TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN November issue 2018

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VALUE CHAIN
NOVEMBER 2018 Volume 6 Issue 11
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Overview of ITMA ASIA + CITME 2018
Clothing made from Rabbit Hair Fibre
Reweaving the fabric of Vidarbha
Technical Circular Fabric
Grow Green and maintain machines
Market Report : Cotton and Yarn Export, Surat

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NOVEMBER 2018CONTENT
ITMA Asia Overview 2018
11- Oerlikon
12- ITEMA
13- Trutzschler
14- Monforts
15- Textechno
16- Santex Rimer
17- Sustainable Fibre : Clothing Made From Rabbit Hair Fibre
by Dr. N.N. Mahapatra
19- Weaving Update: Reweaving The Fabric Of Vidarbha’s Tex-
tile Industry By Anjan Banerjee
21 Technical Textile: Development Of High Strength Cost Ef-
fective Seamless Technical Circular Fabric By Dr. U.K Gango-
padhyay & Sanjay Saini
26 - Machinery Update : Grow Green With Smarter & Easy To
Main¬tain Textile Machines By N. D. Mhatre
29- Global Focus: Importance Of Controversial Russian Mis-
sile System S-400? And Why Everybody Wants It? By Mr. Arvind
Sinha
Event Update
31- ITMA Asia + CITME 2018
32- Yarn Expo Autumn
33- Silver Jubilee Celebration Of (Kushal Textile Institute)
35- Cotton Textile Export Grows By 26% During April To Sep-
tember 2018
36 - Brand Focus : USTER
EDITORIAL TEAM
Editor and Publisher : Ms. Jigna Shah
Chief Editor : Mr. Bhavesh Thakar
Marketing Executive : Ms. Nishi Patel
Graphic Designer : Mr. Anant A. Jogale
INDUSTRY
Mr. Devchand Chheda : City Editor - Vyapar ( Jan mabhumi Group)
Mr. Manohar Samuel : President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries
Mr. Shailendra Pandey : VP (Head – Sales and Marketing), Indian Rayon
Mr. Ajay Sharma : GM RSWM (LNJ Bhilwara Group)
Mr. Avinash Mayekar : Consulting Editor
Dr. N.N. Mahapatra : Business Head (DYES),
Shree Pushkar Chemicals & Fertilisers Ltd.
Mr. R.D. Udeshi : President- Polyester Chain,
Reliance Industries Ltd.
EDUCATION / RESEARCH
Mr. B.V. Doctor : HOD knitting, SASMIRA
Dr. Ela Dedhia : Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College
Dr. Mangesh D. Teli : Professor, Dean ICT
Mr. R.M. Shankar : Asst. Director, ATIRA
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Advertiser Index
Association News
38- AEPC
38- SWISSMEN
45- VDMA
47- SRTEPC
Market Report
40- Market For Textiles & Clothing (MTC)’ 2017 by Textile Com-
mittee
43- Cotton and yarn export
44- Global Textile pricing trend
46- Surat Report
News
16- Statue Of Unity
20- Grasim Industries Limited
42 Lenzing
48 Show Calendar
Back Page Raymond
Back Inside LIVA
Front Inside RAYSIL
3 RIETER
4 Sanjay Plastic
5 SGS Innovations
6 SKBS
7 LRT
8 Weaves
49 Vora Associate + Well Wisher
50 GTTES
51 CITI
52 Yarn Expo 2019
53 DTG
54 DN Associates

Ms. Jigna Shah
Editor and Publisher
‘‘
EDITORIAL
Learning Experience in Textile Technology and
Yarn Expos in China …
We understand you had productive Diwali Festive season and prayed
almighty god for prosperity.
First time visit to ITMA ASIA+ CITME 2018 and Yarn Expo 2018 autumn
exhibition is overall learning experience. Both machinery and yarn ex-
hibition co-current events happened first time in Shanghai, China.
Yarn Expo, Shanghai organizer had maintained quality by look, feel and
quality visitors across the world. Though this time few yarn expo exhib-
itor are not satisfied, as they compared the show with the last editions
which was always had with Inter-textile shanghai, Fabric event; few
visitors/buyers are common for both the show. Regular cotton supplier
and exporter had felt low demand, as they feeling fierce competition
from other countries and Indian competitors. Visitors and Exhibitors
expectation from this show is introduce and look for Innovative, Fancy
yarn. Many first time exhibitors introduced their new fibers in the exhi-
bition with new countries entry like France.
ITMA ASIA + CITME 2018 , exhibition for textile machinery manufac-
ture for Asian Market. Many exhibitors are not having real new tech-
nology to display but they have process and customer service ERP sys-
tem. Industry 4.0 in real sense implemented by Robotic assembly line
with Machine operation by mobile application introduction. Machine
is monitored, operated, maintained with cloud technology. Machinery
manufacturer understood that Digitization is must to survive in global
competitive world. Exhibition Visited by countries like Pakistan, Bangla-
desh, India (mainly from Gujarat, lesser from South India.)
Our Group who has Spinning unit’s owners visited few Industries in
China which is rich and learning experience. Knowing China’s indus-
try is always had a keen interest to Indian entrepreneur, all keenly ob-
served the industry units for process/system implementation in their
own factories. We wish India can be super power and surpass China in
very near future with US- China Trade War Advantage.
We wish you a Prosperous & Productive Hindu New Year..!!
When I hear somebody sigh,
“ Life is Hard,”
I am always tempted to ask,
“ Compared to What?”
- Sydney Harris
’’

OVERVIEW OF ITMA+CITME 2018
En route to the digital yarn factory
“From Melt to Yarn, Fibers and Nonwovens – Bring it to
Life” – is the motto under which the Oerlikon Manmade
Fibers Segment will transform itself into a digital machin-
ery and plant manufacturing company showcasing its
power as one of the innovation leaders for the produc-
tion of chemical fibers.
En route to the digital yarn factory, technologies such as
artificial intelligence, machine learning or innovative HMI
(Human Machine Interface) solutions promise the bridg-
ing between material and data flow– for customer value.
These topics are also the central point of the “Oerlikon
Innovation Forum” at which presentations in English and
Chinese will be held several times a day for visitors of the
exhibition booth.
AIM4DTY: Automated detection of error cause
The digital future solution AIM4DTY provides help with
the identification of possible error causes in texturing
machines to help reduce quality risks. The system recog-
nizes and is being “trained” using trend charts and their
respective errors. With the automated solution AIM4DTY
the information is instantly available to customers, there-
fore allowing them to immediately optimize the quality
during running production. It also ensures that predictive
maintenance is now a reality.
Wiping robot with intelligent control system used for
the cleaning of the spinnerets is automation
Intelligent control system which connects machines and
processes. The robot accesses the saved wiping intervals
in an automated and safety-relevant manner. The advan-
tages over the manual process are for example extended
cleaning cycles, less silicon use, more production time,
less operating costs as well as advantages for human re-
sources and health management.
World premiere: Staple FORCE S1100 : The Staple FORCE
S1100 is a one-step plant, which spins, draws, crimps, cuts
and bales in a single process step, produces small batch-
es (up to 15 tons per day) and can be swiftly reconfigured
for various requirements, including polymer, dyeand titer
changes. Its process control system for easy operation is
absolutely unique.
PA6/66 sector : With the acquisition of the PE Poly-
mer Engineering Plant Construction GmbH, based in
Thuringia,Germany, Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Segment
expanded its now completed polyamide process chainfor
fibers and filaments. The now available and tested tech-
nologies in the melt preparation process include the en-
tire polyamide 6 polycondensation systems division and
its PA6/66 co-polymer.
According the CEO the Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Seg-
ment already started establishing new ideas and mind-
sets a few years ago, are working between disciplines,
departments, areas and companies. An important step
was the acquisition of the newly integrated partner AC-
Automation who has substantiated know-how in large-
scale automation, transport, packaging and warehouse
logistics and end product automated quality control.
“Together with our process competencies and digital data
handling we not only want but will offer further innovative
Industrie 4.0 solutions for our customers – all the way to
the digitization of the complete process chain”, promises
Georg Stausberg.

Denim goes greener through the whole chain
Prosperity Textile acting as a pioneer and choosing the
first sustainable innovation in the weaving industry: the
brand-new iSAVER™ by Itema.
A new important partnership marks the path of Itema to-
wards a greener future for the whole denim production
chain. Prosperity Textile, one of the main denim produc-
ers worldwide, has chosen for its new facility one of the
most interesting and sustainable-oriented Itema tech-
nologies, iSAVER™ equipped on the Itema R95002denim.
Prosperity Textiles is, in fact, one of the early adopters
of this new technology chosen for the new plant that the
world-famous indigo fabrics producer will open in Viet-
nam, and that will be exclusively equipped with the lat-
est Itema weaving machine model, demonstrating once
again its green, future-oriented approach.
Thanks to its partnership with Itema, Prosperity Textiles
makes again a step forward in terms of sustainable in-
novation, as one of the first denim producers able to suc-
cessfully turn - even the weaving production - green.
iSAVER™: the ideal green tool for denim weaving
This new technology, developed by ItemaLab™, the Itema
Advanced Innovation Department, is able to completely
eliminate the left-hand weft waste, allowing to insert the
weft yarns in the fabric without the need of additional
yarns. iSAVER™ significantly reduces raw material waste,
leading to tangible benefits in terms of machine’s efficien-
cy, cost reduction and energy saving.
Just consider that the weaver will gain a minimum saving
of € 2.000 per year per machine, and our planet will gain
even more. In fact, for the first time in the weaving indus-
try, a sustainable approach when choosing the weaving
equipment is now possible. Thanks to iSAVER™, 1.000 Kg
of cotton per machine per year – the 3% of the total raw
materials - will be saved, thus avoiding the waste of 20
million liters of water, equivalent to 400.000 showers.
Numbers are clear: the introduction of iSAVER™ clearly
sets a new benchmark in terms of sustainability within
denim fabric production. Furthermore, the iSAVER™ is
one of the key features of the Itema R95002
denim, the
rapier weaving machine born and designed to weave
denim guaranteeing to weavers superior textile quality,
outstanding user-friendliness and tangible energy and
raw materials saving.
A joint eco-driven path
Itema, understanding very well the importance of saving
resources and energy to drive the textile production in
the direction of a more conscious manufacturing, focused
its attention to develop breakthrough weaving solutions
and in 2018 introduced to the market the iSAVER™, a rev-
olutionary device dedicated specifically to denim fabrics
able to eliminate the waste selvedge on the left-hand side
of the fabric.
This is one of the reasons-why Prosperity Textiles has
chosen to adopt this extraordinary technology for its new
facility. Today Prosperity Textiles is one of the main den-

im producers worldwide, counting 1,300 employees and
20 offices worldwide. Moreover, a second state-of-the-art
denim mill will be inaugurated in Vietnam by the end of
2018.
What makes Prosperity able to stand out on a global
scale, is not simply its products high quality but the ability
to conciliate flawless denim fabric production with a sus-
tainability-oriented mindset that permeates every stage
of their textile supply chain.
Prosperity, indeed, adopted innovative green manu-
facturing concepts through all stages of the company’s
operations, from product development, raw materials
procurement and processing, to natural resources and
energy utilization including waste management. Prosper-
ity’s denim production is based on the employment of
best quality yarns available on the market, while still tar-
geting the most sustainable sources, from BCI to organic,
recycled cotton, and from Tencel™ Lyocell to Sustans™, in
2017, more than 20 million yards fabric sales from Pros-
perity are with sustainable fibers inside.
The introduction of eco-friendly dyeing and finishing
practices allows the company to create beautiful indigo
shades and performance denims, with less water and en-
ergy consumption compared to the traditional systems.
Last year, Prosperity produced 20% more fabrics than
2016, yet the water and electricity use and greenhouse
gas emission was down by 11.5%, 7.9% and 5.4% respec-
tively.
In this continuous process of improvement and contri-
bution to a greener industry and planet, plays a central
role the recent renewal of the historic partnership and
strategic alliance with Itema – the leading manufacturer
of cutting-edge weaving solutions – which represents the
natural evolution of a constant process of research for
partners able to support Prosperity Textiles’ growth as a
sustainable company.
Up to now, all innovations and efforts done in this regard
addressed the traditionally more polluting steps of the
denim production. In fact, if the development of green
technologies is nowadays spread in many fabric process-
ing stages, such as finishing and dyeing, weaving was not
yet capable to provide sustainable solutions to weavers.
In Shanghai, all Trützschler divisions exhibited current
and new products on a 600 m² area.
TD 10 The new Trützschler autoleveller draw frame
ITMA ASIA marks the launch of the new Draw Frame TD
10. It features increased compactness and has a highly
modern regulating system. This results in a significant in-
crease in control dynamics and an improvement in sliver
quality.
Despite 20% less space requirement, it was possible to in-
crease the filter once more.
TC 15 Benchmark in productivity
A whole range of individual measures ensure perfor-
mance increases compared to the predecessor machine.
In addition to high productivity, the 1.28 m wide Card TC
15 stands for increased sliver evenness and improved
running behaviour. Trützschler will demonstrate the high
flexibility with five different sliver coiling systems on the
stand.
TC 10 The most successful card in China
Made in China – for China. The Card TC 10 is the card for
the Chinese market. This Trützschler card in the tradi-
tional working width of one metre has been specifically
designed for the Chinese market.
T-MOVE Space saving and increased efficiency
The can filling station does more than just save space. The
new moving head allows a can change at high delivery
speeds. This improves
card efficiency. T-MOVE
is also designed for
JUMBO CANS with 1,200
mm diameter.
T-SCAN Five technolo-
gies work hand in hand
for highest separation
rates
In the Foreign Part Separator T-SCAN TS-T5, five detection
technologies ensure an all-time high separation efficiency:
ƒ F-module Detection of coloured parts
ƒ G-module Detection of shiny parts
ƒ P-module Detection of transparent an
semi-transparent parts
ƒ UV-module Detection of fluorescent parts
ƒ LED-module Detection of smallest thread-shaped parts
IDF-Vortex Short-
ened preparation
system for air-jet
yarns
In co-operation with
the Japanese compa-
ny Murata, the lead-
ing manufacturer of
air-jet spinning ma-
chines, Trützschler
has developed a new

sliver preparation technology. When processing viscose,
two of three draw frame passages can be eliminated. This
represents an enormous economic advantage.
T-WIND Semi-automatic Surface Winder TWW-SD
Robust master roll
winders are used
when the produc-
tion of ready-for-sale
rolls is decoupled
from the nonwovens
production. The two-
stage configuration
with downstream un-
winding, slitting and
winding increases process stability. The Surface Winder
TWW-SD provides an appropriate solution for spunlace
systems, for a variety of thermal bonding processes as
well as for technical nonwovens. Winding of master rolls
up to 1,800 mm diameter and system speeds up to 300
m/min can be realized
GX1 The cylinder clothing that no longer requires
grinding
The new GX1 clothing has been specifically developed
for all spinning processes in the area of cotton. Improved
fibre guidance results in less short fibre content and
significantly better nep separation. The clothing is basi-
cally maintenance-
free, but can also
be ground when re-
quired.
NOVOTOP 30 The very
special flat clothing
The flat clothing NO-
VOTOP 30 has been
newly developed for
the processing of
coarse and/or dyed
fibers and reclaimed
fibers for rotor spinning.
It is ideally suited for use with yarn counts below Ne 10
and realises high
production speeds.
The flat type NT
30 is available as
MAGNOTOP and
CLASSICTOP.
Just in time re-
action and ac-
tion: Digitized
environmental
solutions for
your success
Hans Wroblows-
ki, Area Sales Di-
rector and Head
of Product Man-
agement for Denim at Monforts, proposes some positive
measures for keeping a step ahead in textile manufactur-
ing with Industry 4.0.
We are currently facing the biggest challenge of our times
– what is now being referred to as the 4th Industrial Revo-
lution.
Now we are truly in the digital age, surrounded by smart
technologies and permanent online solutions.
With online finance and shopping, expert systems have
been developed for optimizing internationally-linked
businesses, along with business models for global pro-
duction planning, in order to achieve the shortest possi-
ble supply and delivery times.
Challenges
How should textile manufacturers respond to this situa-
tion?
At Monforts, we have a clear mission and are committed
to investing in the digitization of our technology in or-
der to help our customers respond to the fundamental
challenges facing the textile industry today. These can
constitute something of a vicious circle of demands and
expectations as a result of: Fragmented process chains,
Different time and production scales, Missing standards
of communication interfaces, Small profit margins

The reality of low margins and low profits means that
textile manufacturers are ultimately fighting for every
production cent which can be saved. This can result in a
reluctance to invest in new textile machinery, but manu-
facturers really need to explore what additional value the
latest technologies can deliver. The era of digitization is
demanding new structures and new ways of thinking, in
order to assume digital leadership.
The key benefits the latest technologies can provide in-
clude:
• A reduction in the cost of energy sources.
• A reduction in machinery production costs.
• The sharing of process operators.
• A reduction in machine downtime.
• Optimised production planning
New Horizons with Qualitex 800
The consolidation of the Monforts Qualitex 800 digital so-
lution with the latest mechanical solution such as the Eco
Applicator or Eco Line can be the basis for the efficient
implementation of a range providing higher productivity
and efficiency.
The Qualitex 800 offers the operator more reliability,
quicker access and therefore more benefit. The easy op-
eration by use of the latest slider and dashboard functions
with individual adaption to the operating states assures
faster access to comprehensive recipe data and therefore
enhanced ma-
chine ability.
Through its
target-orient-
ed and inte-
grated digi-
tal intranet/
internet-based
Cloud solution,
the aforemen-
tioned just in
time reaction and action can be achieved to ensure that
supplier and customer will be always benefit from a re-
trievable online information service
TEXTECHNO Herbert Stein GmbH & Co. KG (Germany) and
their partner company LENZING INSTRUMENTS (Austria)
introduce their automatic systems for testing all kind of
fibres and yarns.
Textechno’s BALEXPERT and SPINEXPERT, both parts of
the new designed Fibre Classifying System FCS, determine
the quality and spinnability of both, cotton- and synthetic
fibres. The focus will be on the enhanced fibre bundle
length and strength tester FIBROTEST, the Micronaire sta-
tion FIBROFLOW, the trash and colour tester OPTOTEST,
as well as the automatic fibre-length-, impurity and spin-
nability tester MDTA 4.
The fully-automatic capacitive evenness, count and ten-
sile tester for yarns STATIMAT DS combines the three
most important test methods for spun yarn.
In the field of automatic single-fibre testing FAVIMAT+ is
now featuring additional test methods incorporated in
the equipment. A sample feed unit - AUTOFEED - reduces
labour for preparation of the test specimen and introduc-
tion into the test field to literally zero.
Textechno’s automatic capacitive evenness tester for fila-
ment yarn COVAMAT with its novel sensor design, auto-
matic package changer and a high-speed yarn twister ful-
fills all requirements for an effective and reliable quality
control system.
DYNAFIL ME+ is the all in one solution for automatic fila-
ment yarn testing. This instrument has proved its excel-
lent suitability for numerous applications like draw force
testing of POY, crimp testing of DTY and BCF, or shrinkage
testing of all kinds of yarns including monofilaments and
ATY.
For determining the number of interlaces Textechno has
developed the interlace and interlace stability tester ITE-
MAT+ TSI as the successor of the well-known ITEMAT by
Enka Tecnica after taking over all rights on this instrument.
Textechno establishes a new department for composite
testing services. Be-
sides testing basic
fibre properties with
FAVIMAT+, custom-
ers can also examine
the fibre/matrix adhe-
sion with the FIMAT-
EST system. The pro-
cessing properties of
yarns and rovings are determined by ROVINGTEST and
the drapability of fabrics and NCFs for composites with
DRAPETEST. Through our services you gain easy access to
award winning testing technology. Please ask us.

SANTEX RIMAR GROUP successfully attended ITMA ASIA
2018 in Shanghai
Cavitec presented CAVIMELT P+P LINE, the new hotmelt
coating and laminating line with rotogravure system, per-
fect for sportswear productions, developed to be highly
productive, precise, operator friendly and cost effective.
Sperotto Rimar presented the new surface finishing solu-
tions: SOFTA – high speed brushing – and VELURA – high
speed raising – for woven fabrics and knit.
Smit is presenting the new GS980 F: the fastest free flight
rapier machine for an outstanding terry quality. With
seven different working widths, from 220 to 360 cm, SMIT
GS980F is perfect for weaving terry towels or bulk terry, in
one or several panels.
To further strengthen the dialogue between East and
West opened in 2017 with FUTURE TEXTILE ROAD event
in Urumqi (Xinjiang), SANTEX RIMAR GROUP have signed
a partnership project with DONGHUA UNIVERSITY – COL-
LEGE OF TEXTILES to keep exploring the growth of the
new textile industry and building strong relationships
with international students to impact the textile indus-
try further developments, in a cutting-edge dialogue be-
tween mechatronics and technology, textile engineering
and machine manufacturing, study and experience.
Every year SANTEX RIMAR GROUP will award two among
Donghua University – College of Textiles – best students
with a scholarship and a training period at the headquar-
ters based in Vicenza (Italy) – one of the most important
Italian textile and fashion districts.
STATUE OF UNITY
NEWS
The Statue of Unity is a statue of
Indian statesman and founding
father Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel
(1875–1950) in the Narmada dis-
trict of Gujarat, India. It currently
holds the record for the world’s
tallest statue, with a height of 182
metres (597 ft) or about four times
as tall as the Statue of Liberty.
Vallabhbhai Patel was one of the
most prominent leaders of the In-
dian independence movement,
and the first Deputy Prime Minister
of India. The statue is on a river-island facing the Narma-
da Dam (also called as Sardar Sarovar dam) near Rajpi-
pla, 100 kilometres southeast of the city of Vadodara.
The monument and its surroundings occupy more than 2
hectares (4.9 acres), and are surrounded by a 12 km2
(4.6
sq mi; 3,000 acres) artificial lake.
It was built by Larsen & Toubro, who received the con-
tract for Rs.29.89 billion (US$420 million) for the design,
construction and maintenance in October 2014. The con-
struction was started on 31 October 2014 and completed
in mid-October 2018.
It was designed by Indian sculptor Ram V. Sutar and was
dedicated by Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi on 31
October 2018, the 143rd
anniversary of Patel’s birth.

SUSTAINABLE FIBRE
The basic necessities of life are the human survival
four aspects. Along with society ‘s progress and devel-
opment of material civilization development , people ‘s
value on clothing are keep on increasing . The fashion
industry therefore has been gone through generations
of revolution in order to meet general’s expectation.
In recent years , there are few aspects that regards
as important for different kinds of clothing which
are follows:
y Material multiplication .
y Light and easy wearing cuts .
y Which are stylish and trendy .
y Design to suitable for wearing in specific occasions .
Especially in past two years , International and domestic
markets have paid a lot of attention to the development
of textile that are eco-friendly .
The definition of eco-friendly textile are as below:
y Raw material is recyclable and reusable .
y Non-damage to natural environment during manu-
facturing and processing .
y Safe to customers .
y Bio-degradable when discarded .
The development enhances better quality of life , guar-
antees human’s health and environment –friendly , which
without doubt was a watershed in the fashion industry
revolution .Some of the animal Hair fibres satisfying the
above criteria is already in use in textile industries like
Camel Hair ,Mohair ,Cashmere and Alpaca . But there are
also few hair fibres identified by the FTC which are used
for specialized purposes and for a limited extent .
These are as follows :
1. Cow hair –obtained from the hides of slaughtered
cows .It is used for felts and coarse rugs and cushions .
2. Horsehair –obtained primarily from horses ‘ manes
and tails . It is used as a shape retainer in suits and coats
and for stuffing in mattresses and upholstery .
3. Rabbit hair –obtained from the common rabbit . It is
used for felt in hats .
The fur of animals such as the rabbit has long been used
as textile fibre.
There are two types of fur fibre :
a. an outer coat of long ,spiky fibres acts as a protec
tive covering .
b. an inner coat of soft , fine fibres which keeps the
animal warm .
Angora rabbit- hair (often described erroneously as ‘
angora wool ‘) has been in widespread use in European
countries for a century or more .
Angora is the hair of the Angora rabbit produced in Eu-
rope ,Chile ,China and the United States .The Angora rab-
bit is a variety of domestic rabbit for its long , soft hair
.The Angora is one of the oldest types of domestic rabbit
,originating in Ankara ,Turkey , along with the Angora
cat and Angora goat . The
rabbits were popular pets
with French royalty in the
mid 1700 s , and spread
to other parts of Europe
by the end of the century
.They first appeared in the
United States in the early
1900 s .
Production
There are bred largely for their long angora wool , which
may be removed by shearing ,combing , or plucking (
gently pulling loose wool) . The Angora rabbit produc-
es long ,fine , silky white hair that is clipped or combed
every 3 to 4 months . It is harvested up to four times a
year by plucking or shearing . The finest angora comes
from France,Italy , and Japan .The Angora rabbit is also
raised in many other parts of the world , including the
United States .Fibre yield and quality vary with the rabbit
and its health and breed, and ranges from 8 to 30 OZ . Of
the four breeds of Angora rabbits , the two most common
types are English and French .English Angoras produce a
fine silky fibre , French Angoras produce a coarser fibre .
Rabbits of the angora breed are adorned with “ fur “
growths of wool on the ears and the entire face except
above the nose , and front feet , along with their thick
body , and wool .They are gentle in nature , but they are
not recommended for those who do not groom their
animals . Their fur is very thick and needs to be groomed
a lot .The French Angora is one of the largest Angora
breeds at 7 ½ to 10 lbs ,with a commercial body type .It
differs from the English and German Angora in that it
possesses a clean face and front feet with only minor tuft-
ing on the rear legs .
The rabbits are clipped every three months ; the fibres
are 7.5 cm (3 inch) long .The outer ‘ guard hairs ‘ are
separated from the fine fur by blowing the fibres in a
stream of air . Both hair and fine fur are used for making
textiles , the former giving strength and beauty to the
fabric and latter warmth and softness . The two types of
fibres are mixed in such proportions as to provide the
desired effect .
CLOTHING MADE FROM RABBIT HAIR FIBRE

SUSTAINABLE FIBRE
Structure and Properties
Angora wool , the speciality hair fibre obtained from An-
gora rabbit has special characteristics like excellent
whiteness , superb softness , lightness and warmth .
The fibre ‘s smooth , silky texture makes it difficult to
spin and the fibres tend to slip out of the yarn and shed
from the fabric ,nevertheless , the fibre is desired for its
texture , warmth ,light weight and pure white colour , al-
though it is sometimes dyed in light shades . The white or
naturally coloured fibre is very fine ( 13 microns ) , fluffy
,soft , slippery , and fairly long .
Angora does not take dye well and usually has a lighter
colour than other fibres with which it is blended . It has
great economic value in woolen textile industry for
manufacture of speciality fabrics . Having special char-
acteristics and rare availability, it is a very costly fibre
.The products of angora wool have high demand in
elite group of consumers . The normal angora rabbit hair
used is of 14 - 16 micron . The dimensions of rabbit fi-
bres vary over a wide range . In general , the fine fibres
are less than 20 mm ( ¾ in) , whereas the guard hairs
are 50-60 mm in staple length .
The cross-section also varies such as the fine fur fibres
are round ,oval or rectangular . The coarser guard hairs
are often dumb-bell shaped , or in the form of a sharp-
edged oval . The scales on the surface of fine fur fibres
are fairly uniform in shape . They often extend half-way
round the fibre . Scales on the guard hairs have serrated
edges , and the edges often run slantwise across the
fibre . Both types of fibres have thick medullas , which
contain many pockets of air .
The keratin of fur fibres is probably a mixture of several
closely related proteins .The chemical behaviour of
these fibres is generally similar to that of wool and other
animal fibres . Water is absorbed less readily by rabbit
fibres than it is by wool . Hot water tends to soften or
plasticize the fibres . Alkalis dissolve fur fibres .
Before dyeing with acid dyes angora rabbit hair is given
a pretreatment using sodium hydroxide with concentra-
tion of 1.5 % w/v for 15 minutes at 25 deg c . It gives good
swelling , sufficient fibre strength , better dye uptake and
good fastness properties .
Blending of Rabbit Hair Fibre
It is often blended with wool to facilitate spinning be-
cause the slick fibre has poor cohesiveness . However
,like other speciality fibres , rabbit hairs also poses dif-
ficulty when processed alone due to its lesser scale
height and absence of inter fibre cohesion . It is believed
that while in use , part of this fibre drops away from
the products .
Generally blending of two fibre helps in exploiting the
outstanding positive attributes of each fibre and at the
same time offers effective means of minimizing the nega-
tive characteristic of individual components . And so to
increase the fibre cohesion rabbit hair is utilized mainly
in blends with other fibres .
The blending of rabbit hair imparts excellent effect to
the product . Angora rabbit hair can be blended with
wool/cotton and spun in cotton and woolen spinning
systems . Latest it is blended with viscose fibre and spun
in the cotton spinning system . The most popular blend
is Angora rabbit hair /viscose in 20/80 blend ratio . The
blending of Angora rabbit hair leads to the improvement
of yarn properties suitable for the garment production .
Uses of Rabbit Hair Fibre
y Angora rabbit hair is used primarily for items such as
sweaters , mittens , baby clothes , and millinery . It
is also used in apparel such as sweaters and suitings
and in knitting yarn .
y If a label states “ rabbit hair “ , this means the fibre is
from a common rabbit , not an Angora rabbit .
y Rabbit hair is often used to make felt for hats , but is
too short to make into yarns for woven or knitted
fabrics .
y Rabbit hair and fur are used very largely for making
felts and for knitted goods such as cardigans , gloves
and berets . For knitted goods they are usually belnd-
ed with wool before spinning .
y Rabbit fibre fabrics have an attractive appearance
and a soft luxurious handle . They wash like wool , and
tend to felt very easily . This property is made use of
in the manufacture of ‘felts ‘.
y Rabbit fibre has got good scope in India . Vardhman
and Oswal group can mix rabbit hair with wool and
acrylic fibre and make yarn for sweaters and cardigans
and export the products with a special premium price
y Similarly Worsted units like Raymonds, Jayashree , Dig-
jam , Reliance also can try blending rabbit hair with
wool and make premium safari suits , blazers etc
and export to American and European countries.
DR. N.N.MAHAPATRA
BUSINESS HEAD (DYES)
SHREE PUSHKAR CHEMICALS & FERTILISERS LTD.

WEAVING UPDATE
Textile parks in Hinganghat have heralded prosperity to
those involved and the growth is here to stay.
The twelfth five-year plan by the Government of India
brought much joy to the textile industry by introducing
the Scheme for Integrated Textile Parks. This translates
into triggered textile growth across the country, especial-
ly in cotton growing region like ours.
The Scheme for Integrated Textile Parks (SITP) was
launched in 2005 to provide the industry with state of the
art world-class infrastructure facilities for setting up their
textile units. The scheme would facilitate textile units to
meet international environmental and social standards.
The park scheme is being promoted by Ministry of Textiles
in line with Prime Minister Mr Narendra Modi’s scheme for
integrated and cluster approach modeled on lines with
China. Around 20 parks have been approved under the
new scheme, with around four in the state of Maharash-
tra. This scheme has recently been modified to promote
new investments into textiles by first time entrepreneurs.
The benefit of this model being short lead time in setting
up units, with common buildings and utilities being set up
by the SPV, for efficient use.
SITP would create new parks of international standards
at potential growth centers. Each Integrated Textile Park
(ITP) under the scheme would normally have 50 units. The
number of entrepreneurs and the resultant investments
in each ITP could vary from project to project. However,
aggregate investment in land, factory buildings and Plant
& Machinery by the entrepreneurs in a Park shall be at-
least twice the cost of common infrastructure proposed
for the Park.
Units and processes functional at Hinganghat ITP Gin-
ning, twisting and doubling, Spinning, Knitting, Techni-
cal Textile, Weaving (48 looms), Processing, Garmenting,
Fiber and Yarn Dyeing
Project Rationale: Maharashtra is the growing textile re-
gion in the country with prime focus in skill development
in textile sector. The State has prominent presence in
spinning, technical textile and garmenting segment.
The Park envisages an integrated facility for about 11
units along with warping and sizing.
It has had a long history in textiles and Mumbai was the
original home of India’s textile mills. Sholapur, Ichalkaran-
ji, Malegaon and Bhiwandi are some of the cities known
for the textile industry today.
Hinganghat was historically a centre of the Indian cotton
trade. The Entrepreneurs in this region have aggressive
intention to upgrade the technology of spinning, ginning,
technical textile and garmenting with support technolo-
gies.
By using skilled force to integrate the forward link in the
textile value chain, a group of entrepreneurs, having long
standing experience in the textile sector, have come for-
ward to implement an integrated textile manufacturing
complex with support facilities and infrastructure with in-
ternational standards.
Project Objectives
To establish an integrated textile park at Hinganghat,
Wardha District in Maharashtra State with state-of-the-art
manufacturing facilities for Spinning, Ginning, Technical
Textile, Yarn twisting and doubling, Knitting, Garmenting
and Fibre, and Yarn Dyeing for domestic and export mar-
kets.
Nature of Entrepreneurs
Most of the promoters of the Park belong to families who
have been engaged in spinning and weaving for decades.
They have established fragmented small factories for
spinning of yarn and weaving of fabrics and have busi-
ness links all over the country for marketing. The entre-
preneurs have to set up modern spinning and weaving
units with the required backward linkages and forward in-
tegration into garmenting units. Except traditional textile
business families, entrepreneurs interested in foraying
into the textile business are welcome to setup their units
at the equipped and convenient textile parks.
Operational and Financial Assessment of the Entrepre-
neurs
A detailed operational and financial assessment of the
entrepreneurs has been carried out with a view to ascer-
taining their textile/other business experience as well as
their financial strength.
The promoters are aggressive entrepreneurs and existing
players in the textile industry and have sufficient experi-
ence of running large scale businesses. All the promot-
ers/entrepreneurs have the financial resources to invest
in the project.
Why operate from ITP?
y Get access to reasonable value of land, common infra-
structure and common utilities
y Plug and play model for investment with minimum
starting time for new units
y Common infrastructure/utilities for roads, drainage,
water supply, electricity, ETP, STP, workers and staff
colony, warehousing facility etc.
REWEAVINGTHE FABRIC OFVIDARBHA’S
TEXTILE INDUSTRY

WEAVING UPDATE
y Reduced capital requirement ranging from 50% to 75%
owing to availability of required common facilities and
infrastructure
y 45-70% capital subsidy on the investment depending
upon the project
y Power cost to be approximately INR 4.5 or less
y All government compliance and liasoning like pollu-
tion, boiler, labour, factory inspector, electrical etc
available in-house
y SGST refund in the range of 60%-80%
y Advantage of FSI= 1.00 for all buildings
y Assistance for banking facilities, recruitment, training
and development, quality assurance, marketing etc.
y Reimbursement on training for workers up to INR
10,000 per worker along with dedicated training facil-
ity.
y Access to common infrastructure like effluent treat-
ment plant, telecom and IT Infra, sewage treatment,
research labs, staff quarters, storage godowns and ad-
ministration
Going the Cluster Way
The current government is advocating the cluster ap-
proach to industrial development and regional growth.
On this backdrop, the textile park will prove to be instru-
mental in bringing all of textile industries together and
create an influential establishment.
Advantage’s of “Vidarbha”
y “Vidarbha is expected to get much-needed boost with
a fresh investment of Rs.3,000 crore likely in textile
sector through 26 projects. These new ventures have a
potential to generate 3,500 new jobs,”
y The state textile ministry had announced a new policy
around two years ago in which an additional 10 per
cent subsidy is given to investors coming to cotton
growing regions of Vidarbha and Marathwada.
y To be Located in Central India having advantage of Lo-
gistic hub and potential for further growth.
y Ample availability of manpower in the region.
y Cotton production contribution of Vidarbha is about
66% of state of Maharashtra Production, hence essay
availability of Raw Material on economical Price is ad-
ditional advantage.
ANJAN BANERJEE
VP, Weaving
Gimatex Industries Pvt. Ltd (Wani Unit)
GRASIM INDUSTRIES LIMITED (UNIT HARIHAR
POLYFIBERS) WINS GOLDEN PEACOCK AWARD FOR
SUSTAINABILITY 2018
Grasim Industries Limited (Unit Harihar Polyfibers), a flag-
ship company of USD 44.3 billion Aditya Birla Group has
been named as the Winner of the Prestigious ‘Golden
Peacock Award for Sustainability 2018’ at the “18th An-
nual London Global Convention on Corporate Govern-
ance & Sustainability” and ‘Global Business Meet’ .
Mr. Dilip Gaur, Managing Director, Grasim Industries said,
“The Golden Peacock Award is a testament to our vision
to build sustainable businesses, capable of consistently
delivering best in class environmental performance, un-
derpinned by responsible stewardship philosophy.”
The Golden Peacock Award is well recognised. This year
Justice (Dr.) Arijit Pasayat, former Judge, Supreme Court
NEWS
of India, chaired the panel of judges.
“We are proud of being the recipient of this coveted
award. It is indeed an important milestone in our Sustain-
ability Journey”, said Mr. Ajay Sardana, Chief Sustainability
Officer of Pulp & Fibre Business of Grasim Industries Ltd.
Harihar Polyfibers Unit of Grasim, which was accorded
this distinction, produces rayon grade pulp. Harihar Pol-
yfibers Unit began operations with an initial capacity of
32 KTPA in 1972-73; the plant today produces 70 KTPA of
pulp a year from eucalyptus wood. About 90% of energy
used is derived from renewable resources and chemical
recovery is around 98%.

TECHNICAL TEXTILE
DEVELOPMENT OF HIGH STRENGTH COST
EFFECTIVE SEAMLESSTECHNICAL CIRCULAR FABRIC FROM HEAVY
DENIER MULTIFILAMENTYARNS
In modern times with emerging contribution of Technical
Textiles in all spheres of human life, the Geo-textiles have
opened up new areas in civil engineering. The technol-
ogy is gradually upgrading and regions which were earlier
unworkable are now being developed. However, in some
applications like Geo-textile Encased Columns for con-
struction of roads in extremely soft soils where tubular
structure of the fabric is formed by stitching; the seams
due to its lower strength and different fabric properties
have become a major concern for its implementation in
real structures as it adversely affects the structure. Due
to which there has been limited development in this field.
In this backdrop an affordable and locally available High
Strength technical seamless circular fabric from high ten-
sile strength synthetic yarns developed using simple cir-
cular weaving technology will be ideal for such and other
applications where circular Geo-textile is required espe-
cially for Indian sub-region.
Introduction
One of the sectors of textile industry that has received
significant attention across the world is Technical Textiles.
Technical Textiles are defined as textile materials and
products used primarily for their technical performance
and functional properties. Unlike conventional textiles
where aesthetic value is one of the key usage consid-
erations, Technical Textiles are used on account of their
specific physical and functional properties. Technical Tex-
tiles are used individually as a stand-alone product, or
as a component part of another product to improve the
performance of the product. Technical Textiles are also
referred to as industrial textiles, functional textiles, per-
formance textiles or engineering textiles.
Technical Textile has become a major segment globally
because of several advantages like functional require-
ment, health and safety, cost effectiveness, durability,
high strength etc. It is a large and growing sector and sup-
ports a vast array of other industries. The global growth
rates of technical textiles are about 4% per year greater
than the growth of home and apparel textiles, which are
growing at a rate of 1% per year.
Technical textiles are segregated into 12 major
segments
In recent times Geo-textile Encased Columns have be-
come most sought after technology the world over for
construction of civil structures on soft grounds. However,
for this structures tubular fabric is required [Figure1-Geo-
textile Encase Columns [GEC] for construction of roads
in soft soils].The advantages of tubular Geo-textiles,
drawback of present circular fabric structure, the new
seamless Circular fabric development and its benefits is
discussed here.
Figure1: Geo-textile Encased Columns [GEC]
Geo-textile Encase Columns
Large areas of India are covered with soft clay depos-
its, especially coastal regions. As a result of economic
growth, many infrastructure projects, such as roadway
embankments, are being constructed in areas with weak
soil deposits. Many challenging problems have been en-
countered with regard to construction on soft soil depos-
its including bearing capacity issues, excessive deforma-
tion, and slope instability. The instability or deep-seated
failure of a roadway embankment constructed on a soft
foundation has become a serious issue for geotechnical
engineers. Several ground improvement techniques have
been widely implemented to avoid deep-seated failures
in weak soils including sand compaction columns, stone
columns, and deep mixed columns. The problems due to
soft soils are low bearing capacity, excessive settlement
and deep seated foundation failure [Figure 2]
GEC
GEC
LOAD TEXTILE
Soft Soil
Hard Ground
Failure wedge
Embankment
Firm Soil

TECHNICAL TEXTILE
The stone column, or granular pile technique, has been
widely adopted to improve the soft soils through the in-
clusion of granular columns which have a stiffness and
drainage capability that is far higher than those of the
surrounding weak soil. In addition to the above benefits,
this technique is characterized by the ease of construc-
tion. Stone columns have been widely used since 1970s
to strengthen a foundation soil carrying heavy ironworks.
Since a stone column (see Figure 3a)) derives its bearing
capacity from the passive resistance offered by the na-
tive surrounding soil, the inclusion of stone columns in
very soft soils may not be sufficient to the desired level
of improvement. When embedded in soft clay, stone col-
umns may bulge due to lack of confinement offered by
the surrounding soft soil. Furthermore, the soft clay may
enter the voids between granular material of column to
cause clogging and reduce the permeability of granular
columns for drainage.
Therefore, Geo-textile encased stone columns (as shown
in Figure 3b) are proposed as a convenient technique for
improving soft soils that have un-drained shear strengths
lower than 15 kPa. Encasing the stone column within
Geo-textiles made up of woven high strength synthetic
yarns increases the stiffness of the column and thereby
increases its load capacity and no clogging of soft soil with
granular stone column when compared with the ordinary
stone columns.
Figure 3 (a) Ordinary stone column; (b) Geo-textile encased stone column
Figure 3: Illustration of advantages of Geo-textile encased columns
Figure 4.0: Installation of Geo-textile Encased Stone Columns [GEC]
The installation of Geo-textile encased stone columns
involves driving a steel casing with a closed end tip into
the ground to create a hole. A Geo-textile tube is then in-
serted inside the steel casing and the granular material is
then backfilled. The tip of the casing is opened as the steel
casing is withdrawn from the soil with vibration to densify
the infill material as shown in figure 4.0.
A. The Geo-textiles
Natural fibers such as flax, jute and ramie can be used
for most temporary application where, for instance, soil
erosion is the problem. The Geo-textiles made from these
natural polymers help to prevent the erosion of soils by
allowing vegetative growth and their subsequent root es-
tablishment. Once the purpose is served, the Geo-textile
material gradually disintegrates into the soil. In most me-
dium to long term applications as in Geo-textile Encased
Columns, Geo-tubes/bags where physical and chemical
durability and dimensional stabilities are of prime con-
cern, synthetic fibers are preferred. There are currently at
least four synthetic polymers considered suitable for this
purpose; they include: polypropylene, polyester, polyeth-
ylene and polyvinyl chloride.
Woven Geo-textiles form the major component of all
Geo-textile products. The manufacturing process involves
weaving of high tensile strength [≥ 6 GPD] and low elon-
gation yarns [<12-14%] into fabrics. Yarns of Polyester,
Polypropylene, and nylon in multi-filaments /monofila-
ment/tape forms are widely used in weaving. Multifila-
ment fabrics are characterized by their high strength and
resistance to stretch, these properties being enhanced as
the tenacity of the yarn increases. Multifilament yarns are
also more flexible than monofilaments, a property which
facilitates weaving of the tightest and most efficient of all
woven fabrics. Filament yarns of linear density 1100 dtex
and 2200 dtex are predominantly used in plain weave
constructions for Geo-textiles. Wide width looms are spe-
cifically used for producing Geo-textiles.
Woven Geo-textiles are mainly used for:
ƒ Reinforcement of Unpaved Roadways, Paved Road-
ways, etc
ƒ Separation applications in, Unpaved Roadways, Paved
Roadways, Sediment Control, etc.

TECHNICAL TEXTILE
ƒ As components in geo-composites
ƒ Geo-textile Encased Columns [GEC] for Construction of
roads
ƒ Geo-tubes /Geo-bags for control of soil erosion in river
banks/coastal areas
B. Disadvantage of Present Tubular Geo-textiles
In majority of applications flat fabric suffices the require-
ment. However, in some special cases tubular structure
of the Geo-textile is required for example in GEC, Geo-
tubes, Geo-bags; which is formed by stitching fabric end
to end [Figure-5]. Seam is always a problem in a stitched
circular fabric as it introduces a weak point in the fabric
compared to other parts. The functional properties also
changes in the seam part of the fabric. During application
all parts of the fabric come under same stress and always
there are chances of failure at Seam. The Seam failure can
be highly dangerous to the structure.
Figure: 5 Tubular Geo-textiles with seam
The Loading tests performed on Geo-textile encased
sand columns in both air and surrounded with weak soil
showed that the Geo-textile sleeve typically failed at a
seam. This finding supports the practice of using seam-
less encasements in real structures [Figure 6].
Figure: 6 Failure of Tubular Geo-textiles at seam
C. Overcoming the shortcomings of present Tubular Geo-
textiles
In tubular Geo-textile the fabric is stitched end to end to
make a circular form, however the seam makes the fabric
weak and ineffectual for the purpose. In an attempt to
resolve the selvedge related issues in tubular Geo-textiles
SASMIRA, Mumbai have developed ‘High Strength Cost
effective Seamless Technical Circular Fabric from Heavy
Denier Polyester Multifilament Yarns’ which will give sig-
nificant advantage. It can be used for Geo-textile Encased
Columns in construction of roads in soft soils [Figure 1]
and also in Geo-bags& Geo-tubes for control of soil ero-
sion in river banks/coastal areas where stitched fabric
is used [Figure 7]. SASMIRA has filed patent for this de-
velopment [Application No.E-2/2502/2017-MUM Dated
15/11/2017]. At present there is no manufacturer for this
kind of Geo-textiles in India
Figure: 7 Geo-tube Geo-bags
D.Development of High Strength Seamless Fabric with
Polyester Multi-filament Yarns
It is pertinent to mention that Tubular Geo-textile was at-
tempted on conventional shuttle loom on double cloth
principle. However, due to coarse and low twist synthetic
Multifilament Yarns, there was thread distortion and fila-
ment rupture leading to reduction in desired properties
in selvedge region due to use of strong temples as com-
pared to body [Figure-8].
Figure: 8 weaving fault of Tubular Fabric at selvedge
Therefore, to avoid the selvedge related problems in the
fabric circular weaving principle was adopted. Circular
Loom is a weaving machine in which two or more shuttles
move simultaneously in a circle, laying weft threads in a
section of warp thread, forming a shed. They are used in
the production of hoses and bags. The warps rise and fall
with each shuttle passage, unlike the common practice
of lifting all of them at once [Figure.9]. Here the bobbins
are mounted on the creel which serves as warp and weft
is inserted by rotating shuttles in the multiple plain shed
formed by the Heddle belts connected to cams. The circu-

TECHNICAL TEXTILE
lar fabric is then pulled by take up roller and finally wound
on winder.
Figure: 9 Circular Weaving Machine
Advantages of Circular loom
y Circular Weaving Principal - Simple technology
y Multiple pick insertion – High Productivity
y No Selvedges - Not possible on modern shuttle-less
looms
y Economical as many steps of conventional weaving
are not required like re-winding, warping, frequent
gaiting etc.
The specifications of the fabric for use in Geo-textile En-
cased Columns [GEC] were decided like yarn Tenacity,
count, EPI, PPI and TPM of warp and weft. After several
trials the Proposed Seamless fabric was developed on the
Circular Loom after modifications/precautions as under:
ƒ Controlled warp let-off
ƒ Smooth warp passage
ƒ Application of anti-static oil
ƒ Optimum twist application
ƒ No cuts/worn out tensioners and heddles
ƒ Suitable Take up roller cloth for heavy fabric
ƒ Correct rating of take up & batch roller motor to take
the load
ƒ Compact wound weft bobbin
ƒ Clear Shed Formation
ƒ Ceramic guides at important points
ƒ Frequent cleaning of machines with compressed air
ƒ Strong spreader arrangement
Figure:10 Polyester MFY High Strength Seamless Fabric on Circular
Weaving Machine
The test results of 400mm diameter Seamless Circular
fabric developed with high tenacity Polyester Multi-fila-
ment Yarns [MFY] for Geo-textile Encased Columns [GEC]
are as under:
From above it can be inferred that the developed sample
meets the necessary specifications.
Benefits of developed Seamless Tubular Geo-textile for
stone columns:
y The seamless circular structure with Multi-Filament
Yarns capable of being developed on existing circular
weaving looms with locally fabricated modifications
y Reinforcement sleeve diameters between 0.4 m and
1.0 m can be made
y The developed fabric is technically in compliance with
recommended parameters
y The indigenous Circular looms are costing from Rs. 15-
45 lacs as per diameter. Whereas, imported shuttle
weaving machines capable of making tubular struc-
ture on double cloth principle costing about Rs. 3-4
Crores. The conventional technology will further add
to final cost due to higher conversion charges.
y High Denier yarn can be woven easily [ up-to 20000 dn
& more ]
y High GSM fabric can be developed [ ≥ 1000 GSM ]
y High Tensile strength fabric possible [≥400 kN/m]
y Affordable Cost of circular fabric for Indian mark
y Suitable for soft soils with cu < 15 kN/m²
y Almost all settlement takes place within construction
period
y Adjacent buildings are unaffected by settlement
y System is fully loadable immediately after completion
y High embankments can be built in short time with no
Sr.
No.
Parameter Test Standard Unit Values
Recommended
Achieved
Value
1. Weight/Sq mts ASTM D
5261-10
GSM -- 972
2. Tensile
Strength [MD]
ENISO 10319 Kn/m 100-110 112.0
3. Elongation at
maximum load
[MD]
ENISO 10319 % 7- 13 14
4. Tensile
Strength [CD]
ENISO 10319 Kn/m 300 - 330 375.9
5. Elongation at
maximum load
[CD]
ENISO 10319 % 7 - 13 16
6. Water
Permeability
ASTM
D4491-16
Lt/sq
mt/sec
10-20 13.5
7. Static Puncture
test
ENISO
12236-06
kN 7-12 14.7
8. Dynamic
Perforation
ENISO
13433
mm 15-20 No Hole
Formation

TECHNICAL TEXTILE
NEWS
danger of bearing failure
y System is highly adaptable to local conditions and
loads
y No need to dispose of waste or contaminated spoil
(where displacement method is used)
y No adverse impact on groundwater flow
y Underlying aquifers protected by base seal
y Economical use of site space and lower excavation,
disposal and imported material costs
y Reduction in construction time and cost
Conclusion
The tubular Geo-textile formed by stitching fabric end
to end has a major disadvantage due to the seam being
weak and thus cannot be used where heavy loads are act-
ing constantly. The seamless fabric will be ideal for such
applications. The Geo-textile Encased Column (GEC) made
with seamless fabric will be ideal as a foundation solution
for earthwork structures built on weak sub-soils. This pile-
like load-carrying system is a quick, cost-effective method
of providing a foundation for embankments on ground
with low bearing capacity.
The particularity of the seamless GEC system is that the
outwardly directed radial horizontal stresses in the col-
umns are counteracted not only by the inwardly acting
pressure of the soft soil, but also by the radial resistance
of the Geo-textile casing. The circumferential tensile forc-
es generated in the casing provide radial support to the
columns and safeguard the equilibrium of the system,
thereby allowing its use even in very soft soils. This fabric
also acts as filtration-stable mega-drains, which speed up
the settlement and consolidation process. Potential later
settlement is thus either prevented or can be offset by
means of temporary cover fill, as required by the particu-
lar project. The circular weaving technology developed
for making seamless circular technical fabric is simple
and can be easily adopted. The cost of modifications is
also very economical. Further, with locally availability of
technically compliant High Strength Circular Seamless
fabric at affordable rates; the development of infrastruc-
ture projects is ensured to boom.
Acknowledgement
The authors wish to acknowledge the Ministry of Textiles,
Government of India for financial support for the execu-
tion of this project. The authors also acknowledge M/s
Kusumgar Corporates, Mumbai and Dr. M.K Talukdar for
partial funding and technical support for this novel devel-
opment.
References
1. Stability Analysis of Geo-textile Encased Sand Columns-
Dr. Shaymaa Kadhim, University of Technology, Baghdad,
2016
2. Handbook of Technical Textiles- A R Horrocks and S C
Anand Published by Woodhead Publishing Limited in as-
sociation with The Textile Institute , England
3. Geo-synthetic Encasement for Stronger and Stiffer
Stone Columns, Dr. K Rajagopal, Department of Civil Engi-
neering, IIT Madras, Chennai
DR. U.K. GANGOPADHYAY
Executive Director, {SASMIRA}
& SANJAY SAINI, Scientist {SASMIRA}
The retailers said same-store sales grew by 8-15% during
this festive season. Future Group and Fabindia said their
sales were among the best in 3 years.
India’s top apparel retail chains Shoppers Stop, Reliance
Trends, Lifestyle, Future Group, Arvind Brands, Max and
Fabindia said sales this festive season grew in double dig-
its, quashing the impact of online discounts and overcom-
ing a poor performance last time due to the introduction
of GST. The retailers said same-store sales — a key per-
formance indicator — grew by 8-15% during this festive
season. Future Group and Fabindia said their sales were
among the best in three years. In the offline category, the
buoyant performance of fashion chains was also in stark
contrast to sales of smartphones and televisions, which
were hit badly this year by online discounting. Some of-
fline retailers are offering discounts on certain bill sizes
or gifts, which are pushing up sales, executives said. “Con-
sumers are buying in stores since they can touch and feel
products and have realised that online stores either sell
very old stock or fakes and marketplaces do not like to
take ownership of those,” said Future Retail joint MD
Rakesh Biyani.
APPAREL RETAILERS LIKE SHOPPERS STOP, RELIANCE
TRENDS RECORD DOUBLE DIGIT GROWTHTHIS FES-
TIVE SEASON.

MACHINERY UPDATE
Textile industry is resource intensive and is often criti-
cized for its environmental performance. Textile process-
es rely heavily on water, energy, and synthetic dyes and
chemicals. Where it is noted that this Industry is consum-
ing 1 trillion gallons of water, 33 trillion gallons of oil, and
20 billion pounds of chemicals -(Cotton Incorporated).
Where the Machines play a vital role in controlling the
consumption of the above natural resources as well as
controlling the pollution of air, water, environment &
ecological aspects; and also conservation of energy, lubri-
cants, dyes, chemicals, etc.
Manufacturing technology is not what it used to be a dec-
ade ago. Today’s increasingly automated and software
driven industries have reduced human intervention to
pressing only a few buttons in some cases. The applica-
tion of advanced technologies in manufacturing such as
nanotechnology, cloud computing, the Internet of Things
(IoT) is changing the face of manufacturing in ways un-
imaginable a few decades ago. In addition to cutting the
costs, these technologies create speed, precision, effi-
ciency and flexibility for manufacturing companies.
It’s no secret that OEMs are looking to build more “intel-
ligence” into mobile and industrial machines. The goal
is to make the equipment they sell more productive and
efficient, safer, and easier to operate and maintain. Fur-
ther marrying electronic controls and software with hy-
draulics, pneumatics and mechanical systems equating
to lower fuel consumption, lower emissions, faster cycle
times, safer operation, easy-to-access data metrics and
condition.
Equally important, the basis of competition is shifting to-
ward delivering excellence in service and parts manage-
ment. The digital revolution is now breaching the walls of
manufacturing as it continues to disrupt media, finance,
consumer products, healthcare, and other sectors.
Indeed, the explosion in data and new computing capa-
bilities along with advances in other areas such as artifi-
cial intelligence, automation and robotics, additive tech-
nology, and human-machine interaction—are unleashing
innovations that will change the nature of manufacturing
itself.
Industry and academic leaders agree that digital manu-
facturing technologies will transform every link in the
manufacturing value chain from research and develop-
ment, supply chain, and factory operations to marketing,
sales, and serice.
Digital connectivity among designers, managers, work-
ers, consumers, and physical industrial assets will unlock
enormous value and change the manufacturing land-
scape forever.
Consider traditional car manufacturers and Uber, which
are both at the highest level in the business of moving
people around.
Car makers meet that need on the floors of factories and
showrooms, using a century of manufacturing experi-
ence.
Uber meets people’s transportation needs not with steel,
glass, rubber, and sales people but with data, matching
individual riders and vehicles via smart phones. Barely
five years into its existence, it is valued at about $50 bil-
lion.
Uber’s data, algorithms, and enormous growth pros-
pects have already made it more valuable than all of the
physical assets, intellectual property, and brand names of
some of the world’s biggest car manufacturers.
Further with the application of 3D printing technology it
is now possible to produce almost any component using
metal, plastic, mixed materials and even human tissue.
Presently Indian production of textile machines is 1.2 bil-
lion USD against 2.7 billion USD market size India Exports
0.5 billion USD and Imports 2.1 billion USD.
This Industry has a huge supply chain of Ginning, Spinning,
Weaving & its Preparatory, Wet Processing, Garment, Ap-
parel and Fashion. As the field of the subject is very vast
the content of this article is restricted to the Technological
Development in the design aspects of Weaving & Weaving
Preparatory machines and their Lubrication systems to
grow green. Lubricants and Lubrication plays a very vital
role in this Industry considering variety of machines are
working with different speeds, loads, under different en-
vironments of humidity, temperature, chemicals, fumes,
steam, fluff, etc. and accordingly a remarkable develop-
ment have been taken place in the grades and properties
of lubricants as well as its application system.
Weaving Loom Shed
While noise pollution is the main concern in a Weaving
shed, while the discharge of water with chemicals in siz-
ing is a headache in the weaving preparatory sector. In
the looms, shuttle picking motions which is supposed to
be the heart of the loom and so the noise producing mo-
tion has been replaced by various lighter medium tech-
nologies like projectile, rapier, water and air-jets. [Fig-1
& 1(a)]. Shuttle of about half kg. weight was considered
to be the heaviest carrier of the weft, consuming highest
energy and maximum travel time. It is now replaced with
GROW GREEN WITH SMARTER & EASYTO
MAINTAIN TEXTILE MACHINES

MACHINERY UPDATE
lighter or no weight and faster mediums.
1&1(a) Shuttle, Projectile, Rapier, Water and Air-jet heads
Further the replacement of plastic/leather material used
as a shock absorbent by a Zama Buffer and Hydraulic
Dampers [(Fig-2 & 2(a)] and also introduction of Special
Weltac Oil have considerably reduced noise due to bang-
ing of picking stick and picking nose with picking bowl,
further enhancing the life of these spares.
2 & 2 (a) Zama Buffer and Hydraulic Dampers
The crank beat up motion, being additionally noise pro-
ducing, is now converted to cam motions. [Fig-3 & 3 (a)].
The basic principle of Common Drive is shifted to Individ-
ual drive and at the same time introduction of compact
and effective trapezoid belts replacing the conventional
flat, v-belts, resulted in reduction of speed losses due to
slippages, and lead to effective loom stoppage.
3 &3 (a) Crank Beat- up motion and Cam motion.
The functioning of Secondary Motions like Take-up and
Let-off through mechanical linkages controlled by one
point Tappet motion is now separately controlled through
Servo motors thus executing the action very fast and fur-
ther saving lubricants and electrical power, further pre-
serving noise at the lowest level.
The lengthy linkage of Cam, roller and levers working on
frictional principle as a driving motion in the Shedding As-
sembly is replaced by a direct drive through a one piece
cam of steel in oil bath [Fig-4 & 4(a)] and levers having a
positive drive to the heald frames, by providing all these
assemblies outside the loom at one side thus resulting to
be User Friendly to the operative and also reducing wear
and tear, downtime for lubrication and manual interven-
tion.
4 & 4(a) Conventional Shedding Assembly and One piece Cam of Steel
in Oil bath
Further, open oil holes are converted to oil baths/oil res-
ervoirs [Fig-5 & 5 (a)] and self lubricated bearings, which
apart from reducing the consumption and contamination
of lubricants also helps in reducing the heat generated
due to friction created among the high speed spares, thus
further reduces the machine downtime and human inter-
vention.
5 & 5 (a) Conventional loom with Open Oil holes and Developed
Looms with Oil baths/Oil Reservoirs
The introduction of Super speed Shuttleless looms have
demanded an effective lubricants and their application
systems as in Projectile Shuttleless loom where high vis-
cosity oil does not centrifuges away but remain on fast
moving chain and avoids transfer of heat generated by
chain on to projectile; while in Rapier looms force circula-
tion lubrication system is effective at all assemblies; and
in Air-jet looms the Oil Circulating system with filters help
in sustaining the status of lubricants inherently.

MACHINERY UPDATE
Weaving Preparatory Section
The developments in attending the broken thread manu-
ally on conventional common drive winding machine to
individual spindle driven with a knotting and splicing sys-
tems have remarkably increased the productivity, prod-
uct quality, wear and tear of spares due to idle spindle
running, lubricants and proved to be User-friendly. The
incidences of costly Bakelite drums getting damaged on
the mechanically operated systems on the conventional
machines due to sharp free falling of the cradle over the
drum have been controlled by a cradle damping unit on
the developed machines with a high performance lubri-
cants resulting in a smooth and steady descending of the
cradle over the drum. [Fig-6 & 6(a)]
6 & 6(a) Cradle damping unit on the developed machines with high
performance Lubricants
With the introduction of the pneumatically controlled hy-
draulic circulatory system over the Developed Warping
machines have resulted in the effective braking system
[Fig-7 & 7 (a)] of the guide rollers and warping beams run-
ning at very high speeds and had also made a provision of
automatically loading and unloading of heavy and huge
warping beams which is unsafe and laborious as done
manually on the conventional machines.
7 & 7(a) Pneumatically controlled Hydraulic Circulatory system over
the Developed Warping machines
Thus while concluding we can say that the introduction
of Technological Development in the design aspects of
Weaving & Weaving Preparatory machines and their Lu-
brication systems have shown a remarkable reduction in
the annual consumption of lubricants in comparison to
those by conventional textile machines as given in table
below, thus contribution to the National gain and GDP of
the Country.
Winding machines Warping machines Sizing machines Wea
Conventional Developed Conventional Develope d Conventional Developed Conv
Oil(Ltrsinlakhs) 0.07 0.05 4.75 0.30 3.01 0.08 355
Grease (Kgs in
lakhs)
0.05 0.03 0.09 0.06 1.24 0.05 23
Winding machines Warping machines Sizing machines Weaving Looms
Conventional Developed Conventional Develope d Conventional Developed Conventional Developed
Oil(Ltrsinlakhs) 0.07 0.05 4.75 0.30 3.01 0.08 355 45
Grease (Kgs in
lakhs)
0.05 0.03 0.09 0.06 1.24 0.05 23 5
N. D. MHATRE
Director General (Tech),
ITAMMA

GLOBAL FOCUS
IMPORTANCE OF CONTROVERSIAL RUSSIAN MISSILE
SYSTEM S-400? AND WHY EVERYBODY WANTS IT?
The system is an upgrade to the S-300, which Syria re-
cently purchased, with potential clients such as India and
Turkey.
The Vostok-2018 war games in eastern Siberia last month
marked Russia’s biggest military exercise in more than 30
years, with about 300,000 Russian, Chinese and Mongo-
lian troops taking part.
More than just an exercise, the war games were a pub-
lic relations opportunity to showcase military hardware,
Russia’s second-biggest source of income after oil.
During Vostok-2018, Russia showed off the S-400 sur-
face-to-air missile, one of the country’s most advanced
and marketable weapons systems in recent years.
The S-400 is a massive upgrade to the S-300, its predeces-
sor which was recently sent to Syria.
Russian S-400 Triumph medium-range and long-range surface-to-air
missile systems
Because of its capabilities, several countries including
Saudi Arabia, Turkey, India and Qatar have said they are
willing to buy the S-400. China already bought this.
Several countries including Saudi Arabia, Turkey, India and Qatarhave
said they are willing to buy the S-400.
Almost every government that announced it was plan-
ning to buy the system was threatened with some kind of
diplomatic retaliation from the US, NATO or adversaries.
The reason for this blowback, according to several experts
is not only because the S-400 is technologically advanced,
it also poses a potential risk for long-standing alliances.
The S-400 is among the most advanced air defence sys-
tems available, on par with the best the West has to of-
fer. Its radars and other sensors, as well as its missiles,
cover an extensive area - the radar has a range of at least
600km for surveillance, and its missiles have ranges of up
to 400km. It’s precise and it manages to track a very large
number of potential targets, including stealth targets.
Other advantages are its modular setup and high mobil-
ity, meaning it can be set up, fired and moved within min-
utes. The S-400 is among the most advanced air defence
systems available, on par with the best the West has to
offer.
It’s intended to be a one-size-fits-all missile system. It can
be configured with long-range, semi long-range, medium-
range and even short-range weapons systems, depend-
ing on how the individual user wishes to configure the
S-400.
It’s very rugged, it’s adaptable and it’s a road-mobile sys-
tem, something many countries are seeking to evolve to.
Turkey, a NATO member, is one of the most significant
potential buyers of the S-400. But Turkey’s interest in the
Russian missile system spooked its Western NATO allies,
for technical and political reasons.
In the technological sense, the S-400 would certainly be
a step forward [for Turkey], but it’s not necessarily in the
best interest of NATO to have that weapons system in-
tegrated within its broader architecture. The S-400 could
lead to a potentially dangerous situation.
When you look at the Russian S-400 system, especially in

GLOBAL FOCUS
a NATO structure, there’s a scale of difficulty when inte-
grating it into the bigger defence system.
If you take it as a very benign situation, the simplest sce-
nario is that its data might not be able to be incorporated
into the defensive architecture that is currently used by
NATO. That’s probably the best worst-case scenario.
NATO relies heavily on several systems working together
in a larger network.
What kind of contracts would be in place with Russian
technicians taking care of the S-400, for example, would
Russian maintenance personnel have access to [NATO]
data?
The worst-case scenario is that there might be vulnerabili-
ties associated with that system that could be exploited
by a potential adversary.
Plugging it in could potentially actively compromise your
own defensive network.
For India, Saudi Arabia and Qatar, who are not part of
an alliance such as NATO, buying a system like the S-400
would lead to fewer technological issues, but they could
risk diplomatic and economic repercussions from the US.
In 2017, the US implemented the Countering America’s
Adversaries Sanctions Act(CAATSA) in a response to al-
leged Russian interference in the 2016 US presidential
elections and military involvement in both Ukraine and
Syria.
CAATSA allows the US to act against individuals, compa-
nies or countries that are “disturbing international secu-
rity”.
The US is looking to isolate Russia following on from the
events in Ukraine and beyond
However, India decided earlier this week to buy the weap-
ons system.
India places top priority on ties with Russia. In today’s
fast-changing world, our relationship assumes height-
ened importance. India Prime Minister Narendra Modi
told told Russia President Vladimir Putin after they signed
the $5bn deal. The chances of the US following through
on its threats of sanctions are slim, especially for coun-
tries like India or Saudi Arabia. The sanctions are not au-
tomatic and exemptions are possible if in the national
interest of the US.
Sanctions are actually unlikely as India and others are too
important as military and political partners for the US.
Even limited sanctions would probably make those coun-
tries quite angry - angry enough to hurt US interests. But
even if economic sanctions are unlikely, upsetting the US
could lead to a diplomatic spat.
There is also a diplomatic issue here, as the agreement
to sell sensitive technology to a country implies a wider
alignment of a range of political issues, and that is why
the US is looking to isolate Russia following on from the
events in Ukraine and beyond. For the US, these purchas-
es from more than just a military threat - they are about
countering Russia’s involvement in global conflicts, but
also about maintaining long-standing US diplomatic rela-
tions and preventing Russia receiving hard currency for
its equipment.
The US has been working at finding ways to strengthen its
diplomatic responses on the world stage to countries that
violate the global rules-based order.
So why would Turkey, India or any other country risk dip-
lomatic relations with the US?
India does not like to necessarily buy from one vendor
and be overly dependent on one country, so from an In-
dian perspective geopolitically it does make sense to buy
some systems from Russia and some from the US. India
also has a long-standing relationship as far as buying
hardware from Russia, so they have a lot of experience
with this equipment. Another motive is sharing military
technology, something the US is not eager to do, unlike
to Russia. Russia is willing to supply S-400 to probably
about anyone and to share technology to some extent
which may be advantage and disadvantage too?
MR. ARVIND SINHA - CEO
M/s. Business Advisors Group, Mumbai

EVENT UPDATE
ITMA ASIA + CITME ENJOYS ANOTHER
SUCCESSFUL PRESENTATION
Strong attendance affirms combined show’s industry-
leading position in the region
ITMA ASIA + CITME 2018, the region’s leading textile ma-
chinery exhibition, ended successfully after five days of
exciting product demonstrations and business network-
ing.
The sixth combined exhibition welcomed visitor ship of
over 100,000 from 116 countries and regions, with an in-
crease of 10 per cent from domestic visitors compared
to the 2016 show. About 20 per cent of the visitors came
from outside of China.
Of the overseas participants, Indian visitors top the list,
reflecting the strong growth of its textile industry. Follow-
ing closely were trade visitors from Japan, China Taiwan,
Korea and Bangladesh.
Mr Fritz P. Mayer, President of CEMATEX, said: “Response
to the combined show has been very strong. There was a
larger pool of qualified buyers and most of our exhibitors
were able to achieve their business objectives. We are de-
lighted with the positive outcome from our latest event.”
Mr Wang Shutian, President of China Textile Machinery
Association (CTMA), added: “The strong turnout of visitors
to the combined show reinforces the reputation of ITMA
ASIA + CITME as the most effective business platform in
China for the industry. We shall continue to do our best to
present the best technologies from both east and west to
Chinese and Asian buyers.”
The total exhibition area at ITMA ASIA + CITME 2018
grossed 180,000 square metres and spanned seven halls.
A total of 1,733 exhibitors from 28 countries and regions
demonstrated their latest technological products that fo-
cus on automation and sustainable production.
Following the successful staging of the 2018 edition, the
next ITMA ASIA + CITME will be held in October 2020 at
the National Exhibition and Convention Centre (NECC) in
Shanghai.
The combined show is owned by CEMATEX, together with
its Chinese partners – the Sub-Council of Textile Industry,
CCPIT (CCPIT-Tex), China Textile Machinery Association
(CTMA) and China International Exhibition Centre Group
Corporation (CIEC). It is organised by Beijing Textile Ma-
chinery International Exhibition Co Ltd and co-organised
by ITMA Services.
For more information, please visit www.itmaasia.com
or www.citme.com.cn.

EVENT UPDATE
YARN EXPO AUTUMN 2018
More exhibitors than ever joined Yarn Expo Autumn
2018, which was held concurrently with ITMA ASIA + CIT-
ME from 15 – 17 October at the National Exhibition Con-
vention Centre (Shanghai). 501 suppliers from 14 coun-
tries & regions participated, with new countries to the
show including France. This international diversification,
as well as strong domestic numbers, demonstrated Yarn
Expo’s increasing recognition as a top show in the indus-
try. What’s more, almost 80% of exhibitors were returning
from successful past editions, showing their support of
the fair.“Although Yarn Expo was unable to be held con-
currently with Intertextile Apparel this year, more indus-
try players recognise this fair as a top show for yarn and
this is why the turnout remained very strong,” explained
Ms Wendy Wen, Senior General Manager of Messe Frank-
furt (HK). “Our product range was more diverse than ever
as exhibitors increasingly see China as the ideal market to
introduce their latest innovations. For example, this year
we’ve welcomed premium French linen and advanced
Italian chemical fibres. Yarn Expo is a platform that prom-
ises to gather all of the top suppliers under one roof for
genuine buyers.” With demand rising within the Chinese
market for fancy & specialty yarns, suitable for stand-out
fashion trends, the trade potential for this product cate-
gory was high. Business for eco-friendly and natural yarns
was also reported to remain steady this edition, reflected
by the India Pavilion which increased in size by around
40% this year.
Exhibitor feedback
“We are using Yarn Expo as a platform for brand expo-
sure. We have a very good feeling about the demand for
premium products in China. Yarn Expo has many more
quality visitors in comparison to other fairs. We have had
a very positive experience and will certainly return.” Mr
Hervé Denoyelle, Business Development Manager, Sa-
filin, France “
The participation in the India Pavilion has been quite good
this year, all of the leading Indian companies are here and
we are occupying much more space. It’s important to be
here, the fair reflects market demand, and everybody
comes here twice a year. We see a lot of potential grow-
ing in China.” Dr Siddhartha Rajagopal, Executive Director,
Texprocil (India Pavilion organisers)
Buyer Opinion
Yarn Expo has a good reputation in the textile yarn indus-
try, buyers are becoming more internationally diversified
each year, which can meet my purchasing needs. Part-
ners and visitors at Yarn Expo each year can meet and
exchange here to strengthen their business relationships.
From this perspective, Yarn Expo plays a role as both a
link and bond.” Mr Zhanfeng Chen, Purchasing Manager,
Zhejiang Xinhai Textiles Co., Ltd, China
Yarn Expo Autumn is Asia’s leading trade platform for
the yarn and fibre industry, with quality suppliers from
around the world showcasing natural and blended yarns
including cotton, wool, flax, and man-made fibres and
yarns, as well as specialty products including elastic, fancy
and blended yarns. Last year’s Autumn Edition attracted
493 exhibitors from 13 countries and regions, and 17,185
trade buyers from 84 countries & regions.
The fair is organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd and
the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT. For further
information, please visit: www.yarn-expo-autumn.com.
To find out more about all Messe Frankfurt textile fairs
worldwide, please visit: www.texpertise-network.com.
Yarn Expo Autumn wraps up with 501 exhibitors and over 19,000 visitors

EVENT UPDATE
“SILVER JUBILEE CELEBRATION”
(KUSHALTEXTILE INSTITUTE)
Kushal Textile Institute (KTI), eminent entrepreneurs
training institute in synthetic textile weaving sector, based
at Surat, completed 25 years of their establishment on
Friday, 19th October 2018. To celebrate this remarkable
achievement they had organized a ceremonial function
to felicitate supporters of their success over the period
and few knowledge sharing lectures to acquaint and re-
fresh attendees with Textile industry in Surat and world
as whole.
The Silver Jubilee Celebration function was steered by
MOC Mrs. Maharukh Chichgar, Mr. Tarun Chashmawala
and Mr. Prashant Modi, who with their wit and wisdom
entertained all guests throughout the program.
Mrs. Chichgar started the function with prayer. Later she
invited Mr. Minesh V. Adhvaryu and Mrs. Malini M. Adh-
varyu, Directors of KTI, to lead all esteemed guests on the
dais. All dignitaries enlightened the occasion with lamp
lighting.
Mr. Surendrabhai N. Jariwala, Founder – Yoganand Group
of Industries, was the Chief Guest of the event. Mr.
Kishorchandra N. Jariwala, Direcor – Quality Textile, was
the Guest of Honour. Mr. Sharad Tandon, CEO – STandon
Consulting, was the Key Note Speaker on the special occa-
sion. Mr. Rajnikant Bachkaniwala (President – WISTI), Mr.
Amrishbhai Bhatt (Editor – Textile Graph), Mr. C. Y. Bhatt
(Dy. Commissioner - SMC) and Mr. Ketan Jariwala (Direc-
tor – Quality Textiles) graced the event as Special Invitees.
Mr. Hemal Sakkai (President - KNOT) was also one of the
dignitaries on the dais.
Mr. Minesh Adhvaryu welcomed all dignitaries, invited
guests, students of KTI and members of KNOT to the
event, in his signature style welcome address. Mr. Suren-
drabhai Jariwala was felicitated and welcomed to the
event with bouquet of flowers, a memento and he was
also honoured by presenting a shawl by Mr. Adhvaryu &
Mrs. Adhvaryu. Mr. Kishorchandra Jariwala was also felici-
tated and welcomed to the event with bouquet of flow-
ers, a memento and honoured by presenting a shawl by
Mr. Adhvaryu & Mrs. Adhvaryu. Mr. Sharad Tandon was
welcomed and felicitated with bouquet of flowers and
a memento by Mr. Kushal Adhvaryu (Executive Director
– DigiEn InfoSoft LLP). All other dignitaries on dais were
also felicitated and welcomed by presenting bouquets of
flowers and mementos.
Following this, Mr. Minesh Adhvaryu spoke about histo-
ry of KTI. It was established in the year 1993, as Kushal
Weaving & Designing Class, at an experimental small
scale to educate industrialist and entrepreneurs who
were already in the business and wanted to learn techno-
functional details of the synthetic textile weaving busi-
ness. From the very start itself, KTI received very warm
welcoming response from the industry. Many interested
industrialists started attending KTI for their benefit from
the beginning itself.
Mr. Minesh Adhvaryu said he is fortunate to have Mr.
Surendrabhai Jariwala as Chief Guest of this event, as in
the year 1993 Mr. Surendrabhai Jariwala himself did the
opening ceremony of the institute. Starting from then, KTI
has educated more than 1600 entrepreneurs. Mr. Minesh
Adhvaryu concluded his speech with a small documen-
tary filmed on Surat Textiles and role of KTI in it, shot by
famous director Mr. Mehul Surti.
Kushal Network Of Textile (KNOT), alumni association of
KTI was founded in year 2009. Mr. Hemal Sakkai President
of KNOT briefed all guests about KNOT. This month KNOT
entered into 10th year of its journey. So far KNOT has or-

EVENT UPDATE
ganized 62 different events on different topics ranging
from development of Textile industry especially in Surat,
technical seminars, management symposiums to person-
al development and entertainment. KNOT was grateful to
have had many renowned personalities of world on its
platform. KNOT has been continuously working for bet-
terment of its members as well as Surat Textile industry.
After this, the pillars and supporters in the success of KTI
were felicitated by dignitaries on the dais. There were
around 25 persons felicitated with mementos by KTI
for their continued and valued support to the institute
throughout its journey. All these guests felt honoured
and were quite happy for their recognised support.
On this auspicious event, there was Curtain Raiser event
of DigiEn InfoSoft LLP, an IT company working in the fields
of digitization of enterprises and Information Security of
data critical organizations. Mr. Kushal M. Adhvaryu is Ex-
ecutive Director of DigiEn InfoSoft LLP. Partners and their
families were called upon the dais for the curtain raiser
with dignitaries on the dais. Mr. Surendrabhai Jariwala
unveiled brochure of DigiEn and all dignitaries present on
dais held brochures in their hands to mark the event with
their gesture.
Mr. Kushal Adhvaryu thanked all dignitaries on the dais
for making the moment successful for DigiEn. He also
welcomed and thanked all guests in the audience. He
briefed about DigiEn and its working. DigiEn basically
works for process digitization solutions for SMEs. Flagship
segment of DigiEn – One Umbrella Solution basically has
integrated ERP with other features which cover an organi-
zation as whole and a single software solution runs the
organization. He explained benefits of such solutions and
processes of it.
Mr. Ketan Jariwala congratulated KTI for its achievement
and recalled his experiences with dear friend Mr. Minesh
Adhvaryu. Mr. Amrishbhai Bhatt who also started his
journey of Textile Graph around same period as KTI, re-
called similarities in work of both organizations and their
achievements. He also congratulated KTI for the success.
Mr. Rajnikant Bachkaniwala shared his views on Surat
Textile Industry in present times and its requirements for
prospering further in his speech. Mr. C. Y. Bhatt focussed
on building up good career and his times with Mr. Minesh
Adhvaryu in his speech.
Mr. Sharad Tandon (CEO, Standon Consultancy) in his
keynote address on “Textile Industry – Kal, Aaj Aur Kal”,
said that its not just technology that people need to
change. It’s the mindset of people to do business in dif-
ferent ways with novel ideas also require much attention.
Industrialists need to understand their customers rather
than following trends. Customers have different require-
ments from different manufacturers, the association with
customers teach in which direction production should be
made and how attitude of entrepreneurs should be to-
wards these changes. Technology can be an enforcer in
this process but its not the main requirement of it.
Mr. Kishorchandra Jariwala, Guest of Honour of the event,
presented scenario of Surat Textile industry in his speech.
With his knowledge of the industry, it will not be exag-
geration to call him encyclopaedia of the industry. He
presented many facts and figures in his speech relevant
to the industry and encouraged entrepreneurs to venture
into business with right type of machinery and skills.
Mr. Surendrabhai Jariwala, Chief Guest of the event, said
that Mr. Minesh Adhvaryu is like his son only and he saw
Mr. Adhvaryu progressing throughout his life with dedi-
cation. Mr. Adhvaryu’s perfectionist nature made him
achieve this success and fulfil requirements of Surat Tex-
tile Industry.
Finally, Mr. Minesh Adhvaryu thanked all dignitaries,
guests, students and other agencies for making the event
grand success and attending the event whole heartedly.
He thanked his late parents and family members for their
continued support throughout. He finally thanked his
wife Mrs. Malini Adhvaryu for standing by him in all goods
and bads of professional as well as personal life and en-
couraging him to fulfil the dream.
Later, all guests completed the event with national an-
them.

Ms. Smriti Zubin Irani, Union Textile Minister, stated that
India held a special place in Global Textile Trade as the
2nd largest textile exporter in the world. Today, cotton
yarn & fabric exports account for over 23% of India’s to-
tal textiles and apparel exports. She emphasized that The
Cotton Textiles Export Promotion Council (TEXPROCIL)
should also look at propagating the growth in the MSME
sector, as a third of its members fall under the MSME
category. This has become more relevant in the light of
the announcement made by the Prime Minister on 2nd
November 2018 for the MSME sector. She further stat-
ed that it was for the first time that banking institutions
were directed to give in-principle approvals to loans in
59 minutes. She urged the industry to take the benefit of
ATUF scheme, as provided under the special package of
Rs. 6,000 crore for the made-ups and garments sector.
She assured that the Ministry of Textiles would provide all
types of support to the cotton textile sector in increasing
exports.
She was addressing the gathering as the Chief Guest of
TEXPROCIL Export Awards 2017 2018 in a glittering func-
tion held on 3rd November, 2018 at Mumbai.
The Cotton Textiles Export Promotion Council (TEXPRO-
CIL) presented 56 awards in 32 categories for the best
export performance during 2017-2018. Out of the 36
companies receiving the awards in various categories, 7
companies received the prestigious export award for the
first time. Another novel feature of this year’s awards was
the introduction of the award for the highest employ-
ment generated during fiscal 2017-18, including women
employment.
Shri Ujwal Lahoti, Chairman of the TEXPROCIL stated that
the ongoing trade war between the US and China would
possibly open up new opportunities for the cotton tex-
tile exports from India and we should be ready to ex-
plore them. The Government was also in the process of
putting in place alternate schemes to promote exports
which would improve the competitiveness of the prod-
ucts. These alternate schemes were expected to be WTO
compatible. The alternate scheme would replace earlier
schemes like MEIS etc. and it was believed that the level
of support would not in anyways be lowered.
TEXPROCIL has proposed to include cotton yarn under
the MEIS. The Cotton yarn is a value-added product with
a lot of value addition taking place within the country. The
MEIS for fabrics also needed to be increased from 2% to
4%. TEXPROCIL would also request the Government to in-
clude Cotton yarn and fabrics under the ROSL scheme as
these products also face the incidence of state levies as in
the case of Made ups and Garments. The ROSL scheme
currently covered only state levies. However, there are
also central levies, the burden of which the exporters
have to bear. To make exports competitive, these central
levies also needed to be refunded under a new scheme.
In the current year (April to September 2018), exports of
textiles and clothing have declined by 3% with exports of
readymade garments registering a steep decline of 16%.
However, in this backdrop, it is heartening to note that
exports of cotton textiles have grown by 26.8% in 2018-19
(April to September 2018). During this period, exports of
cotton textiles (raw cotton, yarn, fabrics and made- ups)
touched US$ 6235 million as compared to US$ 4917 mil-
lion in 2017-18.
While proposing Vote of Thanks, Dr. K.V. Srinivasan, Vice
Chairman- TEXPROCIL, stated that although many issues
related with the sector have been addressed, there are
still a few, that require attention and intervention of the
Government.
Shri Ujwal Lahoti welcomed the package for the MSME
sector. Interest subvention on pre-shipment and post-
shipment finance for exports by MSMEs has been in-
creased from 3% to 5%. These measures would provide
much needed support and encouragement to the MSME
sector, which contributed significantly to the textiles ex-
ports. Under the package, GST- registered MSMEs would
get 2% interest rebate on incremental loan up to Rs. 1
crore.
COTTONTEXTILE EXPORT GROWS
BY 26% DURING APRILTO SEPTEMBER 2018
EVENT UPDATE

TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN November issue 2018

TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN November issue 2018

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