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TE TILEX
VALUE CHAIN
APRIL 2018 Volume 6 Issue 4
Registered with Registrar of Newspapers under | RNI NO: MAHENG/2012/43707
Postal Registration No. MNE/346/2018-20 published on 5th of every month,
TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN posted at Mumbai, Patrika Channel Sorting Office,Pantnagar, Ghatkopar-400075,
posting date 12/13 of month | Pages 52
ROCESSING SECTOR
Interview : Schoch Reeds India Pvt. Ltd.
Cotton, Yarn : Domestic/ Export,Market Report :
Surat, Fabric, Cotton Weather Yeild Forecast- May 2018
MohairSustainable Fibre :
Impact of weave on functionalTechnical Article :
properties of fabric
Fashion Products DevelopmentFashion Focus :
By Inspiration Of Indian Folk Art And Craft Designs
Few Fibres/Yarn brandsProduct Innovation :
Maharashtra and Andhra PradeshState Policy Comparison :
www.textilevaluechain.com2 March 2018
3www.textilevaluechain.comMarch 2018
4 5 6
Farm to Fashion, Indian Textile Global Summit is an initiative to provide a platform for the entire textile industry. Farm to Fashion is a three-
day event scheduled on 4-5-6 May 2018 encompassing the following:-
Leading Textile Manufacturers, Traders, Distributors and Suppliers
Entire product value chain - Farm to Fashion, viz. Cotton, Spinning, Ginning, Weaving, Knitting, Yarn, Fabric Processing, Digital Printing,
Garments & Apparels
EXHIBITION - A SHOWCASE OF
BEST OF INDIAN FABRICS, IDEAS,
OPPORTUNITIES & POTENTIAL
Leading textile under one roofstakeholders of
Exhibitor Benefits:
Stall Entitlements:
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?Three complimentary Delegate passes to a content-rich conference (incl. of
meals)
?One fashion show entry pass
?50 Invitation cards to your prospective buyers
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?1 Electric point of 5 amp. 1 carat of small water bottles & 1 waste paper bin
?Fascia Branding
?Reimbursement: For Hotel stay - up to Rs. 2000/-.
For Air fare - up to Rs. 5000/- against Boarding Pass. (Only for one person)
CONTENT RICH CONFERENCE WITH
GLOBAL SPEAKERS &
TECHNICAL SESSIONS
Learning & imbibing the innovations
?Access to content rich conference, 17 technical sessions and
global speakers
?Fashion Show with Gala Dinner
?Industry Visit to Composite Textile Unit
?Café Corner – Chance to personally meet some of the renowned
speakers
?White Paper – containing the Vision Document 2030 for the
textile industry
www.farmtofashion.co.inFor more Information and Online Registration
For Delegate Registration
+91 82600 60082 info@farmtofashion.co.in*
For Exhibition Stall booking
+91 97129 76880 info@farmtofashion.co.in*
Category Fees till 1st May 2018 On Spot
Delegate Rs. 5,900 Rs. 7,080
Corporate
(Minimum 5 registrations)
Rs. 4,720 Rs. 5,900
Student Rs. 2,360 Rs. 2,360
Delegate Registration
Inclusive of all taxes
?150+ Renowned Exhibitors
?Exhibition with focus on best of Indian Fabrics
?Networking opportunities with national & international market players
Entry to the exhibition is Free.
(Registration necessary)
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11www.textilevaluechain.comApril 2018
APRIL 2018 ISSUE
CONTENT
Advertiser Index
INTERVIEW
44- Devendra Bamb , Plant Manager & Sales of Schoch Reeds
India
COVER STORY
15- Is Maharashtra Textile Policy Going In Right Direction??? By
Avinash Mayekar
17-Processing Sector of India & Industrialist Views
40- Vidharbha:The next emeging Textile & Clothing Hub by Dr.
Hemant Sonare
MARKET REPORT
19- Yarn Report- Basic Textiles Export Recovers In February
20- Yarn Report- Global textile pricing trend in March
21- COTTON SPIN: The China Syndrome: A nuclear meltdown?
22-Cotton Fibre Procurement By India’s CCI Rises Eight-Fold
22- Surat Report
23- Cotton Weather (Yield Forecast) May 2018
24- Fabric Market Report By Kirti Shah
SUSTAINABLE FIBRE
25- Clothing from Mohair Fibre by N.N. Mahapatra
FASHION FOCUS
28- Fashion Products Development by Inspiration of Indian Folk
Art And Craft Designs
TECHNICAL ARTICLE:
32- Impact Of Weave On Functional Properties Of Fabrics
ASSOCIATION NEWS
14- Textile Commissioner Inaugurates SRTEPC Regional Office
in Coimbatore
34- VDMA: German Technology meets Indian Textiles and Non-
wovens
27- INNOVATIONS: Few New Innovations In Fibres & Yarn 2018
Exhibition Mumbai
SHOW REPORT
35- 9TH ASIAN TEXTILE CONFERENCE (ATEXCON)
35- TAI –Vidarbha 15th International & 73rd All India Textile
Conference
38- Comparison of State Textile Policies Between Maharash-
tra and Andra Pradesh
42 - SHOW CALENDAR
EDITORIAL TEAM
Editor and Publisher
Ms. Jigna Shah
Chief Editor
Mr. Bhavesh Thakar
Editorial Assistant
Mrs. Namsha
Graphic Designer
Mr. Anant A. Jogale
INDUSTRY
Mr. Devchand Chheda
City Editor - Vyapar ( Janmabhumi Group)
Mr. Manohar Samuel
President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries
Dr. M. K. Talukdar
VP, Kusumgar Corporates
Mr. Shailendra Pandey
VP (Head – Sales and Marketing), Indian Rayon
Mr. Ajay Sharma
GM RSWM (LNJ Bhilwara Group)
Mr. Avinash Mayekar
Consulting Editor
Dr. N.N. Mahapatra
President, Colorant Ltd.
EDUCATION / RESEARCH
Mr. B.V. Doctor
HOD knitting, SASMIRA
Dr. Ela Dedhia
Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College
Dr. Mangesh D. Teli
Professor, Dean ICT
Dr. S.K. Chattopadhyay
Principal Scientist and Head MPD
Dr. Rajan Nachane
Retired Scientist, CIRCOT
Back Page : Raymond
Back Inside: DN Associate
Front Inside: Raysil
Page3:FARM TO FASHION
Page4: Sanjay Plastic
Page5:SGS Innovation
Page6: NonWoven Tech Asia 2018
Page7:Sujal Enterprise
Page8:TECHNOTEX
Page9: LRT
Page10: GENTEX
Page 14: Kaisokki
Page 18 : Textest Instrument
Page 31: Tomsic
Page44:SITEX
Page45:TEXOCAM
Page46:SKBS
Page47:TECHMECH
Page48: VORA Associate & AMITH Garment
Page49: N23 TEX MACH INDIA
Page50:ITMA ASIA 2018
www.textilevaluechain.com12 April 2018
EDITORIAL
Ms. Jigna Shah
Editor and Publisher
All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of
any of the content from this issue is prohibited
without explicit written permission of the
publisher. Every effort has been made to ensure
and present factual and accurate information.
The views expressed in the articles published in
this magazine are that of the respective authors
and not necessarily that of the publisher. Textile
Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely
errors that might occur or any steps taken
based in the information provided herewith.
Registered Office
Innovative Media and Information Co.
189/5263, Sanmati, Pantnagar,
Ghatkopar (East), Mumbai 400075.
Maharashtra, INDIA.
Tel : 	 +91-22-21026386
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Email: 	info@textilevaluechain.com
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Web: 	 www.textilevaluechain.com
Owner, Publisher, Printer and
Editor
Ms. Jigna Shah
Printed and Processed by her at,
Impression Graphics,
Gala no.13, Shivai Industrial Estate,
Andheri Kurla Road,
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Mumbai 400072,
Maharashtra, India.
Increase fibre consumption will
accelerate the growth of industry
	 Indian Textile & Apparel industry aiming for USD 300 Million mark by 2025 considering export and do-
mestic market sales. The increase of the world fibre market consumption was 3.2% up to 104.8 million tons in
2017 end according to preliminary calculation. Oil-based synthetic fibres had the biggest share with 64.2%, Cel-
lulosic and protein-based fibres consist of cotton share around 24.1%, wood-based cellulose fibres share around
6.2%, other natural fibres are around 4.4% and wool is around 1.1%. According to this statistic, Cotton & synthetic
fibre dominate the world for around 88%. CAGR for Synthetic fibre is 3-4 %, Cotton is 1-2%, Cellulosic fibre is 5-6
%. Textile consumption in Industrial / Developed countries is 28-31Kg / capita, Developing countries 7.9-12 kg/
capita. Approximate Market consumption by 3 regions are AMEA (Asia, Middle East, Africa) is 37%, Europe & USA:
36% , ROW : 27%
	 Fibre consumed in apparel, home textile, technical textile, intimate apparel, active wear, etc. trend to
high-tech clothing and comfort leading to more use of special polyester and wood based fibres. Fibre brands are
now connecting directly with apparel brands, retailers and enthusing consumer by B2C Advertising campaign.
Today Consumers can associate themselves with apparel brands but not fibre brands. New revolution is on the
way, where dynamics of textile industry will change soon because today’s consumers are more aware and con-
scious due to faster connectivity through social media and internet. Today’s youth are also environment / ecology
conscious so they demand sustainable products in their all walks of life.
	 Textile has a great future in south Asian market due to good infrastructure for manufacturing process,
expertise human skill, more population more market opportunity and cost advantage over the world due to de-
veloping country.
We will start our new financial year with a positive and long term vision. Wish you Happy and Productive 2018-
2019...!
13www.textilevaluechain.comApril 2018
Dr. Kavita Gupta, IAS, Textile Com-
missioner inaugurated the new
Regional Office of The Synthetic &
Rayon Textiles Export Promotion
Council (SRTEPC) in the premises
of Southern India Mills’ Association
(SIMA) in Coimbatore on 16th March
2018. Speaking at the inauguration,
Dr. Kavita Gupta said that when the
production of textile and clothing
products doubles in 2025 in value
terms, the fibrerequirement should
also increase tremendously.
Dr. Gupta further stated that the do-
mestic textile and clothing industry
market is about US$ 110 billion and
exports are about US$ 40 billion.
She informed that the textile Ministry
has set a target of US$300 billion by
the year 2025.
She remarked that Cotton and Man-
made Fibresblends are coming a in
a big way and so the scenario is not
cotton vs Manmade sectors, but both
the sectors are complementary to
each other and should go hand in
hand.
Speaking on the Rebate of State Lev-
ies she said that the Ministry has got
further allocation of about Rs. 900
crore and the same will be released
soon. She also said that the Ministry
is also pursuing with the Government
on the additional funds required for
the Scheme.
She stated that the office of the Tex-
tile Commissioner has given propos-
als related to Technology Mission on
cotton and Technical textiles to the
Textile Ministry.
A Seminar on “Emerging Scope for
Man-made fibre textiles –Growth &
Future Sustainability” was also held
on the occasion. Shri Sri Narain Ag-
garwal, Chairman, SRTEPC; Shri P.
Nataraj, Chairman, The Southern In-
dia Mills’ Associaiton (SIMA); ShriRo-
nak Rughani, Vice Chairman, SRTEPC;
Shri Anil Rajvanshi, Convenor and
Immediate past Chairman, SRTEPC;
members of the Committee of Ad-
ministration of
the Council, Shri-
Selvraj, Secretary
General, SIMA,
Shri S. Balaraju,
Executive Direc-
tor of SRTEPC and
media, etc. were
present on the oc-
casion.
The Chairman
SRTEPC in his ad-
dress on SRTEPC
Activities, Services
and Initiatives –
its role in Export
Promotion and the scope for Indian
man-made fibre
textiles said that
the Indian MMF
textile indus-
try has massive
capacities and
there is scope
for growth. The
sector has verti-
cally integrated
and exports to a
large number of countries. He fur-
ther stated that the MMF textiles Ex-
port target for the current fiscal year
isUS$ 7.5 billion.
Shri P. Natraj, Chairman, The South-
ern india Mills’ Association said that
the joint efforts of Grasim, Reliance
and SIMA in value addition of MMF
had become a success model as
larger number of weavers and lead-
ing textile had got into viscose/poly-
ester/cotton blends. He said that at
least 5 million spindles in South India
and equal value in downstream sec-
tors can be converted into synthetic.
ShriJaigopal, Managing Director of
M/s Madura Coats Pvt. Ltd. has given
a presentation on ‘Emerging Trends
in the Man-Made Fibre Textiles Trade’
and urged the participants to go for
innovations and produce Smart and
Value-addedtextile items with Man-
Made Fibres.
Dr. Jayaraman, Assistant Director
and Head of the Spinning, SITRA,
Coimbatore gave a detailed presen-
tation on ‘Perspective of the increas-
ing significance of Man-Made Fibre
Textiles’ and suggested the industry
to go for MMF textiles in view of its
properties, price fluctuations in cot-
ton fibreetc,. and offered their servic-
es in providing technology, training,
testing etc,
ASSOCIATION NEWS
Textile Commissioner Inaugurates SRTEPC Regional
Office in Coimbatore
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15www.textilevaluechain.comApril 2018
COVER STORY
Is Maharashtra Textile Policy Going In Right Direction???
Timing of Maharashtra textile policy will be the game
changer for the textile industry today.It is going to be the
tide shifting event that will further boost the Industrial in-
vestments in Maharashtra. It will help overcome all the
setbacks faced due to recent financial slow down. The tex-
tile industrial stalwarts were on a still mode avoiding any
new investments in this sector post GST announcements
thus an extra push in the form of policy was needed for
the industry. This Maharashtra textile policy therefore
kicks in exactly at the right time acting as abooster dose-
for the industry to take a chance & expand their business
in multifold.
On analyzing the table 1.1 providing details of Maharash-
tra policy we will notice that the policy has been perfectly
laid out to overcome the current shortcomings faced by
the textile industry of Maharashtra. The policy ensures
providing support in the form of subsidy to the concerned
& less developed sectors of textile. The policy has taken
care of the entire value chain. It provides 25% capital sub-
sidy to ginning, spinning & weaving due to the fact that
these sectors are already well established in the state
whereas a capital subsidy of 40% to knitting, processing,
yarn dyeing, garmenting & technical textiles to create val-
ue added products currently not much developed in the
state.
The policy further take care of the least developed textile
regions of the state mapped into 3 zones which are Vid-
arbha, Marathwada & North Maharashtra by providing
additional subsidy. So if at all an entrepreneur is putting
up a unit in the three zones identified above they will get
an additional subsidy of 10% to 20% depending on their
segment in addition to the percentage of subsidy that is
already mapped for each segment as stated above. So
ginning, spinning, weaving will get additional 10% subsidy
i.e. total 35% in these three zones whereas knitting, pro-
cessing, yarn dyeing, garmenting & technical textiles will
get additional 20% subsidy i.e. total 60% capital subsidy to
the units established in these areas. This policy of govern-
ment will thus ensureemployment generation to the local
public of the region. Moreover the abundant availability
of land in these regions will avoid overcrowding of exist-
ing textile zones.
An important & unique feature policy is that there is no
upper capital limit to the amount of subsidy that will be
sanctioned thereby giving the textile entrepreneurs a free
hand to invest into larger projects as well. Despite the fa-
vorable government policy the other issue for textile in-
vestment in Maharashtra is the high power cost of the
state compared to other states.This adds to the burden of
textile industry specifically as power is the2ndmajor cost
factor in textile industry. The policy has addressed this is-
sue by offering powersubsidy of Rs. 2/KWHfor the textile
units established in the state that will be using more than
107HP.
The benefits offered by the Maharashtra government for
the textile industry is a great initiative as the state is a
predominately cotton growing region. This policy will thus
benefit both the cotton growers giving good value to their
yield by means of forward linkage & to the industry by
ensuring easy availability of raw materials. Seeing at the
overall structure of the policy there is a great opportunity
for entrepreneurs to venture into textile sectors.
Bringing textile policy is one step towards boosting the
industry but for successful running of the textile units
there is a greater need to have supportive infrastructure.
The state government understanding this necessity has
moved one step ahead and is working towards develop-
ing world class infrastructure. The Maharashtra indus-
trial development corporation has already provided the
necessary infrastructure in industrial belts like Kolhapur,
Amravati to name a few &many new infrastructure devel-
opment projects are lined up in coming future. This sup-
portive infrastructure is not in the form of only highway
connectivity to major cities & ports but is also designing&
setting up common effluenttreatment plants (CETP)along
with basic utilities needed for the industry. During recent
magnetic Maharashtra they have displayed their model
of smart infrastructure development which would take
care of the effluent treatment, requirement of water, san-
itation & excellent road networking.
For providing readily available CETP, testing facilities, elec-
tricity, roads, water etc. MIDC will set up Integrated Textile
Hubs / Parks at Amravati, Aurangabad, Beed, Buldhana,
Jalna, Jalgaon, Nanded, Parbhani, Yavatmal and Wardha.
At least 100 ha land at each of these mega integrated tex-
tile hubs will be developed as per the textile policy 2018-
22. The promising factor from the policy is that the Ma-
harashtra textile policy will also give special incentives to
textile projects implementing environment friendly solar
and wind energy projects.
The other major challenge for the Maharashtra govern-
ment while serving to the textile industry will be ensuring
& promising the necessity like water, power consistently
for a longer duration. The government however has en-
sured that current MIDC centers are well equipped with
technologies to calculate current water capacities & total
water load that can be provided by them. The capacities
installed in common effluents are also having capabil-
ity to treat the effluent to a certain predetermined level.
Thus there will not be any overloading leading to short-
ages & downfall of the industry in future.
www.textilevaluechain.com16 April 2018
Conclusion:
Such solid policy framework & supportive infrastructure
has set the platform for world class textile industry to be
setup in Maharashtra. Also the digital platforms of gov-
ernment will ensure that the subsidy will reach the in-
dustrialist in the stipulated time frames directly in their
secured bank account. All though this textile policy has
taken some months to be launched after the lapse of pol-
icy in March 2017, the policy is been outlined with crisp
objectives ensuring the development in entire value chain
of textile. Moreover this span has helped the industry to
carry out the research on new untapped opportunities
available in textile especially in technical textile making
them ready for investments to incash the maximum ben-
efits on policy launch which is quite relevant to me in my
recent interactions with textile owners. So the policy is set,
the market is ready, its only time now for entrepreneur to
involve the best in class team & develop their textile ca-
pacities to cater to the world thereby helping the country
compete & excel in global markets. With such benefits &
support the sky is limit & let us en-cash the maximum to
reap higher profits.
Type of Tex le
Processing
(yarn,
fabric,
prin ng),
Technical
tex le
Kni ng,
Hosiery and
Garmen ng
*
Composite
Unit**
Spinning
,
Ginning,
Pressing
Moderni
za on of
powerlo
oms
New
Powerlooms
based
on latest
technology,
Weaving,
Preparatory
etc
Subsidy to units in the
General category
40% 35% 25% 25% 25%
Subsidy to units in the
SC /ST/ Minority
category
45% 40% 30% 30% 30%
Addi onal subsidy
for produc on of
Yarn, fabric and
other products from
non-conven onal
yarn
10% 10% 10% - -
For tex le projects in the Vidarbha, Marathwada and North
Maharashtra region
Addi onal Capital
subsidy
20% 10% 10% 10% 10%
Addi onal subsidy for
units having
Forward/Backward
Integra on
5% - 5% - 5%
Addi onal subsidy for
units set up in a
taluka not having any
exis ng Spinning mills
- - 5% - -
Addi onal
subsidy for new
composite unit set up
in a taluka not having
any Co- Opera ve or
Private spinning mill
- 5% - - -
All values are % of eligible amount Source: GR Maharashtra textile policy
*Construction cost of ETP / CETP / ZLD in the processing projects will be eligible for capital
subsidy.
** Composite Unit: If particulars mentioned in Column 2 are not included then 35% for
other processes andif particulars mentioned in Column 2 are included then 40% for those
specific processes
Avinash Mayekar
MD and CEO
Suvin Advisors Pvt. Ltd.
COVER STORY
17www.textilevaluechain.comApril 2018
Processing is the last value chain segment before the
garment stitched. Grey fabric have been processed with
dyes, color, prints, washes, etc to make appealing to gar-
ment manufacturer for a final garment piece. Textile Min-
istry schemes till now focused on Spinning due to abun-
dance of cotton in India which needs to be converted to
yarn, series of TUFS planned & offered for the benefits
to spinning sector. Weaving being fragmented and most
unorganized sector, only organized mills or composite
mills have taken advantage of TUFS. Processing being
highly water intensive and with lot of environmental com-
pliances, eco / sustainable issues, this sector needs high
investment for zero discharge effluent treatment plants.
In recent policy, focus can be seen from different states
to sustainable and green technology. A little brief about
processing sector scheme is as follows:
Integrated Processing Development Scheme (IPDS)
(IPDS) which provides assistance to textile processing
clusters for setting up Common Effluent Treatment Plants
(CETP) with environment compliant effluent treatment
technology wherein 7 projects have been sanctioned in
the last two years with an assistance of INR 419 crore,
covering 3000 SME units.
Amended Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme (ATUFS):
A total of 182 new projects have been approved under
Amended Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme (ATUFS)
with projected investment of Rs. 468.87 crores and involv-
ing a subsidy of Rs. 37.79 crores during the month.
State Textile Policy 2018-23 Government of Maharashtra
Projects for which the long term loan has been approved
for machinery under the centrally sponsored TUFS
scheme from the date of issuance of this Government
Resolution or thereafter till 31 March 2023.
Processing (Pre& Post)
• The existing State scheme of 25% of project cost or Rs.
37.5 crore whichever is lower for projects, approved un-
der centrally sponsored IPDS scheme (Government Reso-
lution dated 10/02/2015) will be continued.
• Capital subsidy will be given for machinery required for
ZLD / ETP / CETP in the processing projects.
• Processing parks including CETP will set in coastal areas
by MIDC.
• Land for hard waste disposal will be provided in respec-
tive districts.
• Processing parks including ZLD / ETP / CETP will set on
priority by the MIDC at Ichalkaranji, Malegaon and Bhi-
wandi.
• Processing projects having ZLD / ETP / CETP will be pro-
vided with electricity at concessional rates, since the costs
of operating the ZLD / ETP / CETP projects and the hard
waste disposal are very high.
• Financial assistance will be provided to institutes such as
SASMIRA and IIT to set up water free / effluent free dyeing
/ processing projects.
• Water will be reserved for processing plants, since these
plants require large volume of water.
We have taken some views from Industry contribu-
tors about the policy and processing sector. Kindly
find below views from corporate / Organized as well
as SME’s / Un-organized sector:
Mr.Rajendra Sidhpuria, Senior Manager in Processing
at Birla Century
Birla Century is dealing with cotton wet processing. Tex-
tile Policy is much beneficial for entre-
preneur. Govt. initiated to uplift the
processing units by helping and sup-
porting them. Our one of the plants is
set with TUFS scheme almost 20 years
back. Corporate units take full utiliza-
tion of the policy. Processing sector
has the bright future in India because
we are adapting and implementing
new technology. Birla Century achieves the gold certifi-
cation in India as well as internationally. Birla Century is
the first company to have Green Tag which was first ap-
proved by US.
P.E. Eshwar Director, SSM Processing Mills Ltd.
Processing Sector is in big dilemma due to GST. Input
credits not been accumulated, due to
which around 2 crore credit is pending
till date from GST Department. This is
a very big set-back.
Environment system should be cen-
tralized in all parts of India like it’s
done in south, especially in Tamil
Nadu. In south, we are following Zero
Liquid Discharge Policy.
In NCR, pollution policy is far different one to which we
follow. Pollution policy differs from state to state. And
south produces quality oriented products.
Textile Policy is good but not getting good incentive to
exporting fabrics to Bangladesh & Srilanka, While other
neighboring countries getting benefits of incentive from
their country policy. To earn more foreign exchange in
our country, we need to have better incentives of our pol-
icy. Importers don’t have much impact after introduction
of GST.
Processing Sector of India
COVER STORY
www.textilevaluechain.com18 April 2018
Mr.Jayesh Desai, Proprietor of Raj Industries
TUFS plays a vital role in textile industry and but timely
refunds is a big issue. Government
should make everything online and
secure. As summer arrives water be-
comes a major problem in Gujarat
& proper RO System must be imple-
mented by Government. Awareness
among consumer is improving for
maintaining ecological balance. Man-
ufacturers are adopting branded ma-
chines with green tag label. We expect initiative by Minis-
try to appreciate & uplift new manufacturers to promote
their brand.
Mr. Sushil Verma, MD of Kuster Calico
After going through the Maharashtra Textile Policy I am
of the opinion that this is good step by
the government to promote the Textile
Industry which is 2nd largest employ-
ment generator. The capital equip-
ment subsidy of 20 to 30% is really
going to give good boost for setting
up new industry in the state and this
would be an add-on to the 10% TUFS
subsidy which is available from central
government.
The 30% subsidy in some geographical areas is going to
be the highest subsidy announced by any state govern-
ment so far. Government should also ensure proper im-
plementation of the scheme and provide good infrastruc-
ture for setting up industry as most of the Textile Zones
will come in remote areas.
Mr Rajnikant Bachkaniwala, MD Palod Himson Ma-
chines Pvt Ltd.
Processing sector lack modernisa-
tion & decentralised in surat; going
through the bad phase after demon-
etization & GST. Market is weak. Or-
ganised processing sector in other
parts of the country is doing well.
Government’s TUFS scheme does not
have much effect in processing sector
because it has many complications like
its process and procedure which is time consuming. Gov-
ernment doesn’t put much effort in processing sector.
Mr. Dhaval Gandhi from Bianco Textile said that pro-
cessing sector requires quality water which is free from
hardness. Industry doesn’t required tanker water. Gov-
ernment should support to get finance @ 3% net interest
for Zero Discharge Effluent Treatment Plan.
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Hydrostatic Head TesterMobile Air Permeability Tester
Water Vapour Transmission Rate Tester
COVER STORY
ADVT.
19www.textilevaluechain.comApril 2018
YARN REPORT
Basic Textiles Export Recovers In February
Cotton export recovers as domestic prices recede
Falling domestic prices in prompted cotton exports to
surge in February with shipment of 10.6 lakh bales (170
kg each) as against 7.3 lakh bales exported a year ago.
The increase in February is largely due to fall in prices
and higher exports to Bangladesh. Also, some shipment
that were held back in January for no explicit reason, were
shipped out this month. Thus, during the first five months
of 2017-18 cotton marketing year, cotton exports aggre-
gated 44.1 lakh bales as against 43.3 lakh bales in the cor-
responding months of previous marketing year.
The export (FOB) price realization averaged INR 117 a kg
or US cents 84.42 per pound in February as against the
Cotlook Index ‘A’ at 88.6 per pound and spot Shankar-6 at
US cents 79.4 per pound. Spot prices have declined from
an average of US cents 82.7 in January to below US cents
80 per pound mark, large due to higher arrivals and the
peak marketing season coming to close.
Over the past 12 months, domestic prices remained above
US cents 80 per pound levels, touching a high of US cents
85 per pound in April 2017. They had hovered below US
cents 80 in the first three months of the current market-
ing season, but a crop loss report in Maharashtra and Gu-
jarat pushed them back to above US cents 80 in January.
Spun yarn and Fabric export jumps in February
Spun yarn export shipment jumped 30% In February,
while values in US$ term surged 39%. Totaled volume
shipped was 105 million kg during the month, worth US$
330 million. Unit value realization averaged US$ 3.13 per
kg, up US cents 5 from previous month, and US cents 21
up compared to last year. The surge is largely due to carry
over of January volumes into February due to tax anoma-
lies.
Meanwhile, the INR appreciated from INR 67.6 to INR 63
this February. Yarn exports to the largest buyer China,
continued to con-tract both in terms of volume and value
(2% and 4% YoY) during February. It still accounted for
20% of all yarn shipped during the month.
Cotton yarn export at 86 million kg worth US$ 275 million
(INR 1,735 crore) was up 40% in February as 70 countries
imported cotton yarn at an average price of US$ 3.18 a kg,
US cents 2 more than previous month and up US cents 19
from last year.
China reduced its import of cotton yarn from India by
1.2% in volume but up 1.5 in value terms and was top im-
porter during the month. It was followed by Bangladesh
with volume and value both more than doubling over the
year. Portugal and South Korea were the other major im-
porters, also increasing their imports from India. Pakistan
was the fifth largest destination but has been reducing its
import in recent months. 11 countries did not import any
cotton yarn from India as they did last February, but were
re-placed by seven other countries which imported yarn
worth US$ 0.50 million.
Croatia, Syria, Slovenia, Paraguay, and Mexico were
among the fastest importers of cotton yarn in February
while Bahrain, Canada and Brazil significantly reduced
their import compared to last year.
100% man-made fibre yarns exports fell in volume and
value in February. MMF yarn exports comprised 3 million
kg of polyester yarn, 1.8 million kg of viscose yarn and 0.9
million kg of acrylic yarn. Polyester yarn exports rose 11
in value while viscose yarn exports value increased 13%
during the month. Acrylic yarn exports were down 54%.
Polyester spun yarns were exported to 42 countries at av-
erage unit price of US$ 2.44 a kg. Turkey was the largest
importer of polyester yarn, followed by Egypt and Brazil.
Viscose yarn worth US$ 6.2 million or INR 39 crore was
exported in February at an average price of US$ 3.44 per
kg. Bangladesh sprang as the top importer worth US$ 1.5
million, followed by Belgium and Iran.
www.textilevaluechain.com20 April 2018
Blended spun yarns worth US$ 39 million were export-
ed in February, up 55% YoY in value terms. During the
month, 6.9 million kg of PC yarns was exported worth US$
19 million while 4 million kg of PV yarns were ex-ported
worth US$ 12 million.
Egypt, Bangladesh and Brazil were the largest importers
of PC yarn from India while Turkey was the only major
importer of PV yarns from India followed distantly by Iran.
Woven fabric shipment (exports) increased in February as
exporters extended some shipment after a sharp fall in
January. It was, however, still lower than the levels two
years ago. While spun yarn exports were also up during
the month, the rise in fabric export implies that the over-
all textile sector has leveled the previous month’s fall.
Volumes rose 12% to 354 million sq mtrs (YoY) worth US$
282 million or INR 1,774 crore. Thus, cumulative export in
the first 11 months of 2017-18, was 3,938 million sq mtr,
down 0.7% com-pared with same period a year ago. In
terms of value, woven fabric export was worth US$ 3,086
million or INR 19,585 crore.
During the month, 145 countries imported woven fab-
rics from India, topped by Bangladesh and followed by
Sri Lanka and UAE. The three together accounted for 35%
of total woven fabric shipped during the month. During
the month only eight countries
did not import any fabric as
last year. However, they were
replaced by 19 other countries
which imported fabric worth
US$ 0.9 million this February.
Nepal, Paraguay and were the
fastest growing large markets
for woven fabrics, and ac-
counted for over 1% of total
export value in February.
Source: Textile Beacon Global
Info Services
Global textile pricing trend in March
Cotton
Global cotton markets were largely driven by multiple fac-
tors in early March as the commodity captured attention
of speculative funds following USDA’s bullish to neutral
reports. Prices returned to the previous month’s highs -
to a new high, signaling higher prices. However, futures
were under pressure in the second half of March in the
absence of any fundamental news while rumors made
rounds with respect to lost markets due to the imposition
of US tariffs as the month was closing. US May futures
ended up US cents 3.11 averaging US cents 82.67 a pound
on the ICE while the new crop December contract edged
down US cent 0.20 at US cents 78.10 a pound.
Cotlook A index, the global spot benchmark gained US
cents 3.59 on the month at US cents 92.19 per pound,
despite moderating in third and fourth week.
In China, reserve auction was active but could not find
much demand as compared to previous seasons. Nev-
ertheless, the first two weeks indicated an average sale
of about 100,000 bales. Chinese were complaining that
goods offered at auction were of poor quality and had pe-
titioned the government to allow more import. The China
Cotton Index edged down 37 Yuan to 15,656 per ton (US
cents 112 a pound).
In India, cotton prices movement were mixed in March
with some specs declining and some gaining. Bench-
mark, Shankar-6 was traded at an average of INR 40,925
per candy, up INR 750 on the month while V797 was INR
2,200 cheaper at INR 27,400 per candy. Reportedly, cot-
ton planting is forecast to fall 12% in 2018-19 crop year as
pink bollworm infestation slashed farmers’ incomes and
prompted them to shift to other crops.
Cotton Yarn
Cotton yarn markets in China were under upward correc-
tion as the close of the month, although participants were
cautious overall. Offers for some best-sell products picked
up slightly, mainly for high-quality and high-count yarns,
while the prices of conventional products remained un-
changed. Yarn prices increased with 32s averaging 23.08
Yuan a kg (US$ 3.65 a kg, up US cents 3) and 40s gained at
24.05 Yuan a kg (US$ 3.80 a kg, up US cents 3) in Shengze.
In India, cotton yarn prices moderated in line with the
cotton prices in past month. 30s combed cotton yarn for
knitting fell to INR 197.50 a kg (US$ 3.04 a kg, down US
cents 6) in Ludhiana while export offers were down US
cents 4 at US$ 3.30 a kg.
Nitin Madkaikar
Textile Beacon
YARN REPORT
21www.textilevaluechain.comApril 2018
Polyester
PSF prices fell sharply in China while they were hiked in
Pakistan seeing the currency weaken sharply which made
imports costlier. PSF market in Shandong and Hebei mod-
erated with sidelined stance while in Fujian, prices moved
sideways. In India, PSF prices were raised for the month.
In Jiangsu and Zhejiang, offers for 1.4D direct-melt PSF
moderated US cents 3 to US$ 1.39-1.42 a kg, while the
same in Fujian and Shandong fell to US$ 1.38-1.45 a kg.
In India, PSF prices were raised with 1.2D at INR 96.75 a
kg or US$ 1.49 a kg and 1.4-2D at INR 98 a kg (US$ 1.50 a
kg). Polyester spun yarn offers moved down in China, up
in Pakistan and India during March. In China, 32s poly-
ester yarn offers were down US cents 2 at US$ 2.17 a kg
while 60s were up US cents 5 at US$ 2.53 a kg. 21s were
US cents 4 at US$ 2.01 a kg. In India, polyester yarn prices
were slightly down with 30s knit yarn prices at INR 132 a
kg (US$ $ 2.03 a kg, down US cents 2) in Ludhiana market.
Polyester intermediates
PTA markets in Asia were in weak fluctuation, with price
falling consecutively in all the weeks. Upstream, parax-
ylene markets changed little upwards but PTA prices
showed slight volatility but slightly weak. PTA Asian mark-
ers moderated US$ 1.75 on the month with CFR China at
US$ 769-771 per ton while offer from Taiwan/Korea were
down at US$ 785-801 per ton.
MEG prices, were on a downtrend but the fall was halted
in the last week as demand improved with gradual in-
crease in polyester production though an upward drive
was limited. Inventories in east China were still 1% up
from levels seen in late February decreased at 672 kilo
ton. MEG spot prices declined US$ 118 on the month with
CFR China at US$ 892-897 per ton and CFR South East Asia
at US$ 907-912 per ton.
YARN REPORT
Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Economist John Robinson
takes a look at cotton and tariff threats.
Back when I was in high school there was a movie called
“The China Syndrome,” about a nuclear meltdown. A few
days ago, on April 4, the real country of China did some-
thing that started off looking like a nuclear meltdown of
U.S. stock and agricultural commodity markets. 
With a few more days of market reaction under our belts,
it may not turn out to be so bad.
What China did was include cotton and soyabeans on a list
of 106 U.S. export commodities on which they are threat-
ening to impose 25 percent tariffs. This is in addition to
128 other U.S. export products previously listed by China.
These announcements have been unveiled in apparent
tit-for-tat reaction to U.S. government announcements of
tariffs on Chinese products imported into the U.S.
China’s April 4 announcement that included U.S. cotton
was initially met by a 3-cent plunge in the overnight trad-
ing of nearby ICE cotton futures contracts, which only re-
covered a little bit in that session, settling down over 2
cents. The U.S. stock market similarly was poised to open
down 500 points, but ended up rallying 700 points to
close up 230 points. In subsequent days the old crop ICE
futures contracts rose back above 82 cents.
MARKETS HATE UNCERTAINTY
Why all this volatility?  The first explanation involves the
old age that markets hate uncertainty. Waking up to a dra-
matic announcement about potentially changing funda-
mentals is a shock, so it wasn’t surprising to see a sharp
drop in stock and commodity futures markets.
But, what about the actual risk to fundamentals? On the
face of it, a 25 percent Chinese tariff on U.S. cotton im-
ports would make U.S. cotton relatively more expensive
than its competitors.  I consider our relevant competitors
to be suppliers of high quality, machine harvested cotton
like Australia and Brazil.  
So, the U.S. could lose market share to China. Does that
imply an overall reduction in U.S. exports?  The answer
is — surprise! — a bit complicated.
If it really happens, the imposition of a tariff might result
in some short-term disruption of the export market. New
export sales of U.S. cotton to China might drop off. Exist-
ing sales to China might be cancelled. But, after some ad-
justment, the overall effects may not be as bad. 
RESHUFFLING OF EXPORTS
First, if Australia and Brazil increase their exports to Chi-
na, that might create a gap that the U.S. could fill in other
countries that were expecting to import Australian or
Brazilian cotton. This suggests that the effect of bilateral
tariffs may simply be a reshuffling of cotton exports, not
a reduction. 
There is a recent precedent for this kind of reshuffling in
COTTON SPIN: The China Syndrome: A nuclear meltdown?
www.textilevaluechain.com22 April 2018
the world cotton supply chain. After 2011, the Chinese
disrupted their own domestic cotton industry with high-
priced purchases of subsequently unavailable cotton for
their reserve buildup. Chinese textile mills were having
difficulty sourcing affordable cotton supplies. 
The result was a shift to increasing cotton imports by Vi-
etnam, Indonesia, Pakistan, and other countries, which
then exported duty-free cotton yarn to China. The same
kind of pattern shift could keep U.S. exports from ulti-
mately declining in the wake of a bilateral Chinese tariff
on U.S. cotton imports.
Because U.S. cotton futures did not crash, I am assum-
ing that the Chinese announcement of possible tariffs has
not spooked the hedge fund longs who still own a lot of
ICE cotton futures.
These fund managers, like other traders on Wall Street,
may be assuming that all the tit-for-tat announcements
are just posturing for the eventual negotiation between
the U.S. and China on larger trade issues. Let us hope that
is the case.
GEOPOLITICS AND ECONOMICS
These kinds of risks are something that the U.S. cotton
industry has to live with, because it is part of a global mar-
ket, which includes geopolitics as much as economics. 
The unpredictability of such things highlights the fact that
nobody ultimately knows which way cotton prices will
go. The only thing you can know for sure is whether a for-
ward contract or a hedge on today’s futures price will be a
profitable — or at least survivable — price floor.
Higher price volatility resulted in state-owned Cotton Cor-
poration of India (CCI) recording an eight-fold rise in fibre
procurement fiscal 2017-18. It procured 1.2 million bales
(of 170 kg each) of cotton fibre under minimum support
price (MSP) and commercial operations in the last fiscal
compared to 150,000 bales in 2016-17. A third of the total
was MSP buying.
The cotton season is coming to an end and CCI plans to
buy another 200,000 bales before that, according to a re-
port in a top Indian business daily.
Private procurers had started matching the post-January
price offers by CCI, resulting in the level staying high. The
state body then auctions the natural fibre for textile mills
at the market price. The price began recovering since Jan-
uary, to trade above the MSP.
CCI estimates the output at 36.2 million bales for the com-
ing year, 0.5 million less from its last month’s estimate
of 36.7 million. Total output for 2016-17 is estimated at
33.73 million bales. (DS)
Cotton Fibre Procurement By India’s CCI Rises Eight-Fold
The Govt. is trying to reduce silk imports: Ajay Tamta
Union minister of state for textiles Ajay Tamta said the
central government is keen for silk fabrics production at
domestic level and increase exports. The opportunities in
natural fibre in the form of silk are huge in the north east-
ern states. The focus is on research and development in
sericulture in order to reduce dependence of natural silk
imports.
Tamta was in the city to attend a seminar organized by
the Southern Gujarat Chamber of Commerce and Indus-
try (SGCCI) and the Global Fabric Resource and Research
Centre (GFRRC) on ‘future opportunities in textile sector’.
He said thet he is visiting textile clusters across the coun-
try to study the market and to encourage research and
development in developing new qualities and products to
increase silk fabrics exports.
Tamta said GST is new to this country and thus there
would be some difficulties. The government has formed a
committee to address issues relating to GST. We are try-
ing to resolve technical issues in the GST portal and filing
of returns. To enhance new high speed machinery in the
industry, the govt. is trying to reduce Technology Upgra-
dation Fund Scheme (TUFS) formality.
GST impact : Yarn-Fabrics dealers tighten the pay-
ment system
Post GST(Goods and Service Tax), the payment system in
the textile business chain in the city is become better than
pre-GST period. Most of the yarn dealers and fabrics trad-
ers have set payment terms where those paying within
seven days of goods delivery are given one per cent dis-
count on the total bill amount, whereas there are interest
penalties of up to 18 per cent on late payments.
Polyester yarn trader Rakesh Shah said, GST has forced a
new payment system which is good for a healthy business
environment. The new taxation system has helped us to
introduce new payment norms as well. Before GST, the
payment system across the business chain was irregular.
Generally, we were giving payment credits for 30 and 60
days. We would not dare ask for payment from weavers,
even if they fail to pay on the promised date. But now af-
ter new tax system, weavers pay us cheque against yarn
delivery. For those paying in cash, we pay one per cent
discount on total bill. For those not paying on time, we im-
pose 18 per cent interest on late payments. Earlier, any-
one was doing business with everyone. There were many
case of defaults. Now you can’t do business with those
SURAT REPORT
COTTON REPORT
23www.textilevaluechain.comApril 2018
who are not registered under GST. Now, the business is
restricted to those who are GST registered players. Either
the trader pays in cash or cheque. There is no space for
credit in business now.
Adverse impact on textile exports due to pending GST
refunds
Several textile, chemical exporters of south Gujarat are ea-
gerly waiting for Integrated Goods and Services Tax (IGST)
refunds. The IGST refunds to the tune of Rs 500 crore are
pending for processing. Non-processing of refunds has
lead to working capital crunch among exporters and in
turn, impacting their order books. Textile exporters are
losing on business triggering a drop in exports due to
higher cost of operations and liquidity crunch. Textile ex-
ports from the region have seen a drop of over 5 per cent
for the past few months owning to limited cash flow and
increased cost of operations.
The Finished Fabrics Exporter Sanjeev Kapoor said, Fund
flow is a big challenge for exporters as they have not re-
ceived refunds under Goods and Services Tax since past
ten months. Pending refunds is an issue that continues
to have adverse impact on the industry, as it blocks work-
ing capital. Small traders are forced to seek bank loans
to meet capital needs. Fresh export orders are not being
singed up from foreign destinations. Textile export sce-
nario looks bleak and unlikely to bounce back in coming
months.
Industry Sources said, there are several issues including
discrepancies in invoice and errors in the returns that had
been filed so far which are leading to non-processing of
refunds. The government has initiated the refund for ex-
porters but still the process is slow.
Study on MMF to enhance production and consump-
tion
The Synthetic and Rayon Export Promotion Council
(SRTEPC) will prepare a study reports on Man-Made Fibre
(MMF). The study will give a road map to identify gaps and
suggest measures. It is going to be a benchmark study in
shaping the MMF textile segment in India.
The ministry of textile and the textile commissioner’s of-
fice have launched a study to promote growth of man-
made fibre (MMF) textile in India and to identify the gaps
and suggest measures during the mega event ‘Textile in
Karnataka’ last month. The study will be to understand
the successful strategies of the countries such as China,
Indonesia, Vietnam, Bangladesh and Cambodia in order
to enhance production and consumption of MMF textiles.
India is the second largest world producer of polyester
and viscose, but when it comes to export in MMF textile,
India is ranked 6th in the world. Despite having enormous
potential, strong fundamentals and raw material base,
the MMF textile exports from india as higher as other
Asian countries. The study reports will suggest measures
and innovative ideas to cater to the consumer require-
ments and improve competitiveness of Indian MMF tex-
tile both in domestic and export markets and help India
emerge as the leading country in MMF textile production
and exports.
By Mr. Bhupendra Dholakia
Here are the possible effects of weather effects in different
states, keeping in mind the dynamic processes of solar sys-
tems, elaborate sentences, astronomical matters, and an-
cient history of seasonality.)
In the first week of May, During the 1st to 3rd, there is a pos-
sibility of mild pressure of air in the ocean. Its influence re-
mains special in the states of Maharashtra, South Gujarat,
East Gujarat, Madhya Pradesh and South Rajasthan. Its neg-
ative effect can be seen in some extent. The effect of which
is seen in cotton yield.
There is a possibility of rain on the south-east coast of In-
dia between May 4 and 8. Under its influence, there is likely
to be a short hail like rain in Gujarat and many part of Ma-
harashtra. Saurashtra and Central Gujarat are experiencing
cloud-like conditions. For the maintenance of cotton stock, it
is advisable to make special efforts.
During 9 to 13 May, rain-fed weather conditions prevailed in
some parts of Gujarat, Maharashtra and Madhya Pradesh.
There is a possibility of rain somewhere. Preservation meas-
ures are essential in gaining - pressing units.
During the period between 14th and 15th May (Vaade Chau-
das-Amas), there is an increase in the proportion of the heat-
wave in the middle part of the North Gujarat and the north-
ern parts of Maharashtra. Cotton stock must be taken care
of.
The heat rises between 16 and 18 May. Air and wind and
thunderstorms will increase. A rainy atmosphere appears in
the Andaman Sea and the South Bay. The monsoon activity
goes forward. Need to take care in the cotton market.
May 19 to 22 May be seen in the cloud of pumpkin. Gujarat-
Saurashtra- The climate of Kutch and Maharashtra is like a
tropical rain. Its adverse effect is seen in agriculture.
May 23 to 26 have more heat in Northen part of India. The
Ganga & Jamna River Plateau will be hotter. Gujarat- Sau-
rashtra- Kutch- Madhya Pradesh- Heat increased in Ra-
jasthan and Maharashtra. Vertical breed of Cotton will get
push in the market.
From May 25 to June 8, the sun will remain in Rohini constel-
lation. There will be rain sprinkle in many places from 27th
to 30th May. Good Monsoon projections. There is likely to be
good impact on cotton and other commodities.
Cotton Weather (Yield Forecast) May 2018
SURAT REPORT
www.textilevaluechain.com24 April 2018
FABRIC MARKET REPORT
By Kirti Shah, Textile World
Cotton Yarn Rates fluctuating frequently and powerloom
gross rates increased by Rs.1. Sulzer looms produced fab-
ric have no change in rates as supply is more and demand
is less. In Bhiwandi, 70% looms have been shut down due
to no demand. Hence processing houses are not running
in its full capacity.
A South Grey fabric has been processed in Tarapur,
Umargaon &Ambernath but no dispatch from the pro-
cessing house due to no truck available for loading the
furnish fabric. Trucks were standing by Ahmedabad for
more than 10 days due to financial crises.
After GST; NCR, Mumbai, Ahmedabad and Surat affected
most, payments from this is still pending. So, business
slowed down without money.
Earlier in shirting 40/180/72 yarn dyed checks are in de-
mand, but it’s demand declined due to large production.
Hence manufacturers started selling in stock lot.
SULZER - RUNNING QUALITIES -APRIL 2018
S.NO QUALITY HSN CODE WT L.MTR WT
GSM
YARN TYPE WEAVE STD PRICE
EX.MILL
1 07X07/68X38 - 63 5209 625 390 OE X OE DRILL DYEING 96.00
2 10X06/76X28 - 63 5209 510 325 OE X OE DUCK DYEING 78.00
3 10X10/68X38 - 63 5209 440 275 OE X OE DRILL DYEING 70.00
4 10X10/40X36 - 63 5208 310 195 OE X OE PLAIN DYEING 51.00
5 16X08/84X28 - 47 5209 265 225 OE X OE DUCK DYEING 46.00
6 16X08/84X28 - 63 5209 360 225 OE X OE DUCK DYEING 61.00
7 16X12/84X26 - 47 5208 230 193 OE X OE DUCK DYEING 41.00
8 16X12/84X26 - 63 5208 310 193 OE X OE DUCK DYEING 54.00
9 16X12/96X48 - 63 5209 415 260 OE X OE DRILL DYEING 73.00
10 16X12/108X56 - 63 5209 470 295 OE X OE DRILL DYEING 82.00
11 16X16/60X56 - 63 5208 300 187 OE X OE PLAIN DYEING 55.00
12 2/20X10/40X36 - 48 5208 235 193 OE X OE PLAIN DYEING 44.00
13 2/20X10/40X36 - 63 5208 310 193 OE X OE PLAIN DYEING 57.00
14 20X20/60X50 - 63 5208 225 140 OE X OE PLAIN DYEING 45.00
15 20X20/60X60 - 50 5208 200 155 OE X OE PLAIN DYEING 40.00
16 20X20/60X60 - 63 5208 245 155 OE X OE PLAIN DYEING 48.00
17 20X20/60X60 - 67 5208 255 155 OE X OE PLAIN DYEING 51.00
18 20X20/60X60 - 72 5208 275 155 OE X OE PLAIN DYEING 54.00
19 20X20/60X60 - 78 5208 300 155 OE X OE PLAIN DYEING 59.00
20 20X20/60X56 - 131 5208 480 150 OE X OE PLAIN DYEING 96.00
21 20X16/108X56 - 63 5209 345 216 OE X OE DRILL DYEING 67.00
22 20X20/108X56 - 63 5209 327 205 OE X OE DRILL DYEING 63.00
23 20X20/108X56 - 67 5209 345 205 OE X OE DRILL DYEING 67.00
24 20X20/108X56 - 72 5209 370 205 OE X OE DRILL DYEING 72.00
25 30X30/76X68 - 65 5208 195 112 CARDED PLAIN DYEING 55.00
26 30X30/68X64 - 63 5208 175 110 CARDED PLAIN S.DYEING 47.00
27 30X30/124X64 - 63 5208 260 165 CARDED 2/1 TWILL DYEING 70.00
28 40X40/92X88 - 67 5208 200 118 COMBED PLAIN DYEING 68.00
29 40X40/92X88 - 72 5208 215 118 COMBED PLAIN DYEING 72.00
30 40X40/100X96 - 65 5208 205 125 COMBED PLAIN DYEING 72.00
31 40X40/100X96 - 72 5208 230 125 COMBED PLAIN DYEING 78.00
SLUB Fabrics - (Warp - Normal yarn + Weft Ringspun Carded Slub yarn)
1 10X10/40X36 - 63 5208 315 195 OE X RS PLAIN DYEING 64.00
2 16X08/84X28 - 63 5209 370 225 OE X RS DUCK DYEING 74.00
3 2/20X10/40X36 - 48 5208 240 195 OE X RS PLAIN DYEING 55.00
4 2/20x10/40x36 - 63 5208 315 195 OE X RS PLAIN DYEING 72.00
ALL PRICES ARE EX - MILL. (GST 5 % ADDITIONAL)
25www.textilevaluechain.comApril 2018
Clothing From Mohair Fibre
We all know that 2009 is named as the YEAR OF NATURAL
FIBRES. It may be vegetable fibre or animal fibre. The use
of various type of natural fibre in spinning of synthetic or
worsted yarn was at the peak from 1980 to 1990. We all
know during this decade Jayashree Textiles ( a unit of Adi-
tya Birla group ) situated in Rishra , Dist Hooghly ( West
Bengal) was the main manufacturer of Poly/wool blends
with Ramie, Flax, Hemp, Silk ,Camel hair, Angora, Mo-
hair , Pineapple etc under the able guidance of Mr Jayant
Shroff , Mr Badal Das , Mr R.N.Chatterjee and Mr Govind
Rathi . During this period the author had a chance to work
with the above pioneer people of fancy worsted yarn pro-
duction in India.
Almost during the same period the use of various type
of natural fibres was used in Poly/viscose synthetic spin-
ning at Gujarat Spinners Ltd situated in Amletha, Rajpi-
pla, Gujarat under the able guidance of Mr Asis Bagro-
dia, Mr B.K.Ametha, Mr J.S.Anand , Mr S.K.Bhatia and
Mr P.K.Choudhury . The fibres used were Flax, Jute, Silk,
Mohair, Ramie etc. During this period the author had a
chance to work with the above pioneer people of fancy
synthetic yarn production in India. All the above fancy
yarns were used in making fabrics like suiting, shirting
and dress materials like Gwalior Suitings, Raymonds, Dig-
jam, Vimal Suitings, Dinesh etc.
Although wool is by far the most important animal fibre,
there are a number of hair fibres which are of considera-
ble commercial value. These come mostly from animals of
the goat and camel families. Mohair comes from Angora
goat, one of the oldest animals known to man. Mohair is
only produced by Angora goats’ .Mohair is considered a
luxury fibre because it is a silky material and should not
be confused with Angora fibres which come from Angora
rabbits. And cashmere, which is a softer fibre obtained
from another species of goat. Until early in the nineteenth
century, Turkey was almost the sole producer of Mohair
.As the manufacture of textiles expanded during the pe-
riod of the Industrial Revolution, efforts were made to
raise the Angora goat in other parts of the world. The An-
gora goat, which originated in Turkey, has a coat of long,
lustrous hair which provides the textile fibre known as
Mohair .Much of the world’s production of Mohair is in
Turkey, South Africa and the USA. Mohair is the hair of
the Angora goat, native to the province of Angora, Turkey.
This species of goat is now raised in South Africa and the
United States, principally in Oregon, California, and Texas.
The U.S. is now the chief producing country and also the
biggest consumer of Mohair .Some domestic Mohair, par-
ticularly the Mohair obtained from Texas, is of excellent
quality.
Imported Mohair is long staple, 9 to 12 inches (230-300
mm) long and allowed a full year‘s growth before shear-
ing. Mohair is as warm as wool although it is much lighter
in weight making it ideal for traveling. Mohair is also de-
sirable due to its warmth, durability and beauty and has
been used to make garments for kings, sultans and as
part of the tabernacle in the bible.
Production –
The domestic goat is shorn twice a year, yielding a shorter
staple, from 8 to 10 inches (200 -250 mm) .They are usu-
ally clipped twice a year, providing about 1.8 – 2.3 kg (4-5
lb) of Mohair per animal at each clip. Good quality Mohair
goats will produce 10-20 pounds of Mohair per year in
two shearing’s yielding staple lengths of 4-6 inches .Im-
ported Mohair can be spun to fineness of Ne 60 in yarn
count. The highest count possible for domestic fibre is Ne
40 .The domestic fibre has a great amount of coarse, stiff
hair, known as Kemp, which does not process readily or
allow thorough penetration of dye. Quality Mohair comes
in two basic styles, a ringlet shaped lock with bundles of
fibres together and flat wavy locks. Most animals will also
have some Kemp or modulated fibres. Kemp fibres have
a hollow core ,are coarser and shorter than the Mohair
lock and will stick out of the yarn and make a garment
feel scratchy .These fibres are the “guard hairs “ that
exist to help protect the animal from the weather .Angora
goat breeders work hard to breed this out of their stock.
This may be why most Angora goats don’t like being in the
rain. With little or no guard hairs they can get wet to the
skin and need shelter from the rain especially if it is cold.
Modulated fibres tend to be as long as the Mohair and still
have some hollow characteristics but are not considered
to be as big of a problem as kemp. Therefore the quality
of the fibre varies, depending on its source and the condi-
tions under which the goat has lived.
Fleeces are graded into three types as below:
1.Tight lock - It is characterized by its ringlets and is usu-
ally very fine.
2. Flat lock - It is wavy and of medium quality.
3. Fluffy or open fleece - It is the least valuable.
As in the case of wool, Mohair contains the dead, dull fi-
bres that are known as kemps. The fibres vary in length,
depending upon the age of the goat. Mohair is typically
sold in three grades .These grades are also used as class-
es in fleece competition judging.
a. Kid – Finest of all grades .It can be in the 19-20 micron
range .Usually the first and second shearings from the An-
gora goat are kid grade. At six months ,an Angora kid will
provide fibres 10-15 cm (4-6 in ) long
SUSTAINABLE FIBRE
www.textilevaluechain.com26 April 2018
b.Yearly – Fine to medium .Usually the 3rd and 4th shear-
ings from the goat although some animals will remain
fine past this point and is considered fine adult. At twelve
months, they will be 23-30 cm (9-12 in) the goat will be
less than 2 years old.
c. Adult – While the Angora goat is not considered to be a
full adult until 4 years old, adult fleece is generally consid-
ered to be any fleece from a goat more than 2 years old.
The fibre can be fine, medium or “strong” depending on
the quality and age of the animal.
The surface of a Mohair fibre has some resemblance to
that of wool .It is covered with epidermal scales which are
anchored much more closely to the body of the fibre than
are wool scales. There are only about half as many scales
as there are on wool. Mohair has some 5-6 scales per 100
microns length of fibre, whereas fine wool will have about
Properties of Mohair Fibre –
It is two – and – a –half times as strong as wool and out-
wears it. Unlike sheep’s wool, it is not curly .It is stronger
than wool and produces hardwearing fabrics. Mohair re-
semble wool in being covered with epithelial scales and
in consisting of keratin .But the scales are more smoothly
arranged and so Mohair do not felt readily as does wool
fibre . Mohair has a circular cross-section. It is a smooth,
strong and resilient fibre. It does not attract or hold dirt
particles. Mohair fibre is more uniform in diameter than
wool fibre. It does not shrink or felt as readily as wool.
Mohair is almost non-flammable .When placed under, or
near, a naked flame, it tends to shrivel into a bead like
ash. Once taken away from the flame, burning stops in-
stantaneously. Early Teddy Bears were made from Mo-
hair because of this property and because there is less
allergic reaction to Mohair than wool. Mohair can be
twisted or bend without damaging the fibre .This is due
to its structure which established it is the most durable of
all animal fibres.
Mohair will stretch an average 30 % over its length and
then will be able to spring back into shape. Due to this
property, Mohair garments resist wrinkling, stretching or
sagging during wear. Mohair possesses great strength.
Diameter to diameter, it is stronger than steel. Mohair
fabrics are wrinkle –resistant and do not mat readily be-
cause of the natural resiliency of the fibre.
Comparison of properties of Mohair fibre:
Blending of Mohair fibres –
It is very difficult to spin 100 % yarn. So it is mixed with
other fibres to make warm, lightweight fabrics. The hair
can be used for knitting yarn. Vardhman and Oswal In-
dustries mix Mohair with Acrylic fibre by 10-15 % and
make knitting yarn which is used for making sweaters,
cardigans etc. Thick, spongy, open fabric, in plain weave,
with a very hairy texture .Its composition is usually 70 %
Mohair and 30 % wool.
Dyeing and finishing of Mohair fibre –
Like wool, Mohair is contaminated with natural grease,
dirt and vegetable impurities. These may account for as
much as one-third of the weight of the raw fibre .The
clean, scoured fibre is usually white and silky.
Acid dyes and Metal complex dyes are used for dyeing of
Mohair fibres. It absorbs dye evenly and permanently. It
dyes well and has an attractive luster .The luster of Mohair
is one of the most important characteristics .Luster is the
natural sheen of the fibre caused by light being reflected
more directly by the larger outer scales of the fibre . This
luster or sheen helps dyed Mohair resist fading caused by
time and the elements and makes it very hard wearing.
Different types of functional finishes are given to the Mo-
hair fabrics. One of them is it is made mothproof.
Uses of Mohair fibre –
Uses include fancy goods, felt hats, linings, plushes and
in blended yarn‘s for use in men’s and women‘s suit-
ing fabrics. It is very expensive. Mohair can be combined
with worsted yarn, or woven alone, to produce a very
lightweight, shiny, attractive suiting fabric. It is used for
men’s lightweight suits, dinner jackets etc. The Mohair /
wool blended fabric is bulky and can be used for warm
,lightweight lined coats ,but is best for simple wrap-over
jackets, sleeveless waistcoats ,etc. which are unlined ,and
is excellent for shawls and stoles .It is soft and may ‘seat’.
Mohair is used to a considerable extent for making plush
fabrics.
Mohair is characterized by its remarkable resistance to
properties Mohair silk wool cotton
Tenacity gm/
den
2-2.5 1-1.5 1.5-2.0 2-5.5
Elongation ,% 30-40 25-45 25-45 6-10
Density ,gm/
cm3
1.32 1.34-
1.38
1.33 1.50-
1.54
Moisture
regain ,%
13 .0 11.0 14-16 9
Acid resist-
ance
Excellent excel-
lent
excellent Bad
Alkali resist-
ance
Bad good bad Excel-
lent
Resistance to
moth/fungus
Resist-
ance to
fungus
but not to
moth
Resist-
ance to
fungus
but
not to
moth
Resist-
ance to
fungus
but not
to moth
Resist-
ance
to
moth
but
not to
fungus
U.V resist-
ance
good bad bad good
SUSTAINABLE FIBRE
27www.textilevaluechain.comApril 2018
wear .Mohair fabrics are therefore used wherever dura-
bility is the first essential. Upholstery in public vehicles,
car hoods, etc are often made from Mohair where resist-
ance to wear and tear can be combined with attractive-
ness.
In combination with wool, Mohair is often used for sum-
mer suiting. It is made into all manner of dress materials,
plushes and astrakhans.
Acknowledgement – The author is thankful to Mr Sub-
hash Bhargava FSDC (UK), MD, Colorant Ltd ,Ahmedabad
for giving permission to publish this article.
Dr N.N.Mahapatra
President
COLORANT LTD
Few New Innovations In Fibers & Yarn 2018 Exhibition Mumbai
Nimbark is known for its inno-
vative product and in this exhi-
bition we introduce the product
which contains different types
of polyester fibers & yarns. Its
gives the feel of wool as well as
warm effect, but it is much light
in weight.
Our latest Linen innovation,
more cotton & less Linen used
but it feel and look like 100 %
Linen and it’s much more cooler
then Linen specially for summer
season.
Printed dyed yarns have been
introduced in the exhibition,
which is different and better
than mélange yarns. Advantage
can be Quantity , printed yarns
can be serve with less quantity as compare to mélange
yarn.
Winsome textile believe in Sus-
tainable Fibres and fabrics, inno-
vative collection like Fabrics give
unique double shade effect in sin-
gle structure, Fabrics give unique
star like effect in galaxy, Fabrics
give unique SNOW ON A GRASS
LIKE effect on fabric surface, Injec-
tion Slub Yarn, Jaspe Yarn, Sparkle
& Shing Yarn, Solid Dyed Yarn
Product development at Kapotex continues to be one
of the key corner stones that maintain its reputation as
one of the world’s leading
carpet yarn solution provid-
ers. Manufacturing facility is
located in Sarigam Industri-
al Estate, neighboring Vapi
in Gujarat, near the city of
Mumbai Production facili-
ties are contemporary with
global standards
BRAND INNOVATION
Birla Cotsyn Introduced New Garment Brand as YVB
(YASH VARDHAN BIRLA )
Birla Cotsyn first time
launched its Garment
brand YVB ie Yash Vardhan
Birla in this exhibition. Birla
Cotsyn is one of the giant
yarn manufacturer had
integrated forwarded and
ventured into garment seg-
ment with YVB brand Suit-
ing which have wide range
of Men’s Blazers /Suits.
Suits are made up of poly-
ester & Viscose fibers.
PRODUCT INNOVATION
SUSTAINABLE FIBRE
INNOVATIONS
www.textilevaluechain.com28 April 2018
Fashion Products Development By Inspiration Of Indian
Folk Art And Craft Designs
FASHION FOCUS
Abstract
Product development in fashion segment is very chal-
lenging for the designers to innovate trends and styles
regularly , since consumer are primarily looking for new
look in purchasing of the fashion products. As India is
marked by its rich traditional heritage of tribal folk arts
and culture generated by the tribal and rural people of
India, The folk art and craft is also have continued to show
case their creative brilliance in various products. Present-
ly the art and craft in textiles like warli, madhubani, and
aari is gaining much popular among the wearer. Keeping
the importance of art and craft in this work we have made
an attempt to inspire the old crafts and painting and craft
like saura, patachithra, gond and mural painting. The in-
spired designs are incorporated in the selective location
in woven and knitted apparels by block, screen and hand
paintings. An innovative product is also undergone series
of subjective evaluation from the wearer’s perspective
and reported. The report shows good rating scale from
the subjects, the evaluation of rating scale from the ap-
parel retailer feedback and their perspective shows good
value addition from the innovative product developed
from the inspired folk art designs.
1.Introduction
Indian paintings are the so-called “folk” paintings dating
back to a period that may be referred to as “timeless”.
These are living traditions, intrinsically linked with the re-
gional historic-cultural settings from which they arise. It
has an age-old heritage that can be traced back to the
beginning of civilization on this subcontinent. It began
with cave paintings, with the natural dyes so strong that
they can still be seen today on the walls of the caves af-
ter centuries. The folk and tribal painting comes from the
remote rural and tribal regions; sometimes the artists of
these rustic works are not even educated. They lack the
basic means to attend schools, and as they are gifted with
such beautiful mean of expression by nature. The vari-
ous painting forms coming from these regions began not
just as a painting but also as a religious and social ritual
performed daily. It began with painting the walls and floor
of mud houses. They hide the belief that this purified the
ambience and pleased the deities. Various religious and
symbols were therefore seen within the painting. The
term ‘folk paintings’ here encompasses pictures made in
Indian villages by both men and women, for ornamenta-
tion of their abodes, portrayals of their gods and for their
various rituals; and, by local professional painters or arti-
sans for use of the local people. All these paintings were
produced in a variety of styles and themes. History, soci-
ology and geography infused the painting of each region
with local flavor. Their style and quality depended on the
materials available in the place in which they were exe-
cuted, these very factors that helps to identify the region.
Folk art may be defined as the art created among groups
that exist within the framework of existing society, but,
for geographical and cultural reasons, are largely sepa-
rated from the sophisticated and cultural reasons, and
the developments of their time. As a result, they produce
distinctive styles and objects for local needs and tastes
.The common stylistic characters in folk-art are prefer-
ence for simple outline and choice of typically representa-
tional lines; a simplification of colors and volumes so that
shading is eliminated; Stylization of motifs to create deco-
rative elements; and repetition of lines, of entire figures,
of dots for intensive or rhythmical purpose .Since innova-
tion plays a critical important in the apparel and fashion
product development , an attempt have been made in
developing innovative fashion products by inspiring and
implementing the Indian folk art designs in the garment
in order to bring awareness and importance of Indian
folk art by garment designing.. These designs are incor-
porated in the form of block printing, hand painting and
screen printing. The opinion about the new product de-
veloped is carried out by subjective evaluation from the
wear’s perspective and retailers.
2. Indian folk arts
2.1 Saura
Saura paintings are from the Saura tribes who live in Oris-
sa. Saura tribe is one of the oldest known communities in
India. These paintings are found on the mud walls of their
houses. The painting usually depict the daily activities in
the life of the saura’s .The Saura’s depiction of the human
form is similar to that of the warli’s and hence at times,
Saura painting are mistaken as Warli paintings. However
the two styles of painting differs distinctly in their use of
colors, background, and other details.
2.2 Gond
Gond art is characterized by the sense of belonging with
the nature; it is popularly practiced much by tribal peo-
ple of Madhya Pradesh. This painting created in this art
is bold, vibrantly colored paintings, depicting mainly flo-
ra and fauna. The colors from the char coal, cow dung,
leaves, and colored soil. If we look very closely the craft
design is made up of dots and lines.
2.3 Patachitra
Patachitra painting can be traced back to the 12th century
AD it is one of the earliest form of painting practiced by
tribal people of Orissa , it is one of the most treasured
art in India, Artist followed stylized traditional forms to
creates figures of men’s, women’s, fauna in depictions of
29www.textilevaluechain.comApril 2018
mythological tales.. Although several centuries old, pa-
tachitra continues to be a living art form practiced even
today.
2.4 Mural
The roots of the extant mural tradition of kerala could
be traced as far back as the seventh and eighth century
A.D. It is not unlikely that the early kerala murals along
with its architecture came heavily under the influence of
Pallava art. The oldest murals in Kerala were discovered
in the rock-cut cave temple of Thirunandikkara, which is
now in the Kanyakumari District of Tamil Nadu. The hall
of the cave must have once been richly decorated with
paintings. However at present only sketchy outlines has
survived the passage of years.
3. Fashion Product development methods
In this work we have taken a survey in leading apparel
retail show rooms to find any value addition has given for
the garment by Indian folk art designs. The survey is car-
ried out in five leading apparel retailer showrooms by
examine at least ten garments sample and found out any
traditional Indian folk art designs is implemented in the
garment.
As per our survey the percentage of availability of Indian
folk art designs in retail showrooms are very few as the
percentage is coming in an average of 17.4%, we have
decided to incorporate the Indian folk art designs in gar-
ments by machine and hand embroidery, hand painting,
screen and block printing . The details of designs used
and design development method are mentioned in the
table 1. Totally we have constructed eleven garments by
using woven and knitted fabrics. In each garment we have
applied the folk art designs. Subjective evaluation form
the wearers perceptive is also carried by rating scale ask
1- Poor, 2 - Average, 3-Good, 4-Very Good, 5-Excellent)
3.1 Method of applying the design in the fabrics and
garments
• Block printing: For the block printing rectangular teak
wood blocks were taken and the designs are first printed
on the paper and stuck on the block on the teakwood
piece. With the help of steel chisels of different width,
carving of the wood takes place based on the design spec-
ification, the fig 1 and 2 shows the wooden block develop-
ment. After developing the wooden blocks, the designs
are implemented in the garment by dipping the block in
the acrylic paint for printing.
• Hand painting : For the hand painting acrylic paints are
used for painting two to three coats are given, after the
completion of painting the garment is allowed to dry for
24 hours and it is pressed in the reverse side, If the press-
ing is not carried out the paint will drain off within a wash.
• Screen printing: Screen is developed with VINER HAND
ITC font style and in the font size of 36 as shown in Fig
3.After finishing the development of screens; it is placed
above the garment. It is better to place another fabric
or paper under the selected location to avoid the dye
smudge. After the screen printing, garments were al-
lowed for drying for more than a hour, garment is also
pressed in the reverse side.
3.2 Method of implementation of the folk art in gar-
ments
Table 1 Method of implementation of folk art design
Style
code
Inspiration
of Indian
folk art
designs
Product
description
Method of
implemen-
tation
Target
Group/Seg-
ment
Style 1 Saura Kurta Hand
Painting
Women’s
Wear
Style 2 Saura Stole Hand
Painting
Women’s
Wear
Style 3 Gond T Shirt Hand
Painting
Women’s
Wear
Style 4 Mural T Shirt Hand
Painting
Women’s
Wear
Style 5 Mural Skirt Hand
Painting
Women’s
Wear
Style 6 Patachitra Kurta Hand
Painting
Women’s
Wear
Style 7 Gond Swing Bag Hand
painting
Men’s wear/
Women’s
wear
Style 8 Mural Purse Hand
painting
Women’s
wear
Style 9 Gond Pillow
Cover
Hand
Painting
Home Textile
Style 10 Mural Kurta Screen
Painting
Women’s
wear
Style 11 Gond Kurta Machine
Embroi-
dery
Men’s Wear
FASHION FOCUS
www.textilevaluechain.com30 April 2018
4. Innovative folk art Apparel products and Opinion
from the wearer perspective
The eleven garments were shown to wearer to express
their opinion about the folk art design .The customer are
preferred novel design of saura and mural art where the
scale rating is very good to excellent, the wearer opinion
rating is mentioned in the fig 4. In general for other gar-
ment styles rating scale falls under good, the innovative
concept of folk art design and changing the elements
of design enhance the aesthetic appearance of the gar-
ments.
The apparel retailer is also critically examine all the
products as shown in the fig 5.the retailer expressed
positive feedback and overwhelming response in selling
of the newly innovated and value added fashion product.
Figure 3 Screen development
Fig 5. Apparel
retailer examining the
product
Fashion Product development
Saura- Kurta
(Women’s wear)
Saura- Kurta
(Women’s wear)
Mural- Kurta
(Women’s wear
Gond-T Shirt (Hand
painting
Gond- Swing Bag
(Hand painting
Mural-T Shirt Women’s
wear (Hand painting)
Mural-T Shirt Women’s
wear (Hand painting)
Mural- Purse
(Hand painting)
Mural- Wrap over skirt
(Hand painting)
FASHION FOCUS
31www.textilevaluechain.comApril 2018
CONCLUSION
We have successfully developed eleven innovative fashion
products by inspiring the Indian folk arts. The products
developed were taken for opinion from the customer by
conducting the subjective assessment. The subjective rat-
ing of eleven products falls in the scale rating of good to
excellent for all the products. The is a overwhelming and
good response from the retailer perspective, the retailer
is also suggested that to concentrate more on accuracy
of the hand painting. As the cost of developing product
is quiet less, designers and new product apparel product
developers will have the huge space in the market for the
development of folk art inspired product. Presently con-
sumer preference is focusing more on the amalgamation
of ethnic and modern design outfit .New innovative folk
art products will have good and wider scope in the niche
market segment of fashion product development and ap-
parel retail space.
References cited
1. Shailaga D. Naik, “Traditional embroidery of India”, A.P.H Publishing
corporate, 2012.
2. Elaine stone, “The dynamic of fashion”, Fairchild published, 2004.
3. S. Saimen John “Traditional knowledge of folk crafts in Tamil Nadu”,
Indian Journal of Traditional knowledge. Vol 9(3), July 2010, pp 443-447.
4. Sivapriya Sekar, “A study on selected folk art forms respects to Indian
fashion”, International journal of interdisciplinary research and innova-
tions, Vol 2, issue 3, pp (73-78), July 2014.
5. C.P. Patel, “The Saura and the panoramic painting”, Orissa the review,
Jan 2005.
6. “Evaluation study of tribal and folk arts and culture in West Bengal”,
Orissa, Jharkhand, Chatiskar and Bihar.
7. Hari Chauhan, “Wood carving from Pabbar valley”, Indian journal of
traditional knowledge. Vol 4(4), Oct 2005, pp 380-385.
8. Sajnani Manohar, “Encyclopedia of Tourism Resources in India”, Vol 2,
(2001).
9.	 Jaya Jaitly,” Crafts atlas of India”,Niyogi Books, 2012.
10.	www.myindianculture.com
11.	www.indianfolkarts.com
12.	www.archive.india.gov.in
13.	www.ignca.gov.in
Acknowledgement
The authors acknowledge the support given by the Man-
agement, the Principal and Head of the Department of
Apparel Technology, PSG Polytechnic College for their
encouragement and support in completion of this work.
Also we thank our students of Apparel Technology M.
Dharin, S. Karthik and R. Pavithra devi who contributed
for this work.
A.N. Sai Krishnan and V. Chandrasekaran
Department of Apparel Technology,
PSG Polytechnic College,
Coimbatore 641 004, India
E-mail: vijayysai@gmail.com
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www.textilevaluechain.com32 April 2018
INTRODUCTION	
There are seven major parameters of a fabric structure
which govern the properties of the fabric - type of fibre,
linear density of yarn, epi x ppi and fabric weave. The
weave of a fabric depends on its end use, which impacts
the functional and aesthetic properties of the fabric to a
greater extent. Therefore a coherent design of a fabric in-
volves understanding of correlation between fabric struc-
ture and its functional as well as aesthetic properties. The
properties of a fabric vary with weave due to introduction
of parameters like float length and number of cross-over
points. The purpose of this study is to investigate the ef-
fect of weave on different physical properties of fabric.
METHODOLOGY
The weaves considered for this study were Plain, 2/1 Twill,
2/2 Twill, 3/1 Twill and 5E Satin. All the fabrics have same
fibre, count and construction – 30s Modal having a con-
struction of 72 x 72, along with same machine parame-
ters. The weave designs of the fabrics are shown in the
figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5.
Figure 4.3/1 Twill
Figure 1. Plain Figure 2. 2/1 Twil Figure 3. 2/2 Twill
Figure 5. 5End Satin
S r .
No.
Warp Weft Weave EPI PPI
1 30s Modal 30s Modal Plain 72 72
2 30s Modal 30s Modal 2/1 Twill 72 72
3 30s Modal 30s Modal 2/2 Twill 72 72
4 30s Modal 30s Modal 3/1 Twill 72 72
5 30s Modal 30s Modal Satin 72 72
Table 1. Fabric Parameters
The yarns were sized prior to weaving. The size box is
electrically heated and the temperature is electronically
controlled. Roller type electrically-heated drying through
contact is achieved. The size recipe that was taken is as
follows:
PVA 2 Kg
Water 30 Kg
Size Box Temperature 90 °C
Drying Temperature 100 °C
Table 2. Sizing recipe
The trials were taken on CCI Automatic Sampling Loom
SL8900. Details of the loom are given below:
Weving Width 18 inches
Speed / RPM 30 RPM
Shedding Dobby Shedding. Maximum 20 heald
frames driven pneumatically by air cyl-
inders
Weft Insertion Single Side Flexible Rapier
Weft Selector Maximum 8 colours electronic weft se-
lection device
Selvedge Leno
Table 3. Loom parameters of CCI Automatic Sampling
Loom SL8900
After being woven, the fabrics were pre-treated with iden-
tical processing conditions and parameters.
Process
Route
Processing Condition Machine
1. SINGEING Speed 70mpm two rounds. Singeing
2. DESIZING Desizing Enzyme: 2 gpl Singeing mach-
ing+ rotating
station
Wetting agent: 1 gpl
3. WASHING First a boil wash at 90°C,
2ends.
Jigger
Sample check for desizing
4. CAUSTIC
TREATMENT
Caustic Flacks: 45gpl run at RT,
2 ends.
Jigger
5. WASHING First a boil wash at 90°C, 2
ends.
Jigger
6. SCOURING Soda Ash: 2gpl Jigger
Soap: 2gpl
Run at 80°C, 2 ends.
7. WASHING Hot wash at 80°C 2 ends. Jigger
Cold wash at 50°C 2 ends.
8. DRYING At 100°C Lab Mini-Stenter
9. CHEMICAL
FINISHING
Softener as per requirement Lab Mini-Stenter
Binder as per requirement
Acid- 0.5gpl
Dry at 120°C
Table 4. Wet Process Route and Recipe
All tests were carried out under alike testing conditions
i.e. 27 ± 2 °C temperature and 65% Relative Humidity.
Impact Of Weave On Functional Properties Of Fabrics
TECHNICAL ARTICLE
33www.textilevaluechain.comApril 2018
RESULTS AND DISCUSSIONS
Sr.
No.
Weave Fin-
ished
R x P
Thick-
ness
Shrinkage Tear-
ing
CRA Water
Ab-
sorb-
ancy
Tensile
Strength
Air
Per-
me-
ability
Warp Weft Warp Weft Warp Weft Warp Weft
mm % % N N ° ° Sec-
onds
kg Kg l/m2/s
1 Plain 84X80 0.4 -0.62 0 17.56 17.14 83 84 0.244 23.2 21.5 545.4
2 2/1 Twill 88X82 0.51 -2.5 0.62 22.16 16.51 105.5 110 0.33 24.3 15.1 674.2
3 2/2 Twill 86X78 0.53 -1.25 -1.25 22.78 18.18 98.5 100 0.252 26.3 11.1 734.6
4 3/1 Twill 86X78 0.494 -2.5 -2.5 30.73 21.74 103 95 0.272 25.6 16 813.8
5 Satin 86X76 0.512 -3.75 -4.37 42.23 38.46 102 112 0.27 18.8 20.2 1390
Table 5. Test Results
1.Shrinkage
Testing the effect of washing and drying on dimensional
stability of the fabric gives information about the fabric
types and is thus useful for the end consumer. It is ob-
served that type of weave has a significant effect on the
dimensional behavior of fabrics. Plain weave is showing
the lowest shrinkage because of higher number of inter-
lacement points. On the other hand, satin weave with the
lowest number of interlacement points has shown the
highest shrinkage.
Figure 6. Effect of weave on shrinkage
2.Tensile Strength
Tensile strength can be defined as maximum load a test
specimen can withstand when subjected to uni-axial
loading. The strength of fabric depends not only on yarn
strength and its constituting fibre’sstrength but also on its
fabric structure. Plain woven fabrics tend to show high-
est tensile strength as the interlacement points are more,
providing a higher contact area, hence leading to greater
frictional force and resistance to slippage of yarns in the
fabric. On the other hand, tensile strength decreases as
we go from plain to twill and to satin, reason being in-
creasing floats and lesser binding points
Figure 7. Effect of weave on tensile strength
3. Tearing Strength
The results illustrate highest tearing strength in satin fab-
ric followed by 3/1 twill, 2/2 twill, 2/1 Twill and plain woven
fabrics. 2/2 twill and 2/1 Twill fabrics show nearly same
strength values. The reason being the loose structure
(long floats) of satin fabric which gives chance for group-
ing of threads to occur, resulting in high tear resistance.
While in plain fabrics, as the binding points are relatively
more, the thread movement decreases, hence tearing re-
sistance drops.
Figure 8. Effect of weave on tearing strength
4. Water Absorbency
There are several factors which affect water absorbency
like fibre type, GSM, thickness of fabric and weave. It is
TECHNICAL ARTICLE
www.textilevaluechain.com34 April 2018
seen that as the float decreases, the pore size in the fabric
decreases. And as the fabric is wetted, the yarns swell,
thus blocking the pores in between them. Therefore, a
loosely woven fabric is prone to have higher water absor-
bency, as depicted in the below graph
Figure 10. Effect of weave on water absorbency
5. Air Permeability
Air permeability is another property that depends on size
of pores and inter-thread channels in a fabric which are
reliant on fabric structure. It can be clearly seen from the
figure, the air permeability increases with increase in float
length as the increment in float length makes the fabric
loose to allow air to penetrate through it, and vice-versa.
Figure 11. Effect of weave on air permeability
CONCLUSION
The forgoing discussion gives an idea about the relation between
fabric structure and its properties which is wrapped up as below:
• As the number of interlacement points in the weave increase, the
fabric shrinkage lowers after processing, while its tensile strength
increases.
• Loose structure of fabric results into high tearing strength because
of grouping of threads when the load is applied. On the other hand,
an increase in number of binding points in the structure restricts the
thread movement, thus reducing the tearing strength of the fabric.
• A fabric with higher floats is likely to absorb more water as com-
pared to that with that is tightly constructed with more binding points,
because a fabric with more binding points and tight construction has
smaller pore size which decreases further as the fabric gets wet due
to swelling of constituting yarns.
• Likewise, air permeability also depends on pore size and is found to
be more in fabrics with more number of floats.
VDMA: German Technology meets Indian Textiles and Nonwovens
Decision-makers from the Indian
textile and nonwoven industry are
warmly invited to register under www.
germantech-indiantextile.de for the
next VDMA Textile Machinery Confer-
ence and B2B-Forum from 15 to 16
May 2018 in Mumbai (Hotel The Leela). Registration is
mandatory. The VDMA will bear organizational costs (no
entrance fee). Deadline for registration: April 30, 2018.
The VDMA organizes the event in close co-operation with
the VDMA India Office, important media partners and In-
dian textile associations such as CITI. More than 30 well-
known VDMA textile machinery and component will hold
36 application-oriented presentations about spinning,
knitting, weaving, finishing, dyeing and embroidery. Oth-
er important cross topics, such as automation, digitaliza-
tion (Industry 4.0) and smart production technologies will
show all kind of Indian textile manufacturers how to im-
prove their competitiveness.
State-of-the-art-technology will be presented in three
sessions:
• Textile machinery & components for the fiber & yarn in-
dustry (May 15, 2018)
• Textile machinery & components for the technical tex-
tiles and nonwovens industry (May 15 & 16, 2018)
• Textile machinery & components for the apparel, home
textile & carpet industry
Networking among the participants and experts will be
reached also through a B2B meeting area and conference
dinner / high tea.
In addition, a training seminar at VeermataJijabai Tech-
nological Institute will take place on 17 May 2018 at the
premises of VJTI in Mumbai. Mrs. Regina Brückner, chair-
person of the VDMA Textile Machinery Association states:
“The knowledge needed to keep up in the textile business
is changing at a faster rate, which makes lifelong learning
a must. The knowledge transfer at the VDMA event will
improve the competitiveness of the Indian textile industry
not only in the short but also in the medium and long-
term. The students of today are the decision-makers and
technical managers of tomorrow.”
TECHNICAL ARTICLE
Mr. Ganesh Jadhav (Manager-TRADC),
Ms. Ankita Kaushik (Asst. Manager-TRADC)
35www.textilevaluechain.comApril 2018
TEXTILE INDUSTRY: MOVING BEYOND THE CONVENTIONAL PARA-
DIGMS - 9TH ASIAN TEXTILE CONFERENCE (ATEXCON)
Confederation of Indian Textile Industry (CITI) organised
its 9th Asian Textile Conference on 14th March 2018 in
Hotel ITC Maratha, Mumbai. The theme of the Conference
was “Textile Industry: Moving Beyond the Conventional
Paradigms”. The event was inaugurated by Dr.Kavita
Gupta, IAS, Textile Commissioner, Government of India.
Dr. Kavita Gupta acknowledged and congratulated the in-
dustry for reaching to a level where they can leapfrog into
a different orbit. She highlighted the need to integrate
MSMEs to achieve the inclusive growth of the sector. The
highlight of her address was the brief history of Indian
textile sector which spanned from the age of poet and
weaver, Kabir up to the state-of-the-art infrastructure be-
ing developed in Indian textile parks these days.
Mr. Sanjay K. Jain, Chairman, CITI delivered the Welcome
Address and wherein he highlighted the importance of
being disruptive and innovative in order to maintain the
vibrancy and energy in this sector. Mr. Jain also requested
the government and industry to look for out of box so-
lutions to resolve the long pending issues plaguing the
textile and apparel sectors of the industry.
Mr. Sanjay Jayavarthanavelu, CMD, Lakshmi Machine
Works Ltd. - the Principal Sponsor of the Event - delivered
the Special Address in the Inaugural Session. In his special
address he highlighted the scope and challenges of the
textile machinery industry in India.The theme presenta-
tion delivered by Mr. Prashant Agarwal, Joint MD, Wazir
Advisors, knowledge partner to ATEXCON, presented the
global trends which are changing the shape of industry
and focused on initiatives required to be taken up by in-
dustry to keep pace.
Mr. T. Rajkumar, Deputy Chairman, CITI proposed Vote
of Thanks in the inaugural session and Mr. D. L. Sharma,
Vice Chairman, CITI proposed Vote of Thanks in the con-
cluding session.
The conference featured four Sessions on Sub-themes
related to Policy Support, Innovation, Global Value Chain
and Retail. The sessions featured who’s who of the Indian
textile and apparel sector including private companies, in-
dustry associations & councils, machinery suppliers, and
other service providers. Each of the session had elaborate
discussion and presentations on the current status and
the shape of things to come. The panelists’ growth story,
remarks and future ideas kept the large audience fully en-
gaged in the conference.
The event saw the overwhelming response from the
textile industry and more than 450 delegates, including
eminent international speakers and leading textile com-
panies from India and abroad attended the mega event.
SHOW REPORT
TAI –Vidarbha 15th International & 73rd All India Textile Conference
“Fibre to Fashion – Integrated Growth Roadmap”
After its enormous success in 1979, 2006 & 2015, The Tex-
tile Association (India) – Vidarbha has successfully hosted
15th International & 73rdAll India Textile Conference in
Nagpur, on “Fibre to Fashion - Integrated Growth Road-
map “on 02nd & 03rd February, 2018 at Dr. Vasantrao
Deshpande Auditorium, Nagpur.
Dignitaries lighting the lamp at inaugural function	
At the inaugural function Shri. Arvind Sinha, TAI, Presi-
dent, and Central Office: R. K. Dubey, President, TAI, Vid-
arbha Unit: Dr. Hemant Sonare, Conference Chairman,
Hon. Secretary, TAI-Vidarbha & newly elected Chairman-
Textile Association of India, T. K. Sengupta, Newly elected
President, TAI, Central Office: Dr. U. N. Wagmare, Direc-
tor, CICR, Guest Of Honor, Hon. Shri. Anil Joshi, Ex Tex-
Dignitaries lighting the lamp at inaugural function
April 18 pdf 1
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April 18 pdf 1

  • 1. www.textilevaluechain.com TE TILEX VALUE CHAIN APRIL 2018 Volume 6 Issue 4 Registered with Registrar of Newspapers under | RNI NO: MAHENG/2012/43707 Postal Registration No. MNE/346/2018-20 published on 5th of every month, TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN posted at Mumbai, Patrika Channel Sorting Office,Pantnagar, Ghatkopar-400075, posting date 12/13 of month | Pages 52 ROCESSING SECTOR Interview : Schoch Reeds India Pvt. Ltd. Cotton, Yarn : Domestic/ Export,Market Report : Surat, Fabric, Cotton Weather Yeild Forecast- May 2018 MohairSustainable Fibre : Impact of weave on functionalTechnical Article : properties of fabric Fashion Products DevelopmentFashion Focus : By Inspiration Of Indian Folk Art And Craft Designs Few Fibres/Yarn brandsProduct Innovation : Maharashtra and Andhra PradeshState Policy Comparison :
  • 3. 3www.textilevaluechain.comMarch 2018 4 5 6 Farm to Fashion, Indian Textile Global Summit is an initiative to provide a platform for the entire textile industry. Farm to Fashion is a three- day event scheduled on 4-5-6 May 2018 encompassing the following:- Leading Textile Manufacturers, Traders, Distributors and Suppliers Entire product value chain - Farm to Fashion, viz. Cotton, Spinning, Ginning, Weaving, Knitting, Yarn, Fabric Processing, Digital Printing, Garments & Apparels EXHIBITION - A SHOWCASE OF BEST OF INDIAN FABRICS, IDEAS, OPPORTUNITIES & POTENTIAL Leading textile under one roofstakeholders of Exhibitor Benefits: Stall Entitlements: ?An opportunity to display your products to thousands of business visitors and buyers from India & abroad. ?Exposure to Leading Brands, buyers, textile machineries and manufacturers. ?Access to senior decision makers of textile industry ?Three complimentary Delegate passes to a content-rich conference (incl. of meals) ?One fashion show entry pass ?50 Invitation cards to your prospective buyers ?Rate Rs. 8000 per sq.m. ?1 table with 2 chairs and 3 spotlights (for 3*3 m stall) ?1 Electric point of 5 amp. 1 carat of small water bottles & 1 waste paper bin ?Fascia Branding ?Reimbursement: For Hotel stay - up to Rs. 2000/-. For Air fare - up to Rs. 5000/- against Boarding Pass. (Only for one person) CONTENT RICH CONFERENCE WITH GLOBAL SPEAKERS & TECHNICAL SESSIONS Learning & imbibing the innovations ?Access to content rich conference, 17 technical sessions and global speakers ?Fashion Show with Gala Dinner ?Industry Visit to Composite Textile Unit ?Café Corner – Chance to personally meet some of the renowned speakers ?White Paper – containing the Vision Document 2030 for the textile industry www.farmtofashion.co.inFor more Information and Online Registration For Delegate Registration +91 82600 60082 info@farmtofashion.co.in* For Exhibition Stall booking +91 97129 76880 info@farmtofashion.co.in* Category Fees till 1st May 2018 On Spot Delegate Rs. 5,900 Rs. 7,080 Corporate (Minimum 5 registrations) Rs. 4,720 Rs. 5,900 Student Rs. 2,360 Rs. 2,360 Delegate Registration Inclusive of all taxes ?150+ Renowned Exhibitors ?Exhibition with focus on best of Indian Fabrics ?Networking opportunities with national & international market players Entry to the exhibition is Free. (Registration necessary)
  • 4. www.textilevaluechain.com4 March 2018 TEMPLE RINGS/ROLLERS YEARS India's Leading Manufacturer & Exporter of Picanol/Dornier/Vamatex/Sulzer/SometGRIPPERS RAPIER TAPES Picanol/Dornier/Vamatex/Sulzer/Somet Torrey Twister TEMPLES
  • 11. 11www.textilevaluechain.comApril 2018 APRIL 2018 ISSUE CONTENT Advertiser Index INTERVIEW 44- Devendra Bamb , Plant Manager & Sales of Schoch Reeds India COVER STORY 15- Is Maharashtra Textile Policy Going In Right Direction??? By Avinash Mayekar 17-Processing Sector of India & Industrialist Views 40- Vidharbha:The next emeging Textile & Clothing Hub by Dr. Hemant Sonare MARKET REPORT 19- Yarn Report- Basic Textiles Export Recovers In February 20- Yarn Report- Global textile pricing trend in March 21- COTTON SPIN: The China Syndrome: A nuclear meltdown? 22-Cotton Fibre Procurement By India’s CCI Rises Eight-Fold 22- Surat Report 23- Cotton Weather (Yield Forecast) May 2018 24- Fabric Market Report By Kirti Shah SUSTAINABLE FIBRE 25- Clothing from Mohair Fibre by N.N. Mahapatra FASHION FOCUS 28- Fashion Products Development by Inspiration of Indian Folk Art And Craft Designs TECHNICAL ARTICLE: 32- Impact Of Weave On Functional Properties Of Fabrics ASSOCIATION NEWS 14- Textile Commissioner Inaugurates SRTEPC Regional Office in Coimbatore 34- VDMA: German Technology meets Indian Textiles and Non- wovens 27- INNOVATIONS: Few New Innovations In Fibres & Yarn 2018 Exhibition Mumbai SHOW REPORT 35- 9TH ASIAN TEXTILE CONFERENCE (ATEXCON) 35- TAI –Vidarbha 15th International & 73rd All India Textile Conference 38- Comparison of State Textile Policies Between Maharash- tra and Andra Pradesh 42 - SHOW CALENDAR EDITORIAL TEAM Editor and Publisher Ms. Jigna Shah Chief Editor Mr. Bhavesh Thakar Editorial Assistant Mrs. Namsha Graphic Designer Mr. Anant A. Jogale INDUSTRY Mr. Devchand Chheda City Editor - Vyapar ( Janmabhumi Group) Mr. Manohar Samuel President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries Dr. M. K. Talukdar VP, Kusumgar Corporates Mr. Shailendra Pandey VP (Head – Sales and Marketing), Indian Rayon Mr. Ajay Sharma GM RSWM (LNJ Bhilwara Group) Mr. Avinash Mayekar Consulting Editor Dr. N.N. Mahapatra President, Colorant Ltd. EDUCATION / RESEARCH Mr. B.V. Doctor HOD knitting, SASMIRA Dr. Ela Dedhia Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College Dr. Mangesh D. Teli Professor, Dean ICT Dr. S.K. Chattopadhyay Principal Scientist and Head MPD Dr. Rajan Nachane Retired Scientist, CIRCOT Back Page : Raymond Back Inside: DN Associate Front Inside: Raysil Page3:FARM TO FASHION Page4: Sanjay Plastic Page5:SGS Innovation Page6: NonWoven Tech Asia 2018 Page7:Sujal Enterprise Page8:TECHNOTEX Page9: LRT Page10: GENTEX Page 14: Kaisokki Page 18 : Textest Instrument Page 31: Tomsic Page44:SITEX Page45:TEXOCAM Page46:SKBS Page47:TECHMECH Page48: VORA Associate & AMITH Garment Page49: N23 TEX MACH INDIA Page50:ITMA ASIA 2018
  • 12. www.textilevaluechain.com12 April 2018 EDITORIAL Ms. Jigna Shah Editor and Publisher All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of any of the content from this issue is prohibited without explicit written permission of the publisher. Every effort has been made to ensure and present factual and accurate information. The views expressed in the articles published in this magazine are that of the respective authors and not necessarily that of the publisher. Textile Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely errors that might occur or any steps taken based in the information provided herewith. Registered Office Innovative Media and Information Co. 189/5263, Sanmati, Pantnagar, Ghatkopar (East), Mumbai 400075. Maharashtra, INDIA. Tel : +91-22-21026386 Cell: +91-9769442239 Email: info@textilevaluechain.com tvcmedia2012@gmail.com Web: www.textilevaluechain.com Owner, Publisher, Printer and Editor Ms. Jigna Shah Printed and Processed by her at, Impression Graphics, Gala no.13, Shivai Industrial Estate, Andheri Kurla Road, Sakinaka, Andheri (East), Mumbai 400072, Maharashtra, India. Increase fibre consumption will accelerate the growth of industry Indian Textile & Apparel industry aiming for USD 300 Million mark by 2025 considering export and do- mestic market sales. The increase of the world fibre market consumption was 3.2% up to 104.8 million tons in 2017 end according to preliminary calculation. Oil-based synthetic fibres had the biggest share with 64.2%, Cel- lulosic and protein-based fibres consist of cotton share around 24.1%, wood-based cellulose fibres share around 6.2%, other natural fibres are around 4.4% and wool is around 1.1%. According to this statistic, Cotton & synthetic fibre dominate the world for around 88%. CAGR for Synthetic fibre is 3-4 %, Cotton is 1-2%, Cellulosic fibre is 5-6 %. Textile consumption in Industrial / Developed countries is 28-31Kg / capita, Developing countries 7.9-12 kg/ capita. Approximate Market consumption by 3 regions are AMEA (Asia, Middle East, Africa) is 37%, Europe & USA: 36% , ROW : 27% Fibre consumed in apparel, home textile, technical textile, intimate apparel, active wear, etc. trend to high-tech clothing and comfort leading to more use of special polyester and wood based fibres. Fibre brands are now connecting directly with apparel brands, retailers and enthusing consumer by B2C Advertising campaign. Today Consumers can associate themselves with apparel brands but not fibre brands. New revolution is on the way, where dynamics of textile industry will change soon because today’s consumers are more aware and con- scious due to faster connectivity through social media and internet. Today’s youth are also environment / ecology conscious so they demand sustainable products in their all walks of life. Textile has a great future in south Asian market due to good infrastructure for manufacturing process, expertise human skill, more population more market opportunity and cost advantage over the world due to de- veloping country. We will start our new financial year with a positive and long term vision. Wish you Happy and Productive 2018- 2019...!
  • 13. 13www.textilevaluechain.comApril 2018 Dr. Kavita Gupta, IAS, Textile Com- missioner inaugurated the new Regional Office of The Synthetic & Rayon Textiles Export Promotion Council (SRTEPC) in the premises of Southern India Mills’ Association (SIMA) in Coimbatore on 16th March 2018. Speaking at the inauguration, Dr. Kavita Gupta said that when the production of textile and clothing products doubles in 2025 in value terms, the fibrerequirement should also increase tremendously. Dr. Gupta further stated that the do- mestic textile and clothing industry market is about US$ 110 billion and exports are about US$ 40 billion. She informed that the textile Ministry has set a target of US$300 billion by the year 2025. She remarked that Cotton and Man- made Fibresblends are coming a in a big way and so the scenario is not cotton vs Manmade sectors, but both the sectors are complementary to each other and should go hand in hand. Speaking on the Rebate of State Lev- ies she said that the Ministry has got further allocation of about Rs. 900 crore and the same will be released soon. She also said that the Ministry is also pursuing with the Government on the additional funds required for the Scheme. She stated that the office of the Tex- tile Commissioner has given propos- als related to Technology Mission on cotton and Technical textiles to the Textile Ministry. A Seminar on “Emerging Scope for Man-made fibre textiles –Growth & Future Sustainability” was also held on the occasion. Shri Sri Narain Ag- garwal, Chairman, SRTEPC; Shri P. Nataraj, Chairman, The Southern In- dia Mills’ Associaiton (SIMA); ShriRo- nak Rughani, Vice Chairman, SRTEPC; Shri Anil Rajvanshi, Convenor and Immediate past Chairman, SRTEPC; members of the Committee of Ad- ministration of the Council, Shri- Selvraj, Secretary General, SIMA, Shri S. Balaraju, Executive Direc- tor of SRTEPC and media, etc. were present on the oc- casion. The Chairman SRTEPC in his ad- dress on SRTEPC Activities, Services and Initiatives – its role in Export Promotion and the scope for Indian man-made fibre textiles said that the Indian MMF textile indus- try has massive capacities and there is scope for growth. The sector has verti- cally integrated and exports to a large number of countries. He fur- ther stated that the MMF textiles Ex- port target for the current fiscal year isUS$ 7.5 billion. Shri P. Natraj, Chairman, The South- ern india Mills’ Association said that the joint efforts of Grasim, Reliance and SIMA in value addition of MMF had become a success model as larger number of weavers and lead- ing textile had got into viscose/poly- ester/cotton blends. He said that at least 5 million spindles in South India and equal value in downstream sec- tors can be converted into synthetic. ShriJaigopal, Managing Director of M/s Madura Coats Pvt. Ltd. has given a presentation on ‘Emerging Trends in the Man-Made Fibre Textiles Trade’ and urged the participants to go for innovations and produce Smart and Value-addedtextile items with Man- Made Fibres. Dr. Jayaraman, Assistant Director and Head of the Spinning, SITRA, Coimbatore gave a detailed presen- tation on ‘Perspective of the increas- ing significance of Man-Made Fibre Textiles’ and suggested the industry to go for MMF textiles in view of its properties, price fluctuations in cot- ton fibreetc,. and offered their servic- es in providing technology, training, testing etc, ASSOCIATION NEWS Textile Commissioner Inaugurates SRTEPC Regional Office in Coimbatore
  • 14. www.textilevaluechain.com14 April 2018 (for filament yarn) EVENNESS TESTER KET V++/C 8.18.1 7 NEW MODEL "YOGIDHARA", 2 Nandanvan Society, Indubhai Patel Road, Alkapuri, Vadodara 390 007. Gujarat. India Phone : 0265 2312730 / 2351634. Webpage : www.thymas.com Email : thymasltd@gmail.com, tepl26@yahoo.com 8.1 YARN CLEARER TRICHORD FLEX WITH FOREIGN FIBER DETECTION“Individual Fiber length 6mm – 30 mm available.” - V++ / LS 7 ADVT
  • 15. 15www.textilevaluechain.comApril 2018 COVER STORY Is Maharashtra Textile Policy Going In Right Direction??? Timing of Maharashtra textile policy will be the game changer for the textile industry today.It is going to be the tide shifting event that will further boost the Industrial in- vestments in Maharashtra. It will help overcome all the setbacks faced due to recent financial slow down. The tex- tile industrial stalwarts were on a still mode avoiding any new investments in this sector post GST announcements thus an extra push in the form of policy was needed for the industry. This Maharashtra textile policy therefore kicks in exactly at the right time acting as abooster dose- for the industry to take a chance & expand their business in multifold. On analyzing the table 1.1 providing details of Maharash- tra policy we will notice that the policy has been perfectly laid out to overcome the current shortcomings faced by the textile industry of Maharashtra. The policy ensures providing support in the form of subsidy to the concerned & less developed sectors of textile. The policy has taken care of the entire value chain. It provides 25% capital sub- sidy to ginning, spinning & weaving due to the fact that these sectors are already well established in the state whereas a capital subsidy of 40% to knitting, processing, yarn dyeing, garmenting & technical textiles to create val- ue added products currently not much developed in the state. The policy further take care of the least developed textile regions of the state mapped into 3 zones which are Vid- arbha, Marathwada & North Maharashtra by providing additional subsidy. So if at all an entrepreneur is putting up a unit in the three zones identified above they will get an additional subsidy of 10% to 20% depending on their segment in addition to the percentage of subsidy that is already mapped for each segment as stated above. So ginning, spinning, weaving will get additional 10% subsidy i.e. total 35% in these three zones whereas knitting, pro- cessing, yarn dyeing, garmenting & technical textiles will get additional 20% subsidy i.e. total 60% capital subsidy to the units established in these areas. This policy of govern- ment will thus ensureemployment generation to the local public of the region. Moreover the abundant availability of land in these regions will avoid overcrowding of exist- ing textile zones. An important & unique feature policy is that there is no upper capital limit to the amount of subsidy that will be sanctioned thereby giving the textile entrepreneurs a free hand to invest into larger projects as well. Despite the fa- vorable government policy the other issue for textile in- vestment in Maharashtra is the high power cost of the state compared to other states.This adds to the burden of textile industry specifically as power is the2ndmajor cost factor in textile industry. The policy has addressed this is- sue by offering powersubsidy of Rs. 2/KWHfor the textile units established in the state that will be using more than 107HP. The benefits offered by the Maharashtra government for the textile industry is a great initiative as the state is a predominately cotton growing region. This policy will thus benefit both the cotton growers giving good value to their yield by means of forward linkage & to the industry by ensuring easy availability of raw materials. Seeing at the overall structure of the policy there is a great opportunity for entrepreneurs to venture into textile sectors. Bringing textile policy is one step towards boosting the industry but for successful running of the textile units there is a greater need to have supportive infrastructure. The state government understanding this necessity has moved one step ahead and is working towards develop- ing world class infrastructure. The Maharashtra indus- trial development corporation has already provided the necessary infrastructure in industrial belts like Kolhapur, Amravati to name a few &many new infrastructure devel- opment projects are lined up in coming future. This sup- portive infrastructure is not in the form of only highway connectivity to major cities & ports but is also designing& setting up common effluenttreatment plants (CETP)along with basic utilities needed for the industry. During recent magnetic Maharashtra they have displayed their model of smart infrastructure development which would take care of the effluent treatment, requirement of water, san- itation & excellent road networking. For providing readily available CETP, testing facilities, elec- tricity, roads, water etc. MIDC will set up Integrated Textile Hubs / Parks at Amravati, Aurangabad, Beed, Buldhana, Jalna, Jalgaon, Nanded, Parbhani, Yavatmal and Wardha. At least 100 ha land at each of these mega integrated tex- tile hubs will be developed as per the textile policy 2018- 22. The promising factor from the policy is that the Ma- harashtra textile policy will also give special incentives to textile projects implementing environment friendly solar and wind energy projects. The other major challenge for the Maharashtra govern- ment while serving to the textile industry will be ensuring & promising the necessity like water, power consistently for a longer duration. The government however has en- sured that current MIDC centers are well equipped with technologies to calculate current water capacities & total water load that can be provided by them. The capacities installed in common effluents are also having capabil- ity to treat the effluent to a certain predetermined level. Thus there will not be any overloading leading to short- ages & downfall of the industry in future.
  • 16. www.textilevaluechain.com16 April 2018 Conclusion: Such solid policy framework & supportive infrastructure has set the platform for world class textile industry to be setup in Maharashtra. Also the digital platforms of gov- ernment will ensure that the subsidy will reach the in- dustrialist in the stipulated time frames directly in their secured bank account. All though this textile policy has taken some months to be launched after the lapse of pol- icy in March 2017, the policy is been outlined with crisp objectives ensuring the development in entire value chain of textile. Moreover this span has helped the industry to carry out the research on new untapped opportunities available in textile especially in technical textile making them ready for investments to incash the maximum ben- efits on policy launch which is quite relevant to me in my recent interactions with textile owners. So the policy is set, the market is ready, its only time now for entrepreneur to involve the best in class team & develop their textile ca- pacities to cater to the world thereby helping the country compete & excel in global markets. With such benefits & support the sky is limit & let us en-cash the maximum to reap higher profits. Type of Tex le Processing (yarn, fabric, prin ng), Technical tex le Kni ng, Hosiery and Garmen ng * Composite Unit** Spinning , Ginning, Pressing Moderni za on of powerlo oms New Powerlooms based on latest technology, Weaving, Preparatory etc Subsidy to units in the General category 40% 35% 25% 25% 25% Subsidy to units in the SC /ST/ Minority category 45% 40% 30% 30% 30% Addi onal subsidy for produc on of Yarn, fabric and other products from non-conven onal yarn 10% 10% 10% - - For tex le projects in the Vidarbha, Marathwada and North Maharashtra region Addi onal Capital subsidy 20% 10% 10% 10% 10% Addi onal subsidy for units having Forward/Backward Integra on 5% - 5% - 5% Addi onal subsidy for units set up in a taluka not having any exis ng Spinning mills - - 5% - - Addi onal subsidy for new composite unit set up in a taluka not having any Co- Opera ve or Private spinning mill - 5% - - - All values are % of eligible amount Source: GR Maharashtra textile policy *Construction cost of ETP / CETP / ZLD in the processing projects will be eligible for capital subsidy. ** Composite Unit: If particulars mentioned in Column 2 are not included then 35% for other processes andif particulars mentioned in Column 2 are included then 40% for those specific processes Avinash Mayekar MD and CEO Suvin Advisors Pvt. Ltd. COVER STORY
  • 17. 17www.textilevaluechain.comApril 2018 Processing is the last value chain segment before the garment stitched. Grey fabric have been processed with dyes, color, prints, washes, etc to make appealing to gar- ment manufacturer for a final garment piece. Textile Min- istry schemes till now focused on Spinning due to abun- dance of cotton in India which needs to be converted to yarn, series of TUFS planned & offered for the benefits to spinning sector. Weaving being fragmented and most unorganized sector, only organized mills or composite mills have taken advantage of TUFS. Processing being highly water intensive and with lot of environmental com- pliances, eco / sustainable issues, this sector needs high investment for zero discharge effluent treatment plants. In recent policy, focus can be seen from different states to sustainable and green technology. A little brief about processing sector scheme is as follows: Integrated Processing Development Scheme (IPDS) (IPDS) which provides assistance to textile processing clusters for setting up Common Effluent Treatment Plants (CETP) with environment compliant effluent treatment technology wherein 7 projects have been sanctioned in the last two years with an assistance of INR 419 crore, covering 3000 SME units. Amended Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme (ATUFS): A total of 182 new projects have been approved under Amended Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme (ATUFS) with projected investment of Rs. 468.87 crores and involv- ing a subsidy of Rs. 37.79 crores during the month. State Textile Policy 2018-23 Government of Maharashtra Projects for which the long term loan has been approved for machinery under the centrally sponsored TUFS scheme from the date of issuance of this Government Resolution or thereafter till 31 March 2023. Processing (Pre& Post) • The existing State scheme of 25% of project cost or Rs. 37.5 crore whichever is lower for projects, approved un- der centrally sponsored IPDS scheme (Government Reso- lution dated 10/02/2015) will be continued. • Capital subsidy will be given for machinery required for ZLD / ETP / CETP in the processing projects. • Processing parks including CETP will set in coastal areas by MIDC. • Land for hard waste disposal will be provided in respec- tive districts. • Processing parks including ZLD / ETP / CETP will set on priority by the MIDC at Ichalkaranji, Malegaon and Bhi- wandi. • Processing projects having ZLD / ETP / CETP will be pro- vided with electricity at concessional rates, since the costs of operating the ZLD / ETP / CETP projects and the hard waste disposal are very high. • Financial assistance will be provided to institutes such as SASMIRA and IIT to set up water free / effluent free dyeing / processing projects. • Water will be reserved for processing plants, since these plants require large volume of water. We have taken some views from Industry contribu- tors about the policy and processing sector. Kindly find below views from corporate / Organized as well as SME’s / Un-organized sector: Mr.Rajendra Sidhpuria, Senior Manager in Processing at Birla Century Birla Century is dealing with cotton wet processing. Tex- tile Policy is much beneficial for entre- preneur. Govt. initiated to uplift the processing units by helping and sup- porting them. Our one of the plants is set with TUFS scheme almost 20 years back. Corporate units take full utiliza- tion of the policy. Processing sector has the bright future in India because we are adapting and implementing new technology. Birla Century achieves the gold certifi- cation in India as well as internationally. Birla Century is the first company to have Green Tag which was first ap- proved by US. P.E. Eshwar Director, SSM Processing Mills Ltd. Processing Sector is in big dilemma due to GST. Input credits not been accumulated, due to which around 2 crore credit is pending till date from GST Department. This is a very big set-back. Environment system should be cen- tralized in all parts of India like it’s done in south, especially in Tamil Nadu. In south, we are following Zero Liquid Discharge Policy. In NCR, pollution policy is far different one to which we follow. Pollution policy differs from state to state. And south produces quality oriented products. Textile Policy is good but not getting good incentive to exporting fabrics to Bangladesh & Srilanka, While other neighboring countries getting benefits of incentive from their country policy. To earn more foreign exchange in our country, we need to have better incentives of our pol- icy. Importers don’t have much impact after introduction of GST. Processing Sector of India COVER STORY
  • 18. www.textilevaluechain.com18 April 2018 Mr.Jayesh Desai, Proprietor of Raj Industries TUFS plays a vital role in textile industry and but timely refunds is a big issue. Government should make everything online and secure. As summer arrives water be- comes a major problem in Gujarat & proper RO System must be imple- mented by Government. Awareness among consumer is improving for maintaining ecological balance. Man- ufacturers are adopting branded ma- chines with green tag label. We expect initiative by Minis- try to appreciate & uplift new manufacturers to promote their brand. Mr. Sushil Verma, MD of Kuster Calico After going through the Maharashtra Textile Policy I am of the opinion that this is good step by the government to promote the Textile Industry which is 2nd largest employ- ment generator. The capital equip- ment subsidy of 20 to 30% is really going to give good boost for setting up new industry in the state and this would be an add-on to the 10% TUFS subsidy which is available from central government. The 30% subsidy in some geographical areas is going to be the highest subsidy announced by any state govern- ment so far. Government should also ensure proper im- plementation of the scheme and provide good infrastruc- ture for setting up industry as most of the Textile Zones will come in remote areas. Mr Rajnikant Bachkaniwala, MD Palod Himson Ma- chines Pvt Ltd. Processing sector lack modernisa- tion & decentralised in surat; going through the bad phase after demon- etization & GST. Market is weak. Or- ganised processing sector in other parts of the country is doing well. Government’s TUFS scheme does not have much effect in processing sector because it has many complications like its process and procedure which is time consuming. Gov- ernment doesn’t put much effort in processing sector. Mr. Dhaval Gandhi from Bianco Textile said that pro- cessing sector requires quality water which is free from hardness. Industry doesn’t required tanker water. Gov- ernment should support to get finance @ 3% net interest for Zero Discharge Effluent Treatment Plan. ONLINE & OFFLINE AIR PERMEABILITY TESTERS, MOBILE AIR PERMEABILITY TESTER, WATER VAPOUR TRANMISSION RATE TESTER, AIR BAG TESTER, HYDROSTATIC HEAD TESTER, DIGITAL ELMENDORF, PICK COUNTER, PACKAGE HARDNESS METER. On-line Air Permeability, Thickness, GSM Manufactured by : Phone : 0265 2312730 / 2351634 . Webpage : www.thymas.com Email : thymasltd@gmail.com, tepl26@yahoo.com Hydrostatic Head TesterMobile Air Permeability Tester Water Vapour Transmission Rate Tester COVER STORY ADVT.
  • 19. 19www.textilevaluechain.comApril 2018 YARN REPORT Basic Textiles Export Recovers In February Cotton export recovers as domestic prices recede Falling domestic prices in prompted cotton exports to surge in February with shipment of 10.6 lakh bales (170 kg each) as against 7.3 lakh bales exported a year ago. The increase in February is largely due to fall in prices and higher exports to Bangladesh. Also, some shipment that were held back in January for no explicit reason, were shipped out this month. Thus, during the first five months of 2017-18 cotton marketing year, cotton exports aggre- gated 44.1 lakh bales as against 43.3 lakh bales in the cor- responding months of previous marketing year. The export (FOB) price realization averaged INR 117 a kg or US cents 84.42 per pound in February as against the Cotlook Index ‘A’ at 88.6 per pound and spot Shankar-6 at US cents 79.4 per pound. Spot prices have declined from an average of US cents 82.7 in January to below US cents 80 per pound mark, large due to higher arrivals and the peak marketing season coming to close. Over the past 12 months, domestic prices remained above US cents 80 per pound levels, touching a high of US cents 85 per pound in April 2017. They had hovered below US cents 80 in the first three months of the current market- ing season, but a crop loss report in Maharashtra and Gu- jarat pushed them back to above US cents 80 in January. Spun yarn and Fabric export jumps in February Spun yarn export shipment jumped 30% In February, while values in US$ term surged 39%. Totaled volume shipped was 105 million kg during the month, worth US$ 330 million. Unit value realization averaged US$ 3.13 per kg, up US cents 5 from previous month, and US cents 21 up compared to last year. The surge is largely due to carry over of January volumes into February due to tax anoma- lies. Meanwhile, the INR appreciated from INR 67.6 to INR 63 this February. Yarn exports to the largest buyer China, continued to con-tract both in terms of volume and value (2% and 4% YoY) during February. It still accounted for 20% of all yarn shipped during the month. Cotton yarn export at 86 million kg worth US$ 275 million (INR 1,735 crore) was up 40% in February as 70 countries imported cotton yarn at an average price of US$ 3.18 a kg, US cents 2 more than previous month and up US cents 19 from last year. China reduced its import of cotton yarn from India by 1.2% in volume but up 1.5 in value terms and was top im- porter during the month. It was followed by Bangladesh with volume and value both more than doubling over the year. Portugal and South Korea were the other major im- porters, also increasing their imports from India. Pakistan was the fifth largest destination but has been reducing its import in recent months. 11 countries did not import any cotton yarn from India as they did last February, but were re-placed by seven other countries which imported yarn worth US$ 0.50 million. Croatia, Syria, Slovenia, Paraguay, and Mexico were among the fastest importers of cotton yarn in February while Bahrain, Canada and Brazil significantly reduced their import compared to last year. 100% man-made fibre yarns exports fell in volume and value in February. MMF yarn exports comprised 3 million kg of polyester yarn, 1.8 million kg of viscose yarn and 0.9 million kg of acrylic yarn. Polyester yarn exports rose 11 in value while viscose yarn exports value increased 13% during the month. Acrylic yarn exports were down 54%. Polyester spun yarns were exported to 42 countries at av- erage unit price of US$ 2.44 a kg. Turkey was the largest importer of polyester yarn, followed by Egypt and Brazil. Viscose yarn worth US$ 6.2 million or INR 39 crore was exported in February at an average price of US$ 3.44 per kg. Bangladesh sprang as the top importer worth US$ 1.5 million, followed by Belgium and Iran.
  • 20. www.textilevaluechain.com20 April 2018 Blended spun yarns worth US$ 39 million were export- ed in February, up 55% YoY in value terms. During the month, 6.9 million kg of PC yarns was exported worth US$ 19 million while 4 million kg of PV yarns were ex-ported worth US$ 12 million. Egypt, Bangladesh and Brazil were the largest importers of PC yarn from India while Turkey was the only major importer of PV yarns from India followed distantly by Iran. Woven fabric shipment (exports) increased in February as exporters extended some shipment after a sharp fall in January. It was, however, still lower than the levels two years ago. While spun yarn exports were also up during the month, the rise in fabric export implies that the over- all textile sector has leveled the previous month’s fall. Volumes rose 12% to 354 million sq mtrs (YoY) worth US$ 282 million or INR 1,774 crore. Thus, cumulative export in the first 11 months of 2017-18, was 3,938 million sq mtr, down 0.7% com-pared with same period a year ago. In terms of value, woven fabric export was worth US$ 3,086 million or INR 19,585 crore. During the month, 145 countries imported woven fab- rics from India, topped by Bangladesh and followed by Sri Lanka and UAE. The three together accounted for 35% of total woven fabric shipped during the month. During the month only eight countries did not import any fabric as last year. However, they were replaced by 19 other countries which imported fabric worth US$ 0.9 million this February. Nepal, Paraguay and were the fastest growing large markets for woven fabrics, and ac- counted for over 1% of total export value in February. Source: Textile Beacon Global Info Services Global textile pricing trend in March Cotton Global cotton markets were largely driven by multiple fac- tors in early March as the commodity captured attention of speculative funds following USDA’s bullish to neutral reports. Prices returned to the previous month’s highs - to a new high, signaling higher prices. However, futures were under pressure in the second half of March in the absence of any fundamental news while rumors made rounds with respect to lost markets due to the imposition of US tariffs as the month was closing. US May futures ended up US cents 3.11 averaging US cents 82.67 a pound on the ICE while the new crop December contract edged down US cent 0.20 at US cents 78.10 a pound. Cotlook A index, the global spot benchmark gained US cents 3.59 on the month at US cents 92.19 per pound, despite moderating in third and fourth week. In China, reserve auction was active but could not find much demand as compared to previous seasons. Nev- ertheless, the first two weeks indicated an average sale of about 100,000 bales. Chinese were complaining that goods offered at auction were of poor quality and had pe- titioned the government to allow more import. The China Cotton Index edged down 37 Yuan to 15,656 per ton (US cents 112 a pound). In India, cotton prices movement were mixed in March with some specs declining and some gaining. Bench- mark, Shankar-6 was traded at an average of INR 40,925 per candy, up INR 750 on the month while V797 was INR 2,200 cheaper at INR 27,400 per candy. Reportedly, cot- ton planting is forecast to fall 12% in 2018-19 crop year as pink bollworm infestation slashed farmers’ incomes and prompted them to shift to other crops. Cotton Yarn Cotton yarn markets in China were under upward correc- tion as the close of the month, although participants were cautious overall. Offers for some best-sell products picked up slightly, mainly for high-quality and high-count yarns, while the prices of conventional products remained un- changed. Yarn prices increased with 32s averaging 23.08 Yuan a kg (US$ 3.65 a kg, up US cents 3) and 40s gained at 24.05 Yuan a kg (US$ 3.80 a kg, up US cents 3) in Shengze. In India, cotton yarn prices moderated in line with the cotton prices in past month. 30s combed cotton yarn for knitting fell to INR 197.50 a kg (US$ 3.04 a kg, down US cents 6) in Ludhiana while export offers were down US cents 4 at US$ 3.30 a kg. Nitin Madkaikar Textile Beacon YARN REPORT
  • 21. 21www.textilevaluechain.comApril 2018 Polyester PSF prices fell sharply in China while they were hiked in Pakistan seeing the currency weaken sharply which made imports costlier. PSF market in Shandong and Hebei mod- erated with sidelined stance while in Fujian, prices moved sideways. In India, PSF prices were raised for the month. In Jiangsu and Zhejiang, offers for 1.4D direct-melt PSF moderated US cents 3 to US$ 1.39-1.42 a kg, while the same in Fujian and Shandong fell to US$ 1.38-1.45 a kg. In India, PSF prices were raised with 1.2D at INR 96.75 a kg or US$ 1.49 a kg and 1.4-2D at INR 98 a kg (US$ 1.50 a kg). Polyester spun yarn offers moved down in China, up in Pakistan and India during March. In China, 32s poly- ester yarn offers were down US cents 2 at US$ 2.17 a kg while 60s were up US cents 5 at US$ 2.53 a kg. 21s were US cents 4 at US$ 2.01 a kg. In India, polyester yarn prices were slightly down with 30s knit yarn prices at INR 132 a kg (US$ $ 2.03 a kg, down US cents 2) in Ludhiana market. Polyester intermediates PTA markets in Asia were in weak fluctuation, with price falling consecutively in all the weeks. Upstream, parax- ylene markets changed little upwards but PTA prices showed slight volatility but slightly weak. PTA Asian mark- ers moderated US$ 1.75 on the month with CFR China at US$ 769-771 per ton while offer from Taiwan/Korea were down at US$ 785-801 per ton. MEG prices, were on a downtrend but the fall was halted in the last week as demand improved with gradual in- crease in polyester production though an upward drive was limited. Inventories in east China were still 1% up from levels seen in late February decreased at 672 kilo ton. MEG spot prices declined US$ 118 on the month with CFR China at US$ 892-897 per ton and CFR South East Asia at US$ 907-912 per ton. YARN REPORT Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Economist John Robinson takes a look at cotton and tariff threats. Back when I was in high school there was a movie called “The China Syndrome,” about a nuclear meltdown. A few days ago, on April 4, the real country of China did some- thing that started off looking like a nuclear meltdown of U.S. stock and agricultural commodity markets.  With a few more days of market reaction under our belts, it may not turn out to be so bad. What China did was include cotton and soyabeans on a list of 106 U.S. export commodities on which they are threat- ening to impose 25 percent tariffs. This is in addition to 128 other U.S. export products previously listed by China. These announcements have been unveiled in apparent tit-for-tat reaction to U.S. government announcements of tariffs on Chinese products imported into the U.S. China’s April 4 announcement that included U.S. cotton was initially met by a 3-cent plunge in the overnight trad- ing of nearby ICE cotton futures contracts, which only re- covered a little bit in that session, settling down over 2 cents. The U.S. stock market similarly was poised to open down 500 points, but ended up rallying 700 points to close up 230 points. In subsequent days the old crop ICE futures contracts rose back above 82 cents. MARKETS HATE UNCERTAINTY Why all this volatility?  The first explanation involves the old age that markets hate uncertainty. Waking up to a dra- matic announcement about potentially changing funda- mentals is a shock, so it wasn’t surprising to see a sharp drop in stock and commodity futures markets. But, what about the actual risk to fundamentals? On the face of it, a 25 percent Chinese tariff on U.S. cotton im- ports would make U.S. cotton relatively more expensive than its competitors.  I consider our relevant competitors to be suppliers of high quality, machine harvested cotton like Australia and Brazil.   So, the U.S. could lose market share to China. Does that imply an overall reduction in U.S. exports?  The answer is — surprise! — a bit complicated. If it really happens, the imposition of a tariff might result in some short-term disruption of the export market. New export sales of U.S. cotton to China might drop off. Exist- ing sales to China might be cancelled. But, after some ad- justment, the overall effects may not be as bad.  RESHUFFLING OF EXPORTS First, if Australia and Brazil increase their exports to Chi- na, that might create a gap that the U.S. could fill in other countries that were expecting to import Australian or Brazilian cotton. This suggests that the effect of bilateral tariffs may simply be a reshuffling of cotton exports, not a reduction.  There is a recent precedent for this kind of reshuffling in COTTON SPIN: The China Syndrome: A nuclear meltdown?
  • 22. www.textilevaluechain.com22 April 2018 the world cotton supply chain. After 2011, the Chinese disrupted their own domestic cotton industry with high- priced purchases of subsequently unavailable cotton for their reserve buildup. Chinese textile mills were having difficulty sourcing affordable cotton supplies.  The result was a shift to increasing cotton imports by Vi- etnam, Indonesia, Pakistan, and other countries, which then exported duty-free cotton yarn to China. The same kind of pattern shift could keep U.S. exports from ulti- mately declining in the wake of a bilateral Chinese tariff on U.S. cotton imports. Because U.S. cotton futures did not crash, I am assum- ing that the Chinese announcement of possible tariffs has not spooked the hedge fund longs who still own a lot of ICE cotton futures. These fund managers, like other traders on Wall Street, may be assuming that all the tit-for-tat announcements are just posturing for the eventual negotiation between the U.S. and China on larger trade issues. Let us hope that is the case. GEOPOLITICS AND ECONOMICS These kinds of risks are something that the U.S. cotton industry has to live with, because it is part of a global mar- ket, which includes geopolitics as much as economics.  The unpredictability of such things highlights the fact that nobody ultimately knows which way cotton prices will go. The only thing you can know for sure is whether a for- ward contract or a hedge on today’s futures price will be a profitable — or at least survivable — price floor. Higher price volatility resulted in state-owned Cotton Cor- poration of India (CCI) recording an eight-fold rise in fibre procurement fiscal 2017-18. It procured 1.2 million bales (of 170 kg each) of cotton fibre under minimum support price (MSP) and commercial operations in the last fiscal compared to 150,000 bales in 2016-17. A third of the total was MSP buying. The cotton season is coming to an end and CCI plans to buy another 200,000 bales before that, according to a re- port in a top Indian business daily. Private procurers had started matching the post-January price offers by CCI, resulting in the level staying high. The state body then auctions the natural fibre for textile mills at the market price. The price began recovering since Jan- uary, to trade above the MSP. CCI estimates the output at 36.2 million bales for the com- ing year, 0.5 million less from its last month’s estimate of 36.7 million. Total output for 2016-17 is estimated at 33.73 million bales. (DS) Cotton Fibre Procurement By India’s CCI Rises Eight-Fold The Govt. is trying to reduce silk imports: Ajay Tamta Union minister of state for textiles Ajay Tamta said the central government is keen for silk fabrics production at domestic level and increase exports. The opportunities in natural fibre in the form of silk are huge in the north east- ern states. The focus is on research and development in sericulture in order to reduce dependence of natural silk imports. Tamta was in the city to attend a seminar organized by the Southern Gujarat Chamber of Commerce and Indus- try (SGCCI) and the Global Fabric Resource and Research Centre (GFRRC) on ‘future opportunities in textile sector’. He said thet he is visiting textile clusters across the coun- try to study the market and to encourage research and development in developing new qualities and products to increase silk fabrics exports. Tamta said GST is new to this country and thus there would be some difficulties. The government has formed a committee to address issues relating to GST. We are try- ing to resolve technical issues in the GST portal and filing of returns. To enhance new high speed machinery in the industry, the govt. is trying to reduce Technology Upgra- dation Fund Scheme (TUFS) formality. GST impact : Yarn-Fabrics dealers tighten the pay- ment system Post GST(Goods and Service Tax), the payment system in the textile business chain in the city is become better than pre-GST period. Most of the yarn dealers and fabrics trad- ers have set payment terms where those paying within seven days of goods delivery are given one per cent dis- count on the total bill amount, whereas there are interest penalties of up to 18 per cent on late payments. Polyester yarn trader Rakesh Shah said, GST has forced a new payment system which is good for a healthy business environment. The new taxation system has helped us to introduce new payment norms as well. Before GST, the payment system across the business chain was irregular. Generally, we were giving payment credits for 30 and 60 days. We would not dare ask for payment from weavers, even if they fail to pay on the promised date. But now af- ter new tax system, weavers pay us cheque against yarn delivery. For those paying in cash, we pay one per cent discount on total bill. For those not paying on time, we im- pose 18 per cent interest on late payments. Earlier, any- one was doing business with everyone. There were many case of defaults. Now you can’t do business with those SURAT REPORT COTTON REPORT
  • 23. 23www.textilevaluechain.comApril 2018 who are not registered under GST. Now, the business is restricted to those who are GST registered players. Either the trader pays in cash or cheque. There is no space for credit in business now. Adverse impact on textile exports due to pending GST refunds Several textile, chemical exporters of south Gujarat are ea- gerly waiting for Integrated Goods and Services Tax (IGST) refunds. The IGST refunds to the tune of Rs 500 crore are pending for processing. Non-processing of refunds has lead to working capital crunch among exporters and in turn, impacting their order books. Textile exporters are losing on business triggering a drop in exports due to higher cost of operations and liquidity crunch. Textile ex- ports from the region have seen a drop of over 5 per cent for the past few months owning to limited cash flow and increased cost of operations. The Finished Fabrics Exporter Sanjeev Kapoor said, Fund flow is a big challenge for exporters as they have not re- ceived refunds under Goods and Services Tax since past ten months. Pending refunds is an issue that continues to have adverse impact on the industry, as it blocks work- ing capital. Small traders are forced to seek bank loans to meet capital needs. Fresh export orders are not being singed up from foreign destinations. Textile export sce- nario looks bleak and unlikely to bounce back in coming months. Industry Sources said, there are several issues including discrepancies in invoice and errors in the returns that had been filed so far which are leading to non-processing of refunds. The government has initiated the refund for ex- porters but still the process is slow. Study on MMF to enhance production and consump- tion The Synthetic and Rayon Export Promotion Council (SRTEPC) will prepare a study reports on Man-Made Fibre (MMF). The study will give a road map to identify gaps and suggest measures. It is going to be a benchmark study in shaping the MMF textile segment in India. The ministry of textile and the textile commissioner’s of- fice have launched a study to promote growth of man- made fibre (MMF) textile in India and to identify the gaps and suggest measures during the mega event ‘Textile in Karnataka’ last month. The study will be to understand the successful strategies of the countries such as China, Indonesia, Vietnam, Bangladesh and Cambodia in order to enhance production and consumption of MMF textiles. India is the second largest world producer of polyester and viscose, but when it comes to export in MMF textile, India is ranked 6th in the world. Despite having enormous potential, strong fundamentals and raw material base, the MMF textile exports from india as higher as other Asian countries. The study reports will suggest measures and innovative ideas to cater to the consumer require- ments and improve competitiveness of Indian MMF tex- tile both in domestic and export markets and help India emerge as the leading country in MMF textile production and exports. By Mr. Bhupendra Dholakia Here are the possible effects of weather effects in different states, keeping in mind the dynamic processes of solar sys- tems, elaborate sentences, astronomical matters, and an- cient history of seasonality.) In the first week of May, During the 1st to 3rd, there is a pos- sibility of mild pressure of air in the ocean. Its influence re- mains special in the states of Maharashtra, South Gujarat, East Gujarat, Madhya Pradesh and South Rajasthan. Its neg- ative effect can be seen in some extent. The effect of which is seen in cotton yield. There is a possibility of rain on the south-east coast of In- dia between May 4 and 8. Under its influence, there is likely to be a short hail like rain in Gujarat and many part of Ma- harashtra. Saurashtra and Central Gujarat are experiencing cloud-like conditions. For the maintenance of cotton stock, it is advisable to make special efforts. During 9 to 13 May, rain-fed weather conditions prevailed in some parts of Gujarat, Maharashtra and Madhya Pradesh. There is a possibility of rain somewhere. Preservation meas- ures are essential in gaining - pressing units. During the period between 14th and 15th May (Vaade Chau- das-Amas), there is an increase in the proportion of the heat- wave in the middle part of the North Gujarat and the north- ern parts of Maharashtra. Cotton stock must be taken care of. The heat rises between 16 and 18 May. Air and wind and thunderstorms will increase. A rainy atmosphere appears in the Andaman Sea and the South Bay. The monsoon activity goes forward. Need to take care in the cotton market. May 19 to 22 May be seen in the cloud of pumpkin. Gujarat- Saurashtra- The climate of Kutch and Maharashtra is like a tropical rain. Its adverse effect is seen in agriculture. May 23 to 26 have more heat in Northen part of India. The Ganga & Jamna River Plateau will be hotter. Gujarat- Sau- rashtra- Kutch- Madhya Pradesh- Heat increased in Ra- jasthan and Maharashtra. Vertical breed of Cotton will get push in the market. From May 25 to June 8, the sun will remain in Rohini constel- lation. There will be rain sprinkle in many places from 27th to 30th May. Good Monsoon projections. There is likely to be good impact on cotton and other commodities. Cotton Weather (Yield Forecast) May 2018 SURAT REPORT
  • 24. www.textilevaluechain.com24 April 2018 FABRIC MARKET REPORT By Kirti Shah, Textile World Cotton Yarn Rates fluctuating frequently and powerloom gross rates increased by Rs.1. Sulzer looms produced fab- ric have no change in rates as supply is more and demand is less. In Bhiwandi, 70% looms have been shut down due to no demand. Hence processing houses are not running in its full capacity. A South Grey fabric has been processed in Tarapur, Umargaon &Ambernath but no dispatch from the pro- cessing house due to no truck available for loading the furnish fabric. Trucks were standing by Ahmedabad for more than 10 days due to financial crises. After GST; NCR, Mumbai, Ahmedabad and Surat affected most, payments from this is still pending. So, business slowed down without money. Earlier in shirting 40/180/72 yarn dyed checks are in de- mand, but it’s demand declined due to large production. Hence manufacturers started selling in stock lot. SULZER - RUNNING QUALITIES -APRIL 2018 S.NO QUALITY HSN CODE WT L.MTR WT GSM YARN TYPE WEAVE STD PRICE EX.MILL 1 07X07/68X38 - 63 5209 625 390 OE X OE DRILL DYEING 96.00 2 10X06/76X28 - 63 5209 510 325 OE X OE DUCK DYEING 78.00 3 10X10/68X38 - 63 5209 440 275 OE X OE DRILL DYEING 70.00 4 10X10/40X36 - 63 5208 310 195 OE X OE PLAIN DYEING 51.00 5 16X08/84X28 - 47 5209 265 225 OE X OE DUCK DYEING 46.00 6 16X08/84X28 - 63 5209 360 225 OE X OE DUCK DYEING 61.00 7 16X12/84X26 - 47 5208 230 193 OE X OE DUCK DYEING 41.00 8 16X12/84X26 - 63 5208 310 193 OE X OE DUCK DYEING 54.00 9 16X12/96X48 - 63 5209 415 260 OE X OE DRILL DYEING 73.00 10 16X12/108X56 - 63 5209 470 295 OE X OE DRILL DYEING 82.00 11 16X16/60X56 - 63 5208 300 187 OE X OE PLAIN DYEING 55.00 12 2/20X10/40X36 - 48 5208 235 193 OE X OE PLAIN DYEING 44.00 13 2/20X10/40X36 - 63 5208 310 193 OE X OE PLAIN DYEING 57.00 14 20X20/60X50 - 63 5208 225 140 OE X OE PLAIN DYEING 45.00 15 20X20/60X60 - 50 5208 200 155 OE X OE PLAIN DYEING 40.00 16 20X20/60X60 - 63 5208 245 155 OE X OE PLAIN DYEING 48.00 17 20X20/60X60 - 67 5208 255 155 OE X OE PLAIN DYEING 51.00 18 20X20/60X60 - 72 5208 275 155 OE X OE PLAIN DYEING 54.00 19 20X20/60X60 - 78 5208 300 155 OE X OE PLAIN DYEING 59.00 20 20X20/60X56 - 131 5208 480 150 OE X OE PLAIN DYEING 96.00 21 20X16/108X56 - 63 5209 345 216 OE X OE DRILL DYEING 67.00 22 20X20/108X56 - 63 5209 327 205 OE X OE DRILL DYEING 63.00 23 20X20/108X56 - 67 5209 345 205 OE X OE DRILL DYEING 67.00 24 20X20/108X56 - 72 5209 370 205 OE X OE DRILL DYEING 72.00 25 30X30/76X68 - 65 5208 195 112 CARDED PLAIN DYEING 55.00 26 30X30/68X64 - 63 5208 175 110 CARDED PLAIN S.DYEING 47.00 27 30X30/124X64 - 63 5208 260 165 CARDED 2/1 TWILL DYEING 70.00 28 40X40/92X88 - 67 5208 200 118 COMBED PLAIN DYEING 68.00 29 40X40/92X88 - 72 5208 215 118 COMBED PLAIN DYEING 72.00 30 40X40/100X96 - 65 5208 205 125 COMBED PLAIN DYEING 72.00 31 40X40/100X96 - 72 5208 230 125 COMBED PLAIN DYEING 78.00 SLUB Fabrics - (Warp - Normal yarn + Weft Ringspun Carded Slub yarn) 1 10X10/40X36 - 63 5208 315 195 OE X RS PLAIN DYEING 64.00 2 16X08/84X28 - 63 5209 370 225 OE X RS DUCK DYEING 74.00 3 2/20X10/40X36 - 48 5208 240 195 OE X RS PLAIN DYEING 55.00 4 2/20x10/40x36 - 63 5208 315 195 OE X RS PLAIN DYEING 72.00 ALL PRICES ARE EX - MILL. (GST 5 % ADDITIONAL)
  • 25. 25www.textilevaluechain.comApril 2018 Clothing From Mohair Fibre We all know that 2009 is named as the YEAR OF NATURAL FIBRES. It may be vegetable fibre or animal fibre. The use of various type of natural fibre in spinning of synthetic or worsted yarn was at the peak from 1980 to 1990. We all know during this decade Jayashree Textiles ( a unit of Adi- tya Birla group ) situated in Rishra , Dist Hooghly ( West Bengal) was the main manufacturer of Poly/wool blends with Ramie, Flax, Hemp, Silk ,Camel hair, Angora, Mo- hair , Pineapple etc under the able guidance of Mr Jayant Shroff , Mr Badal Das , Mr R.N.Chatterjee and Mr Govind Rathi . During this period the author had a chance to work with the above pioneer people of fancy worsted yarn pro- duction in India. Almost during the same period the use of various type of natural fibres was used in Poly/viscose synthetic spin- ning at Gujarat Spinners Ltd situated in Amletha, Rajpi- pla, Gujarat under the able guidance of Mr Asis Bagro- dia, Mr B.K.Ametha, Mr J.S.Anand , Mr S.K.Bhatia and Mr P.K.Choudhury . The fibres used were Flax, Jute, Silk, Mohair, Ramie etc. During this period the author had a chance to work with the above pioneer people of fancy synthetic yarn production in India. All the above fancy yarns were used in making fabrics like suiting, shirting and dress materials like Gwalior Suitings, Raymonds, Dig- jam, Vimal Suitings, Dinesh etc. Although wool is by far the most important animal fibre, there are a number of hair fibres which are of considera- ble commercial value. These come mostly from animals of the goat and camel families. Mohair comes from Angora goat, one of the oldest animals known to man. Mohair is only produced by Angora goats’ .Mohair is considered a luxury fibre because it is a silky material and should not be confused with Angora fibres which come from Angora rabbits. And cashmere, which is a softer fibre obtained from another species of goat. Until early in the nineteenth century, Turkey was almost the sole producer of Mohair .As the manufacture of textiles expanded during the pe- riod of the Industrial Revolution, efforts were made to raise the Angora goat in other parts of the world. The An- gora goat, which originated in Turkey, has a coat of long, lustrous hair which provides the textile fibre known as Mohair .Much of the world’s production of Mohair is in Turkey, South Africa and the USA. Mohair is the hair of the Angora goat, native to the province of Angora, Turkey. This species of goat is now raised in South Africa and the United States, principally in Oregon, California, and Texas. The U.S. is now the chief producing country and also the biggest consumer of Mohair .Some domestic Mohair, par- ticularly the Mohair obtained from Texas, is of excellent quality. Imported Mohair is long staple, 9 to 12 inches (230-300 mm) long and allowed a full year‘s growth before shear- ing. Mohair is as warm as wool although it is much lighter in weight making it ideal for traveling. Mohair is also de- sirable due to its warmth, durability and beauty and has been used to make garments for kings, sultans and as part of the tabernacle in the bible. Production – The domestic goat is shorn twice a year, yielding a shorter staple, from 8 to 10 inches (200 -250 mm) .They are usu- ally clipped twice a year, providing about 1.8 – 2.3 kg (4-5 lb) of Mohair per animal at each clip. Good quality Mohair goats will produce 10-20 pounds of Mohair per year in two shearing’s yielding staple lengths of 4-6 inches .Im- ported Mohair can be spun to fineness of Ne 60 in yarn count. The highest count possible for domestic fibre is Ne 40 .The domestic fibre has a great amount of coarse, stiff hair, known as Kemp, which does not process readily or allow thorough penetration of dye. Quality Mohair comes in two basic styles, a ringlet shaped lock with bundles of fibres together and flat wavy locks. Most animals will also have some Kemp or modulated fibres. Kemp fibres have a hollow core ,are coarser and shorter than the Mohair lock and will stick out of the yarn and make a garment feel scratchy .These fibres are the “guard hairs “ that exist to help protect the animal from the weather .Angora goat breeders work hard to breed this out of their stock. This may be why most Angora goats don’t like being in the rain. With little or no guard hairs they can get wet to the skin and need shelter from the rain especially if it is cold. Modulated fibres tend to be as long as the Mohair and still have some hollow characteristics but are not considered to be as big of a problem as kemp. Therefore the quality of the fibre varies, depending on its source and the condi- tions under which the goat has lived. Fleeces are graded into three types as below: 1.Tight lock - It is characterized by its ringlets and is usu- ally very fine. 2. Flat lock - It is wavy and of medium quality. 3. Fluffy or open fleece - It is the least valuable. As in the case of wool, Mohair contains the dead, dull fi- bres that are known as kemps. The fibres vary in length, depending upon the age of the goat. Mohair is typically sold in three grades .These grades are also used as class- es in fleece competition judging. a. Kid – Finest of all grades .It can be in the 19-20 micron range .Usually the first and second shearings from the An- gora goat are kid grade. At six months ,an Angora kid will provide fibres 10-15 cm (4-6 in ) long SUSTAINABLE FIBRE
  • 26. www.textilevaluechain.com26 April 2018 b.Yearly – Fine to medium .Usually the 3rd and 4th shear- ings from the goat although some animals will remain fine past this point and is considered fine adult. At twelve months, they will be 23-30 cm (9-12 in) the goat will be less than 2 years old. c. Adult – While the Angora goat is not considered to be a full adult until 4 years old, adult fleece is generally consid- ered to be any fleece from a goat more than 2 years old. The fibre can be fine, medium or “strong” depending on the quality and age of the animal. The surface of a Mohair fibre has some resemblance to that of wool .It is covered with epidermal scales which are anchored much more closely to the body of the fibre than are wool scales. There are only about half as many scales as there are on wool. Mohair has some 5-6 scales per 100 microns length of fibre, whereas fine wool will have about Properties of Mohair Fibre – It is two – and – a –half times as strong as wool and out- wears it. Unlike sheep’s wool, it is not curly .It is stronger than wool and produces hardwearing fabrics. Mohair re- semble wool in being covered with epithelial scales and in consisting of keratin .But the scales are more smoothly arranged and so Mohair do not felt readily as does wool fibre . Mohair has a circular cross-section. It is a smooth, strong and resilient fibre. It does not attract or hold dirt particles. Mohair fibre is more uniform in diameter than wool fibre. It does not shrink or felt as readily as wool. Mohair is almost non-flammable .When placed under, or near, a naked flame, it tends to shrivel into a bead like ash. Once taken away from the flame, burning stops in- stantaneously. Early Teddy Bears were made from Mo- hair because of this property and because there is less allergic reaction to Mohair than wool. Mohair can be twisted or bend without damaging the fibre .This is due to its structure which established it is the most durable of all animal fibres. Mohair will stretch an average 30 % over its length and then will be able to spring back into shape. Due to this property, Mohair garments resist wrinkling, stretching or sagging during wear. Mohair possesses great strength. Diameter to diameter, it is stronger than steel. Mohair fabrics are wrinkle –resistant and do not mat readily be- cause of the natural resiliency of the fibre. Comparison of properties of Mohair fibre: Blending of Mohair fibres – It is very difficult to spin 100 % yarn. So it is mixed with other fibres to make warm, lightweight fabrics. The hair can be used for knitting yarn. Vardhman and Oswal In- dustries mix Mohair with Acrylic fibre by 10-15 % and make knitting yarn which is used for making sweaters, cardigans etc. Thick, spongy, open fabric, in plain weave, with a very hairy texture .Its composition is usually 70 % Mohair and 30 % wool. Dyeing and finishing of Mohair fibre – Like wool, Mohair is contaminated with natural grease, dirt and vegetable impurities. These may account for as much as one-third of the weight of the raw fibre .The clean, scoured fibre is usually white and silky. Acid dyes and Metal complex dyes are used for dyeing of Mohair fibres. It absorbs dye evenly and permanently. It dyes well and has an attractive luster .The luster of Mohair is one of the most important characteristics .Luster is the natural sheen of the fibre caused by light being reflected more directly by the larger outer scales of the fibre . This luster or sheen helps dyed Mohair resist fading caused by time and the elements and makes it very hard wearing. Different types of functional finishes are given to the Mo- hair fabrics. One of them is it is made mothproof. Uses of Mohair fibre – Uses include fancy goods, felt hats, linings, plushes and in blended yarn‘s for use in men’s and women‘s suit- ing fabrics. It is very expensive. Mohair can be combined with worsted yarn, or woven alone, to produce a very lightweight, shiny, attractive suiting fabric. It is used for men’s lightweight suits, dinner jackets etc. The Mohair / wool blended fabric is bulky and can be used for warm ,lightweight lined coats ,but is best for simple wrap-over jackets, sleeveless waistcoats ,etc. which are unlined ,and is excellent for shawls and stoles .It is soft and may ‘seat’. Mohair is used to a considerable extent for making plush fabrics. Mohair is characterized by its remarkable resistance to properties Mohair silk wool cotton Tenacity gm/ den 2-2.5 1-1.5 1.5-2.0 2-5.5 Elongation ,% 30-40 25-45 25-45 6-10 Density ,gm/ cm3 1.32 1.34- 1.38 1.33 1.50- 1.54 Moisture regain ,% 13 .0 11.0 14-16 9 Acid resist- ance Excellent excel- lent excellent Bad Alkali resist- ance Bad good bad Excel- lent Resistance to moth/fungus Resist- ance to fungus but not to moth Resist- ance to fungus but not to moth Resist- ance to fungus but not to moth Resist- ance to moth but not to fungus U.V resist- ance good bad bad good SUSTAINABLE FIBRE
  • 27. 27www.textilevaluechain.comApril 2018 wear .Mohair fabrics are therefore used wherever dura- bility is the first essential. Upholstery in public vehicles, car hoods, etc are often made from Mohair where resist- ance to wear and tear can be combined with attractive- ness. In combination with wool, Mohair is often used for sum- mer suiting. It is made into all manner of dress materials, plushes and astrakhans. Acknowledgement – The author is thankful to Mr Sub- hash Bhargava FSDC (UK), MD, Colorant Ltd ,Ahmedabad for giving permission to publish this article. Dr N.N.Mahapatra President COLORANT LTD Few New Innovations In Fibers & Yarn 2018 Exhibition Mumbai Nimbark is known for its inno- vative product and in this exhi- bition we introduce the product which contains different types of polyester fibers & yarns. Its gives the feel of wool as well as warm effect, but it is much light in weight. Our latest Linen innovation, more cotton & less Linen used but it feel and look like 100 % Linen and it’s much more cooler then Linen specially for summer season. Printed dyed yarns have been introduced in the exhibition, which is different and better than mélange yarns. Advantage can be Quantity , printed yarns can be serve with less quantity as compare to mélange yarn. Winsome textile believe in Sus- tainable Fibres and fabrics, inno- vative collection like Fabrics give unique double shade effect in sin- gle structure, Fabrics give unique star like effect in galaxy, Fabrics give unique SNOW ON A GRASS LIKE effect on fabric surface, Injec- tion Slub Yarn, Jaspe Yarn, Sparkle & Shing Yarn, Solid Dyed Yarn Product development at Kapotex continues to be one of the key corner stones that maintain its reputation as one of the world’s leading carpet yarn solution provid- ers. Manufacturing facility is located in Sarigam Industri- al Estate, neighboring Vapi in Gujarat, near the city of Mumbai Production facili- ties are contemporary with global standards BRAND INNOVATION Birla Cotsyn Introduced New Garment Brand as YVB (YASH VARDHAN BIRLA ) Birla Cotsyn first time launched its Garment brand YVB ie Yash Vardhan Birla in this exhibition. Birla Cotsyn is one of the giant yarn manufacturer had integrated forwarded and ventured into garment seg- ment with YVB brand Suit- ing which have wide range of Men’s Blazers /Suits. Suits are made up of poly- ester & Viscose fibers. PRODUCT INNOVATION SUSTAINABLE FIBRE INNOVATIONS
  • 28. www.textilevaluechain.com28 April 2018 Fashion Products Development By Inspiration Of Indian Folk Art And Craft Designs FASHION FOCUS Abstract Product development in fashion segment is very chal- lenging for the designers to innovate trends and styles regularly , since consumer are primarily looking for new look in purchasing of the fashion products. As India is marked by its rich traditional heritage of tribal folk arts and culture generated by the tribal and rural people of India, The folk art and craft is also have continued to show case their creative brilliance in various products. Present- ly the art and craft in textiles like warli, madhubani, and aari is gaining much popular among the wearer. Keeping the importance of art and craft in this work we have made an attempt to inspire the old crafts and painting and craft like saura, patachithra, gond and mural painting. The in- spired designs are incorporated in the selective location in woven and knitted apparels by block, screen and hand paintings. An innovative product is also undergone series of subjective evaluation from the wearer’s perspective and reported. The report shows good rating scale from the subjects, the evaluation of rating scale from the ap- parel retailer feedback and their perspective shows good value addition from the innovative product developed from the inspired folk art designs. 1.Introduction Indian paintings are the so-called “folk” paintings dating back to a period that may be referred to as “timeless”. These are living traditions, intrinsically linked with the re- gional historic-cultural settings from which they arise. It has an age-old heritage that can be traced back to the beginning of civilization on this subcontinent. It began with cave paintings, with the natural dyes so strong that they can still be seen today on the walls of the caves af- ter centuries. The folk and tribal painting comes from the remote rural and tribal regions; sometimes the artists of these rustic works are not even educated. They lack the basic means to attend schools, and as they are gifted with such beautiful mean of expression by nature. The vari- ous painting forms coming from these regions began not just as a painting but also as a religious and social ritual performed daily. It began with painting the walls and floor of mud houses. They hide the belief that this purified the ambience and pleased the deities. Various religious and symbols were therefore seen within the painting. The term ‘folk paintings’ here encompasses pictures made in Indian villages by both men and women, for ornamenta- tion of their abodes, portrayals of their gods and for their various rituals; and, by local professional painters or arti- sans for use of the local people. All these paintings were produced in a variety of styles and themes. History, soci- ology and geography infused the painting of each region with local flavor. Their style and quality depended on the materials available in the place in which they were exe- cuted, these very factors that helps to identify the region. Folk art may be defined as the art created among groups that exist within the framework of existing society, but, for geographical and cultural reasons, are largely sepa- rated from the sophisticated and cultural reasons, and the developments of their time. As a result, they produce distinctive styles and objects for local needs and tastes .The common stylistic characters in folk-art are prefer- ence for simple outline and choice of typically representa- tional lines; a simplification of colors and volumes so that shading is eliminated; Stylization of motifs to create deco- rative elements; and repetition of lines, of entire figures, of dots for intensive or rhythmical purpose .Since innova- tion plays a critical important in the apparel and fashion product development , an attempt have been made in developing innovative fashion products by inspiring and implementing the Indian folk art designs in the garment in order to bring awareness and importance of Indian folk art by garment designing.. These designs are incor- porated in the form of block printing, hand painting and screen printing. The opinion about the new product de- veloped is carried out by subjective evaluation from the wear’s perspective and retailers. 2. Indian folk arts 2.1 Saura Saura paintings are from the Saura tribes who live in Oris- sa. Saura tribe is one of the oldest known communities in India. These paintings are found on the mud walls of their houses. The painting usually depict the daily activities in the life of the saura’s .The Saura’s depiction of the human form is similar to that of the warli’s and hence at times, Saura painting are mistaken as Warli paintings. However the two styles of painting differs distinctly in their use of colors, background, and other details. 2.2 Gond Gond art is characterized by the sense of belonging with the nature; it is popularly practiced much by tribal peo- ple of Madhya Pradesh. This painting created in this art is bold, vibrantly colored paintings, depicting mainly flo- ra and fauna. The colors from the char coal, cow dung, leaves, and colored soil. If we look very closely the craft design is made up of dots and lines. 2.3 Patachitra Patachitra painting can be traced back to the 12th century AD it is one of the earliest form of painting practiced by tribal people of Orissa , it is one of the most treasured art in India, Artist followed stylized traditional forms to creates figures of men’s, women’s, fauna in depictions of
  • 29. 29www.textilevaluechain.comApril 2018 mythological tales.. Although several centuries old, pa- tachitra continues to be a living art form practiced even today. 2.4 Mural The roots of the extant mural tradition of kerala could be traced as far back as the seventh and eighth century A.D. It is not unlikely that the early kerala murals along with its architecture came heavily under the influence of Pallava art. The oldest murals in Kerala were discovered in the rock-cut cave temple of Thirunandikkara, which is now in the Kanyakumari District of Tamil Nadu. The hall of the cave must have once been richly decorated with paintings. However at present only sketchy outlines has survived the passage of years. 3. Fashion Product development methods In this work we have taken a survey in leading apparel retail show rooms to find any value addition has given for the garment by Indian folk art designs. The survey is car- ried out in five leading apparel retailer showrooms by examine at least ten garments sample and found out any traditional Indian folk art designs is implemented in the garment. As per our survey the percentage of availability of Indian folk art designs in retail showrooms are very few as the percentage is coming in an average of 17.4%, we have decided to incorporate the Indian folk art designs in gar- ments by machine and hand embroidery, hand painting, screen and block printing . The details of designs used and design development method are mentioned in the table 1. Totally we have constructed eleven garments by using woven and knitted fabrics. In each garment we have applied the folk art designs. Subjective evaluation form the wearers perceptive is also carried by rating scale ask 1- Poor, 2 - Average, 3-Good, 4-Very Good, 5-Excellent) 3.1 Method of applying the design in the fabrics and garments • Block printing: For the block printing rectangular teak wood blocks were taken and the designs are first printed on the paper and stuck on the block on the teakwood piece. With the help of steel chisels of different width, carving of the wood takes place based on the design spec- ification, the fig 1 and 2 shows the wooden block develop- ment. After developing the wooden blocks, the designs are implemented in the garment by dipping the block in the acrylic paint for printing. • Hand painting : For the hand painting acrylic paints are used for painting two to three coats are given, after the completion of painting the garment is allowed to dry for 24 hours and it is pressed in the reverse side, If the press- ing is not carried out the paint will drain off within a wash. • Screen printing: Screen is developed with VINER HAND ITC font style and in the font size of 36 as shown in Fig 3.After finishing the development of screens; it is placed above the garment. It is better to place another fabric or paper under the selected location to avoid the dye smudge. After the screen printing, garments were al- lowed for drying for more than a hour, garment is also pressed in the reverse side. 3.2 Method of implementation of the folk art in gar- ments Table 1 Method of implementation of folk art design Style code Inspiration of Indian folk art designs Product description Method of implemen- tation Target Group/Seg- ment Style 1 Saura Kurta Hand Painting Women’s Wear Style 2 Saura Stole Hand Painting Women’s Wear Style 3 Gond T Shirt Hand Painting Women’s Wear Style 4 Mural T Shirt Hand Painting Women’s Wear Style 5 Mural Skirt Hand Painting Women’s Wear Style 6 Patachitra Kurta Hand Painting Women’s Wear Style 7 Gond Swing Bag Hand painting Men’s wear/ Women’s wear Style 8 Mural Purse Hand painting Women’s wear Style 9 Gond Pillow Cover Hand Painting Home Textile Style 10 Mural Kurta Screen Painting Women’s wear Style 11 Gond Kurta Machine Embroi- dery Men’s Wear FASHION FOCUS
  • 30. www.textilevaluechain.com30 April 2018 4. Innovative folk art Apparel products and Opinion from the wearer perspective The eleven garments were shown to wearer to express their opinion about the folk art design .The customer are preferred novel design of saura and mural art where the scale rating is very good to excellent, the wearer opinion rating is mentioned in the fig 4. In general for other gar- ment styles rating scale falls under good, the innovative concept of folk art design and changing the elements of design enhance the aesthetic appearance of the gar- ments. The apparel retailer is also critically examine all the products as shown in the fig 5.the retailer expressed positive feedback and overwhelming response in selling of the newly innovated and value added fashion product. Figure 3 Screen development Fig 5. Apparel retailer examining the product Fashion Product development Saura- Kurta (Women’s wear) Saura- Kurta (Women’s wear) Mural- Kurta (Women’s wear Gond-T Shirt (Hand painting Gond- Swing Bag (Hand painting Mural-T Shirt Women’s wear (Hand painting) Mural-T Shirt Women’s wear (Hand painting) Mural- Purse (Hand painting) Mural- Wrap over skirt (Hand painting) FASHION FOCUS
  • 31. 31www.textilevaluechain.comApril 2018 CONCLUSION We have successfully developed eleven innovative fashion products by inspiring the Indian folk arts. The products developed were taken for opinion from the customer by conducting the subjective assessment. The subjective rat- ing of eleven products falls in the scale rating of good to excellent for all the products. The is a overwhelming and good response from the retailer perspective, the retailer is also suggested that to concentrate more on accuracy of the hand painting. As the cost of developing product is quiet less, designers and new product apparel product developers will have the huge space in the market for the development of folk art inspired product. Presently con- sumer preference is focusing more on the amalgamation of ethnic and modern design outfit .New innovative folk art products will have good and wider scope in the niche market segment of fashion product development and ap- parel retail space. References cited 1. Shailaga D. Naik, “Traditional embroidery of India”, A.P.H Publishing corporate, 2012. 2. Elaine stone, “The dynamic of fashion”, Fairchild published, 2004. 3. S. Saimen John “Traditional knowledge of folk crafts in Tamil Nadu”, Indian Journal of Traditional knowledge. Vol 9(3), July 2010, pp 443-447. 4. Sivapriya Sekar, “A study on selected folk art forms respects to Indian fashion”, International journal of interdisciplinary research and innova- tions, Vol 2, issue 3, pp (73-78), July 2014. 5. C.P. Patel, “The Saura and the panoramic painting”, Orissa the review, Jan 2005. 6. “Evaluation study of tribal and folk arts and culture in West Bengal”, Orissa, Jharkhand, Chatiskar and Bihar. 7. Hari Chauhan, “Wood carving from Pabbar valley”, Indian journal of traditional knowledge. Vol 4(4), Oct 2005, pp 380-385. 8. Sajnani Manohar, “Encyclopedia of Tourism Resources in India”, Vol 2, (2001). 9. Jaya Jaitly,” Crafts atlas of India”,Niyogi Books, 2012. 10. www.myindianculture.com 11. www.indianfolkarts.com 12. www.archive.india.gov.in 13. www.ignca.gov.in Acknowledgement The authors acknowledge the support given by the Man- agement, the Principal and Head of the Department of Apparel Technology, PSG Polytechnic College for their encouragement and support in completion of this work. Also we thank our students of Apparel Technology M. Dharin, S. Karthik and R. Pavithra devi who contributed for this work. A.N. Sai Krishnan and V. Chandrasekaran Department of Apparel Technology, PSG Polytechnic College, Coimbatore 641 004, India E-mail: vijayysai@gmail.com Exclusive sales & service agent for India Manufactured by : Tomsic S.r.l, Italy. Webpage : www.tomsic.eu E-mail : tomsic@tomsic.it "YOGIDHARA", 2 Nandanvan Society, Indubhai Patel Road, Alkapuri, Vadodara 390 007. Gujarat. India Phone : 0265 2312730 / 2351634. Webpage : www.thymas.com Capacitive measurement Testing Speed : 25-800m/min Standard WINDOWS 10 Desktop Email : thymasltd@gmail.com, tepl26@yahoo.com Measurement method : Constant rate of ellongation (CRE) Automatic 24 position package changer Standard WINDOWS 10 Desktop for Spun Yarn, Roving, Sliver EVENNESS TESTER AUTOMATIC SINGLE YARN TENSILE STRENGTH TESTER for Cotton/Blended Yarn, Wool, POY, Nylon, FDY FASHION FOCUS ADVT.
  • 32. www.textilevaluechain.com32 April 2018 INTRODUCTION There are seven major parameters of a fabric structure which govern the properties of the fabric - type of fibre, linear density of yarn, epi x ppi and fabric weave. The weave of a fabric depends on its end use, which impacts the functional and aesthetic properties of the fabric to a greater extent. Therefore a coherent design of a fabric in- volves understanding of correlation between fabric struc- ture and its functional as well as aesthetic properties. The properties of a fabric vary with weave due to introduction of parameters like float length and number of cross-over points. The purpose of this study is to investigate the ef- fect of weave on different physical properties of fabric. METHODOLOGY The weaves considered for this study were Plain, 2/1 Twill, 2/2 Twill, 3/1 Twill and 5E Satin. All the fabrics have same fibre, count and construction – 30s Modal having a con- struction of 72 x 72, along with same machine parame- ters. The weave designs of the fabrics are shown in the figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5. Figure 4.3/1 Twill Figure 1. Plain Figure 2. 2/1 Twil Figure 3. 2/2 Twill Figure 5. 5End Satin S r . No. Warp Weft Weave EPI PPI 1 30s Modal 30s Modal Plain 72 72 2 30s Modal 30s Modal 2/1 Twill 72 72 3 30s Modal 30s Modal 2/2 Twill 72 72 4 30s Modal 30s Modal 3/1 Twill 72 72 5 30s Modal 30s Modal Satin 72 72 Table 1. Fabric Parameters The yarns were sized prior to weaving. The size box is electrically heated and the temperature is electronically controlled. Roller type electrically-heated drying through contact is achieved. The size recipe that was taken is as follows: PVA 2 Kg Water 30 Kg Size Box Temperature 90 °C Drying Temperature 100 °C Table 2. Sizing recipe The trials were taken on CCI Automatic Sampling Loom SL8900. Details of the loom are given below: Weving Width 18 inches Speed / RPM 30 RPM Shedding Dobby Shedding. Maximum 20 heald frames driven pneumatically by air cyl- inders Weft Insertion Single Side Flexible Rapier Weft Selector Maximum 8 colours electronic weft se- lection device Selvedge Leno Table 3. Loom parameters of CCI Automatic Sampling Loom SL8900 After being woven, the fabrics were pre-treated with iden- tical processing conditions and parameters. Process Route Processing Condition Machine 1. SINGEING Speed 70mpm two rounds. Singeing 2. DESIZING Desizing Enzyme: 2 gpl Singeing mach- ing+ rotating station Wetting agent: 1 gpl 3. WASHING First a boil wash at 90°C, 2ends. Jigger Sample check for desizing 4. CAUSTIC TREATMENT Caustic Flacks: 45gpl run at RT, 2 ends. Jigger 5. WASHING First a boil wash at 90°C, 2 ends. Jigger 6. SCOURING Soda Ash: 2gpl Jigger Soap: 2gpl Run at 80°C, 2 ends. 7. WASHING Hot wash at 80°C 2 ends. Jigger Cold wash at 50°C 2 ends. 8. DRYING At 100°C Lab Mini-Stenter 9. CHEMICAL FINISHING Softener as per requirement Lab Mini-Stenter Binder as per requirement Acid- 0.5gpl Dry at 120°C Table 4. Wet Process Route and Recipe All tests were carried out under alike testing conditions i.e. 27 ± 2 °C temperature and 65% Relative Humidity. Impact Of Weave On Functional Properties Of Fabrics TECHNICAL ARTICLE
  • 33. 33www.textilevaluechain.comApril 2018 RESULTS AND DISCUSSIONS Sr. No. Weave Fin- ished R x P Thick- ness Shrinkage Tear- ing CRA Water Ab- sorb- ancy Tensile Strength Air Per- me- ability Warp Weft Warp Weft Warp Weft Warp Weft mm % % N N ° ° Sec- onds kg Kg l/m2/s 1 Plain 84X80 0.4 -0.62 0 17.56 17.14 83 84 0.244 23.2 21.5 545.4 2 2/1 Twill 88X82 0.51 -2.5 0.62 22.16 16.51 105.5 110 0.33 24.3 15.1 674.2 3 2/2 Twill 86X78 0.53 -1.25 -1.25 22.78 18.18 98.5 100 0.252 26.3 11.1 734.6 4 3/1 Twill 86X78 0.494 -2.5 -2.5 30.73 21.74 103 95 0.272 25.6 16 813.8 5 Satin 86X76 0.512 -3.75 -4.37 42.23 38.46 102 112 0.27 18.8 20.2 1390 Table 5. Test Results 1.Shrinkage Testing the effect of washing and drying on dimensional stability of the fabric gives information about the fabric types and is thus useful for the end consumer. It is ob- served that type of weave has a significant effect on the dimensional behavior of fabrics. Plain weave is showing the lowest shrinkage because of higher number of inter- lacement points. On the other hand, satin weave with the lowest number of interlacement points has shown the highest shrinkage. Figure 6. Effect of weave on shrinkage 2.Tensile Strength Tensile strength can be defined as maximum load a test specimen can withstand when subjected to uni-axial loading. The strength of fabric depends not only on yarn strength and its constituting fibre’sstrength but also on its fabric structure. Plain woven fabrics tend to show high- est tensile strength as the interlacement points are more, providing a higher contact area, hence leading to greater frictional force and resistance to slippage of yarns in the fabric. On the other hand, tensile strength decreases as we go from plain to twill and to satin, reason being in- creasing floats and lesser binding points Figure 7. Effect of weave on tensile strength 3. Tearing Strength The results illustrate highest tearing strength in satin fab- ric followed by 3/1 twill, 2/2 twill, 2/1 Twill and plain woven fabrics. 2/2 twill and 2/1 Twill fabrics show nearly same strength values. The reason being the loose structure (long floats) of satin fabric which gives chance for group- ing of threads to occur, resulting in high tear resistance. While in plain fabrics, as the binding points are relatively more, the thread movement decreases, hence tearing re- sistance drops. Figure 8. Effect of weave on tearing strength 4. Water Absorbency There are several factors which affect water absorbency like fibre type, GSM, thickness of fabric and weave. It is TECHNICAL ARTICLE
  • 34. www.textilevaluechain.com34 April 2018 seen that as the float decreases, the pore size in the fabric decreases. And as the fabric is wetted, the yarns swell, thus blocking the pores in between them. Therefore, a loosely woven fabric is prone to have higher water absor- bency, as depicted in the below graph Figure 10. Effect of weave on water absorbency 5. Air Permeability Air permeability is another property that depends on size of pores and inter-thread channels in a fabric which are reliant on fabric structure. It can be clearly seen from the figure, the air permeability increases with increase in float length as the increment in float length makes the fabric loose to allow air to penetrate through it, and vice-versa. Figure 11. Effect of weave on air permeability CONCLUSION The forgoing discussion gives an idea about the relation between fabric structure and its properties which is wrapped up as below: • As the number of interlacement points in the weave increase, the fabric shrinkage lowers after processing, while its tensile strength increases. • Loose structure of fabric results into high tearing strength because of grouping of threads when the load is applied. On the other hand, an increase in number of binding points in the structure restricts the thread movement, thus reducing the tearing strength of the fabric. • A fabric with higher floats is likely to absorb more water as com- pared to that with that is tightly constructed with more binding points, because a fabric with more binding points and tight construction has smaller pore size which decreases further as the fabric gets wet due to swelling of constituting yarns. • Likewise, air permeability also depends on pore size and is found to be more in fabrics with more number of floats. VDMA: German Technology meets Indian Textiles and Nonwovens Decision-makers from the Indian textile and nonwoven industry are warmly invited to register under www. germantech-indiantextile.de for the next VDMA Textile Machinery Confer- ence and B2B-Forum from 15 to 16 May 2018 in Mumbai (Hotel The Leela). Registration is mandatory. The VDMA will bear organizational costs (no entrance fee). Deadline for registration: April 30, 2018. The VDMA organizes the event in close co-operation with the VDMA India Office, important media partners and In- dian textile associations such as CITI. More than 30 well- known VDMA textile machinery and component will hold 36 application-oriented presentations about spinning, knitting, weaving, finishing, dyeing and embroidery. Oth- er important cross topics, such as automation, digitaliza- tion (Industry 4.0) and smart production technologies will show all kind of Indian textile manufacturers how to im- prove their competitiveness. State-of-the-art-technology will be presented in three sessions: • Textile machinery & components for the fiber & yarn in- dustry (May 15, 2018) • Textile machinery & components for the technical tex- tiles and nonwovens industry (May 15 & 16, 2018) • Textile machinery & components for the apparel, home textile & carpet industry Networking among the participants and experts will be reached also through a B2B meeting area and conference dinner / high tea. In addition, a training seminar at VeermataJijabai Tech- nological Institute will take place on 17 May 2018 at the premises of VJTI in Mumbai. Mrs. Regina Brückner, chair- person of the VDMA Textile Machinery Association states: “The knowledge needed to keep up in the textile business is changing at a faster rate, which makes lifelong learning a must. The knowledge transfer at the VDMA event will improve the competitiveness of the Indian textile industry not only in the short but also in the medium and long- term. The students of today are the decision-makers and technical managers of tomorrow.” TECHNICAL ARTICLE Mr. Ganesh Jadhav (Manager-TRADC), Ms. Ankita Kaushik (Asst. Manager-TRADC)
  • 35. 35www.textilevaluechain.comApril 2018 TEXTILE INDUSTRY: MOVING BEYOND THE CONVENTIONAL PARA- DIGMS - 9TH ASIAN TEXTILE CONFERENCE (ATEXCON) Confederation of Indian Textile Industry (CITI) organised its 9th Asian Textile Conference on 14th March 2018 in Hotel ITC Maratha, Mumbai. The theme of the Conference was “Textile Industry: Moving Beyond the Conventional Paradigms”. The event was inaugurated by Dr.Kavita Gupta, IAS, Textile Commissioner, Government of India. Dr. Kavita Gupta acknowledged and congratulated the in- dustry for reaching to a level where they can leapfrog into a different orbit. She highlighted the need to integrate MSMEs to achieve the inclusive growth of the sector. The highlight of her address was the brief history of Indian textile sector which spanned from the age of poet and weaver, Kabir up to the state-of-the-art infrastructure be- ing developed in Indian textile parks these days. Mr. Sanjay K. Jain, Chairman, CITI delivered the Welcome Address and wherein he highlighted the importance of being disruptive and innovative in order to maintain the vibrancy and energy in this sector. Mr. Jain also requested the government and industry to look for out of box so- lutions to resolve the long pending issues plaguing the textile and apparel sectors of the industry. Mr. Sanjay Jayavarthanavelu, CMD, Lakshmi Machine Works Ltd. - the Principal Sponsor of the Event - delivered the Special Address in the Inaugural Session. In his special address he highlighted the scope and challenges of the textile machinery industry in India.The theme presenta- tion delivered by Mr. Prashant Agarwal, Joint MD, Wazir Advisors, knowledge partner to ATEXCON, presented the global trends which are changing the shape of industry and focused on initiatives required to be taken up by in- dustry to keep pace. Mr. T. Rajkumar, Deputy Chairman, CITI proposed Vote of Thanks in the inaugural session and Mr. D. L. Sharma, Vice Chairman, CITI proposed Vote of Thanks in the con- cluding session. The conference featured four Sessions on Sub-themes related to Policy Support, Innovation, Global Value Chain and Retail. The sessions featured who’s who of the Indian textile and apparel sector including private companies, in- dustry associations & councils, machinery suppliers, and other service providers. Each of the session had elaborate discussion and presentations on the current status and the shape of things to come. The panelists’ growth story, remarks and future ideas kept the large audience fully en- gaged in the conference. The event saw the overwhelming response from the textile industry and more than 450 delegates, including eminent international speakers and leading textile com- panies from India and abroad attended the mega event. SHOW REPORT TAI –Vidarbha 15th International & 73rd All India Textile Conference “Fibre to Fashion – Integrated Growth Roadmap” After its enormous success in 1979, 2006 & 2015, The Tex- tile Association (India) – Vidarbha has successfully hosted 15th International & 73rdAll India Textile Conference in Nagpur, on “Fibre to Fashion - Integrated Growth Road- map “on 02nd & 03rd February, 2018 at Dr. Vasantrao Deshpande Auditorium, Nagpur. Dignitaries lighting the lamp at inaugural function At the inaugural function Shri. Arvind Sinha, TAI, Presi- dent, and Central Office: R. K. Dubey, President, TAI, Vid- arbha Unit: Dr. Hemant Sonare, Conference Chairman, Hon. Secretary, TAI-Vidarbha & newly elected Chairman- Textile Association of India, T. K. Sengupta, Newly elected President, TAI, Central Office: Dr. U. N. Wagmare, Direc- tor, CICR, Guest Of Honor, Hon. Shri. Anil Joshi, Ex Tex- Dignitaries lighting the lamp at inaugural function