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TVC | Feb 2022
V O L U M E 1 0 | I S S U E N O . 0 2 | R S 1 0 0 | P a g e s 1 1 0
BUDGET BONANZA
FEBRUARY 2022
www.textilevaluechain.in
Postal registration No. MNE/346/2021-23, posted at Mumbai Patrika
Channel sorting office, Pantnagar, Ghatkopar (East), Mumbai - 400075
Posting date is end of month ( 29th/ 30th / 31st )
I S S N N O : 2 2 7 8 - 8 9 7 2 | R N I N O : M A H E N G / 2 0 1 2 / 4 3 7 0 7
2 TVC | Feb 2022
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Website: www.lemeriteexports.com
Email id: yarn@lemeriteexports.com
F A
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N
G
G
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N I N G
S P I N N I N
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Y
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W
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A
V I N G
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ektafibers@yahoo.com
2 TVC | Feb 2022
7
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Hosiety
/day
Email:marutitexprocess@gmail.com
www.marutitexprocess.com
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9
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30 TVC | Jan 2022
10 TVC | Feb 2022
Products:
Cotton Ginning and pressing
Ring Spun Yarn:
Leaspin Textile LLP is one of the fastest
growing Textile companies in lnterna-
tional markets
managed by highly skilled
professionals, innovators, qualified &
experienced dedicated Leaders
and workforce.
"Santosh Sadan" New Adarsh Society, Sanala Road,
Morbi - 363641 GUJARAT, INDIA.
Phone : 02822-227345
Factory Add. :
Survey No. 629p5, Jetpar - Aniyari Road, At-Jetpar (Macchu),
Ta. & Dist. Morbi - 363630 GUJARAT, INDIA.
E-mail : leaspinllp@gmail.com, salesleaspin@gmail.com
Count Range: 20s to 45s Combed
Hosiery/ Weaving ,
Combed Compact Hosiery/ Weaving
And Carded yarns
Mr. Dharam C. Patel : +91 99258 45577
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hu),
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14 TVC | Feb 2022
Shree Shiddhanath Cotex Pvt. Ltd.
Shree Shiddhanath Cotex Pvt. Ltd. is a
textile company involved in the
manufacturing of Cotton Yarn from the
Raw Cotton directly from the Farmers.
With the increasing demand and
facilities in textile industry, Shiddhanath
stand out among its competitors in terms
of product quality delivered within
optimum time. With over 500+
employees and workers unite to work at
Shiddhanath, all of them are bound to
meet the company's expectations which
makes the company lead in the textile
industry.
100% Cotton Carded Yarn
(10's to 30's Ne)
PRODUCTS OF YARN
ABOUT SSCPL
Factory Address:
Survey No. 70, Thangadh Road, Chotila to 3 kms.,
At: Nava, Chotila, Dist.: Surendranagar,
Gujarat, INDIA - 363520
We spin to weave your dreams
100% Cotton Carded CompactYarn
(10's to 30's Ne)
100% Cotton Semi Combed
Compact Yarn (16's to 30's Ne)
100% Cotton Combed Compact
Yarn (16's to 30's Ne)
Slub Yarn (10's to 20's Ne)
*All Yarns will be available in Organic, BCI,
PSCP, GRS and RCS.
www.shiddhanath.in
accounts@shiddhanath.com
Ph: +91 422 2562796 | M : 93608 66667 | 93606 65968 | E : textech@textechonline.com
Stall No.A-7
16 TVC | Feb 2022
17
TVC | Feb 2022
Table
of
February
2022
CONTENT
49
51
61
66
79
80
83
86
88
89
92
93
94
25
27
28
29
48
31
35
44
47
ADVERTISER INDEX
COVER STORY
Bonanza Makes Industry Smile
Highlights Union Budget – 2022
Building the Nation with Textiles
NEWS
Turkish Upholstery Leader
opts for montex®coat 26
43% Upturn for Italian Textile
Machinery
Vandewiele Savio India Merger
Finalised
Radianza™ AW22/23 collection
by full thai knitting
INTERVIEW
Yarn orders for Next 3 months
lined up: Jayesh Patel
More Room for Moderni-
sation of textile Industry :
S.K.Chattopadhyay
From Pins to Rollers & much
more, Basant Fibertek
expands : Kishore Khaitan
Sangam India’s Exports Soar
114%, plan big expansion:
Sustainability at the ForeFront
Recycling is the future :
Mr. Chhaganbhai Sangani
INDUSTRY VIEWS
Technical Textile : Processing
of Automotive Fabrics
Industry Focus : Industries
Progressing with Scopes,
Post Covid-19
Swiss Textile Machinery :
Going Digital: Swiss textile
Machinery Shows the Way
Spinning Focus : Unique
Solutions for Processing Viscose
with Air-Jet Spinning
EVENT REPORT
Non Woven Tech Asia
MARKET REPORT
T-shirts, singlets and other vests,
knitted/crocheted export
Textile Machinery Import
Technical Textile Import
Natural Fibre Import
SHOW CALENDAR
Fashion Focus :
Fashion in Formals
Cover Page : Meera
Back Page : Raymond
Back Inside : Raysil
Front Inside : Rimtex
3 : Lemerit
4 : MCX
5: Ekta Fiber
6: Kotak Ginning
7: Maruti Spintex
8 : Fiotex
9: Unitech
10: Le Spin
11: Radheshyam
12: RSB Cottex
13: Hi Spin
14 : Shiddhanath Cotex
15 : TexTech
16: ITM 2022
54-55 : Sky Spintex
56: Phenix
57: Basant Wire
58 : Liva
59 : Avenue
60 : Teraspin
95: LRT
96 : TEXFAIR 2022
97: Niva Export
98: Key Textile
99: Meera
100 : Akshar Spintex
101: Ramkrishna
102: Gimatex
103: Narmada
104: Astra Tech
105 : Shreeram
106: Giriraj / Glossy
107: Rameswar Udyog
108:Dodhia Group
Anjani Prasad
20
S.N. Modani
23
91: Bishnu Texport
85: Amritlakshmi
34: Omax
82: Sakthi Industries
87:Mahalaxmi ceramics
78: Uster
46: Ken india
65: Texfab engineers
30: Saurer
19: Yash machines
18 TVC | Feb 2022
B
All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of any of the content from this issue is
prohibitedwithoutexplicitwrittenpermissionofthepublisher.Everyefforthasbeen
made to ensure and present factual and accurate information. The views expressed
in the articles published in this magazine are that of the respective authors and not
necessarilythatofthepublisher.TextileValuechainisnotresponsibleforanyunlikely
errorsthatmightoccuroranystepstakenbasedintheinformationprovidedherewith.
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EDITOR AND PUBLISHER
Ms. Jigna Shah
EDITORIAL TEAM
MARKETING AND ADVERTISING ENQUIRY
I
ndian industry could breathe a sigh of relief when the
Budget revealed a bonanza for it in many a way. The
allocation for the textile sector for year 2022-23 in the
Union Budget presented on February 1 by the Finance
Minister Nirmala Sitharaman stands at about ₹12,382.14
crore, which is about 8.1 per cent higher than the revised
Budget allocation of 2021-22 of ₹11,449.32 crore Budget
allocation during 2021. Infrastructure has got a big push and
the industry welcomed setting up of seven mega textiles
parks. Private industry will be encouraged to take up military
equipment designing in collaboration with India’s Defence
Research and Development Organisation, which will give a
boost to technical textiles. One can call the year 2022 as a
watershed year since the industry is at crossroads. Now the
only way to consolidate its position in the global market is to
take the path to innovation. If one sees the way the industry
has wriggled out of the Covid crisis, all are of the unanimous
opinion that the best is near at hand. Already, it is out of
the tunnel and basking in the warmth of good gestures
through the Budget by the Government. One main plank no
doubt is the Innovation, which is the answer to all its ills and
stagnation. Innovate all the way to success is the only mantra
to capture the global market in textiles. It can take a leaf out
of the Cematex conviction that Innovation is the heartbeat of
transformation: Start-Up Valley, a new initiative by CEMATEX,
spotlights companies in its early stages of development
with new and game changing solutions and technologies
to support and inspire innovation for the textile, garment
and fashion industry. Transformation is more critical than
ever. What is needed are cutting-edge developments from
research and educational institutes, and the industry.
An exemplary move by the Cematex is the Research &
Innovation Lab which will be the ideal platform for research
and educational organisations, and the industry to showcase
the latest exciting developments as well as to collaborate
with top brands and like-minded businesses from around
the world.
Make in India can create 60 lakh new jobs, says
the Indian Government. Self-reliance in textile technologies
is an important step, among other measures to achieve it.
Indian yarn has received many accolades. The fabric and
garment sectors are not far behind. And if the technologies
also lift all these segments with innovation, there’s nothing
like it. Innovate or emulate or collaborate, to realise these,
the mindset must change. Industries in India have done the
impossible all their way to glory. And why not this traditional
industry of textiles in the land of talents and capability to
surmount all the odds and win its share of glories.
Innovate or Emulate
CREATIVE DESIGNER
Mr.Anant Jogale
CONTENT WRITER
Ms. Muskaan Valecha
ADVISOR - EDITORIAL & MARKETING
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www.yashtex.com sales@yashtex.com
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MACHINES FOR DELICATE FABRICS
Elastic, Knits, Lycra
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Model: IRE
TVC | Feb 2022
COVER STORY
BONANZA MAKES INDUSTRY SMILE
T
he allocation for the textile sector for year
2022-23 in the Union Budget presented on
February 1 by the Finance Minister Nirmala
Sitharaman stands at about ₹12,382.14 crore,
which is about 8.1 per cent higher than the revised
budget allocation of 2021-22 which stands at about
₹11,449.32 crore. Budget allocation during 2021-22
initiallywas₹3,631.64crore,butitwaslaterrevisedto
₹11,449.32 crore mainly due to increased allocation
for procurement of cotton by Cotton Corporation of
India (CCI) under ‘Price Support Scheme’ from ₹136
crore initially to ₹8,439.88 crore. For financial year
2022-23, the allocation is ₹9,243.09 crore, which is
about 9.5 per cent higher than revised allocation of
last year.
In the present Budget, the government has allocated
about ₹133.83 crore for Textile Cluster Development
Scheme, and hence the total budget allocation for
Research and Capacity Building in textiles increased
by 73.4 per cent to reach about ₹478.83 crore in
2022-23, as compared to revised budget allocation
of ₹276.10 crore in 2021-22. The recently announced
Production Linked Incentive (PLI) scheme and PM
Mega Integrated Textile Region and Apparel (PM
MITRA) scheme also saw an allocation of ₹15 crore
each for 2022-23.
Thegovernmenthasalsoallocated₹105croreforthe
year 2022-23 towards Raw Material Supply Scheme,
which has already been approved for implemen-
tation during period from 2021-22 to 2025-26.
The main increase is for cotton procurement by
Cotton Corporation of India under the price support
scheme. The Cotton Corporation will see allocation
of ₹9,243 crore for the next financial year as against
₹8,440 crore in the revised budget allocation for the
current year. This is for the committed liability of the
government to the Corporation, said an official.
On duties levied, with no changes in the 10%
import duty on cotton, the industry’s expectation of
About 8.1% higher allocation, Rs 134-cr allocation for Cluster Development
Scheme, and a big push to Infrastructure are some of the bold steps taken in the
Budget for 2022-23 that have made the industry smile with satisfaction.
NIRMALA SITHARAMAN
Finance Minister of India
TVC Editorial Team
20
21 TVC | Feb 2022
measures to control cotton prices, which is the raw
material, was not met. Trimmings, embellishments,
labels and the like that attract 5% import duty will
now be available as duty-free imports for exporters
of textiles and leather garments. But it seems
made-ups and home textiles have been excluded
from the duty-free import of trimmings, etc.
At present, machinery such as for knitting and
weaving machines are included in the list of
machines having Concessional Custom Duty of 5%.
All these machines will attract 7.5% import duty.
Industry sources said customs duty includes the ad
valorem tax and specific duty. The specific duty is
likely to be rationalised for certain fabric items and
removed for some of the garments.
The industry welcomed setting up of seven mega
textiles parks under MITRA, and duty reduction on
nylon raw materials. However, the levy of 10% import
duty on cotton saw mixed reactions. The Budget
also puts emphasis on infrastructure development
and research & capacity building as the grant for
these sectors has been increased by about 43.7%
and 77.5%, respectively, compared to last year.
The Clothing Manufacturers Association of India
(CMAI) the apex association of the apparel industry
of the country has welcomed the Union Budget
as positive and growth oriented for the Apparel
Industry. Mr Rakesh Biyani, President, CMAI said
that the most important step in this Budget for the
Textile Industry was the removal of the Anti-dumping
duty on PTA, which was a long-standing demand of
the Textile Manufacturing Value Chain, as PTA is
a crucial input for polyester production. This will
potentially open up the MMF Value Chain, and give
a fillip to the entire MMF industry and enhance its
global competitiveness. Technical Textiles, Home
Furnishing, Sportswear Industry, Sarees, Dress
Materials etc., will all benefit greatly from this move.
This move has the potential of being an important
game changer for the MMF segment of the industry.
Mr Biyani further stated that other than this, there
are several other measures which could benefit the
Textile Industry, but which appear to be work in
progress at this point of time – such as the Technical
Textile Mission, a review of the Rules of Origin
especially in our FTAs, a review of cheap imports of
goods being made by our MSME Sector, refund of all
the Taxes and Levies for Exports, and the targeting of
making every District an Export hub. The proposed
financing of Invoices of the MSME Sector could again
be a huge benefit to the industry, which is largely
comprised of the MSME Units. If indeed all these
plans fructify as per the stated goals and objectives,
this could be a landmark Budget for the Industry.
This year’s Budget allocates Rs 700 crore for
Amended Technology Upgradation Scheme (ATUFs)
against Rs 545 crore in the last one, which will help
clear the pending capital subsidy. It earmarks Rs
30 crore for Export Promotion Studies against Rs
5 crore in the last Budget, and Rs 100 crore for
Integrated Scheme for Skill Development. “With the
active support and cooperation of the government,
the textile industry will become globally competitive,
attract large investments and boost employment
generation and exports in the years ahead,” the
Northern India Textile Mills’ Association (NITMA)
President Sanjay Garg said. “Basic customs duty
(BCD) rates on caprolactam, nylon chips and nylon
fibre and yarn will be uniformly reduced to 5% to
spur textile industry, MSMEs, and exports,” he said.
“The Production Linked Incentive (PLI) scheme
for man-made fibres and technical textiles with a
total outlay of Rs10,683 crore will help the textile
industry become globally competitive, attract large
investments and boost employment generation.
Moreover, to achieve the target of $350 billion from
the current size of $167 billion, our manufacturing
sector has to grow in double digits on a sustained
22
TVC | Feb 2022
basis. Our manufacturing companies need to
become an integral part of global supply chains,
possess core competence and cutting-edge technol-
ogy,” CITI chairman Rajkumar said. He added that
the reduction in customs duty on caprolactam, nylon
chips and nylon fibre and yarn to 5 % is a step in the
right direction, as it will bring nylon chain on a par
with polyester and other man-made fibres.
The associations appealed to the Prime Minister
to immediately withdraw the levy of 10% import
duty on cotton and cotton waste to sustain the
global competition, prevent job losses and fall
in the exports and also curb cheaper imports of
value-added products from the SAFTA countries like
Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, etc.
Earlier, The Clothing Manufacturers Association
of India - CMAI - wholeheartedly welcomed the
decision taken at the GST Council’s meeting to defer
the proposed increase of GST Rate from 5% to 12%
on all items of textiles and garments. CMAI has been
continuously raising its voice against the proposed
increase especially on Garments, and especially at a
time when the industry is reeling under one of the
most severe cost increases in recent years, and is
just about struggling to emerge out of the effects of
the Covid pandemic.
Rajesh Masand, President, said “During the last
couple of months we have met and explained
our viewpoints to almost all the Central and State
Finance Ministers, and we are extremely grateful
that they have accepted our concerns and decided
to defer the proposed increase”. “Our grateful
thanks in particular to the Union Minister of Finance,
Ms Nirmala Sitharamanji, for her understanding of
the disastrous impact on the industry if this increase
had come through, and supporting the decision to
defer it in the Council Meeting” he added.
Rahul Mehta, Chief Mentor and Past President
thanked the Hon. Minister of Textiles Mr Piyush
Goyal and the Minister of State for Textiles Ms
Darshanaben Jardosh, and the Textile Ministry, for
their strong support to the cause of the industry.
“Without their support, this decision would not have
been possible, and our sincere thanks to them”.
President Masand also thanked the Trade Associa-
tions across the country who got the voice of lakhs
of Manufacturers and Retailers to be heard by the
Government.
However, CMAI has cautioned that the decision to
increase the Rates has only been postponed to the
next Council Meeting, and reiterated their resolve
to continue partnering with the Government on all
issues such that win-win solutions emerge on all
issues faced by the industry.
23 TVC | Feb 2022
HIGHLIGHTS UNION BUDGET –
2022/23
COVER STORY
• Action on climate and transition to clean energy
as part of a national master plan that will also
lead to logistics efficiency (195 billion rupees
production-linked incentives for solar modules.)
{Solar infrastructure Projects in Textile Mills are
encouraged}
• Gati Shakti - seamless building of infrastructure
projects and improving ease of doing business
(The budget allots 480 billion rupees for a hous-
ing plan, including affordable housing, in urban
and rural areas) {Technical Textile stream for de-
velopment of Sound proof fabrics, Furnishing/
Home Textiles, introduction of textile fibre com-
posite grids for roof, etc needs to be focused}
• India will expand highways by 25,000 kilometers
{Scope for Geo-textiles, and fabrics for canopies
along these highways for villagers to sale their lo-
cal branded products and also for Petrol Pumps/
Electric charging stations}
• India’s plan to become a Smartphone and elec-
tronics manufacturing base for the world, an al-
ternative to China. (Duty concessions for some
electronics manufacturer) {Efforts to be taken
through start-ups for incorporation of Smart
Electronic items/gadgets on the existing textile
machines for upgrading their performance/auto-
mation}
• Improvement of health infrastructure –is stag-
nant at around 2%, according to the Economic
Survey released this week (A national tele-mental
health programme) {medical textiles can be pro-
moted in these infrastructure}.
• ‘Parvat Mala’ -- building roads and highways
in India’s mountainous region stretching from
north to north eastern India {scope for using En-
gineered textiles in the form of safety items like
parachutes in emergency, safety apparels, etc}
• DEVELOPMENT – AGRI- private partnership in en-
suring farmers get access to new technologies in
agriculture. {projects like Manufacturing of Ba-
nana fibre and its products, silk, wool, innovative
textiles at fibre stage, organic farming, etc can be
focused/undertaken}
• “Drone as a service” ‘Drone Shakti” {Drones/fly-
ing Robots can be used to reach at places which
are in-hygienic /very troublesome to access in
textile departments like Wet-Processing/Spin-
ning, etc, ITAMMA is on the process of using this
technology for International Hybrid Delegation/
MR. N.D. MHATRE
Director General (Tech.)
ITAMMA
24
TVC | Feb 2022
Technology Scouting Missions}
• interlinking five rivers in central and northern In-
dia {The scope for Engineered Textiles for filter
fabrics/Geo-textiles/Landscape fabrics, etc is de-
veloped}
• Emergency credit guarantee for MSMEs is being
expanded for the hospitality industry and extend-
ed until March 2023. {will definitely help MSMEs to
come out of their expected debts and overcome
the survival stage to growth}
• Digital education in a big way. 200 TV and digital
channels to support learning in Indian languages,
a digital university {this arrangement can be made
used to establish the Indian machine catalogues/
literature, etc. at the international platform thus
helping the viewer/user to be more user-friendly
with the content and thus may develop the scope
of new markets}
• three recently launched plans aimed at welfare of
women {will be useful especially for Handloom/
Handicraft/Cottage Textile Industry where in-
volvement of women on higher side}
• Rs 60000CR in the budget to drinking water
{scope for filter fabrics/recycled fibres for making
glasses/bottles, etc}
• proposes to start 400 new “Vande Bharat” trains
in three years {Scope developed for the Engi-
neered textiles utilized in the trains; furnishing/
bed-sheets/covers/, etc}
• India’s post offices will be brought on core bank-
ing system for better financial inclusion (target of
150,000 post offices into digital financial transac-
tion systems, (digital ecosystem)
• Chemical-free natural farming will be promoted
throughout the country. (Zero Budget Natural
Farming - the cost of growing and harvesting
plants is zero, as no purchase of fertilizers and
pesticides) {Lower duty on some chemicals}
• India will use clean tech to improve public trans-
port in urban areas (electric vehicles) {suburban
railway networks, EV charging stations etc. will
create demand for technical textiles}
• task force for recognizing potential in the anima-
tion, visual effect, gaming sector to open up em-
ployment opportunities (may be exploited for tex-
tile designing field}
• Private industry will be encouraged to take up
military equipment designing in collaboration
with India’s Defence Research and Development
Organisation (65% of the sector capex for local
companies in the annual budget) {scope for Engi-
neered textiles is developed}
• digital rupee using blockchain technology by the
central bank in 2022-23 boost India’s startup eco-
system (extends tax incentive for startups up to
March 2023)
• Revokes anti dumping duty for some steel prod-
ucts (will help the Textile Engineering Industry}
• Make in India can create 60 lakh new jobs, public
issue of LIC is expected shortly.
Capex target expanded by 35.4 per cent — from Rs
5.54 lakh crore to Rs 7.50 lakh crore. FY23 effective
capex seen at Rs 10.7 lakh crore
India’s growth highest among all major economies;
we are now in a strong position to withstand
challenges
The goal is complementing macro-growth with
micro-all-inclusive welfare, digital economy
and fintech, tech-enabled development, energy
transition and climate action
ECLGS cover expanded by Rs 50,000 to Rs 5 lakh
crore
Top focus of the budget this year are: PM Gati Shakti,
Inclusive Development, Productivity Enhancement,
Sunrise Opportunities, Energy Transition, Climate
Action, Financing of investments
Productivity-linked incentive schemes in 14
sectors have received excellent response; received
investment intentions worth Rs 30 lakh crore
Economic recovery benefitting from public
investment and capital spending. This Budget will
provide impetus to growth
In 2022-23, states will be allowed fiscal deficit of up
to 4 pc of GSDP
Reference : The Economic Times
ECONOMY UPDATE
25 TVC | Feb 2022
India is a dream whose time has come. The develop-
ment of New India and with a focus on self-reliance
is the key to its growth story. The textile sector being
a major contributor to the GDP of the country also
stands aligned with offering its services for the
growth of the nation, says Dr. Mohit Raina.
Most recently, the Honorable Finance Minister Ms.
Nirmala Sitharaman presented the Union Budget.
Infrastructure spend of about Rs. 10 lakh crore in the
Budget of 2022-23 will help propel the growth of the
country as infrastructure acts as a growth multiplier.
With the National Infrastructure Pipeline (2020-25)
envisaging an investment of Rs 111 lakh crore, the
target annual investment ranges between Rs 20-22
lakh crore. National highways will be expanded by
25,000 km during 2022 and the national ropeway
development programme will be taken up in the
public-private-partnership (PPP) mode. In spite
of these investments, corrosion and dilapidation
of these structures poses a severe threat to these
developments. A study carried out R. Bhaskaran,
N. Palaniswamy, and N.S. Rengaswamy published
in the Corrosion Reviews 2009 evaluated the cost
of corrosion in India to have escalated from 1960
to 1986 by 26-fold and the estimate was pegged
at a value of Rs. 40760 million in 1986. Comparing
annual cost of corrosion with GDP over the era of
newly independent India from 1950-1990, corrosion
contributed to about 5.95% the GDP of the country
annually. With the growth in the infrastructure
sector and the impetus given, we as a country need
to make sure that in New India we apply advanced
materials to resolve this challenge faced by our very
own selves by learning from the past.
One might wonder as to what the contribution of
the textile community would be to this infrastruc-
ture growth. In fact, the textile industry is the
only industry, which can help build a sustaina-
ble infrastructure by means of fibres, textiles
conventionally known as technical textiles. If nature
were to be taken as a benchmark, textile and fibrous
structures are the ones which provide nature with
BUILDING THE NATION WITH
TEXTILES
Dr. Mohit Raina, Managing Director
RAINA INDUSTRIES PRIVATE LIMITED.
COVER STORY
26
TVC | Feb 2022
its sustainability. It is time that we seriously begin to
learn from nature and create sustainable structure
with fibres and textiles. The commonly known
names like Buildtech, GeoTech and Marinetech are
synonymous to sustainability in the infrastructure
domain.
Currently, extensive amounts of steel reinforced
concrete are being used for building structures
all across India. A major challenge faced by steel
reinforced concrete is the corrosion resistance of
the steel in the coastal areas of India. India has a
coastline of 7,517 km. The temperature in the coastal
regions often exceeds 30°C (86°F), and is coupled
with high levels of humidity. Annual rainfall in this
region averages between 1,000 and 3,000 mm (39
and 120 in). These extreme climatic conditions have
a great effect on the reinforced structures. Hence,
the reinforced structures have to be replaced and
restored after every couple of years. The textile
component as a reinforcement provides the
necessary high tensile strength in a concrete matrix.
This leads to an appropriate load carrying capacity
for applications in infrastructure. The reinforcement
can be realised with short fibre or with long fibre
textile structures.
The initial contributors comprised of short fibre,
generally polypropylene, glass fibres, which were
introduced into the concrete matrix. These short
fibre reinforcements provide localised reinforce-
mentbutduetotheirrandomplacementtheyreduce
crack propagation in concrete and are not suitable
as elements carrying loads. Research has been
carried out to use long fibre/ filaments as structural
reinforcement. Use of textiles and fibres can help
the reduction of the concrete consumption by up
to 80% and also reduction of steel by up to 75%. In
addition to corrosion resistance the major advantag-
es of textiles and fibres are their better performance
characteristics in terms of their strength-weight
ratio, durability, flexibility, insulating and absorption
properties, and fire and heat resistance. Contribu-
tion in sectors such as roadways with soil reinforce-
ment, embankment reinforcement, asphalt stability
etc., railways with applications ranging from laying
the track sleepers to making the railway coach and
its interiors, bridges with applications like carbon
fibre strengthening to glass fibre reinforcement are
going to play a crucial role in building this country.
This application will however not only need
production, engineering but also formulation of
building and construction IS Codes and guidelines
for their successful applications. Cross-sectoral
collaboration; within Ministries, certifying agencies,
research institutes, engineers, operator, manufac-
turers and onsite contractors, is needed to facilitate
this paradigm shift and transformation in India.
India is a dream whose time has come and with
the policies aligned towards building a sustainable
country, fibres and textiles will definitely play their
part.
www.textileappareljobs.com
27 TVC | Feb 2022
TURKISH UPHOLSTERY LEADER
OPTS FOR MONTEX®COAT
Turkish powerhouse in home textiles and furnish-
ing fabrics Altun Tekstil has just commissioned
the first Montex®Coat coating system in Turkey.
The advanced machine has been installed at the
ever-expanding family-owned company’s industrial
complex in Bursa and is being employed to provide
an anti-slip and textured backing to upholstery
fabrics with a stable and uniform foam, via
knife-over-roller coating.
Founded in 1993, Altun exports its fabrics to more
than 60 countries, with its major export markets
being Russia and Ukraine, as well as many Middle
Eastern and European countries. Its integrated
operations include the production of texturized
yarns, weaving and raschel knitting, in addition to
dyeing and finishing. With a major focus on tulle
curtains and upholstery, the company’s fabric range
also extends to a wide variety of apparel styles.
“Despite the current market conditions, our
investments continue to increase,” said company
owner Murat Altun. “We have established both a
knit and woven fabric dyehouse and an integrated
upholstery fabric weaving factory, where in 2022 we
will also backward integrate into synthetic filament
spinning from chips. In the longer term, we plan to
bring all of our operations together in a single facility
of 350,000 square metres, to employ approximately
10,000 people. We have new investment targets that
aim to further reduce our dependence on overseas
suppliers and enable us to do everything within our
own operations.”
AltunhasinstalledeightMonfongsstentersinvarious
widths at its two plants since 2016 – coincidentally
the year Monforts Turkish representative Neotek
was founded. “We have worked with Neotek from
the start and both its service and the product quality
with Monforts technology are extremely satisfy-
ing,” said Plant Manager Mehmet Mor. All of the
stenters are engineered for specific product lines
and the Montex®Coat unit is integrated into the
latest of these lines, which has a maximum working
width of 2.2 metres and eight chambers. “With the
Montex®Coat unit Altun is able to achieve an even
foam application at high speed which results in a
very economic process,” said Monforts Sales Manger
Thomas Päffgen.
The fully integrated line benefits from universal
control technology and the unique Monforts visuali-
sation system. The Montex®Coat’s borderingsystem
has been optimised for enhanced user-friendliness,
while the doctor blade adjustment range is the most
precise available on the market.
Altun Plant Manager Mehmet Mor at the controls of the new machine. The fully integrated line benefits from the unique Monforts visualisation
system.
NEWS
28
TVC | Feb 2022
The Montex®Coat unit enables an even foam application to be
achieved at high speeds.
The coater is installed at the front of the eighth Monfongs Montex
stenter supplied to the company.
43% UPTURN FOR ITALIAN
TEXTILE MACHINERY
T
he index of orders intake for Italian textile
machinery for the fourth quarter of 2021,
processed by ACIMIT, the Association of Italian
Textile Machinery Manufacturers, showed a 43%
upturn compared to the same period in 2020. In
absolute terms, the index stood at 127.9 points
(base 100 in 2015).
This growth was spurred on by both the Italian
and foreign markets. More specifically, domestic
orders were up 83% compared to the period
October-December 2020, for an absolute value of
234.6. Orders collected abroad grew by 36%, for an
absolute index value equal to 116.4.
On an annual basis, the index of orders intake
increased by 95%, for an absolute value of 128
points. The increase in orders abroad was 79%,
while orders collected for domestic market were up
204% compared to what was observed in 2020.
Alessandro Zucchi, President of ACIMIT, comment-
ed the results of the survey: “We’re experiencing a
recovery in the sector that we didn’t quite expect.
Production has returned to pre-Covid levels, while
foreign demand has been robust in most markets,
and in Italy it has benefited from the Government
Transition 4.0 incentives.” However, the many orders
to be filled are now a cause for concern, given the
scarce availability of components and raw materials
due to the interruption of supply chains. Added to
this is the sharp rise in the cost of energy.
Thus, 2022 is expected to be a year in which
optimism and foreboding still prevail for the Italian
textile machinery sector, pending ITMA 2023, the
world’s most important textile machinery exhibition,
scheduledtobeheldinMilaninJune2023.“Themany
registered Italian manufacturers are an important
signal,” concludes ACIMIT’s President, adding that,
“ITMA Milan will mark a definitive relaunching of
the textile machinery sector, and will confirm Italy’s
leadership in the field of textile technologies. This
will be a must opportunity for all Italian businesses.”
ALESSANDRO ZUCCHI
ACIMIT
29 TVC | Feb 2022
VANDEWIELE-SAVIO INDIA
MERGER FINALISED
Vandewielen & Savio India announced that they
had finalised the merging process, creating a global
network for their customers. The two companies will
operate under the new name of Vandewiele-Savio
India Private Limited. “We are convinced that these
joined forces provide a comprehensive network
of integrated services that will better serve our
customer’s needs for the Indian market”.
This strategic alliance is set to immensely benefit the
Indian textile industry, as the expertise from these
two leading groups, offering complete weaving,
winding, twisting solutions to the Indian customers,
will give them a sustainable competitive advantage
in their business.
About Vandewiele
Vandewiele builds carpet looms, velvet looms,
jacquard machines and integrate innovative textile
systems for flooring qualities, home linen, fashion
fabrics and technical textiles. Sharing inspiration and
expertise with our customers worldwide, we shape
the textile industry of the future. Creating success
for them all, from yarn to finished product.
Our Research and Development department and
test-engineers are continuously developing new
applications. The innovative breakthroughs of
Vandewiele give a boost to the textile industry.
About SAVIO
Over its 110+ years history, Savio acted as
technological leader and most innovative player
in attractive niches of the textile value chain. Savio
leverages on the best value-for-money proposition
in the industry. It has a consolidated presence in all
relevant geographies with a local-for-local approach,
allowing Savio to promptly address market demand
and requirements. Savio is specialized in the textile
machinery sector for the yarn finishing segment
being the leading supplier of winding and twisting
machines with manufacturing plants
in Italy, China and India. Savio India, the advanced
TFO manufacturing set up of Savio group in India,
will continue to provide and ensure state of the art
Customer Support and Spare Parts Services.
Vandewiele-Savio India Private Limited
The merger of the Group activities has resulted
in a wide range of synergies in the service, care
solutions and developments, with benefits for the
customers. VANDEWIELE-SAVIO INDIA Is ready to
provide the region with high class Textile machines
with cost effectiveness and the best support.With
its corporate office located at Coimbatore with a
strength of about 250 people and sales and service
offices at Coimbatore, Ludhiana, Ahmedabad,
Kolhapur and Thane covering the whole product
range of the group .This will enforce the support and
strength towards the company’s Indian customers
and increase its customer centricity.
NEWS
Autocard
The new Autocard has been
developed to create further value
in the fibre preparation chain.
The flexible portfolio offers the
right solutions for preparation of
all kinds of staple fibres for the
subsequent processes.
The right combination of blow
room and carding ensures
excellent fibre utilisation and
sliver quality for high efficiency
and yarn quality in spinning.
saurer.com
Be prepared.
Ad-Autocard-TextileValueChain-8.5x11in-EN-220207.indd 1
Ad-Autocard-TextileValueChain-8.5x11in-EN-220207.indd 1 07.02.22 12:27
07.02.22 12:27
TVC | Feb 2022
Omax Cotspin Pvt. Ltd, located at Dhrangadhra, Gujarat, is one of the fastest
growing textile companies in international markets with all the modern integrated
facilities in 25 acres of land with 75000 spindle age capacity.
Jayesh Patel, Director at Omax Cotspin, replied to a questionnaire sent by the
Textile Value Chain. Excerpts:
YARN ORDERS FOR
NEXT 3 MONTHS
LINED UP :
JAYESH PATEL
What were the Challenges that you faced
during the Pandemic? How did you handle
them?
D
uring the first wave of Covid-19, it was weak
demand: we were feeling that demand has
weakened across most of the industries due
to weak consumer sentiment, job losses, and as
consumers defer their non-discretionary purchases
andfocusonbuyingessentialitems.Thesupplychain
disruptions: The curb on movement of people and
non-essential goods has affected the supply chain,
leading to shortage of raw materials. The coronavi-
rus outbreak in major raw material supplying has
affected due to movement of raw materials across
the country.
Labour/capacity underutilization: The exodus
of unemployed migrant laborers to their native
places has further added to the ongoing problems
of industries. The worry remains whether they will
return to work soon given their recent traumatic
experience of job losses and travel hardships. The
shortage of manpower and shorter duration of
work hours have affected the capacity utilization of
industries and there is no clear sign when normalcy
will return due to the ongoing uncertainty about
finding a cure for the pandemic.
Workforce health and business in “New Normal”:
Maintaining the health of workers in “New Normal”
also remains a challenging task for industries in the
absence of proper guidelines.
They had to temporarily shut down due to
the coronavirus pandemic. ... For established
companies, the challenges came from increased
administrative bottlenecks, and issues with reduced
logistics services and infrastructures,
The complete lockdown and partial lockdowns
had both demand-side and supply-side impacts on
the manufacturing sector. On the supply side, the
limited movement of goods, services, and personnel
affected the production network.
The situation improved gradually and confidence
towards the business outlook for production rose as
a phased reopening of the economy was announced.
However, with this recovery and subsequent gradual
reopening of the economy, the country succumbed
to a second wave of the virus.
INTERVIEW
31
32 TVC | Feb 2022
A second wave was witnessed towards the end
of the 2020 financial year. The country’s optimis-
tic recovery was thrust into further uncertainty as
cases increased far more rapidly than the first wave.
The fatality rate amongst individuals increased as
several States introduced restrictions and curfews
to mitigate the loss of life in the second wave.
Healthcare infrastructure in the country faced a
total collapse as citizens ran helter-skelter in search
of beds, oxygen cylinders, and resources to survive
the second wave.
This widespread devastation further instilled fear
amongst the citizens as new variants proved to be
more potent leading to a mass breakout in the Tier
I cities and a surge in the rural regions. This led to
individuals being confined to their homes, more out
of choice and fear. The number of people working
during the second wave was much smaller as
compared to those working during the first wave,
which translated to slower economic recovery. With
lockdowns slowly being reimposed, States allowed
certain relaxations and permissions to keep the
economic impact to a minimum.
While the second wave is expected to upset
economic growth, the overall impact is expected
to be moderate as businesses and States have
adjusted their businesses and cycles to the COVID
situation prevalent.
In the handling of pandemic corona, we ensured
effective communication with employees. How
leaders behave during critical moments leaves
a lasting mark on their companies and people.
Therefore, a consistent and effective communica-
tion and interaction with employees have strength-
en the company and enhanced the culture. We
shared the up-to-date and relevant information
about COVID-19 symptoms and disease prevention
recommendations among company employees. We
used only credible sources of information, such as
the World Health Organization. We have established
a dedicated hotline or conduct a series of remote
seminars with relevant health professionals to
facilitate question and answer sessions with your
employees.
Besides, we provided a psychological and financial
support to our employees, such as emergency
assistance, additional insurance coverage, regular
payroll payments. We focused on organising a safe
work environment: purchase of medical equipment
and supplies (e.g., thermometers, antibacterial
products such as mask sanitizer), self-monitoring of
employees’ health, and disinfection of workplaces.
We developed and communicated clear rules and
obligations for employees who are at risk These
include the requirement for a 14-day self-isolation
of such employees and cancellation of all meetings
with the clients and co-workers. We have ensured
the safety of working environments by thoroughly
cleaning and disinfecting workplaces. In the event
that an employee is suspected of being infected
with COVID-19, a clear process must be in place for
removing that employee from the facility, and for
proper treatment of the facility. We updated our
travel and meeting policies.
Besides, we made sure that your social media policy
is properly defined for this crisis. It is provided clear
guidelines with regard to how employees can talk
about your business and the impact of COVID-19
on operations and employee health and safety. We
providedemployeeswithaninternalcommunication
channel to report what they are seeing and feeling
within the organisation to ensure direct communi-
cation as an alternative to social media. We worked
through the most difficult scenarios and prepared
appropriate communications for our employees in
advance because our task is to provide a construc-
tive response.
As you are involved in 3 sectors: Garment,
Fabric & Yarn, so how is the situation now?
The domestic textile industry, which had seen
demand slump in fiscal 2021 owing to onset of
the Covid-19 pandemic, is firmly on course to
recover in fiscal 2022 on the back of reopening
of businesses, educational institutions and retail
outlets with increase in the vaccinated population.
The Government announcements such as the
Production Linked Incentive scheme, setting up of
mega textile parks, and extension of the Rebate of
State and Central Taxes and Levies scheme are also
supporting the sector. The global textile industry is
changing to meet the needs of the new market. With
new trends in technology, domestic sales, green
textiles and environmental sustainability, textiles
will no longer just be clothing anymore. These
33
TVC | Feb 2022
new trends have started to increase growth in the
market as well.
We recognised both the opportunity and the
responsibility for business to take a lead role in
addressing pressing global issues. As we continue
to embrace change and position our company for
long-term success, we believe that CR will help
us achieve sustainable growth by managing risk,
maximizing efficiency and driving value. Through
our collective efforts, we seek to create value for
society, the environment, and our business, all
while moving the industry. Explore opportunities
for automation and efficiency upliftment as well
as plan and implement up-skilling of employees
to prepare them for the re-engineered processes/
systems.
There is a high demand for yarn. There are orders for
the next three months lined up. The textile industry
continues to be the second-largest employment
generating sector in the India
Tell us about the Research and Development
efforts in the last few years.
We have undertaken a CO 2 PROJECT to reduce
CO2 emissions and energy consumption for our
suppliers to stabilise our environmental impact.
We have launched a GREEN COMPACT PROJECT.
We have converted normal spinning into compact
spinning yarn to increase the production, quality
to value addition. We have presented recycled
product.
Rotor spinning also known as open-end spinning
has been taken up. It uses a carded sliver that is
fed onto a succession of single-spiked rollers that
run at high speed. These rollers open the sliver so
that the fibres can be fed almost individually via an
airstream onto a grooved funnel that spins at a fast
rate.
In Compact spinning, the Elite Compact spinning
system incorporated for 23000 spindles, which
organises fibres in a parallel, close position before
twisting, thereby reducing hairiness and improving
tenacity. It also reduces imperfections. It improves
evenness and reduces the ends-down rate.
What about the technologies and machinery
for all the segments?
We have installed bobbin transport system in unit
1 spinning. We have incorporated spindle monitor-
ing system. The mill has installed pinters individual
monitoring system. This helps us in avoiding rough
spindles idle spindles. the automatic winders are
connected with visual manager and integrated with
smart support system. Through this we can monitor
daily performance. We have also incorporated
roving stop motion in all the spinning to control the
roving waste.
Which are the New Products that you have
launched for these 3 Sectors & what are their
USPs?
In yarn: 1. Compact yarn. 2.Recycle yarn. 3.Lycra
yarn. 4.Organic yarn
In Knitting: 1. Rib type. 2.Lycra. 3.Honey comb.
4.Picku. 5.Two thread fleecy. 6.Single rib. 7.Lycra rib.
8.Turbe. Drop needles
In garment: 1. Basic rib neck. 2.T Shirt. 3.P Q-T Shirt.
Brand: Indian Archers
What are the different fabrics and yarns that
you make?
Omax Cotspin has a production line which can
manufacture yarns of various counts ranging from
16s to 50s hosiery weaving yarn. The production
capacity is around 50000 kg per day. We have also
started manufacturing fancy yarns such as LYCRA
& SLUB.
Omax Cotspin has a production line which can
manufacture OE yarns from count range to 4s to
20s with the production capacity of 20000 kg per
day.
In knitting fabrics, Omax Cotspin has extended its
capability into knitting and hosiery fabrics, manufac-
tured with our own best quality of yarn. The fabric
width will be ranging from 18 diameters to 40
diameters. We are also into manufacturing LYCRA &
SLUB Knitted Fabric.
Futureofyourcompanyintheyears2022-2023?
The textile industry is expected to attract higher
investment by 2022-23 and create about 35 million
additional jobs in the process. Exports are also
expected to rise. The upcycle fashion uses either
pre-consumers or post-consumer’s wastes to
manufacture new products. The process reuses old
clothes without going through the recycling process.
The fashion industry is going to be more sustainable
with repaired, redesigned, and upcycled fashion.
34 TVC | Jan 2022
F A R M T O F A S H I O N
F
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1800 - 889 - 6020
info@omaxcotspin.com
www.omaxcotspin.com
Sr. No. 842,843,845/1, Near. Petrol Pump, Village Rajsitapur , Ta. Dhrangadhra Dist. Surendranagar. Gujarat. (INDIA).
35 TVC | Feb 2022
MORE ROOM FOR
MODERNISATION OF
TEXTILE INDUSTRY :
S.K.CHATTOPADHYAY
Share your Education and Professional Journey
I
passedWestBengalHigherSecondaryExamination
in first division in 1974 and was awarded a
National Scholarship. I opted for a professional
engineering degree course in Textile Technology
under Calcutta University and passed the same with
a first class in 1978. I joined Kesoram Cotton Mills
Limited (now, KesoramIndustries Limited) Kolkata
and started my professional career. Thereafter, I
worked in HindoostanSpinning and Weaving Mills
Limited (Thackersey Group) Mumbai in the years
1979-81. I did my full-time Master degree in Textile
Engineering from IIT Delhi in 1983 and joined
the Raebareli unit of U. P. State Spinning Mills Co
No.1 as the Quality Control Incharge. Thereafter,
I cleared the Agricultural Research Services (ARS)
examination and joinedCentral Institute for
Research on Cotton Technology (CIRCOT), then
known as Cotton Technological Research Laborato-
ry (CTRL), Mumbai,under the control ofIndian
Council of Agricultural Research (ICAR). I worked
there in various capacities such as, Scientist, Senior
Scientist, Principal Scientist, Head of the Mechanical
Processing Division and Director, before retiring in
February 2020.Presently, I am working as a freelanc-
er in academics, research journal publication and
machine learning application in factory automation.
Being a researcher and educationist, tell your
journey in industry and research, and the
interaction
The 40-year full time professional journey was
challenging, but engrossing and interesting. The
feeling was exhilarating, as throughout the journey
for about four decades, the technology was
constantly churning and upgrading. I was witness-
ing innovations more often in the industry, and
Dr. S. K. Chattopadhyay retired from CIRCOT in 2020 after having worked for
nearly four decades in various capacities in mills. Presently, he is a freelancer
in academics, research journal publication and machine learning application in
factory automation.
Dr. Chattopadhyay replied exclusively to a Questionnaire sent by the
Textile Value Chain. Excerpts:
INTERVIEW
36
TVC | Feb 2022
there wasurgency to adapt quickly to the changes
and bring out more innovations to be relevant in the
industry. It was indeed a roller coaster ride, which
was immensely satisfyingthen. I presume that the
same was thefeelingof my contemporaries.
When I joined the industry,the basic calculators
were not available in the shop floor and the very first
lesson of the training was to remember square roots
ofall thread numbers and intermediate roving hank
numbers by-heart to facilitate quick twist setting
on the spinning machines. In the quality control
lab, the most prized equipment was Filden-Walker
first generation yarn evenness tester, which is now
a prized collection inthe London Science Museum
and Bradford Industrial Museum (UK).During the
period, thoughmanyspinning millswere aggressively
modernising their machines with Top Arm Drafting
system replacing the iconicCasablanca system, the
mill owners in general were not convinced with
the replacement of old and lengthy blowroom
line with a shorter version equipped with modern
beaters and cleaners, due to high cost associated
with such a replacement. This was the time when
the organised sector was slowly losing the grip on
fabric productionto the rising decentralisedpower-
loom sector. The wet processing of textiles was the
real woe, depending fully on the dyeing masters’
experience and bereft of any concern for the
environment.
After joining CIRCOT in 1985, I initiated a research
programme on causes and control of faults in
Indian cotton yarns,which was then a burning
problem of the spinning industry, regularly
receiving complaintsfrom thegrowing export
markets. We procured an electronic fault classify-
ing equipment which was quite expensive in those
days, and therefore, only two other machines were
available in Mumbai then. My institute also, under
my initiative and supervision,monetised this gap in
the industry, and allowed mills to take advantage
of the facility for assessing their yarns, conducted
a number of diagnostic mill vs. laboratory trials,
androped in students of the textile institutes to do
their dissertationsto investigate the problem and
suggested measures to contain faults in Indian yarn.
It is hearting to note that Indian spinning industry is
now producing the best of the yarn quality, particu-
larly in terms of evenness, imperfections and faults.
Even many mills are achieving a quality better than
the Uster 5% world standard, compared to 25% or
even poorer quality yarns, which many mills were
producing before the 1990s. I think this isto be
regarded as the single most significantachievement
in which I was fully involved, and was collective-
ly brought in by the joint efforts of the industry,
research, and educational institutions.
My field of research broadly included post-harvest
processing and blending of fibres, development
of machines for small sample spinning, modern
spinning systems (rotor, air-jet and DREF friction),
yarn splicing,poly lactic acid (PLA)fibres,technical
textiles, and composites. In mid-1990s, through
some market study, my team found that though
there was a good demand for miniature spinning
machines for producing yarn from small fibre
samples, such machines were not available in India.
The option was to import machines with a pretty
old design, and ata veryhigh price, which was not
desirable. Therefore, me and my team, took up
developing entirely miniature modern spinning
machines, initially controlled by microprocessor,
then by programmable logic control (PLC) and finally,
by personal computer (PC).Though the designing of
the miniature machines was a technically challeng-
ing task which we could successfully do, thefurther
major challenge wasto convince anentrepreneur
to replicate the machines and manufacture them
at one fourth the cost of the imported one. This
challenge was also resolved by us and it gives me
immense satisfaction that, the licensee who collabo-
rated with us has produced and sold more than
hundreds of such machinesto various stakeholders,
who found the system/machineshandy, useful and
economical.
Further, the research done by my team on utilisation
of indigenous short and fine wool including Angora
rabbit-hairs in blends with cotton for production of
finer quality of woven and knitted fabrics, and for
production of finer cotton-ramie blended yarns by
adopting commercial cotton spinning system were
unprecedented, and attracted much attention from
the peers.
We compared the performance of Indian cottons
and their blends on ring, rotor and air-jet spinning
systemsas early as in the 1990s, shortly after
commercialization of the air-jet spinning machines.
37 TVC | Feb 2022
My doctorate thesis has dealt with the formulation
of a theoretical model to predict the fibre twisting-
happening inside a rotating rotor that is inaccessi-
ble and cannot be seen in our view during the rotor
spinning process.The model has emphasised the
need of fibre engineering for quality yarn spinning
and has experimentally validated.
Then, under funding from the National Agricultural
Innovation Project (NAIP), I was the Co-Consorti-
um Project Investigator (CCPI) in two subprojects.
Under the Basic and Strategic Research subproject
of NAIP, I notably participated in the design and
development of textile reinforced rubber dams for
regulating water flow in a watershed for its storage,
ground recharging and assured water supply in
lean times. The development hasmade possibleto
enhance crop productivity and cropping intensity in
the project area, and many units have been installed
in watersheds across the country, benefitting the
farmers. In the other subproject on value chain for
coconut fibre and its by-products, basic machines
for extraction,segregation of coarse and fine fibres,
scientific fibre grading, product diversification have
been achieved.
Besides conducting many industry sponsored
studies, I, along with my colleagues have published-
in national and international journalsand presented
in seminars and conferencesabout 300 research
and technical papers, book chapters and leafletse-
manating from our various research studies.I have
received a number of recognitions and awards for
my contribution in research. In the last leg of my
active research career, I inspired two bright young
scientiststo join me in groundbreaking research
using plant waste bio-macromolecule extractsfor
preparation of sustainableflame resisting and UV
protective cellulosic textiles that has now received
wide international attention. The Latest Science
(Abraham Thomas Foundation, USA) has acknowl-
edged our contributionfor making an impact on
scientific knowledge in Material Science and as a
mark of recognition, displayed on their website,
thesurface topography of the char residue of fire
retardant cellulose reported by us for the first time.
As a Mentor, what qualities and capabilities
you looked for in your post-graduate student-
sand young scientist colleagues while involving
them into research projects and what qualities
you inculcate in them, when they work with
you?
For a good number of years, I co-guided many textile
technologypost-graduate students from reputed
engineering institute like VJTI, Mumbai.Besides, from
time to time, I,as the lead investigator, was guiding
those research fellows and associates recruited
in various time-bound externally funded projects,
including two subprojects of National Agricul-
tural Innovation Project (NAIP) of ICAR, funded
by the WorldBank. In my long service in CIRCOT, I
chose from time to time many younger colleague
scientists and technical officers to be associated in
the investigation of the projects formulated by me
and mentored them. Particularly, when I was the
Director of the institute, I could get about eight new
young scientists to join CIRCOT and mentor them for
research career.
In a young researcher,I always looked for their
thorough involvement in the investigation of the
problem, inclination to be involved in painstaking
experimentations, integrity in data collection and
recordingandlogicalthinking.Mymentoringinvolves
not only in guiding them in conducting a fair investi-
gation, but also in the analysis of collected data,
modification of experiments, repeatand confirma-
tion study, participation in draft report prepara-
tion and publication in a reputed/standard journal.
Often, I have observed that though the technical
and scientific content of research is excellent, but
the paper is denied publication because of its poor
presentation, obscure language and avoidable
errors. Colleges do not teach how to write a good
scientific paper.This task requiresmentoring to the
young researchers onhow to write an error-less and
fluid paperthat will impress upon and convey the
science behind the experiment effectively to the
reviewersand the readers.
With the availability of online ‘Editorial Manager’ and
publication software, most international journals
engagetheservicesof3to10peerreviewerstoreview
a submission, for publication. Often, a manuscript
is rejected due to its poor readability. This was not
much of a problem earlier, as the journal used to
38
TVC | Feb 2022
get it improved by itslanguage editor without any
charge. But many journals have now discontinued
the service, and instead, ask the author to avail a
paid language service. A researcher based in the
third world countries may not find it easy to pay the
charge in dollars of his own. Therefore, as a mentor,
while critically reviewing the technical content in
their papers, Iused to polish and rectify my juniors’
written English language, stressing the need of
writing a research paper in simple sentences, so
that the readability of the manuscript improves.
What are the latest trends and futuristic
developments in the spinning industry?
Ring frame is the oldest and versatile yarn spinning
machine, came into market ever since Whitin
MachineWorksstartedmanufacturingitinthe1840s.
Even though the basic technology of ring spinning
remain largely unchanged, the machine design has
undergone significant developments over the years
for improved performance, as the industry still
prefers it for its capacity to spin a wide range of yarn
count (linear density) from almost any type of staple
fibres. Ring frame producesa unique, superior
quality of yarn compared to those yarns produced
by the newer spinning systems like rotor, air-jet/ air
vortex spinning systems, which are available in the
market for the last 30-50 years. This is despite the
restricted rate of yarn production due to limitations
in spindle speed, high-power consumption, traveller
wear, heat generation and yarn tension.As such, the
productivity of each ring spindle is about 1/10th of
a rotor spinning and 1/20th of the air jet spinning
machines. While the rotor spinning is mostly limited
to coarse yarn production, and the vortex spinning
to polyester blended yarns in the medium to fine
count range, thering spinning can traverse in
allareas of spun yarn production. In fact, its latest
commercially successfulvariant, the compact ring
spinning, introduced by a couple of manufactur-
ers at ITMA 1999 Paris exhibitionis the preferred
machine nowadays.Presently, with about 230
million installed spindles world over, ring spinning is
producing thethree-quarter of the total staple yarn
of around 45 million tons produced. So, one can
safely deduce that the ring spinning will remain the
undisputed leader in the staple yarn production and
continue to dominate the restin this century too.
The maximum spindle speed of themost advanced
spinning frame is currently about 25,000 rpm limited
by the ring-traveller speed of about 45 m/s, beyond
which the traveller gets burnt due to excessive
friction while moving on the ring. Efforts are in full
force in the R&D labs of various machine manufac-
turers and institutions to tackle the criticality of the
process andmake a breakthrough in productiv-
ity. Research is mainly directed in three sensitive
design issues of the ring frame, (i) reduction of
friction between the ring and the traveller, like using
the Orbit technology, where the contact surface
between the ring and traveller has been enlarged
by 4~5times for better heatdissipation (ii)modifying
the ring-traveller system altogether, say by using a
superconducting magnetic bearing (SMB) system to
create a frictionless twisting during spinning, and (iii)
reduction of yarn twist to increase the productivity,
like in Nu-Torque technology, which incorporates a
false twister to lower twisting rate during spinning.
The big question is whether in future anyone or
more such futuristic technology will succeed and
double the ring spindle speed to 50,000 rpm, say by
the year 2050.
Concerning the developments of the preparatory
machines to yarn spinning, the past tendency was
to keep on increasing the production speeds and
simultaneously improving, or at least maintain-
ingthestatus quo in the processed material quality.
Besides a great deal of effortswere put to achieve
a near perfect opening and cleaning, and removing
undesirable short fibres from cotton, auto control of
material uniformity, increasingcapacities of interme-
diate packages, their auto-doffingand auto transport
to the next machine. It appears that spinning
preparatory machines have already reached to
an admirable level of technology and the fact that
the production capacity of preparatory section is
higher than the actual spinning need, will deter the
developments to continue in the similar fashion. In
near future,manyapplications of computer science is
expected. The machines themselves will decide how
to adjust and run optimally based on the analysis of
big past data (machine learning and artificial intelli-
gence) without any interference of the technical
supervisors, as is in the vogue now. Remote supervi-
sion and servicing of machines (Internet of Thing)
will get significant importance. I will elaborate these
terms in the later part of my interview. The advent
of robots in large scale is also not ruled out, as the
39 TVC | Feb 2022
absolute purity of fibre processing to spin yarns can
be best preserved, if human beings refrain from
touching fibres and manipulating them.
How has the textile industry technologically
evolved in the last few years?
The industry needs enormous drivingforce to equip
itself with the latest technologies and upgrades,
as the action is highly capital intensive. The sector
has become the most severely affected among
manufacturing sectors due to the novel Coronavi-
rus pandemic, prevailing for last two years. Before
that also, the industry was experiencing sluggish
demand in export markets and rising competi-
tionfrom countries such as Vietnam, Bangladesh,
China, andTurkey. The cascading effect of external
demand shock along with domestic demand slack
has resulted in lower production in all sectors of the
industry. However, government initiatives to bolster
the industry have raised hopes. At the forefront of
the industryis the relativelymodernisedspinning
sectorthathas gained global eminence with 30%
market share for being a dependable supplier of
quality yarns. India hasthe second-largest staple
yarn spinning capacity withabout 48 million
installed ring spindles, and producing approximate-
ly 6 billion kilograms of yarn.Under the prevailing
situation, a large-scale further capacity augmenta-
tion, which we have witnessed in the past, cannot
be expected. Mostly the spinningmills are upgrading
technology, like replacing conventional ring frames
with compact spinning, selectivelyacquiringrotor
spinning for coarser yarn production and air-vortex
machines for polyester blended yarn spinning.
Acquisition of key technologies, like contami-
nation detector, modern carding and combing
machines, auto-doffing and other automation
systems,including the latest generation of link
winder with yarn cleaning system etc.,continues
in the priority list, mainly aimed at maintaining
the competitive edge in the yarn export market.
The spinning industry still has older machines with
about 15 million spindle capacity,which areproduc-
ing yarn inefficiently and need to be discarded or
replaced with modern machines, so the sector is
labelled as the fully modernized industry.
Coming to weaving sector, 97% ofabout 76 thousand
million square meters of fabrics (excluding Khadi,
Wool, and Silk), are producedannually in the country
by the decentralisedpowerloomsector. However,
this sector intrinsically lacks modernisation, and is
believed to have only 4% modern shuttleless looms
out of about 25 lakhs installed capacity. As oftoday,
most of the production is made with semi-automatic
looms. But, thanks to the various policy interven-
tions by the Governmentperiodically, the situation
is improvingwith the sector adopting more and
more automatic and shuttleless looms. The recent
thrust of GOI to augment production of indigenous
technical textile will also encourage the sector for
weaving more of synthetics,heavier and higher
width fabrics, that will invariably force the industryto
adopt more modern looms.
The Indian textile wet processing sector is on the
course of erasing the infamous label on it being
one of the most polluting industries, thanks to the
growing public awareness and concerns related to
global warming, climate change, green-house-gas
emission, carbon footprint, water scarcity, sustain-
ability, etc.The sector has about 2500 units, out of
which about 200 is in the organised sector, and
the rest as micro, small and medium enterprise
(MSME) manufacturers, making the moderni-
sation a challenging task. The sector is slowly
adopting or considering proactive measures, like
combined scouring and bleaching,ultra-low liquor
ratio machines, supercritical CO2 dyeing,combined
dyeing and finishing,enzyme based biodegrad-
able chemicals, low foam surfactants, bio-scouring,
non-fluoro water repellents, zero discharge of
hazardous chemicals (ZDHC),halogen free flame
retardants, micro-encapsulated coatings, one
bath one-step dyeing for polyester-cotton blended
fabrics,high fixative dyes,digital printing, sublima-
tion printing, efficient solvent recovery, etc.
In the garmenting sector, out of about one lakh
units in the country, 80% are in micro, small and
medium enterprise (MSME) manufacturers, rest
20% in the organised sector that mainly caters to
the export markets. The garment production was at
about 22 billion pieces in 2019-20, while made-ups
stood at approx. 2.4 billion kg. India exported
garments worth US$15,509 million and made-ups
of about US$6,941 million in the said year.The
sector is equipping with or considering adoption
of new technologies such as,high-speed sewing
machines, laser-cutting machines, new pressing
and fusing machines, buttonhole machines, seam
TVC | Feb 2022
bonding machines, seamless garment, digital and
3Dprinting, computer-aided design CAD), assembly
line automation, computer-aided manufacturing
(CAM).
Across the board, the Indian textile industry is
experiencing a tremendous growth potential due
to various technological advancements, automation
and artificial intelligence in machinery and process-
es, data-driven customer operations, applica-
tion of data analytics in decision-making, besides
eco-consciousness and increasing concern on
manufacturing circularity.In testimony thereof, the
industry has become an attractive destination for
FDI, thanks to the recent policyinitiatives of the GOI.
Sustainability, Carbon footprint, Waste
management how it’s relevant and important?
It’s just a talk of the town or any fruitful
measures taken by industry?
These are the trending terms nowadays in
everybody’s mind, as the world, including India,
bolsters its effort towards achieving net-zerocarbon
emission to protect the earthand make it eternal-
lyliveable for our future generation.Sustainability
is a system or practice that should be adhered in
our life, profession, business, service, collective and
co-operative actions, so that we take from the earth
only those resources that are easily renewable.
This will do no harm to the environment and
allow meeting the needs of the current generation
without affecting the potential needs of the future
generations.Waste control and management
including using energy and water efficiently, are
important means to attain and maintain the wheel
of sustainability, On the other hand, carbon footprint
is an indicator or a measure of sustainability. It is the
total amount of greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions,
including carbon dioxide and methane which are
generated by us and by our actions, and expressed
as carbon-dioxide equivalent (CO2e). Needless to
say, lower is the carbon footprint, the better we are
doing for the sustainability of the earth.
These terms may appear new to the textile industry,
but it is many times resorting to discrete measures
on an incremental basis to reduce their adverse
impact.I give a few examples.
Installation of variable frequency drive (VFD) system,
soft-starter along with energy-efficient motors,
improving power factor, use of lighter-weight yarn
and fabric package, lighter spindle, efficient spindle
oil in bolsters, sandwich jointless tape, lighter-weight
pulley in place of drum driving the ring spindles, use
of false-ceiling and return hot-air from pneumafils in
spinning shop floor, optimum ring diameter relative
to yarn package and balloon setting, intermit-
tent movement of empty conveyor, use of steam
heating in place of electric heating, use of mist
nozzles for yarn conditioning, FRP impellers in fans
replacing aluminum ones, combined treatments
in wet processing, bath recovery system, counter-
flow current washing, cold treatments, continu-
ous washing, heat recovery unit, HTHP machines,
enzymatic scouring and washing, use of sensors
and control system, less water and less temperature
wet processing, treatment of dye house effluents to
recover chemicals and water for reuse, etc. Since
1980s, Indian textile industries are adopting various
suchmeasures to reduce the cost of production
by saving raw materials, chemicals, energy, water,
compressed air, and adopting waste recovery and
reuse measures.Thus,even when the sustainabil-
ity issue was not of much concern world-over, the
textile industry adopted measures which have
acted beneficially in improving the sustainability of
the industry. Needless to say, much is desired to be
done, particularly in extending the coverage to the
medium and small sectors of the industry.
The point to be noted is that when we are in textile
production business, it is just not feasible notto
harm anything. We cannot adhere to the very
basic definitions of sustainability stated aboveas
a whole. What is possible and important in this
juncture is that we go on reducing consumption of
non-renewable raw materials for textile production,
hunt for alternate source of renewable inputs
including energy, stop using harmful chemicals, not
drain them in the environment, and go extra-miles to
ensure that whatever we produce or discard during
the manufacture, is reused to the maximal. In this
context, the definition given by K. Fletcher (2009) is
more practical and should be the policy guideline
for the textile industry. He stated, “A sustainable
product is one that is manufactured in such a way
that it has the lowest possible adverse effect on the
environment. e.g., by making the most efficient use
of resources such as water and energy and which
goes the extra mile to recover raw materials, e.g.,
40
TVC | Feb 2022
by the recycling of as much water as possible or by
recovering the heat from wastewater discharges”.
What is more important is that the industry must
include a sustainability agenda in the business
policy and ensure an acceptable auditing.It should
periodicallyself-declare the various indicators of
sustainability it has attained, and the time-bound
goal it has set for the organisation. The industry
association like CITI should come forward and take
the lead in setting the quantitative and qualitative
norms for each segment of the textile industryfor
a positive environmental impact, rather than the
government set norms by legislation or foreign
buyers insist on certain norms as a pre-condition
to buy Indian textiles. This apart, another essential
concern for the textile industry is the circularity of
production of both goods and wastes throughout
the value chain. If nothing is thrown out as rubbish
for landfills in the earth and emissions released in
the environment are controlled, and ifthe remnants
of the product at the end of their lifecycles,as well
as the discards are reprocessed and reused, much
will be done to improve the sustainability. Indeed,
Panipat’s textile recycling units in the decentralised
sector are doing an impressive job by processing
textile wastes collected through their network and
turning the waste into useful products for reuse.
Various actions for circularity of the economy should
be in-built in the quest for attaining the sustainabil-
ity goal of the production unit.Today’s Indian textile
industry economy is mostly of a linear nature,
Take–Make–Waste. It must be turned into a circular
withthe order of using the non-sustainable raw
materials and chemicals as, Avoid—Alternative—
Reduce—Reuse—Recycle.The earlier we transform,
the better is the sustainability of the nation.
How Data Analysis, Machine Learning, AI,
Block Chain is important for the industry and
how we can implement in textile and apparel
industry?
These are emerging developments in the field of
computer science, but not limited to only companies
dealing with information technology. They are being
increasingly used by other industries as well to
optimize the resources, bring post-production and
customer experience in a seamless loop, and run
the business intelligently empowered by improved
data analytics. In fact, these are some important
components of the Fourth Industrial Revolution
that has poised to redefine traditional boundaries
of the present industries, not only to change the
way we work and relate to one another, butalso, to
createmany new opportunities.The textile industry
cannot remain insulated from such spectacular
developments. In the past, the industry has adopted
all significant developments made inthe first to third
industrial revolutions, got enriched technologically
and reached to the present height of phenome-
nal success. In the same way, sooner or letter, the
textile and apparel industry is going to adopt and
implement all the beneficial technologies of the
present industrial revolution to empower itself and
convert every production unit as a ‘smart’ factory.
As such, big data and machine learning are different
from each other, but these two hot trending
technologies are used in combination for a success-
ful business. The input to the machine learning
algorithms is the information extracted by analysis
of big data. This input is then learned by the machine
learning models to predict the desired outputs.We
all use data in our profession as well as in daily life
for better understanding of events, and for decision-
making. But these are relatively ‘small’ data, and
often we may use Excel like spreadsheet or other
dedicated computer programmes for analysis of
the data and its interpretation. But as the world
turns more and more into digital, we areoften fed
with huge amount of data, better known as big data
that cannotbe handled the way we are handling
small data.Giving example from the textile field
say, visualinspection of fabric defects post-weaving
is traditionally done on an illuminated inspection
frame, where only a limited number of defects on a
restrictive scale per unit time can be recorded, and
classification of defects is done manually. However,
if the inspection can be performed by capturing
images of the portions of the fabric continually with
a high-speed camera during the manufacturing
process itself, it is possible to gather a massive data
on fabric defects rapidly and perform anerrorless
classification based on the algorithm. In this case,
we will be dealing with big data on non-conformi-
ties in our fabric production. Big data is typically
characterisedby ‘5V’s namely, Volume (of data),
Variety (different types of data), Velocity (speed
at which the datais gathered and processed),
Veracity (quality and consistency of data), and Value
41
TVC | Feb 2022
(usefulness of the data after extraction of informa-
tion and interpretation).
Machine learning (ML) on the other hand, enables
machines/computers to learn from experiences (i.e.,
from information provided by big data) to find out
patterns, insights, learn more and make decisions
without human intervention (i.e., without explicitly
doing the programming). Thus, instead of writing
code, we just feed big data to the generic algorithm,
and the algorithm itself builds the logic based on
the given input data.Big data analytics is all about
collecting and transforming raw data into extracted
information, and this data information is then used
by the machine learning algorithms to predict better
results or future without or with minimal human
intervention. The machine learning is a subset of AI
(artificial intelligence). In our example of capturing
big data on fabric defects, ML can do numerous
classifications of defects, including identification of
source and cause of defects based on its algorithms
and continuous learning fromthe extracted informa-
tion.
Artificial Intelligence (AI) is also known as machine
intelligence, since it mimics the human thought
process and enables machines to function on their
own similar to human intelligence, like the ability to
perceive, learn, reason, and act. It concerns develop-
ment of intelligent or smart machines, those can
think and work like humans. In our cited example on
fabric defect detection, at present a trained ‘human
being’ working on the inspection tableapplies his
logic and decides whether a fabric with a particu-
lar defect is to be altogether rejected or it is to be
allowed after mending the defect manually with a
hand tool. In future, this job of the human being is
likely to be simulated by an AI-powered robot that
will apply logic more rationally and accurately, and
mend the defects precisely and tirelessly.
Thus, when acting in fusion, these three technolo-
gies, namely Big Data Analytics, ML and AI are likely
to bring disruptive changes in textile productions
and businesses.
A blockchain is essentially a digital ledgeror record
of transactions that allow digital information or
transaction to be recorded and distributed, but
not edited.Every time a new transaction occurs
on the blockchain, a record of that transaction
is added to every participant’s ledger. Itbeing an
immutable ledger, the said transaction cannot be
altered, deleted, or destroyed. As the decentralised
database is managed by multiple participants in a
blockchain, it is also known as Distributed Ledger
Technology (DLT).Currently the blockchain is used
for management of complex textile/apparel supply
chain characterised by a vast network of manufac-
turers, warehouses, transport depots, communica-
tion channels and logistic providers, each managing
own databases and logistics. In a blockchain, flow
of data happens continuously in a real time and
the same is visible to all permitted parties, as it is a
single immutable ledger, in contrast to commonly
adopted conventional mutable multiple ledgers
with fragmented data. Thus, the blockchain allows a
retailer to build more customer-centric supplychains
that prioritize authentication and trust. The other
likelyapplications of blockchain will be comparing
daily productivity of different textile units, may be
located in different places by a single converted
yarn count or fabric sort. It can also provide insight
on short fall in production, digital provenance of
apparel brands to prevent counterfeiting, display-
ing of sustainable and ethical credentials, tracking
of lifecycle of a textile product from raw material to
design and sale, use and then resale and recycling.
The Internet of Things (IoT) refers to numerous-
machines (physical devices) around the world that
are now connected to the Internet, all collecting
and sharing data. An example of IoT application
that is getting faster application in textile industry
is theremote machine servicing platform that also
includes electronic hardware, embedded sensors,
production process monitoring system, predictive
maintenancealgorithms,etc.Incaseofabreakdown,
the machines can be serviced remotely, without
needing the physical presence of an expert service
engineer in the production site. If needed, even the
corrupted machine programme can be replaced by
uploading a fresh programmeremotelythrough the
internet only. This will reduce the downtime of the
machine and servicing cost, thereby improving the
productivity of the unit.
42
43 TVC | Feb 2022
We can expect exciting developments to happen in
the textile sector by adopting these new technolo-
gies.No doubt, it is a long way for the Indian textile
manufacturing units before they get transformed
into smart factories.
How Research and Development is a part of
important process in the industry, industry
adoption, investment of same.
R&D should be an integral agenda of the innovation
led textile industry. Since the industry is operating
in the private sector, handsome private funding
particularly for conducting applied and strategic
research to meet the organisation’s specific
short-termrequirements is to be ensured. For
long-term researches, which are of basic in nature
and require multidisciplinary expertise, the industry
should sponsor the problem-solving to educational
and research institute. While most of the units in
the organisedtextile sector have their own in-house
R&D setups, often recognised by the Department of
Science and Technology (DST) and are doing what
is necessary for their requirements, the same is not
the case for the units in the decentralised sectors.
Good researchdemands significant funding. It is
suggested that a national level fund for textile
education and research be created by levying a
suitable cess on trade of textile materials, besides
ensuring active industry participation in textile
education and research. Such fund to be allocated
to the institutes on competitive basis, judging the
novelty, strength, and industry participation in the
submitted proposal. This is vital for the growth
of innovations in the sector that is structurally
fragmented anddecentralised in nature.
Educationist research hardly applied on
commercial production of the industry, what
is the reasons, setbacks and how we can
integrate industry with educationist to get
maximum productivity of research
The statement is not fully true. Incremental research
and the knowledge generated therein has reached
the industry and are adopted by it. Unlike in the
agricultural field, where the beneficial outputs of the
research need to carried to the small and marginal
farmers (i.e., the stakeholders) in a positive mode for
obvious reason of their poor capability in accessing
information of their own, the textile industry is fairly
equipped with qualified personnel, who themselves
gather the various technical developments around
them and from the world. I have already given the
example of the period of 1990s, when the spinning
industry was pressured from the export market to
improve yarn quality, various institutions provided
the necessary research support. Today, the industry
is producing the best quality of yarn. The annual
Joint Technological Conference and other seminars
do a good job of research disseminations from
the research and educational institutes.However,
the weak link between the educational/research
institute and the textile industry is not a denying
fact. Often, the average student quality and also,
the research emanating from the institutes are not
meetingtheexpectationsoftheindustry.Onebiggest
lacuna is the absence of an exclusive university on
textile sciences in the country, that can oversee the
standard of education and research to maintain
them not only to the desired quality, but also keep
them comparable with the best in the world.It is
to be borne in mind that today’s textile technol-
ogy is highly diverse and complex, dealing with not
only a few natural fibres, but a host of synthetic
fibres of different origin, using varied yarn making
systemsandwoven, nonwoven, knitting and braided
fabric making machines,colouring and finishing
processes, garmenting or otherwise, for both
apparels and technical applications. Anotherlacuna
isthe lack of information on how the Indian industry
is technologically moving. Presently, we get some
broad information on installed machinery capacity
and production figures. But for a better insight on
the technological strength of the industry, to format
textile education and research and policy formula-
tion, detailed technology wise information on
installed capacity and production data are desired.
Hopefully, the Office of the Textile Commissioner,
Ministry of Textiles (MOT, GOI) is in the process of
collecting such valuable statistics regularly, via their
web based Online Return System.
Since time immemorial, India is known for textiles,
for its innovativeness, uniqueness, as well as diversi-
ty. Now, we may be experiencing disadvantage in
terms of cost of production and discomfort in export
market. But these are not difficult to overcome.
What is needed is a will to change and adapt and
assimilate the technologies for the betterment of
the textile industry.
44
TVC | Feb 2022
FROM PINS TO ROLLERS
& MUCH MORE,
BASANT FIBERTEK
EXPANDS :
KISHORE KHAITAN
What are the various products your company
manufactures, especially for the spinning
segment?
W
e started with manufacturing Pins 58 years
ago in 1964 and over the years expanded
our product range to include a wide range
of products for all types of Spinning proesses. We
also manufacture some products for sectors other
than Spinning and for non-textile applications too.
For the Spinning sector, wemanufacture spiked
lattices, pinned beaters for Blowroom, Chute feed
opening rollers and Pinned Lickerins for cards. For
Open-end Spinning, we set up a new advanced
manufacturing facility, as our Unit II, to manufacture
Rotors and Opening rollers for all makes of latest OE
machines.
Besides, we also manufacture Pinstrips for Worsted
Spinning Gill Boxes used in woollen, acrylic and
silk spinning. For Linen Spinning preparatory lines
Hackle pins and pinstrips as well as nylon Gills. We
are also a major supplier to the recycling industry
of pinned lags used for converting textile waste into
fibres. Most of the large well-known Spinning Mills
in India are our clients. We supply to many OEMs
too besides many Mills abroad.
What are their USPs and special characteristics?
How are they better in terms of quality than
cheaper imports?
We are pioneers in India, having started manufactur-
ing steel pins for textile machinery way back in 1964.
Since then, we have diversified our product line and
updated our technology with the best know-how
from world’s leading companies in Germany and
USA. Our USP is world class innovative products,
application engineering and custom solutions
to problems faced by Mills and the best value for
money in terms of payback on investment. Another
Basant Fibertek Pvt Ltd manufactures textile pins and a wide range of products
for the spinning sector and other segments. Located in Rajasthan, the company
has made rapid strides in the production of these products supported by high-tech
technologies and machinery. The company has never rested on its laurels.Its
Unit-II now is manufacturing rotors and opening rollers.
Mr. Kishore Khaitan, Managing Director of the company is a well-known
personality among the textile industry circle. He replied in details to a
Questionnaire sent by the Textile Value Chain. Excerpts:
INTERVIEW
45 TVC | Feb 2022
USP is our ability to innovate new and customised
solutions to meet specific requirements of our
clients, given our deep understanding about fibres
and spinning and we producing our own pins. We
have successfully been pioneers in developing
many import substitute products indigenously, the
lastest being Magnetic Rotors for fully automatic
Rotor Spinning machines. We also hold internation-
al patents and registered designs for some of our
products.
If in exports, where are your markets abroad?
Let us know about new markets that you have
opened up recently? We export 50% of our
production to more than 40 countries in all five
continents including Asia, Europe, America, Africa
and Australia. Recently we have entered the CIS
countries and plan to enlarge our presence in South
America too.
Please do let us know about the technolo-
gies and machinery being utilised for the
production?
We use CNC machines and high level of automation
in all our processes. We use more than 25 different
technologies for manufacture of our products
including wire working and heat treatment, surface
finishing, injection moulding, CNC machining,
ultrasonic equipment, dynamic balancing and
electroplating, among others. In all our processes,
we extensively use best manufacturing practices
such as TPM. Lean manufacturing, Six Sigma, SQC
and many others.
What are your plans for the next phase of
expansion and diversification?
We recently completed a major expansion in 2021
to double our capacity for Pinned Rollers and lags
as well as for OE components. Next expansion is
planned in 2023. We are also aggressively investing
in Sustainability. Our Unit II is a green building. We
are installing rooftop solar to cover a major part of
our power consumption, making efforts to reduce
water consumption, increasing use of recyclable
materials in packaging and taking several other ESG
initiatives. We are also doing our bit in promoting
recycling in the textile industry by providing highly
cost-effective solutions, using pins in recycling
machines, to regenerate fibres of high quality at a
low cost. We have been able to raise production and
quality while reducing cost for many of our recycling
clients. We have plans for offering comprehensive
support services to Spinning Mills and will share the
details when the time comes.
How has your company managed the Covid
times?
We have grown our turnover by more than 110%
over the pre-covid FY 2019-20. This has been possible
only due to the trust and relationship we enjoy with
our domestic and foreign clients. Our production
suffered only for one month in each of the years
2020 and 2021 but due to the dedication and hard
work of our employees, we were able to spring back
strongly. We also used the Covid time to focus on
innovation, cost reduction and adding new products
and services to our range so that we can add more
value to our clients and improve profitability.
What is your wish-list for the industry and also
the Government to promote textile spares
and accessories?
The Indian Government is not doing enough
specially to encourage MSMEs in the make In India
initiative. While the government did something for
financial support during Covid, taxation is high,
incentives for expansion as well as depreciation
rates are very low, export incentives have reduced
and the ecosystem for R&D and innovation is also
insufficient. It will hugely help promote manufac-
ture of textile machinery and parts in India if the
government launches a TUF-like scheme for Textile
Engineering Industry (TEI) also.
However, that said, I strongly believe that the
companies engaged in the Indian TEI should think
big and aspire to become global players in their line
of product or service and adopt global standards
of manufacturing, design and service in their
operations. The other thing they should focus on is to
understand the user needs more deeply and provide
superior solutions to enable the mills improve their
quality, productivity and cost competitiveness.
Though the journey will be tough and challenging,
it is certainly achievable and worthwhile. Indian
Textile Industry can aspire to global leadership only
if the backbone of TEI is strong to support that goal!
39 TVC | Jan 2022
V I S I O N
D i v e r s e p r o d u c t k n o w l e d g e
T e c h n i c a l l y q u a l i f i e d &
c o m p e t e n t t e a m t o s e r v i c e t h e
c u s t o m e r n e e d s
O r g a n i z a t i o n a l s t r e n g t h & b a c k -
u p t o e x e c u t e l a r g e i n s t i t u t i o n a l
o r d e r s
P r o d u c t d e v e l o p m e n t & S a m p l i n g
a r e u n d e r t a k e n c o m m e r c i a l l y
+91 230 243 8538 office@kenindia.in
Q U A L I T Y P O L I C Y
U n d e r s t a n d i n g o f C u s t o m e r n e e d s
& a b i l i t y t o s e r v i c e i n s t i t u t i o n a l
c u s t o m e r s t o a p p a r e l s
F a b r i c D e s i g n & D e v e l o p m e n t
c a p a b i l i t y
D i v e r s e m a n u f a c t u r i n g c a p a b i l i t y
A b i l i t y t o d e l i v e r & c o m m i t m e n t
t o e x c e l l e n c e
To be the supplier of first choice for our customers working in close
association with them offering complete Fabric & Apparels related
solutions from design to delivery.
KEN endeavors to create value for its customers by setting
benchmarks in cost competitiveness, quality parameters and
turnaround time. This is to be achieved by a continuous process of
product innovation, enhancement of personnel skills and optimum
utilization of technology.
W H Y K E N . . .
O r g a n i z a t i o n w i t h 8 0 0 M e m b e r s
T e a m
9/621, Industrial Estate,
Ichalkaranji- 416115,
Maharashtra, INDIA.
CORPORATE OFFICE
47
TVC | Feb 2022
SANGAM INDIA’S
EXPORTS SOAR
114%, PLAN BIG
EXPANSION:
S.N. MODANI
T
he company’s major expansion kick-started in
2014, as the group saw an increase in Denim
capacity to 35 million meters p.a. Installation
of state-of-the-art Seamless Garment Machines with
a capacity of 3.6 lakhs pieces p.a. The next big step
was venturing into the B2C market space with the
launch of C9 Airwear, a casual wear & active wear
apparel brand for women in 2015. C9 Airwear is
available across 1000 multi brand outlets in India
and all major digital retail portals.
Dr. S N Modani, CEO & Managing Director, Sangam
India Ltd replied to a Questionnaire sent by the
Textile Value Chain. Excerpts:
How has the Sangam Group managed the
Covid times for nearly two years?
Covid-19 had a profound effect on the textile sector
of India, forcing garment factories to shut down or
work at half capacity to stem new cases. We saw a
historic drop in local sales and exports at an industry
level, which continued for the better half of 2021 as
well. Sangam India took this opportunity to rework
our strategy by improving internal efficiencies and
focusing on the opportunities in the global market.
We invested our time in refining our systems and
processes to ensure our business readiness once
the markets open.
Now, with the vaccination drive in full swing and
the markets bouncing back to pre-covid levels,
Established in 1984, Sangam India Ltd is one of the leading manufacturers in
PV dyed yarn, cotton and OE yarn and also ready to stitch fabric. The company
produces 35 million meters of PV fabric and 48 million meters of denim fabric
annually. The Group has also introduced a seamless garment manufactur-
ing facility with 52 seamless knitting machines. Sangam started with only eight
weaving machines in 1984 and is now being recognised as a leading brand in the
textile industry, with presence in over 50 countries.
INTERVIEW
Textile Value Chain- Feb 2022
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Textile Value Chain- Feb 2022

  • 1. 1 TVC | Feb 2022 V O L U M E 1 0 | I S S U E N O . 0 2 | R S 1 0 0 | P a g e s 1 1 0 BUDGET BONANZA FEBRUARY 2022 www.textilevaluechain.in Postal registration No. MNE/346/2021-23, posted at Mumbai Patrika Channel sorting office, Pantnagar, Ghatkopar (East), Mumbai - 400075 Posting date is end of month ( 29th/ 30th / 31st ) I S S N N O : 2 2 7 8 - 8 9 7 2 | R N I N O : M A H E N G / 2 0 1 2 / 4 3 7 0 7
  • 2. 2 TVC | Feb 2022
  • 3. 3 TVC | Feb 2022 Website: www.lemeriteexports.com Email id: yarn@lemeriteexports.com F A R M I N G G I N N I N G S P I N N I N G Y A R N W E A V I N G
  • 4. 4 TVC | Feb 2022
  • 5. 5 TVC | Feb 2022 5 TVC | Feb 2022 ektafibers@yahoo.com
  • 6. 2 TVC | Feb 2022
  • 7. 7 TVC | Feb 2022 7 TVC | Feb 2022 Hosiety /day Email:marutitexprocess@gmail.com www.marutitexprocess.com
  • 8. 3 TVC | Feb 2022
  • 9. 9 TVC | Feb 2022 30 TVC | Jan 2022
  • 10. 10 TVC | Feb 2022 Products: Cotton Ginning and pressing Ring Spun Yarn: Leaspin Textile LLP is one of the fastest growing Textile companies in lnterna- tional markets managed by highly skilled professionals, innovators, qualified & experienced dedicated Leaders and workforce. "Santosh Sadan" New Adarsh Society, Sanala Road, Morbi - 363641 GUJARAT, INDIA. Phone : 02822-227345 Factory Add. : Survey No. 629p5, Jetpar - Aniyari Road, At-Jetpar (Macchu), Ta. & Dist. Morbi - 363630 GUJARAT, INDIA. E-mail : leaspinllp@gmail.com, salesleaspin@gmail.com Count Range: 20s to 45s Combed Hosiery/ Weaving , Combed Compact Hosiery/ Weaving And Carded yarns Mr. Dharam C. Patel : +91 99258 45577
  • 11. 11 TVC | Feb 2022 hu),
  • 12. 12 TVC | Feb 2022
  • 13. 13 TVC | Feb 2022
  • 14. 14 TVC | Feb 2022 Shree Shiddhanath Cotex Pvt. Ltd. Shree Shiddhanath Cotex Pvt. Ltd. is a textile company involved in the manufacturing of Cotton Yarn from the Raw Cotton directly from the Farmers. With the increasing demand and facilities in textile industry, Shiddhanath stand out among its competitors in terms of product quality delivered within optimum time. With over 500+ employees and workers unite to work at Shiddhanath, all of them are bound to meet the company's expectations which makes the company lead in the textile industry. 100% Cotton Carded Yarn (10's to 30's Ne) PRODUCTS OF YARN ABOUT SSCPL Factory Address: Survey No. 70, Thangadh Road, Chotila to 3 kms., At: Nava, Chotila, Dist.: Surendranagar, Gujarat, INDIA - 363520 We spin to weave your dreams 100% Cotton Carded CompactYarn (10's to 30's Ne) 100% Cotton Semi Combed Compact Yarn (16's to 30's Ne) 100% Cotton Combed Compact Yarn (16's to 30's Ne) Slub Yarn (10's to 20's Ne) *All Yarns will be available in Organic, BCI, PSCP, GRS and RCS. www.shiddhanath.in accounts@shiddhanath.com
  • 15. Ph: +91 422 2562796 | M : 93608 66667 | 93606 65968 | E : textech@textechonline.com Stall No.A-7
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  • 17. 17 TVC | Feb 2022 Table of February 2022 CONTENT 49 51 61 66 79 80 83 86 88 89 92 93 94 25 27 28 29 48 31 35 44 47 ADVERTISER INDEX COVER STORY Bonanza Makes Industry Smile Highlights Union Budget – 2022 Building the Nation with Textiles NEWS Turkish Upholstery Leader opts for montex®coat 26 43% Upturn for Italian Textile Machinery Vandewiele Savio India Merger Finalised Radianza™ AW22/23 collection by full thai knitting INTERVIEW Yarn orders for Next 3 months lined up: Jayesh Patel More Room for Moderni- sation of textile Industry : S.K.Chattopadhyay From Pins to Rollers & much more, Basant Fibertek expands : Kishore Khaitan Sangam India’s Exports Soar 114%, plan big expansion: Sustainability at the ForeFront Recycling is the future : Mr. Chhaganbhai Sangani INDUSTRY VIEWS Technical Textile : Processing of Automotive Fabrics Industry Focus : Industries Progressing with Scopes, Post Covid-19 Swiss Textile Machinery : Going Digital: Swiss textile Machinery Shows the Way Spinning Focus : Unique Solutions for Processing Viscose with Air-Jet Spinning EVENT REPORT Non Woven Tech Asia MARKET REPORT T-shirts, singlets and other vests, knitted/crocheted export Textile Machinery Import Technical Textile Import Natural Fibre Import SHOW CALENDAR Fashion Focus : Fashion in Formals Cover Page : Meera Back Page : Raymond Back Inside : Raysil Front Inside : Rimtex 3 : Lemerit 4 : MCX 5: Ekta Fiber 6: Kotak Ginning 7: Maruti Spintex 8 : Fiotex 9: Unitech 10: Le Spin 11: Radheshyam 12: RSB Cottex 13: Hi Spin 14 : Shiddhanath Cotex 15 : TexTech 16: ITM 2022 54-55 : Sky Spintex 56: Phenix 57: Basant Wire 58 : Liva 59 : Avenue 60 : Teraspin 95: LRT 96 : TEXFAIR 2022 97: Niva Export 98: Key Textile 99: Meera 100 : Akshar Spintex 101: Ramkrishna 102: Gimatex 103: Narmada 104: Astra Tech 105 : Shreeram 106: Giriraj / Glossy 107: Rameswar Udyog 108:Dodhia Group Anjani Prasad 20 S.N. Modani 23 91: Bishnu Texport 85: Amritlakshmi 34: Omax 82: Sakthi Industries 87:Mahalaxmi ceramics 78: Uster 46: Ken india 65: Texfab engineers 30: Saurer 19: Yash machines
  • 18. 18 TVC | Feb 2022 B All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of any of the content from this issue is prohibitedwithoutexplicitwrittenpermissionofthepublisher.Everyefforthasbeen made to ensure and present factual and accurate information. The views expressed in the articles published in this magazine are that of the respective authors and not necessarilythatofthepublisher.TextileValuechainisnotresponsibleforanyunlikely errorsthatmightoccuroranystepstakenbasedintheinformationprovidedherewith. REGISTERED OFFICE: Innovative Media and Information Company 189/5263, Sanmati, Pantnagar, Ghatkopar (East)A, Mumbai 400075. Maharashtra, INDIA. Cell: +91-9769442239 Email: info@textilevaluechain.com Web: www.textilevaluechain.com Owner, Publisher, Printer and Editor - Ms. Jigna Shah Printed and Processed by her at, Impression Graphics, Gala no.13, Shivai Industrial Estate, Andheri Kurla Road, Sakinaka, Andheri (East), Mumbai 400072, Maharashtra, India. SUBSCRIPTION EDITOR AND PUBLISHER Ms. Jigna Shah EDITORIAL TEAM MARKETING AND ADVERTISING ENQUIRY I ndian industry could breathe a sigh of relief when the Budget revealed a bonanza for it in many a way. The allocation for the textile sector for year 2022-23 in the Union Budget presented on February 1 by the Finance Minister Nirmala Sitharaman stands at about ₹12,382.14 crore, which is about 8.1 per cent higher than the revised Budget allocation of 2021-22 of ₹11,449.32 crore Budget allocation during 2021. Infrastructure has got a big push and the industry welcomed setting up of seven mega textiles parks. Private industry will be encouraged to take up military equipment designing in collaboration with India’s Defence Research and Development Organisation, which will give a boost to technical textiles. One can call the year 2022 as a watershed year since the industry is at crossroads. Now the only way to consolidate its position in the global market is to take the path to innovation. If one sees the way the industry has wriggled out of the Covid crisis, all are of the unanimous opinion that the best is near at hand. Already, it is out of the tunnel and basking in the warmth of good gestures through the Budget by the Government. One main plank no doubt is the Innovation, which is the answer to all its ills and stagnation. Innovate all the way to success is the only mantra to capture the global market in textiles. It can take a leaf out of the Cematex conviction that Innovation is the heartbeat of transformation: Start-Up Valley, a new initiative by CEMATEX, spotlights companies in its early stages of development with new and game changing solutions and technologies to support and inspire innovation for the textile, garment and fashion industry. Transformation is more critical than ever. What is needed are cutting-edge developments from research and educational institutes, and the industry. An exemplary move by the Cematex is the Research & Innovation Lab which will be the ideal platform for research and educational organisations, and the industry to showcase the latest exciting developments as well as to collaborate with top brands and like-minded businesses from around the world. Make in India can create 60 lakh new jobs, says the Indian Government. Self-reliance in textile technologies is an important step, among other measures to achieve it. Indian yarn has received many accolades. The fabric and garment sectors are not far behind. And if the technologies also lift all these segments with innovation, there’s nothing like it. Innovate or emulate or collaborate, to realise these, the mindset must change. Industries in India have done the impossible all their way to glory. And why not this traditional industry of textiles in the land of talents and capability to surmount all the odds and win its share of glories. Innovate or Emulate CREATIVE DESIGNER Mr.Anant Jogale CONTENT WRITER Ms. Muskaan Valecha ADVISOR - EDITORIAL & MARKETING Mr. Samuel Joseph Online Registration https://textilevaluechain.in/subscription/ Subscription Enquiry Ms. Vaibhavi Kokane +91-9869634305 ; textilevaluechain123@gmail.com Scan and Open Mohammad Tanweer +91-9167986305 sales@textilevaluechain.com
  • 19. www.yashtex.com sales@yashtex.com Open Width Knits Inspection Machine Model: IOK I Inspection, Measuring & Rewinding Solutions +91 9167772065 I Knits Lycra Elastic By-stretch KEY FEATURES Designed for tensionless handling, inspection, measuring and rewinding of delicate fabrics PLC controlled synchronizing systems Variable roll compactness Roll Handling, Packing & Sorting Option to set machine parameters based on the fabric qualities For Stretch Sensitive Fabrics MACHINES FOR DELICATE FABRICS Elastic, Knits, Lycra Inspection Machine Model: IRE
  • 20. TVC | Feb 2022 COVER STORY BONANZA MAKES INDUSTRY SMILE T he allocation for the textile sector for year 2022-23 in the Union Budget presented on February 1 by the Finance Minister Nirmala Sitharaman stands at about ₹12,382.14 crore, which is about 8.1 per cent higher than the revised budget allocation of 2021-22 which stands at about ₹11,449.32 crore. Budget allocation during 2021-22 initiallywas₹3,631.64crore,butitwaslaterrevisedto ₹11,449.32 crore mainly due to increased allocation for procurement of cotton by Cotton Corporation of India (CCI) under ‘Price Support Scheme’ from ₹136 crore initially to ₹8,439.88 crore. For financial year 2022-23, the allocation is ₹9,243.09 crore, which is about 9.5 per cent higher than revised allocation of last year. In the present Budget, the government has allocated about ₹133.83 crore for Textile Cluster Development Scheme, and hence the total budget allocation for Research and Capacity Building in textiles increased by 73.4 per cent to reach about ₹478.83 crore in 2022-23, as compared to revised budget allocation of ₹276.10 crore in 2021-22. The recently announced Production Linked Incentive (PLI) scheme and PM Mega Integrated Textile Region and Apparel (PM MITRA) scheme also saw an allocation of ₹15 crore each for 2022-23. Thegovernmenthasalsoallocated₹105croreforthe year 2022-23 towards Raw Material Supply Scheme, which has already been approved for implemen- tation during period from 2021-22 to 2025-26. The main increase is for cotton procurement by Cotton Corporation of India under the price support scheme. The Cotton Corporation will see allocation of ₹9,243 crore for the next financial year as against ₹8,440 crore in the revised budget allocation for the current year. This is for the committed liability of the government to the Corporation, said an official. On duties levied, with no changes in the 10% import duty on cotton, the industry’s expectation of About 8.1% higher allocation, Rs 134-cr allocation for Cluster Development Scheme, and a big push to Infrastructure are some of the bold steps taken in the Budget for 2022-23 that have made the industry smile with satisfaction. NIRMALA SITHARAMAN Finance Minister of India TVC Editorial Team 20
  • 21. 21 TVC | Feb 2022 measures to control cotton prices, which is the raw material, was not met. Trimmings, embellishments, labels and the like that attract 5% import duty will now be available as duty-free imports for exporters of textiles and leather garments. But it seems made-ups and home textiles have been excluded from the duty-free import of trimmings, etc. At present, machinery such as for knitting and weaving machines are included in the list of machines having Concessional Custom Duty of 5%. All these machines will attract 7.5% import duty. Industry sources said customs duty includes the ad valorem tax and specific duty. The specific duty is likely to be rationalised for certain fabric items and removed for some of the garments. The industry welcomed setting up of seven mega textiles parks under MITRA, and duty reduction on nylon raw materials. However, the levy of 10% import duty on cotton saw mixed reactions. The Budget also puts emphasis on infrastructure development and research & capacity building as the grant for these sectors has been increased by about 43.7% and 77.5%, respectively, compared to last year. The Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI) the apex association of the apparel industry of the country has welcomed the Union Budget as positive and growth oriented for the Apparel Industry. Mr Rakesh Biyani, President, CMAI said that the most important step in this Budget for the Textile Industry was the removal of the Anti-dumping duty on PTA, which was a long-standing demand of the Textile Manufacturing Value Chain, as PTA is a crucial input for polyester production. This will potentially open up the MMF Value Chain, and give a fillip to the entire MMF industry and enhance its global competitiveness. Technical Textiles, Home Furnishing, Sportswear Industry, Sarees, Dress Materials etc., will all benefit greatly from this move. This move has the potential of being an important game changer for the MMF segment of the industry. Mr Biyani further stated that other than this, there are several other measures which could benefit the Textile Industry, but which appear to be work in progress at this point of time – such as the Technical Textile Mission, a review of the Rules of Origin especially in our FTAs, a review of cheap imports of goods being made by our MSME Sector, refund of all the Taxes and Levies for Exports, and the targeting of making every District an Export hub. The proposed financing of Invoices of the MSME Sector could again be a huge benefit to the industry, which is largely comprised of the MSME Units. If indeed all these plans fructify as per the stated goals and objectives, this could be a landmark Budget for the Industry. This year’s Budget allocates Rs 700 crore for Amended Technology Upgradation Scheme (ATUFs) against Rs 545 crore in the last one, which will help clear the pending capital subsidy. It earmarks Rs 30 crore for Export Promotion Studies against Rs 5 crore in the last Budget, and Rs 100 crore for Integrated Scheme for Skill Development. “With the active support and cooperation of the government, the textile industry will become globally competitive, attract large investments and boost employment generation and exports in the years ahead,” the Northern India Textile Mills’ Association (NITMA) President Sanjay Garg said. “Basic customs duty (BCD) rates on caprolactam, nylon chips and nylon fibre and yarn will be uniformly reduced to 5% to spur textile industry, MSMEs, and exports,” he said. “The Production Linked Incentive (PLI) scheme for man-made fibres and technical textiles with a total outlay of Rs10,683 crore will help the textile industry become globally competitive, attract large investments and boost employment generation. Moreover, to achieve the target of $350 billion from the current size of $167 billion, our manufacturing sector has to grow in double digits on a sustained
  • 22. 22 TVC | Feb 2022 basis. Our manufacturing companies need to become an integral part of global supply chains, possess core competence and cutting-edge technol- ogy,” CITI chairman Rajkumar said. He added that the reduction in customs duty on caprolactam, nylon chips and nylon fibre and yarn to 5 % is a step in the right direction, as it will bring nylon chain on a par with polyester and other man-made fibres. The associations appealed to the Prime Minister to immediately withdraw the levy of 10% import duty on cotton and cotton waste to sustain the global competition, prevent job losses and fall in the exports and also curb cheaper imports of value-added products from the SAFTA countries like Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, etc. Earlier, The Clothing Manufacturers Association of India - CMAI - wholeheartedly welcomed the decision taken at the GST Council’s meeting to defer the proposed increase of GST Rate from 5% to 12% on all items of textiles and garments. CMAI has been continuously raising its voice against the proposed increase especially on Garments, and especially at a time when the industry is reeling under one of the most severe cost increases in recent years, and is just about struggling to emerge out of the effects of the Covid pandemic. Rajesh Masand, President, said “During the last couple of months we have met and explained our viewpoints to almost all the Central and State Finance Ministers, and we are extremely grateful that they have accepted our concerns and decided to defer the proposed increase”. “Our grateful thanks in particular to the Union Minister of Finance, Ms Nirmala Sitharamanji, for her understanding of the disastrous impact on the industry if this increase had come through, and supporting the decision to defer it in the Council Meeting” he added. Rahul Mehta, Chief Mentor and Past President thanked the Hon. Minister of Textiles Mr Piyush Goyal and the Minister of State for Textiles Ms Darshanaben Jardosh, and the Textile Ministry, for their strong support to the cause of the industry. “Without their support, this decision would not have been possible, and our sincere thanks to them”. President Masand also thanked the Trade Associa- tions across the country who got the voice of lakhs of Manufacturers and Retailers to be heard by the Government. However, CMAI has cautioned that the decision to increase the Rates has only been postponed to the next Council Meeting, and reiterated their resolve to continue partnering with the Government on all issues such that win-win solutions emerge on all issues faced by the industry.
  • 23. 23 TVC | Feb 2022 HIGHLIGHTS UNION BUDGET – 2022/23 COVER STORY • Action on climate and transition to clean energy as part of a national master plan that will also lead to logistics efficiency (195 billion rupees production-linked incentives for solar modules.) {Solar infrastructure Projects in Textile Mills are encouraged} • Gati Shakti - seamless building of infrastructure projects and improving ease of doing business (The budget allots 480 billion rupees for a hous- ing plan, including affordable housing, in urban and rural areas) {Technical Textile stream for de- velopment of Sound proof fabrics, Furnishing/ Home Textiles, introduction of textile fibre com- posite grids for roof, etc needs to be focused} • India will expand highways by 25,000 kilometers {Scope for Geo-textiles, and fabrics for canopies along these highways for villagers to sale their lo- cal branded products and also for Petrol Pumps/ Electric charging stations} • India’s plan to become a Smartphone and elec- tronics manufacturing base for the world, an al- ternative to China. (Duty concessions for some electronics manufacturer) {Efforts to be taken through start-ups for incorporation of Smart Electronic items/gadgets on the existing textile machines for upgrading their performance/auto- mation} • Improvement of health infrastructure –is stag- nant at around 2%, according to the Economic Survey released this week (A national tele-mental health programme) {medical textiles can be pro- moted in these infrastructure}. • ‘Parvat Mala’ -- building roads and highways in India’s mountainous region stretching from north to north eastern India {scope for using En- gineered textiles in the form of safety items like parachutes in emergency, safety apparels, etc} • DEVELOPMENT – AGRI- private partnership in en- suring farmers get access to new technologies in agriculture. {projects like Manufacturing of Ba- nana fibre and its products, silk, wool, innovative textiles at fibre stage, organic farming, etc can be focused/undertaken} • “Drone as a service” ‘Drone Shakti” {Drones/fly- ing Robots can be used to reach at places which are in-hygienic /very troublesome to access in textile departments like Wet-Processing/Spin- ning, etc, ITAMMA is on the process of using this technology for International Hybrid Delegation/ MR. N.D. MHATRE Director General (Tech.) ITAMMA
  • 24. 24 TVC | Feb 2022 Technology Scouting Missions} • interlinking five rivers in central and northern In- dia {The scope for Engineered Textiles for filter fabrics/Geo-textiles/Landscape fabrics, etc is de- veloped} • Emergency credit guarantee for MSMEs is being expanded for the hospitality industry and extend- ed until March 2023. {will definitely help MSMEs to come out of their expected debts and overcome the survival stage to growth} • Digital education in a big way. 200 TV and digital channels to support learning in Indian languages, a digital university {this arrangement can be made used to establish the Indian machine catalogues/ literature, etc. at the international platform thus helping the viewer/user to be more user-friendly with the content and thus may develop the scope of new markets} • three recently launched plans aimed at welfare of women {will be useful especially for Handloom/ Handicraft/Cottage Textile Industry where in- volvement of women on higher side} • Rs 60000CR in the budget to drinking water {scope for filter fabrics/recycled fibres for making glasses/bottles, etc} • proposes to start 400 new “Vande Bharat” trains in three years {Scope developed for the Engi- neered textiles utilized in the trains; furnishing/ bed-sheets/covers/, etc} • India’s post offices will be brought on core bank- ing system for better financial inclusion (target of 150,000 post offices into digital financial transac- tion systems, (digital ecosystem) • Chemical-free natural farming will be promoted throughout the country. (Zero Budget Natural Farming - the cost of growing and harvesting plants is zero, as no purchase of fertilizers and pesticides) {Lower duty on some chemicals} • India will use clean tech to improve public trans- port in urban areas (electric vehicles) {suburban railway networks, EV charging stations etc. will create demand for technical textiles} • task force for recognizing potential in the anima- tion, visual effect, gaming sector to open up em- ployment opportunities (may be exploited for tex- tile designing field} • Private industry will be encouraged to take up military equipment designing in collaboration with India’s Defence Research and Development Organisation (65% of the sector capex for local companies in the annual budget) {scope for Engi- neered textiles is developed} • digital rupee using blockchain technology by the central bank in 2022-23 boost India’s startup eco- system (extends tax incentive for startups up to March 2023) • Revokes anti dumping duty for some steel prod- ucts (will help the Textile Engineering Industry} • Make in India can create 60 lakh new jobs, public issue of LIC is expected shortly. Capex target expanded by 35.4 per cent — from Rs 5.54 lakh crore to Rs 7.50 lakh crore. FY23 effective capex seen at Rs 10.7 lakh crore India’s growth highest among all major economies; we are now in a strong position to withstand challenges The goal is complementing macro-growth with micro-all-inclusive welfare, digital economy and fintech, tech-enabled development, energy transition and climate action ECLGS cover expanded by Rs 50,000 to Rs 5 lakh crore Top focus of the budget this year are: PM Gati Shakti, Inclusive Development, Productivity Enhancement, Sunrise Opportunities, Energy Transition, Climate Action, Financing of investments Productivity-linked incentive schemes in 14 sectors have received excellent response; received investment intentions worth Rs 30 lakh crore Economic recovery benefitting from public investment and capital spending. This Budget will provide impetus to growth In 2022-23, states will be allowed fiscal deficit of up to 4 pc of GSDP Reference : The Economic Times ECONOMY UPDATE
  • 25. 25 TVC | Feb 2022 India is a dream whose time has come. The develop- ment of New India and with a focus on self-reliance is the key to its growth story. The textile sector being a major contributor to the GDP of the country also stands aligned with offering its services for the growth of the nation, says Dr. Mohit Raina. Most recently, the Honorable Finance Minister Ms. Nirmala Sitharaman presented the Union Budget. Infrastructure spend of about Rs. 10 lakh crore in the Budget of 2022-23 will help propel the growth of the country as infrastructure acts as a growth multiplier. With the National Infrastructure Pipeline (2020-25) envisaging an investment of Rs 111 lakh crore, the target annual investment ranges between Rs 20-22 lakh crore. National highways will be expanded by 25,000 km during 2022 and the national ropeway development programme will be taken up in the public-private-partnership (PPP) mode. In spite of these investments, corrosion and dilapidation of these structures poses a severe threat to these developments. A study carried out R. Bhaskaran, N. Palaniswamy, and N.S. Rengaswamy published in the Corrosion Reviews 2009 evaluated the cost of corrosion in India to have escalated from 1960 to 1986 by 26-fold and the estimate was pegged at a value of Rs. 40760 million in 1986. Comparing annual cost of corrosion with GDP over the era of newly independent India from 1950-1990, corrosion contributed to about 5.95% the GDP of the country annually. With the growth in the infrastructure sector and the impetus given, we as a country need to make sure that in New India we apply advanced materials to resolve this challenge faced by our very own selves by learning from the past. One might wonder as to what the contribution of the textile community would be to this infrastruc- ture growth. In fact, the textile industry is the only industry, which can help build a sustaina- ble infrastructure by means of fibres, textiles conventionally known as technical textiles. If nature were to be taken as a benchmark, textile and fibrous structures are the ones which provide nature with BUILDING THE NATION WITH TEXTILES Dr. Mohit Raina, Managing Director RAINA INDUSTRIES PRIVATE LIMITED. COVER STORY
  • 26. 26 TVC | Feb 2022 its sustainability. It is time that we seriously begin to learn from nature and create sustainable structure with fibres and textiles. The commonly known names like Buildtech, GeoTech and Marinetech are synonymous to sustainability in the infrastructure domain. Currently, extensive amounts of steel reinforced concrete are being used for building structures all across India. A major challenge faced by steel reinforced concrete is the corrosion resistance of the steel in the coastal areas of India. India has a coastline of 7,517 km. The temperature in the coastal regions often exceeds 30°C (86°F), and is coupled with high levels of humidity. Annual rainfall in this region averages between 1,000 and 3,000 mm (39 and 120 in). These extreme climatic conditions have a great effect on the reinforced structures. Hence, the reinforced structures have to be replaced and restored after every couple of years. The textile component as a reinforcement provides the necessary high tensile strength in a concrete matrix. This leads to an appropriate load carrying capacity for applications in infrastructure. The reinforcement can be realised with short fibre or with long fibre textile structures. The initial contributors comprised of short fibre, generally polypropylene, glass fibres, which were introduced into the concrete matrix. These short fibre reinforcements provide localised reinforce- mentbutduetotheirrandomplacementtheyreduce crack propagation in concrete and are not suitable as elements carrying loads. Research has been carried out to use long fibre/ filaments as structural reinforcement. Use of textiles and fibres can help the reduction of the concrete consumption by up to 80% and also reduction of steel by up to 75%. In addition to corrosion resistance the major advantag- es of textiles and fibres are their better performance characteristics in terms of their strength-weight ratio, durability, flexibility, insulating and absorption properties, and fire and heat resistance. Contribu- tion in sectors such as roadways with soil reinforce- ment, embankment reinforcement, asphalt stability etc., railways with applications ranging from laying the track sleepers to making the railway coach and its interiors, bridges with applications like carbon fibre strengthening to glass fibre reinforcement are going to play a crucial role in building this country. This application will however not only need production, engineering but also formulation of building and construction IS Codes and guidelines for their successful applications. Cross-sectoral collaboration; within Ministries, certifying agencies, research institutes, engineers, operator, manufac- turers and onsite contractors, is needed to facilitate this paradigm shift and transformation in India. India is a dream whose time has come and with the policies aligned towards building a sustainable country, fibres and textiles will definitely play their part. www.textileappareljobs.com
  • 27. 27 TVC | Feb 2022 TURKISH UPHOLSTERY LEADER OPTS FOR MONTEX®COAT Turkish powerhouse in home textiles and furnish- ing fabrics Altun Tekstil has just commissioned the first Montex®Coat coating system in Turkey. The advanced machine has been installed at the ever-expanding family-owned company’s industrial complex in Bursa and is being employed to provide an anti-slip and textured backing to upholstery fabrics with a stable and uniform foam, via knife-over-roller coating. Founded in 1993, Altun exports its fabrics to more than 60 countries, with its major export markets being Russia and Ukraine, as well as many Middle Eastern and European countries. Its integrated operations include the production of texturized yarns, weaving and raschel knitting, in addition to dyeing and finishing. With a major focus on tulle curtains and upholstery, the company’s fabric range also extends to a wide variety of apparel styles. “Despite the current market conditions, our investments continue to increase,” said company owner Murat Altun. “We have established both a knit and woven fabric dyehouse and an integrated upholstery fabric weaving factory, where in 2022 we will also backward integrate into synthetic filament spinning from chips. In the longer term, we plan to bring all of our operations together in a single facility of 350,000 square metres, to employ approximately 10,000 people. We have new investment targets that aim to further reduce our dependence on overseas suppliers and enable us to do everything within our own operations.” AltunhasinstalledeightMonfongsstentersinvarious widths at its two plants since 2016 – coincidentally the year Monforts Turkish representative Neotek was founded. “We have worked with Neotek from the start and both its service and the product quality with Monforts technology are extremely satisfy- ing,” said Plant Manager Mehmet Mor. All of the stenters are engineered for specific product lines and the Montex®Coat unit is integrated into the latest of these lines, which has a maximum working width of 2.2 metres and eight chambers. “With the Montex®Coat unit Altun is able to achieve an even foam application at high speed which results in a very economic process,” said Monforts Sales Manger Thomas Päffgen. The fully integrated line benefits from universal control technology and the unique Monforts visuali- sation system. The Montex®Coat’s borderingsystem has been optimised for enhanced user-friendliness, while the doctor blade adjustment range is the most precise available on the market. Altun Plant Manager Mehmet Mor at the controls of the new machine. The fully integrated line benefits from the unique Monforts visualisation system. NEWS
  • 28. 28 TVC | Feb 2022 The Montex®Coat unit enables an even foam application to be achieved at high speeds. The coater is installed at the front of the eighth Monfongs Montex stenter supplied to the company. 43% UPTURN FOR ITALIAN TEXTILE MACHINERY T he index of orders intake for Italian textile machinery for the fourth quarter of 2021, processed by ACIMIT, the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers, showed a 43% upturn compared to the same period in 2020. In absolute terms, the index stood at 127.9 points (base 100 in 2015). This growth was spurred on by both the Italian and foreign markets. More specifically, domestic orders were up 83% compared to the period October-December 2020, for an absolute value of 234.6. Orders collected abroad grew by 36%, for an absolute index value equal to 116.4. On an annual basis, the index of orders intake increased by 95%, for an absolute value of 128 points. The increase in orders abroad was 79%, while orders collected for domestic market were up 204% compared to what was observed in 2020. Alessandro Zucchi, President of ACIMIT, comment- ed the results of the survey: “We’re experiencing a recovery in the sector that we didn’t quite expect. Production has returned to pre-Covid levels, while foreign demand has been robust in most markets, and in Italy it has benefited from the Government Transition 4.0 incentives.” However, the many orders to be filled are now a cause for concern, given the scarce availability of components and raw materials due to the interruption of supply chains. Added to this is the sharp rise in the cost of energy. Thus, 2022 is expected to be a year in which optimism and foreboding still prevail for the Italian textile machinery sector, pending ITMA 2023, the world’s most important textile machinery exhibition, scheduledtobeheldinMilaninJune2023.“Themany registered Italian manufacturers are an important signal,” concludes ACIMIT’s President, adding that, “ITMA Milan will mark a definitive relaunching of the textile machinery sector, and will confirm Italy’s leadership in the field of textile technologies. This will be a must opportunity for all Italian businesses.” ALESSANDRO ZUCCHI ACIMIT
  • 29. 29 TVC | Feb 2022 VANDEWIELE-SAVIO INDIA MERGER FINALISED Vandewielen & Savio India announced that they had finalised the merging process, creating a global network for their customers. The two companies will operate under the new name of Vandewiele-Savio India Private Limited. “We are convinced that these joined forces provide a comprehensive network of integrated services that will better serve our customer’s needs for the Indian market”. This strategic alliance is set to immensely benefit the Indian textile industry, as the expertise from these two leading groups, offering complete weaving, winding, twisting solutions to the Indian customers, will give them a sustainable competitive advantage in their business. About Vandewiele Vandewiele builds carpet looms, velvet looms, jacquard machines and integrate innovative textile systems for flooring qualities, home linen, fashion fabrics and technical textiles. Sharing inspiration and expertise with our customers worldwide, we shape the textile industry of the future. Creating success for them all, from yarn to finished product. Our Research and Development department and test-engineers are continuously developing new applications. The innovative breakthroughs of Vandewiele give a boost to the textile industry. About SAVIO Over its 110+ years history, Savio acted as technological leader and most innovative player in attractive niches of the textile value chain. Savio leverages on the best value-for-money proposition in the industry. It has a consolidated presence in all relevant geographies with a local-for-local approach, allowing Savio to promptly address market demand and requirements. Savio is specialized in the textile machinery sector for the yarn finishing segment being the leading supplier of winding and twisting machines with manufacturing plants in Italy, China and India. Savio India, the advanced TFO manufacturing set up of Savio group in India, will continue to provide and ensure state of the art Customer Support and Spare Parts Services. Vandewiele-Savio India Private Limited The merger of the Group activities has resulted in a wide range of synergies in the service, care solutions and developments, with benefits for the customers. VANDEWIELE-SAVIO INDIA Is ready to provide the region with high class Textile machines with cost effectiveness and the best support.With its corporate office located at Coimbatore with a strength of about 250 people and sales and service offices at Coimbatore, Ludhiana, Ahmedabad, Kolhapur and Thane covering the whole product range of the group .This will enforce the support and strength towards the company’s Indian customers and increase its customer centricity. NEWS
  • 30. Autocard The new Autocard has been developed to create further value in the fibre preparation chain. The flexible portfolio offers the right solutions for preparation of all kinds of staple fibres for the subsequent processes. The right combination of blow room and carding ensures excellent fibre utilisation and sliver quality for high efficiency and yarn quality in spinning. saurer.com Be prepared. Ad-Autocard-TextileValueChain-8.5x11in-EN-220207.indd 1 Ad-Autocard-TextileValueChain-8.5x11in-EN-220207.indd 1 07.02.22 12:27 07.02.22 12:27
  • 31. TVC | Feb 2022 Omax Cotspin Pvt. Ltd, located at Dhrangadhra, Gujarat, is one of the fastest growing textile companies in international markets with all the modern integrated facilities in 25 acres of land with 75000 spindle age capacity. Jayesh Patel, Director at Omax Cotspin, replied to a questionnaire sent by the Textile Value Chain. Excerpts: YARN ORDERS FOR NEXT 3 MONTHS LINED UP : JAYESH PATEL What were the Challenges that you faced during the Pandemic? How did you handle them? D uring the first wave of Covid-19, it was weak demand: we were feeling that demand has weakened across most of the industries due to weak consumer sentiment, job losses, and as consumers defer their non-discretionary purchases andfocusonbuyingessentialitems.Thesupplychain disruptions: The curb on movement of people and non-essential goods has affected the supply chain, leading to shortage of raw materials. The coronavi- rus outbreak in major raw material supplying has affected due to movement of raw materials across the country. Labour/capacity underutilization: The exodus of unemployed migrant laborers to their native places has further added to the ongoing problems of industries. The worry remains whether they will return to work soon given their recent traumatic experience of job losses and travel hardships. The shortage of manpower and shorter duration of work hours have affected the capacity utilization of industries and there is no clear sign when normalcy will return due to the ongoing uncertainty about finding a cure for the pandemic. Workforce health and business in “New Normal”: Maintaining the health of workers in “New Normal” also remains a challenging task for industries in the absence of proper guidelines. They had to temporarily shut down due to the coronavirus pandemic. ... For established companies, the challenges came from increased administrative bottlenecks, and issues with reduced logistics services and infrastructures, The complete lockdown and partial lockdowns had both demand-side and supply-side impacts on the manufacturing sector. On the supply side, the limited movement of goods, services, and personnel affected the production network. The situation improved gradually and confidence towards the business outlook for production rose as a phased reopening of the economy was announced. However, with this recovery and subsequent gradual reopening of the economy, the country succumbed to a second wave of the virus. INTERVIEW 31
  • 32. 32 TVC | Feb 2022 A second wave was witnessed towards the end of the 2020 financial year. The country’s optimis- tic recovery was thrust into further uncertainty as cases increased far more rapidly than the first wave. The fatality rate amongst individuals increased as several States introduced restrictions and curfews to mitigate the loss of life in the second wave. Healthcare infrastructure in the country faced a total collapse as citizens ran helter-skelter in search of beds, oxygen cylinders, and resources to survive the second wave. This widespread devastation further instilled fear amongst the citizens as new variants proved to be more potent leading to a mass breakout in the Tier I cities and a surge in the rural regions. This led to individuals being confined to their homes, more out of choice and fear. The number of people working during the second wave was much smaller as compared to those working during the first wave, which translated to slower economic recovery. With lockdowns slowly being reimposed, States allowed certain relaxations and permissions to keep the economic impact to a minimum. While the second wave is expected to upset economic growth, the overall impact is expected to be moderate as businesses and States have adjusted their businesses and cycles to the COVID situation prevalent. In the handling of pandemic corona, we ensured effective communication with employees. How leaders behave during critical moments leaves a lasting mark on their companies and people. Therefore, a consistent and effective communica- tion and interaction with employees have strength- en the company and enhanced the culture. We shared the up-to-date and relevant information about COVID-19 symptoms and disease prevention recommendations among company employees. We used only credible sources of information, such as the World Health Organization. We have established a dedicated hotline or conduct a series of remote seminars with relevant health professionals to facilitate question and answer sessions with your employees. Besides, we provided a psychological and financial support to our employees, such as emergency assistance, additional insurance coverage, regular payroll payments. We focused on organising a safe work environment: purchase of medical equipment and supplies (e.g., thermometers, antibacterial products such as mask sanitizer), self-monitoring of employees’ health, and disinfection of workplaces. We developed and communicated clear rules and obligations for employees who are at risk These include the requirement for a 14-day self-isolation of such employees and cancellation of all meetings with the clients and co-workers. We have ensured the safety of working environments by thoroughly cleaning and disinfecting workplaces. In the event that an employee is suspected of being infected with COVID-19, a clear process must be in place for removing that employee from the facility, and for proper treatment of the facility. We updated our travel and meeting policies. Besides, we made sure that your social media policy is properly defined for this crisis. It is provided clear guidelines with regard to how employees can talk about your business and the impact of COVID-19 on operations and employee health and safety. We providedemployeeswithaninternalcommunication channel to report what they are seeing and feeling within the organisation to ensure direct communi- cation as an alternative to social media. We worked through the most difficult scenarios and prepared appropriate communications for our employees in advance because our task is to provide a construc- tive response. As you are involved in 3 sectors: Garment, Fabric & Yarn, so how is the situation now? The domestic textile industry, which had seen demand slump in fiscal 2021 owing to onset of the Covid-19 pandemic, is firmly on course to recover in fiscal 2022 on the back of reopening of businesses, educational institutions and retail outlets with increase in the vaccinated population. The Government announcements such as the Production Linked Incentive scheme, setting up of mega textile parks, and extension of the Rebate of State and Central Taxes and Levies scheme are also supporting the sector. The global textile industry is changing to meet the needs of the new market. With new trends in technology, domestic sales, green textiles and environmental sustainability, textiles will no longer just be clothing anymore. These
  • 33. 33 TVC | Feb 2022 new trends have started to increase growth in the market as well. We recognised both the opportunity and the responsibility for business to take a lead role in addressing pressing global issues. As we continue to embrace change and position our company for long-term success, we believe that CR will help us achieve sustainable growth by managing risk, maximizing efficiency and driving value. Through our collective efforts, we seek to create value for society, the environment, and our business, all while moving the industry. Explore opportunities for automation and efficiency upliftment as well as plan and implement up-skilling of employees to prepare them for the re-engineered processes/ systems. There is a high demand for yarn. There are orders for the next three months lined up. The textile industry continues to be the second-largest employment generating sector in the India Tell us about the Research and Development efforts in the last few years. We have undertaken a CO 2 PROJECT to reduce CO2 emissions and energy consumption for our suppliers to stabilise our environmental impact. We have launched a GREEN COMPACT PROJECT. We have converted normal spinning into compact spinning yarn to increase the production, quality to value addition. We have presented recycled product. Rotor spinning also known as open-end spinning has been taken up. It uses a carded sliver that is fed onto a succession of single-spiked rollers that run at high speed. These rollers open the sliver so that the fibres can be fed almost individually via an airstream onto a grooved funnel that spins at a fast rate. In Compact spinning, the Elite Compact spinning system incorporated for 23000 spindles, which organises fibres in a parallel, close position before twisting, thereby reducing hairiness and improving tenacity. It also reduces imperfections. It improves evenness and reduces the ends-down rate. What about the technologies and machinery for all the segments? We have installed bobbin transport system in unit 1 spinning. We have incorporated spindle monitor- ing system. The mill has installed pinters individual monitoring system. This helps us in avoiding rough spindles idle spindles. the automatic winders are connected with visual manager and integrated with smart support system. Through this we can monitor daily performance. We have also incorporated roving stop motion in all the spinning to control the roving waste. Which are the New Products that you have launched for these 3 Sectors & what are their USPs? In yarn: 1. Compact yarn. 2.Recycle yarn. 3.Lycra yarn. 4.Organic yarn In Knitting: 1. Rib type. 2.Lycra. 3.Honey comb. 4.Picku. 5.Two thread fleecy. 6.Single rib. 7.Lycra rib. 8.Turbe. Drop needles In garment: 1. Basic rib neck. 2.T Shirt. 3.P Q-T Shirt. Brand: Indian Archers What are the different fabrics and yarns that you make? Omax Cotspin has a production line which can manufacture yarns of various counts ranging from 16s to 50s hosiery weaving yarn. The production capacity is around 50000 kg per day. We have also started manufacturing fancy yarns such as LYCRA & SLUB. Omax Cotspin has a production line which can manufacture OE yarns from count range to 4s to 20s with the production capacity of 20000 kg per day. In knitting fabrics, Omax Cotspin has extended its capability into knitting and hosiery fabrics, manufac- tured with our own best quality of yarn. The fabric width will be ranging from 18 diameters to 40 diameters. We are also into manufacturing LYCRA & SLUB Knitted Fabric. Futureofyourcompanyintheyears2022-2023? The textile industry is expected to attract higher investment by 2022-23 and create about 35 million additional jobs in the process. Exports are also expected to rise. The upcycle fashion uses either pre-consumers or post-consumer’s wastes to manufacture new products. The process reuses old clothes without going through the recycling process. The fashion industry is going to be more sustainable with repaired, redesigned, and upcycled fashion.
  • 34. 34 TVC | Jan 2022 F A R M T O F A S H I O N F A R M I N G G I N N I N G K N I T T I N G D Y E I N G A N D P R I N T I N G G A R M E N T I N G S P I N N I N G 1800 - 889 - 6020 info@omaxcotspin.com www.omaxcotspin.com Sr. No. 842,843,845/1, Near. Petrol Pump, Village Rajsitapur , Ta. Dhrangadhra Dist. Surendranagar. Gujarat. (INDIA).
  • 35. 35 TVC | Feb 2022 MORE ROOM FOR MODERNISATION OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY : S.K.CHATTOPADHYAY Share your Education and Professional Journey I passedWestBengalHigherSecondaryExamination in first division in 1974 and was awarded a National Scholarship. I opted for a professional engineering degree course in Textile Technology under Calcutta University and passed the same with a first class in 1978. I joined Kesoram Cotton Mills Limited (now, KesoramIndustries Limited) Kolkata and started my professional career. Thereafter, I worked in HindoostanSpinning and Weaving Mills Limited (Thackersey Group) Mumbai in the years 1979-81. I did my full-time Master degree in Textile Engineering from IIT Delhi in 1983 and joined the Raebareli unit of U. P. State Spinning Mills Co No.1 as the Quality Control Incharge. Thereafter, I cleared the Agricultural Research Services (ARS) examination and joinedCentral Institute for Research on Cotton Technology (CIRCOT), then known as Cotton Technological Research Laborato- ry (CTRL), Mumbai,under the control ofIndian Council of Agricultural Research (ICAR). I worked there in various capacities such as, Scientist, Senior Scientist, Principal Scientist, Head of the Mechanical Processing Division and Director, before retiring in February 2020.Presently, I am working as a freelanc- er in academics, research journal publication and machine learning application in factory automation. Being a researcher and educationist, tell your journey in industry and research, and the interaction The 40-year full time professional journey was challenging, but engrossing and interesting. The feeling was exhilarating, as throughout the journey for about four decades, the technology was constantly churning and upgrading. I was witness- ing innovations more often in the industry, and Dr. S. K. Chattopadhyay retired from CIRCOT in 2020 after having worked for nearly four decades in various capacities in mills. Presently, he is a freelancer in academics, research journal publication and machine learning application in factory automation. Dr. Chattopadhyay replied exclusively to a Questionnaire sent by the Textile Value Chain. Excerpts: INTERVIEW
  • 36. 36 TVC | Feb 2022 there wasurgency to adapt quickly to the changes and bring out more innovations to be relevant in the industry. It was indeed a roller coaster ride, which was immensely satisfyingthen. I presume that the same was thefeelingof my contemporaries. When I joined the industry,the basic calculators were not available in the shop floor and the very first lesson of the training was to remember square roots ofall thread numbers and intermediate roving hank numbers by-heart to facilitate quick twist setting on the spinning machines. In the quality control lab, the most prized equipment was Filden-Walker first generation yarn evenness tester, which is now a prized collection inthe London Science Museum and Bradford Industrial Museum (UK).During the period, thoughmanyspinning millswere aggressively modernising their machines with Top Arm Drafting system replacing the iconicCasablanca system, the mill owners in general were not convinced with the replacement of old and lengthy blowroom line with a shorter version equipped with modern beaters and cleaners, due to high cost associated with such a replacement. This was the time when the organised sector was slowly losing the grip on fabric productionto the rising decentralisedpower- loom sector. The wet processing of textiles was the real woe, depending fully on the dyeing masters’ experience and bereft of any concern for the environment. After joining CIRCOT in 1985, I initiated a research programme on causes and control of faults in Indian cotton yarns,which was then a burning problem of the spinning industry, regularly receiving complaintsfrom thegrowing export markets. We procured an electronic fault classify- ing equipment which was quite expensive in those days, and therefore, only two other machines were available in Mumbai then. My institute also, under my initiative and supervision,monetised this gap in the industry, and allowed mills to take advantage of the facility for assessing their yarns, conducted a number of diagnostic mill vs. laboratory trials, androped in students of the textile institutes to do their dissertationsto investigate the problem and suggested measures to contain faults in Indian yarn. It is hearting to note that Indian spinning industry is now producing the best of the yarn quality, particu- larly in terms of evenness, imperfections and faults. Even many mills are achieving a quality better than the Uster 5% world standard, compared to 25% or even poorer quality yarns, which many mills were producing before the 1990s. I think this isto be regarded as the single most significantachievement in which I was fully involved, and was collective- ly brought in by the joint efforts of the industry, research, and educational institutions. My field of research broadly included post-harvest processing and blending of fibres, development of machines for small sample spinning, modern spinning systems (rotor, air-jet and DREF friction), yarn splicing,poly lactic acid (PLA)fibres,technical textiles, and composites. In mid-1990s, through some market study, my team found that though there was a good demand for miniature spinning machines for producing yarn from small fibre samples, such machines were not available in India. The option was to import machines with a pretty old design, and ata veryhigh price, which was not desirable. Therefore, me and my team, took up developing entirely miniature modern spinning machines, initially controlled by microprocessor, then by programmable logic control (PLC) and finally, by personal computer (PC).Though the designing of the miniature machines was a technically challeng- ing task which we could successfully do, thefurther major challenge wasto convince anentrepreneur to replicate the machines and manufacture them at one fourth the cost of the imported one. This challenge was also resolved by us and it gives me immense satisfaction that, the licensee who collabo- rated with us has produced and sold more than hundreds of such machinesto various stakeholders, who found the system/machineshandy, useful and economical. Further, the research done by my team on utilisation of indigenous short and fine wool including Angora rabbit-hairs in blends with cotton for production of finer quality of woven and knitted fabrics, and for production of finer cotton-ramie blended yarns by adopting commercial cotton spinning system were unprecedented, and attracted much attention from the peers. We compared the performance of Indian cottons and their blends on ring, rotor and air-jet spinning systemsas early as in the 1990s, shortly after commercialization of the air-jet spinning machines.
  • 37. 37 TVC | Feb 2022 My doctorate thesis has dealt with the formulation of a theoretical model to predict the fibre twisting- happening inside a rotating rotor that is inaccessi- ble and cannot be seen in our view during the rotor spinning process.The model has emphasised the need of fibre engineering for quality yarn spinning and has experimentally validated. Then, under funding from the National Agricultural Innovation Project (NAIP), I was the Co-Consorti- um Project Investigator (CCPI) in two subprojects. Under the Basic and Strategic Research subproject of NAIP, I notably participated in the design and development of textile reinforced rubber dams for regulating water flow in a watershed for its storage, ground recharging and assured water supply in lean times. The development hasmade possibleto enhance crop productivity and cropping intensity in the project area, and many units have been installed in watersheds across the country, benefitting the farmers. In the other subproject on value chain for coconut fibre and its by-products, basic machines for extraction,segregation of coarse and fine fibres, scientific fibre grading, product diversification have been achieved. Besides conducting many industry sponsored studies, I, along with my colleagues have published- in national and international journalsand presented in seminars and conferencesabout 300 research and technical papers, book chapters and leafletse- manating from our various research studies.I have received a number of recognitions and awards for my contribution in research. In the last leg of my active research career, I inspired two bright young scientiststo join me in groundbreaking research using plant waste bio-macromolecule extractsfor preparation of sustainableflame resisting and UV protective cellulosic textiles that has now received wide international attention. The Latest Science (Abraham Thomas Foundation, USA) has acknowl- edged our contributionfor making an impact on scientific knowledge in Material Science and as a mark of recognition, displayed on their website, thesurface topography of the char residue of fire retardant cellulose reported by us for the first time. As a Mentor, what qualities and capabilities you looked for in your post-graduate student- sand young scientist colleagues while involving them into research projects and what qualities you inculcate in them, when they work with you? For a good number of years, I co-guided many textile technologypost-graduate students from reputed engineering institute like VJTI, Mumbai.Besides, from time to time, I,as the lead investigator, was guiding those research fellows and associates recruited in various time-bound externally funded projects, including two subprojects of National Agricul- tural Innovation Project (NAIP) of ICAR, funded by the WorldBank. In my long service in CIRCOT, I chose from time to time many younger colleague scientists and technical officers to be associated in the investigation of the projects formulated by me and mentored them. Particularly, when I was the Director of the institute, I could get about eight new young scientists to join CIRCOT and mentor them for research career. In a young researcher,I always looked for their thorough involvement in the investigation of the problem, inclination to be involved in painstaking experimentations, integrity in data collection and recordingandlogicalthinking.Mymentoringinvolves not only in guiding them in conducting a fair investi- gation, but also in the analysis of collected data, modification of experiments, repeatand confirma- tion study, participation in draft report prepara- tion and publication in a reputed/standard journal. Often, I have observed that though the technical and scientific content of research is excellent, but the paper is denied publication because of its poor presentation, obscure language and avoidable errors. Colleges do not teach how to write a good scientific paper.This task requiresmentoring to the young researchers onhow to write an error-less and fluid paperthat will impress upon and convey the science behind the experiment effectively to the reviewersand the readers. With the availability of online ‘Editorial Manager’ and publication software, most international journals engagetheservicesof3to10peerreviewerstoreview a submission, for publication. Often, a manuscript is rejected due to its poor readability. This was not much of a problem earlier, as the journal used to
  • 38. 38 TVC | Feb 2022 get it improved by itslanguage editor without any charge. But many journals have now discontinued the service, and instead, ask the author to avail a paid language service. A researcher based in the third world countries may not find it easy to pay the charge in dollars of his own. Therefore, as a mentor, while critically reviewing the technical content in their papers, Iused to polish and rectify my juniors’ written English language, stressing the need of writing a research paper in simple sentences, so that the readability of the manuscript improves. What are the latest trends and futuristic developments in the spinning industry? Ring frame is the oldest and versatile yarn spinning machine, came into market ever since Whitin MachineWorksstartedmanufacturingitinthe1840s. Even though the basic technology of ring spinning remain largely unchanged, the machine design has undergone significant developments over the years for improved performance, as the industry still prefers it for its capacity to spin a wide range of yarn count (linear density) from almost any type of staple fibres. Ring frame producesa unique, superior quality of yarn compared to those yarns produced by the newer spinning systems like rotor, air-jet/ air vortex spinning systems, which are available in the market for the last 30-50 years. This is despite the restricted rate of yarn production due to limitations in spindle speed, high-power consumption, traveller wear, heat generation and yarn tension.As such, the productivity of each ring spindle is about 1/10th of a rotor spinning and 1/20th of the air jet spinning machines. While the rotor spinning is mostly limited to coarse yarn production, and the vortex spinning to polyester blended yarns in the medium to fine count range, thering spinning can traverse in allareas of spun yarn production. In fact, its latest commercially successfulvariant, the compact ring spinning, introduced by a couple of manufactur- ers at ITMA 1999 Paris exhibitionis the preferred machine nowadays.Presently, with about 230 million installed spindles world over, ring spinning is producing thethree-quarter of the total staple yarn of around 45 million tons produced. So, one can safely deduce that the ring spinning will remain the undisputed leader in the staple yarn production and continue to dominate the restin this century too. The maximum spindle speed of themost advanced spinning frame is currently about 25,000 rpm limited by the ring-traveller speed of about 45 m/s, beyond which the traveller gets burnt due to excessive friction while moving on the ring. Efforts are in full force in the R&D labs of various machine manufac- turers and institutions to tackle the criticality of the process andmake a breakthrough in productiv- ity. Research is mainly directed in three sensitive design issues of the ring frame, (i) reduction of friction between the ring and the traveller, like using the Orbit technology, where the contact surface between the ring and traveller has been enlarged by 4~5times for better heatdissipation (ii)modifying the ring-traveller system altogether, say by using a superconducting magnetic bearing (SMB) system to create a frictionless twisting during spinning, and (iii) reduction of yarn twist to increase the productivity, like in Nu-Torque technology, which incorporates a false twister to lower twisting rate during spinning. The big question is whether in future anyone or more such futuristic technology will succeed and double the ring spindle speed to 50,000 rpm, say by the year 2050. Concerning the developments of the preparatory machines to yarn spinning, the past tendency was to keep on increasing the production speeds and simultaneously improving, or at least maintain- ingthestatus quo in the processed material quality. Besides a great deal of effortswere put to achieve a near perfect opening and cleaning, and removing undesirable short fibres from cotton, auto control of material uniformity, increasingcapacities of interme- diate packages, their auto-doffingand auto transport to the next machine. It appears that spinning preparatory machines have already reached to an admirable level of technology and the fact that the production capacity of preparatory section is higher than the actual spinning need, will deter the developments to continue in the similar fashion. In near future,manyapplications of computer science is expected. The machines themselves will decide how to adjust and run optimally based on the analysis of big past data (machine learning and artificial intelli- gence) without any interference of the technical supervisors, as is in the vogue now. Remote supervi- sion and servicing of machines (Internet of Thing) will get significant importance. I will elaborate these terms in the later part of my interview. The advent of robots in large scale is also not ruled out, as the
  • 39. 39 TVC | Feb 2022 absolute purity of fibre processing to spin yarns can be best preserved, if human beings refrain from touching fibres and manipulating them. How has the textile industry technologically evolved in the last few years? The industry needs enormous drivingforce to equip itself with the latest technologies and upgrades, as the action is highly capital intensive. The sector has become the most severely affected among manufacturing sectors due to the novel Coronavi- rus pandemic, prevailing for last two years. Before that also, the industry was experiencing sluggish demand in export markets and rising competi- tionfrom countries such as Vietnam, Bangladesh, China, andTurkey. The cascading effect of external demand shock along with domestic demand slack has resulted in lower production in all sectors of the industry. However, government initiatives to bolster the industry have raised hopes. At the forefront of the industryis the relativelymodernisedspinning sectorthathas gained global eminence with 30% market share for being a dependable supplier of quality yarns. India hasthe second-largest staple yarn spinning capacity withabout 48 million installed ring spindles, and producing approximate- ly 6 billion kilograms of yarn.Under the prevailing situation, a large-scale further capacity augmenta- tion, which we have witnessed in the past, cannot be expected. Mostly the spinningmills are upgrading technology, like replacing conventional ring frames with compact spinning, selectivelyacquiringrotor spinning for coarser yarn production and air-vortex machines for polyester blended yarn spinning. Acquisition of key technologies, like contami- nation detector, modern carding and combing machines, auto-doffing and other automation systems,including the latest generation of link winder with yarn cleaning system etc.,continues in the priority list, mainly aimed at maintaining the competitive edge in the yarn export market. The spinning industry still has older machines with about 15 million spindle capacity,which areproduc- ing yarn inefficiently and need to be discarded or replaced with modern machines, so the sector is labelled as the fully modernized industry. Coming to weaving sector, 97% ofabout 76 thousand million square meters of fabrics (excluding Khadi, Wool, and Silk), are producedannually in the country by the decentralisedpowerloomsector. However, this sector intrinsically lacks modernisation, and is believed to have only 4% modern shuttleless looms out of about 25 lakhs installed capacity. As oftoday, most of the production is made with semi-automatic looms. But, thanks to the various policy interven- tions by the Governmentperiodically, the situation is improvingwith the sector adopting more and more automatic and shuttleless looms. The recent thrust of GOI to augment production of indigenous technical textile will also encourage the sector for weaving more of synthetics,heavier and higher width fabrics, that will invariably force the industryto adopt more modern looms. The Indian textile wet processing sector is on the course of erasing the infamous label on it being one of the most polluting industries, thanks to the growing public awareness and concerns related to global warming, climate change, green-house-gas emission, carbon footprint, water scarcity, sustain- ability, etc.The sector has about 2500 units, out of which about 200 is in the organised sector, and the rest as micro, small and medium enterprise (MSME) manufacturers, making the moderni- sation a challenging task. The sector is slowly adopting or considering proactive measures, like combined scouring and bleaching,ultra-low liquor ratio machines, supercritical CO2 dyeing,combined dyeing and finishing,enzyme based biodegrad- able chemicals, low foam surfactants, bio-scouring, non-fluoro water repellents, zero discharge of hazardous chemicals (ZDHC),halogen free flame retardants, micro-encapsulated coatings, one bath one-step dyeing for polyester-cotton blended fabrics,high fixative dyes,digital printing, sublima- tion printing, efficient solvent recovery, etc. In the garmenting sector, out of about one lakh units in the country, 80% are in micro, small and medium enterprise (MSME) manufacturers, rest 20% in the organised sector that mainly caters to the export markets. The garment production was at about 22 billion pieces in 2019-20, while made-ups stood at approx. 2.4 billion kg. India exported garments worth US$15,509 million and made-ups of about US$6,941 million in the said year.The sector is equipping with or considering adoption of new technologies such as,high-speed sewing machines, laser-cutting machines, new pressing and fusing machines, buttonhole machines, seam
  • 40. TVC | Feb 2022 bonding machines, seamless garment, digital and 3Dprinting, computer-aided design CAD), assembly line automation, computer-aided manufacturing (CAM). Across the board, the Indian textile industry is experiencing a tremendous growth potential due to various technological advancements, automation and artificial intelligence in machinery and process- es, data-driven customer operations, applica- tion of data analytics in decision-making, besides eco-consciousness and increasing concern on manufacturing circularity.In testimony thereof, the industry has become an attractive destination for FDI, thanks to the recent policyinitiatives of the GOI. Sustainability, Carbon footprint, Waste management how it’s relevant and important? It’s just a talk of the town or any fruitful measures taken by industry? These are the trending terms nowadays in everybody’s mind, as the world, including India, bolsters its effort towards achieving net-zerocarbon emission to protect the earthand make it eternal- lyliveable for our future generation.Sustainability is a system or practice that should be adhered in our life, profession, business, service, collective and co-operative actions, so that we take from the earth only those resources that are easily renewable. This will do no harm to the environment and allow meeting the needs of the current generation without affecting the potential needs of the future generations.Waste control and management including using energy and water efficiently, are important means to attain and maintain the wheel of sustainability, On the other hand, carbon footprint is an indicator or a measure of sustainability. It is the total amount of greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions, including carbon dioxide and methane which are generated by us and by our actions, and expressed as carbon-dioxide equivalent (CO2e). Needless to say, lower is the carbon footprint, the better we are doing for the sustainability of the earth. These terms may appear new to the textile industry, but it is many times resorting to discrete measures on an incremental basis to reduce their adverse impact.I give a few examples. Installation of variable frequency drive (VFD) system, soft-starter along with energy-efficient motors, improving power factor, use of lighter-weight yarn and fabric package, lighter spindle, efficient spindle oil in bolsters, sandwich jointless tape, lighter-weight pulley in place of drum driving the ring spindles, use of false-ceiling and return hot-air from pneumafils in spinning shop floor, optimum ring diameter relative to yarn package and balloon setting, intermit- tent movement of empty conveyor, use of steam heating in place of electric heating, use of mist nozzles for yarn conditioning, FRP impellers in fans replacing aluminum ones, combined treatments in wet processing, bath recovery system, counter- flow current washing, cold treatments, continu- ous washing, heat recovery unit, HTHP machines, enzymatic scouring and washing, use of sensors and control system, less water and less temperature wet processing, treatment of dye house effluents to recover chemicals and water for reuse, etc. Since 1980s, Indian textile industries are adopting various suchmeasures to reduce the cost of production by saving raw materials, chemicals, energy, water, compressed air, and adopting waste recovery and reuse measures.Thus,even when the sustainabil- ity issue was not of much concern world-over, the textile industry adopted measures which have acted beneficially in improving the sustainability of the industry. Needless to say, much is desired to be done, particularly in extending the coverage to the medium and small sectors of the industry. The point to be noted is that when we are in textile production business, it is just not feasible notto harm anything. We cannot adhere to the very basic definitions of sustainability stated aboveas a whole. What is possible and important in this juncture is that we go on reducing consumption of non-renewable raw materials for textile production, hunt for alternate source of renewable inputs including energy, stop using harmful chemicals, not drain them in the environment, and go extra-miles to ensure that whatever we produce or discard during the manufacture, is reused to the maximal. In this context, the definition given by K. Fletcher (2009) is more practical and should be the policy guideline for the textile industry. He stated, “A sustainable product is one that is manufactured in such a way that it has the lowest possible adverse effect on the environment. e.g., by making the most efficient use of resources such as water and energy and which goes the extra mile to recover raw materials, e.g., 40
  • 41. TVC | Feb 2022 by the recycling of as much water as possible or by recovering the heat from wastewater discharges”. What is more important is that the industry must include a sustainability agenda in the business policy and ensure an acceptable auditing.It should periodicallyself-declare the various indicators of sustainability it has attained, and the time-bound goal it has set for the organisation. The industry association like CITI should come forward and take the lead in setting the quantitative and qualitative norms for each segment of the textile industryfor a positive environmental impact, rather than the government set norms by legislation or foreign buyers insist on certain norms as a pre-condition to buy Indian textiles. This apart, another essential concern for the textile industry is the circularity of production of both goods and wastes throughout the value chain. If nothing is thrown out as rubbish for landfills in the earth and emissions released in the environment are controlled, and ifthe remnants of the product at the end of their lifecycles,as well as the discards are reprocessed and reused, much will be done to improve the sustainability. Indeed, Panipat’s textile recycling units in the decentralised sector are doing an impressive job by processing textile wastes collected through their network and turning the waste into useful products for reuse. Various actions for circularity of the economy should be in-built in the quest for attaining the sustainabil- ity goal of the production unit.Today’s Indian textile industry economy is mostly of a linear nature, Take–Make–Waste. It must be turned into a circular withthe order of using the non-sustainable raw materials and chemicals as, Avoid—Alternative— Reduce—Reuse—Recycle.The earlier we transform, the better is the sustainability of the nation. How Data Analysis, Machine Learning, AI, Block Chain is important for the industry and how we can implement in textile and apparel industry? These are emerging developments in the field of computer science, but not limited to only companies dealing with information technology. They are being increasingly used by other industries as well to optimize the resources, bring post-production and customer experience in a seamless loop, and run the business intelligently empowered by improved data analytics. In fact, these are some important components of the Fourth Industrial Revolution that has poised to redefine traditional boundaries of the present industries, not only to change the way we work and relate to one another, butalso, to createmany new opportunities.The textile industry cannot remain insulated from such spectacular developments. In the past, the industry has adopted all significant developments made inthe first to third industrial revolutions, got enriched technologically and reached to the present height of phenome- nal success. In the same way, sooner or letter, the textile and apparel industry is going to adopt and implement all the beneficial technologies of the present industrial revolution to empower itself and convert every production unit as a ‘smart’ factory. As such, big data and machine learning are different from each other, but these two hot trending technologies are used in combination for a success- ful business. The input to the machine learning algorithms is the information extracted by analysis of big data. This input is then learned by the machine learning models to predict the desired outputs.We all use data in our profession as well as in daily life for better understanding of events, and for decision- making. But these are relatively ‘small’ data, and often we may use Excel like spreadsheet or other dedicated computer programmes for analysis of the data and its interpretation. But as the world turns more and more into digital, we areoften fed with huge amount of data, better known as big data that cannotbe handled the way we are handling small data.Giving example from the textile field say, visualinspection of fabric defects post-weaving is traditionally done on an illuminated inspection frame, where only a limited number of defects on a restrictive scale per unit time can be recorded, and classification of defects is done manually. However, if the inspection can be performed by capturing images of the portions of the fabric continually with a high-speed camera during the manufacturing process itself, it is possible to gather a massive data on fabric defects rapidly and perform anerrorless classification based on the algorithm. In this case, we will be dealing with big data on non-conformi- ties in our fabric production. Big data is typically characterisedby ‘5V’s namely, Volume (of data), Variety (different types of data), Velocity (speed at which the datais gathered and processed), Veracity (quality and consistency of data), and Value 41
  • 42. TVC | Feb 2022 (usefulness of the data after extraction of informa- tion and interpretation). Machine learning (ML) on the other hand, enables machines/computers to learn from experiences (i.e., from information provided by big data) to find out patterns, insights, learn more and make decisions without human intervention (i.e., without explicitly doing the programming). Thus, instead of writing code, we just feed big data to the generic algorithm, and the algorithm itself builds the logic based on the given input data.Big data analytics is all about collecting and transforming raw data into extracted information, and this data information is then used by the machine learning algorithms to predict better results or future without or with minimal human intervention. The machine learning is a subset of AI (artificial intelligence). In our example of capturing big data on fabric defects, ML can do numerous classifications of defects, including identification of source and cause of defects based on its algorithms and continuous learning fromthe extracted informa- tion. Artificial Intelligence (AI) is also known as machine intelligence, since it mimics the human thought process and enables machines to function on their own similar to human intelligence, like the ability to perceive, learn, reason, and act. It concerns develop- ment of intelligent or smart machines, those can think and work like humans. In our cited example on fabric defect detection, at present a trained ‘human being’ working on the inspection tableapplies his logic and decides whether a fabric with a particu- lar defect is to be altogether rejected or it is to be allowed after mending the defect manually with a hand tool. In future, this job of the human being is likely to be simulated by an AI-powered robot that will apply logic more rationally and accurately, and mend the defects precisely and tirelessly. Thus, when acting in fusion, these three technolo- gies, namely Big Data Analytics, ML and AI are likely to bring disruptive changes in textile productions and businesses. A blockchain is essentially a digital ledgeror record of transactions that allow digital information or transaction to be recorded and distributed, but not edited.Every time a new transaction occurs on the blockchain, a record of that transaction is added to every participant’s ledger. Itbeing an immutable ledger, the said transaction cannot be altered, deleted, or destroyed. As the decentralised database is managed by multiple participants in a blockchain, it is also known as Distributed Ledger Technology (DLT).Currently the blockchain is used for management of complex textile/apparel supply chain characterised by a vast network of manufac- turers, warehouses, transport depots, communica- tion channels and logistic providers, each managing own databases and logistics. In a blockchain, flow of data happens continuously in a real time and the same is visible to all permitted parties, as it is a single immutable ledger, in contrast to commonly adopted conventional mutable multiple ledgers with fragmented data. Thus, the blockchain allows a retailer to build more customer-centric supplychains that prioritize authentication and trust. The other likelyapplications of blockchain will be comparing daily productivity of different textile units, may be located in different places by a single converted yarn count or fabric sort. It can also provide insight on short fall in production, digital provenance of apparel brands to prevent counterfeiting, display- ing of sustainable and ethical credentials, tracking of lifecycle of a textile product from raw material to design and sale, use and then resale and recycling. The Internet of Things (IoT) refers to numerous- machines (physical devices) around the world that are now connected to the Internet, all collecting and sharing data. An example of IoT application that is getting faster application in textile industry is theremote machine servicing platform that also includes electronic hardware, embedded sensors, production process monitoring system, predictive maintenancealgorithms,etc.Incaseofabreakdown, the machines can be serviced remotely, without needing the physical presence of an expert service engineer in the production site. If needed, even the corrupted machine programme can be replaced by uploading a fresh programmeremotelythrough the internet only. This will reduce the downtime of the machine and servicing cost, thereby improving the productivity of the unit. 42
  • 43. 43 TVC | Feb 2022 We can expect exciting developments to happen in the textile sector by adopting these new technolo- gies.No doubt, it is a long way for the Indian textile manufacturing units before they get transformed into smart factories. How Research and Development is a part of important process in the industry, industry adoption, investment of same. R&D should be an integral agenda of the innovation led textile industry. Since the industry is operating in the private sector, handsome private funding particularly for conducting applied and strategic research to meet the organisation’s specific short-termrequirements is to be ensured. For long-term researches, which are of basic in nature and require multidisciplinary expertise, the industry should sponsor the problem-solving to educational and research institute. While most of the units in the organisedtextile sector have their own in-house R&D setups, often recognised by the Department of Science and Technology (DST) and are doing what is necessary for their requirements, the same is not the case for the units in the decentralised sectors. Good researchdemands significant funding. It is suggested that a national level fund for textile education and research be created by levying a suitable cess on trade of textile materials, besides ensuring active industry participation in textile education and research. Such fund to be allocated to the institutes on competitive basis, judging the novelty, strength, and industry participation in the submitted proposal. This is vital for the growth of innovations in the sector that is structurally fragmented anddecentralised in nature. Educationist research hardly applied on commercial production of the industry, what is the reasons, setbacks and how we can integrate industry with educationist to get maximum productivity of research The statement is not fully true. Incremental research and the knowledge generated therein has reached the industry and are adopted by it. Unlike in the agricultural field, where the beneficial outputs of the research need to carried to the small and marginal farmers (i.e., the stakeholders) in a positive mode for obvious reason of their poor capability in accessing information of their own, the textile industry is fairly equipped with qualified personnel, who themselves gather the various technical developments around them and from the world. I have already given the example of the period of 1990s, when the spinning industry was pressured from the export market to improve yarn quality, various institutions provided the necessary research support. Today, the industry is producing the best quality of yarn. The annual Joint Technological Conference and other seminars do a good job of research disseminations from the research and educational institutes.However, the weak link between the educational/research institute and the textile industry is not a denying fact. Often, the average student quality and also, the research emanating from the institutes are not meetingtheexpectationsoftheindustry.Onebiggest lacuna is the absence of an exclusive university on textile sciences in the country, that can oversee the standard of education and research to maintain them not only to the desired quality, but also keep them comparable with the best in the world.It is to be borne in mind that today’s textile technol- ogy is highly diverse and complex, dealing with not only a few natural fibres, but a host of synthetic fibres of different origin, using varied yarn making systemsandwoven, nonwoven, knitting and braided fabric making machines,colouring and finishing processes, garmenting or otherwise, for both apparels and technical applications. Anotherlacuna isthe lack of information on how the Indian industry is technologically moving. Presently, we get some broad information on installed machinery capacity and production figures. But for a better insight on the technological strength of the industry, to format textile education and research and policy formula- tion, detailed technology wise information on installed capacity and production data are desired. Hopefully, the Office of the Textile Commissioner, Ministry of Textiles (MOT, GOI) is in the process of collecting such valuable statistics regularly, via their web based Online Return System. Since time immemorial, India is known for textiles, for its innovativeness, uniqueness, as well as diversi- ty. Now, we may be experiencing disadvantage in terms of cost of production and discomfort in export market. But these are not difficult to overcome. What is needed is a will to change and adapt and assimilate the technologies for the betterment of the textile industry.
  • 44. 44 TVC | Feb 2022 FROM PINS TO ROLLERS & MUCH MORE, BASANT FIBERTEK EXPANDS : KISHORE KHAITAN What are the various products your company manufactures, especially for the spinning segment? W e started with manufacturing Pins 58 years ago in 1964 and over the years expanded our product range to include a wide range of products for all types of Spinning proesses. We also manufacture some products for sectors other than Spinning and for non-textile applications too. For the Spinning sector, wemanufacture spiked lattices, pinned beaters for Blowroom, Chute feed opening rollers and Pinned Lickerins for cards. For Open-end Spinning, we set up a new advanced manufacturing facility, as our Unit II, to manufacture Rotors and Opening rollers for all makes of latest OE machines. Besides, we also manufacture Pinstrips for Worsted Spinning Gill Boxes used in woollen, acrylic and silk spinning. For Linen Spinning preparatory lines Hackle pins and pinstrips as well as nylon Gills. We are also a major supplier to the recycling industry of pinned lags used for converting textile waste into fibres. Most of the large well-known Spinning Mills in India are our clients. We supply to many OEMs too besides many Mills abroad. What are their USPs and special characteristics? How are they better in terms of quality than cheaper imports? We are pioneers in India, having started manufactur- ing steel pins for textile machinery way back in 1964. Since then, we have diversified our product line and updated our technology with the best know-how from world’s leading companies in Germany and USA. Our USP is world class innovative products, application engineering and custom solutions to problems faced by Mills and the best value for money in terms of payback on investment. Another Basant Fibertek Pvt Ltd manufactures textile pins and a wide range of products for the spinning sector and other segments. Located in Rajasthan, the company has made rapid strides in the production of these products supported by high-tech technologies and machinery. The company has never rested on its laurels.Its Unit-II now is manufacturing rotors and opening rollers. Mr. Kishore Khaitan, Managing Director of the company is a well-known personality among the textile industry circle. He replied in details to a Questionnaire sent by the Textile Value Chain. Excerpts: INTERVIEW
  • 45. 45 TVC | Feb 2022 USP is our ability to innovate new and customised solutions to meet specific requirements of our clients, given our deep understanding about fibres and spinning and we producing our own pins. We have successfully been pioneers in developing many import substitute products indigenously, the lastest being Magnetic Rotors for fully automatic Rotor Spinning machines. We also hold internation- al patents and registered designs for some of our products. If in exports, where are your markets abroad? Let us know about new markets that you have opened up recently? We export 50% of our production to more than 40 countries in all five continents including Asia, Europe, America, Africa and Australia. Recently we have entered the CIS countries and plan to enlarge our presence in South America too. Please do let us know about the technolo- gies and machinery being utilised for the production? We use CNC machines and high level of automation in all our processes. We use more than 25 different technologies for manufacture of our products including wire working and heat treatment, surface finishing, injection moulding, CNC machining, ultrasonic equipment, dynamic balancing and electroplating, among others. In all our processes, we extensively use best manufacturing practices such as TPM. Lean manufacturing, Six Sigma, SQC and many others. What are your plans for the next phase of expansion and diversification? We recently completed a major expansion in 2021 to double our capacity for Pinned Rollers and lags as well as for OE components. Next expansion is planned in 2023. We are also aggressively investing in Sustainability. Our Unit II is a green building. We are installing rooftop solar to cover a major part of our power consumption, making efforts to reduce water consumption, increasing use of recyclable materials in packaging and taking several other ESG initiatives. We are also doing our bit in promoting recycling in the textile industry by providing highly cost-effective solutions, using pins in recycling machines, to regenerate fibres of high quality at a low cost. We have been able to raise production and quality while reducing cost for many of our recycling clients. We have plans for offering comprehensive support services to Spinning Mills and will share the details when the time comes. How has your company managed the Covid times? We have grown our turnover by more than 110% over the pre-covid FY 2019-20. This has been possible only due to the trust and relationship we enjoy with our domestic and foreign clients. Our production suffered only for one month in each of the years 2020 and 2021 but due to the dedication and hard work of our employees, we were able to spring back strongly. We also used the Covid time to focus on innovation, cost reduction and adding new products and services to our range so that we can add more value to our clients and improve profitability. What is your wish-list for the industry and also the Government to promote textile spares and accessories? The Indian Government is not doing enough specially to encourage MSMEs in the make In India initiative. While the government did something for financial support during Covid, taxation is high, incentives for expansion as well as depreciation rates are very low, export incentives have reduced and the ecosystem for R&D and innovation is also insufficient. It will hugely help promote manufac- ture of textile machinery and parts in India if the government launches a TUF-like scheme for Textile Engineering Industry (TEI) also. However, that said, I strongly believe that the companies engaged in the Indian TEI should think big and aspire to become global players in their line of product or service and adopt global standards of manufacturing, design and service in their operations. The other thing they should focus on is to understand the user needs more deeply and provide superior solutions to enable the mills improve their quality, productivity and cost competitiveness. Though the journey will be tough and challenging, it is certainly achievable and worthwhile. Indian Textile Industry can aspire to global leadership only if the backbone of TEI is strong to support that goal!
  • 46. 39 TVC | Jan 2022 V I S I O N D i v e r s e p r o d u c t k n o w l e d g e T e c h n i c a l l y q u a l i f i e d & c o m p e t e n t t e a m t o s e r v i c e t h e c u s t o m e r n e e d s O r g a n i z a t i o n a l s t r e n g t h & b a c k - u p t o e x e c u t e l a r g e i n s t i t u t i o n a l o r d e r s P r o d u c t d e v e l o p m e n t & S a m p l i n g a r e u n d e r t a k e n c o m m e r c i a l l y +91 230 243 8538 office@kenindia.in Q U A L I T Y P O L I C Y U n d e r s t a n d i n g o f C u s t o m e r n e e d s & a b i l i t y t o s e r v i c e i n s t i t u t i o n a l c u s t o m e r s t o a p p a r e l s F a b r i c D e s i g n & D e v e l o p m e n t c a p a b i l i t y D i v e r s e m a n u f a c t u r i n g c a p a b i l i t y A b i l i t y t o d e l i v e r & c o m m i t m e n t t o e x c e l l e n c e To be the supplier of first choice for our customers working in close association with them offering complete Fabric & Apparels related solutions from design to delivery. KEN endeavors to create value for its customers by setting benchmarks in cost competitiveness, quality parameters and turnaround time. This is to be achieved by a continuous process of product innovation, enhancement of personnel skills and optimum utilization of technology. W H Y K E N . . . O r g a n i z a t i o n w i t h 8 0 0 M e m b e r s T e a m 9/621, Industrial Estate, Ichalkaranji- 416115, Maharashtra, INDIA. CORPORATE OFFICE
  • 47. 47 TVC | Feb 2022 SANGAM INDIA’S EXPORTS SOAR 114%, PLAN BIG EXPANSION: S.N. MODANI T he company’s major expansion kick-started in 2014, as the group saw an increase in Denim capacity to 35 million meters p.a. Installation of state-of-the-art Seamless Garment Machines with a capacity of 3.6 lakhs pieces p.a. The next big step was venturing into the B2C market space with the launch of C9 Airwear, a casual wear & active wear apparel brand for women in 2015. C9 Airwear is available across 1000 multi brand outlets in India and all major digital retail portals. Dr. S N Modani, CEO & Managing Director, Sangam India Ltd replied to a Questionnaire sent by the Textile Value Chain. Excerpts: How has the Sangam Group managed the Covid times for nearly two years? Covid-19 had a profound effect on the textile sector of India, forcing garment factories to shut down or work at half capacity to stem new cases. We saw a historic drop in local sales and exports at an industry level, which continued for the better half of 2021 as well. Sangam India took this opportunity to rework our strategy by improving internal efficiencies and focusing on the opportunities in the global market. We invested our time in refining our systems and processes to ensure our business readiness once the markets open. Now, with the vaccination drive in full swing and the markets bouncing back to pre-covid levels, Established in 1984, Sangam India Ltd is one of the leading manufacturers in PV dyed yarn, cotton and OE yarn and also ready to stitch fabric. The company produces 35 million meters of PV fabric and 48 million meters of denim fabric annually. The Group has also introduced a seamless garment manufactur- ing facility with 52 seamless knitting machines. Sangam started with only eight weaving machines in 1984 and is now being recognised as a leading brand in the textile industry, with presence in over 50 countries. INTERVIEW