry? I am yet to exactly understand how this will impact but given the current scenario it seems that this war is go- ing to last pretty long and it will definitely affect the consumer interest in European countries; therefore I believe India’s exports to Europe will definitely get af- fected in short term as well as long term. Yeah, my advice to the industry in the current scenario would only be to ensure that the customer base ex- pands from European Nations to other alternatives like South American and far Eastern countries as well so that we are able to hedge our rest in case Europe or some Western countries try to sanction India for taking a neutral stand on Russian Ukraine conflict. You should also try and ensure that whatever market is being cre- ated because of China plus one policy is also garnered by Indian operations or Indian products.
  • 49. 49 TVC | APRIL 2022 Gimatex, IN SILVER JUBILEE YEAR, READY TO SPIN MORE SUCCESSES TVC Editorial Team It was a small beginning for Gimatex in 1997 with 25,000 spindles, and today with a turnover of over Rs. 1600 crore, Gimatex’s integrated units are ready to spread wings with new projects and products on all its fronts. G imatex Industries Pvt Ltd celebrated 25 years of its existence recently at its plants near Nag- pur with grandeur and pomp. The company, which is engaged in the manufacturing of cotton yarn, blended yarn, fabrics and cotton seeds oil, has come a long way, its journey marked with great achievements and landmarks. March 25, 2022 was a grand day for Gimatex with the inauguration of new plants and launching of new prod- ucts. And it was at the presence of the chief guest, Mr. Sanjay Jayavarthanavelu, CMD of Lakshmi Machine Tools and Guest of Honour Mr. Ajay Arora apart from a crowd of its workforce, total of which today counts to 5000. Gimatex Industries Pvt. Ltd. was established in 1993 and was earlier known as Rai Saheb Rekhchand Mo- hota Spinning & Weaving Mills Limited (RSR). After the realignment of family ownership structure in 2005, the new entity of GitmaTex came into being. The company has five manufacturing facilities, with four located at Hinganghat, Yerla, Wani & Bela near Nagpur and one in Ahmedabad. Gimatex is not only one among the oldest and most successful companies in the textile industry in India but has a remarkable growth potential. Gimatex’s triumphs are on many fronts. It recorded a turnover of over Rs. 1600 crore in 2021-2022. To- day Gimatex is a totally integrated unit with Ginning, Spinning, Weaving and Processing units under its roof. Their plants are situated in the core of cotton develop- ing belt of India which guarantees more limited lead times and quality choice of its natural materials. The organisation has already expanded into the area of scientific cotton-seed processing by setting up a first Gossypol free cotton seed protein feast plant alongside a coordinated cotton oil treatment facility. The compa- ny’s authorised capital stands at Rs 1500 lakh and has 75.0% paid-up capital which is Rs 1125 lakh. Mr. Ajay Arora was welcomed by Mr. B. K. Mohota. Mr. Ajay Arora said he has noticed the energies and en- thusiasm in the Mohota family and their labour force to carry on the heritage for an additional 125 years with the equivalent energy and excitement. Mr. Sanjay Jayavarthanavelu stated that the progress of the Mo- hota family in the unpredictable material business has been on account of its discipline, central and long haul vision. Mr. B. K. Mohota in his invite address expressed that since its beginning Gimatex has the track on a steady extension and fast development way. Express- ing that the material business overall and Gimatex in particular is going through a brilliant time, Mr. Mohota informed that from a turnover of Rs. 70 crore in 1997, Gimatex went on to clock Rs. 1650 crore turnover in the 2021-2022 financial year. Corporate profile
  • 50. 50 TVC | APRIL 2022 Mr. Prashant Mohota stated that the general vision of Gimatex is to give premium quality items to its insight- ful clients by utilising most recent logical innovations with the most aggressive way at all conceivable time. Giving details of the two new plants, Mr. Prashant Mo- hota informed that Gimatex has set-up another 32,000 axle turning unit having conservative cotton yarns and its mixes (particularly cellulose) with addition of one more 32000 shaft unit for polyester blends. The subsequent plant is the new Open-End Unit with most recent in material innovation with a capacity to utilise reused strands with the most elevated level of pollution control, he informed. Dwelling upon the creation limits of the Gimatex, Mr. Prashant Mohota informed that the turning limit is 2 lakh axles with a 3000 tons limit for every month. Stating that Gimatex has continuously been on a development binge, Mr. Vineet Mohota informed that the capital speculation during the 2022 has been reserved at Rs. 820 crore. The 2022-2023 turnover is projected at Rs. 1850 crore containing Rs. 600 crore of products and equilibrium Rs. 1250 crore of homegrown deals, he said. Mr. An- urag Mohota said foraying into clothing area has sat- isfied the Gimatex vision of serving the whole store network from ‘Homestead to Fashion’. Gimatex has primarily a large spinning capacity catering to the variety of needs of the customers. Starting from 25000 spindles in the year 1996, today the company has more than 100,000 spindles with utmost modern production and testing facilities which delivers supe- rior total value to the customer. The state-of-the-art machines have been imported from Switzerland, Ger- many, Japan etc. and is managed by top technocrats in the country. Its machinery profile tops all brands: Blow Room – LMW & Trutzschler with Automatic Bale Plucker, Unimix, CVT; Contamination Detector – Uster Securomat SP-S; Carding – LMW LC 300 A, LC 333 & Trutzschler DK 800; Drawing – LMW RSB 851 & Riet- er RSB D-35; Combing – LMW LK 250, LK 54 & Rieter E65; Sizing / Warping – Benninger Direct & Sectional Warping Machine, Benninger Sizing Machine; Humidi- fication – Luwa; Looms – Toyota Airjet JAT710, Picanol Omni Plus (with quick style change) – 125. Gimatex has been a leading supplier of woven textile fabrics for various industrial and consumer use. The huge capacity and advantage of in-house spinning makes sure that the cost and quality advantages are transferred to the customer with on-time deliveries. Its quality policy is to consistently meet or exceed its cus- tomer’s expectation for quality product & performance by continual improvement of processes & systems. The group has carved a niche for itself by investing in lean manufacturing processes appropriate information technology tools & operation research tools. Further, state-of-the-art manufacturing facility and quality monitoring system ensures the delivery of superior to- tal value to the customer. Its quality assurance person- nel are well qualified & experienced in quality control and are devoted all the time for collecting & analysing data from online and offline quality monitoring system. Located in the heart of cotton woven fabric process- ing centre i.e. Ahmedabad, Gimatex Processing unit houses modernised machinery capable of producing innovative & quality fabric for Printing and Dyeing. Va- riety of fabrics like Cotton, Viscose, Polyester and their blends, for making Dress material, Suitings, Shirtings, Bed Sheets, etc. to cater demands of Indian as well as export markets. It is also equipped with fully mod- ern Chemical Laboratory with testing equipment like Computerized Colour matching, Tensile Strength Tes- ter, Tearing Strength Tester, Laundrometer for wash- ing, crock meter, sublimation fastness tester. Baby pad batch dyeing machine, Sample Rotary Printing Ma- chine, Colour Cabinet etc. Located in the heart of cotton woven fabric processing centre i.e. Ahmed- abad, Gimatex Processing unit hous- es modernised machinery capable of producing innovative & quality fab- ric for Printing and Dyeing.
  • 51. 51 TVC | APRIL 2022 Plot no. 244/25, Sajitha Complex, GIDC, Umbergaon-396171 Amritlakshmi Brand stands for its consistency self- researching, Designing, and Manufacturing, Selling and After-Sale Service all under one roof with experts capable of prompt Service to each Customer through an excellent network of Agents. With Amritlakshmi You are Always Ahead!! The Oldest – The Most Experienced – Most Dependable- For Any Yarn, Ay Loom, Any Width ◘ Warping, Sizing Beaming Systems Either 2 Tier (Creel to Beam System) 3 Tier (Beam to Beam System) for Continuous Filament Yarn – Polyester /Nylon / Viscose ◘ Direct Warper with Creel for Spun Yarn (Cotton/ Blended, PV, PC, Jute) ◘ Multi Cylinder Sizing Machine for Spun Yarn (Cotton/ Blended, PV, PC Jute) ◘ PLC Controlled 7-9 Motors, Inverter Driven Double Sow Box Multi Cylinder Sizing Machine for High Speed Shuttle less Loom for Varieties of Yarn. ◘ Pre-Beaming (Warping) for Jute Yarn ◘ Dressing Machine (Sizing) for Jute Yarn ◘ Direct Beaming from Creel for Industrial Yarn fabric/Carpet/ Jute/Flex/PP/ Nylon Yarn/ Size Chemical Preparation Plant for Sizing. +91 - 80800 62392 amritlakshmi@amritlakshmi.com www.amritlakshmi.in Range of Products
  • 52. 52 TVC | APRIL 2022 USHA INTERNATIONAL IS INCREASING FOOTPRINT IN EAST: P.K. SAHNI Ushahasbeenthemarketleaderinthesewingmachine category for decades and is the harbinger of revival and growth of the sewing machine industry. This enduring leadership position has been possible because of the company’s ability to constantly innovate, anticipate, and even create consumer demand, said Mr. Parveen Kumarr Sahni, President, Sewing Machines Business, Usha International, in an exclusive interview with the Textile Value Chain. Excerpts: How did COVID-19 impact the business of your company in the last two years? How did it manage? While COVID-19 had an adverse impact on many busi- nesses, for the sewing machine category it proved to be the opposite. As consumers looked to cope with the ‘new normal’, they invested in creative hobbies and passions that brought joy to them as they stayed cooped in homes shuffling between household chores and office work. One of the hobbies that gained favour during the pandemic-driven lockdowns was sewing, not just for functional purposes but also as a means of creative DIY – another trend that really saw increas- ing popularity during this period. For countless people across India, sewing became an enjoyable hobby, a pleasant way to explore one’s creative potential that also kept stress and anxiety at bay. In fact, many turned this passion into a viable business while confined to their homes. All of these saw a huge surge in the Do- It-Yourself/hobby culture, giving an impetus to sewing machine sales. Being the pioneers of the sewing ma- chine in India, Usha realised the need of the hour – to tutor and guide those keen on learning and honing their sewing skills not only on how to choose the sew- ing machine that would cater to their needs but also how the machine works. The wide range of sewing machines Usha offer caters to the varying needs across new as well as experienced hobbyists – from the basic to the really high-end – each of which is user-friendly and enables the custom- er to take their skills up many notches. Usha offers free online ‘Learn Create’ sewing tutorial videos on Ush- aSew.com, which are easy-to-follow extensive step-by- step demos for all consumers. The pandemic also opened up another business verti- cal to the sewing industry -- textile factories across the country began to also cater to the demand for a com- Interview- Usha International
  • 53. 53 TVC | APRIL 2022 pletely new category of products -- masks and PPE kits. All of these led to an upward growth curve for house- holds as well as industrial sewing machines. What are the new launches in sewing ma- chines? What is their USP? At Usha International, we keep consumers at the core of our business – developing products that help fulfil their needs/aspirations thus transforming their lives. Our aim is straightforward – to be the best at what we do to build the category as well as the industry as we offer products that combine the latest innovation in design, technology, and performance. Listening to consumer feedback and insights and their evolving preferences, Usha International has launched a slew of innovative, technologically advanced user-friendly sewing machines in the last couple of years each cater- ing to a specific audience – Quilt Magic, Design Craft, Sew Magic, MC 8200 QCP SE, Style Stitch, and Mys- tique and Usha Memory Craft Skyline S-9 with Artistic Digitizer and Memory Craft 9850, Usha 6700P, Usha Memory Craft 550E. These machines cater to the needs of growing num- bers across hobbyists and commercial establishments across the country, offering a range of technological- ly superior features to up the ante for serious sew- ists, who want both precision control and perfection. Equipped with Japanese technology, each of these machines is extremely user-friendly making it easy for consumers to take their creativity to the next level. Additionally, all the new embroidery machines from Usha come with the Artistic Digitizer, a user-friendly embroidery designing software that is compatible with both Windows and iOS, simplifying digitization of im- ages, and enabling specialised embroidery like Stipple fill, Net fill, Array fill, and Monogramming. These ma- chines also allow free-motion embroidery for all tex- tile arts, quilting, dressmaking, home furnishings, and more. It’s the ultimate tool in the hands of the right user, to transform the ordinary into the extraordinary, using creativity and skill. Give us details of the evolution of the sewing machines industry in India – growth, trends, and forecast. The sewing machine industry in India has seen a renais- sance of sorts in the last few decades with consumers rediscovering sewing as a hobby. With the evolution of the sewing machine from the manual black machines of the yore, today, we have a slew of high-tech auto- mated sewing machines catering to the varied needs of the consumers from the simple to the complex. This perception of sewing has undergone a transfor- mation and the new age machines have set off a re- vival of sewing as a life-skill, an art, a creative hobby, and a Do-It-Yourself (DIY) trend. For Usha Internation- al, which has been the pioneer and market leader in the sewing machines industry in India for decades, the growth has majorly come from developing products that cater to the needs of ever-evolving consumers. We are constantly learning from what customers tell us, aspirational trends, and therefore offering products that further grow this market. New products are de- signed keeping in mind explicit needs to enable sewing enthusiasts to do more i.e. stitching, embroidery, and quilting. In fact, we witnessed a healthy growth of approximate- ly 15% in our sewing machines business in 2020-21 and grew substantially in the Automatic Zig Zag (white ma- chines) category, gaining over 65% market share in this category in FY 20-21. As consumers continue to evolve, our focus is to offer better and more evolved products and engage with our consumers by creating a 360* eco-system that offers them help in selecting the right machine for themselves, as well as teaching sewing skills through innovative platforms and associations. Target markets and how much growth is con- tributed from the specific market? As a brand, Usha International caters to audiences across India, agnostic of age, gender, and geography. We offer machines suitable for kids as young as 8 years, all the way up to senior citizens in their 70s – basically, everyone who wants to learn, grow, create, and fur- ther their passion for sewing. Demography-wise, we have a very loyal and strong customer base both in rural and urban markets across the country. Going by recent trends that we have wit- nessed, people in the southern region are more in-