April 2019 issue

www.textilevaluechain.com
APRIL 2019 Volume 7 Issue 4
Registered with Registrar of Newspapers under | RNI NO: MAHENG/2012/43707
Postal Registration No. MNE/346/2018-20 published on 5th of every month,
TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN posted at Mumbai, Patrika Channel Sorting Oﬃce,Pantnagar, Ghatkopar-400075,
posting date 18/19 of month | Pages 60
Market Report: Cotton, Yarn, Textile Chemical, Apparel Index
Sustainable Fibre: Spandex Fibre
ITMA Innovations: RETECH, USTER, SAURER, Santex Rimar, Autefa,
Meera Industries, Amsler, Benninger, TMAS, Crealet
Interviews :
Sanjay Jain, MD, TT Ltd.
Ajit B. Chavan, Secretary, Textiles Committee
Rajendra Agarwal, MD, Donear Industries
COVER APRIL 2019.ai 1 23-04-2019 00:56:40

2 www.textilevaluechain.com April 2019
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3www.textilevaluechain.comApril 2019
Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Segment with the product brands
Oerlikon Barmag and Oerlikon Neumag is the world market
leader for filament spinning systems, texturing machines and
BCF carpet yarn, staple fiber spinning as well as nonwovens
solutions.
Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Segment welcomes you
to the ITMA Barcelona, Spain, June 20-26, 2019 in
hall H7 / booth A101.
From Melt to Yarn,
Fibers and Nonwovens
Spinning
Continuous Polycondensation
Transfer Line
Gear Metering
Pumps
Dofﬁng
Spinning/
Quenching
Take-up/Winding
Creeling Drying Cutting
BalingDrawing/Cooling
Texturing
For further information visit us at
www.oerlikon.com/manmade-fibers
OE_ANZ_Textile Value Chain 279x213_ITMA-B_01.indd 1 03.04.19 12:13

Visit us at
ITMA 2019 .
Stall No.H7 - C125
Barcelona, Spain
20 - 26, June 2019

www.textilevaluechain.com46 March 2018
Contact:
Suresh Saraf+91 9322 50 4449 / +91 9322 10 4449 | Nayan Saraf - +91 7498 88 1400
Oﬃce Landline - 91-22-6002 0119 /
Email : sureshsaraf2000@yahoo.co.in | info@shreebalajisynfabs.com
sureshsaraf@shreebalajisynfabs.com | Website : www.shreebalajisynfabs.com
Address: Room No.-17, Ground Floor, 342 Kalbadevi Road, Mumbai- 400002
9699 25 8834
SHREE BALAJI SYNFABS
SKBS
MR.SURESH SARAF MR. NAYAN SARAF

M/s. World Traders MFG. Co.
1413, Maker Chambers V, 13th Floor, Nariman Point,
Mumbai 400 021(India)
Phone: 91-22-2284 3423/2287 2935/2283 3458, Fax: 91-22-22872534
E-Mail: info@wtmcindia.com
Website : www.wtmcindia.in / www.wtmcindia.com
AutomaticFibre-Length-,Impurity-andSpinnability
TesterplusLaboratorySpinningMachine
One of the most important quality concerns of a spinning mill is the purity grade of the raw material.
Textechno’s latest version of the Micro-Dust and Trash Analyser, the MDTA-4, separates the clean
Cotton from impurities and precisely analyses the dust content, fibre fragments, short fibres,
neps, seed-coat neps and trash particles. Dust & fibre fragments are seperated from the other
impurities by appropriate filters and thereby analysed seperately.
MDTA-4
Impurities Testing
Technical Data MDTA-4
Automatic Fibre-Length-, Impurity-and Spinnability
Tester plus Laboratory Spinning Machine
It analyses microdust, fibre fragments, fibre neps,
fused Fibre, digomerz, seed-coat neps and trash
content of short and medium staple natural and
man-made fibre samples as well as the individual
-fibre length and opening work. It provides the
clean fibres in form of a silver for the further
testing, blending or spinning.
Fields of application :
l
purchase.
Accurate evaluation of fibre material prior to
MDTA 4 : Delivers the following data regarding the all fibers :
- Cleanability - Extraction of fibre impurities.
- Fibre cohesion
- Opening behavior
- Stickiness
lSupplies information on tendencies and influences, resulting from different raw materials.
lProvides for accurate forecasting of yarn properties and their processability.
lEnables cost effective compositions of various fibre materials.
lPrepares an oriented sliver in the rotoring for further processing.
lAutomatic fibre length measurement by means of image processing software.
lEasy, efficient and replicated production of
fibre blends and mixtures from a cost effective
perspective.
lClear evaluation of the cleaning degree of both opening and cleaning machinery.
lDetermination of nep sensitivity of raw material processing of man-made fibres to evaluate
the effects of spinfinish, spinning properties and possible deposits (Powdering).

3 4 5 AUGUST 2019
SURAT - GUJARAT - INDIA
Media Partner

49www.textilevaluechain.comJune 2018
51www.textilevaluechain.comMarch 2018
DN Associates represent in India the following Textile Machinery & Accessories manufacturers
N.Schlumberger, France : Spinning preparatory machines for
Spun and filament LONG fibres (Website:www.nsc-schlumberger.com)
ANDRITZ Asselin Thibeau, France : Complete Nonwoven Lines : Drylaid-
Needlepunched, Hydroentangled and others, Wetlaid, Spunlaid and special machines
for chemical/hydro finishing (Website:www.andritz.com/nonwoven)
Laroche SA, France: Opening and Blending Lines, Textile waste recycling Lines and
“Airlay” Nonwoven Lines (Website: www.laroche.fr)
LACOM GmbH, Germany : Hotmelt Laminating and Coating Systems – Multi Purpose,
Multi Roller, Gravure Roller and Slot Die for complete range of Technical Textiles
(Website:www.lacom-online.de)
Schott & Meissner, Germany : Ovens, Dryers, Heat Recovery Systems,
Heating/cooling calenders, Wet/Dry cooling systems, Cutters, accumulators,
Winders, Palletisers and Bonding systems (Website: www.schott-meissner.de)
Mariplast Spa, Italy : All type of Yarn Carriers for spun and filament yarns including
dye tubes for filament/long fibre yarns (Website: www.mariplast.com)
MORCHEM S.A.U., Spain : PUR Hotmelt Adhesives for Technical Textiles, Solvent
Based, Water Based adhesives, cleaners and primers
https://www.morchem.com/markets-and-solutions/textile-lamination/
Valvan Baling Systems, Belgium : Baling and Bump forming machines for spun fibres
and textiles waste recycling lines (Website:www.valvan.com)
C + L Textilmaschinen GmbH, Germany : Reeling (Yarn Hank Forming) Machines,
steaming, Bulking and Banding Machines for yarns (for Western and Southern India)
(Website:www.croon-lucke.com)
Schmauser Precision GmbH, Germany : Pin Strips, Faller Bars, Disposable Faller Bars
for Intersecting Gills and Chain Gills. Top Combs for Combing Machines in long fibre
Spinning Preparatory Lines (website: www.schmauser.com)
Groz-Beckert Carding Belgium NV, Belgium : Clothing for Cards and Cylinders used in
processing of long fibres, nonwovens and waste recycling
(website:www.groz-beckert.com)
FARE' S.p.A., Italy : Complete Lines for Spunbond / Meltblown nonwoven products
/complete line to produce all type of fibers including mono and bicomponent
including PET and PET fibers. Machines for producing Tapes and Rafia
(website www.farespa.com)
Contact : DN Associates E-mail : info@dnassociates.co.in Website: www.dnassociates.co.in
H.O.:
406, “Kaveri” Jagannath Mandir Marg, Opp. Holiday Inn, Near Sakinaka Metro Station, Mumbai–400 072
Contact Person : Mr. Hemant Dantkale Mobile : 98201 06018 Phone No.: 022-28516018
E-mail : hdantkale@dnassociates.co.in
B-310, Universal Meadows, Plot No. 27, New Sneh Nagar, Wardha Road, Nagpur – 440 015
Regd.Office:
Contact Person : Mr. Yogesh Nawandar Mobile : 98901 53766 Phone No. :0712-2289662
E-mail : ynawandar@dnassociates.co.in
Branch Office at Coimbatore

April 2019CONTENT
13 - SUSTAINABLE FIBER : Clothing from Spandex
Fibers by Dr. N.N.Mahapatra
17- FABRIC FOCUS: Energy Efficiency Opportunities in
Woven Fabric manufacturing in Ludhiana
by Prerna Kapila And B.S. Dhillon
19- TECHNICAL ARTICLE:
Eco Friendly processing of Cotton by DKTE Professors
MARKET REPORT
22- COTTON REPORT by MCX India
23- YARN REPORT by Textile Beacon
25- Textile Chemicals Market Report by Transparency Market
Research
27- CMAI Apparel Index
29- SURAT REPORT by TVC Reporter
TECHNICAL TEXTILE
30- Life after life , an Anatomy of the growing flushable wipe
dilemma By Jürgen Eizinger, Lenzing AG
EVENT UPDATE
31- ITAMMA’s Legacy of 75 Years Continue with the Next Generation
33- Jamboree Fashion Show 2019
ITMA 2019 INNOVATIONS
36- RETECH
38- USTER
39- SAURER
40- SANTEX
40-AMSLER
41- MEERA
EDITORIAL TEAM
Editor and Publisher : Ms. Jigna Shah
Chief Editor : Mr. Bhavesh Thakar
Graphic Designer : Mr. Anant A. Jogale
Associate Editor : Mr. Swaminathan
INDUSTRY
Mr. Devchand Chheda : City Editor - Vyapar ( Jan mabhumi Group)
Mr. Manohar Samuel : President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries
Mr. Shailendra Pandey : VP (Head – Sales and Marketing), Indian Rayon
Mr. Ajay Sharma : GM RSWM (LNJ Bhilwara Group)
Mr. Avinash Mayekar : Consulting Editor
Dr. N.N. Mahapatra : Business Head (DYES),
Shree Pushkar Chemicals & Fertilisers Ltd.
Mr. R.D. Udeshi : President- Polyester Chain,
Reliance Industries Ltd.
EDUCATION / RESEARCH
Mr. B.V. Doctor : HOD knitting, SASMIRA
Dr. Ela Dedhia : Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College
Dr. Mangesh D. Teli : Professor, Dean ICT
Mr. R.M. Shankar : Asst. Director, ATIRA
All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of any of the content from
this issue is prohibited without explicit written permission of the publisher.
Every effort has been made to ensure and present factual and accurate
information. The views expressed in the articles published in this magazine
are that of the respective authors and not necessarily that of the publisher.
Textile Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely errors that might
occur or any steps taken based in the information provided herewith.
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Advertiser Index
42- Benninger
43- Autefa
44- TMAS
46- Crealet AG
NEWS
47-RAYMOND Launches EcoVera in collaboration with Reliance
Industries
48-ATE and LUWA mark a Decade of working together
49- Birla Cellulose conducts successful hub meet in Salem
50- SHOW CALENDAR
INTERVIEWS
51- Sanjay Jain , MD, TT Limited
52- Ajit Chavan, Secretary, Textiles Committee
55- Rajendra Agarwal, MD, Donear Industries Ltd.
53- ASSOCIATION UPDATE : SWISS Textile Machinery
Back Page: Raymond
Front Inside : PICANOL
Back Inside : Trutzschler
Page 3: Oerlikon
Page 4: Sanjay Plastic
Page 5: LRT
Page 6: SKBS
Page 7: World Trader
Page 8: Yarn Expo Surat
Page 9: DN Associates
Page 10: ITMA 2019
Page 16: Tomsic /Thymas
Page 53: RETECH
Page 56: Vora Associates
Page 57: Gartex Texprocess
Page 58: ITMACH 2019

‘‘
TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY UP GRADATION IS NEED IN
THIS TRANSITION STAGE…!
ITMA 2019, wait for entire industry will be over in few weeks’ time.
We will be exploring lot of innovations by Indian and International
machinery companies in largest Textile/ Garment Technology Exhi-
bition in Barcelona / Spain. ITMA sets the trend and provide market-
place and knowledge platform for user industry who will be explor-
ing fresh ideas, right solutions to their problems and encouraging
collaborative business partnerships for growth.
Entire industry in the world hoping for something good to happen
in this depressing time. Across the world industrialist is making hue-
cry for not getting enough business, good margins and survival is
tough to across the value chain from Ginner to Retailers.
Indian industry going through transition stage where old technol-
ogy need to be replaced by new, SME feeling pinch and shut down
their industries instead of taking this in right spirit. To be competi-
tive in the global market; Innovation, synergy with value chain part-
ner, knowledge of market updates, Machine lifecycle, maintenance,
which technology is good for which product knowledge is must. For
Cotton /blended fabrics: Airjet loom, for Synthetic fabrics: Water jet
looms, For Furnishing fabric: Rapier looms are best. Different coun-
tries around the world offering different technology benefits along
with Digital solution, good service and availability of spare parts in
the country/ area. Indian SME sector need to come out of fear , add
technology cost to the final price to make company viable to run.
Indian Power loom owner can take advantage of Group work shed
scheme for maximum benefits.
We wish maximum Indian Textile Entrepreneur visit the exhibition
and choose the best technology with service and digitally advanced
machines.
Wish you all Productive Growth and See you at ITMA , Barcelona..!
Visit TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN Stall No. Hall No. 8.1 , Stall : D230
There is no innovation
and creativity without
failure period.
’’
Ms. Jigna Shah
Editor and Publisher
EDITORTIAL
- Brene Brown

CLOTHING FROM SPANDEX FIBRES
Today fashion designers are much conscious than
ever and have up-to date information about the latest
fashion trends . The present day consumer demands
fashionable garments ,which offer comfort and style ,
stretch and flexibility , freedom and figure enhancement
,as he takes it as the tool of expressing his personality .As
far as comfort is concerned ,polyester/cotton blends are
more popular than pure polyester . All cotton garments
may be comfortable but have wrinkle problems . It is here
Spandex comes to our help in offering wrinkle resistance
and garment integrity while offering extra comfort . The
wearer of Spandex –containing garment feels less fa-
tigued and muscle strain than the one wearing garments
without Spandex . This value of Spandex is well recog-
nized by the fabric and apparel manufacturers as well as
the consumers .
The development of spandex was started during World
War II. At this time, chemists took on the challenge of de-
veloping synthetic replacements for rubber. Two primary
motivating factors prompted their research. First, the war
effort required most of the available rubber for building
equipment. Second, the price of rubber was unstable and
it fluctuated frequently. Developing an alternative to rub-
ber could solve both of these problems. At first, their goal
was to develop a durable elastic strand based on synthet-
ic polymers . In 1940, the first polyurethane elastomers
were produced. These polymers produced millable gums,
which were an adequate alternative to rubber. Around
the same time, scientists at Du Pont produced the first ny-
lon polymers. These early nylon polymers were stiff and
rigid, so efforts were begun to make them more elastic.
When scientists found that other polyurethanes could be
made into fine threads, they decided that these materials
might be useful in making more stretchable nylons or in
making lightweight garments.
The first spandex fibers were produced on an experimen-
tal level by one of the early pioneers in polymer chem-
istry, Farbenfabriken Bayer. He earned a German patent
for his synthesis in 1952. The final development of the
fibers were worked out independently by scientists at Du
Pont and the U.S. Rubber Company. Du Pont used the
brand name Lycra and began full scale manufacture in
1962. They are currently the world leader in the produc-
tion of spandex fibers.
The first spandex fibers were produced on an experi-
mental level by one of the early pioneers in polymer
chemistry, Farbenfabriken Bayer. He earned a German
patent for his synthesis in 1952. The final development of
the fibers were worked out independently by scientists at
Du Pont and the U.S. Rubber Company. Du Pont used the
brand name Lycra and began full scale manufacture in
1962. They are currently the world leader in the produc-
tion of spandex fibers.
Spandex, Lycra or elastane, is a synthetic fiber known
for its exceptional elasticity. It is one and the same .It
is stronger and more durable than rubber, its major
non-synthetic competitor. It is a polyurethane-polyurea
copolymer that was invented in 1959 by chemist Joseph
Shivers at DuPont’s Benger Laboratory in Waynesboro,
Virginia. The material was patented by the Spanjian broth-
ers—Robert and Richard—and was further used in their
company, Spanjian Sportwear. When first introduced, it
revolutionized many areas of the clothing industry.The
product name “Spandex” was given to the Spanjian family
after DuPont recognized their contributions. “Spandex” is
the preferred name in North America and in many Eu-
ropean countries it is referred to as “elastane”. In India
it is commonly used as Lycra. A brand name associated
with spandex is Lycra (owned by Invista). Other spandex
trademarks include Elaspan (also Invista’s), creora (Hyo-
sung, ROICA & Dorlastan (Asahi Kasei), Linel (Fillattice),
and ESPA (Toyobo).
Materials Used for Spandex Fibers
Many raw materials are used to make the unique
stretchable spandex fibers. They include prepolymers
which produce the backbone of the fiber, stabilizers
which protect the integrity of the polymer, and textile
colorants to give attractive shades to the fibers and the
spandex fabrics. Two kinds of prepolymers are reacted
to produce the spandex fiber polymer back-bone- the
flexible macroglycol and the rigid diisocyanate. Macro-
glycol can be anything from among polyester, polyether,
polycarbonate, polycaprolactone or some combination of
these. These are long and flexible chain polymers having
hydroxyl groups (-OH) on both ends, responsible for the
stretching characteristic of spandex. The polymeric diiso-
cyanate is a shorter and rigid chain polymer, having an
isocyanate (-NCO) group on both ends. This molecule pro-
vides strength to the spandex fibers. Catalyst such as di-
azobicyclo octane is used to initiate reaction between the
two types of prepolymers. Other low molecular weight
amines are used to control the molecular weight of the
fibers.
Apart from the basic prepolymers, catalysts etc. stabiliz-
ers, such as antioxidants, are added to protect the fibers
from damaging sources like heat, light, atmospheric con-
taminants, and chlorine. Ultraviolet (UV) screeners such
as hydroxybenzotriazoles are added to protect it against
light degradation. Other stabilizers such as for preventing
discoloration caused by atmospheric pollutants may also
SUSTAINABLE FIBER

be used. As spandex is often used for making swim wear,
anti-mildew additives are also added to it. Stabilizers add-
ed to the spandex fibers, are resistant to solvent expo-
sure as this could have a damaging effect on the fiber.
Dispersed and acid dyes are typically used for giving color
to spandex fibers. However, special dyeing methods are
adopted if the spandex fibers are interwoven with other
fibers such as nylon fiber or polyester fiber.
A variety of raw materials are used to produce stretchable
spandex fibers. This includes prepolymers which produce
the backbone of the fiber, stabilizers which protect the
integrity of the polymer, and colorants.
Two types of prepolymers are reacted to produce the
spandex fiber polymer back-bone. One is a flexible macro
glycol while the other is a stiff diisocyanate. The macro-
glycol can be a polyester, polyether, polycarbonate, poly-
caprolactone or some combination of these. These are
long chain polymers, which have hydroxyl groups (-OH)
on both ends. The important feature of these molecules
is that they are long and flexible. This part of the spandex
fiber is responsible for its stretching characteristic. The
other prepolymer used to produce spandex is a polymer-
ic diisocyanate. This is a shorter chain polymer, which has
an isocyanate (-NCO) group on both ends. The principal
characteristic of this molecule is its rigidity. In the fiber,
this molecule provides strength.
When the two types of prepolymers are mixed together,
they interact to form the spandex fibers. In this reaction,
the hydroxyl groups (-OH) on the macro glycols react with
the isocyanates. Each molecule gets added on to the end
of another molecule, and a long chain polymer is formed.
This is known as a step-growth or addition polymeriza-
tion. To initiate this reaction, a catalyst such as diazobi-
cyclo[2.2.2]octane must be used. Other low molecular
weight amines are added to control the molecular weight
of the fibers.
Spandex fibers are vulnerable to damage from a variety of
sources including heat, light atmospheric contaminants,
and chlorine. For this reason, stabilizers are added to pro-
tect the fibers. Antioxidants are one type of stabilizer.
Various antioxidants are added to the fibers, including
monomeric and polymeric hindered phenols. To protect
against light degradation, ultraviolet (UV) screeners such
as hydroxybenzotriazoles are added. Compounds which
inhibit fiber discoloration caused by atmospheric pollut-
ants are another type of stabilizer added. These are typi-
cally compounds with tertiary amine functionality, which
can interact with the oxides of nitrogen in air pollution.
Since spandex is often used for swimwear, anti-mildew
additives must also be added. All of the stabilizers that
are added to the spandex fibers are designed to be resist-
ant to solvent exposure since this could have a damaging
effect on the fiber.
When they are first produced, spandex fibers are white.
Therefore, colorants are added to improve their aesthetic
appearance. Dispersed and acid dyes are typically used. If
the spandex fibers are interwoven with other fibers such
as nylon or polyester, special dying methods are required
Manufacturing Process
Spandex fibers are produced in four different ways
including melt extrusion, reaction spinning, solution dry
spinning, and solution wet spinning. Each of these meth-
ods involve the initial step of reacting monomers to pro-
duce a prepolymer. Then the prepolymer is reacted fur-
ther, in various ways, and drawn out to produce a long
fiber. Since solution dry spinning is used to produce over
90% of the world’s spandex fibers, it is described.
Polymer reactions
The first step in the production of spandex is the produc-
tion of the prepolymer. This is done by mixing a macro-
glycol with a diisocyanate monomer. The compounds are
mixed in a reaction vessel and under the right conditions
they react to form a prepolymer. Since the ratio of the
component materials produces fibers with varying char-
acteristics, it is strictly controlled. A typical ratio of glycol
to diisocyanate may be 1:2.
In dry spinning fiber production, the prepolymer is fur-
ther reacted with an equal amount of diamine. This is
known as a chain extension reaction. The resulting solu-
tion is diluted with a solvent to produce the spinning so-
lution. The solvent helps make the solution thinner and
more easily handled. It can then be pumped into the fiber
production cell.
Producing the fibers
The spinning solution is pumped into a cylindrical spin-
ning cell where it is cured and converted into fibers. In
this cell, the polymer solution is forced through a metal
plate, called a spinneret, which has small holes through-
out. This causes the solution to be aligned in strands of
liquid polymer. As the strands pass through the cell, they
are heated in the presence of a nitrogen and solvent gas.
These conditions cause the liquid polymer to chemically
react and form solid strands.
As the fibers exit the cell, a specific amount of the solid
strands are bundled together to produce the desired
thickness. This is done with a compressed air device that
twists the fibers together. In reality, each fiber of spandex
is made up of many smaller individual fibers that adhere
to one another due to the natural stickiness of their sur-
face.
Final processing
The fibers are then treated with a finishing agent. This
may be magnesium stearate or another polymer such
as poly(dimethyl-siloxane). These finishing materials pre-
vent the fibers from sticking together and aid in textile
manufacture. After this treatment, the fibers are trans-
SUSTAINABLE FIBER

SUSTAINABLE FIBER
ferred through a series of rollers onto a spool. The win-
dup speed of the entire process can be anywhere from
300-500 mi (482.7-804.5 km) per minute depending on
the thickness of the fibers.
When the spools are filled with fiber, they are put into
final packaging and shipped to textile manufacturers and
other customers. Here, the fibers may be woven with
other fibers such as cotton or nylon to produce the fabric
that is used in clothing manufacture. This fabric can also
be dyed to produce a desired color.
Properties of Spandex Fibre
The most significant characteristic of Spandex is its
stretchability. It can be stretched to a great length and
then also recovers its near to original shape. It can, in fact,
be stretched to almost 500% of its length. It is lightweight,
soft, smooth, supple and more durable and has higher
retroactive ability than rubber. As such, when Spandex
is used for making any clothing, it gives the best fit and
comfort and also prevents bagging and sagging of the
garment. It is also heat-settable which means that it fa-
cilitates transforming puckered fabrics into flat fabrics,
or flat fabrics into permanent rounded shapes. Spandex
fibers or fabrics can be easily dyed and they also resist
damage by body oils, perspiration, lotions or detergents.
These fabrics are also abrasion resistant. When Spandex
is sewn, the needle causes little or no damage from “nee-
dle cutting” compared to the older types of elastic materi-
als. The Spandex fiber diameters range from 10 denier to
2500 denier and can be found in both, clear and opaque
lusters.
Lycra T-400 is a new elastic fibre based on bicompo-
nent technology, which offers improved comfort, handle,
wrinkle-resistance and easy-care properties in knitted
and woven fabrics. Lycra T-400 is normally dyed under HT
conditions at 130 degree centigrade. Good tone-in-tone
dyeing of the single components can be achieved at this
temperature, without significant loss of stretch recovery
properties. DyStar recommends for Lycra T-400.
y Strength: 0.55-1.0 gpd
y Extension at Break: 520-610 %
y Specific Gravity: 1.20-1.25
y Set % at 600% stretch: 70%
y Moisture Regain: 0.8-1.2
h It is a thermoplastic fibres which sticks at 170 deg C
and melts at 230 deg C
h It has an excellent resistance to sunlight
h It is resistant to insects and microorganisms.
h It is resistant to common solvents such as dry cleaning
solvents and saturated hydrocarbons.
Chemical Properties
It has good resistance to cold dilute Acids, Hot con-
centrated acids slightly yellow it.
It has a good resistance to weak and cold alkalies. It has
good resistance to cosmetic oils and lotions. Chlorites
and hypochlorites attack the fibre. When heated the fi-
bres fuse and do not shrink from the flame. They burn
and produce soft fluffy black ash. Spandex is a man-made
elastic fibre invented and produced only by DuPont®.It’s
remarkable properties of stretch and recovery enhance
all fabrics and garments in which it is used, adding easy
comfort and freedom of movement and improving fit and
shape retention. Swimwear and lingerie owe their figure-
flattering fit to Spandex. All types of hosiery are softer,
smoother-fitting and more durable thanks to Spandex.
In short, a little bit of Spandex makes all types of ap-
parel fit better, feel better and look better. Spandex be-
longs to the generic elastane classification of man-made
fibres(known as spandex in the US and Canada) and is de-
scribed in technical terms as a segmented polyurethane
it is composed of “soft”, or flexible, segments bonded to-
gether with “hard”, or rigid, segments. This gives the fibre
it’s built-in, lasting elasticity. Spandex can be stretched
four to seven times its initial length, yet springs back to it’s
original length once tension is released.
While Spandex appears to be a single continuous thread,
it is in reality a bundle of tiny filaments.
BLENDING
Spandex is never used alone; it is always combined with
another fiber (or fibers), natural or man-made. Fabrics en-
hanced with Spandex retain the appearance of the major-
ity fibre.
The type of fabric and it’s end use determine the amount
and type of Spandex required to ensure optimum perfor-
mance and aesthetics. As little as 2 percent Spandex is
enough to improve a fabric’s movement, drape and shape
retention, while fabrics for high-performance garments
such as swimwear and active sportwear may contain as
much as 20-30 percent Spandex. Weaving or knitting tech-
niques, together with fabric type and end use, determine
whether Spandex is used in a bare or covered yarn form.
The material used in the making of the Cotton-Lycra
line of Snob underwear consist of 90% Cotton and 10%
Spandex(Lycra)
There are many advantages of nylon/Lycra warp knitted
fabrics,( Lycra 10-20% ) such as good tenacity and abra-
sion resistance due to the nylon, and excellent elastic re-
covery property due to the Lycra. The fabrics also have
a fine moisture releasing, soft hand-feeling. Moreover,
clothings, which are sewed with this kind of fabrics give
people a feeling of pressure-free comfort, and help to
build a perfect figure. The fabric selected is the nylon and
Lycra blend. The dyestuff used for dyeing is acid dyestuff
and the dyeing method is one-bath-two-section.
USES OF SPANDEX FIBRE
Spandex is used in a variety of different clothing types.

Since it is lightweight and does not restrict movement, it
is most often used in athletic wear. This includes such gar-
ments as swimsuits, bicycle pants, and exercise wear. The
form-fitting properties of spandex makes it a good for use
in under-garments. Hence, it is used in waist bands, sup-
port hose, bras, and briefs. Spandex is a synthetic fiber
that has an exceptional characteristic of elasticity due to
which it is also known as elastane. It is lightweight, soft,
strong and very stretchable. In fact, spandex fiber was de-
veloped as an alternative to rubber but has a better qual-
ity than it. The name Lycra has also come to be a synony-
mous of spandex. However, Lycra is the trademark brand
but it has become so popular that all the varieties of span-
dex are popularly referred to as Lycra. Due to its dura-
bility and stretchability, spandex is mostly used to make
sports wear and work wear, specially for factory workers.
It wears like a second skin and for risk involved jobs like
that of machine operators, Lycra clothing is like a boon.
Spandex Fiber is mainly used to make such garments that
require great comfort and fit. As such, they find applica-
tions in manufacturing of hosiery, swimsuits, aerobic or
exercise wear, netball body suits ,ski pants, disco jeans ,
skinny jeans , belts, underwear,zentai, golf jackets, dispos-
able diaper, gloves ,slacks , hosiery, leggings,socks,diapers
, waist bands, bra straps and bra side panels etc. They
are even great for making shaped garments like bra cups.
Spandex fabrics are also used to make compression gar-
ments, such as surgical hose, support hose, bicycle pants,
foundation garments,dance belts worn by male ballet
dancers and others ,wrestling singlet ,rowing unisuit ,
motion capture suits shaped garments such as bra cups
etc. Home furnishings, such as micro bead pillows.
In clothing it usually appears as a small percentage of
total material. In North America it is rare in men’s cloth-
ing, but prevalent in women’s. It is used more often in
women’s as their clothes are usually more form-fitting. It
is usually mixed with a greater percentage of one other
textile such as cotton or polyester. This reduces the re-
flection of light to hardly noticeable levels.
DR. N.N.MAHAPATRA
BUSINESS HEAD (DYES)
SHREE PUSHKAR CHEMICALS & FERTILISERS LTD.
SUSTAINABLE FIBER
Exclusive sales & service agent
for India
Manufactured by : Tomsic S.r.l, Italy. Webpage : www.tomsic.eu E-mail : tomsic@tomsic.it
"YOGIDHARA", 2 Nandanvan Society, Indubhai Patel Road, Alkapuri, Vadodara 390 007. Gujarat. India
Phone : + 91 265 2312730 Webpage : www.thymas.com
Capacitive measurement
Optical measurement of Hairiness
Standard WINDOWS 10 Desktop
Email : thymasltd@gmail.com, tepl26@yahoo.com
Measurement method : Constant rate of ellongation (CRE)
Automatic 24 position package changer
Standard WINDOWS 10 Desktop
for Spun Yarn, Roving, Sliver
EVENNESS TESTER
AUTOMATIC SINGLE YARN
TENSILE STRENGTH TESTER
for Cotton/Blended Yarn,
Wool, POY, Nylon, FDY
VISIT US
at ITMA
Barcelona, Spain
20-26th June 2019
Hall No. H-6
Stand : A 206
Advt.

ENERGY EFFICIENCY OPPORTUNITIES IN WOVEN
FABRIC MANUFACTURING IN LUDHIANA
Cotton and woolen textiles comprise the most impor-
tant part of textile industry of Ludhiana. Even though the
place is world famous for its knitted products, the city
has a thriving power loom industry with more than 200
power loom units of small to large sizes functioning in the
cluster. In these units, handlooms, power looms and au-
tomatic machines are used simultaneously and produc-
ing various products ranging from high value pashmina
shawls to low cost acrylic or polyester shawls, blankets,
woven fabric for domestic as well as export purpose. The
industry is also making silk stoles of exquisite quality, ma-
jority of which are exported all over the world. This sector
has always been viewed as a major source of employment
generation and rapid expansion of population has also
helped in the growth of this sector as clothing continues
to be a most basic requirement. The industry which was
initially dependent on handlooms has gradually shifted
towards power looms and specialized high speed looms
thus increasing the energy requirement of the industry
where initially it was all labour intensive work without any
need of electricity.
Technology Status
There are many categories of textile units in the Ludhi-
ana cluster, engaged in different processes related to the
manufacture of knitwear products. The most energy–in-
tensive units are those engaged in dyeing, processing and
spinning. The printing units are relatively less energy in-
tensive. Among all the units, energy cost forms the largest
component of production expenses. The textile units in
the Ludhiana cluster consume energy mainly in the forms
of electricity for equipment and machineries as well as
lighting, cooling and temperature control systems etc.
Number of utilities involved in an industry depends upon
the production capacity and process requirement of the
industry. The saving potential in terms of energy depends
on the resource utilization pattern of the industry. Numer-
ous energy audits in textile units have displayed that 30
per cent of the savings in terms of rupees can be achieved
in the plant by implementing the best practices in the pro-
cess itself. Therefore together with the utilities, process
should also be an area of concern.
Installation of meters for monitoring and energy
savings
One of the best ways to track or monitor the various pa-
rameters involved within the utilities and processes is by
installing meters at the generation and end usage points.
This helps track the total generation and consumption of
electricity at the process and equipment side. This also
helps in operating the equipments at their best operating
points and in preparing benchmarks. Installation of me-
ters at key locations inside an industry enables the factory
to closely track resources and energy consumption for
specific purposes. This helps factory to focus on improv-
ing efficiency in resource intensive processes and to do
proper costing of the products.
Installing and operating accurate meters or software are
the fundamental steps to benchmark performance and
to enhance efficiency. It allows plants to identify and re-
spond to leaks, detects unusual points in resource use
and provides feedback on the effectiveness of measures
that the industry undertakes to improve their processes.
Meters and measurement software reinforce the benefits
of efficiency increasing measures and encourage continu-
ous improvement. Diesel generator is also an alternate
source of electricity generation at the work station site.
Special care needs to be given to this, as generation of
electricity from DG sets is a costly affair. The main param-
eters which need to be taken care of are fuel consump-
tion on hourly basis, frequency, kWh, ampere, voltage and
measurement of the flue gas temperature.
Best Practices for saving energy in terms of
electricity
Given the associated utilities, some improve-
ments in industries require relatively large investments
in equipment modernization. But there are certain ini-
tiatives which provide a particularly easy starting point
for increasing manufacturing efficiency as compared to
process optimization methods. Each opportunity identi-
fied should be evaluated in terms of initial investment re-
quired for improvement or replacements in the utilities,
payback period and resources savings. Although individu-
al leaks may not seem important in the overall consump-
tion scenario, they can be responsible for a surprisingly
significant loss of resources over the course of a year.
Some best practices that can be identified and utilized for
probable energy savings are
h Minimize blower inlet and outlet obstructions
h Clean screens and filters regularly.
h Minimize blower speed.
h Use low- slip or no- slip belts.
h Check belt tension regularly.
h Eliminate variable pitch pulleys.
FABRIC FOCUS

h Use variable speed drives for large variable blower
loads.
h Use energy- efficient motors for continuous or near-
continuous operation.
h Eliminate ductwork leaks.
h Turn blowers off when not needed.
h Power factor improvement.
h Installation of separate transformers for lighting sys-
tem.
h Balancing of phase-wise voltages, currents at motor/
machine end terminals.
In industries it is observed that the power factor is main-
tained near to unity only at the main incomer side. The
best way to improve power factor is by installing a cor-
rect capacity bank of capacitor at the motor or machine
end terminal side so that exceed current can reduce at
the motor end and ultimately reduce the overall power
consumption.
Voltages between all three phases should be
equal at the motor end terminal. Any unbalance in the
phase voltage may lead to increase in the winding tem-
perature of the phase and thus increase the current
drawn at the terminal end. Though implementation of
this best practice may provide small saving opportunities,
however in terms of maintaining the operating efficiency
and service life of the motor, steps to balance the voltage
in all phases should be undertaken. As a general rule, 1 %
imbalance in voltage causes 7 % imbalance in current and
approximately 5 % increase in motor losses.
For proper work execution, adequate lighting
should be available so that there is proper visibility which
permits healthy observation of the product. In general
practice in most of the industries, tube lights with fixtures
are used at work stations and high wattage lamps are
used for peripheral lightings. The higher lux level can be
reduced to a suitable level by removing a fitting. Quality
of light being received at the work station depends upon
the reflection factor in the reflector used, it is better to
replace complete fitting including fixtures in order to get
proper and required lux level at the work place.
Some tips for energy efficiency improvements in
lighting system are
y Reduce excessive illumination levels to standard levels
using decamping etc.
y Aggressively control lighting with clock timers, delay
timers, photocells and occupancy sensors.
y Install efficient alternatives to incandescent lighting,
mercury vapour lighting etc. such as low pressure so-
dium, high pressure sodium, metal halide, fluorescents
and mercury vapour and incandescent.
y Select ballasts and lamps carefully with high power fac-
tor and long term efficiency in mind.
y Upgrade obsolete fluorescent systems to compact flu-
orescents and electronic ballasts.
• Consider downsizing the fixtures in order to prevent ex-
cessive usage.
• Consider painting the walls with a lighter colour.
• Use task lighting and reduce background illumination.
• Re-evaluate exterior lighting strategy, type and control.
• Change exit signs from incandescent to LED.
Apart from this, motor performance tests should be con-
ducted wherever applicable so that motors operate at
maximum efficiency without overloading or under load-
ing. The industries should use energy efficient motors
where economical and their alignment should be checked
periodically. There should be proper ventilation and prop-
er efficiency restoration must be there after rewinding.
Many units can take significant steps towards reducing
wastes and costs by implementing small changes in good
housekeeping which require little investment beyond im-
proved management and attention to detail. Poor storage
practices often lead to material being damaged or dirty
resulting in making the industry give a discount on the
same. It is a good practice to demarcate a special stor-
age area in the work place, raise the floor level of storage
areas and reduce leakages or breakage. Unclean work
sites can lead to rework through contamination of textile
products. Regular cleaning of workspace should be the
responsibility of the staff at each work station. Adopt-
ing these quick opportunities help industries to develop
a clean production mentality that can lead to substantial
improvements and cost efficiencies.
FABRIC FOCUS
PRERNA KAPILA | B.S. DHILLON
KRISHI VIGYAN KENDRA, AMRITSAR
Just listen to the still voice within. This is the mind to trust.
This is god consciousness speaking, not the ego that is seeking
recognition. —Angela Walker
“
“

TECHNICAL ARTICLE
“ECOFRIENDLY PROCESSING OF COTTON”
Textile industry is the largest one next to agricultural in
the country where most of the people are employed. Wet
processing of cotton required high quantity of water and
energy for desizing, scoring and bleaching process. Con-
ventionally these processes are carried by using harsh
chemical which is give water pollution. In order to control
water pollution enzyme can be used of processing of cot-
ton. At a same time enzyme required low temperature
which is give energy conservation. This study is focused
on comparative analysis between conventional desizing
with enzyme desizing, alkaline scouring with bio scour-
ing, conventional bleaching with bio bleaching and con-
ventional combine scouring bleaching with bio combine
scouring-bleaching. So advantages of bioprocessing can
be described in terms of ecology as well as economy.
Keywords:Enzyme, Conventional processing, Bio
scouring, Bio bleaching.
Introduction
Cotton is the most important cellulose fibre in textile. But
natural cotton fibre contains some impurities. Cotton fi-
bre is highly hydroscopic also slightly coloured .In further
processing cotton should absorb water to get satisfactory
result. At a same time colour of cotton should be white
before dyeing to achieve final required colour. Hence
in order to get absorbency and whiteness scouring and
bleaching process become important one. Traditionally
scouring of cotton was carried out by using caustic soda
and sodium carbonate. Both this chemical having high pH
and increase load on ETP and because of higher concen-
tration of alkali tenacity of cotton decrease. Bleaching of
cotton also required high alkaline pH and high concentra-
tion of H2
O2
reduces tenacity of cotton. Hence in order to
save water this two process carried out in one bath As
this two process done in one bath load over ETP get re-
duces but effluent which is generated having higher pH
and total organic compound .
To reduce the water pollution in textile wet processing, we
have to reduce the use of such high concentrate chemi-
cal. Also such chemical are available in market which does
not affect the properties of cotton. One of the chemical
which can be used in wet processing is enzyme. Use of en-
zyme in wet processing reduces the water pollution. Also
required temperature is low as comparative to conven-
tional processes hence use of energy is also low. Enzyme
work on specific substrate it will not affect the properties
of cotton and most important thing is there is less efflu-
ent generation. If bio-scouring and bio-bleaching could be
combined into one process, large amounts of water, en-
ergy, time and auxiliary agents would be saved.
Enzyme
Enzyme is a Greek word enzymos having meaning
‘in the cell’ or from the cell’. Enzymes are the high molecular
weight protein and it is a made up of more than 250 ami-
no acid [2]. They are biocatalyst which increases the rate
of reaction. Enzymes are very specific in their action and
controlled by concentration, time, temperature and pH.
Enzymes are obtained from plants, microorganism and
animal. Enzyme converts substrate (beginning molecule)
in to product (different molecule). Enzymes are classified
as follow [3]
1. Oxidoreductases – oxidation, reduction reaction
2. Transferase – Transfer of functional group
3. Hydrolases – Hydrolysis reaction
4. Lyases – Addition to double bond
5. Isomerses – Isomerisation
6. Ligases – Formation of bond
The enzyme contains three dimensional activity centers
in a structure. The active side is a one part of enzyme
and get combine with substrate (beginning molecule)
and forms a complex to catalyze a reaction. Finally sub-
strate converted in to final product (different molecule)
as shown in fig 1[4]
Figure 1: Lock & Key analogy of enzyme
Textile is one of the growing industries that consume lots
of water energy and harsh chemical. The enzyme can be
used for various applications in textile wet processing like
desizing, Scouring, Bleaching, dyeing Bio-polishing, Per-
oxide killer, Anti shrink treatment for wool, Printing and
finishing. Also combination of two processes like desizing
and scouring, scouring and bleaching Desizing-scouring-
bleaching is possible by using enzyme [3] [5] [6]
Enzyme desizing
Conventionally desizing is done by using hydrochloric acid
or oxidizing agent. These chemicals reduce the strength
of basic fabric by attack on starch as well as cellulose.
Enzyme is the one option to avoid reduction in tensile
strength of fabric [7]. Fabric is padded through solution

TECHNICAL ARTICLE
containing 1 gpl amylase and 0.5 gpl sodium chloride at
400C. For this process required pH is acidic (5.5). Fabric is
padded by using padding mangle (100% expression) and
batched for 24 hour at ambient temperature. The Desized
fabric washed twice with hot water and once with cold
water and then dried [8]. Desizing by exhaust method is
also possible where fabric is treated with 1gp amylases
enzyme at 700C for 60 min with acidic pH (5.5) [9].
Enzyme desizing gives following advantages over conven-
tional desizing method [3]
1. Less tensile strength loss
2. No hydro cellulose formation
3. Less shrinkage problem
4. Less time required
5. No fibre damage
6. Less weight loss
7. Less water pollution
Enzyme scouring
Cotton could not absorb water during processing within
specific time (3 Sec) because of 0.4-1 % oil fat waxes in
their structure. Removal of oil fat and waxes become so
important to get satisfactory results in further processing.
Conventionally scouring of cotton is done by using sodium
hydroxide which is highly alkaline in nature. Along with
impurities it break the bonds cellulose causes reduction
in tensile strength. Use of highly alkaline chemical causes
high COD (chemical oxygen demand), BOD (biological ox-
ygen demand) and TDS in wastewater [10]. Conventional
scouring process is commonly used in industry but now-
a-day it gives bad effect on environment. Conventional
can be replaced by eco-friendly enzyme scouring process
[11]. Fabric is treated with pectinase 5 gpl enzyme at 550C
in alkaline pH (8) for 60 min. this give satisfactory results
and absorbency is depend on concentration of enzyme.
Weight loss is less than the conventional scouring which
means no strength loss in fabric [9].
Enzymatic scouring of cotton fabric can be done by us-
ing various enzymes like cellulose, lipase, pectinase etc.
Whiteness index obtained by the enzyme scouring is
8-10% more as compare to conventional scouring also no
loss in tensile strength. Enzyme scouring give less BOD,
COD, TDS as compare to conventional process. This
method can be used for cotton as well as cotton blends by
changing the enzyme [12]. Alkaline pectinase enzyme can
be combined with cellulose enzyme to get more absor-
bency. This process gives more absorbency but decrees
the tensile strength of fabric [8]. Advantages of enzyme
scouring are less energy required, less water required,
low cost of chemical, good absorbency, less strength loss,
better dyeing effect. Lower effluent load soft feel same
depth of colour. Also it can be combined with peroxide
bleaching which reduce the cost of process [11] [13] [14].
Enzyme Bleaching
Bleaching is the process in which natural colouring im-
purities are removed to get final colour in dyeing. H2
O2
is mostly used as bleaching agent in bleaching of natu-
ral, synthetic as well as blends of textile material. Mostly
pH of H2
O2
bleaching is 11.5 which is highly alkaline at a
same time temperature required is also about 90o
C [15].
H2
O2
is not completely removed from the fabric which
may give problem like uneven dyeing, hydrolysis of reac-
tive dye etc. It required several washing treatment to re-
move H2
O2
from fabric. Catalase enzymes are used to re-
move H2
O2
from the fabric which removes total H2
O2
from
fabric by complete decomposition of hydrogen peroxide.
It converts residual peroxide in to water and oxygen [10].
In order to save water and energy bleaching can be car-
ried out by using glucose oxidase enzyme which is used
as alone or can be combined with peroxidases also. H2
O2
generated from glucose oxidases get combined with per-
oxidases which give better whiteness index as compare
to conventional bleaching agent [6] Desized and scoured
fabric were bleached by using glucose oxidase enzyme.
The whiteness index is 73% more than scoured fabric.
Satisfactory degree of whiteness can be achieved by us-
ing glucose oxidase [9]. Enzymatic bleaching with par-
acetic acid gives better result than conventional process
at neutral pH and lower temperature i.e. 650
C It give high
whiteness, less strength loss and good water absorbency
compare to traditional process [16].
Enzyme combine scouring-bleaching
In a today’s competitive world energy conservation is the
important to minimize final product cost as well as en-
vironmental degradation also. In order to save energy
combination of two process and process modification
become essential. One such approach is combination of
scouring and bleaching in one process. Temperature of
process can be decrease up to remarkable level by us-
ing some activator like potassium persulphate [17]. Use
of ecofriendly chemical becomes so important because
of increasing cost of water, energy and environmental as-
pect. Combined use of α-amylase and hemicellulose/pec-
tinase in the pre-treatment of cotton gives combine de-
sizing and scouring with better results than conventional
and individual process. Glucose oxidase enzyme can be
combine with other enzyme to get satisfactory result in
bleaching [6].One bath bio scouring and bleaching of cot-
ton give better results of absorbency, reduce load ETP
and gives less degradation of cotton than alkali scouring
and bleaching [18].Combine scouring and bleaching by
using scouring enzyme and hydrogen peroxide give same
effect that of individually process [14]. Traditionally scour-
ing and bleaching process carried out at the temperature
1200
C in higher alkaline pH. It took lots of energy as well
as water in further washing process of fabric which is con-
verted in an effluent. In order to save energy and water
higher alkaline chemical should be replace by ecofriendly

chemical. Pectinase enzyme is an alternative to sodium
hydroxide in scouring which give same result at low tem-
perature. H2
O2
can be replacing by using peroxidases,
laccase /mediator or glucose oxidase. Bio-scouring and
bio-bleaching can combine in one bath. Fabric is treated
with scouring and bleaching enzyme at 650
C for 60 min.
Increase in temperature of this bath give better degree
of whiteness. This process leads to less time, less energy,
better results than conventional process [16].
Conclusion
Use of enzyme is one of the methods to replace the con-
ventional processing chemical which create water pollu-
tion. Amylase enzyme gives satisfactory results as com-
pare to acid desizing. Enzymatic scouring can be carried
out at low temperature as compare to conventional al-
kaline scouring. It reduces the water pollution that is les
COD, BOD and TDS. Also weight loss is less as compare to
conventional process. H2
O2
can be successfully replaced
by using glucose oxidase enzyme and catalase enzyme
can be used for the removal of residual H2
O2
from the
fabric. Combine scouring and bleaching of cotton by us-
ing enzyme save water and energy. This process required
less energy and less water as compare to conventional
process.
References
1. Prof. S. P. Mishra,Cotton, A Text Book of Fibre Science
and Technology”Page 71-87
2. Cited on http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2013/03/
enzyme-and-its-applications-in-textile.html
3. Ketan Verma “Enzyme and its benefits for textile pro-
cess specific load on effluent as well as improvement
in fabric” Colourage Dec 2015 38-44
4. Vaibhav Nagaje, Ashish Hulle “Enzyme in textile pro-
cessing” Colourage, December 2004,33
5. Bikash Jena, Bishnu Priya Das, A. Khandual , Sanjay
Sahu & Lingaraj Behera “ Eco friendly processing of
textile” Elsevier Material Today Proceeding 2 (2015)
1776-1791
6. Klaus Opwis, Dierk Knitte, Eckhard Schollmeyer “Use
of enzyme in pretreatment of cotton” Deutsches
Textilforschungszentrum Nord-West e.V. Adlerstr. 1,
D-47798 Krefeld, Germany
TECHNICAL ARTICLE
7. Mahesh sharma “Application of enzyme in textile pro-
cessing” Colourage, January 1993
8. Ali Hebeish , Mohamed Hashem , Nihal Shaker, Mo-
hamed Ramadan, Bahiya El-Sadek,Marwa Abdel Hady
“New development for combined bioscouring and
bleaching of cotton-based fabrics” Elsevire Carbohy-
drate Polymers 78 (2009) 961–972
9. Tzanko Tzanov, Margarita Calafellb, Georg M. Gueb-
itzc, Artur Cavaco-Pauloa, “Bio Processing of Cotton
Fabric” Journal of Enzyme and Microbial Technology
29 (2001) 357-362
10. N. N. Mahapatra “Use of enzyme in textile process-
ing” Asian Dyer, july 2010, 53
11.M. Azizul Hoque, Abu Yousuf Mohamamd Anwarul
Azim “Using Enzymes as an Aid of Better and Eco-
Friendly Scouring Processing” American Journal of En-
gineering Research, Volume-5, Issue-6, 167-182
12. Prof. S. K. Laga, Miss. Geeta K. Chunari “Bioscouring:
An overview” Colourage, April 2015,39
13. A Edvin Sunder, G nalankilli “Bio-scouring” Asin Tex-
tile Journal, January 2002
14. A. K. Patra, Gaurav Agrawal, Sumit Garg “ Enzymatic
scouring & bleaching compatibility of cotton” The In-
dian Textile Journal, April 2004/25
15. Ms. Sonia Hossain, Md. Koushic Uddin “compara-
tive analysis between conventional pretreatment and
bioprocessing” International Journal of Engineering &
Technology vol:11 no:3
16.Nina Spicka and Petra Forte Tavcer “New Combined
Bio Scouring and Bio Bleaching Process Of Cotton
Fabric ” Material and Technology 47 (2013) 4, 409-412
17.A. I. Wasif , Y. M. Indi “Combined scouring-bleaching
of cotton using potassium persulphate” Indian Journal
of Fibre and Textile Research, vol 35, December 2010,
pp353-357
18. Geeta N. sheth, Aparna A. Musale “Single bath bio-
scouring and bleaching of cellulosic yarn knitted and
woven fabric”, Colourage nov 2015
SATISH Y PATIL, YASHOVARDHAN M INDI
DKTE’S TEXTILE & ENGINEERING INSTITUTE
ICHALKARANJI
Nothing glows brighter than the heart awakened to the light of
love that lives within it.
—Guy Finley
“ “

COTTON REPORT
In a landmark development of immense significance for
the long term expansion of India’s textile industry, ship-
ments of apparels and made-up goods, accounting for 55
per cent of India’s total textiles export, have been grant-
ed refund of State and Central taxes. The Cabinet, last
month, approved the scheme to offer rebate on both the
State and Central embedded taxes for the apparel and
made-up goods such as carpets, bed-sheets, table cloths
and curtains. Compared to competing countries, export
of made-ups, especially home textiles from India, was fac-
ing huge challenges due to high import duty. The scheme
is expected to go a long way in helping exporters in over-
coming this disadvantage and increase exports.
On another front government has announced a Transport
and Marketing Assistance (TMA) scheme for providing fi-
nancial assistance for transport and marketing of agricul-
ture products to boost exports of such commodities to
certain countries in Europe and North America. Under the
TMA scheme, which aims at boosting agricultural exports,
government will reimburse a certain portion of freight
charges and provide assistance for marketing of agricul-
tural produce. These benefits, once operationalized, can
spur trading interest in related commodities, resulting in
growth and development of India’s agri-commodity mar-
ket.
Meanwhile, Indian traders signed contracts to ship
800,000 bales of cotton to China as demand surged from
the world’s biggest consumer of the fibre due to a rally in
prices in China. Cotton growers had been perturbed by
declining exports to Pakistan, 2nd largest buyer of Indian
cotton, over increased Indo-Pak tensions following the
Pulwama terror attack. But they are breathing light now
due to a spurt in demand for cotton from China, especial-
ly at a time when cotton exports to Pakistan have come to
a halt due to the tensions between the two neighbours.
India is set to regain its market share in Bangladesh,
world’s largest importer of cotton, which has been falling
since 2017, aided by the memorandum of understanding
(MoU) proposed to be signed by the Cotton Association
of India and Bangladesh Cotton Association. A similar
MoU is proposed to be signed with Bangladesh Textile
Mills Association as well. India is the world’s largest pro-
ducer of cotton and Bangladesh emerged as the largest
destination for Indian cotton due to its proximity. These
MoUs are being viewed as attempts to regain India’s share
in Bangladesh’s cotton imports, which fell to 46% in 2018
from 51% in 2017.
Prices in the cotton futures market has moved up 5 per
cent to Rs 21,060 per bale (one bale is 170 kg) on reports
of improving demand from China and domestic mills.
The cotton output for this year is expected to be lowest
in eight years due to delayed and deficient monsoon in
some of the key cotton-growing states and lower acreage
in some of the southern states, pushed cotton prices up-
wards.
MCX Cotton Derivatives at a Glance
Volatility
Mar-19 0.90%
YTD 2019 0.74%
Avg Daily Turnover (crs)
Mar-19 310
YTD 2019 233
Avg Daily Volume (bales)
Mar-19 1,45,425
YTD 2019 1,11,314
Avg Daily OI (bales)
Mar-19 4,53,486
YTD 2019 3,76,821
Delivery (bales)
Mar-19 36,100
YTD 2019 1,15,900
Stocks (bales)
As on Mar 30, 2019 2,14,700
POLICY DEVELOPMENTS, IMPROVING EXPORT PROSPECTS
AND REDUCED CROP ESTIMATES, DRIVING COTTON MARKETS IN MARCH

YARN REPORT
Cotton export shipmen dips in March
Cotton exports volume continued to slump, to 5.1 lakh
bales (170 kg each) in March as against 12.5 lakh bales
ex-ported in the same month of previous marketing year
(2017-18). In March, cotton shipment value in US$ term
declined by 37% YoY. China was the largest importer of
Indian cotton in March, followed by Bangladesh and Pa-
kistan. Vietnam was the fourth largest importer of Indian
cotton during the month.
China is showing interest in buying US cotton, as per dis-
cussions during the 12 April meeting of the Plains Cot-
ton Growers (PCG) Advisory Group. There were positive
signals regarding movement of US cotton to China in an-
ticipation of a trade deal between US and China. China
normally import high quality cotton, and are interested
in lower grades (31 and 41 color grade) at a discounted
price. A trade deal will enable these cottons to enter Chi-
na. However, cotton buyers currently import at a 25% tar-
iff, and the future buying in volumes will depend on how
quickly favorable trade deal is finalized.
Cotton yarn export rises 6% in March, China leads
Spun yarns shipment totaled 160 million kg (up 17%)
worth US$464 million (up 8%) implying an average unit
value realization of US$2.78 per kg, up US cent 1 com-
pared to previous month but down US cents 24 from a
year ago average. Meanwhile, the INR against the US$
weakened from INR64.21 to INR69.17 this march, which
augurs well for exports. China was the largest buyer of
spun yarns, topping both in terms of volume and value.
(Comparable shipment values for the same set of ports
were 147 million kg – up 8%, worth US$425 million – down
09%)
Cotton yarn export was at 130 million kg worth US$380
million (INR2,630 crore), up 6% from previous year’s level
in US$ terms. 77 countries imported cotton yarn from
India at an average price of US$2.92 a kg, up US cents
2 from previous month and down US cents 27 from last
year.
China, imported 50% more cotton yarn from India this
March. During the month, the year on year increase was
54% in US$ terms. China was followed by Bangladesh
with volume and value declining 29% over the year. Egypt
and Portugal were the other major importers of cotton
yarn, with former recording 8% increase and latter fall-
ing 19%. Eight countries did not import any cotton yarn
from India this March as they had imported yarn worth
US$0.85 million in March 2018. However, they were re-
placed by 11 other countries which imported yarn worth
US$0.52 million.
Nepal, Iran, Malaysia, Czech Republic, Thailand and Ma-
laysia were among top fastest importers of cotton yarn
in March while Algeria, Greece, Netherlands, Bahrain and
Belgium significantly reduced their imports compared to
last year.
100% man-made fibre yarns exports rose sharply by 56%
in March, comprising 5.5 million kg of polyester yarn, 3.2
million kg of viscose yarn and 2.2 million kg of acrylic yarn.
Polyester yarn exports jumped 18% in US$ term while vis-
cose yarn exports value rose 66% during the month. Acryl-
ic yarn exports more than doubled during the month.
Polyester spun yarns worth US$13 million were exported
to 55 countries at average unit price of US$2.41 a kg, up
US cents 10 compared to last month and almost flat from
last year. Belgium emerged as the largest importer of po-
ly-ester yarn, followed by Turkey and Morocco.
Viscose yarn worth US$10 million or INR70 crore was ex-
ported in March at an average price of US$3.10 per kg.
Iran was the top importer worth US$2.7 million, followed
by Turkey and Bangladesh. Belgium was the fourth larg-
est im-porter of viscose yarn during the month.
Blended spun yarns worth US$54 million were exported
Cotton export slumps, yarn inches up in March

GLOBAL TEXTILE PRICING TREND IN MARCH
Cotton
In India, spot prices were up INR1,700-3,200 per can-
dy across varieties in March, with benchmark Gujarat
Shankar-6 rising INR2,300 to INR44,000 per candy. The
Cotton Corporation of India commenced the sale of cot-
ton procured by it in the current marketing season under
the government’s Minimum Support Price procurement
programme. It sold around 10,000 bales at a price of INR
47,000 per candy through e-auctions in Maharashtra and
Telangana. It believes that there is no need to intervene
now and since farmers are receiving good prices from
traders. Since early March, cotton prices have strength-
ened by INR3,000 a candy. Nearly 70% of cotton has ar-
rived in the market until now, and with the peak period
coming to a close, the season is likely to stretch for an-
other couple of months. According to CCI, about 235 lakh
bales cotton has arrived in the market until mid-March 15
and it has procured around 11.60 lakh bales, nearly four
times the volume collected in the same period previous
year. Meanwhile, textile and apparel industry fear that
rising cotton prices will hit margins due to their inability
to pass on the high production cost on to buyers due to
seasonal demand weakness.
Cotton Futures gained despite selling pressure that had
developed prior to the release of the USDA reports. Al-
though there was a correction and selling seemed to be
mostly long liquidation from speculators and some indus-
try. The selling came despite a strong weekly export sales
report released by USDA. The planting intentions report
may not show much as the bulk of the bad weather in
planting areas has been taken into account earlier. Many
participants were awaiting the resolution of the US-China
trade dispute, and the US government indicated that a
deal will be more difficult to achieve by month-end. Now
the market anticipates that a deal is done in April. Both
parties were negotiating the final points. In US, weather
continues to feature a lot of rain in the south, and field-
work and initial planting in far southern areas is mostly
delayed. With drier weather forecast for next week, there
were hopes that at least some initial fieldwork is com-
pleted.
Global spot benchmark, the Cotlook A index, gained US
cents 4.45 to end March at US cents 85.30 per pound,
while in Pakistan the KCA spot rate flat through the month
at PakRs8,760 per maund ex-Karachi.
Cotton Yarn
Cotton yarn markets in China moved flat to up, and deals
were mainly concluded for 32s and 40s combed yarn.
Producers offered for 40s and 20s combed were down
on the month while offers for 21s and 32s were slightly
reduced to push out volumes. However, most produc-
in March, up 9% YoY. During the month, 10.9 million kg
of PC yarns was exported worth US$28 million while 5.7
million kg of PV yarns were exported worth US$28 million.
Egypt, Bangladesh and USA, were the largest importers of
PC yarn from India while Turkey was the single largest im-
porter of PV yarns from India followed distantly by Brazil.
Shipment of all kinds of filament yarns totaled 68 million
kg (down 6%. YoY), valued at US$112 million (down 11%.
YoY)
YARN REPORT

ers offered discounts during discussion of firm deals. In
Jiangsu, 32s cotton yarn prices averaged US$3.43 a kg
while 40s were at US$3.58 a kg, both up US cents 3 on the
month. In India, rising cotton prices pushed yarn prices
up while stronger currency made export a bit difficult. 30s
carded cotton yarn for knitting were at US$3.25 a kg, up
US cents 14 while export offers were up US cents 11 at
US$3.00 a kg.
Polyester chain pricing
Polyester filament yarn prices were stable in China, but
some producers cut discounts as buying activities im-
proved later in the week, especially for POYs. In Shengze,
producers maintained stable prices while selling indica-
tions were slightly lower than offers for FDYs, DTYs and
POYs. In Zhejiang, high crude oil and firmer PTA futures,
PFY offers were stable, but some discounts taken back,
as downstream mills increased their purchasing volumes.
In Pakistan, offers for both local and imported goods
were raised as the currency weakened against the US$.
Demand was still bearish at the moment but is expected
to look up in coming weeks. Thus, outlook appear to be
better now and cost levels receding slowly. In India, POYs
offers remained unchanged this week given the gentle
trading atmosphere and most deals focused on multi-end
specs. Downstream mills maintained stable run rates, but
fabric sales were modest.
Polyester staple fibre prices remained unchanged across
China, India and Pakistan this week. In China, polyester
fibre markets were on a weak note, dragged by soften-
ing feedstock. Some suppliers cut down high-end offers
or provided more discounts. Downstream spinning mills
were inactive to purchase. Export offers also remained
unchanged as lukewarm demand was neutralised by low
inventory. Trades were, however, limited as buying ap-
petite was lukewarm near the end of March, and there
was uncertainty over the impact of VAT reduction from 1
April. In Pakistan, polyester fibre market showed moder-
ate performance and producers maintained stable opera-
tion amid ample supply. In India, polyester fibre makers
did not change their offers in the last week of the month,
as cost support was still strong amid sluggish demand.
Going ahead, given the range-bound feedstock, ample
supply and flat demand, polyester fibre markets are ex-
pected to be remain in narrow fluctuation.
In China, offers for 1.4D direct-melt PSF averaged US$1.30-
1.32 a kg almost flat from February. In Pakistan, PSF pro-
ducers’ offers were unchanged for March at US$1.37-1.39
a kg. In India, PSF offers for were up US cents 4 at US$1.50
a kg.
NITIN MADKAIKAR
Textile Beacon
YARN REPORT
In the textile manufacturing processes, textile chemicals
play an important role at each processing stage, starting
from pre-treatment to finishing of textiles. Textile chemi-
cals improve and optimize the textile manufacturing pro-
cesses for final specific function, texture, and appearance.
Rising Demand for Home Furnishings and High Number
of Home Textile Manufacturers in Asia Pacific
Textile chemicals are significantly used in home furnish-
ings in the building & construction industry. Rise in ex-
penditure on home furnishings is anticipated to propel
the textile chemicals market during the forecast period.
Demand for home furnishings is rising in Asia Pacific ow-
ing to a rapidly increasing middle class and a booming
housing market. Moreover, fashion sensitivity toward
household furnishing has improved in countries in the re-
gion. Home fashion has emerged as a separate segment
in the consumer goods sector since consumer awareness
about high quality living has increased. Therefore, in or-
der to cater to a rise in demand, the number of retail-
ers selling home textiles is also increasing. Major players
such as IKEA and H&M are also focusing on the expansion
of their businesses in Asia Pacific. Thus, these trends are
expected to boost demand for home textiles, which, in
turn, is anticipated to drive the textile chemicals market
during the next few years.
Rising Demand for Technical Textiles
Furthermore, demand for technical textiles is also ris-
ing. Technical textiles are high-performance textiles
used due to their superior properties and functionality
TEXTILE CHEMICALS MARKET: SNAPSHOT

as compared to conventional textiles. They can be uti-
lized in several end-user industries such as automotive,
environmental protection, sports equipment and sports-
wear, construction, packaging, health care, agriculture,
and clothing. Rise in demand for technical textiles can be
ascribed to favorable government policies and initiatives
boosting infrastructure spending, chemical manufac-
turing, etc. Hence, rise in demand for technical textile is
expected to boost the textile chemicals market as these
chemicals impart high strength and versatility to technical
textiles, making them ideal for application in their respec-
tive end-user industries.
Stringent Environmental Regulations Likely to Ham-
per Textile Chemicals Market
Textile chemicals contain several substances that may
pose risks to the environment and human health. Both
people and the environment are exposed to these chemi-
cals in and around cotton plantations and textile facto-
ries. The European Union implemented the Integrated
Pollution Prevention and Control (IPPC) directive from Jan-
uary 2008, along with Emissions Trading System (ETS) and
regulation on registration, evaluation, authorization, and
restriction of chemicals. This has significantly reduced the
demand for textile chemicals in Europe. Various countries
such as the Netherlands and Germany have banned some
textile chemicals that pose a threat to the environment
and human health. Thus, rise in environmental concerns
and implementation of stringent environmental regula-
tions, especially in the European Union, are anticipated to
hamper the textile chemicals market in the near future.
Moderately Consolidated Textile Chemicals Industry Ex-
panding through Frequent Acquisitions & Mergers
Key players are focusing on
mergers and acquisitions of
regional and global players
in order to gain a substan-
tial share of the global and
regional textile chemicals
market. In 2015, Archroma
acquired BASF’s global tex-
tile chemical business. The
acquisition is expected to
strengthen Archroma’s po-
sition as the leading sup-
plier of chemicals and dyes
across the globe. Recently
in 2017, Archroma acquired
75% share of Germany-
based M. Dohmen GmbH,
which is engaged in the pro-
duction of textile dyes and
chemicals for the automo-
tive, carpet, and apparel industries.
Finishing Agents Expected to be the Rapidly Expanding
Segment
The finishing agents segment is estimated to expand at
a fast pace during the forecast period due to favorable
performance characteristics of finishing agents. They can
provide a specific function or particular appearance such
as greenhouse fabrics that reflect the sun, flameproof
furniture fabrics, durable airbags for vehicles, waterproof
fabrics, and many others.
Asia Pacific Dominated the Market in 2017
Asia Pacific constituted a key share of the global textile
chemicals market in terms of consumption as the region
is a major textile manufacturer globally. China and India
accounted for more than 70% share of the textile chemi-
cals market in Asia Pacific. Vietnam, Bangladesh, and
Indonesia are also leading countries of the markets for
textile chemicals as these countries were prominent ex-
porters of the product in 2016 and 2017.
Top Three Players Account for Nearly 30% Share of the
Global Textile Chemicals Market
In the global textile chemicals market, the top three play-
ers accounted for nearly 30% share of the market in 2017.
Key players in the textile chemicals market include Coves-
tro AG, Lonsen Inc., Archroma, Huntsman Corporation,
DyStar Singapore Pte Ltd, Tata Chemicals Ltd., Fibro Chem
LLC, OMNOVA Solutions Ins., and Solvay S.A. Archroma
held major share of the textile chemicals market in 2017.
Lonsen Inc. and Huntsman Corporation also accounted
for key share in 2017.
MARKET REPORT
by Transparency Market Research

CMAI Q3 Apparel Index: At 1.86 points it grows over last
quarter, small brands fair better
CMAI’s Apparel Index for Q3 (Oct-Dec FY 2018-19) re-
veals growth rate was better than previous quarter but
still lower than expectation. In fact, Giant brands at 6.00
points report a dip in growth, compared to Q2, when Gi-
ant brands reported an impressive growth of 8.36. How-
ever, all other brand groups have shown improvement
over last quarter.
Mid and Small Brands do better
CMAl’s Q3 Apparel Index recorded a growth of 1.86
points, which is 1.36 times higher than the Index for Small
brands (turnovers of Rs 10 to 25 crores) at 1.37points.
Mid brands (turnover of Rs 25-100 crores), growth is 3.32
points, almost 1.78 times that of overall Index; at 6 points
Giant brands’ growth is 3.22 times that of overall Index.
Like all previous quarters Giant brands grew the most in
this quarter as well. However, even though Giant brand’s
rate of growth is much higher than others but it is not as
high as last quarter. At 1.86 points, overall Q3 Index is
higher than previous quarter’s (Q2 July-Sept FY2018-19)
0.18. In fact, Q3 index is close to Q1 index which was 1.87
points.
Big brands together have grown at 3.52 points, individ-
ually only Mid brands have shown some buoyancy as
Large and Giant brands grew less than previous quarter.
Much like previous quarters, the biggest brand group, Gi-
ant brands are still leading, outgrowing any recessionary
trends. However, the gap this quarter is not as huge. And
even though Small brands have done much better at 1.37
points compared to last quarter’s -1.71 points, still they
have not been able to manage even a moderate growth.
In the past two years, they have not been able to control
their business operations in a healthy manner. Overall
growth Index is being pulled down by small players.
If Sales Turnover was to be considered as the only pa-
rameter for determining Apparel Index, this quarter then
overall Index would have reflected a growth of 0.88, which
is much higher than previous quarter’s -1.80 points.
Inventory Holding grows and Sales Turnover, Invest-
ment increase
Cumulative Sales Turnover in Q3 (0.88) is an improvement
over Q2 (-0.72) but still much lesser than Q1(1.88). Around
48 per cent brands reported an increase in Sales Turno-
ver this quarter. “Sales Turnover has grown because the
season was festive and response was good. The market is
also growing and demand has grown. We are preferred
by customer because of our availability and reach. This
has helped us in increasing our sales turnover,” explains
Mayank Jain, General Manager, Monte Carlo.
Almost 26 per cent brands reported a loss in Sales Turn-
over. Incidentally, all groups including Large and Giant
brands, this time reported sales losses. Interestingly, the
maximum drop in sales was reported by Giant brands. As
Paresh Dedhia, Owner of Dare Jeans says, “Decrease in
Sales Turnover was due to a slowdown in the market after
Diwali. Demand was low, and it affected sales.”
Sell Through on the other hand recorded an Index growth
of .96 this quarter, showing stress on fresh good sales.
The figure is lower than Q2’s 1.14, this despite the fact
that EOSS falls in Q2. Maximum growth in Sell Through
was reported by Giant brands at 1.7, much lower than 3.2
points in the previous quarter followed by 1.3 points for
Mid brands. Large brands however, clocked in a negative
value of -0.6, indicating a drop in Sell Through, this also
explains their lesser Index growth compared to Mid and
Giant brand’s. “Decrease in Sell Through is more related
to online channels. Sales offline has gone down and this
has impacted our sell through,” says Radesh Kagzi, Presi-
dent, 109°F. And Manu Chawla, Proprietor, Taiga Kids ex-
plains, “Sell Through increased as cost realization is less.
We were not able to make great profits. Raw materials
CMAI Q3 Apparel Index: At 1.86 points it grows over last
quarter, small brands fair better
MARKET REPORT

have become costlier but we have kept our prices con-
stant. Hence, sell through has increased.”
Inventory Holding was 1.6 points which is lower than
2.1 points in Q2. Almost 58 per cent respondents across
brands said their Inventory Holding moved north this
quarter, indeed a big number and they were responsible
for pulling down overall apparel index value. Increase in
Inventory Holding impacts overall index negatively. High-
er Inventory Holding indicates more stocks in warehous-
es or shop shelves. Maximum increase in Inventory Hold-
ing was among Large brands while Giant brands showed
no change in Inventory Holding. “Inventory holding has
not increased as with our replenishment model, we were
able to increase production so inventory holding moved
on,” points out Mohmaya, CEO, Celio. Chawla goes on to
say, “Goods are manufactured based on orders, hence,
we had no excess material. The team takes good care in
maintaining it.”
While 33 per cent (same as previous quarter) reported an
increase of 1-20 per cent, 21 per cent reported an increase
of 21-40 per cent, 4 per cent said their Inventory Holding
went up 41 per cent or more. “We are cutting down lead
time for deliveries; smaller run in manufacturing. This has
helped us decrease inventory holding,” opines Lubeina,
Partner, Mustang.
Overall nearly 81 per cent respondents reported a rise in
Investments which is lower than 86 per cent in previous
quarter. High investments in last two quarters indicate
most brands had to invest to manage albeit small growth
which means growth is not coming easily. As Paresh De-
dhia, Owner of Dare Jeans outlines, “There is a stretch on
payments and cash flow is less in the market. Hence, pay-
ments are pending and extra money is poured in to bal-
ance it.”
Mixed outlook for next quarter
Around 52 per cent brands say the outlook for next quar-
ter is ‘Average’, while 40 per cent believe it will be ‘Good’.
Only 4 per cent feel the quarter will be ‘Excellent’. How-
ever, another 4 per cent believe it will be ‘Below Aver-
age’. Hence the outlook recorded in quarter is ‘Average
to Good’.
Generally, in Q4 of the fiscal, there is heavy EOSS in Janu-
ary and a good marriage season between January to
March. But this quarter also marks the end of financial
year FY 2018-19, forcing industry to catch up with the pro-
jections and targets.
CMAl’s Apparel Index
CMAl’s Apparel Index aims to set a benchmark for the en-
tire domestic apparel industry and helps brands in taking
informed business decisions. For investors, industry play-
ers, stakeholders and policymakers the index is a useful
tool offering concrete and credible information, and is
an excellent source for assessing the performance of the
industry. The Index is analysed on assessing the perfor-
mance on four parameters: Sales Turnover, Sell Through
(percentage of fresh stocks sold), number of days of In-
ventory Holding and Investments (signifying future confi-
dence) in brand development and brand building.
The Apparel Index research is conducted by DFU Publica-
tions.
MARKET REPORT
Ietnam’s garment sector eyes $60 bn
from exports by 2025.
Vietnam’s textile and garment industry is optimistic about
earning $60 billion from exports by 2025, thanks to free
trade agreements (FTAs) and a focus on environment-
friendly manufacturing, The sector earned $36 billion in
exports last year, up 16 per cent year-on-year, making the
country one of the world’s three biggest exporters of tex-
tiles and apparel. According to Vu Duc Giang, chairman of
the Vietnam Textile and Apparel Association (VITAS), the
association this year has set
an export target of $40 billion, up 11 per cent year on
year. Speaking at the 2019 Global Textile and Apparel
Supply Chain Conference held recently in Ho Chi Minh
City, Giang said the industry is expected to enjoy a trade
surplus of $20 billion and employ 2.85 million workers.
Many enterprises have already received orders for the
first six months of 2019 and even for the entire year, Vi-
etnamese media reports quoted Giang as saying. The in-
dustry is also expecting more orders to shift from China to
Vietnam due to the ongoing US-China trade war. Vietnam
is signatory to 16 FTAs. Ten out of 12 signed agreements
have been enforced, including the ASEAN Trade in Goods
Agreement, the ASEAN-China FTA and the ASEAN-Korea
FTA, while the two remaining, the CPTPP and the ASEAN-
Hong Kong FTA, have not yet come into force. The FTAs
that Vietnam has signed all have environmental barriers
with higher green standards, which require enterprises to
improve not only product quality but also production pro-
cesses. If enterprises fail to do this, they will face a risk of
having orders stopped or rejected, especially orders from
major international garment brands. VITAS set up an en-
vironment
committee three years ago and has participated in an ac-
tion programme for the Green the Textile and Apparel In-
dustry group. In addition, last year VITAS and the World
Wide Fund (WWF) for Nature launched a project on green
textile industry. The project aims to encourage players in
the domestic textile sector to promote better river basin
governance, water quality improvement and sustainable
energy use.
NEWS

SURAT REPORT
Don’t stock high-priced yarn : A message spread by
weavers
The weavers of the city are spreading messages in their
group not to stock costly yarn. The spinners has increased
the prices of POY, FDY and texurised yarn upto Rs 10/Kg.
in last fortnight. There is no noteable demand of yarn in
the market since a month. Only to clear their inventories,
the yarn spinners are rising the prices by creating a price
cartel. The weavers are advised not to stock high-priced
yarn to omit huge losses.
During April, the spinners had increased yarn prices by
almost Rs 10 per kilogram in FDY and in other categories,
giving a tough time to the power loom weavers. In their
messages, they allege that the yarn spinners have formed
a cartel and are increasing yarn prices. They alleged that
front and second line spinners have gone on a spree of
increasing yarn prices, which is main raw material for the
power loom weavers. The increasing cost of yarn is bring-
ing down net profit margins.
The payment cycle is not clear and it had become difficult
for small weaver to purchase yarn, the prices of which are
up by 10 to 15 per cent in the past few days. The GST on
yarn has been reduced from 18 per cent to 12 per cent.
Instead of passing on the benefit of rate reduction to the
weavers, the spinners are increasing yarn prices. The yarn
spinners are arbitrarily increasing the prices and small
unit owner can not purchase yarn at such exorbitant pric-
es. They are requesting weavers to purchase yarn as per
their equirement.
Production loss & Short Supply : Grey fabrics prices
soar up to Rs 4/mtr
The prices of synthetic raw grey fabrics has increased in
the local market during last month period. Due to less
production, the supply of fabrics are short and this has
lead to hike in prices upto Rs 4/mtrs.
The production of grey fabrics in the power loom units
are down by 30 to 40 per cent, because of worker short-
age. As thousands of migrant workers head home for fes-
tival of Holi, the shortage of workers in textile industry
becomes a major worry. The industry sourses said, more
than two lakh workers have gone on leave for Holi and
most of them return only after voting. Due to short sup-
ply, the prices of grey fabrics has increased upto 20% in
the local markets. The rate of 60 gm shiffon, dani, renial,
60 gm plain fabrics are raised by Rs 3.5 to 4 per meter.
The traders are not able to stock grey, as they are not
receving good prices for their end finished fabrics. They
have their clientele accros the country, but buyers are not
ready to buy finished fabrics at high rates. If the price of
raw grey fabrics is increased, the price of end product will
also witness an increase, but buyers are not ready to lis-
ten their logic. They want products at less prices and they
are suffering.
FOGWA opposes 18% interest on accumulated ITC
The Federation of Gujarat Weavers’ Welfare Association
(FOGWA) has strongly opposed the demand of 18% inter-
est on accumulated ITC by GST department. If govern-
ment will not withdraw this circular, the Association will
challenge interest demand in Gujarat high court.
More than 40 thousands Power loom weavers of the city
are demanding accumulated ITC to the tune of Rs600
crore since long. After several representation when GST
department has not resolve the issue, the weavers had
filed a PIL in high court for claiming ITC refund. Recently,
the department has issued a circular for demand of 18%
interest on accumulated ITC. The weavers Association are
up in arms against this circular.
The weaving societies had organized series of meetings to
spread awareness on anti-industry decision taken by the
GST department. The Power Loom owners arguing that
this circular is indicating that a weaver has to give 18% in-
terest on their own accumulated ITC. If you want five per
cent ITC credit then you are bound to pay 18% tax.
The demand of 18% interest on ITC is illogical. The GST
department implemented 18% interest on ITC so that
power loom weavers willingly give up the credit and that
the government won’t have to deposit the huge amount
into the accounts of the unit owners.
New Dye Sublimation Textile Printers launched by
Orange Group
Surat based digital textile printing brand Orange group
has launched New Dye Sublimation Textile Printers. The
company has launched new MS JP1 and MS JP2 series
New Dye Sublimation Printers in textile machinery exhibi-
tion GARFEB-2019 recently organised in the city. Orange
group MD Mr. Ayush Rathi said, the company is leading
in digital textile printing sector and has sold more than
125 MS JP7 digital textile printing machines in india. The
group has it’s operations in Surat, Delhi and Mumbai and
with trained engineers and software support specialist, it
is providing best after sales services. In the year 2019, the
group has launched it’s own brand COLORIX with High-
speed Sublimation printer SUB PRO-1. The need of digital
textile machines are increasing and now the group has
focused on Sublimation printing segment.

LIFE AFTERLIFE, AN ANATOMY OF THE GROWING
FLUSHABLE WIPE DILEMMA
Wet wipes have become an irreplaceable part of our eve-
ryday life, combining convenience with hygiene. Perfor-
mance has long been a vital prerequisite in the purchase
of wet wipes, however since they are made for a single
use, we should be asking how to correctly dispose of
them.
Unfortunately, consumers quickly face problems on this
matter. Unless the packaging explicitly states disposal in-
structions, it is difficult for users to take the right action.
Making it even more challenging for consumers is that
manufacturers are not yet obliged to list raw materials
on packaging. A recent Lenzing online survey conducted
via Research Now SSI reveals that the majority of nearly
4,000 consumers assume wet wipes are made of cellu-
lose materials. However, according to a recent Smithers
Pira report, almost half of the raw materials in wipes are
plastic-based.
As a result of this misunderstanding, consumers often
flush of these “paper-like” wipes down the toilet. When
non-flushable wipes bind with fat, food and other waste,
they clog sewage and water treatment systems. For in-
stance, in London, a fatberg composed of waste - includ-
ing wet wipes and hygiene products - weighing as heavy
as 11 double-decker buses was found in a section of
London’s sewage network in September 2017. This shock-
ing news aroused the debate of how can manufacturers
ensure correct disposal of their waste and also how can
consumers safeguard themselves?
Product labeling and industry-wide education pro-
grams are essential
With the ambition to reduce marine litter, the European
Commission focuses on single-use plastics. The proposal
includes clear and standardized labeling schemes which
shall enable consumers to dispose of wipes in an appro-
priate way.
In addition, nonwoven industry bodies INDA and EDANA
have designed guidelines for assessing the flushability of
disposable nonwoven wipes. This guidance requires non-
flushable wipes to be prominently labeled with a “Do Not
Flush” symbol on the packaging. Consumers need to be
aware of the symbol both at the point of purchase and
each time they remove a wipe from its dispenser pack-
age.
According to EDANA, pilot programs have demonstrated
that focused consumer awareness campaigns can reduce
the improper flushing of baby wipes by 50%. Awareness
campaigns, however, should not be limited to the con-
sumer. It is essential that the nonwovens industry up to
brands and retailers acknowledges the severe impact of
fiber materials on the end-of-life properties of wipes and
their disposal options respectively. Product innovation,
technology advancement, transparency and open dia-
logue are key to promote a more sustainable consumer
lifestyle and industry ecosystem.
TECHNICAL TEXTILE
JÜRGEN EIZINGER
Vice President
Global Business Management Nonwovens
Lenzing AG
Without tradition, art is a flock of sheep without a shepherd.
Without innovation, it is a corpse.
-Winston Churchill
“ “

EVENT UPDATE
“ITAMMA’S LEGACY OF 75 YEARS CONTINUE WITH
THE NEXT GENERATION ”
Celebrated with a historical milestone event on 17th January’2019 at ITC Grand Maratha, Mumbai.
The Indian Textile Accessories and Machinery Manufactur-
ers’ Association (ITAMMA) proudly declared its milestone
of successfully completing 75 years of providing service
to the Indian Textile Industry in one of its historic event
on the 31 of January, 2018. This milestone was celebrated
by paying a tribute to Mr. B. K Mehta who was one of the
most hardworking and inspiring Past-Presidents of the
Association. Mr. B. K. Mehta’s contribution was commem-
orated by releasing a special documentary film “Balbhai”
based on his life and work.
The year subsequent to the announcement made, wit-
nessed a lot of growth in the Association. The aim was
to achieve better results in the future for which several
training programs were introduced for the members of
the association. The members were essentially trained for
technological up gradation, operational excellence, and
sustainable manufacturing among others.
The Association takes pride in recognizing the work of its
founder fathers and past members such as Mr. Bhogilal
H. Patel, and others the generous devotees for providing
ITAMMA with its own premises, Mr. B.K. Mehta, founder
of “B. K. Mehta Endowment Fund,” Mr. J. G. Roy, founder
of “J. G. Roy Endowment Fund” and another noteworthy
member Ms Hansaben Mehta, President of NASEOH who
has financially strengthened the B. K. Mehta Endowment
Fund.
Mr. Bhogilal H. Patel, and other members the gener-
ous devotees who have provided ITAMMA with its own
premises. Mr. B.K. Mehta, a Visionary, Trustee and Past
President of ITAMMA, founder of “B. K. Mehta Endowment
Fund” has encouraged the Excellence for Technology and
Innovations of ITAMMA Members. While Mr. J. G. Roy,
Trustee and Past President of ITAMMA founder of “J. G.
Roy Endowment Fund” encouraging the Export Excellence
of ITAMMA members.
Ms Hansaben Mehta, President- NASEOH has further
continued the role of the generous devotees by recently
strengthening financially the “B. K. Mehta Endowment
Fund.”
The Committee decided to organize celebrations at
Ahmedabad on 12th Jan’2019, at Mumbai on 17th
Jan’2019 and Coimbatore on 25th Jan’2019.
The celebrations at Ahmedabad were organized at Raju-
wada Restaurant inviting Mr. Kamal Singh, Director, MSME
Development Institute, Ahmedabad as the Chief Guest
while Dr. Jaimin R. Vasa, Sr. Vice-President, Gujarat Cham-
ber of Commerce & industry, Ahmedabad as the Guest
of Honour and were followed by a “Shyam–E- Gazal Nite.”
[Lamp lighting by the Chief Guest Shri Kamal Singh, Director, MSME
DEVELOPMENT INSTITUTE,]
Those at Coimbatore were organized at Hotel Residency
Towers, inviting Dr. K. V. Srinivasan MD, Premier Mills Pvt
Ltd, Coimbatore as the Chief Guest and Mr. V. Lakshmi-
narayanasamy, President, The Indian Chamber of Com-
merce, Coimbatore as the Guest of Honour and which
was followed by a “Musical Evening.”
The dignitaries on the dais during the Platinum Jubilee
celebration at Coimbatore.
Between the two events, the main event was organised
on at ITC Grand Maratha Hotel, Mumbai of the 17th of
January. This event was graciously honoured by the pres-
ence of Mr T. C. A. Ranganathan, Retired Chairman EXIM
Bank and Mr Ninad Karpe, in-coming Chairman Western
Region, CII.
[Felicitation of Past-Presidents of ITAMMA during Platinum Jubilee Year
2018-19]

EVENT UPDATE
In the Pre-Event Session all the Past Presidents of ITAM-
MA were felicitated with a Platinum Jubilee Memento and
were assembled for a Group Photo.
India ITME Society played a very important role in joining
hands to make this function a memorable one by invit-
ing a Delegation from Uganda, Rwanda, Tanzania, Kenya,
Nepal and Ethiopia.
The event was started by a hearty welcome speech de-
livered by Kaizar Z. Mahuwala, President, and ITAMMA.
While mentioning about its foundation the President
highlighted the changing role of the Association. Mention-
ing how it is still evolving the Mr. Mahuwala said, “The pre-
sent leaders do not fight for a revolution but heralds its
members towards a technological evolution. The associa-
tion is vigilant keeping up with the new needs experiences
and prudently steps in the new era”. Various projects in
furtherance of achieving this goal of Digitalisation that
had been undertaken by the Association such as the sign-
ing of MOU with 26 Research Associations and Institutions
in India and with 6 International Industrial Associations
as well. Concluding his speech with gratitude to ITMA So-
ciety, Machani Group, Indocount Industries and ITAMMA
Managing Committee for making the event happen the
President referred to the Association’s vision of, “Towards
Making Indian Textile Industry A World Leader”.
The speech was followed by the launch of the “Commem-
orative-film” “Commemorative-film,” highlighted “ITAM-
MA-Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow” (giving the insight
on the contribution of ITAMMA as ‘One Voice’ to the In-
dian Textile Engineering Industry during its journey of 75
years and it’s Road Map for achieving its Vision)
Launching of Commemorative Film
The event was also graced by the felicitations of Mr. Nar-
endra L. Shah and Mr. R. Anand with ‘Life Time Achieve-
ment Awards.’
It was followed by the release of the “Coffee Table Book”
(which covered literature of Origins of Textiles, Kadhi and
Handloom, embedded with various historical contribu-
tions to the Handloom Industry) and the Platinum Jubilee
Souvenir(with a special emphasize on “Next Generation
Manufacturing”) with the hands of Ms. Hansaben Mehta,
President- NASEOH, the generous devotees.
Felicitation of Mr. R. Anand
This was followed by the Speech by the Guest of Honour
Mr Ninad Karpe, where he utilised his time by showing a
PowerPoint Presentation which with various real-life in-
stances he showcased how important technological ad-
vancement is. One such example was of a taxi driver who
had posted a video of himself on YouTube along with his
contact details by using no extra gadget other than his
smart phone. The taxi wala is now flooded with orders
from across the globe and is doing extremely good. He
also stated the reason for China’s growth as self-depend-
ency. China’s extensive use of digital medium and how it
reduced the pressure on humans.
Release of Souvenir by the hands of Mrs. Hansaben Mehta, President –
NASEOH]
Thereafter the Chief Guest Mr. T. C. S. Ranganathan, Re-
tired Chairman, EXIM Bank delivered
the Chief Guest Address. Thereafter the Chief Guest Mr.
T. C. S. Ranganathan, Retired Chairman, EXIM Bank deliv-
ered the Chief Guest Address.
While mentioning the importance of the milestone he em-
phasised on the other reasons that they have to celebrate.
While giving statistics of various countries he highlighted
the fact that in nowhere is there such a high dominance

April 2019 issue

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