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![21www.textilevaluechain.comNovember 2018
TECHNICAL TEXTILE
DEVELOPMENT OF HIGH STRENGTH COST
EFFECTIVE SEAMLESSTECHNICAL CIRCULAR FABRIC FROM HEAVY
DENIER MULTIFILAMENTYARNS
In modern times with emerging contribution of Technical
Textiles in all spheres of human life, the Geo-textiles have
opened up new areas in civil engineering. The technol-
ogy is gradually upgrading and regions which were earlier
unworkable are now being developed. However, in some
applications like Geo-textile Encased Columns for con-
struction of roads in extremely soft soils where tubular
structure of the fabric is formed by stitching; the seams
due to its lower strength and different fabric properties
have become a major concern for its implementation in
real structures as it adversely affects the structure. Due
to which there has been limited development in this field.
In this backdrop an affordable and locally available High
Strength technical seamless circular fabric from high ten-
sile strength synthetic yarns developed using simple cir-
cular weaving technology will be ideal for such and other
applications where circular Geo-textile is required espe-
cially for Indian sub-region.
Introduction
One of the sectors of textile industry that has received
significant attention across the world is Technical Textiles.
Technical Textiles are defined as textile materials and
products used primarily for their technical performance
and functional properties. Unlike conventional textiles
where aesthetic value is one of the key usage consid-
erations, Technical Textiles are used on account of their
specific physical and functional properties. Technical Tex-
tiles are used individually as a stand-alone product, or
as a component part of another product to improve the
performance of the product. Technical Textiles are also
referred to as industrial textiles, functional textiles, per-
formance textiles or engineering textiles.
Technical Textile has become a major segment globally
because of several advantages like functional require-
ment, health and safety, cost effectiveness, durability,
high strength etc. It is a large and growing sector and sup-
ports a vast array of other industries. The global growth
rates of technical textiles are about 4% per year greater
than the growth of home and apparel textiles, which are
growing at a rate of 1% per year.
Technical textiles are segregated into 12 major
segments
In recent times Geo-textile Encased Columns have be-
come most sought after technology the world over for
construction of civil structures on soft grounds. However,
for this structures tubular fabric is required [Figure1-Geo-
textile Encase Columns [GEC] for construction of roads
in soft soils].The advantages of tubular Geo-textiles,
drawback of present circular fabric structure, the new
seamless Circular fabric development and its benefits is
discussed here.
Figure1: Geo-textile Encased Columns [GEC]
Geo-textile Encase Columns
Large areas of India are covered with soft clay depos-
its, especially coastal regions. As a result of economic
growth, many infrastructure projects, such as roadway
embankments, are being constructed in areas with weak
soil deposits. Many challenging problems have been en-
countered with regard to construction on soft soil depos-
its including bearing capacity issues, excessive deforma-
tion, and slope instability. The instability or deep-seated
failure of a roadway embankment constructed on a soft
foundation has become a serious issue for geotechnical
engineers. Several ground improvement techniques have
been widely implemented to avoid deep-seated failures
in weak soils including sand compaction columns, stone
columns, and deep mixed columns. The problems due to
soft soils are low bearing capacity, excessive settlement
and deep seated foundation failure [Figure 2]
GEC
GEC
LOAD TEXTILE
Soft Soil
Hard Ground
Failure wedge
Embankment
Firm Soil](https://image.slidesharecdn.com/novemberissue2018finalpdf-181127060637/85/TEXTILE-VALUE-CHAIN-November-issue-2018-21-320.jpg)
![22 www.textilevaluechain.com November 2018
TECHNICAL TEXTILE
The stone column, or granular pile technique, has been
widely adopted to improve the soft soils through the in-
clusion of granular columns which have a stiffness and
drainage capability that is far higher than those of the
surrounding weak soil. In addition to the above benefits,
this technique is characterized by the ease of construc-
tion. Stone columns have been widely used since 1970s
to strengthen a foundation soil carrying heavy ironworks.
Since a stone column (see Figure 3a)) derives its bearing
capacity from the passive resistance offered by the na-
tive surrounding soil, the inclusion of stone columns in
very soft soils may not be sufficient to the desired level
of improvement. When embedded in soft clay, stone col-
umns may bulge due to lack of confinement offered by
the surrounding soft soil. Furthermore, the soft clay may
enter the voids between granular material of column to
cause clogging and reduce the permeability of granular
columns for drainage.
Therefore, Geo-textile encased stone columns (as shown
in Figure 3b) are proposed as a convenient technique for
improving soft soils that have un-drained shear strengths
lower than 15 kPa. Encasing the stone column within
Geo-textiles made up of woven high strength synthetic
yarns increases the stiffness of the column and thereby
increases its load capacity and no clogging of soft soil with
granular stone column when compared with the ordinary
stone columns.
Figure 3 (a) Ordinary stone column; (b) Geo-textile encased stone column
Figure 3: Illustration of advantages of Geo-textile encased columns
Figure 4.0: Installation of Geo-textile Encased Stone Columns [GEC]
The installation of Geo-textile encased stone columns
involves driving a steel casing with a closed end tip into
the ground to create a hole. A Geo-textile tube is then in-
serted inside the steel casing and the granular material is
then backfilled. The tip of the casing is opened as the steel
casing is withdrawn from the soil with vibration to densify
the infill material as shown in figure 4.0.
A. The Geo-textiles
Natural fibers such as flax, jute and ramie can be used
for most temporary application where, for instance, soil
erosion is the problem. The Geo-textiles made from these
natural polymers help to prevent the erosion of soils by
allowing vegetative growth and their subsequent root es-
tablishment. Once the purpose is served, the Geo-textile
material gradually disintegrates into the soil. In most me-
dium to long term applications as in Geo-textile Encased
Columns, Geo-tubes/bags where physical and chemical
durability and dimensional stabilities are of prime con-
cern, synthetic fibers are preferred. There are currently at
least four synthetic polymers considered suitable for this
purpose; they include: polypropylene, polyester, polyeth-
ylene and polyvinyl chloride.
Woven Geo-textiles form the major component of all
Geo-textile products. The manufacturing process involves
weaving of high tensile strength [≥ 6 GPD] and low elon-
gation yarns [<12-14%] into fabrics. Yarns of Polyester,
Polypropylene, and nylon in multi-filaments /monofila-
ment/tape forms are widely used in weaving. Multifila-
ment fabrics are characterized by their high strength and
resistance to stretch, these properties being enhanced as
the tenacity of the yarn increases. Multifilament yarns are
also more flexible than monofilaments, a property which
facilitates weaving of the tightest and most efficient of all
woven fabrics. Filament yarns of linear density 1100 dtex
and 2200 dtex are predominantly used in plain weave
constructions for Geo-textiles. Wide width looms are spe-
cifically used for producing Geo-textiles.
Woven Geo-textiles are mainly used for:
ƒ Reinforcement of Unpaved Roadways, Paved Road-
ways, etc
ƒ Separation applications in, Unpaved Roadways, Paved
Roadways, Sediment Control, etc.](https://image.slidesharecdn.com/novemberissue2018finalpdf-181127060637/85/TEXTILE-VALUE-CHAIN-November-issue-2018-22-320.jpg)
![23www.textilevaluechain.comNovember 2018
TECHNICAL TEXTILE
ƒ As components in geo-composites
ƒ Geo-textile Encased Columns [GEC] for Construction of
roads
ƒ Geo-tubes /Geo-bags for control of soil erosion in river
banks/coastal areas
B. Disadvantage of Present Tubular Geo-textiles
In majority of applications flat fabric suffices the require-
ment. However, in some special cases tubular structure
of the Geo-textile is required for example in GEC, Geo-
tubes, Geo-bags; which is formed by stitching fabric end
to end [Figure-5]. Seam is always a problem in a stitched
circular fabric as it introduces a weak point in the fabric
compared to other parts. The functional properties also
changes in the seam part of the fabric. During application
all parts of the fabric come under same stress and always
there are chances of failure at Seam. The Seam failure can
be highly dangerous to the structure.
Figure: 5 Tubular Geo-textiles with seam
The Loading tests performed on Geo-textile encased
sand columns in both air and surrounded with weak soil
showed that the Geo-textile sleeve typically failed at a
seam. This finding supports the practice of using seam-
less encasements in real structures [Figure 6].
Figure: 6 Failure of Tubular Geo-textiles at seam
C. Overcoming the shortcomings of present Tubular Geo-
textiles
In tubular Geo-textile the fabric is stitched end to end to
make a circular form, however the seam makes the fabric
weak and ineffectual for the purpose. In an attempt to
resolve the selvedge related issues in tubular Geo-textiles
SASMIRA, Mumbai have developed ‘High Strength Cost
effective Seamless Technical Circular Fabric from Heavy
Denier Polyester Multifilament Yarns’ which will give sig-
nificant advantage. It can be used for Geo-textile Encased
Columns in construction of roads in soft soils [Figure 1]
and also in Geo-bags& Geo-tubes for control of soil ero-
sion in river banks/coastal areas where stitched fabric
is used [Figure 7]. SASMIRA has filed patent for this de-
velopment [Application No.E-2/2502/2017-MUM Dated
15/11/2017]. At present there is no manufacturer for this
kind of Geo-textiles in India
Figure: 7 Geo-tube Geo-bags
D.Development of High Strength Seamless Fabric with
Polyester Multi-filament Yarns
It is pertinent to mention that Tubular Geo-textile was at-
tempted on conventional shuttle loom on double cloth
principle. However, due to coarse and low twist synthetic
Multifilament Yarns, there was thread distortion and fila-
ment rupture leading to reduction in desired properties
in selvedge region due to use of strong temples as com-
pared to body [Figure-8].
Figure: 8 weaving fault of Tubular Fabric at selvedge
Therefore, to avoid the selvedge related problems in the
fabric circular weaving principle was adopted. Circular
Loom is a weaving machine in which two or more shuttles
move simultaneously in a circle, laying weft threads in a
section of warp thread, forming a shed. They are used in
the production of hoses and bags. The warps rise and fall
with each shuttle passage, unlike the common practice
of lifting all of them at once [Figure.9]. Here the bobbins
are mounted on the creel which serves as warp and weft
is inserted by rotating shuttles in the multiple plain shed
formed by the Heddle belts connected to cams. The circu-](https://image.slidesharecdn.com/novemberissue2018finalpdf-181127060637/85/TEXTILE-VALUE-CHAIN-November-issue-2018-23-320.jpg)
![24 www.textilevaluechain.com November 2018
TECHNICAL TEXTILE
lar fabric is then pulled by take up roller and finally wound
on winder.
Figure: 9 Circular Weaving Machine
Advantages of Circular loom
y Circular Weaving Principal - Simple technology
y Multiple pick insertion – High Productivity
y No Selvedges - Not possible on modern shuttle-less
looms
y Economical as many steps of conventional weaving
are not required like re-winding, warping, frequent
gaiting etc.
The specifications of the fabric for use in Geo-textile En-
cased Columns [GEC] were decided like yarn Tenacity,
count, EPI, PPI and TPM of warp and weft. After several
trials the Proposed Seamless fabric was developed on the
Circular Loom after modifications/precautions as under:
ƒ Controlled warp let-off
ƒ Smooth warp passage
ƒ Application of anti-static oil
ƒ Optimum twist application
ƒ No cuts/worn out tensioners and heddles
ƒ Suitable Take up roller cloth for heavy fabric
ƒ Correct rating of take up & batch roller motor to take
the load
ƒ Compact wound weft bobbin
ƒ Clear Shed Formation
ƒ Ceramic guides at important points
ƒ Frequent cleaning of machines with compressed air
ƒ Strong spreader arrangement
Figure:10 Polyester MFY High Strength Seamless Fabric on Circular
Weaving Machine
The test results of 400mm diameter Seamless Circular
fabric developed with high tenacity Polyester Multi-fila-
ment Yarns [MFY] for Geo-textile Encased Columns [GEC]
are as under:
From above it can be inferred that the developed sample
meets the necessary specifications.
Benefits of developed Seamless Tubular Geo-textile for
stone columns:
y The seamless circular structure with Multi-Filament
Yarns capable of being developed on existing circular
weaving looms with locally fabricated modifications
y Reinforcement sleeve diameters between 0.4 m and
1.0 m can be made
y The developed fabric is technically in compliance with
recommended parameters
y The indigenous Circular looms are costing from Rs. 15-
45 lacs as per diameter. Whereas, imported shuttle
weaving machines capable of making tubular struc-
ture on double cloth principle costing about Rs. 3-4
Crores. The conventional technology will further add
to final cost due to higher conversion charges.
y High Denier yarn can be woven easily [ up-to 20000 dn
& more ]
y High GSM fabric can be developed [ ≥ 1000 GSM ]
y High Tensile strength fabric possible [≥400 kN/m]
y Affordable Cost of circular fabric for Indian mark
y Suitable for soft soils with cu < 15 kN/m²
y Almost all settlement takes place within construction
period
y Adjacent buildings are unaffected by settlement
y System is fully loadable immediately after completion
y High embankments can be built in short time with no
Sr.
No.
Parameter Test Standard Unit Values
Recommended
Achieved
Value
1. Weight/Sq mts ASTM D
5261-10
GSM -- 972
2. Tensile
Strength [MD]
ENISO 10319 Kn/m 100-110 112.0
3. Elongation at
maximum load
[MD]
ENISO 10319 % 7- 13 14
4. Tensile
Strength [CD]
ENISO 10319 Kn/m 300 - 330 375.9
5. Elongation at
maximum load
[CD]
ENISO 10319 % 7 - 13 16
6. Water
Permeability
ASTM
D4491-16
Lt/sq
mt/sec
10-20 13.5
7. Static Puncture
test
ENISO
12236-06
kN 7-12 14.7
8. Dynamic
Perforation
ENISO
13433
mm 15-20 No Hole
Formation](https://image.slidesharecdn.com/novemberissue2018finalpdf-181127060637/85/TEXTILE-VALUE-CHAIN-November-issue-2018-24-320.jpg)
![26 www.textilevaluechain.com November 2018
MACHINERY UPDATE
Textile industry is resource intensive and is often criti-
cized for its environmental performance. Textile process-
es rely heavily on water, energy, and synthetic dyes and
chemicals. Where it is noted that this Industry is consum-
ing 1 trillion gallons of water, 33 trillion gallons of oil, and
20 billion pounds of chemicals -(Cotton Incorporated).
Where the Machines play a vital role in controlling the
consumption of the above natural resources as well as
controlling the pollution of air, water, environment &
ecological aspects; and also conservation of energy, lubri-
cants, dyes, chemicals, etc.
Manufacturing technology is not what it used to be a dec-
ade ago. Today’s increasingly automated and software
driven industries have reduced human intervention to
pressing only a few buttons in some cases. The applica-
tion of advanced technologies in manufacturing such as
nanotechnology, cloud computing, the Internet of Things
(IoT) is changing the face of manufacturing in ways un-
imaginable a few decades ago. In addition to cutting the
costs, these technologies create speed, precision, effi-
ciency and flexibility for manufacturing companies.
It’s no secret that OEMs are looking to build more “intel-
ligence” into mobile and industrial machines. The goal
is to make the equipment they sell more productive and
efficient, safer, and easier to operate and maintain. Fur-
ther marrying electronic controls and software with hy-
draulics, pneumatics and mechanical systems equating
to lower fuel consumption, lower emissions, faster cycle
times, safer operation, easy-to-access data metrics and
condition.
Equally important, the basis of competition is shifting to-
ward delivering excellence in service and parts manage-
ment. The digital revolution is now breaching the walls of
manufacturing as it continues to disrupt media, finance,
consumer products, healthcare, and other sectors.
Indeed, the explosion in data and new computing capa-
bilities along with advances in other areas such as artifi-
cial intelligence, automation and robotics, additive tech-
nology, and human-machine interaction—are unleashing
innovations that will change the nature of manufacturing
itself.
Industry and academic leaders agree that digital manu-
facturing technologies will transform every link in the
manufacturing value chain from research and develop-
ment, supply chain, and factory operations to marketing,
sales, and serice.
Digital connectivity among designers, managers, work-
ers, consumers, and physical industrial assets will unlock
enormous value and change the manufacturing land-
scape forever.
Consider traditional car manufacturers and Uber, which
are both at the highest level in the business of moving
people around.
Car makers meet that need on the floors of factories and
showrooms, using a century of manufacturing experi-
ence.
Uber meets people’s transportation needs not with steel,
glass, rubber, and sales people but with data, matching
individual riders and vehicles via smart phones. Barely
five years into its existence, it is valued at about $50 bil-
lion.
Uber’s data, algorithms, and enormous growth pros-
pects have already made it more valuable than all of the
physical assets, intellectual property, and brand names of
some of the world’s biggest car manufacturers.
Further with the application of 3D printing technology it
is now possible to produce almost any component using
metal, plastic, mixed materials and even human tissue.
Presently Indian production of textile machines is 1.2 bil-
lion USD against 2.7 billion USD market size India Exports
0.5 billion USD and Imports 2.1 billion USD.
This Industry has a huge supply chain of Ginning, Spinning,
Weaving & its Preparatory, Wet Processing, Garment, Ap-
parel and Fashion. As the field of the subject is very vast
the content of this article is restricted to the Technological
Development in the design aspects of Weaving & Weaving
Preparatory machines and their Lubrication systems to
grow green. Lubricants and Lubrication plays a very vital
role in this Industry considering variety of machines are
working with different speeds, loads, under different en-
vironments of humidity, temperature, chemicals, fumes,
steam, fluff, etc. and accordingly a remarkable develop-
ment have been taken place in the grades and properties
of lubricants as well as its application system.
Weaving Loom Shed
While noise pollution is the main concern in a Weaving
shed, while the discharge of water with chemicals in siz-
ing is a headache in the weaving preparatory sector. In
the looms, shuttle picking motions which is supposed to
be the heart of the loom and so the noise producing mo-
tion has been replaced by various lighter medium tech-
nologies like projectile, rapier, water and air-jets. [Fig-1
& 1(a)]. Shuttle of about half kg. weight was considered
to be the heaviest carrier of the weft, consuming highest
energy and maximum travel time. It is now replaced with
GROW GREEN WITH SMARTER & EASYTO
MAINTAIN TEXTILE MACHINES](https://image.slidesharecdn.com/novemberissue2018finalpdf-181127060637/85/TEXTILE-VALUE-CHAIN-November-issue-2018-26-320.jpg)
![27www.textilevaluechain.comNovember 2018
MACHINERY UPDATE
lighter or no weight and faster mediums.
1&1(a) Shuttle, Projectile, Rapier, Water and Air-jet heads
Further the replacement of plastic/leather material used
as a shock absorbent by a Zama Buffer and Hydraulic
Dampers [(Fig-2 & 2(a)] and also introduction of Special
Weltac Oil have considerably reduced noise due to bang-
ing of picking stick and picking nose with picking bowl,
further enhancing the life of these spares.
2 & 2 (a) Zama Buffer and Hydraulic Dampers
The crank beat up motion, being additionally noise pro-
ducing, is now converted to cam motions. [Fig-3 & 3 (a)].
The basic principle of Common Drive is shifted to Individ-
ual drive and at the same time introduction of compact
and effective trapezoid belts replacing the conventional
flat, v-belts, resulted in reduction of speed losses due to
slippages, and lead to effective loom stoppage.
3 &3 (a) Crank Beat- up motion and Cam motion.
The functioning of Secondary Motions like Take-up and
Let-off through mechanical linkages controlled by one
point Tappet motion is now separately controlled through
Servo motors thus executing the action very fast and fur-
ther saving lubricants and electrical power, further pre-
serving noise at the lowest level.
The lengthy linkage of Cam, roller and levers working on
frictional principle as a driving motion in the Shedding As-
sembly is replaced by a direct drive through a one piece
cam of steel in oil bath [Fig-4 & 4(a)] and levers having a
positive drive to the heald frames, by providing all these
assemblies outside the loom at one side thus resulting to
be User Friendly to the operative and also reducing wear
and tear, downtime for lubrication and manual interven-
tion.
4 & 4(a) Conventional Shedding Assembly and One piece Cam of Steel
in Oil bath
Further, open oil holes are converted to oil baths/oil res-
ervoirs [Fig-5 & 5 (a)] and self lubricated bearings, which
apart from reducing the consumption and contamination
of lubricants also helps in reducing the heat generated
due to friction created among the high speed spares, thus
further reduces the machine downtime and human inter-
vention.
5 & 5 (a) Conventional loom with Open Oil holes and Developed
Looms with Oil baths/Oil Reservoirs
The introduction of Super speed Shuttleless looms have
demanded an effective lubricants and their application
systems as in Projectile Shuttleless loom where high vis-
cosity oil does not centrifuges away but remain on fast
moving chain and avoids transfer of heat generated by
chain on to projectile; while in Rapier looms force circula-
tion lubrication system is effective at all assemblies; and
in Air-jet looms the Oil Circulating system with filters help
in sustaining the status of lubricants inherently.](https://image.slidesharecdn.com/novemberissue2018finalpdf-181127060637/85/TEXTILE-VALUE-CHAIN-November-issue-2018-27-320.jpg)
![28 www.textilevaluechain.com November 2018
MACHINERY UPDATE
Weaving Preparatory Section
The developments in attending the broken thread manu-
ally on conventional common drive winding machine to
individual spindle driven with a knotting and splicing sys-
tems have remarkably increased the productivity, prod-
uct quality, wear and tear of spares due to idle spindle
running, lubricants and proved to be User-friendly. The
incidences of costly Bakelite drums getting damaged on
the mechanically operated systems on the conventional
machines due to sharp free falling of the cradle over the
drum have been controlled by a cradle damping unit on
the developed machines with a high performance lubri-
cants resulting in a smooth and steady descending of the
cradle over the drum. [Fig-6 & 6(a)]
6 & 6(a) Cradle damping unit on the developed machines with high
performance Lubricants
With the introduction of the pneumatically controlled hy-
draulic circulatory system over the Developed Warping
machines have resulted in the effective braking system
[Fig-7 & 7 (a)] of the guide rollers and warping beams run-
ning at very high speeds and had also made a provision of
automatically loading and unloading of heavy and huge
warping beams which is unsafe and laborious as done
manually on the conventional machines.
7 & 7(a) Pneumatically controlled Hydraulic Circulatory system over
the Developed Warping machines
Thus while concluding we can say that the introduction
of Technological Development in the design aspects of
Weaving & Weaving Preparatory machines and their Lu-
brication systems have shown a remarkable reduction in
the annual consumption of lubricants in comparison to
those by conventional textile machines as given in table
below, thus contribution to the National gain and GDP of
the Country.
Winding machines Warping machines Sizing machines Wea
Conventional Developed Conventional Develope d Conventional Developed Conv
Oil(Ltrsinlakhs) 0.07 0.05 4.75 0.30 3.01 0.08 355
Grease (Kgs in
lakhs)
0.05 0.03 0.09 0.06 1.24 0.05 23
Winding machines Warping machines Sizing machines Weaving Looms
Conventional Developed Conventional Develope d Conventional Developed Conventional Developed
Oil(Ltrsinlakhs) 0.07 0.05 4.75 0.30 3.01 0.08 355 45
Grease (Kgs in
lakhs)
0.05 0.03 0.09 0.06 1.24 0.05 23 5
N. D. MHATRE
Director General (Tech),
ITAMMA](https://image.slidesharecdn.com/novemberissue2018finalpdf-181127060637/85/TEXTILE-VALUE-CHAIN-November-issue-2018-28-320.jpg)
![29www.textilevaluechain.comNovember 2018
GLOBAL FOCUS
IMPORTANCE OF CONTROVERSIAL RUSSIAN MISSILE
SYSTEM S-400? AND WHY EVERYBODY WANTS IT?
The system is an upgrade to the S-300, which Syria re-
cently purchased, with potential clients such as India and
Turkey.
The Vostok-2018 war games in eastern Siberia last month
marked Russia’s biggest military exercise in more than 30
years, with about 300,000 Russian, Chinese and Mongo-
lian troops taking part.
More than just an exercise, the war games were a pub-
lic relations opportunity to showcase military hardware,
Russia’s second-biggest source of income after oil.
During Vostok-2018, Russia showed off the S-400 sur-
face-to-air missile, one of the country’s most advanced
and marketable weapons systems in recent years.
The S-400 is a massive upgrade to the S-300, its predeces-
sor which was recently sent to Syria.
Russian S-400 Triumph medium-range and long-range surface-to-air
missile systems
Because of its capabilities, several countries including
Saudi Arabia, Turkey, India and Qatar have said they are
willing to buy the S-400. China already bought this.
Several countries including Saudi Arabia, Turkey, India and Qatarhave
said they are willing to buy the S-400.
Almost every government that announced it was plan-
ning to buy the system was threatened with some kind of
diplomatic retaliation from the US, NATO or adversaries.
The reason for this blowback, according to several experts
is not only because the S-400 is technologically advanced,
it also poses a potential risk for long-standing alliances.
The S-400 is among the most advanced air defence sys-
tems available, on par with the best the West has to of-
fer. Its radars and other sensors, as well as its missiles,
cover an extensive area - the radar has a range of at least
600km for surveillance, and its missiles have ranges of up
to 400km. It’s precise and it manages to track a very large
number of potential targets, including stealth targets.
Other advantages are its modular setup and high mobil-
ity, meaning it can be set up, fired and moved within min-
utes. The S-400 is among the most advanced air defence
systems available, on par with the best the West has to
offer.
It’s intended to be a one-size-fits-all missile system. It can
be configured with long-range, semi long-range, medium-
range and even short-range weapons systems, depend-
ing on how the individual user wishes to configure the
S-400.
It’s very rugged, it’s adaptable and it’s a road-mobile sys-
tem, something many countries are seeking to evolve to.
Turkey, a NATO member, is one of the most significant
potential buyers of the S-400. But Turkey’s interest in the
Russian missile system spooked its Western NATO allies,
for technical and political reasons.
In the technological sense, the S-400 would certainly be
a step forward [for Turkey], but it’s not necessarily in the
best interest of NATO to have that weapons system in-
tegrated within its broader architecture. The S-400 could
lead to a potentially dangerous situation.
When you look at the Russian S-400 system, especially in](https://image.slidesharecdn.com/novemberissue2018finalpdf-181127060637/85/TEXTILE-VALUE-CHAIN-November-issue-2018-29-320.jpg)
![30 www.textilevaluechain.com November 2018
GLOBAL FOCUS
a NATO structure, there’s a scale of difficulty when inte-
grating it into the bigger defence system.
If you take it as a very benign situation, the simplest sce-
nario is that its data might not be able to be incorporated
into the defensive architecture that is currently used by
NATO. That’s probably the best worst-case scenario.
NATO relies heavily on several systems working together
in a larger network.
What kind of contracts would be in place with Russian
technicians taking care of the S-400, for example, would
Russian maintenance personnel have access to [NATO]
data?
The worst-case scenario is that there might be vulnerabili-
ties associated with that system that could be exploited
by a potential adversary.
Plugging it in could potentially actively compromise your
own defensive network.
For India, Saudi Arabia and Qatar, who are not part of
an alliance such as NATO, buying a system like the S-400
would lead to fewer technological issues, but they could
risk diplomatic and economic repercussions from the US.
In 2017, the US implemented the Countering America’s
Adversaries Sanctions Act(CAATSA) in a response to al-
leged Russian interference in the 2016 US presidential
elections and military involvement in both Ukraine and
Syria.
CAATSA allows the US to act against individuals, compa-
nies or countries that are “disturbing international secu-
rity”.
The US is looking to isolate Russia following on from the
events in Ukraine and beyond
However, India decided earlier this week to buy the weap-
ons system.
India places top priority on ties with Russia. In today’s
fast-changing world, our relationship assumes height-
ened importance. India Prime Minister Narendra Modi
told told Russia President Vladimir Putin after they signed
the $5bn deal. The chances of the US following through
on its threats of sanctions are slim, especially for coun-
tries like India or Saudi Arabia. The sanctions are not au-
tomatic and exemptions are possible if in the national
interest of the US.
Sanctions are actually unlikely as India and others are too
important as military and political partners for the US.
Even limited sanctions would probably make those coun-
tries quite angry - angry enough to hurt US interests. But
even if economic sanctions are unlikely, upsetting the US
could lead to a diplomatic spat.
There is also a diplomatic issue here, as the agreement
to sell sensitive technology to a country implies a wider
alignment of a range of political issues, and that is why
the US is looking to isolate Russia following on from the
events in Ukraine and beyond. For the US, these purchas-
es from more than just a military threat - they are about
countering Russia’s involvement in global conflicts, but
also about maintaining long-standing US diplomatic rela-
tions and preventing Russia receiving hard currency for
its equipment.
The US has been working at finding ways to strengthen its
diplomatic responses on the world stage to countries that
violate the global rules-based order.
So why would Turkey, India or any other country risk dip-
lomatic relations with the US?
India does not like to necessarily buy from one vendor
and be overly dependent on one country, so from an In-
dian perspective geopolitically it does make sense to buy
some systems from Russia and some from the US. India
also has a long-standing relationship as far as buying
hardware from Russia, so they have a lot of experience
with this equipment. Another motive is sharing military
technology, something the US is not eager to do, unlike
to Russia. Russia is willing to supply S-400 to probably
about anyone and to share technology to some extent
which may be advantage and disadvantage too?
MR. ARVIND SINHA - CEO
M/s. Business Advisors Group, Mumbai](https://image.slidesharecdn.com/novemberissue2018finalpdf-181127060637/85/TEXTILE-VALUE-CHAIN-November-issue-2018-30-320.jpg)
![42 www.textilevaluechain.com November 2018
On the other hand, the products like chaddar, bedsheets,
towel and terry towels contributed significantly in the
hometextile segment. In addition, the products like mos-
quito net, pillow cover or cushion cover, furnishing mate-
rials, blankets have also increased their presence in the
product basket.
Conclusion
The demand for the household sector is the major con-
tributor to the overall growth of the sector with 53.39
percentage of share in the total market size. While the
export of T&C decreased at 4.66 percentage, the demand
in household & non-household sector grew by 2.82 and
1.51 percentage respectively during 2016.
It is worth mentioning that the growth in household de-
mand of textiles has brought about additional demand
for 2525 Mn.metres of fabrics, which is an indication to
the required capacity expansion in the fabrics manufac-
turing in the country. Similarly, the growing demand for
the newly emerged products like legging etc. provides
an indication at the change in preference pattern of the
consumers in the country during the period. Hence, the
many findings in the report may provide authentic data &
insights for informed decision making by the businesses,
trade & industry, researchers & policy makers etc.
he Lenzing Group (Lenzing) has announced the launch
of a new VEOCEL™ Lyocell fiber with Eco Disperse tech-
nology which is designed for use in flushable wipes. This
new fiber demonstrates enhanced biological disintegra-
tion performance. The inclusion of this new fiber ena-
bles more diverse design opportunities while providing
exemplary wet strength and disintegration performance.
Versatile and tailor-made for daily care routines, the new
VEOCEL™ Lyocell fiber with Lenzing’s Eco Disperse tech-
nology offers optimized flushability and represents the
most advanced fiber under the VEOCEL™ brand portfolio.
With botanic origin, all VEOCEL™ Lyocell fibers with Eco
Disperse technology feature strong wet strength, biodeg-
radability and effective liquid management. These cellu-
losic fibers come in cut lengths of 8 mm to
12 mm, and are versatile for blending ratios of 20% - 40%
in most wetlaid processing technologies. Nonwoven prod-
ucts featuring a blend containing any of the VEOCEL™
Lyocell fibers with Eco Disperse technology and wood
pulp have been certified as “fully flushable” per INDA/
EDANA[[1]] Guidelines for Assessing the Flushability of
Disposable Nonwoven Products issued in May 2018, after
passing seven rigorous industrial tests.
“Flushability” is not only a hot topic among media, regu-
lators and the nonwoven industry value chain, but also
a growing social issue that impacts the sewer infrastruc-
ture in communities around the world. The introduction
of VEOCEL™ Lyocell fibers with Eco Disperse technology is
a positive example of Lenzing’s advocacy for the adoption
of more sustainable alternatives in the nonwoven indus-
try value chain and meets the various product and perfor-
mance requirements across different core markets.
“We take a proactive approach and lay the foundation for
flushable wet wipes that combine convenience with en-
vironmental responsibility, so that we can bring optimal
quality and performance to flushable nonwoven prod-
ucts, as well as other nonwoven segments,” said Wolf-
gang Plasser, Vice President of Global Business Manage-
ment Nonwovens, Lenzing AG.
While non-biodegradable synthetic fibers (e.g. polyester)
are the most common blending fibers in today’s nonwo-
ven fabrics for wipes applications, the versatility of VEO-
CEL™ fibers offer a sustainable and botanic alternative to
synthetic materials. When added to nonwoven products,
VEOCEL™ Lyocell fibers offers value-added benefits of en-
hanced absorbency, natural smoothness, and most im-
portantly, biodegradability.
Enabled by Eco Disperse technology, wipes made from
the new VEOCEL™ Lyocell fibers have high wet strength
usability and can disintegrate within a shorter period of
time. For instance, nonwoven fabrics with 20% of the new
VEOCEL™ Lyocell fibers and 80% of wood pulp reach >90%
disintegration within 30 minutes, which is faster than the
passing benchmark of the Disintegration Test FG502 in
INDA/EDANA Guidelines for Assessing the Flushability of
Disposable Nonwoven Products issued in May 2018.
VEOCEL™ Lyocell fibers are produced via a sustainable,
closed-loop process, where >99% of the solvent used for
the production process will be recovered and reused. The
fibers can be adopted as blending material for nonwo-
ven products including baby wipes, facial cleansing wipes,
flushable wipes, general purpose wipes, and intimate
wipes.
LENZING INTRODUCES NEWVEOCEL™ LYOCELL FIBERS DESIGNED
FOR ECO-RESPONSIBLE FLUSHABLE WIPES
MARKET REPORT
NEWS](https://image.slidesharecdn.com/novemberissue2018finalpdf-181127060637/85/TEXTILE-VALUE-CHAIN-November-issue-2018-42-320.jpg)
Uploaded byTEXTILE VALUE CHAIN
TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN November issue 2018
The November 2018 issue of Textile Value Chain covers various topics, including an overview of the ITMA Asia + CITME 2018 event, advancements in textile machinery, and sustainable practices in denim production. It highlights innovative technologies like the isaverTM by Itema, which reduces waste in weaving, and Oerlikon's digital solutions for improving manufacturing efficiency. Additionally, the publication reports on the growth in cotton and yarn exports and features insights from industry leaders and experts in textile technology.
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TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN November issue 2018
- 1. www.textilevaluechain.com TE TILEX VALUE CHAIN NOVEMBER2018 Volume 6 Issue 11 S Registered with Registrar of Newspapers under | RNI NO: MAHENG/2012/43707 Postal Registration No. MNE/346/2018-20 published on 5th of every month, TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN posted at Mumbai, Patrika Channel Sorting Office,Pantnagar, Ghatkopar-400075, posting date 18/19 of month | Pages 56 Overview of ITMA ASIA + CITME 2018 Clothing made from Rabbit Hair Fibre Reweaving the fabric of Vidarbha Technical Circular Fabric Grow Green and maintain machines Market Report : Cotton and Yarn Export, Surat
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- 3. 3www.textilevaluechain.comNovember 2018 The Comfortof Competence Ring Spinning Machine G 37 The ring spinning machine G 37 produces flexibly high-quality ring yarns. Yarn parameters can be easily changed on the operating unit. Energy-efficient components save energy. The individual spindle monitoring system ISM basic increases the efficiency of the machine and can safe about 3% personnel cost. www.rieter.com http://l.ead.me/ bayVeZ High-Quality Yarns Produced with High Flexibility
- 4. 4 www.textilevaluechain.com November2018 TEMPLE RINGS/ROLLERS YEARS India's Leading Manufacturer & Exporter of Picanol/Dornier/Vamatex/Sulzer/SometGRIPPERS RAPIER TAPES Picanol/Dornier/Vamatex/Sulzer/Somet Torrey Twister TEMPLES
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- 6. 6 www.textilevaluechain.com November2018 www.textilevaluechain.com46 March 2018 Contact: Suresh Saraf+91 9322 50 4449 / +91 9322 10 4449 | Nayan Saraf - +91 7498 88 1400 Office Landline - 91-22-6002 0119 / Email : sureshsaraf2000@yahoo.co.in | info@shreebalajisynfabs.com sureshsaraf@shreebalajisynfabs.com | Website : www.shreebalajisynfabs.com Address: Room No.-17, Ground Floor, 342 Kalbadevi Road, Mumbai- 400002 9699 25 8834 SHREE BALAJI SYNFABS SKBS MR.SURESH SARAF MR. NAYAN SARAF
- 7.
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- 9. 9www.textilevaluechain.comNovember 2018 NOVEMBER 2018CONTENT ITMAAsia Overview 2018 11- Oerlikon 12- ITEMA 13- Trutzschler 14- Monforts 15- Textechno 16- Santex Rimer 17- Sustainable Fibre : Clothing Made From Rabbit Hair Fibre by Dr. N.N. Mahapatra 19- Weaving Update: Reweaving The Fabric Of Vidarbha’s Tex- tile Industry By Anjan Banerjee 21 Technical Textile: Development Of High Strength Cost Ef- fective Seamless Technical Circular Fabric By Dr. U.K Gango- padhyay & Sanjay Saini 26 - Machinery Update : Grow Green With Smarter & Easy To Main¬tain Textile Machines By N. D. Mhatre 29- Global Focus: Importance Of Controversial Russian Mis- sile System S-400? And Why Everybody Wants It? By Mr. Arvind Sinha Event Update 31- ITMA Asia + CITME 2018 32- Yarn Expo Autumn 33- Silver Jubilee Celebration Of (Kushal Textile Institute) 35- Cotton Textile Export Grows By 26% During April To Sep- tember 2018 36 - Brand Focus : USTER EDITORIAL TEAM Editor and Publisher : Ms. Jigna Shah Chief Editor : Mr. Bhavesh Thakar Marketing Executive : Ms. Nishi Patel Graphic Designer : Mr. Anant A. Jogale INDUSTRY Mr. Devchand Chheda : City Editor - Vyapar ( Jan mabhumi Group) Mr. Manohar Samuel : President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries Mr. Shailendra Pandey : VP (Head – Sales and Marketing), Indian Rayon Mr. Ajay Sharma : GM RSWM (LNJ Bhilwara Group) Mr. Avinash Mayekar : Consulting Editor Dr. N.N. Mahapatra : Business Head (DYES), Shree Pushkar Chemicals & Fertilisers Ltd. Mr. R.D. Udeshi : President- Polyester Chain, Reliance Industries Ltd. EDUCATION / RESEARCH Mr. B.V. Doctor : HOD knitting, SASMIRA Dr. Ela Dedhia : Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College Dr. Mangesh D. Teli : Professor, Dean ICT Mr. R.M. Shankar : Asst. Director, ATIRA All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of any of the content from this issue is prohibited without explicit written permission of the publisher. Every effort has been made to ensure and present factual and accurate information. The views expressed in the articles published in this magazine are that of the respective authors and not necessarily that of the publisher. Textile Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely errors that might occur or any steps taken based in the information provided herewith. Registered Office Innovative Media and Information Co. 189/5263, Sanmati, Pantnagar, Ghatkopar (East), Mumbai 400075. Maharashtra, INDIA. Tel : +91-22-21026386 | Cell: +91-9769442239 Email: info@textilevaluechain.com | tvcmedia2012@gmail.com Web: www.textilevaluechain.com Owner, Publisher, Printer and Editor Ms. Jigna Shah Printed and Processed by her at, Impression Graphics, Gala no.13, Shivai Industrial Estate, Andheri Kurla Road, Sakinaka, Andheri (East), Mumbai 400072, Maharashtra, India. Advertiser Index Association News 38- AEPC 38- SWISSMEN 45- VDMA 47- SRTEPC Market Report 40- Market For Textiles & Clothing (MTC)’ 2017 by Textile Com- mittee 43- Cotton and yarn export 44- Global Textile pricing trend 46- Surat Report News 16- Statue Of Unity 20- Grasim Industries Limited 42 Lenzing 48 Show Calendar Back Page Raymond Back Inside LIVA Front Inside RAYSIL 3 RIETER 4 Sanjay Plastic 5 SGS Innovations 6 SKBS 7 LRT 8 Weaves 49 Vora Associate + Well Wisher 50 GTTES 51 CITI 52 Yarn Expo 2019 53 DTG 54 DN Associates
- 10. 10 www.textilevaluechain.com November2018 Ms. Jigna Shah Editor and Publisher ‘‘ EDITORIAL Learning Experience in Textile Technology and Yarn Expos in China … We understand you had productive Diwali Festive season and prayed almighty god for prosperity. First time visit to ITMA ASIA+ CITME 2018 and Yarn Expo 2018 autumn exhibition is overall learning experience. Both machinery and yarn ex- hibition co-current events happened first time in Shanghai, China. Yarn Expo, Shanghai organizer had maintained quality by look, feel and quality visitors across the world. Though this time few yarn expo exhib- itor are not satisfied, as they compared the show with the last editions which was always had with Inter-textile shanghai, Fabric event; few visitors/buyers are common for both the show. Regular cotton supplier and exporter had felt low demand, as they feeling fierce competition from other countries and Indian competitors. Visitors and Exhibitors expectation from this show is introduce and look for Innovative, Fancy yarn. Many first time exhibitors introduced their new fibers in the exhi- bition with new countries entry like France. ITMA ASIA + CITME 2018 , exhibition for textile machinery manufac- ture for Asian Market. Many exhibitors are not having real new tech- nology to display but they have process and customer service ERP sys- tem. Industry 4.0 in real sense implemented by Robotic assembly line with Machine operation by mobile application introduction. Machine is monitored, operated, maintained with cloud technology. Machinery manufacturer understood that Digitization is must to survive in global competitive world. Exhibition Visited by countries like Pakistan, Bangla- desh, India (mainly from Gujarat, lesser from South India.) Our Group who has Spinning unit’s owners visited few Industries in China which is rich and learning experience. Knowing China’s indus- try is always had a keen interest to Indian entrepreneur, all keenly ob- served the industry units for process/system implementation in their own factories. We wish India can be super power and surpass China in very near future with US- China Trade War Advantage. We wish you a Prosperous & Productive Hindu New Year..!! When I hear somebody sigh, “ Life is Hard,” I am always tempted to ask, “ Compared to What?” - Sydney Harris ’’
- 11. 11www.textilevaluechain.comNovember 2018 OVERVIEW OFITMA+CITME 2018 En route to the digital yarn factory “From Melt to Yarn, Fibers and Nonwovens – Bring it to Life” – is the motto under which the Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Segment will transform itself into a digital machin- ery and plant manufacturing company showcasing its power as one of the innovation leaders for the produc- tion of chemical fibers. En route to the digital yarn factory, technologies such as artificial intelligence, machine learning or innovative HMI (Human Machine Interface) solutions promise the bridg- ing between material and data flow– for customer value. These topics are also the central point of the “Oerlikon Innovation Forum” at which presentations in English and Chinese will be held several times a day for visitors of the exhibition booth. AIM4DTY: Automated detection of error cause The digital future solution AIM4DTY provides help with the identification of possible error causes in texturing machines to help reduce quality risks. The system recog- nizes and is being “trained” using trend charts and their respective errors. With the automated solution AIM4DTY the information is instantly available to customers, there- fore allowing them to immediately optimize the quality during running production. It also ensures that predictive maintenance is now a reality. Wiping robot with intelligent control system used for the cleaning of the spinnerets is automation Intelligent control system which connects machines and processes. The robot accesses the saved wiping intervals in an automated and safety-relevant manner. The advan- tages over the manual process are for example extended cleaning cycles, less silicon use, more production time, less operating costs as well as advantages for human re- sources and health management. World premiere: Staple FORCE S1100 : The Staple FORCE S1100 is a one-step plant, which spins, draws, crimps, cuts and bales in a single process step, produces small batch- es (up to 15 tons per day) and can be swiftly reconfigured for various requirements, including polymer, dyeand titer changes. Its process control system for easy operation is absolutely unique. PA6/66 sector : With the acquisition of the PE Poly- mer Engineering Plant Construction GmbH, based in Thuringia,Germany, Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Segment expanded its now completed polyamide process chainfor fibers and filaments. The now available and tested tech- nologies in the melt preparation process include the en- tire polyamide 6 polycondensation systems division and its PA6/66 co-polymer. According the CEO the Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Seg- ment already started establishing new ideas and mind- sets a few years ago, are working between disciplines, departments, areas and companies. An important step was the acquisition of the newly integrated partner AC- Automation who has substantiated know-how in large- scale automation, transport, packaging and warehouse logistics and end product automated quality control. “Together with our process competencies and digital data handling we not only want but will offer further innovative Industrie 4.0 solutions for our customers – all the way to the digitization of the complete process chain”, promises Georg Stausberg.
- 12. 12 www.textilevaluechain.com November2018 OVERVIEW OF ITMA+CITME 2018 Denim goes greener through the whole chain Prosperity Textile acting as a pioneer and choosing the first sustainable innovation in the weaving industry: the brand-new iSAVER™ by Itema. A new important partnership marks the path of Itema to- wards a greener future for the whole denim production chain. Prosperity Textile, one of the main denim produc- ers worldwide, has chosen for its new facility one of the most interesting and sustainable-oriented Itema tech- nologies, iSAVER™ equipped on the Itema R95002denim. Prosperity Textiles is, in fact, one of the early adopters of this new technology chosen for the new plant that the world-famous indigo fabrics producer will open in Viet- nam, and that will be exclusively equipped with the lat- est Itema weaving machine model, demonstrating once again its green, future-oriented approach. Thanks to its partnership with Itema, Prosperity Textiles makes again a step forward in terms of sustainable in- novation, as one of the first denim producers able to suc- cessfully turn - even the weaving production - green. iSAVER™: the ideal green tool for denim weaving This new technology, developed by ItemaLab™, the Itema Advanced Innovation Department, is able to completely eliminate the left-hand weft waste, allowing to insert the weft yarns in the fabric without the need of additional yarns. iSAVER™ significantly reduces raw material waste, leading to tangible benefits in terms of machine’s efficien- cy, cost reduction and energy saving. Just consider that the weaver will gain a minimum saving of € 2.000 per year per machine, and our planet will gain even more. In fact, for the first time in the weaving indus- try, a sustainable approach when choosing the weaving equipment is now possible. Thanks to iSAVER™, 1.000 Kg of cotton per machine per year – the 3% of the total raw materials - will be saved, thus avoiding the waste of 20 million liters of water, equivalent to 400.000 showers. Numbers are clear: the introduction of iSAVER™ clearly sets a new benchmark in terms of sustainability within denim fabric production. Furthermore, the iSAVER™ is one of the key features of the Itema R95002 denim, the rapier weaving machine born and designed to weave denim guaranteeing to weavers superior textile quality, outstanding user-friendliness and tangible energy and raw materials saving. A joint eco-driven path Itema, understanding very well the importance of saving resources and energy to drive the textile production in the direction of a more conscious manufacturing, focused its attention to develop breakthrough weaving solutions and in 2018 introduced to the market the iSAVER™, a rev- olutionary device dedicated specifically to denim fabrics able to eliminate the waste selvedge on the left-hand side of the fabric. This is one of the reasons-why Prosperity Textiles has chosen to adopt this extraordinary technology for its new facility. Today Prosperity Textiles is one of the main den-
- 13. 13www.textilevaluechain.comNovember 2018 im producersworldwide, counting 1,300 employees and 20 offices worldwide. Moreover, a second state-of-the-art denim mill will be inaugurated in Vietnam by the end of 2018. What makes Prosperity able to stand out on a global scale, is not simply its products high quality but the ability to conciliate flawless denim fabric production with a sus- tainability-oriented mindset that permeates every stage of their textile supply chain. Prosperity, indeed, adopted innovative green manu- facturing concepts through all stages of the company’s operations, from product development, raw materials procurement and processing, to natural resources and energy utilization including waste management. Prosper- ity’s denim production is based on the employment of best quality yarns available on the market, while still tar- geting the most sustainable sources, from BCI to organic, recycled cotton, and from Tencel™ Lyocell to Sustans™, in 2017, more than 20 million yards fabric sales from Pros- perity are with sustainable fibers inside. The introduction of eco-friendly dyeing and finishing practices allows the company to create beautiful indigo shades and performance denims, with less water and en- ergy consumption compared to the traditional systems. Last year, Prosperity produced 20% more fabrics than 2016, yet the water and electricity use and greenhouse gas emission was down by 11.5%, 7.9% and 5.4% respec- tively. In this continuous process of improvement and contri- bution to a greener industry and planet, plays a central role the recent renewal of the historic partnership and strategic alliance with Itema – the leading manufacturer of cutting-edge weaving solutions – which represents the natural evolution of a constant process of research for partners able to support Prosperity Textiles’ growth as a sustainable company. Up to now, all innovations and efforts done in this regard addressed the traditionally more polluting steps of the denim production. In fact, if the development of green technologies is nowadays spread in many fabric process- ing stages, such as finishing and dyeing, weaving was not yet capable to provide sustainable solutions to weavers. OVERVIEW OF ITMA+CITME 2018 In Shanghai, all Trützschler divisions exhibited current and new products on a 600 m² area. TD 10 The new Trützschler autoleveller draw frame ITMA ASIA marks the launch of the new Draw Frame TD 10. It features increased compactness and has a highly modern regulating system. This results in a significant in- crease in control dynamics and an improvement in sliver quality. Despite 20% less space requirement, it was possible to in- crease the filter once more. TC 15 Benchmark in productivity A whole range of individual measures ensure perfor- mance increases compared to the predecessor machine. In addition to high productivity, the 1.28 m wide Card TC 15 stands for increased sliver evenness and improved running behaviour. Trützschler will demonstrate the high flexibility with five different sliver coiling systems on the stand. TC 10 The most successful card in China Made in China – for China. The Card TC 10 is the card for the Chinese market. This Trützschler card in the tradi- tional working width of one metre has been specifically designed for the Chinese market. T-MOVE Space saving and increased efficiency The can filling station does more than just save space. The new moving head allows a can change at high delivery speeds. This improves card efficiency. T-MOVE is also designed for JUMBO CANS with 1,200 mm diameter. T-SCAN Five technolo- gies work hand in hand for highest separation rates In the Foreign Part Separator T-SCAN TS-T5, five detection technologies ensure an all-time high separation efficiency: ƒ F-module Detection of coloured parts ƒ G-module Detection of shiny parts ƒ P-module Detection of transparent an semi-transparent parts ƒ UV-module Detection of fluorescent parts ƒ LED-module Detection of smallest thread-shaped parts IDF-Vortex Short- ened preparation system for air-jet yarns In co-operation with the Japanese compa- ny Murata, the lead- ing manufacturer of air-jet spinning ma- chines, Trützschler has developed a new
- 14. 14 www.textilevaluechain.com November2018 sliver preparation technology. When processing viscose, two of three draw frame passages can be eliminated. This represents an enormous economic advantage. T-WIND Semi-automatic Surface Winder TWW-SD Robust master roll winders are used when the produc- tion of ready-for-sale rolls is decoupled from the nonwovens production. The two- stage configuration with downstream un- winding, slitting and winding increases process stability. The Surface Winder TWW-SD provides an appropriate solution for spunlace systems, for a variety of thermal bonding processes as well as for technical nonwovens. Winding of master rolls up to 1,800 mm diameter and system speeds up to 300 m/min can be realized GX1 The cylinder clothing that no longer requires grinding The new GX1 clothing has been specifically developed for all spinning processes in the area of cotton. Improved fibre guidance results in less short fibre content and significantly better nep separation. The clothing is basi- cally maintenance- free, but can also be ground when re- quired. NOVOTOP 30 The very special flat clothing The flat clothing NO- VOTOP 30 has been newly developed for the processing of coarse and/or dyed fibers and reclaimed fibers for rotor spinning. It is ideally suited for use with yarn counts below Ne 10 and realises high production speeds. The flat type NT 30 is available as MAGNOTOP and CLASSICTOP. OVERVIEW OF ITMA+CITME 2018 Just in time re- action and ac- tion: Digitized environmental solutions for your success Hans Wroblows- ki, Area Sales Di- rector and Head of Product Man- agement for Denim at Monforts, proposes some positive measures for keeping a step ahead in textile manufactur- ing with Industry 4.0. We are currently facing the biggest challenge of our times – what is now being referred to as the 4th Industrial Revo- lution. Now we are truly in the digital age, surrounded by smart technologies and permanent online solutions. With online finance and shopping, expert systems have been developed for optimizing internationally-linked businesses, along with business models for global pro- duction planning, in order to achieve the shortest possi- ble supply and delivery times. Challenges How should textile manufacturers respond to this situa- tion? At Monforts, we have a clear mission and are committed to investing in the digitization of our technology in or- der to help our customers respond to the fundamental challenges facing the textile industry today. These can constitute something of a vicious circle of demands and expectations as a result of: Fragmented process chains, Different time and production scales, Missing standards of communication interfaces, Small profit margins
- 15. 15www.textilevaluechain.comNovember 2018 The realityof low margins and low profits means that textile manufacturers are ultimately fighting for every production cent which can be saved. This can result in a reluctance to invest in new textile machinery, but manu- facturers really need to explore what additional value the latest technologies can deliver. The era of digitization is demanding new structures and new ways of thinking, in order to assume digital leadership. The key benefits the latest technologies can provide in- clude: • A reduction in the cost of energy sources. • A reduction in machinery production costs. • The sharing of process operators. • A reduction in machine downtime. • Optimised production planning New Horizons with Qualitex 800 The consolidation of the Monforts Qualitex 800 digital so- lution with the latest mechanical solution such as the Eco Applicator or Eco Line can be the basis for the efficient implementation of a range providing higher productivity and efficiency. The Qualitex 800 offers the operator more reliability, quicker access and therefore more benefit. The easy op- eration by use of the latest slider and dashboard functions with individual adaption to the operating states assures faster access to comprehensive recipe data and therefore enhanced ma- chine ability. Through its target-orient- ed and inte- grated digi- tal intranet/ internet-based Cloud solution, the aforemen- tioned just in time reaction and action can be achieved to ensure that supplier and customer will be always benefit from a re- trievable online information service OVERVIEW OF ITMA+CITME 2018 TEXTECHNO Herbert Stein GmbH & Co. KG (Germany) and their partner company LENZING INSTRUMENTS (Austria) introduce their automatic systems for testing all kind of fibres and yarns. Textechno’s BALEXPERT and SPINEXPERT, both parts of the new designed Fibre Classifying System FCS, determine the quality and spinnability of both, cotton- and synthetic fibres. The focus will be on the enhanced fibre bundle length and strength tester FIBROTEST, the Micronaire sta- tion FIBROFLOW, the trash and colour tester OPTOTEST, as well as the automatic fibre-length-, impurity and spin- nability tester MDTA 4. The fully-automatic capacitive evenness, count and ten- sile tester for yarns STATIMAT DS combines the three most important test methods for spun yarn. In the field of automatic single-fibre testing FAVIMAT+ is now featuring additional test methods incorporated in the equipment. A sample feed unit - AUTOFEED - reduces labour for preparation of the test specimen and introduc- tion into the test field to literally zero. Textechno’s automatic capacitive evenness tester for fila- ment yarn COVAMAT with its novel sensor design, auto- matic package changer and a high-speed yarn twister ful- fills all requirements for an effective and reliable quality control system. DYNAFIL ME+ is the all in one solution for automatic fila- ment yarn testing. This instrument has proved its excel- lent suitability for numerous applications like draw force testing of POY, crimp testing of DTY and BCF, or shrinkage testing of all kinds of yarns including monofilaments and ATY. For determining the number of interlaces Textechno has developed the interlace and interlace stability tester ITE- MAT+ TSI as the successor of the well-known ITEMAT by Enka Tecnica after taking over all rights on this instrument. Textechno establishes a new department for composite testing services. Be- sides testing basic fibre properties with FAVIMAT+, custom- ers can also examine the fibre/matrix adhe- sion with the FIMAT- EST system. The pro- cessing properties of yarns and rovings are determined by ROVINGTEST and the drapability of fabrics and NCFs for composites with DRAPETEST. Through our services you gain easy access to award winning testing technology. Please ask us.
- 16. 16 www.textilevaluechain.com November2018 SANTEX RIMAR GROUP successfully attended ITMA ASIA 2018 in Shanghai Cavitec presented CAVIMELT P+P LINE, the new hotmelt coating and laminating line with rotogravure system, per- fect for sportswear productions, developed to be highly productive, precise, operator friendly and cost effective. Sperotto Rimar presented the new surface finishing solu- tions: SOFTA – high speed brushing – and VELURA – high speed raising – for woven fabrics and knit. Smit is presenting the new GS980 F: the fastest free flight rapier machine for an outstanding terry quality. With seven different working widths, from 220 to 360 cm, SMIT GS980F is perfect for weaving terry towels or bulk terry, in one or several panels. To further strengthen the dialogue between East and West opened in 2017 with FUTURE TEXTILE ROAD event in Urumqi (Xinjiang), SANTEX RIMAR GROUP have signed a partnership project with DONGHUA UNIVERSITY – COL- LEGE OF TEXTILES to keep exploring the growth of the new textile industry and building strong relationships with international students to impact the textile indus- try further developments, in a cutting-edge dialogue be- tween mechatronics and technology, textile engineering and machine manufacturing, study and experience. Every year SANTEX RIMAR GROUP will award two among Donghua University – College of Textiles – best students with a scholarship and a training period at the headquar- ters based in Vicenza (Italy) – one of the most important Italian textile and fashion districts. STATUE OF UNITY NEWS The Statue of Unity is a statue of Indian statesman and founding father Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel (1875–1950) in the Narmada dis- trict of Gujarat, India. It currently holds the record for the world’s tallest statue, with a height of 182 metres (597 ft) or about four times as tall as the Statue of Liberty. Vallabhbhai Patel was one of the most prominent leaders of the In- dian independence movement, and the first Deputy Prime Minister of India. The statue is on a river-island facing the Narma- da Dam (also called as Sardar Sarovar dam) near Rajpi- pla, 100 kilometres southeast of the city of Vadodara. The monument and its surroundings occupy more than 2 hectares (4.9 acres), and are surrounded by a 12 km2 (4.6 sq mi; 3,000 acres) artificial lake. It was built by Larsen & Toubro, who received the con- tract for Rs.29.89 billion (US$420 million) for the design, construction and maintenance in October 2014. The con- struction was started on 31 October 2014 and completed in mid-October 2018. It was designed by Indian sculptor Ram V. Sutar and was dedicated by Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi on 31 October 2018, the 143rd anniversary of Patel’s birth. OVERVIEW OF ITMA+CITME 2018
- 17. 17www.textilevaluechain.comNovember 2018 SUSTAINABLE FIBRE Thebasic necessities of life are the human survival four aspects. Along with society ‘s progress and devel- opment of material civilization development , people ‘s value on clothing are keep on increasing . The fashion industry therefore has been gone through generations of revolution in order to meet general’s expectation. In recent years , there are few aspects that regards as important for different kinds of clothing which are follows: y Material multiplication . y Light and easy wearing cuts . y Which are stylish and trendy . y Design to suitable for wearing in specific occasions . Especially in past two years , International and domestic markets have paid a lot of attention to the development of textile that are eco-friendly . The definition of eco-friendly textile are as below: y Raw material is recyclable and reusable . y Non-damage to natural environment during manu- facturing and processing . y Safe to customers . y Bio-degradable when discarded . The development enhances better quality of life , guar- antees human’s health and environment –friendly , which without doubt was a watershed in the fashion industry revolution .Some of the animal Hair fibres satisfying the above criteria is already in use in textile industries like Camel Hair ,Mohair ,Cashmere and Alpaca . But there are also few hair fibres identified by the FTC which are used for specialized purposes and for a limited extent . These are as follows : 1. Cow hair –obtained from the hides of slaughtered cows .It is used for felts and coarse rugs and cushions . 2. Horsehair –obtained primarily from horses ‘ manes and tails . It is used as a shape retainer in suits and coats and for stuffing in mattresses and upholstery . 3. Rabbit hair –obtained from the common rabbit . It is used for felt in hats . The fur of animals such as the rabbit has long been used as textile fibre. There are two types of fur fibre : a. an outer coat of long ,spiky fibres acts as a protec tive covering . b. an inner coat of soft , fine fibres which keeps the animal warm . Angora rabbit- hair (often described erroneously as ‘ angora wool ‘) has been in widespread use in European countries for a century or more . Angora is the hair of the Angora rabbit produced in Eu- rope ,Chile ,China and the United States .The Angora rab- bit is a variety of domestic rabbit for its long , soft hair .The Angora is one of the oldest types of domestic rabbit ,originating in Ankara ,Turkey , along with the Angora cat and Angora goat . The rabbits were popular pets with French royalty in the mid 1700 s , and spread to other parts of Europe by the end of the century .They first appeared in the United States in the early 1900 s . Production There are bred largely for their long angora wool , which may be removed by shearing ,combing , or plucking ( gently pulling loose wool) . The Angora rabbit produc- es long ,fine , silky white hair that is clipped or combed every 3 to 4 months . It is harvested up to four times a year by plucking or shearing . The finest angora comes from France,Italy , and Japan .The Angora rabbit is also raised in many other parts of the world , including the United States .Fibre yield and quality vary with the rabbit and its health and breed, and ranges from 8 to 30 OZ . Of the four breeds of Angora rabbits , the two most common types are English and French .English Angoras produce a fine silky fibre , French Angoras produce a coarser fibre . Rabbits of the angora breed are adorned with “ fur “ growths of wool on the ears and the entire face except above the nose , and front feet , along with their thick body , and wool .They are gentle in nature , but they are not recommended for those who do not groom their animals . Their fur is very thick and needs to be groomed a lot .The French Angora is one of the largest Angora breeds at 7 ½ to 10 lbs ,with a commercial body type .It differs from the English and German Angora in that it possesses a clean face and front feet with only minor tuft- ing on the rear legs . The rabbits are clipped every three months ; the fibres are 7.5 cm (3 inch) long .The outer ‘ guard hairs ‘ are separated from the fine fur by blowing the fibres in a stream of air . Both hair and fine fur are used for making textiles , the former giving strength and beauty to the fabric and latter warmth and softness . The two types of fibres are mixed in such proportions as to provide the desired effect . CLOTHING MADE FROM RABBIT HAIR FIBRE
- 18. 18 www.textilevaluechain.com November2018 SUSTAINABLE FIBRE Structure and Properties Angora wool , the speciality hair fibre obtained from An- gora rabbit has special characteristics like excellent whiteness , superb softness , lightness and warmth . The fibre ‘s smooth , silky texture makes it difficult to spin and the fibres tend to slip out of the yarn and shed from the fabric ,nevertheless , the fibre is desired for its texture , warmth ,light weight and pure white colour , al- though it is sometimes dyed in light shades . The white or naturally coloured fibre is very fine ( 13 microns ) , fluffy ,soft , slippery , and fairly long . Angora does not take dye well and usually has a lighter colour than other fibres with which it is blended . It has great economic value in woolen textile industry for manufacture of speciality fabrics . Having special char- acteristics and rare availability, it is a very costly fibre .The products of angora wool have high demand in elite group of consumers . The normal angora rabbit hair used is of 14 - 16 micron . The dimensions of rabbit fi- bres vary over a wide range . In general , the fine fibres are less than 20 mm ( ¾ in) , whereas the guard hairs are 50-60 mm in staple length . The cross-section also varies such as the fine fur fibres are round ,oval or rectangular . The coarser guard hairs are often dumb-bell shaped , or in the form of a sharp- edged oval . The scales on the surface of fine fur fibres are fairly uniform in shape . They often extend half-way round the fibre . Scales on the guard hairs have serrated edges , and the edges often run slantwise across the fibre . Both types of fibres have thick medullas , which contain many pockets of air . The keratin of fur fibres is probably a mixture of several closely related proteins .The chemical behaviour of these fibres is generally similar to that of wool and other animal fibres . Water is absorbed less readily by rabbit fibres than it is by wool . Hot water tends to soften or plasticize the fibres . Alkalis dissolve fur fibres . Before dyeing with acid dyes angora rabbit hair is given a pretreatment using sodium hydroxide with concentra- tion of 1.5 % w/v for 15 minutes at 25 deg c . It gives good swelling , sufficient fibre strength , better dye uptake and good fastness properties . Blending of Rabbit Hair Fibre It is often blended with wool to facilitate spinning be- cause the slick fibre has poor cohesiveness . However ,like other speciality fibres , rabbit hairs also poses dif- ficulty when processed alone due to its lesser scale height and absence of inter fibre cohesion . It is believed that while in use , part of this fibre drops away from the products . Generally blending of two fibre helps in exploiting the outstanding positive attributes of each fibre and at the same time offers effective means of minimizing the nega- tive characteristic of individual components . And so to increase the fibre cohesion rabbit hair is utilized mainly in blends with other fibres . The blending of rabbit hair imparts excellent effect to the product . Angora rabbit hair can be blended with wool/cotton and spun in cotton and woolen spinning systems . Latest it is blended with viscose fibre and spun in the cotton spinning system . The most popular blend is Angora rabbit hair /viscose in 20/80 blend ratio . The blending of Angora rabbit hair leads to the improvement of yarn properties suitable for the garment production . Uses of Rabbit Hair Fibre y Angora rabbit hair is used primarily for items such as sweaters , mittens , baby clothes , and millinery . It is also used in apparel such as sweaters and suitings and in knitting yarn . y If a label states “ rabbit hair “ , this means the fibre is from a common rabbit , not an Angora rabbit . y Rabbit hair is often used to make felt for hats , but is too short to make into yarns for woven or knitted fabrics . y Rabbit hair and fur are used very largely for making felts and for knitted goods such as cardigans , gloves and berets . For knitted goods they are usually belnd- ed with wool before spinning . y Rabbit fibre fabrics have an attractive appearance and a soft luxurious handle . They wash like wool , and tend to felt very easily . This property is made use of in the manufacture of ‘felts ‘. y Rabbit fibre has got good scope in India . Vardhman and Oswal group can mix rabbit hair with wool and acrylic fibre and make yarn for sweaters and cardigans and export the products with a special premium price y Similarly Worsted units like Raymonds, Jayashree , Dig- jam , Reliance also can try blending rabbit hair with wool and make premium safari suits , blazers etc and export to American and European countries. DR. N.N.MAHAPATRA BUSINESS HEAD (DYES) SHREE PUSHKAR CHEMICALS & FERTILISERS LTD.
- 19. 19www.textilevaluechain.comNovember 2018 WEAVING UPDATE Textileparks in Hinganghat have heralded prosperity to those involved and the growth is here to stay. The twelfth five-year plan by the Government of India brought much joy to the textile industry by introducing the Scheme for Integrated Textile Parks. This translates into triggered textile growth across the country, especial- ly in cotton growing region like ours. The Scheme for Integrated Textile Parks (SITP) was launched in 2005 to provide the industry with state of the art world-class infrastructure facilities for setting up their textile units. The scheme would facilitate textile units to meet international environmental and social standards. The park scheme is being promoted by Ministry of Textiles in line with Prime Minister Mr Narendra Modi’s scheme for integrated and cluster approach modeled on lines with China. Around 20 parks have been approved under the new scheme, with around four in the state of Maharash- tra. This scheme has recently been modified to promote new investments into textiles by first time entrepreneurs. The benefit of this model being short lead time in setting up units, with common buildings and utilities being set up by the SPV, for efficient use. SITP would create new parks of international standards at potential growth centers. Each Integrated Textile Park (ITP) under the scheme would normally have 50 units. The number of entrepreneurs and the resultant investments in each ITP could vary from project to project. However, aggregate investment in land, factory buildings and Plant & Machinery by the entrepreneurs in a Park shall be at- least twice the cost of common infrastructure proposed for the Park. Units and processes functional at Hinganghat ITP Gin- ning, twisting and doubling, Spinning, Knitting, Techni- cal Textile, Weaving (48 looms), Processing, Garmenting, Fiber and Yarn Dyeing Project Rationale: Maharashtra is the growing textile re- gion in the country with prime focus in skill development in textile sector. The State has prominent presence in spinning, technical textile and garmenting segment. The Park envisages an integrated facility for about 11 units along with warping and sizing. It has had a long history in textiles and Mumbai was the original home of India’s textile mills. Sholapur, Ichalkaran- ji, Malegaon and Bhiwandi are some of the cities known for the textile industry today. Hinganghat was historically a centre of the Indian cotton trade. The Entrepreneurs in this region have aggressive intention to upgrade the technology of spinning, ginning, technical textile and garmenting with support technolo- gies. By using skilled force to integrate the forward link in the textile value chain, a group of entrepreneurs, having long standing experience in the textile sector, have come for- ward to implement an integrated textile manufacturing complex with support facilities and infrastructure with in- ternational standards. Project Objectives To establish an integrated textile park at Hinganghat, Wardha District in Maharashtra State with state-of-the-art manufacturing facilities for Spinning, Ginning, Technical Textile, Yarn twisting and doubling, Knitting, Garmenting and Fibre, and Yarn Dyeing for domestic and export mar- kets. Nature of Entrepreneurs Most of the promoters of the Park belong to families who have been engaged in spinning and weaving for decades. They have established fragmented small factories for spinning of yarn and weaving of fabrics and have busi- ness links all over the country for marketing. The entre- preneurs have to set up modern spinning and weaving units with the required backward linkages and forward in- tegration into garmenting units. Except traditional textile business families, entrepreneurs interested in foraying into the textile business are welcome to setup their units at the equipped and convenient textile parks. Operational and Financial Assessment of the Entrepre- neurs A detailed operational and financial assessment of the entrepreneurs has been carried out with a view to ascer- taining their textile/other business experience as well as their financial strength. The promoters are aggressive entrepreneurs and existing players in the textile industry and have sufficient experi- ence of running large scale businesses. All the promot- ers/entrepreneurs have the financial resources to invest in the project. Why operate from ITP? y Get access to reasonable value of land, common infra- structure and common utilities y Plug and play model for investment with minimum starting time for new units y Common infrastructure/utilities for roads, drainage, water supply, electricity, ETP, STP, workers and staff colony, warehousing facility etc. REWEAVINGTHE FABRIC OFVIDARBHA’S TEXTILE INDUSTRY
- 20. 20 www.textilevaluechain.com November2018 WEAVING UPDATE y Reduced capital requirement ranging from 50% to 75% owing to availability of required common facilities and infrastructure y 45-70% capital subsidy on the investment depending upon the project y Power cost to be approximately INR 4.5 or less y All government compliance and liasoning like pollu- tion, boiler, labour, factory inspector, electrical etc available in-house y SGST refund in the range of 60%-80% y Advantage of FSI= 1.00 for all buildings y Assistance for banking facilities, recruitment, training and development, quality assurance, marketing etc. y Reimbursement on training for workers up to INR 10,000 per worker along with dedicated training facil- ity. y Access to common infrastructure like effluent treat- ment plant, telecom and IT Infra, sewage treatment, research labs, staff quarters, storage godowns and ad- ministration Going the Cluster Way The current government is advocating the cluster ap- proach to industrial development and regional growth. On this backdrop, the textile park will prove to be instru- mental in bringing all of textile industries together and create an influential establishment. Advantage’s of “Vidarbha” y “Vidarbha is expected to get much-needed boost with a fresh investment of Rs.3,000 crore likely in textile sector through 26 projects. These new ventures have a potential to generate 3,500 new jobs,” y The state textile ministry had announced a new policy around two years ago in which an additional 10 per cent subsidy is given to investors coming to cotton growing regions of Vidarbha and Marathwada. y To be Located in Central India having advantage of Lo- gistic hub and potential for further growth. y Ample availability of manpower in the region. y Cotton production contribution of Vidarbha is about 66% of state of Maharashtra Production, hence essay availability of Raw Material on economical Price is ad- ditional advantage. ANJAN BANERJEE VP, Weaving Gimatex Industries Pvt. Ltd (Wani Unit) GRASIM INDUSTRIES LIMITED (UNIT HARIHAR POLYFIBERS) WINS GOLDEN PEACOCK AWARD FOR SUSTAINABILITY 2018 Grasim Industries Limited (Unit Harihar Polyfibers), a flag- ship company of USD 44.3 billion Aditya Birla Group has been named as the Winner of the Prestigious ‘Golden Peacock Award for Sustainability 2018’ at the “18th An- nual London Global Convention on Corporate Govern- ance & Sustainability” and ‘Global Business Meet’ . Mr. Dilip Gaur, Managing Director, Grasim Industries said, “The Golden Peacock Award is a testament to our vision to build sustainable businesses, capable of consistently delivering best in class environmental performance, un- derpinned by responsible stewardship philosophy.” The Golden Peacock Award is well recognised. This year Justice (Dr.) Arijit Pasayat, former Judge, Supreme Court NEWS of India, chaired the panel of judges. “We are proud of being the recipient of this coveted award. It is indeed an important milestone in our Sustain- ability Journey”, said Mr. Ajay Sardana, Chief Sustainability Officer of Pulp & Fibre Business of Grasim Industries Ltd. Harihar Polyfibers Unit of Grasim, which was accorded this distinction, produces rayon grade pulp. Harihar Pol- yfibers Unit began operations with an initial capacity of 32 KTPA in 1972-73; the plant today produces 70 KTPA of pulp a year from eucalyptus wood. About 90% of energy used is derived from renewable resources and chemical recovery is around 98%.
- 21. 21www.textilevaluechain.comNovember 2018 TECHNICAL TEXTILE DEVELOPMENTOF HIGH STRENGTH COST EFFECTIVE SEAMLESSTECHNICAL CIRCULAR FABRIC FROM HEAVY DENIER MULTIFILAMENTYARNS In modern times with emerging contribution of Technical Textiles in all spheres of human life, the Geo-textiles have opened up new areas in civil engineering. The technol- ogy is gradually upgrading and regions which were earlier unworkable are now being developed. However, in some applications like Geo-textile Encased Columns for con- struction of roads in extremely soft soils where tubular structure of the fabric is formed by stitching; the seams due to its lower strength and different fabric properties have become a major concern for its implementation in real structures as it adversely affects the structure. Due to which there has been limited development in this field. In this backdrop an affordable and locally available High Strength technical seamless circular fabric from high ten- sile strength synthetic yarns developed using simple cir- cular weaving technology will be ideal for such and other applications where circular Geo-textile is required espe- cially for Indian sub-region. Introduction One of the sectors of textile industry that has received significant attention across the world is Technical Textiles. Technical Textiles are defined as textile materials and products used primarily for their technical performance and functional properties. Unlike conventional textiles where aesthetic value is one of the key usage consid- erations, Technical Textiles are used on account of their specific physical and functional properties. Technical Tex- tiles are used individually as a stand-alone product, or as a component part of another product to improve the performance of the product. Technical Textiles are also referred to as industrial textiles, functional textiles, per- formance textiles or engineering textiles. Technical Textile has become a major segment globally because of several advantages like functional require- ment, health and safety, cost effectiveness, durability, high strength etc. It is a large and growing sector and sup- ports a vast array of other industries. The global growth rates of technical textiles are about 4% per year greater than the growth of home and apparel textiles, which are growing at a rate of 1% per year. Technical textiles are segregated into 12 major segments In recent times Geo-textile Encased Columns have be- come most sought after technology the world over for construction of civil structures on soft grounds. However, for this structures tubular fabric is required [Figure1-Geo- textile Encase Columns [GEC] for construction of roads in soft soils].The advantages of tubular Geo-textiles, drawback of present circular fabric structure, the new seamless Circular fabric development and its benefits is discussed here. Figure1: Geo-textile Encased Columns [GEC] Geo-textile Encase Columns Large areas of India are covered with soft clay depos- its, especially coastal regions. As a result of economic growth, many infrastructure projects, such as roadway embankments, are being constructed in areas with weak soil deposits. Many challenging problems have been en- countered with regard to construction on soft soil depos- its including bearing capacity issues, excessive deforma- tion, and slope instability. The instability or deep-seated failure of a roadway embankment constructed on a soft foundation has become a serious issue for geotechnical engineers. Several ground improvement techniques have been widely implemented to avoid deep-seated failures in weak soils including sand compaction columns, stone columns, and deep mixed columns. The problems due to soft soils are low bearing capacity, excessive settlement and deep seated foundation failure [Figure 2] GEC GEC LOAD TEXTILE Soft Soil Hard Ground Failure wedge Embankment Firm Soil
- 22. 22 www.textilevaluechain.com November2018 TECHNICAL TEXTILE The stone column, or granular pile technique, has been widely adopted to improve the soft soils through the in- clusion of granular columns which have a stiffness and drainage capability that is far higher than those of the surrounding weak soil. In addition to the above benefits, this technique is characterized by the ease of construc- tion. Stone columns have been widely used since 1970s to strengthen a foundation soil carrying heavy ironworks. Since a stone column (see Figure 3a)) derives its bearing capacity from the passive resistance offered by the na- tive surrounding soil, the inclusion of stone columns in very soft soils may not be sufficient to the desired level of improvement. When embedded in soft clay, stone col- umns may bulge due to lack of confinement offered by the surrounding soft soil. Furthermore, the soft clay may enter the voids between granular material of column to cause clogging and reduce the permeability of granular columns for drainage. Therefore, Geo-textile encased stone columns (as shown in Figure 3b) are proposed as a convenient technique for improving soft soils that have un-drained shear strengths lower than 15 kPa. Encasing the stone column within Geo-textiles made up of woven high strength synthetic yarns increases the stiffness of the column and thereby increases its load capacity and no clogging of soft soil with granular stone column when compared with the ordinary stone columns. Figure 3 (a) Ordinary stone column; (b) Geo-textile encased stone column Figure 3: Illustration of advantages of Geo-textile encased columns Figure 4.0: Installation of Geo-textile Encased Stone Columns [GEC] The installation of Geo-textile encased stone columns involves driving a steel casing with a closed end tip into the ground to create a hole. A Geo-textile tube is then in- serted inside the steel casing and the granular material is then backfilled. The tip of the casing is opened as the steel casing is withdrawn from the soil with vibration to densify the infill material as shown in figure 4.0. A. The Geo-textiles Natural fibers such as flax, jute and ramie can be used for most temporary application where, for instance, soil erosion is the problem. The Geo-textiles made from these natural polymers help to prevent the erosion of soils by allowing vegetative growth and their subsequent root es- tablishment. Once the purpose is served, the Geo-textile material gradually disintegrates into the soil. In most me- dium to long term applications as in Geo-textile Encased Columns, Geo-tubes/bags where physical and chemical durability and dimensional stabilities are of prime con- cern, synthetic fibers are preferred. There are currently at least four synthetic polymers considered suitable for this purpose; they include: polypropylene, polyester, polyeth- ylene and polyvinyl chloride. Woven Geo-textiles form the major component of all Geo-textile products. The manufacturing process involves weaving of high tensile strength [≥ 6 GPD] and low elon- gation yarns [<12-14%] into fabrics. Yarns of Polyester, Polypropylene, and nylon in multi-filaments /monofila- ment/tape forms are widely used in weaving. Multifila- ment fabrics are characterized by their high strength and resistance to stretch, these properties being enhanced as the tenacity of the yarn increases. Multifilament yarns are also more flexible than monofilaments, a property which facilitates weaving of the tightest and most efficient of all woven fabrics. Filament yarns of linear density 1100 dtex and 2200 dtex are predominantly used in plain weave constructions for Geo-textiles. Wide width looms are spe- cifically used for producing Geo-textiles. Woven Geo-textiles are mainly used for: ƒ Reinforcement of Unpaved Roadways, Paved Road- ways, etc ƒ Separation applications in, Unpaved Roadways, Paved Roadways, Sediment Control, etc.
- 23. 23www.textilevaluechain.comNovember 2018 TECHNICAL TEXTILE ƒAs components in geo-composites ƒ Geo-textile Encased Columns [GEC] for Construction of roads ƒ Geo-tubes /Geo-bags for control of soil erosion in river banks/coastal areas B. Disadvantage of Present Tubular Geo-textiles In majority of applications flat fabric suffices the require- ment. However, in some special cases tubular structure of the Geo-textile is required for example in GEC, Geo- tubes, Geo-bags; which is formed by stitching fabric end to end [Figure-5]. Seam is always a problem in a stitched circular fabric as it introduces a weak point in the fabric compared to other parts. The functional properties also changes in the seam part of the fabric. During application all parts of the fabric come under same stress and always there are chances of failure at Seam. The Seam failure can be highly dangerous to the structure. Figure: 5 Tubular Geo-textiles with seam The Loading tests performed on Geo-textile encased sand columns in both air and surrounded with weak soil showed that the Geo-textile sleeve typically failed at a seam. This finding supports the practice of using seam- less encasements in real structures [Figure 6]. Figure: 6 Failure of Tubular Geo-textiles at seam C. Overcoming the shortcomings of present Tubular Geo- textiles In tubular Geo-textile the fabric is stitched end to end to make a circular form, however the seam makes the fabric weak and ineffectual for the purpose. In an attempt to resolve the selvedge related issues in tubular Geo-textiles SASMIRA, Mumbai have developed ‘High Strength Cost effective Seamless Technical Circular Fabric from Heavy Denier Polyester Multifilament Yarns’ which will give sig- nificant advantage. It can be used for Geo-textile Encased Columns in construction of roads in soft soils [Figure 1] and also in Geo-bags& Geo-tubes for control of soil ero- sion in river banks/coastal areas where stitched fabric is used [Figure 7]. SASMIRA has filed patent for this de- velopment [Application No.E-2/2502/2017-MUM Dated 15/11/2017]. At present there is no manufacturer for this kind of Geo-textiles in India Figure: 7 Geo-tube Geo-bags D.Development of High Strength Seamless Fabric with Polyester Multi-filament Yarns It is pertinent to mention that Tubular Geo-textile was at- tempted on conventional shuttle loom on double cloth principle. However, due to coarse and low twist synthetic Multifilament Yarns, there was thread distortion and fila- ment rupture leading to reduction in desired properties in selvedge region due to use of strong temples as com- pared to body [Figure-8]. Figure: 8 weaving fault of Tubular Fabric at selvedge Therefore, to avoid the selvedge related problems in the fabric circular weaving principle was adopted. Circular Loom is a weaving machine in which two or more shuttles move simultaneously in a circle, laying weft threads in a section of warp thread, forming a shed. They are used in the production of hoses and bags. The warps rise and fall with each shuttle passage, unlike the common practice of lifting all of them at once [Figure.9]. Here the bobbins are mounted on the creel which serves as warp and weft is inserted by rotating shuttles in the multiple plain shed formed by the Heddle belts connected to cams. The circu-
- 24. 24 www.textilevaluechain.com November2018 TECHNICAL TEXTILE lar fabric is then pulled by take up roller and finally wound on winder. Figure: 9 Circular Weaving Machine Advantages of Circular loom y Circular Weaving Principal - Simple technology y Multiple pick insertion – High Productivity y No Selvedges - Not possible on modern shuttle-less looms y Economical as many steps of conventional weaving are not required like re-winding, warping, frequent gaiting etc. The specifications of the fabric for use in Geo-textile En- cased Columns [GEC] were decided like yarn Tenacity, count, EPI, PPI and TPM of warp and weft. After several trials the Proposed Seamless fabric was developed on the Circular Loom after modifications/precautions as under: ƒ Controlled warp let-off ƒ Smooth warp passage ƒ Application of anti-static oil ƒ Optimum twist application ƒ No cuts/worn out tensioners and heddles ƒ Suitable Take up roller cloth for heavy fabric ƒ Correct rating of take up & batch roller motor to take the load ƒ Compact wound weft bobbin ƒ Clear Shed Formation ƒ Ceramic guides at important points ƒ Frequent cleaning of machines with compressed air ƒ Strong spreader arrangement Figure:10 Polyester MFY High Strength Seamless Fabric on Circular Weaving Machine The test results of 400mm diameter Seamless Circular fabric developed with high tenacity Polyester Multi-fila- ment Yarns [MFY] for Geo-textile Encased Columns [GEC] are as under: From above it can be inferred that the developed sample meets the necessary specifications. Benefits of developed Seamless Tubular Geo-textile for stone columns: y The seamless circular structure with Multi-Filament Yarns capable of being developed on existing circular weaving looms with locally fabricated modifications y Reinforcement sleeve diameters between 0.4 m and 1.0 m can be made y The developed fabric is technically in compliance with recommended parameters y The indigenous Circular looms are costing from Rs. 15- 45 lacs as per diameter. Whereas, imported shuttle weaving machines capable of making tubular struc- ture on double cloth principle costing about Rs. 3-4 Crores. The conventional technology will further add to final cost due to higher conversion charges. y High Denier yarn can be woven easily [ up-to 20000 dn & more ] y High GSM fabric can be developed [ ≥ 1000 GSM ] y High Tensile strength fabric possible [≥400 kN/m] y Affordable Cost of circular fabric for Indian mark y Suitable for soft soils with cu < 15 kN/m² y Almost all settlement takes place within construction period y Adjacent buildings are unaffected by settlement y System is fully loadable immediately after completion y High embankments can be built in short time with no Sr. No. Parameter Test Standard Unit Values Recommended Achieved Value 1. Weight/Sq mts ASTM D 5261-10 GSM -- 972 2. Tensile Strength [MD] ENISO 10319 Kn/m 100-110 112.0 3. Elongation at maximum load [MD] ENISO 10319 % 7- 13 14 4. Tensile Strength [CD] ENISO 10319 Kn/m 300 - 330 375.9 5. Elongation at maximum load [CD] ENISO 10319 % 7 - 13 16 6. Water Permeability ASTM D4491-16 Lt/sq mt/sec 10-20 13.5 7. Static Puncture test ENISO 12236-06 kN 7-12 14.7 8. Dynamic Perforation ENISO 13433 mm 15-20 No Hole Formation
- 25. 25www.textilevaluechain.comNovember 2018 TECHNICAL TEXTILE NEWS dangerof bearing failure y System is highly adaptable to local conditions and loads y No need to dispose of waste or contaminated spoil (where displacement method is used) y No adverse impact on groundwater flow y Underlying aquifers protected by base seal y Economical use of site space and lower excavation, disposal and imported material costs y Reduction in construction time and cost Conclusion The tubular Geo-textile formed by stitching fabric end to end has a major disadvantage due to the seam being weak and thus cannot be used where heavy loads are act- ing constantly. The seamless fabric will be ideal for such applications. The Geo-textile Encased Column (GEC) made with seamless fabric will be ideal as a foundation solution for earthwork structures built on weak sub-soils. This pile- like load-carrying system is a quick, cost-effective method of providing a foundation for embankments on ground with low bearing capacity. The particularity of the seamless GEC system is that the outwardly directed radial horizontal stresses in the col- umns are counteracted not only by the inwardly acting pressure of the soft soil, but also by the radial resistance of the Geo-textile casing. The circumferential tensile forc- es generated in the casing provide radial support to the columns and safeguard the equilibrium of the system, thereby allowing its use even in very soft soils. This fabric also acts as filtration-stable mega-drains, which speed up the settlement and consolidation process. Potential later settlement is thus either prevented or can be offset by means of temporary cover fill, as required by the particu- lar project. The circular weaving technology developed for making seamless circular technical fabric is simple and can be easily adopted. The cost of modifications is also very economical. Further, with locally availability of technically compliant High Strength Circular Seamless fabric at affordable rates; the development of infrastruc- ture projects is ensured to boom. Acknowledgement The authors wish to acknowledge the Ministry of Textiles, Government of India for financial support for the execu- tion of this project. The authors also acknowledge M/s Kusumgar Corporates, Mumbai and Dr. M.K Talukdar for partial funding and technical support for this novel devel- opment. References 1. Stability Analysis of Geo-textile Encased Sand Columns- Dr. Shaymaa Kadhim, University of Technology, Baghdad, 2016 2. Handbook of Technical Textiles- A R Horrocks and S C Anand Published by Woodhead Publishing Limited in as- sociation with The Textile Institute , England 3. Geo-synthetic Encasement for Stronger and Stiffer Stone Columns, Dr. K Rajagopal, Department of Civil Engi- neering, IIT Madras, Chennai DR. U.K. GANGOPADHYAY Executive Director, {SASMIRA} & SANJAY SAINI, Scientist {SASMIRA} The retailers said same-store sales grew by 8-15% during this festive season. Future Group and Fabindia said their sales were among the best in 3 years. India’s top apparel retail chains Shoppers Stop, Reliance Trends, Lifestyle, Future Group, Arvind Brands, Max and Fabindia said sales this festive season grew in double dig- its, quashing the impact of online discounts and overcom- ing a poor performance last time due to the introduction of GST. The retailers said same-store sales — a key per- formance indicator — grew by 8-15% during this festive season. Future Group and Fabindia said their sales were among the best in three years. In the offline category, the buoyant performance of fashion chains was also in stark contrast to sales of smartphones and televisions, which were hit badly this year by online discounting. Some of- fline retailers are offering discounts on certain bill sizes or gifts, which are pushing up sales, executives said. “Con- sumers are buying in stores since they can touch and feel products and have realised that online stores either sell very old stock or fakes and marketplaces do not like to take ownership of those,” said Future Retail joint MD Rakesh Biyani. APPAREL RETAILERS LIKE SHOPPERS STOP, RELIANCE TRENDS RECORD DOUBLE DIGIT GROWTHTHIS FES- TIVE SEASON.
- 26. 26 www.textilevaluechain.com November2018 MACHINERY UPDATE Textile industry is resource intensive and is often criti- cized for its environmental performance. Textile process- es rely heavily on water, energy, and synthetic dyes and chemicals. Where it is noted that this Industry is consum- ing 1 trillion gallons of water, 33 trillion gallons of oil, and 20 billion pounds of chemicals -(Cotton Incorporated). Where the Machines play a vital role in controlling the consumption of the above natural resources as well as controlling the pollution of air, water, environment & ecological aspects; and also conservation of energy, lubri- cants, dyes, chemicals, etc. Manufacturing technology is not what it used to be a dec- ade ago. Today’s increasingly automated and software driven industries have reduced human intervention to pressing only a few buttons in some cases. The applica- tion of advanced technologies in manufacturing such as nanotechnology, cloud computing, the Internet of Things (IoT) is changing the face of manufacturing in ways un- imaginable a few decades ago. In addition to cutting the costs, these technologies create speed, precision, effi- ciency and flexibility for manufacturing companies. It’s no secret that OEMs are looking to build more “intel- ligence” into mobile and industrial machines. The goal is to make the equipment they sell more productive and efficient, safer, and easier to operate and maintain. Fur- ther marrying electronic controls and software with hy- draulics, pneumatics and mechanical systems equating to lower fuel consumption, lower emissions, faster cycle times, safer operation, easy-to-access data metrics and condition. Equally important, the basis of competition is shifting to- ward delivering excellence in service and parts manage- ment. The digital revolution is now breaching the walls of manufacturing as it continues to disrupt media, finance, consumer products, healthcare, and other sectors. Indeed, the explosion in data and new computing capa- bilities along with advances in other areas such as artifi- cial intelligence, automation and robotics, additive tech- nology, and human-machine interaction—are unleashing innovations that will change the nature of manufacturing itself. Industry and academic leaders agree that digital manu- facturing technologies will transform every link in the manufacturing value chain from research and develop- ment, supply chain, and factory operations to marketing, sales, and serice. Digital connectivity among designers, managers, work- ers, consumers, and physical industrial assets will unlock enormous value and change the manufacturing land- scape forever. Consider traditional car manufacturers and Uber, which are both at the highest level in the business of moving people around. Car makers meet that need on the floors of factories and showrooms, using a century of manufacturing experi- ence. Uber meets people’s transportation needs not with steel, glass, rubber, and sales people but with data, matching individual riders and vehicles via smart phones. Barely five years into its existence, it is valued at about $50 bil- lion. Uber’s data, algorithms, and enormous growth pros- pects have already made it more valuable than all of the physical assets, intellectual property, and brand names of some of the world’s biggest car manufacturers. Further with the application of 3D printing technology it is now possible to produce almost any component using metal, plastic, mixed materials and even human tissue. Presently Indian production of textile machines is 1.2 bil- lion USD against 2.7 billion USD market size India Exports 0.5 billion USD and Imports 2.1 billion USD. This Industry has a huge supply chain of Ginning, Spinning, Weaving & its Preparatory, Wet Processing, Garment, Ap- parel and Fashion. As the field of the subject is very vast the content of this article is restricted to the Technological Development in the design aspects of Weaving & Weaving Preparatory machines and their Lubrication systems to grow green. Lubricants and Lubrication plays a very vital role in this Industry considering variety of machines are working with different speeds, loads, under different en- vironments of humidity, temperature, chemicals, fumes, steam, fluff, etc. and accordingly a remarkable develop- ment have been taken place in the grades and properties of lubricants as well as its application system. Weaving Loom Shed While noise pollution is the main concern in a Weaving shed, while the discharge of water with chemicals in siz- ing is a headache in the weaving preparatory sector. In the looms, shuttle picking motions which is supposed to be the heart of the loom and so the noise producing mo- tion has been replaced by various lighter medium tech- nologies like projectile, rapier, water and air-jets. [Fig-1 & 1(a)]. Shuttle of about half kg. weight was considered to be the heaviest carrier of the weft, consuming highest energy and maximum travel time. It is now replaced with GROW GREEN WITH SMARTER & EASYTO MAINTAIN TEXTILE MACHINES
- 27. 27www.textilevaluechain.comNovember 2018 MACHINERY UPDATE lighteror no weight and faster mediums. 1&1(a) Shuttle, Projectile, Rapier, Water and Air-jet heads Further the replacement of plastic/leather material used as a shock absorbent by a Zama Buffer and Hydraulic Dampers [(Fig-2 & 2(a)] and also introduction of Special Weltac Oil have considerably reduced noise due to bang- ing of picking stick and picking nose with picking bowl, further enhancing the life of these spares. 2 & 2 (a) Zama Buffer and Hydraulic Dampers The crank beat up motion, being additionally noise pro- ducing, is now converted to cam motions. [Fig-3 & 3 (a)]. The basic principle of Common Drive is shifted to Individ- ual drive and at the same time introduction of compact and effective trapezoid belts replacing the conventional flat, v-belts, resulted in reduction of speed losses due to slippages, and lead to effective loom stoppage. 3 &3 (a) Crank Beat- up motion and Cam motion. The functioning of Secondary Motions like Take-up and Let-off through mechanical linkages controlled by one point Tappet motion is now separately controlled through Servo motors thus executing the action very fast and fur- ther saving lubricants and electrical power, further pre- serving noise at the lowest level. The lengthy linkage of Cam, roller and levers working on frictional principle as a driving motion in the Shedding As- sembly is replaced by a direct drive through a one piece cam of steel in oil bath [Fig-4 & 4(a)] and levers having a positive drive to the heald frames, by providing all these assemblies outside the loom at one side thus resulting to be User Friendly to the operative and also reducing wear and tear, downtime for lubrication and manual interven- tion. 4 & 4(a) Conventional Shedding Assembly and One piece Cam of Steel in Oil bath Further, open oil holes are converted to oil baths/oil res- ervoirs [Fig-5 & 5 (a)] and self lubricated bearings, which apart from reducing the consumption and contamination of lubricants also helps in reducing the heat generated due to friction created among the high speed spares, thus further reduces the machine downtime and human inter- vention. 5 & 5 (a) Conventional loom with Open Oil holes and Developed Looms with Oil baths/Oil Reservoirs The introduction of Super speed Shuttleless looms have demanded an effective lubricants and their application systems as in Projectile Shuttleless loom where high vis- cosity oil does not centrifuges away but remain on fast moving chain and avoids transfer of heat generated by chain on to projectile; while in Rapier looms force circula- tion lubrication system is effective at all assemblies; and in Air-jet looms the Oil Circulating system with filters help in sustaining the status of lubricants inherently.
- 28. 28 www.textilevaluechain.com November2018 MACHINERY UPDATE Weaving Preparatory Section The developments in attending the broken thread manu- ally on conventional common drive winding machine to individual spindle driven with a knotting and splicing sys- tems have remarkably increased the productivity, prod- uct quality, wear and tear of spares due to idle spindle running, lubricants and proved to be User-friendly. The incidences of costly Bakelite drums getting damaged on the mechanically operated systems on the conventional machines due to sharp free falling of the cradle over the drum have been controlled by a cradle damping unit on the developed machines with a high performance lubri- cants resulting in a smooth and steady descending of the cradle over the drum. [Fig-6 & 6(a)] 6 & 6(a) Cradle damping unit on the developed machines with high performance Lubricants With the introduction of the pneumatically controlled hy- draulic circulatory system over the Developed Warping machines have resulted in the effective braking system [Fig-7 & 7 (a)] of the guide rollers and warping beams run- ning at very high speeds and had also made a provision of automatically loading and unloading of heavy and huge warping beams which is unsafe and laborious as done manually on the conventional machines. 7 & 7(a) Pneumatically controlled Hydraulic Circulatory system over the Developed Warping machines Thus while concluding we can say that the introduction of Technological Development in the design aspects of Weaving & Weaving Preparatory machines and their Lu- brication systems have shown a remarkable reduction in the annual consumption of lubricants in comparison to those by conventional textile machines as given in table below, thus contribution to the National gain and GDP of the Country. Winding machines Warping machines Sizing machines Wea Conventional Developed Conventional Develope d Conventional Developed Conv Oil(Ltrsinlakhs) 0.07 0.05 4.75 0.30 3.01 0.08 355 Grease (Kgs in lakhs) 0.05 0.03 0.09 0.06 1.24 0.05 23 Winding machines Warping machines Sizing machines Weaving Looms Conventional Developed Conventional Develope d Conventional Developed Conventional Developed Oil(Ltrsinlakhs) 0.07 0.05 4.75 0.30 3.01 0.08 355 45 Grease (Kgs in lakhs) 0.05 0.03 0.09 0.06 1.24 0.05 23 5 N. D. MHATRE Director General (Tech), ITAMMA
- 29. 29www.textilevaluechain.comNovember 2018 GLOBAL FOCUS IMPORTANCEOF CONTROVERSIAL RUSSIAN MISSILE SYSTEM S-400? AND WHY EVERYBODY WANTS IT? The system is an upgrade to the S-300, which Syria re- cently purchased, with potential clients such as India and Turkey. The Vostok-2018 war games in eastern Siberia last month marked Russia’s biggest military exercise in more than 30 years, with about 300,000 Russian, Chinese and Mongo- lian troops taking part. More than just an exercise, the war games were a pub- lic relations opportunity to showcase military hardware, Russia’s second-biggest source of income after oil. During Vostok-2018, Russia showed off the S-400 sur- face-to-air missile, one of the country’s most advanced and marketable weapons systems in recent years. The S-400 is a massive upgrade to the S-300, its predeces- sor which was recently sent to Syria. Russian S-400 Triumph medium-range and long-range surface-to-air missile systems Because of its capabilities, several countries including Saudi Arabia, Turkey, India and Qatar have said they are willing to buy the S-400. China already bought this. Several countries including Saudi Arabia, Turkey, India and Qatarhave said they are willing to buy the S-400. Almost every government that announced it was plan- ning to buy the system was threatened with some kind of diplomatic retaliation from the US, NATO or adversaries. The reason for this blowback, according to several experts is not only because the S-400 is technologically advanced, it also poses a potential risk for long-standing alliances. The S-400 is among the most advanced air defence sys- tems available, on par with the best the West has to of- fer. Its radars and other sensors, as well as its missiles, cover an extensive area - the radar has a range of at least 600km for surveillance, and its missiles have ranges of up to 400km. It’s precise and it manages to track a very large number of potential targets, including stealth targets. Other advantages are its modular setup and high mobil- ity, meaning it can be set up, fired and moved within min- utes. The S-400 is among the most advanced air defence systems available, on par with the best the West has to offer. It’s intended to be a one-size-fits-all missile system. It can be configured with long-range, semi long-range, medium- range and even short-range weapons systems, depend- ing on how the individual user wishes to configure the S-400. It’s very rugged, it’s adaptable and it’s a road-mobile sys- tem, something many countries are seeking to evolve to. Turkey, a NATO member, is one of the most significant potential buyers of the S-400. But Turkey’s interest in the Russian missile system spooked its Western NATO allies, for technical and political reasons. In the technological sense, the S-400 would certainly be a step forward [for Turkey], but it’s not necessarily in the best interest of NATO to have that weapons system in- tegrated within its broader architecture. The S-400 could lead to a potentially dangerous situation. When you look at the Russian S-400 system, especially in
- 30. 30 www.textilevaluechain.com November2018 GLOBAL FOCUS a NATO structure, there’s a scale of difficulty when inte- grating it into the bigger defence system. If you take it as a very benign situation, the simplest sce- nario is that its data might not be able to be incorporated into the defensive architecture that is currently used by NATO. That’s probably the best worst-case scenario. NATO relies heavily on several systems working together in a larger network. What kind of contracts would be in place with Russian technicians taking care of the S-400, for example, would Russian maintenance personnel have access to [NATO] data? The worst-case scenario is that there might be vulnerabili- ties associated with that system that could be exploited by a potential adversary. Plugging it in could potentially actively compromise your own defensive network. For India, Saudi Arabia and Qatar, who are not part of an alliance such as NATO, buying a system like the S-400 would lead to fewer technological issues, but they could risk diplomatic and economic repercussions from the US. In 2017, the US implemented the Countering America’s Adversaries Sanctions Act(CAATSA) in a response to al- leged Russian interference in the 2016 US presidential elections and military involvement in both Ukraine and Syria. CAATSA allows the US to act against individuals, compa- nies or countries that are “disturbing international secu- rity”. The US is looking to isolate Russia following on from the events in Ukraine and beyond However, India decided earlier this week to buy the weap- ons system. India places top priority on ties with Russia. In today’s fast-changing world, our relationship assumes height- ened importance. India Prime Minister Narendra Modi told told Russia President Vladimir Putin after they signed the $5bn deal. The chances of the US following through on its threats of sanctions are slim, especially for coun- tries like India or Saudi Arabia. The sanctions are not au- tomatic and exemptions are possible if in the national interest of the US. Sanctions are actually unlikely as India and others are too important as military and political partners for the US. Even limited sanctions would probably make those coun- tries quite angry - angry enough to hurt US interests. But even if economic sanctions are unlikely, upsetting the US could lead to a diplomatic spat. There is also a diplomatic issue here, as the agreement to sell sensitive technology to a country implies a wider alignment of a range of political issues, and that is why the US is looking to isolate Russia following on from the events in Ukraine and beyond. For the US, these purchas- es from more than just a military threat - they are about countering Russia’s involvement in global conflicts, but also about maintaining long-standing US diplomatic rela- tions and preventing Russia receiving hard currency for its equipment. The US has been working at finding ways to strengthen its diplomatic responses on the world stage to countries that violate the global rules-based order. So why would Turkey, India or any other country risk dip- lomatic relations with the US? India does not like to necessarily buy from one vendor and be overly dependent on one country, so from an In- dian perspective geopolitically it does make sense to buy some systems from Russia and some from the US. India also has a long-standing relationship as far as buying hardware from Russia, so they have a lot of experience with this equipment. Another motive is sharing military technology, something the US is not eager to do, unlike to Russia. Russia is willing to supply S-400 to probably about anyone and to share technology to some extent which may be advantage and disadvantage too? MR. ARVIND SINHA - CEO M/s. Business Advisors Group, Mumbai
- 31. 31www.textilevaluechain.comNovember 2018 EVENT UPDATE ITMAASIA + CITME ENJOYS ANOTHER SUCCESSFUL PRESENTATION Strong attendance affirms combined show’s industry- leading position in the region ITMA ASIA + CITME 2018, the region’s leading textile ma- chinery exhibition, ended successfully after five days of exciting product demonstrations and business network- ing. The sixth combined exhibition welcomed visitor ship of over 100,000 from 116 countries and regions, with an in- crease of 10 per cent from domestic visitors compared to the 2016 show. About 20 per cent of the visitors came from outside of China. Of the overseas participants, Indian visitors top the list, reflecting the strong growth of its textile industry. Follow- ing closely were trade visitors from Japan, China Taiwan, Korea and Bangladesh. Mr Fritz P. Mayer, President of CEMATEX, said: “Response to the combined show has been very strong. There was a larger pool of qualified buyers and most of our exhibitors were able to achieve their business objectives. We are de- lighted with the positive outcome from our latest event.” Mr Wang Shutian, President of China Textile Machinery Association (CTMA), added: “The strong turnout of visitors to the combined show reinforces the reputation of ITMA ASIA + CITME as the most effective business platform in China for the industry. We shall continue to do our best to present the best technologies from both east and west to Chinese and Asian buyers.” The total exhibition area at ITMA ASIA + CITME 2018 grossed 180,000 square metres and spanned seven halls. A total of 1,733 exhibitors from 28 countries and regions demonstrated their latest technological products that fo- cus on automation and sustainable production. Following the successful staging of the 2018 edition, the next ITMA ASIA + CITME will be held in October 2020 at the National Exhibition and Convention Centre (NECC) in Shanghai. The combined show is owned by CEMATEX, together with its Chinese partners – the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT (CCPIT-Tex), China Textile Machinery Association (CTMA) and China International Exhibition Centre Group Corporation (CIEC). It is organised by Beijing Textile Ma- chinery International Exhibition Co Ltd and co-organised by ITMA Services. For more information, please visit www.itmaasia.com or www.citme.com.cn.
- 32. 32 www.textilevaluechain.com November2018 EVENT UPDATE YARN EXPO AUTUMN 2018 More exhibitors than ever joined Yarn Expo Autumn 2018, which was held concurrently with ITMA ASIA + CIT- ME from 15 – 17 October at the National Exhibition Con- vention Centre (Shanghai). 501 suppliers from 14 coun- tries & regions participated, with new countries to the show including France. This international diversification, as well as strong domestic numbers, demonstrated Yarn Expo’s increasing recognition as a top show in the indus- try. What’s more, almost 80% of exhibitors were returning from successful past editions, showing their support of the fair.“Although Yarn Expo was unable to be held con- currently with Intertextile Apparel this year, more indus- try players recognise this fair as a top show for yarn and this is why the turnout remained very strong,” explained Ms Wendy Wen, Senior General Manager of Messe Frank- furt (HK). “Our product range was more diverse than ever as exhibitors increasingly see China as the ideal market to introduce their latest innovations. For example, this year we’ve welcomed premium French linen and advanced Italian chemical fibres. Yarn Expo is a platform that prom- ises to gather all of the top suppliers under one roof for genuine buyers.” With demand rising within the Chinese market for fancy & specialty yarns, suitable for stand-out fashion trends, the trade potential for this product cate- gory was high. Business for eco-friendly and natural yarns was also reported to remain steady this edition, reflected by the India Pavilion which increased in size by around 40% this year. Exhibitor feedback “We are using Yarn Expo as a platform for brand expo- sure. We have a very good feeling about the demand for premium products in China. Yarn Expo has many more quality visitors in comparison to other fairs. We have had a very positive experience and will certainly return.” Mr Hervé Denoyelle, Business Development Manager, Sa- filin, France “ The participation in the India Pavilion has been quite good this year, all of the leading Indian companies are here and we are occupying much more space. It’s important to be here, the fair reflects market demand, and everybody comes here twice a year. We see a lot of potential grow- ing in China.” Dr Siddhartha Rajagopal, Executive Director, Texprocil (India Pavilion organisers) Buyer Opinion Yarn Expo has a good reputation in the textile yarn indus- try, buyers are becoming more internationally diversified each year, which can meet my purchasing needs. Part- ners and visitors at Yarn Expo each year can meet and exchange here to strengthen their business relationships. From this perspective, Yarn Expo plays a role as both a link and bond.” Mr Zhanfeng Chen, Purchasing Manager, Zhejiang Xinhai Textiles Co., Ltd, China Yarn Expo Autumn is Asia’s leading trade platform for the yarn and fibre industry, with quality suppliers from around the world showcasing natural and blended yarns including cotton, wool, flax, and man-made fibres and yarns, as well as specialty products including elastic, fancy and blended yarns. Last year’s Autumn Edition attracted 493 exhibitors from 13 countries and regions, and 17,185 trade buyers from 84 countries & regions. The fair is organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd and the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT. For further information, please visit: www.yarn-expo-autumn.com. To find out more about all Messe Frankfurt textile fairs worldwide, please visit: www.texpertise-network.com. Yarn Expo Autumn wraps up with 501 exhibitors and over 19,000 visitors
- 33. 33www.textilevaluechain.comNovember 2018 EVENT UPDATE “SILVERJUBILEE CELEBRATION” (KUSHALTEXTILE INSTITUTE) Kushal Textile Institute (KTI), eminent entrepreneurs training institute in synthetic textile weaving sector, based at Surat, completed 25 years of their establishment on Friday, 19th October 2018. To celebrate this remarkable achievement they had organized a ceremonial function to felicitate supporters of their success over the period and few knowledge sharing lectures to acquaint and re- fresh attendees with Textile industry in Surat and world as whole. The Silver Jubilee Celebration function was steered by MOC Mrs. Maharukh Chichgar, Mr. Tarun Chashmawala and Mr. Prashant Modi, who with their wit and wisdom entertained all guests throughout the program. Mrs. Chichgar started the function with prayer. Later she invited Mr. Minesh V. Adhvaryu and Mrs. Malini M. Adh- varyu, Directors of KTI, to lead all esteemed guests on the dais. All dignitaries enlightened the occasion with lamp lighting. Mr. Surendrabhai N. Jariwala, Founder – Yoganand Group of Industries, was the Chief Guest of the event. Mr. Kishorchandra N. Jariwala, Direcor – Quality Textile, was the Guest of Honour. Mr. Sharad Tandon, CEO – STandon Consulting, was the Key Note Speaker on the special occa- sion. Mr. Rajnikant Bachkaniwala (President – WISTI), Mr. Amrishbhai Bhatt (Editor – Textile Graph), Mr. C. Y. Bhatt (Dy. Commissioner - SMC) and Mr. Ketan Jariwala (Direc- tor – Quality Textiles) graced the event as Special Invitees. Mr. Hemal Sakkai (President - KNOT) was also one of the dignitaries on the dais. Mr. Minesh Adhvaryu welcomed all dignitaries, invited guests, students of KTI and members of KNOT to the event, in his signature style welcome address. Mr. Suren- drabhai Jariwala was felicitated and welcomed to the event with bouquet of flowers, a memento and he was also honoured by presenting a shawl by Mr. Adhvaryu & Mrs. Adhvaryu. Mr. Kishorchandra Jariwala was also felici- tated and welcomed to the event with bouquet of flow- ers, a memento and honoured by presenting a shawl by Mr. Adhvaryu & Mrs. Adhvaryu. Mr. Sharad Tandon was welcomed and felicitated with bouquet of flowers and a memento by Mr. Kushal Adhvaryu (Executive Director – DigiEn InfoSoft LLP). All other dignitaries on dais were also felicitated and welcomed by presenting bouquets of flowers and mementos. Following this, Mr. Minesh Adhvaryu spoke about histo- ry of KTI. It was established in the year 1993, as Kushal Weaving & Designing Class, at an experimental small scale to educate industrialist and entrepreneurs who were already in the business and wanted to learn techno- functional details of the synthetic textile weaving busi- ness. From the very start itself, KTI received very warm welcoming response from the industry. Many interested industrialists started attending KTI for their benefit from the beginning itself. Mr. Minesh Adhvaryu said he is fortunate to have Mr. Surendrabhai Jariwala as Chief Guest of this event, as in the year 1993 Mr. Surendrabhai Jariwala himself did the opening ceremony of the institute. Starting from then, KTI has educated more than 1600 entrepreneurs. Mr. Minesh Adhvaryu concluded his speech with a small documen- tary filmed on Surat Textiles and role of KTI in it, shot by famous director Mr. Mehul Surti. Kushal Network Of Textile (KNOT), alumni association of KTI was founded in year 2009. Mr. Hemal Sakkai President of KNOT briefed all guests about KNOT. This month KNOT entered into 10th year of its journey. So far KNOT has or-
- 34. 34 www.textilevaluechain.com November2018 EVENT UPDATE ganized 62 different events on different topics ranging from development of Textile industry especially in Surat, technical seminars, management symposiums to person- al development and entertainment. KNOT was grateful to have had many renowned personalities of world on its platform. KNOT has been continuously working for bet- terment of its members as well as Surat Textile industry. After this, the pillars and supporters in the success of KTI were felicitated by dignitaries on the dais. There were around 25 persons felicitated with mementos by KTI for their continued and valued support to the institute throughout its journey. All these guests felt honoured and were quite happy for their recognised support. On this auspicious event, there was Curtain Raiser event of DigiEn InfoSoft LLP, an IT company working in the fields of digitization of enterprises and Information Security of data critical organizations. Mr. Kushal M. Adhvaryu is Ex- ecutive Director of DigiEn InfoSoft LLP. Partners and their families were called upon the dais for the curtain raiser with dignitaries on the dais. Mr. Surendrabhai Jariwala unveiled brochure of DigiEn and all dignitaries present on dais held brochures in their hands to mark the event with their gesture. Mr. Kushal Adhvaryu thanked all dignitaries on the dais for making the moment successful for DigiEn. He also welcomed and thanked all guests in the audience. He briefed about DigiEn and its working. DigiEn basically works for process digitization solutions for SMEs. Flagship segment of DigiEn – One Umbrella Solution basically has integrated ERP with other features which cover an organi- zation as whole and a single software solution runs the organization. He explained benefits of such solutions and processes of it. Mr. Ketan Jariwala congratulated KTI for its achievement and recalled his experiences with dear friend Mr. Minesh Adhvaryu. Mr. Amrishbhai Bhatt who also started his journey of Textile Graph around same period as KTI, re- called similarities in work of both organizations and their achievements. He also congratulated KTI for the success. Mr. Rajnikant Bachkaniwala shared his views on Surat Textile Industry in present times and its requirements for prospering further in his speech. Mr. C. Y. Bhatt focussed on building up good career and his times with Mr. Minesh Adhvaryu in his speech. Mr. Sharad Tandon (CEO, Standon Consultancy) in his keynote address on “Textile Industry – Kal, Aaj Aur Kal”, said that its not just technology that people need to change. It’s the mindset of people to do business in dif- ferent ways with novel ideas also require much attention. Industrialists need to understand their customers rather than following trends. Customers have different require- ments from different manufacturers, the association with customers teach in which direction production should be made and how attitude of entrepreneurs should be to- wards these changes. Technology can be an enforcer in this process but its not the main requirement of it. Mr. Kishorchandra Jariwala, Guest of Honour of the event, presented scenario of Surat Textile industry in his speech. With his knowledge of the industry, it will not be exag- geration to call him encyclopaedia of the industry. He presented many facts and figures in his speech relevant to the industry and encouraged entrepreneurs to venture into business with right type of machinery and skills. Mr. Surendrabhai Jariwala, Chief Guest of the event, said that Mr. Minesh Adhvaryu is like his son only and he saw Mr. Adhvaryu progressing throughout his life with dedi- cation. Mr. Adhvaryu’s perfectionist nature made him achieve this success and fulfil requirements of Surat Tex- tile Industry. Finally, Mr. Minesh Adhvaryu thanked all dignitaries, guests, students and other agencies for making the event grand success and attending the event whole heartedly. He thanked his late parents and family members for their continued support throughout. He finally thanked his wife Mrs. Malini Adhvaryu for standing by him in all goods and bads of professional as well as personal life and en- couraging him to fulfil the dream. Later, all guests completed the event with national an- them.
- 35. 35www.textilevaluechain.comNovember 2018 Ms. SmritiZubin Irani, Union Textile Minister, stated that India held a special place in Global Textile Trade as the 2nd largest textile exporter in the world. Today, cotton yarn & fabric exports account for over 23% of India’s to- tal textiles and apparel exports. She emphasized that The Cotton Textiles Export Promotion Council (TEXPROCIL) should also look at propagating the growth in the MSME sector, as a third of its members fall under the MSME category. This has become more relevant in the light of the announcement made by the Prime Minister on 2nd November 2018 for the MSME sector. She further stat- ed that it was for the first time that banking institutions were directed to give in-principle approvals to loans in 59 minutes. She urged the industry to take the benefit of ATUF scheme, as provided under the special package of Rs. 6,000 crore for the made-ups and garments sector. She assured that the Ministry of Textiles would provide all types of support to the cotton textile sector in increasing exports. She was addressing the gathering as the Chief Guest of TEXPROCIL Export Awards 2017 2018 in a glittering func- tion held on 3rd November, 2018 at Mumbai. The Cotton Textiles Export Promotion Council (TEXPRO- CIL) presented 56 awards in 32 categories for the best export performance during 2017-2018. Out of the 36 companies receiving the awards in various categories, 7 companies received the prestigious export award for the first time. Another novel feature of this year’s awards was the introduction of the award for the highest employ- ment generated during fiscal 2017-18, including women employment. Shri Ujwal Lahoti, Chairman of the TEXPROCIL stated that the ongoing trade war between the US and China would possibly open up new opportunities for the cotton tex- tile exports from India and we should be ready to ex- plore them. The Government was also in the process of putting in place alternate schemes to promote exports which would improve the competitiveness of the prod- ucts. These alternate schemes were expected to be WTO compatible. The alternate scheme would replace earlier schemes like MEIS etc. and it was believed that the level of support would not in anyways be lowered. TEXPROCIL has proposed to include cotton yarn under the MEIS. The Cotton yarn is a value-added product with a lot of value addition taking place within the country. The MEIS for fabrics also needed to be increased from 2% to 4%. TEXPROCIL would also request the Government to in- clude Cotton yarn and fabrics under the ROSL scheme as these products also face the incidence of state levies as in the case of Made ups and Garments. The ROSL scheme currently covered only state levies. However, there are also central levies, the burden of which the exporters have to bear. To make exports competitive, these central levies also needed to be refunded under a new scheme. In the current year (April to September 2018), exports of textiles and clothing have declined by 3% with exports of readymade garments registering a steep decline of 16%. However, in this backdrop, it is heartening to note that exports of cotton textiles have grown by 26.8% in 2018-19 (April to September 2018). During this period, exports of cotton textiles (raw cotton, yarn, fabrics and made- ups) touched US$ 6235 million as compared to US$ 4917 mil- lion in 2017-18. While proposing Vote of Thanks, Dr. K.V. Srinivasan, Vice Chairman- TEXPROCIL, stated that although many issues related with the sector have been addressed, there are still a few, that require attention and intervention of the Government. Shri Ujwal Lahoti welcomed the package for the MSME sector. Interest subvention on pre-shipment and post- shipment finance for exports by MSMEs has been in- creased from 3% to 5%. These measures would provide much needed support and encouragement to the MSME sector, which contributed significantly to the textiles ex- ports. Under the package, GST- registered MSMEs would get 2% interest rebate on incremental loan up to Rs. 1 crore. COTTONTEXTILE EXPORT GROWS BY 26% DURING APRILTO SEPTEMBER 2018 EVENT UPDATE
- 36. 36 www.textilevaluechain.com November2018 BRAND FOCUS USTER QUALITY ALL THE WAY: FROM FIBER TO FABRIC Extended product range underlines USTER’s global lead- ership, as integration of EVS is completed. Quality solutions across the full range of primary textile production – from fiber to finished fabric – are now of- fered by Uster Technologies, following the successful integration of automated inspection systems from EVS. This expansion of capability means USTER is unique as the world’s only supplier of high-tech instruments for quality monitoring and management in spinning, weav- ing, knitting, finishing and nonwovens. The three EVS systems for vision-based fabric inspection are now pre- sented under USTER branding. On April 25 this year, Uster Technologies announced the successful acquisition of Elbit Vision Systems (EVS), a world-leading high-technology supplier for automated vision inspection in the textile industry. Since then, both organizations have been working to integrate EVS into the USTER Group. This phase was completed on October 1, when EVS started operations under the name of Uster Technologies Ltd., based in Caesarea, Israel. The EVS fabric inspection systems are now presented under the USTER brand, with new names: USTER® EVS Q-BAR (fabric quality monitoring system), USTER® EVS FABRIQ VISION (fabric quality assurance system) and USTER® EVS FABRIQ SHADE (fabric shade optimization system). They also have a new look – the distinctive and award-winning dark-red and grey USTER design – con- firming the identity of the fabric inspection systems at a glance. Think Quality for fabrics Automated inspection from USTER delivers major ben- efits for fabric producers. The three solutions provide both quality assurance and optimization of fabric yield in the final product. The high-tech inspection technol- ogy means fabric producers depend less on human judgment and can produce consistent, reliable quality. USTER® fabric inspection brings the Think Quality™ ap- proach to fabric production. In the mill, the USTER approach starts with the princi- ple of avoiding off-quality at the earliest possible stage. Here, the USTER® EVS Q-BAR detects faults during man- ufacturing, preventing long-running defects. This early control reduces material losses and removes the need for manual inspection after production. It’s the basis for constant and reliable quality, enhancing the mill‘s market competitiveness. For optimum quality, a consistently high rate of defect detection is required. USTER® EVS FABRIQ VISION en- sures reliable monitoring, using automated control during intermediate and final inspection – eradicating the need for manual inspection. The system’s ability to capture any visible defects allows fabric yield to be opti- mized and prevents claims. For dyed fabrics, color consistency is vital – from begin- ning to end and from side to side of a roll, as well as be- tween different rolls of the same lot. USTER® EVS FABRIQ SHADE monitors shade variation in almost any process where color is critical. It allows fabric producers to deliver a constant shade in the end product, preventing second quality and keeping customers satisfied. USTER® EVS FABRIQ VISION and USTER® EVS FABRIQ SHADE also provide a number of options for improv- ing process efficiency, while also optimizing fabric yield. Features such as the infrared marker, the cutting-table control and the laser pointer underline the superior tech- nology of USTER® systems. Smart automation, process optimization and user-friendliness all lead to the goal of managing a textile mill with quality in mind. Perfect match USTER is the world’s only supplier of quality solutions for the textile industry from fiber to fabric. With EVS, USTER strengthens its portfolio in process monitoring and qual- ity management for weaving, knitting, finishing, and non- wovens. The perfect match of products is underlined by the fit of two companies holding leading roles in their fields, both dedicated to high-tech and driven by inno- vation. They also share the basic business goals: trans- parency in quality, through measuring and monitoring intermediate and final products. Their joint conviction is that automated quality control for objective assessment is crucial to textile businesses success. The inherent dedication to quality – another common ideal for EVS and USTER – is more valuable than ever in today’s competitive market. Customers expect unique products, at the right quality and free from unacceptable defects, every time. The combination of data from the spinning process, and on fiber, yarn and fabric quality enables fact-based decisions to achieve constant quality and improve efficiency and productivity. “The integration of EVS into the USTER Group is recognized as a synerget- ic acquisition adding value to USTER’s offer of expertise and services. Additionally EVS is for us an opportunity to explore business in additional textile fields,” says Thom- as Nasiou, Uster Technologies CEO.
- 37. 37www.textilevaluechain.comNovember 2018 BRAND FOCUS THEGLOBAL LANGUAGE OF QUALITY GETS APPY New era For the first time, USTER® STATISTICS is now offered in an app format – meeting the increasingly mobile require- ments of the industry and the world. For this new era, the knowledge base and data in the app are portable and quickly accessible any time, even if no internet connec- tion is available. The USTER® STATISTICS 2018 app is ready to download now – for free – from the usual app stores. The easy-to- use concept of the STATISTICS app offers useful search mechanisms with customizable settings. Favorites – in- dividual filters can be stored to recall frequently-used benchmarks. All information – charts, tables and inter- active tables as well as processing data – can be sent or printed, enabling direct communication between busi- ness partners via the STATISTICS app. The app serves us- ers in 11 different languages and the built-in FAQ offers immediate support – which is continuously extended by the addition of new answers. An outstanding feature of USTER® STATISTICS 2018 is a virtually seamless blended yarn range. Users can enter their chosen blend ratio in 1% steps. A graph relating to the input value is then selected in the background. This fulfills requests by many users for more blended yarn op- tions in USTER® STATISTICS. Uster Technologies enters a new level of superlatives with USTER® STATISTICS 2018. The sheer number of diagrams illustrates the variety and diversity of yarns on the market today. The newly-released USTER® STATISTICS includes new quality characteristics, extended yarn count ranges and simply more yarn types – illustrated in nearly 4,000 graphs, with quality data on numerous fibers, yarns and processes. What began in 1957 as three simple tables has grown to an immense volume of data – all organized into a unique dataset to serve the textile industry on an even more advanced level. Trends The fact that USTER has been measuring and analyzing quality data for fibers, slivers and yarns for six decades allows unique analysis. For example: yarn evenness for cotton ring yarns has remained stable since 1997 and no further significant improvements have been made in this sector – including well-established ring spinning machines, which lately don’t feature innovative changes. The figure clearly shows the development over the years. Uster Technologies doesn’t expect further improvements in evenness from ring spinning in the future – and there is also hardly no potential to further increase yarn even- ness. The new USTER® NEWS BULLETIN No. 51 covers more trends in more detail under the title `USTER® STATISTICS 2018 – The industry’s quality language enters a new di- mension´. (Free download available at www.uster.com/ unb51.) Readers will also find the section on `What’s New´ in USTER® STATISTICS 2018 very informative. Outlook The basic steps for the future are now in place, providing the established benchmarking data in a mobile app and cloud-based. This is the foundation for introducing new data and features to USTER® STATISTICS faster than ever before. At the USTER laboratories in China and Switzerland, thou- sands of fibers and yarns have been tested tirelessly and the data processed for USTER® STATISTICS 2018. These lab teams will continue their efforts, ensuring that USTER® STATISTICS remain the essential benchmarks for comparing key quality characteristics along the entire val- ue chain, from raw fiber through sliver and roving to the final yarn and beyond. The commitment into the future is to offer yarn producers, weavers, knitters, yarn trad- ers and retailers the essential framework to specify and obtain the quality they need. Even more importantly, due to the globalization of textile trade, USTER® STATISTICS enables all users to speak ‘the global language of quality’ – needing no translation and easily understood by every- one. USTER of- fers animated videos for USTER® STA- TISTICS users. Eight easy-to- understand clips explain the essentials of USTER® S T A T I S T I C S and are pub- lished on
- 38. 38 www.textilevaluechain.com November2018 ASSOCIATION NEWS Smt. Smriti Zubin Irani unveils “Fabric of Unity” at Apparel House, Gurugram as part of AEPC Unity Day celebrations Gurugram: In celebration of unveiling of the ‘Statue of Unity’ at Gujarat on 31 October, 2018. AEPC had organ- ized “Fabric of Unity”, an event to celebrate Indian Tex- tiles, an embodiment of National integrity of the country. The event was graced by Smt. Smriti Zubin Irani, Honor- able Union Minister of Textiles, Govt. of India at Apparel House, Sector 44, Gurugram and Shri HKL Magu, Chair- man, AEPC. EC Members of AEPC, Officials from Ministry of Textiles and Senior representatives from the Textiles Councils and Associations, Representatives from brands, ETI, ATDC students, NGOs working in this sector were also present at the event. Rashtriya Ekta Diwas is observed every year across India on 31 October to commemorate the birth anniversary of the Iron man of India Sardar Vallabhai Patel. Observance of this day provides an opportunity to re-affirm the inher- ent strength and resilience of our nation to withstand ac- tual and potential threats to unity, integrity and security of our country. Speaking at the event Shri HKL Magu, Chairman, AEPC said “Indian textiles have played an important role in the Indian freedom movement and what can be a better ex- ample of Unity in diversity than the Indian textile heritage. The Fabric of Unity is an event to celebrate this. Father of the nation Mahatma Gandhi regarded Khadi as the mate- rial embodiment of an ideal’ that represented freedom on one hand and a feeling of self-reliance and economic self- sufficiency on the other. This year happens to be AEPC’s 40th year of service for promoting Apparel exports around the world. We feel proud to be working on some very important initiatives to promote inclusion and sustainable apparel eco system. In the words of our Honorable Prime Minister, Sardar Patel formulated solutions one by one, weaving the warp and weft of unity on the axis of a single thread.” AEPC cel- ebrates this day to reaffirm our belief in the strength of Indian Textiles to bring together the most diverse cultures and traditions of India” The event saw the Unveiling Fabric of Unity, taking of the Unity Pledge and Unity march from Apparel House. Congratulating the AEPC team after unveiling the Fabric of Unity, Smt. Smriti Zubin Irani, Minister of Textiles said that,“ AEPC has organized this Fabric of Unity event in which industry, workers, and volunteers took the pledge to work for the betterment of the nation . In continuation to this spirit of the Unity Pledge - to contribute to the nation building as an unified entity, AEPC can take this concept of Fabric of Unity forward by showcasing the rich history of the diverse fabric and textiles traditions of India at AEPC premises. ” FABRIC OF UNITY SWITZERLAND:THE CRADLE OF INNOVATION With Swiss textile machinery companies, the ‘inventor gene’ leads to added value for customers Over the centuries, the sheer innovative spirit of the Swiss has been demonstrated many times through inventions spanning various fields of human experience. Their im- pact on the global textile industry has been among the most notable, with continuous and significant develop- ments. Swiss textile machinery companies have been at the core of this naturally-evolving tradition of inventive- ness. Today, the producers of machines and components and service providers in Swiss Textlile Machinery sustain that heritage by a commitment to ongoing innovation that will influence the textile industry worldwide in future. A single click and an application starts, another one and a
- 39. 39www.textilevaluechain.comNovember 2018 ASSOCIATION NEWS fileopens, or closes... Nowadays, hardly anyone remem- bers how we managed before the mouse made computer interactions so easy, quick and intuitive. In fact, it was a Swiss, Daniel Borel, whose inventiveness first brought the pc mouse to series production in 1982, launching a mass-market driver of progress that has been literally life- changing. Life is also sweeter today thanks to pioneers from Swit- zerland in the world of chocolate: their ingenuity per- fected the exquisite taste we know today, and in 1819 François-Louis Cailler devised the now-familiar tablet for- mat which made chocolate more available and affordable worldwide. These are just two examples among many – proving that the innovative spirit is in the DNA of the Swiss people. Some such developments have impacted on our indi- vidual lives, others on a particular business or industry. Looking back in history, Swiss inventions have repeatedly energized the global textile industry. The list includes: Caspar Honegger’s weaving loom (1842), Georges Aude- mars’s rayon artificial silk (1855), Isaak Groebli’s shut- tle embroidery machine (1863), Karl Friedrich Gegauf’s hemstitch sewing machine and later inventions such as Othmar Winterhalter’s zip (1923) and George de Mestral’s Velcro fastener (1951). From the more recent past, there’s no need to elaborate on the successful advances of Swiss Textile Machinery members, which will surely be well- known to most readers. The inventing tradition Years ago, most enterprises were family businesses, often built on the founders’ invention of a technology or machine which was then further developed and im- proved over generations. Many Swiss textile machinery companies have a history dating back more than a cen- tury – and some are still family-owned. The tradition of innovation evolved naturally over decades for the Swiss textile machinery manufacturers, component producers and service providers. Inventing is still a way of life today, and the fruits of this philosophy has been demonstrated at ITMA Asia + CITME 2018, where 30 members exhibited. The sheer power of Swiss innovation in textile technol- ogy is founded on a combined total of 3968 years of ex- perience by these companies. It’s a continuous commit- ment to in-depth R&D over those years, equating to the time-span between the world’s first multicolored fabrics in Ancient Egypt around 2000 BC and the modern age of advanced technical textiles. From pyramids to high-tech fabrics integrated in walls, ceilings and flooring. Building customer trust Across the generations of Swiss textile machinery firms, expertise has been handed down – along with the ‘in- ventor gene’. Driving it all, however, has been a recogni- tion that customer requirements are the priority. Meet- ing those needs through innovative solutions is the real goal. “The years of experience and heritage of innovation definitely bring added value for our customers, who trust Swiss Textile Machinery members to help them build their own business success,” says Cornelia Buchwalder, Secretary General of the association. Some of the standards set by the Swiss textile machin- ery companies have been established for decades – as readers might know from textbooks during their studies. As ‘Industry 4.0’ progresses, even more new technolo- gies and standards can be expected. “I am confident that Swiss Textile Machinery members will continue to intro- duce innovations which will influence the worldwide tex- tile industry in future – and I look forward with great an- ticipation to ITMA 2019 in Barcelona,” says Buchwalder. Everyone you meet always asks if you have a career, are married, have children, etc., As if life was some kind of grocery list. But no one ever asks if you are happy ‘‘ ’’
- 40. 40 www.textilevaluechain.com November2018 MARKET REPORT MARKET FORTEXTILES & CLOTHING (MTC)’ 2017 BYTEXTILE COMMITTEE 1.The Indian Textiles and Clothing (T&C) industry plays a crucial role in the Indian economy and contributes about 10% of industrial production and 2% of Gross Domestic Product (GDP) of the country. The industry also creates an employment opportunities for about 45 million people and accounts 13.61% of the export of the country with a share of 5.34% in textiles (HS Chapter 50 to 60) and 8.27% in clothing (HS Chapter 61 to 63) in the global market dur- ing 2016. 2. The domestic demand of textiles, which is character- ised by demand from Household and Non-Household sector, plays a significant role in the overall growth and performance of the Textiles Industry of India. The house- hold sector is the major growth driver and contributes about 53.39 % to the overall demand of textiles and cloth- ing products. 3. In order to estimate the domestic demand for Textiles and Clothing in the household sector, the Textiles Com- mittee has been publishing an Annual Report titled “Mar- ket for Textiles and Clothing (MTC)” since the year 1969. 4. The report estimates the per capita and aggregate demand of textiles & clothing in the country by region, gender, area, income group etc. besides estimating the preference pattern by fibre, product groups viz. woven apparels, knitted apparels, home textiles, etc. in the household sector of the country. This is the only authen- ticated report available in the country, which provides do- mestic market size of textiles at disaggregated level. 5. The report is published on the basis of the textile pur- chase data collected bi-monthly from selected panel household across the country. The data base generated from the collected data is analyzed and findings of the report are published in the form of an annual Report. The latest annual report “Market for Textiles and Clothing (MTC): National Household Survey 2017” has been pre- pared by the Textiles Committee. Besides, estimating the domestic demand for 2015 & 2016, the report has also forecasted the market size for 2018. The key findings of the “Market for Textiles and Cloth- ing (MTC)” are as follows: I. Domestic demand of Textiles in the Household sector: The overall market size of Textiles and Clothing includ- ing exports has increased from USD 145.71 billion in 2015 to USD 146.63 billion in 2016, which is expected to touch USD 164 billion by 2018. Out of USD 146.63 billion exports account for USD 35.43 billion whereas Household sector account for USD 78.28 billion followed by USD 32.91 bil- lion of Non-Household sector in 2016. Thus the house- hold sector contributes 53.39% to the overall market size of the Textiles and Clothing and the same has been ana- lysed in detail in the MTC, 2017. II. Aggregate demand of Textiles & Clothing in Household sector in terms of quantity and value: The aggregate demand of Textiles & Cloth- ing is 41.06 Bn metres in 2016 as compared to 38.54 Bn metres in 2015 and have ex- perienced an annual growth rate of 6.55 percent of expected to touch 45.32 Bn.Mtrs. by 2018, growing at a Compound Annual Growth Rate (CAGR) of 5.34 per cent between 2011-2018. In terms of value, the demand has increased to Rs.5261.53 Bn in 2016 as compared to Rs.4883.57 Bn in 2015 and have experienced an annual growth rate of 7.74 percent, which is expected to touch Rs.6204.02 Bn. by 2018, with CAGR of 9.54 per cent be- tween 2011-2018. III. Per Capita Demand of Textiles & Clothing in the Household Sector: The per capita demand of textiles is Rs. 4081.60 in 2016 as compared to Rs. 3836.13 in 2015 and has experienced a growth of 6.40 per- cent, which is expected to touch Rs.4762.90 by 2018, with a CAGR of 8.53 per cent between 2011-2018. On the other hand, the per capita demand of textile in terms of quantity has in- creased to 31.85 metres in 2016 as compared to 30.27 metres in 2015 with a growth of 5.23 percent during the period, it is expected to touch 34.58 mtrs. by 2018, with a
- 41. 41www.textilevaluechain.comNovember 2018 MARKET REPORT CAGRof 4.30 per cent between 2011-2018. The change in per cap- ita demand indicates that an average per- son’s consumption of textile has increased by 1.58 metres during the period, . It is perti- nent to mention that while the growth in de- mand is 6.91percent in the urban area, it is 6.01 percent in the rural area during the same period. IV. Fibre wise Demand of Textiles: The aggregate demand of cotton fibre based product is 17.22 Bn metres in 2016 as compared to 16.51 Bn me- tres in 2015 with a growth of 4.28 percentage, which is expected to touch 19.29 Bn.meters by 2018. The demand for manmade fibre based product is 23.34 Bn metres in 2016 as against 21.60 Bn metres in 2015 with a growth of 08.04 percentage, which is expected to touch 25.46 Bn.metres by 2018. Similarly, the aggregate demand for pure silk and woolen fibre based product is 0.34 and 0.16 Bn. metres respec- tively in 2016 as against 0.27 and 0.15 Bn metres in 2015, showing a positive growth of 25.18 percent and 8 percent respectively, which is expected to touch 0.37 and 0.20 Bn.metres respectively by 2018. The survey reveals that out of the total aggregate con- sumption of 41.06 Bn.million metres (Per Capita 31.85 metres) of textiles in the year 2016, Manmade and Blend- ed/Mixed textiles together have the largest share of 56.83 percent followed by Cotton textiles with 41.94 percent, Pure Silk textiles with 0.84 percent and Woolen textiles with 0.39 percent. Hence, the demand for manmade fibre based products has been growing and contributing sig- nificantly to the overall demand in the household sector. V. Demand of Textiles as per the Sector of Manufacturing: The Mill/ Powerloom sector has contributed 33.97 Bn metres (82.72%) to the overall demand of textiles in 2016 compared to 31.85 Bn metres in 2015 (82.65%). Simi- larly, the Knitted sector has contributed 4.94 Bn metres (12.04%) to the total basket in 2016 as against 4.77 Bn metres (12.39%) in 2015. At the same time, the handloom sector contributed 5.24 percentage to the total demand of textiles in the house- hold sector. The aggregate demand for handloom textiles is 2.15 Bn metres in 2016 as compared to 1.91 Bn metres (4.96%) in 2015. The demand of handloom textiles has increased by 12.66 percentage as compared to the previ- ous year. The projected aggregate demand of textiles by sector of manufacturing estimated for 2018 for Mill made/power loom, Knitted/Hosiery and Handloom sector is 37.24 Bn.Metres, 5.56 Bn.Metres and 2.53 Bn.Metres respec- tively. VI. Major Varieties demanded by the Household sector: Some important varieties which are highly demanded in the household sector, belongs to (i) personal clothing and (ii) home textiles. Among the personal clothing’s, products like shirt, trou- sers, frock, skirt midi, jeans (male and female), sweater, saree, kurta pyjama, leggings constitutes the major varie- ties in the reference period. Similarly, the inner wears like Banian, underwear, briefs, petticoat, panties, brassiere, are also contributed a major chunk of demand in the per- sonal clothing categories. The report indicates that the market size of personal clothing items is 37.87 Bn metres during 2016 as against 35.52 Bn metres in 2015 and has experienced a growth of 6.60 percent during the refer- ence period. Major Varieties of Personal Clothing & Home Textiles
- 42. 42 www.textilevaluechain.com November2018 On the other hand, the products like chaddar, bedsheets, towel and terry towels contributed significantly in the hometextile segment. In addition, the products like mos- quito net, pillow cover or cushion cover, furnishing mate- rials, blankets have also increased their presence in the product basket. Conclusion The demand for the household sector is the major con- tributor to the overall growth of the sector with 53.39 percentage of share in the total market size. While the export of T&C decreased at 4.66 percentage, the demand in household & non-household sector grew by 2.82 and 1.51 percentage respectively during 2016. It is worth mentioning that the growth in household de- mand of textiles has brought about additional demand for 2525 Mn.metres of fabrics, which is an indication to the required capacity expansion in the fabrics manufac- turing in the country. Similarly, the growing demand for the newly emerged products like legging etc. provides an indication at the change in preference pattern of the consumers in the country during the period. Hence, the many findings in the report may provide authentic data & insights for informed decision making by the businesses, trade & industry, researchers & policy makers etc. he Lenzing Group (Lenzing) has announced the launch of a new VEOCEL™ Lyocell fiber with Eco Disperse tech- nology which is designed for use in flushable wipes. This new fiber demonstrates enhanced biological disintegra- tion performance. The inclusion of this new fiber ena- bles more diverse design opportunities while providing exemplary wet strength and disintegration performance. Versatile and tailor-made for daily care routines, the new VEOCEL™ Lyocell fiber with Lenzing’s Eco Disperse tech- nology offers optimized flushability and represents the most advanced fiber under the VEOCEL™ brand portfolio. With botanic origin, all VEOCEL™ Lyocell fibers with Eco Disperse technology feature strong wet strength, biodeg- radability and effective liquid management. These cellu- losic fibers come in cut lengths of 8 mm to 12 mm, and are versatile for blending ratios of 20% - 40% in most wetlaid processing technologies. Nonwoven prod- ucts featuring a blend containing any of the VEOCEL™ Lyocell fibers with Eco Disperse technology and wood pulp have been certified as “fully flushable” per INDA/ EDANA[[1]] Guidelines for Assessing the Flushability of Disposable Nonwoven Products issued in May 2018, after passing seven rigorous industrial tests. “Flushability” is not only a hot topic among media, regu- lators and the nonwoven industry value chain, but also a growing social issue that impacts the sewer infrastruc- ture in communities around the world. The introduction of VEOCEL™ Lyocell fibers with Eco Disperse technology is a positive example of Lenzing’s advocacy for the adoption of more sustainable alternatives in the nonwoven indus- try value chain and meets the various product and perfor- mance requirements across different core markets. “We take a proactive approach and lay the foundation for flushable wet wipes that combine convenience with en- vironmental responsibility, so that we can bring optimal quality and performance to flushable nonwoven prod- ucts, as well as other nonwoven segments,” said Wolf- gang Plasser, Vice President of Global Business Manage- ment Nonwovens, Lenzing AG. While non-biodegradable synthetic fibers (e.g. polyester) are the most common blending fibers in today’s nonwo- ven fabrics for wipes applications, the versatility of VEO- CEL™ fibers offer a sustainable and botanic alternative to synthetic materials. When added to nonwoven products, VEOCEL™ Lyocell fibers offers value-added benefits of en- hanced absorbency, natural smoothness, and most im- portantly, biodegradability. Enabled by Eco Disperse technology, wipes made from the new VEOCEL™ Lyocell fibers have high wet strength usability and can disintegrate within a shorter period of time. For instance, nonwoven fabrics with 20% of the new VEOCEL™ Lyocell fibers and 80% of wood pulp reach >90% disintegration within 30 minutes, which is faster than the passing benchmark of the Disintegration Test FG502 in INDA/EDANA Guidelines for Assessing the Flushability of Disposable Nonwoven Products issued in May 2018. VEOCEL™ Lyocell fibers are produced via a sustainable, closed-loop process, where >99% of the solvent used for the production process will be recovered and reused. The fibers can be adopted as blending material for nonwo- ven products including baby wipes, facial cleansing wipes, flushable wipes, general purpose wipes, and intimate wipes. LENZING INTRODUCES NEWVEOCEL™ LYOCELL FIBERS DESIGNED FOR ECO-RESPONSIBLE FLUSHABLE WIPES MARKET REPORT NEWS
- 43. 43www.textilevaluechain.comNovember 2018 COTTON REPORT COTTONANDYARN EXPORTS CONTINUETO RISE IN SEPTEMBER Cotton export jumps 29% in 2017-18 marketing year In September, cotton shipment jumped 48% YoY to 1.29 lakh bales. Bangladesh was the largest importer of Indian cotton in September, followed by Vietnam and Indonesia. China was the fourth largest importer. The unit prices re- alisation averaged INR137 per kg or US cents 88.41 per pound. Domestic spot prices were at US cents 83.31 per pound while global spot benchmark, the Cotlook ‘A’ index for September averaged US cents 89.35 per pound. Thus, cotton export ended 2017-18 marketing year (Oct- Sept) with shipment of 8.70 million bales (170 kg each) as against 6.74 million bales exported in the previous mar- keting year, implying a jump of 29% YoY. Bangladesh was the largest importer of Indian cotton during the year, fol- lowed by Pakistan, Vietnam and China. These four buy- ers accounted for 82% of total shipment and rest was exported to 37 countries, of which, Indonesia, Malaysia and Thailand formed 13.5%. This means only seven desti- nations accounted for a little more than 95% of total ship- ment. In terms of value, exports were at INR17,400 crore or US$2,700 million, increasing by 32% and 35% respectively over 2016-17 marketing season. Cotton yarn export up 12% in September as China reduces buying In September shipment of fibre, spun and filament yarn continued to march up on a low base and higher pricing. They were 24% up in INR term and 11% in US$ terms dur- ing the month at US$572 million. Spun yarns shipment totaled 118 million kg (up 6%) worth US$379 million (up 11%) implying an average unit value realization of US$3.20 per kg, up by 16 cents compared to last year. Meanwhile, the INR against the US$ weakened to INR70.63 this September, which augured well for ex- ports. China was the largest buy-er of spun yarns, topping both in terms of volume and value. Cotton yarn export was at 95 million kg worth US$312 million (INR2,204 crore), 12% above previous year’s level. 74 countries imported cotton yarn from India at an aver- age price of US$3.27 a kg, down US cents 15 from previ- ous month and US cents 15 up from a year ago. China reduced its import of cotton yarn from India in vol- ume and value terms. It was followed by Bangladesh with volume and value both rising 65% over the year. In August too it had clocked a growth of 70-80% increases. South Korea and Pakistan were the other major importers, with former almost doubling imports from India and latter de- clining. Peru was the fifth largest destination. Seven coun- tries did not import any cotton yarn from India this Sep- tember as they had imported yarn worth US$0.83 million same month last year. However, they were replaced by nine other countries which imported yarn worth US$1.15 million. Syria, Kenya, Mexico, Indonesia and Thailand were among top five fastest importers of cotton yarn in Sep-tember while Iran, Bahrain, Argentina, United Kingdom and Aus- tralia significantly reduced their imports compared to last year. 100% man-made fibre yarns exports declined in Septem- ber, comprising 4.1 million kg of polyester yarn, 1.3 mil- lion kg of viscose yarn and 1.7 million kg of acrylic yarn. Polyester yarn exports rose 25% in value while viscose yarn exports value declined sharply by 50% during the month. Acrylic yarn exports were up 61%. Polyester spun yarns worth US$10.5 million were ex- ported to 51 countries at average unit price of US$2.51 a kg. Turkey was the largest importer of polyester yarn, followed by USA and Brazil. Unit price real-ization was up
- 44. 44 www.textilevaluechain.com November2018 US cents 2 compared to last month and up US cents 25 from last year. Viscose yarn worth US$4.7 million or INR33 crore was ex- ported in September at an average price of US$3.73 per kg. Bangladesh was the top importer worth US$0.9 mil- lion, followed by Belgium and Italy. Tur-key was the fourth largest importer of viscose yarn during the month, having ranked top in August. Blended spun yarns worth US$48 million were exported in September, up 11% YoY in value terms. During the month, 9.4 million kg of PC yarns was exported worth US$27 million while 4.4 million kg of PV yarns were ex- ported worth US$14 million. Bangladesh, Egypt and Co- lombia, were the largest importers of PC yarn from India while Turkey was the single largest importer of PV yarns from India followed distantly by USA. Shipment of all kinds of filament yarns totaled 56 million kg, up 4.8% YoY valued at US$107 million. GLOBALTEXTILE PRICINGTREND IN OCTOBER Cotton In India, cotton prices were stable to soft as arrivals start- ed picking slowly and steadily during October. Some vari- eties also found support of support price announced and lesser crop size this year. Benchmark, Gujarat Shankar-6 was traded at INR46,260 per candy, down INR765 from last month. Prices of other varieties were down INR755- 1,345 a candy. Reports during the month pointed out that traders were buying cotton at INR50-100 more than MSP before arrivals peaked. Meanwhile, the Cotton Corpora- tion of India, which was gearing up for procurement op- erations at MSP from farmers had to now wait for a while as prices are above the MSP. Cotton US Futures weakened during October despite some lifting seen in the last week as the market ignored a dismal weekly export sales report and instead reacted to message by President Trump about a good conversation he had with President Xi about trade and North Korea. The market hoped for a resolution to the trade war, or at least the easing of any additional threats of more tariffs. However, trends are still mixed. Export demand should improve soon for prices to rally significantly this year, but any increase in demand has to emerge without purchases by China for a while. December contracts lost US cent 1.89 month on month to average at US cents 77.94 per pound. Global spot benchmark, the Cotlook A index, also stepped down sharply by US cents 2.52 on the month to average at US cents 86.83 per pound. Cotton Yarn Cotton yarn market in China were under correction in Oc- tober given the fall in domestic cotton prices. Yarn sales were steady and prices retreated slightly from stability. Cotton yarn 32s and 21s saw smooth sales. Producer kept offers stable but discounts were available for actual dis- cussions. 32s cotton yarn prices fell to 24.06 Yuan a kg (US$3.48 a kg) while 40s fell to 25.16 Yuan a kg (US$3.63 a kg) both down US cents 7. In India, cotton yarn prices rolled over given the either way movement in cotton prices. With cotton arrivals pick- ing up, this may prompt yarn makers to maintain stable yarn prices. 30s carded cotton yarn for knitting rolled over at INR230 a kg (US$3.13 a kg, down US cents 6 due to weak INR) in Coimbatore while export offer rolled over at US$2.90 a kg. Polyester chain pricing Polyester prices ended October with prices plunging and rocking the dynamics in the upstream raw material. Play- ers in each level of the polyester chain blamed each other for the downtrend. Raw material makers blamed down- stream for the debacle while downstream blamed the up- stream for easing cost support. However, the downtrend in prices should ideally be attributed to the waning de- mand as the peak demand season come to a close. Polyester filament (PFY) prices nosedived in China as up- stream feedstock cost eased dramatically. Local offers were generally cut in various proportion with POYs and FDYs falling rapidly than DTYs. In Pakistan, local DTY pric- es were stable and were at par with offers for imported goods. Indian PFY offers were generally stable. Polyester staple fibre (PSF) prices declined to 13 weeks low in China following quick losses in feedstock prices and tepid demand. Domestic markets saw rigid demand while export offers declined on low level discussions. In Pakistan, producers held stable offers and were active to offload goods. In India, producers cut down offers for November, after three months of stable run, amid weak COTTON REPORT
- 45. 45www.textilevaluechain.comNovember 2018 sentiment. Polyester yarnprices were down in China amid limited sales and upstream PSF cost declining to multi weeks low. However, margins were still high given the slower fall in prices compared to PSF. In Pakistan, polyester yarn prices remained supported by higher prices of imported yarn amid weakness in currency. In India, polyester yarn prices rolled over but had limited room to increase Purified terephthalic acid (PTA) prices dropped in Asia while futures market in China retreated significantly once again. Support from upstream paraxylene also turned weak while processing margin stayed stable. In parax- ylene markets, no major settlement for November Asian Contract Price was reached while a partial settlement was heard done. Mono ethylene glycol (MEG) prices in Asia weakened amid bearish sentiment after crude oil values declined and lackluster sales in downstream polyester industry. In Europe, MEG market awaited October contract settle- ment, as talks continued. Bulk spot prices slipped further on ample import while truck prices were stable to soft. In US, MEG October contracts settled down while ethylene oxide contract prices for October fell 3.3% on back of de- crease in ethylene contract. Asian PTA markers declined US$65 month on month with CFR China at US$982-984 a ton and offer from Taiwan/ Korea at US$1,000-1,012 a ton. MEG spot prices declined US$57 during October to average US$838-842 a ton CFR China and US$840-850 a ton CFR South East Asia. COURTESY: TEXTILEBEACON.COM - +91-9819915227 while futures market in China retreated significantly once COTTON REPORT NITIN MADKAIKAR Textile Beacon ITMA ASIA + CITME 2018, Asia’s foremost trade fair dedi- cated to textile machinery, is once again marked by a significant presence of German companies both in their number and in the quality of their technology. Visitors to the fair will have an opportunity to appreciate the high level of technology being proposed by more than 100 exhibitors from Germany, including more than 80 VDMA member companies. They cover nearly all different machinery chapters with a focus on spinning, nonwoven, weaving, knitting, warp knitting and finishing. The overall exhibition space occu- pied by German machinery manufacturers is more than 7,000 square meters, confirming Germany’s leading posi- tion among exhibiting foreign countries. The German ex- hibitors increased their booth space by approximately 15 % compared to 2016. “Choose the original - Choose success” is the message of the VDMA Textile Machinery was at this trade fair. On the occasion of the VDMA press conference on the opening day of ITMA ASIA, Ms Karin Christine Schmidt, Technical Director VDMA Textile Machinery, emphasised: “Copycat machines may look similar to the systems they are de- signed to emulate. But only originals do not simply follow but are pacesetters of technological progress.” Original technology is a keystone of innovation. It has the poten- tial to successfully turn visions of entirely new possibili- ties in the textile production into reality. This approach is visualised at the VDMA booth. The stand achieves attention and emotion through the picture mo- tif: Neuschwanstein Castle. This world-famous tourist magnet is more than that: it is also a successful original. A vision, which could be successfully implemented in the long term through innovation and technology . Members of VDMA has given positive feedback about the association & VDMA is proud of that positive vibes. ORIGINALTECHNOLOGY MAKESTHE DIFFERENCE ASSOCIATION NEWS
- 46. 46 www.textilevaluechain.com November2018 Upset for Traders : Sale of pol- yester fabric decreased upto 40% The traders of the Surat’s textile industry are unhappy as there is sharp decrease in demand of polyester fab- rics. Sluggish market and money crisis have resulted in decline in the demand of finished fabrics in Surat. Short- age of cash rotation in the market has led to this griming situation. The sale of polyester fabric including saries and dress material has decreased by almost 40%. All is not well for MMF based surat textile industry. Post demonetisation, the industry has hit hard by new tax re- gime GST. The impact of GST is particularly stark in the highly fragmented synthetic textile industry, which at- tracts different GST rates at different stages of production and sale. Increased cost of compliance and an ambiguous refund mechanism resulted in a spike in working capital. Two years after Demonetisation and GST, the overall busi- ness of Surat textile industry has come down upto 40%. Surat with 165 textile markets, mostly spread around Ring Road, has 60,000 shops and according to an estimate av- erage business per day is Rs 100 crore. Before two years, demonetization has severely affected Surat textile trade. It has paralysed Surat as its economy was largely cash- based involving small processors and migrant employ- ees. GST has broken the spine of industry. The production of man-made fabric has reduced from four crore meters per day to less than two crore meters. 25-30 days long Diwali vaca- tion in Powerloom-Embroidery industry Because of recession, pending demand of 600 crore worth ITC and high prices of yarn; the owners of power loom and embroidery industry are observing 25-30 days long Diwali vacation this year. Hard hit by slowdown, in- creasing default cases and weak demand of raw fabrics has led to early closure of units in some industrial area of the city. Many power loom clusters has anoounced a month-long Diwali vacation from October 25 until No- vember 20 this year. Power loom sources said, the prices of yarn have in- creased by Rs. 50/70 per kg. in the last three months. Yarn prices are increasing but there is no output in fabrics manufacturing. There is a huge gap in demand and sup- ply. Weavers demand for the utilization of input tax credit (ITC) is yet to be accepted by the central government. In such circumstances owners are unable to operate our units. The power loom operators has conveyed the work- ers their decision to observe month-long vacation well in advance. The embroidery industry is also observing 25 days vaca- tion this year. The embroidery sector is passing through a tough phase. Only 30 per cent of embroidery machines are now operational out of the total 1.25 lakh machines. The reasons cited by the unit owners range from consid- erable reduction in job work from textile traders to in- crease in default cases in the textile markets. Post-GST, the embroidery sector is at the receiving end with more than 60 per cent downing their shutters in the last few months. Weavers closed hands for new investment The rate of investment in the weaving industry has almost come down to 70% due to the implementation of GST. Post-GST, the fabrics imported from other countries in- cluding China has become cheap and that the Indian fab- rics have become costlier. The benefits of duty drawback scheme to the exporters has been stopped completely. Power loom weavers are upset with the government’s no- tification which said that unutilized input tax credit (ITC) balance after making payments of GST for the month of July 2018 will lapse. Since the implementation of the new taxation system, the industry has reported a 30 per cent hike in the cost of raw materials needed for the process- ing of grey fabrics. Total 26 textile dyeing and printing mills have closed down in the year 2018. The severe liquidity due to delay in payments of almost 100 days and the decline in fabric demand have also added to the woes of manufacturers. More than 70,000 embroidery machines have been shut and that over one lakh powerloom machines have been sold in scrap post GST implemention. SURAT REPORT If you want to make Everyone Happy, Dont Be a Leader - Sell Ice Cream... ‘‘ ’’
- 47. 47www.textilevaluechain.comNovember 2018 SRTEPC HEADLAUDEDTHE HISTORIC MSME SUP- PORT AND OUTREACH PROGRAMME ANNOUNCED BY THE PRIME MINISTER, SHRI NARENDRA MODI ON FRI- DAY, 2ND NOVEMBER, 2018 The Prime Minister, Shri Narendra Modi launched the Micro, Small and Medium Enterprises (MSME) Support and Outreach Programme on Friday, 2nd November, 2018 at Vigyan Bhavan in New Delhi in the august presence of the Union Minister of Finance and Corporate Affairs, Shri Arun Jaitley, Union Minister of State (I/C) for MSME, Shri Giriraj Singh, MOS (Finance) Shri Shiv Pratap Shukla, MOS (Finance & Shipping), Shri Pon. Radhakrishnan, Secretary, DFS, Shri Rajiv Kumar, Secretary, MSME, Shri Panda and senior officials of different Departments/Ministries, Banks and Financial Institutions. As part of this programme, the Prime Minister unveiled 12 key initiatives which will help the growth, expansion and facilitation of MSMEs across the country. Shri Sri Narain Aggarwal, Chairman, SRTEPC congratulat- ed Prime Minister, Shri Narendra Modiji for this historic initiative and welcomed the Support and Outreach Pro- gramme focused on the MSME sector. The SRTEPC Head lauded the imitative of the Government and informed that the various announcements and deliverables focused on access to credit, access to market, hand holding and facilitation support measures etc. for MSME Sector will substantially encourage and uplift the Indian MMF textile segment, as most of the manufacturing units of this seg- ment are MSMEs. Small and Medium Enterprises are the backbone of Indian economy. The Outreach Programme is also likely to further invigorate the MSME sector since this sector is one of the major generators of employment opportunities and making a significant contribution to the overall growth of the economy, Shri Aggarwal stated. He also mentioned that this MSME focused Outreach Pro- gramme will give boost to the MMF textile manufactur- ing units in textile hubs like Surat, Bhiwandi, Itchalkaranji, Malegaon, etc. MSME Outreach Programme will run for 100 days cover- ing 100 Districts throughout the country. Various Central Ministers are likely to visit these districts in order to ap- prise the entrepreneurs about various facilities being ex- tended to MSME Sector by the Government and financial institutions and to come forward and make best use of these facilities including access to credit and market, etc. The key aspects for facilitating the MSME sector through the Outreach Programme are: Access to Credit (i) The 59 minute loan upto Rs. 1 crore to enable easy access to credit for MSMEs. (ii) 2 percent interest subvention for all GST registered MSMEs, on fresh or incremental loans. For export- ers who receive loans in the pre-shipment and post- shipment period, the interest rebate increased from 3 percent to 5 percent. (iii) All companies with a turnover more than Rs. 500 crore, must now compulsorily be brought on the Trade Receivables e-Discounting System (TReDS). Joining this portal will enable entrepreneurs to access credit from banks, based on their upcoming receiva- bles. This will resolve their problems of cash cycle. Access to Markets (i) Public sector companies have now been asked to compulsorily procure 25 percent, instead of 20 per- cent of their total purchases, from MSMEs. (ii) Out of the 25 percent procurement mandated from MSMEs, 3 percent must be reserved for women entre- preneurs. Technology Upgradation 20 hubs will be formed across the country, and 100 spokes in the form of tool rooms will be established. Ease of Doing Business (i) The return under 8 labour laws and 10 Union regula- tions must now be filed only once a year. (ii) The establishments to be visited by an Inspector will be decided through a computerised random allot- ment. (iii) Under air pollution and water pollution laws, now both these have been merged as a single consent. (iv) The return will be accepted through self-certification. ASSOCIATION NEWS
- 48. 48 www.textilevaluechain.com November2018 DECEMBER 2018 04-05 Filtrex Asia Shanghai/ China http://2016.filtrationasia.com/en-us/FILTREXAsia 05-06 Denim Premiere Vision London/UK www.denimpremierevision.com 05-07 The 19th Guangzhou China International Shoes Fair China http://www.ruihongfair.com 05-08 Premier Textile Fair 2018 Texvalley/Erode www.weavestexvalley.com 06-08 IITExpo- Ichalkaranji 2018 Ichalkaranji / Maharashtra http://www.pdexcil.org/media-events.html 06-09 MTG YCC / Myanmar www.myanmar-expo.com/mtg 07-09 FASHIONISTA AURANGABAD 2018 London/UK https://10times.com/fashionista-fashion -lifestyle-exhibition 15-16 GLOBAL TEXTILES - THE WAY FORWARD Radisson Blu /Coimbatore http://www.textileassociationindia.org JANUARY 2019 04-06 SITEX 2019 Surat/ India www.sitex.sgcci.in 09-12 DTG Dhaka / Bangladesh www.bangla-expo.com/dtg 18-20 GTTES Mumbai/India www.gttes.india-itme.com FEBRUARY 2019 7 International Textile Conference HOTEL THE LALIT/MUMBAI http://textileassociationindia.com 26-28 IGATEX PAKISTAN Karachi/Pakistan https://igatex.pk/ MARCH 2019 12-14 Yarn Expo 2019 Shanghai/China https://yarn-expo-spring.hk. messefrankfurt.com/shanghai/en.html 28-31 Morocco International Machinery Fair 2019 OFEC, Casablance /Morocco http://www.moroccomachinery.com APRIL 2019 04-06 INTERTEX TUNISIA TUNISIA http://bridgexpo.com/intertex-tunisia-2019 JUNE 2019 20-26 ITMA 2019 Barcelona, Spain www.itma.com AUGUST 2019 03-05 Yarn Expo 2018 Surat/India https://yarnexpo.sgcci.in/ OCTOMBER 2019 22-24 FILTECH Cologne/Germany https://filtech.de SHOW CALENDAR
- 49. 49www.textilevaluechain.comNovember 2018 Export &Import HO : A-403, Nirav Park, Behind Maruti Apartment, Opp. Kiran Diamond, Umiya Mandir Road, Varachha Road, Surat – 395006 Marketing Office : 519, Golden Plaza Market, Ring Road, Surat Email : bipinvora1959@gmail.com , voraassociate1@gmail.com Contact Numbers Ofce Contact : +91 22 40789999 | Fax Number : +91 22 40789900 Email: sales@talrejaindustries.com Wish you a Very Happy Diwali & Prosperous New Year ..!!! Surat A Well Wisher
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- 54. 54 www.textilevaluechain.com November2018 49www.textilevaluechain.comJune 2018 51www.textilevaluechain.comMarch 2018 DN Associates represent in India the following Textile Machinery & Accessories manufacturers N.Schlumberger, France : Spinning preparatory machines for Spun and filament LONG fibres (Website:www.nsc-schlumberger.com) ANDRITZ Asselin Thibeau, France : Complete Nonwoven Lines : Drylaid- Needlepunched, Hydroentangled and others, Wetlaid, Spunlaid and special machines for chemical/hydro finishing (Website:www.andritz.com/nonwoven) Laroche SA, France: Opening and Blending Lines, Textile waste recycling Lines and “Airlay” Nonwoven Lines (Website: www.laroche.fr) LACOM GmbH, Germany : Hotmelt Laminating and Coating Systems – Multi Purpose, Multi Roller, Gravure Roller and Slot Die for complete range of Technical Textiles (Website:www.lacom-online.de) Schott & Meissner, Germany : Ovens, Dryers, Heat Recovery Systems, Heating/cooling calenders, Wet/Dry cooling systems, Cutters, accumulators, Winders, Palletisers and Bonding systems (Website: www.schott-meissner.de) Mariplast Spa, Italy : All type of Yarn Carriers for spun and filament yarns including dye tubes for filament/long fibre yarns (Website: www.mariplast.com) MORCHEM S.A.U., Spain : PUR Hotmelt Adhesives for Technical Textiles, Solvent Based, Water Based adhesives, cleaners and primers https://www.morchem.com/markets-and-solutions/textile-lamination/ Valvan Baling Systems, Belgium : Baling and Bump forming machines for spun fibres and textiles waste recycling lines (Website:www.valvan.com) C + L Textilmaschinen GmbH, Germany : Reeling (Yarn Hank Forming) Machines, steaming, Bulking and Banding Machines for yarns (for Western and Southern India) (Website:www.croon-lucke.com) Schmauser Precision GmbH, Germany : Pin Strips, Faller Bars, Disposable Faller Bars for Intersecting Gills and Chain Gills. Top Combs for Combing Machines in long fibre Spinning Preparatory Lines (website: www.schmauser.com) Groz-Beckert Carding Belgium NV, Belgium : Clothing for Cards and Cylinders used in processing of long fibres, nonwovens and waste recycling (website:www.groz-beckert.com) FARE' S.p.A., Italy : Complete Lines for Spunbond / Meltblown nonwoven products /complete line to produce all type of fibers including mono and bicomponent including PET and PET fibers. Machines for producing Tapes and Rafia (website www.farespa.com) Contact : DN Associates E-mail : info@dnassociates.co.in Website: www.dnassociates.co.in H.O.: 406, “Kaveri” Jagannath Mandir Marg, Opp. Holiday Inn, Near Sakinaka Metro Station, Mumbai–400 072 Contact Person : Mr. Hemant Dantkale Mobile : 98201 06018 Phone No.: 022-28516018 E-mail : hdantkale@dnassociates.co.in B-310, Universal Meadows, Plot No. 27, New Sneh Nagar, Wardha Road, Nagpur – 440 015 Regd.Office: Contact Person : Mr. Yogesh Nawandar Mobile : 98901 53766 Phone No. :0712-2289662 E-mail : ynawandar@dnassociates.co.in Branch Office at Coimbatore
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