MMF Fibers Fueling Athleisure & Comfort Trend

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CONTENTS
ADVERTISER INDEX
COVER STORY
A U G U S T 2 0 2 1
Back Page: Raymond
Back Inside: Raysil
Front Inside: Rimtex
Page 3: Mag Solvics PVT. LTD.
Page 4: Intex South Asia
Page 5: Savio
Page 6: Nonwoven Tech Asia 2021
Page 62: TVC Digital Media
Page 65: FVC Forecasting Webinar
Page 66: Meera Industries
Page 67: Unitech
Page 68: Techtextil India
Page 69: Colorjet
POST EVENT REPORT
MMF REPORT
CARBON FOOTPRINT
MARKET REPORT
HOME TEXTILE REPORT
TEXTILE MACHINERY REPORT
SPINNING UPDATE
REVIEW PAPER
7
COMPANY UPDATE
09 Spandex, Nylon and Acrylic - Most Essential
materials for Athleisure- Mr. Amrish Shahi
11 Synthetic Textile: A Man-Made Comfort Ex-
perience- Ms. Kshipra Gadey
13 Processing Of Polyester Fabrics In Industries-
Dr. N. N. Mahapatra
17 Mobilon Monofilament Japanese Spandex
19 Uncertain Future, No new Investmen - Mr.
Anubhav Tewari
27 Carbon Footprint in Textile Industry -
Mr.Krishna Kant Arya
RECYCLING
31 Recycling of old clothes for Godhadi Mak-
ing - Prof. Medha Umrikar, Dr. Irfana Siddiqui
43 Blended Yarn Export Jumps In July- Textile Bea-
con
45MMF- Trade Statistics
46 H1 - 2021 : Significant Hike IN INDIA’S Textile
Exports
25 Automation In Textile Spinning- Mr. Tanveer
Malik, Mr. Ajay Shankar Joshi, Mr. T. K. Sinha
INTERVIEW
20
Kusumgar Corporates In Growth Evading Pan-
demic Challenges- Mr. Siddharth Kusumgar &
Dr. M.K. Talukdar
22 Technological Developments In Sports Tex-
tiles- DR. J. Anandhakumar
CLOUD COMPUTING
34 Cloud Computing: New Technology in Tex-
tile and Apparel Industry- MS. Somasree Roy
FACE MASK
36 A Survey on Face Masks- Ms. Aranya Mallick,
Ms. Ashlesha M. Soman
FIBER PRICE REPORT
42 Fibre Prices Seen Easing In Asia During Au-
gust- Textile Beacon
YARN REPORT
44Yarn Bazaar
48 Subsequent Rise In The Home Textile Exports
50 Growth in Indian Textile Machinery Exports
53MAGnificient 30 Years Journey....1991 to 2021
58Meera Industries Limited (Mil)
54Divyang Education & Welfare Society
55Indo – Us Bilateral Partnership
63Malegaon Cluster
NEWS
59
59
52By HEWA
Production Linked Incentive (PLI) Scheme
for Textiles
Italian Textile Machinery (ACIMIT)
Bangladesh Exports
60
Kornit Digital
61
EXPORT UPDATE

JIGNA SHAH
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8
A U G U S T 2 0 2 1
The world is moving toward Work from Home
(WFM) culture, thanks to Covid 19… WFM gave
people the liberty to dress for work in their own
way. WFM also leads to increase awareness of
Fitness and health. This resulted in the growth of
athletic and leisurewear, Sportswear, Nightwear
/ Sleepwear, Home textile, Medical Textile indus-
try. MMF Fibres which is used for stretch quality,
water resister, performance wear has increased
consumption due to the rise in the application in-
dustry.
Production Linked Incentive ( PLI) scheme focus
on MMF fabrics/garments and Technical textile
will again increase consumption for synthetic
fibers. PLI is a production-based incentive that
will enhance domestic production and reduce de-
pendency on imports. MMF fibers consumption
is on rising and growth path due to natural re-
sources is diminishes and Man-Made is made by
“ Human” which can take control of production.
Man-Made Fabrics application is huge as it can
be made versatile and applied in various indus-
tries like apparel, home, intimate wear, techni-
cal textiles various segments. Technical Textile
is the niche segment for India in consumption
as compared to other advanced countries, where
technical textile is part of their culture. Synthetic
or Natural fibers both have their own stand in
the industry, both give comfort and style in differ-
ent ways, application of each fiber matters which
makes a whole different world.
We wish the industry to take benefit of PLI
scheme, make the country self-reliant, boost the
employment of the industry. Wish you a produc-
tive year ahead…!
E D I T O R I A L
MMF, Covid
and
Textiles
CONTENT WRITER
RESEARCH ANALYST
Ms. Manali Bhanushali
Ms. Kshipra Gadey
Mrs. Radhika Boddu

Fabrics.
We can see Athleasuire
which is trending has the
best of all the world looks.
Things are borrowed from
Activewear, Streetwear,
Workwear, and Gymwear.
As per the Boston Consult-
ing Group and RAI joint
study on the resurgence
of Retail in India, it found
that Indian consumers are
responding to Athleisure
very well. A major reason is
working from culture, atten-
tion to health, and dressing for comfort.
In another report by WGSN, Social media tracker #COM-
FORT, whereas there is a decline in the total consumption,
we see is a significant rise in the requirement of comfort
and loungewear clothing. As per the report, items need
to be multi-functional. We need more out of our clothes.
It seems that the current scenario of work from home is
likely to continue for a long time now. We would be getting
dressed up in easy-care tops and joggers. Would be going
out in 2mile style to grab a cup of coffee with friends or
working out just before the 4 pm meeting. All these are
possible and happening because of some innovations that
happened in the fibers and finishes.
Most of the natural fibers are not easy-care, relatively
poor in moisture management, and restrict movement.
Here innovative synthetic materials like Nylon, Spandex,
and Acrylic can play a great role. OnceOnce adds a lot
of value. We can also blend
natural and synthetic fib-
ers to get the best of both
worlds.
Let’s have a look at attrib-
utes of these manmade fab-
rics which are contributing
to make them the choice of
material for Athleisure and
2milewear.
Nylon
Nylon ( also known as Poly-
amides) has some unique
properties. It’s coming out
as the outcome of research for an alternative to silk.
Apart from its durability and easy-care properties, it’s
famous for its soft hand feel ( remember its silk alterna-
tive). Soon after its commercial launch in 1940 Nylon got
instant fame. During that time the Nylon stockings were
sold twice the price of Silk stockings.
Its properties like soft hand feel, high resistance to sun-
light, high melting point. Also, its easy care, abrasion re-
sistance, and High resistance to mildew, ETC., rot makes
it the idealistic choice for Athleisure.
It can blend with cotton, viscose, modal, wool, or any oth-
er fiber to add value to the fabric. It has its elasticity but
with spandex, you can move it like anything.
Nylon and Nylon blends can be seen in tops, sweatshirts,
shorts, track pants, and leggings.
You can follow in these fashion styles from the Athleisure
collection on yellowbacks.com
9
C O V E R S T O R Y
SPANDEX, NYLON AND ACRYLIC -
MOST ESSENTIAL MATERIALS FOR ATHLEISURE
Chief of Styling & Design
YellowBacks.com
MR. AMRISH SHAHI
A U G U S T 2 0 2 1
Trending Looks of Athleisure and 2milewear Are Possible Only
Because of Special Performance
Photo Courtesy - pexels-ivan-samkov-7900283

10 C O V E R S T O R Y
Spandex
Spandex is known by its brand name Lycra by DuPont,
again a result of a decade of research for replacing a natu-
ral material, Rubber. It’s used initially for the undergar-
ments which are still there, but the association with ac-
tivewear started in the 1968 winter Olympics. French ski
team wore garments made out of Lycra. This became the
benchmark of how performance sportswear looks fashion-
able as well.
It adds to the performance of the garments when it needs
flexibility, without compromising on the fit. It will sup-
port and ease of movement while you are just working or
exercising, from home.
It’s lightweight and can be easily woven or knitted with
other yarns. The only drawback is that its reaction to
high heat, where its stretchability decreases.
Acrylic
Chemically known by the name of Polyacrylonitrile,
Acrylic fabric was the response to another expensive nat-
ural material - wool.
It’s quite lightweight and can take all kinds of dyes, in-
cluding neons. Its soft and fuzzy surface can easily mimic
cashmere. Again like most, synthetic fibers Acrylic is also
resistant to bacteria, mold, and fungi. Makes it an idealis-
tic functional fabric. It blends with most of the man-made
and natural filers to give you a hybrid. The best use of
acrylic is making lightweight sweaters and winter wear.
Environmental impact
Being synthetics these materials are not biodegradable
easily, so the impact of single-use application burden, the
ecosystem. Microplastics are shed every time we wash
synthetic garments. Microfibers and Microplastic can get
into our waterways and impact the whole food chain. As
per Wikipedia Microfibers account for 85% of man-made
debris found on shorelines worldwide.
In the case of Spandex, once worn out it is tough to recy-
cle. It’s not easy to separate the spandex from the yarns
and hence difficult to recycle.
Other Drawbacks
There are some problems associated with these fabrics.
The problem of pilling is quite common, the hydrophilic
nature of Nylon makes it change its properties when ex-
posed to sweat. Some people have also been reported to
have skin problems with synthetics.
But these problem outweighs the benefit of cost and val-
ue. With cautious use of these materials and finding new
ways of recycling, I think these innovations can be a ben-
efit for the fashion value chain.
WGSN SOCIAL MEDIA TRACKER ON #COMFORT
A U G U S T 2 0 2 1

11
C O V E R S T O R Y
SYNTHETIC TEXTILE:
A MAN-MADE COMFORT EXPERIENCE
Man-made fibres (MMF) are classified
into two types: synthetic and cellulosic.
Synthetic fibres are made from crude
oil, whereas cellulosic fibres are made
from wood pulp. Polyester, acrylic, and
polypropylene are the three most com-
mon synthetic staple fibres. Cellulosic
fibre is viscose fibre, modal fibre, and so
on. Textiles made from these synthetic
and cellulosic fibres are referred to as
man-made fibre textiles. Manmade fab-
rics have grown in popularity over the
years due to their ease of maintenance,
comfort, low manufacturing cost, versa-
tility, and other benefits.
With changes in global fashion trends,
demand for man-made fibre (MMF) tex-
tiles is expanding all over the world as a
competitor for cotton. Currently, MMF
leads global textile fibre consumption
with a 72:28 ratio, which means that
MMF accounts for 72 percent of total
textile fibre consumption, while natu-
ral fibre accounts for the remaining 28
percent. Because of the inherent limita-
tions of cotton and other natural fibre
growth, the share of MMF has continu-
ously increased.
According to the Textiles Intelligence
Report on Forecasts of Regional and
Global End-Use, demand for man-made
fibres is expected to rise 3.4 percent in
2017, while demand for cotton is expect-
ed to rise only 0.5 percent. As a result of
these trends, the share of man-made fi-
bres in global end-use demand will rise
from 72.5 percent to 73.0 percent, while
cotton’s share will fall to 25.7 percent,
with most of the overall growth occur-
ring in developing countries, with most
of this growth occurring in Asia.
The advantage of engineered fibres
is that properties can be added while
undesired ones can be removed. Syn-
thetic fabrics can have unique proper-
ties, such as great absorbency or the
capacity to hold pleats. Nylon, polyes-
ter, acrylic, and polyurethane are the
most frequent synthetic fibres found in
twentieth-century collections.
Because of their varying look and con-
tent, synthetic materials can be hard
to recognize. The simplest approach
to start is to look for a manufacturer’s
label on the inside of the garment. For
further identification, conservators use
microscopic examination, burn tests,
and feel tests.
Synthetic fibres are more durable than
natural fibres and can easily absorb
multiple hues. Furthermore, many syn-
thetic fibres have user-friendly proper-
ties such as flexibility, waterproofing,
and stain resistance. All fibres break
down and wear away because of sun-
light, moisture, and oils from human
skin. Natural fibres are substantially
more delicate than synthetic mixtures.
This is primarily since natural products
are biodegradable. Natural fibres are
vulnerable to larval insect infestation,
whereas synthetic fibres do not provide
a suitable food source for fabric-damag-
ing insects.
Many synthetic fibres are more wa-
ter-resistant and stain-resistant than
natural fibres. Some are even careful-
ly treated to withstand water or stain
damage.
SOME MANMADE ECOFRIENDLY FIB-
ERS
TENCEL™ LYOCELL
TENCEL™ Lyocell fabric is very soft
and ideal for people with sensitive skin.
It is a cellulosic fibre that has been syn-
thesized from wood cultivated in sus-
tainable plantations (often eucalyptus).
Because no harmful chemicals are em-
ployed in the production of lyocell fibre,
the process is environmentally safe on
all levels. In a closed loop process, the
solvent (NMMO) and water needed for
its processing are recycled up to 99 per-
cent of the time.
TENCELTM is a registered trademark
of Lenzing AG.
In the United States, there is a Lenz-
ing lyocell facility. As a result, it can be
made locally. Furthermore, TENCEL™
Lyocell with REFIBRATM technology
allows for the use of recycled cotton
scraps (up to 30% by 2020), which is
very cool.
There are also plenty of novel fibres
on the market created from wood from
certified sustainable plantations, agri-
cultural waste, or post-consumer cotton
clothing. These are excellent but, like
TENCELTM Lyocell, are now unavail-
able on the market.
Benefits of TENCEL™ Lyocell:
• Eucalyptus grows on arid land, on
which it’s impossible to plant other
crops.
• Requires no irrigation water.
MS. KSHIPRA GADEY
Textile Value Chain
A U G U S T 2 0 2 1

• Grows without the need for insecti-
cides or pesticides.
• Lyocell is inherently eco-friendly.
• Easy to dye and wash.
• Comfortable and soft.
• Excellent moisture management.
• Biodegradable
• Wood comes from certified responsi-
bly managed forest.
• There is a plant in Axis, AL, USA.
Can be locally transformed.
BAMBOO VISCOSE
One of the most prevalent materials
used in clothes is viscose. In fact, you
are most likely wearing some right
now! It has the potential to be a more
sustainable alternative to
cotton and polyester be-
cause it is created from
trees and plants (such as
bamboo) and can be biode-
gradable. The technology
to produce cleaner viscose
already exists.
Viscose can be manufactured in a
‘closed-loop system’ where the toxic
chemicals are captured and reused in-
stead of being released into the envi-
ronment. Bamboo is the world’s fastest
growing plant. Its growing does not ne-
cessitate the use of chemical fertilizers
or pesticides. Growing bamboo is now
well established as a sustainable prac-
tice.
The viscose transformation process, on
the other hand, necessitates the em-
ployment of toxic chemicals to convert
bamboo wood pulp into viscose from
bamboo (or bamboo rayon). Viscose =
rayon (they are interchangeable). This
method can be utilized responsibly and
has a lot of promise.
Benefits of Bamboo Viscose:
• Absorb 35% more CO2 than any other
forest.
• Grows without pesticide or insecti-
cide.
• Good yield of fibre per acre.
• Viscose clothes are easy to dye &
wash (wrinkle free).
• Viscose fabrics are comfortable and
soft.
• Requires no irrigation water.
• Biodegradable.
RECYCLED POLYESTER
The production of polyester fibre from
recycled bottles is essentially a re-chan-
neling of the chemical “polyethylene
terephthalate,” which is also a chemi-
cal constituent in PET bottles. Poly-
ester and PET bottles are both mostly
composed of the chemical “polyethylene
terephthalate.” Polyester fabrics made
from recycled PET bottles have been
shown to be more cost effective, as there
is less heating, and energy required in
the production of the polymer element.
Waste PET was depolymerized using
glycolysis, and the resulting product
was employed in the manufacture of
the most recent polyester polyglot. This
was employed for coating
applications because of its
superior mechanical quali-
ties like as flexibility, im-
pact resistance, scratch and
hardness, and chemical re-
sistance.
Environmental Benefits
• By making use of plas-
tic waste instead of using
virgin materials, recycled
polyester dramatically lowers its en-
vironmental impact versus traditional
polyester. Some benefits of recycled
polyester:
• Reduces reliance on virgin petroleum
as a raw material
• Diverts used plastic from landfills.
• Prevents used plastic from ending up
in oceans and harming marine life.
• Decreases greenhouse gas emissions
from creating and processing virgin
polyester can be continuously recycled
again and again without quality degra-
dation.
CONCLUSION
The necessity for sustainability is es-
sential. The need for sustainable and
eco-friendly fibres is increasing.
Manmade fibres have tradition-
ally been seen to be bad for the
environment. It is feasible to
create sustainable synthetic
fibres with desired qualities
and various applications us-
ing emerging technology. More
study must be done in this
area. Smart textiles and technical tex-
tiles can be made with synthetic fibres.
More may be said in this sector; we
simply need to focus on the bright side
of these fibres.
REFERENCE:
1. Indian Manmade fibre textile indus-
try_0.pdf (texmin.nic.in)
2. Manmade Synthetic Fibres - Textile
School
3. Synthetic fiber - Wikipedia
4. The Best Eco-Friendly Fibres – Re-
specTerre
5. Dirty Fashion - Journey
Image Source:
1.https://tscudo.com.au/blogs/news/
what-is-recycled-polyester
2. https://www.tencel.com/about
3.https://www.dharmatrading.com/
fabric/Bamboo-Rayon-Fabric-60.
html?lnav=fabric.html
A U G U S T 2 0 2 1

13
PROCESSING OF POLYESTER
FABRICS IN INDUSTRIES
Business Head (Dyes)
SHREE PUSHKAR CHEMICALS & FERTILISERS LTD., MUMBAI
Dr. N. N. MAHAPATRA
C O V E R S T O R Y
Initially, the organized textile industry
was not allowed to weave filament warp
yarns. This privilege was reserved for
weaving units in the decentralized
sector – power looms and handlooms.
Gradually the Textile Policy in June
1985 was changed, and it was open to
the organized textile sector. At that
time, they had to face stiff competition
with the power looms. It was very dif-
ficult to weave filament warp yarns on
the overpick looms. Then the automatic
looms were preferred for weaving fila-
ment warp yarns. At that time in India,
only the twisted filament yarns were
being woven. Later, the mills started
weaving zero-twist or low twist fila-
ment yarns. Mills in Ahmedabad, Su-
rat, Bhiwandi, and Bhilwara started
making polyester sarees, suiting, shirt-
ing, and dress materials.
Polyester fabrics are made using the
following yarns
1. Filament yarns.
2. Textured yarns.
3. Spun yarns.
Filament yarns are made in monofila-
ment and multifilament forms. The
direction and amount of twist are de-
termined by the desired end-use. the
commonly used filament yarns have
a. Zero Twist.
b. Low Twist up to 200 TPM.
c. Medium Twist up to
800 TPM.
d. High Twist up to 1500 TPM.
e. Extra High Twist up to
3000 TPM.
Textured Yarns are produced of poly-
ester multifilament. they are given a
texturizing either in conjunction with
the drawing process or subsequently
as part of the throwing and texturizing
process in producing the finished yarns.
The most textured yarn used is
a. zero twists.
b. Low Twist up to 200 TPM.
c. Medium Twist up to 800 TPM.
Spun yarns are made of polyester sta-
ple fibers. It may be bright, semi-dull,
or dull. It may be regular, medium, or
high tenacity. The count varies from
2/20 s to 2/50 s Depending on the end-
use yarns are used to make the desired
fabric.
Besides the above three yarns another
yarn is also used in making polyester
fabrics are called Tangled yarns which
are Aero set or Rotoset.
Except for spun yarns all the other
yarns are made from basic flat yarns.
Compared to all spun yarns, generally
the filament yarns are stronger. The fil-
ament yarns are designated as denier /
number of constituent filaments/twist.
The figure 80/36/600 filament would in-
dicate 80 deniers with 36 filaments and
600 twist per meter. Generally, a fila-
ment yarn with a greater number of fil-
aments will produce a fuller fabric than
another filament yarn of equal denier
but with a smaller number of filaments.
The zero twist filament yarns produce
better cover than the twisted filament
yarns. The textured yarns produce full-
er fabric compared to flat yarns.
The Surat Man-Made Textile Industry
is the largest concentration of looms in
the world weaving man-made filament
fabrics. Growth of processing activity in
Surat occurred out of necessity. during
1970-80, Surat city witnessed the set-
ting up of two giant co-operative mar-
ket
1. Surat textile market.
2. Bombay market.
These attracted attention of traders
from all over India. Man-made textiles
especially nylon and polyester sarees
from Surat, became famous in all cor-
ners of the country. It is well known
that each of the 150 process houses in
Surat have a capacity to dye/print from
15,000 meters to 50,000 meters a day.
The involvement of traders in process-
ing activity has beyond doubt contrib-
uted significantly to the growth of pro-
cess houses.
Properties of polyester fabrics -
Fabrics made of regular tenacity poly-
ester filament yarns are very strong
and durable. They do not have a high
degree of elasticity which means it is
characterized as having a high degree
of stretch resistance, which means pol-
yester fabrics are not likely to stretch
out of shape too easily. This property
makes polyester suited for knitted gar-
ments, sagging and stretching that
would ordinarily occur are reduced.
Polyester fabrics have good dimension-
al stability. It has got a high degree of
resilience. Not only does a polyester fab-
ric resist wrinkling when dry, it also re-
sists wrinkling when wet. For example,
a suit of polyester will keep its pressed
appearance after many wearing, even
after exposure to rain or moist, humid
A U G U S T 2 0 2 1

weather. Fabrics of polyester filament
yarn have satisfactory draping quali-
ties. The trilobal filament type is more
supple and imparts better drapability.
spun yarns are also more flexible and
softer, thereby imparting the draping
quality.
Polyester fabrics are better conductors
of heat than acrylic fabrics. Polyester
fabrics have low absorbency as a result
it will dry very rapidly since almost
all the moisture will lie on the surface
rather than penetrate the yarns. So pol-
yester fabrics are well suited for water
–repellent purposes, such as rain wear.
This low absorbency means that poly-
ester fabrics will not stain easily except
oil which has got affinity for polyester,
and it is difficult to remove.
The main disadvantage due to low
absorbency is polyester fabrics are
clammy and uncomfortable in humid
weather because they will not absorb
perspiration or atmospheric moisture.
There is essentially no water shrinkage
of polyester fabrics; therefore, shirts,
blouses and even slacks may be safely
laundered. When ironing polyester
fabrics, it is best to use low to medium
heat. excessive heat will cause polyes-
ter to melt. The wrinkle resistance of
polyester is extremely good. Polyester
fabrics made from spun polyester yarns
tend to pill. Polyester fabrics shrink
as much as 20 % during wet – finish-
ing operations and they are generally
heat –set in later treatments. Polyester
fabrics are better suited for outdoor use
because it has good resistance to degra-
dation by sunlight. They are resistant
to mildew.
Pretreatment of polyester fabrics - Fol-
lowing are the steps for pretreatment of
100% polyester fabrics.
1. Drumming – It is carried out in Ro-
tary Drum
HTHP machine. It opens the yarn twist
thereby giving grainy effect to the fab-
ric. The MLR is 1:4 – 1: 6. Kleenox TEP
(Rossari Chemicals, Mumbai) is used
0.3 to 0.5 % o.w.f. The pressure is 2-3
kgs/cm2. Holding time is 45-90 mins.
2. Desizing - It is meant for regular and
water jet loom sizes i.e PVA and
Na –salts of Acrylate
co-polymers. HTHP Jet dyeing machine
is used. MLR is 1:4 in U- tube and
1:8 in long tube.
Add Kleenox BAS (Rossari chemicals,
Mumbai) - 1-2 gms/lit. Adjust pH 5.5
-6.0 with acetic acid. Run for 20 mins
at room temp. Add Soda ash 2-4 gms/
lit (pH 10- 10.5). Raise temperature to
100 deg c by 1 deg c /min gradient. Hold
for 45-60 mins. Hot drain. Hot wash at
95 deg c
with 0.5 gms/lit Kleenox BAS for 10
mins. Cold wash.
In some units they are doing single
bath desizing and drumming in the
Rotary Drum HTHP m/c. It saves time
and energy to avoid separate desizing
process in different machine e.g., Jet or
Jigger.
3. Scouring -
It is required for high twist 100 %
polyester qualities. It is carried out
as Single bath Scouring & Weight Re-
duction in HTHP Jet Dyeing machine.
The MLR is 1:3 – 1:4 in U –tube. Load
the material and give cold wash. Then
add Greenscour CPM (Rossari, Mum-
bai) – 2-3 gms/lit Kleenox BASM (Ros-
sari, Mumbai) – 2-3 gms/lit. Zylube CM
(Rossari, Mumbai) (if reqd) – 1.5 gms/
lit. Run for 15 mins at room temp. Add
Caustic soda flakes as per weight re-
duction required. Raise temp to 120-
130 deg c. hold for 30-60 mins. Hot
drain. Hot wash at 95 deg c for 15 mins
with addition of Oligo EM (Rossari,
Mumbai) -1 gm/lit. Then neutralization
with Oxalic acid – 4 gms/lit. Kleerix N
(Rossari, Mumbai) - 1 gm/lit. At 90 deg
c for 20 mins.
The basic finishing processes for 100%
polyester filament yarn fabrics may
be arranged in the following three se-
quences.
a. Scour –Heatset – Dye
b. Heat set –Scour--- Dye.
c. Scour—Dye—Heat set.
Dyeing of polyester fabrics -
There are basically two types of polyes-
ter fabrics
1. Polyester knitted fabrics.
2. Polyester woven fabrics.
Polyester knitted fabrics are used on a
large scale for outer wear of all types.
The main reasons for their success are
the wide patterning potential, the good
durability and crease resistance, and
the excellent easy-care properties. Pol-
yester knitted fabrics are composed al-
most exclusively of texturized yarn. To
avoid creases and breakages, knitted
fabric that have not been set should al-
ways be stored or treated in full width.
The process sequence for circular
knitted fabrics dyeing is as below.
Slitting –-- pre-stabilization ---- Full-
width washing ------Hydroextraction
-----Drying ---Heat-setting ---- Dyeing
----- Hydroextraction------Finishing------
Drying----Steaming.
Following are the precautions taken for
the above process.
1. Circular knitted fabrics should be
slit as soon as possible after knitting
(within 24 hours). If they cannot be fur-
ther processed immediately, they must
be rolled flat, completely free from
creases. If the goods are stored in tu-
bular form for some time, the folds will
become fixed.
2. Prestabilizing is necessary if the fab-
ric is liable to become creased during
precleaning or if the selvedges tend to
curl. This is done by running the fabric
in a tensionless state through a steam-
ing chamber ((saturated steam ,100deg
c.); the fabric relaxes, and fibres begin
to crimp.
3. Prior to dyeing, all spin finish, knit-
ting machine oil and other impurities
must be removed. At the same time
washing develops the crimp which is
lost in knitting.
4. Scouring is carried in continuous full
width washing ranges using Soda Ash
and good detergent. There should be
provision of a “sojourn” zone, in which
the fabric is able to relax completely
without longitudinal tension. The
shrinkage is often over 20 %.
5. After washing, rinsing, hydroextrac-
tion uniform drying is essential because
variations in the residual moisture con-
tent are liable to cause uneven fixation,
resulting in unlevelness in dyeing.
6. Heat setting is done in stenter at 150-
A U G U S T 2 0 2 1

15
C O V E R S T O R Y
180 deg c for 20-30 seconds. The higher
the setting temperature, the better the
dimensional stability of the treated
fabrics., but the handle becomes flatter
and harsher if the setting temperature
is too high.
7. Texturized polyester knitted fabrics
are normally dyed at 130 deg c in high
temperature winch –beck. it gives a
full, bulky handle to the goods using
medium to high sublimation fastness
disperse dyes. It can also be dyed in Jet
dyeing machines using defoamer, an-
ticrease agent etc.
The process sequence for dyeing of
polyester woven fabrics is as below ;
Full width washing ----drying ---heat
setting ----dyeing ----hydroextraction---
-finishing--------drying ----steaming.
Polyester fabrics can be dyed in the fol-
lowing machines.
a. High Temperature winch becks -
It is suitable to dye texturized polyester
knitted fabrics. It imparts a full, bulky
handle to the fabrics. Care must be tak-
en to avoid running and other creases.
The probable causes for creasing are
a. poor suitability of dyeing machine.
b. too heavy batch of fabric.
c. incorrect loading of machine.
d. dyeing
process (heating, cooling). The remedi-
al measures are adjusted temperature
programme and add a suitable lubri-
cant.
b. Jet Dyeing machines – It is suitable
for dyeing of polyester knitted fabrics
and woven fabrics.
Following are the advantages of the
above Exhaust dyeing process
a. no tailing problems.
b. better reproducibility.
c. less fastness problems.
d. good penetration.
Care must be taken to avoid Rope
marks in jet dyeing machines which
may be due to the following reasons
1. improper heat setting.
2. too low a fabric speed.
The remedial measures are
a. ensures proper heat setting.
b. at least 1 revolution per min.
c. use suitable lubricants.
c. Beam dyeing machines - It is suit-
able for dyeing smooth knitted fabric
and woven fabrics.
Following are the advantages of beam
dyeing over winch beck dyeing
1. short liquor ratio, and consequently
low costs for energy, water, and dye.
2. time saved in loading and unloading
the dyeing machine.
3. no trouble with running of the goods.
4. less danger of unlevelness caused by
variations in temperature in the dye-
bath.
The disadvantage of this method is
however, that bulky qualities may be
flattened, so that the handle and ap-
pearance suffer. Besides this problem
barriness is observed, which is unlevel
ness in dyeing material. By using suit-
able chemicals, it can be overcome.
d. Pad-Thermosol Process /Continu-
ous Dyeing – It is suitable for polyester
narrow fabrics. Following is the process
sequence to be followed.
1. padding – pick up -50 -65 %
2. drying – 1 min at 130 deg c.
3. fixing with hot air – 170 deg c to 195
deg c, 1-6 mins.
4. cold wash
5. reduction clearing - 70 deg c to 80 deg
c, 1-4 mins.
6. cold wash
Following are the advantages of the
above process.
• no spirality problem.
• Flexibility of production.
• better workflow.
• More economical.
There is listing problem encountered in
Continuous Dyeing. which may be due
to one-sided liquor feed into the trough.
Or different nip roller pressure or un-
level migration in intermediate drying
or uneven thermosoling or fixation of
dyes due to temperature differences.
It can be overcome by strict quality
checks in process, machine settings etc.
Finishing of polyester fabrics
Several finishes can be given to polyes-
ter fabrics to increase their usefulness.
Some of the important ones are as be-
low.
1. Antistatic
2. Finish – for reduction of electrostatic
build –up.
3. Calendaring – for smoothness and
reduced pilling.
4. Compressive shrinkage - for in-
creased shrink resistance.
5. Embossing – for design and luster.
6. Heat setting and stabilizing – for
permanent shape retention, wrinkle re-
sistance, and improved hand.
7. Shearing – for smooth, even pile or
nap.
8. Singeing – for improved hand and re-
duced pilling.
9. Water and Soil repellency – for com-
fort and ease of care.
Rossari chemicals, Mumbai has come
out with special finishes which are used
in the Surat market for 100 % polyester
fabrics.
a. Zylan MAT - Mat Finish
- Dose 10 -15 gms/lit. It is suitable for
bright filament –yarn qualities. It gives
good bouncy effect. It gives Matt look
with cotton feel.
b. Drybounce CST –Dose 10-15 gms/
lit. It is suitable for both bright and
georgette qualities of dress material
with heavy weight reduction. It gives
very good bouncy feel with complete
dry touch. It is suitable for both pad
and exhaust.
c Innersol GTX - Dose – 5-10 gms/lit.
It is suitable for 100 % polyester and
blends. It gives wet feel with soft sur-
face touch.
It gives smooth surface with inner soft-
ness.
d. Dry Peach - It is suitable for pad
only. It gives very high bounce with dry
A U G U S T 2 0 2 1

peach surface. More suitable for bright
qualities of sarees and dress material.
Following chemicals are used Zylon RS
– 20-30 gms/lit.
• Ultima XT 50 – 15-20 gms/lit
• Drybounce CST – 5-10 gms/lit.
Important Fabric Defects –
Practically all fabric defects that occur
in spun yarn fabrics can also occur in
filament yarn fabrics.
• Fabric Slip – Fabric slip occurs when
warp and weft yarns donot stay in
their respective positions as these were
placed during weaving on the loom. It is
prominent in light construction fabrics.
After heat setting the tendency to fab-
ric slip reduces considerably. Increase
in end pick density and warp-weft
crimp and early heat setting help to re-
duce fabric slip. For slip prone fabrics
special chemical finishes are required
to overcome this defect.
• Stitches – In case of filament warp
fabrics, it is the filamentation of yarns
that is mainly responsible for formation
of stitches on the loom. Application of
small amount of adhesive and ant-stat-
ic agent has been reported to reduce the
filamentation and hence warp breaks.
• Shiners – Shiners are a specific defect
of filament yarn fabrics only. These are
mainly caused by uneven surface of
the blanket on sanforising, or zero-zero
finish machine. Proper care should be
taken during buffing of the blanket.
• Temple Marks – The temple marks
are seen more prominently in filament
warp fabrics. This is because with
slight pressure the filament warp gets
disturbed and leave behind permanent
impressions. Temple spikes should not
be blunt, and rings should rotate freely.
• Formation of Balls on Fabric Surface
- Due to excessive abrasion of healds
and reeds some of the constituent fila-
ments break. These broken filaments
are collected by the reed in the form of
fiber balls which firmly adhere to warp
and fabric surface.
But nowadays polyester fabrics has be-
come a poor man fabric. But in 70 -80
s it was a rich man s fabric. Till date
Surat maintains the name of synthetic
city supplying polyester shirts, poly-
ester sarees, dress materials to the
whole of India and export to countries
like Middle east and African countries.
Polyester fabrics made from spun yarn
are used for furnishing fabrics like sofa
cover, Luxury bus seat covers, cinema
halls seat covers, Aeroplane seat covers
etc. The industries making the polyes-
ter fabrics for furnishing are in Gur-
gaon, Faridabad, Panipat etc.
There is good scope for polyester fab-
rics made from spun yarn, texturized
filament etc for school uniform, police
uniform, dress material etc. in Nigeria
and other African countries. Reliance
Industries has come out with very new
type of polyester fibre which will give
value addition to the polyester fabrics
sector such as Cationic Dyeable Poly-
ester (CDP), Easy Dyeable Polyester
(EDP), Cotlook Polyester, Low Pill Pol-
yester, Recycle Polyester, Fire-Retard-
ant Polyester etc.
NEWS UPDATE
TEXEL INDUSTRIES LTD TO START COMMERCIAL OPERATIONS OF ITS
10,080 MT GEOSYNTHETICS PRODUCTS FACILITY AT KHEDA
Company has launched Rs. 12.49 crore
Rights issue to fund the expansion;
Rights issue open from 31 August – 14
Sep at Rs. 40 per share
Speaking on the development, Mr.
Shailesh Mehta, Managing Director,
Texel Industries Ltd said, “Expansion
at our new facility in Kheda is going
as scheduled and we plan to start com-
mercial operations by end of September
2021. Post completion of the expansion,
installed capacity of the company will
double to more than 19,000 MT per
annum. Keeping in line with its con-
tinuous efforts towards sustainability,
Texel is now expanding its product mix
to include various new products such as
Roof Tile Underlay, Lumber Wrap, and
a Floating cover for water reservoirs.
The floating cover is a cover for farm
ponds and water reservoirs, which pre-
vents 30% loss of water through evapo-
ration.”
The company’s manufacturing facil-
ity is located at Santej, Gandhinagar,
Gujarat having an installed capacity
of 9,000 MT per annum. The manage-
ment has successfully turned around
the company and was able to rebuild
stakeholder confidence with higher
sales and profits, resulting in it getting
deregistered from BIFR in November
2016. For the quarter ended June 2021
promoter holding stands at 40.77% – a
rise of 647 basis points from 34.3% from
June 2020.
For FY20-21, the company reported
sales of Rs. 82.79 crore and Net profit
of Rs. 2.13 crore. For the Q1FY22, the
company posted a healthy 51% growth
in the net sales at Rs. 27.74 crore, Net
Profit was up 70% at Rs. 75 lakh. The
performance was achieved on the back
of robust demand on the domestic mar-
kets in the Tier 2,3 cities & rural areas
post unlock.
Company plans to raise up to Rs. 12.49
crore from the rights issue which is
open for subscription from 31 August to
September 14. Proceeds of the rights is-
sue will be utilised to fund the proposed
expansion in Kheda facility.
Post completion of the expansion, in-
stalled capacity of the company will
double to more than 19,000 MT per an-
num.
A U G U S T 2 0 2 1

17
C O V E R S T O R Y
MOBILON MONOFILAMENT
JAPANESE SPANDEX
The Nisshinbo Group was
founded in 1907. Nisshinbo
Textile is one of its seven
business divisions. From
development to produc-
tion, the Nisshinbo Group’s
textiles business possesses
world-class technology
in the fields of spinning,
weaving, knitting, process-
ing, and sewing.
As an Environment and
Energy Company group,
they strive to develop new
technologies and products
that contribute to the glob-
al environment and human
society through business
by reducing environmental load and
realising healthy and comfortable life-
styles in accordance with the concepts
of environment, health, and comfort.
Nisshinbo Textile has six core business-
es: Shirts, Denim, Textile Fabrics, Tex-
tile Materials, Mobilon (Elastan), and
Oikos (Unwoven Cloth). The Nisshinbo
Tokushima facility was established in
1958 on Shikoku Island.
To further boost their international
competitiveness, they have shifted pro-
duction sites overseas and are building
a global-scale production setup in the
most suitable locations. Willsilver Ex-
ports is an Indian company that works
with the Nisshinbo Group on Mobilon.
They aim to produce new values to
support the healthy and comfortable
lifestyles of people all over the world
by utilising our world-class technology
and global manufacturing setup.
Nisshinbo Textile developed Mobilon,
a form of spandex (polyurethane elas-
tic fiber), utilizing their own patented
technology. Mobilon is widely regarded
for its gentle touch when stretched,
ability to maintain shape, and wear-
ability. Pantyhose, innerwear, outer-
wear, sportswear, and oth-
er materials are among its
various application. Mean-
while, Thermal Adhesive
Mobilon is a game-chang-
ing spandex produced
from cutting-edge polymer
chemistry and fibre spin-
ning technology. It is dis-
tinguished by the spandex
being heat-sealed to each
other by the heat generat-
ed during the fabric’s pro-
duction. This provides a
variety of benefits, includ-
ing ladder prevention in
pantyhose and resistance
to curling, fraying, and
shrinking. Thermal Adhe-
sive Mobilon is being used
in a variety of products
around the world, includ-
ing ladder-proof pantyhose
and seamless clothes.
Their elastomer is a ther-
moplastic polyurethane
substance that was cre-
ated using their own pat-
ented technology. It is fre-
quently used in garments,
face masks, and other in-
dustrial products due to its high elas-
ticity, flexibility, and durability.
This exceptionally stable product com-
plies with Japan’s Food Sanitation Act
and the European Restriction of Haz-
ardous Substances (RoHS) directive, as
well as Japan’s Ekotex Standard.
Mobilon-R has the unique properties
of soft tightening power, good setup
ability, and outstanding heat fusing
performance. It can also create alkali
resistance. They offer bare spandex in
48 spools / box x 0.450 per spool from
Nishinbo Japan and are sold by MoRi-
Rin CO., Ltd. available in the following
sizes: 20D, 30D, 40D, and 70D. Special
spandex is also available for Nylon,
Wool, and Acrylic (with low and low low
heat setting temperatures), whereas
standard spandex has a pre-heat set-
ting of 175 degrees Celsius. When com-
pared to other dry type spandex, Mo-
bilon offers a mild recovery power.
As a result, when Mobilon is used in
pantyhose, superb pantyhose with a
soft fit feeling and comfortable leg-fit-
ting, easy to put on can be produced.
A U G U S T 2 0 2 1

Mobilon spandex can be used as two
purposes:
1) in place of regular spandex usage
Mobilon can be due to its MONOFILA-
MENT CUM MELT SPUN advantage
deliver a superior quality of spandex
fabric.
2) as FREE CUT UNDIES with proper
knitting techniques to achieve comfort-
able soft power fitting under garments
leaving smoother blood circulation
quality
Various brands are now using:
(a) MicroModal with Mobilon spandex
(b) Bamboo Viscose / Excel Lyocell / Mo-
bilon spandex
(c) Bamboo viscose / Zinc oxide polyes-
ter
(d)Antimicrobial Viscose / Polyester
Advantages of Mobilon monofila-
ment Japanese spandex
- soft power grip and comfort fit
- stable dimension even after several
washes and hence extended life
- improved pilling resistance due to
first class melting of spandex which
holds the fibres intact
- edge curling avoided in fabric stage
- preheat setting is at low temperature
175deg Celsius @1min dwell
- CAN HAVE WIDE RANGE OF
GSM using one count pair, eg., for in-
stance 40s+20D MobilonR can offer
130~200GSM due to its efficacy (sub-
ject to trials based on your dyeing ma-
chines)
Mobilon can be used for regular cloth-
ing, jersey fabrics made from cellulosic
or filament poly jersey:
• To achieve soft power yet stable fab-
rics, 5-6 percent spandex in 40s Micro-
Modal yarn is being used.
• This is a pair of traditional briefs
with elastic waistband.
However, Mobilon is recommended
for making FREECUT BRIEFS AND
PANTIES with no waist band elastic.
• There is no thigh or leg elastic.
• Raw cut edges are left open.
There are a number of international
undergarments and pantyhose produc-
ing companies that use mobilon in their
product development.
TEXTILE APPAREL JOBS is the Indian Global
Online Employment Platform for both Organization
who needs an Efficient Human Resource to build
strong team and for people who are seeking Dream
Jobs with Meaningful Career.
www.textileappareljobs.com texappjobs@gmail.com
A U G U S T 2 0 2 1
+91 9987256702

19
C O V E R S T O R Y
UNCERTAIN FUTURE,
NO NEW INVESTMENT…
MR. ANUBHAV TEWARI
Marketing Director,
Indian Acrylics Ltd.
Indian Acrylics Ltd is India’s largest
and most efficient acrylic fiber manu-
facturer, and a prominent world player
with exports to Asia, Europe, and the
Middle East.
Its dry spun (Du Pont Technology)
acrylic fiber quality is exceptional due
to its distinctive dog bone-shaped cross-
section and offers great lustre and soft-
ness.
Indian Acrylic is a popular producer of
acrylic fiber, tops, and tows due to prod-
uct optimization, dependability, and
environmental concern (green captive
power generation since 2002). It is also
making Acrylic Yarns in dyed and grey
both through Modified Cotton and Wor-
sted route, making 1500 tons of yarns
every month.
Share your company’s journey
Acrylic fibres and yarns are what we
make. Making yarns started around ten
years ago. Both colored and grey yarns
are produced. We are one of the larg-
est yarn manufacturers in the country
and an important player globally, with
a monthly output of 1500 tons. These
yarns are exported to various countries
across the globe. We also offer different
specialty products to our customers.
Our annual capacity is about 48000
tons in Fibre. Our utilisation is basi-
cally between 70-80%. We make about
18000 tons yarns.
We sell in different countries in Asia,
Europe, Africa, the United States, and
Australia. We primarily do dyed yarns.
Challenges in Pandemic
There were a few challenges that I think
the entire acrylic industry faced dur-
ing the pandemic like exorbitant ocean
freights, long transit periods, raw ma-
terial availability and high AN prices,
and high fiber prices consequently. Due
to the high raw material prices, there is
no room for anyone in the value chain
to get some margin. Due to this hike in
prices, customers are reducing produc-
tion, switching to blends of acrylic with
other less expensive fibres, or cheaper
substitutes that are a major challenge
for acrylic fibre and yarn manufactur-
ers. Cash flow situation in the Industry
is also a major concern. Wholesalers
invest beforehand and pay advances
for the end product, but due to excep-
tionally high yarn prices, they are not
gaining anything. Thus advances are
not flowing in and small knitters are
the worst affected due this cash crunch.
There is a major impact of this on de-
mand. What has worsened the whole
situation is the fear of 3rd wave. Peo-
ple are scared that if another wave hits
and there are lockdowns, the sale will
get affected and money will get blocked
in stocks as it is a seasonal product
(only winters)
There hasn’t been much upheaval in
terms of demand from various locations
in this segment. There is no new cat-
egory or new market that is supported
during COVID. The market dynamics
have not changed much.
Technology Upgradation
COVID last year opened few possibili-
ties in terms of technology application.
However, any such upgradation etc. is
time taking and needs investments too.
We anticipate another wave in the near
future. So, the focus remains on smooth
running of operations first rather than
looking too far ahead as there is a lot of
uncertainty even now. We have extend-
ed credit to some customers and also
provide competitive product pricing.
The demand shifts majorly to basic
products because customers assume
that basic will continue to move as it
is more need based and low value prod-
uct. If you make something fancy, say
for marriages and other special occa-
sions, and for women, there is no party
happening, no marriages with large
gatherings happening, and not much
outing happening, so as a result, buy-
ers invest primarily in simple products
that are more likely to move quickly. In
such a case, there isn’t much one can do
in terms of technology, functionality or
any such thing.
Consumption
Sweaters is the main product segment,
and school uniforms are the biggest
part of it. This segment has been se-
verely impacted because schools have
been shut since last year. Then there
are Carpets manufactured in small
numbers in India (Bhadohi etc.). Iran
and Turkey are the biggest manufac-
turers of carpets that are sold to cold
countries.
Then there are shawls, ladies’ cardi-
gans, suit material, prayer mats, em-
broidery yarns, hand knitting yarns for
making sweater, caps, mufflers, gloves
etc. Then there are saris, sarongs etc.
with acrylic as a replacement of silk fi-
bre.
Overall Sweaters should be 50-55
percent of total consumption, carpets
would be about 10-15 percent and other
segments as narrated above form the
rest.
A U G U S T 2 0 2 1

20 I N T E R V I E W
KUSUMGAR CORPORATES IN GROWTH
EVADING PANDEMIC CHALLENGES
MR. SIDDHARTH KUSUMGAR
Managing Director
Kusumgar Corporates is presently recognised as a market
leader in the highly specialised Technical and Specialized
Textiles sector. Mr. Yogesh Kusumgar recognised the enor-
mous potential of a business that was still in its infancy in
1970. He founded a company to suit the complex needs of
an ever-changing textile industry, starting small but think-
ing big. The company’s agility in offering bespoke solutions,
together with world-class quality and incredibly competitive
rates, drove it to a leadership position in a short period of
time.
Kusumgar Corporates has a solid track record in the field of
specialist textiles, offering a wide range of textiles for a wide
range of applications. Cordura fabrics, custom fabrics, geo-
synthetics, recreational fabrics, parachute fabrics, protective
fabrics, ballistic fabrics, filter fabrics, parasail fabrics, im-
pression fabrics, and medical textile fabrics have all thrilled
clients throughout the years.
The company’s phenomenal performance in the early years
allowed it to further solidify its market position. Manufac-
turing capacity was continually increased by utilising the
most advanced technology and equipment. The corporation
also moved forward to allow for greater value addition to its
product line while maintaining complete control over quality
standards and delivery timelines.
The move from weaver to coater of specialist fabrics provided
the company with the confidence to advance to the next level.
Today, Kusumgar is a skilled maker of specialty textiles as
well as a well-known knowledge supplier and whole solutions
consultant in India’s difficult technical textiles business.
How would you describe your company in a few sentenc-
es? Could you please provide us information about the
products in your portfolio?
In 1970, Mr. Yogesh Kusumgar, Chairman of Kusumgar Cor-
porates Pvt. Ltd (KCPL), realized the need for textiles for
non-apparel application, that is presently known as techni-
cal textiles, and started a business to meet the ever-growing
needs of a burgeoning industry. Today, Kusumgar has com-
pleted 50 years and is regarded as a pioneer in the industry,
synonymous with the development, production, and supply
of technical textiles.
KCPL has been recognized for its many awards including
the National Award for indigenization conferred by the Min-
istry of Defence. The other honours that the company has re-
ceived over the years are the Gold Vendor Award by Garware
Bestretch, Supplier Excellence Award by Parker Hannifin,
and Quality Promise to Zero Defect Award by Johnson and
Johnson.
Despite the huge potential in the market, technical textiles
are growing at a slower pace? Why?
The global demand for technical textiles is estimated at $180
bn and growing at a CAGR of 4%. The Asia Pacific is lead-
ing with 40% share, while North America and West Europe
stand at 25% and 22% respectively. On the other hand, the
demand for technical textiles in India is meager $20 bln. The
main reasons for low growth are:
i) Consumer awareness has not been created and the market
is not growing for technical textiles.
ii) Textile Industry is fragmented and low scale; the majority
of the manufacturing units do not have proper infrastructure
and quality consciousness to meet the stringent requirement
of technical textiles.
iii) There is a lack of R&D culture.
iv) Mandate of compulsory use for protection, environment,
DR. M.K. TALUKDAR
Consultant
A U G U S T 2 0 2 1

road safety, etc.
v) Non-availability of specialty fibres and yarns.
To overcome the drawbacks, recently the Ministry of Textiles
has set up the National Technical Textiles Mission that aims
at an average growth rate of 15-20% to increase the domes-
tic market size of technical textiles $40-50 bln by the year
2024 through market development, market research, mar-
ket promotion, international technical collaboration, new in-
vestments and make in India initiative. However, we have to
wait till 20024 to see the success of the mission.
Within the technical textiles what are the major segments
do you cater and which is the fastest-growing segment as
per you?
Ans. KCPL manufactures almost the whole gamut of techni-
cal textiles. We have experience in manufacturing more than
500 types of woven technical textiles using a wide variety of
materials including specialty yarns of rayon, polyester, and
polyamide to p-aramid yarns. The linear density of fabrics
ranges from 20 gsm to 1000 gsm and can supply fabric roll
length up to 2000 m. We have integrated manufacturing fa-
cilities from weaving to processing to coating/ laminating to
provide a complete solution.
Our custom-made fabrics meet the stringent requirement of
certain industries including aerospace, medical and indus-
trial. We also make fabrics for the rubber industry, outdoor,
luggage, military material like parachute fabrics, personnel
equipment, ballistic fabrics, protective clothing and uniform,
adventure sports, and inflatables.
At the moment due to the onset of Covid 19 and the need
for other medical applications, medical textile is the fastest
growing technical textiles at the rate of 15%.
How was 2020 for your company? How was your compa-
ny’s reaction to Pandemic? What was the impact of Pan-
demic in terms of sales, staff cut down, etc?
The world faced an unprecedented crisis and challenge with
the outbreak of the Corona Virus towards the end of Novem-
ber 2019, named Covid 19. Like many other companies, our
consumer products e.g., outdoor, luggage and automobiles
are severely affected, and sales of these products are sub-
stantially reduced.
On the flip side, there has been a huge demand for PPE (Per-
sonal Protective Equipment) for providing high-level protec-
tion to the health professionals dealing with Covid 19 pa-
tients. Within a few weeks, we developed the product and
tested to meet the stringent technical requirements as pre-
scribed by the Ministry of Health and Family welfare; KCPL
has become a potential supplier of PPE kits and face mask.
There was no reduction in the salaries of our staff nor re-
trenched the workforce. This was possible by controlling the
working capital, reducing inventories, and drastically slash-
ing the fixed costs.
Your company’s share in the Indian Market and Globally.
The market share of technical textiles of KCPL in our
country is about 15 %; nevertheless, for certain segments
like parachutes, ballistic fabric, our market share is almost
100%. Although our export is increasing every year, our pres-
ence in the global context is insignificant.
Tell us about your clients in India and which are the major
markets do you cover across globally.
The clienteles of KCPL are widespread and include:
1. Ordinance Parachute Factory (OPF), Kanpur.
2. Ordinance Equipment factory (OF), Kanpur.
3. Arial Delivery Res. & Dev. Estt. (ADRDE), Agra Cantt.
4. Defence Materials @ Stores Res. & Devp. Estt. (DMSRDE),
Kanpur.
5. Tata Advance.
6. Johnson & Johnson Limited, Mumbai.
7. Zodiac Aerospace Ltd.
8. PISA, South Africa
9. Uretek Inc.
10. Trelleborg Coated Systems US Inc.
11. Decathlon.
12. Coroplast, Germany
13. Cetroplast, Germany
14. Parker Hannifin
15. Garware Bestretch
Any expansion plans in the next 5 years in terms of capac-
ity, markets, and product development?
In the global competition of today’s world, KCPL restructures
itself to become a fast-changing high valued adding creator
of a niche market. To achieve this, KCPL’s joint ventures
such as Saati Kusumgar (P) Ltd. and Toray Kusumgar Ad-
vance Textiles with leading companies across the globe have
added capabilities to its portfolio and significantly increased
the quality of services. In 2019, the company, which used to
supply only aeronautical fabrics, was offered a transfer of
technology (TOT) by the Ministry of Defence of the Govern-
ment of India for manufacturing parachutes for the Indian
Army and thus forwarding integrating the company. These
parachutes are made under the guidance of the Gaganyaan
Human Space Programme, which is all set to be launched in
the year 2022.
The company has persistently worked towards expanding its
applications and trying out new ventures. All these develop-
ments will lead to KCPL’s ambition to achieve a turnover of
$5 bln (Rs 500cr) in the next couple of years.
21
I N T E R V I E W
A U G U S T 2 0 2 1

22 R E V I E W P A P E R
TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS IN
SPORTS TEXTILES
Abstract
India is emerging as significant market
for Technical textiles. The Sportech is
one of the fast growing sectors of Tech-
nical Textile which contributes around
7% of Indian technical textiles mar-
ket. Sports textile sector is divided in
three major categories such as sports-
wear, sport goods and sport accessories.
Further, Sportech comprises of tech-
nical textile products used in sports
and leisure such as sport shoes, sports
composites, flying and sailing sports,
parachute fabrics, artificial turf,
ballooning fabrics etc. Textile plays
a major role in sports and without
textiles, sports existence is very
difficult. Sports textiles, is techni-
cal textiles growing in wider range
with sophisticated technology.
Developments in technology has
seen in manufacturing sportswear
to ensure special features for bet-
ter performance in their activities
and to provide comfort to player.
Sportswear is clothing including
footwear worn for sports or exer-
cises, it also includes garments
like t-shirts, tracksuits etc. and there
also specialised apparels for wet suits
for swimming, cycling etc.
The use high functional and smart
textiles have proven their high level
of performance and succeeded in their
functional properties. According to
the functional requirements of sports,
special apparels for specific sports are
manufactured. Many fibres, yarns, fab-
rics and finishes developed to meet the
needs of the sports sector.
Introduction
Sports textiles are one of the various
branches of technical textile. In vari-
ous sports, the sportswear that play-
ers wear such as: jerseys or T-shirts,
trousers, shorts, caps, footwear, etc.,
and some sports accessories is used
is known as sports textile. This type
of clothing has some special features,
which have been made possible by the
use of high-tech and smart textile tech-
nology. Increasing interest in active
sports and out-door leisure activities
like flying, sailing, climbing and cycling
has led to immense growth in the con-
sumption of textile materials in manu-
facturing sportswear, leisure wear and
related goods and equipment.
Figure 1. Sports Equipment
Some Essential Features of Sports Tex-
tiles
1. Sports textiles must have the fea-
tures of adaptability, easy to wear, easy
handling etc.
2. Must have the ability to transport
heat and moisture i.e., fast drying and
cooling function.
3. Sports textiles have very high elec-
trical conductivity, so they must have
anti-static performance.
4. Must be resistant to anti-microbial.
5. Must have the ability to provide pro-
tection from ultraviolet rays.
6. There should be good air and water
permeability. Also, low water absorp-
tion of the layer of clothing facing the
skin.
7. Must have the ability to absorb mois-
ture quickly. So that the body absorbs
sweat from the skin quickly and helps
to keep the skin dry.
8. It should be strong and durable and
should be as light as possible.
9. Since this sports textile is known as
thermal conductivity, it makes it pos-
sible to feel cool in summer and
warmer in winter.
10. Sports textiles guarantee a bet-
ter level of defense than natural
and man-made fibers. They also
block UV-A and UV-B rays, which
are dangerous for the skin.
11. Easy care, smart and functional
design.
Requirements for Functional
Sportswear
Functional: For functional sports-
wear needs super light-weight, low
fluid resistance, and super high per-
sistence and stretch ablility. For those
that are seeking comfort and healthy
pursuits crucial characteristics include
thermal regulation, Ultra-violet resist-
ance, sweat absorption and quick dry-
ing, vapor permeableness.
Aesthetics: From sensitivity or aes-
thetics perspective softness, surface
texture, handle, luster, color and com-
fort are important factors
Main Raw Materials of Sports-
wear
The fabric used to make sportswear
can be made using both natural and
synthetic fibers. The list of that fibers
is mentioned below:
DR. J. ANANDHAKUMAR
M.Tech.M.B.A. Ph.D. Lecturer
Department of Textile Processing
GRG Polytechnic College
A U G U S T 2 0 2 1

23
R E V I E W P A P E R
Table 1. Raw Materials
Natural
Fibers
Synthetic
Fibers
Special Syn-
thetic Fibers
Cotton Polyester Micro fiber
Wool Nylon Carbon fiber
Silk Spandex Dacron
Polypro-
pylene
Lycra
Aramids Roica
Acrylic Leofeel
Special fibres used
• Killat N23
Killat N from Kanebo Ltd. is a nylon
hollow filament. The hollow portion is
about 33 per cent of the cross section
of each filament, due to which it gives
good water absorbency and warmth
retentive property. The manufacturing
technology of Killat N is very interest-
ing. The yarn is spun as bicomponent
filament yarn with soluble polyester
copolymer as the core portion and ny-
lon as the skin portion. Then by giving
alkali weight loss treatment the soluble
polyester copolymer of the bicomponent
filament will dissolve and a large hol-
low portion (exceeding 30 per cent of
the cross section) will be created.
• Dacron
4-Channel Polyester- a generic term
for a high-performance four-channel
fibre engineered to move moisture and
speed the evaporation of perspiration.
It is a superior fabric for wicking ac-
tion, drying time, moisture absorption
and transport. A high-performance,
four-channel fibre engineered to move
moisture and speed the evaporation of
perspiration. It is a superior fabric, for
wicking action, drying time, moisture
absorption and transport.
• Lycra25
Lycra, a truly synthetic fibre of long
chain polymer composed of at least 85%
segmented polyurethane, finds wide
range of end uses such as swimwear,
active sportswear, floor gymnastics be-
cause of its comfort and fit2O. Adding
Lycra to a fabric gives it stretch and re-
covery, particularly in gymnastics and
swimwear where body skin flexing and
stretching are inevitable. Lycra T-9026
requires still effort for the same exten-
sibility.
• Roica and Leofeel
Roica is a polyether type spandex made
by dry spinning method and Leofeel is
a soft nylon-66 yarn developed by Asa-
hi Chemical. The combination of Roica
and Leofeel in mixed knitted tricot
fabric gives a soft touch and excellent
stretch. It is mainly used in swim wear.
Fabrics
● “Entrant Dermizax EV“ is a light-
weight fabric having a feather smooth
texture with excellent waterproof/mois-
ture permeability and durable water
repellent such as 20,000 mm of water
pressure resistance and moisture per-
meability of 30,000 g/m2 /24 hrs. It is
an excellent and original active sports-
wear fabric with globally top class wa-
ter proof/moisture permeability, as well
as excellently durable water repellent.
Its action of waterproofing and mois-
ture permeability is shown in Figure 7.
● “Entrant HB” is a new generation fab-
ric with hybrid structure that energeti-
cally integrates the advantages offered
by a coating (well-balanced moisture
permeability) and lamination (high
water-proof). It has high resistance
to water pressure and high durability
against repeated washings (80 points
or higher after 20 wash cycles). Its
main application is outdoor wear.
● Toray has developed “H2OFF” made
up of polyester microfibre fabric with
a unique high-density weave structure
comprising millions of micro-crimped
fibre loops. It also feature superb and
durable water repellent, superior
breath ability and wind-chill resistance
and attractiveness with soft hand.
● Naiva30: Unitika has developed
Naiva fabric by combining the Naiva
yarn with a nylon microfibre. Naiva is
an Eval/nylon bi-component filament
yarn and Eval is nothing but a copol-
ymer resin of ethylene vinylalcohol.
Naiva yarn composition is 55% Eval
(23% ethylene + 32% vinyl alcohol) and
45% nylon. In the Naiva fabrics there
are many nylon micro loops on the sur-
face, which are formed by making use
of high thermal shrinkage property of
Naiva yarn. Naiva fabric not only has
good moisture permeability but also
has some other positive features like
lightweight, softness and has capabil-
ity of secondary finishing. The fabric is
very successfully used in mountaineer-
ing wear and other active sportswear.
● Field Sensor21: Field Sensor is a very
popular high-performance fabric from
Toray, which employs a multi-layer
structure that not only absorbs perspi-
ration quickly but also transports it up
to the outer layer of fabric very rapidly
using principle of capillary action. It
is composed of coarser denier yarn on
the inside surface (in direct contact
with skin), and fine denier hydrophobic
polyester yarn in a mesh construction
on the outer surface to accelerate quick
evaporation of sweat.
● COOLMAX®: DuPont CoolMax® is a
high-performance fabric that can help
the athletic performance of the people
who wear it. CoolMax® moves sweat
away from the body to the outer layer
of the fabric, where it dries faster than
any other fabric. In moisture manage-
ment tests, garments made with Cool-
Max® dried almost completely in 30
minutes. Cotton, by comparison, re-
mained wet by nearly 50%.
Better evaporation means you spend
less energy to cool your body, which
increases your performance and endur-
ance. CoolMax® fabrics are specially
designed to provide not only superior
moisture management, but also to en-
hance the wearer’s comfort. All of the
benefits of CoolMax® fabrics are per-
manently built right into the fibre, re-
quiring no chemical treatments.
Applications of Sports Textiles
Currently the use of sports textiles is
increasing day by day. Clothing and
sports equipment used in various
sports, clothing and mats used in yoga
exercises are all contributions of sports
textiles. Here are some uses:
T-shirts, Trousers, Shorts, Jerseys,
Tracksuits, Caps, Sports bras, Shoes
and various sports equipment such as
Football/volleyball, Sports net, Gloves,
Pads, Mats etc. are used for all types
of sports in Golf, Tennis, Mountaineer-
ing, Skiing, Cricket, Football, Volley-
ball, Swimming, Summer and Winter
Sports and Olympic Games. It also in-
cludes some inner-wear and jockstraps
for athletes. Also, among the special
uses of sportswear are swimming cos-
tume, sleeping bags, ballooning fabrics
and parachute fabrics. Artificial turfs
(grassland or carpet), this technology is
also used in Sportech.
A U G U S T 2 0 2 1

24 R E V I E W P A P E R
Use of Hi-tech and Smart Technology
in Sportswear
Figure 2. Smart textiles in sportswear
The use of high-tech textile materi-
als in sports is nothing new. In recent
years, some fabrics and designs have
been observed that can quickly remove
moisture from the body, meaning it ab-
sorbs sweat faster and dries the skin.
The patches on all black jerseys help
players dry their hands faster so they
can grip better.
On the other hand, some smart tech-
nologies are being used equally, so
that the clothes can understand the
player’s heart rate, temperature and
other physiological information. Tech-
nological textiles have been able to
produce some materials harder than
wood which keep the skin dry, water-
proof like rubber and at the same time
environmentally friendly and highly
profitable. Due to the widespread use
of advanced and smart technology in
today’s sports textiles, it is becoming
possible to produce high quality and
high-performance sports garments and
the quality of sports textiles is increas-
ing day by day.
Breathable Sports Textiles
Figure 3. Breathable sportswear
Different motives in the workplace
make it mandatory for some people to
wear special protective clothing. How-
ever, those who play different sports
prefer the desired outfits that directly
affect the performance, as the comfort
and ease of the outfit is associated with
the performance. As a result, it is quite
useful to make sure that sportswear
has certain features. The most basic
property of sportswear, of course, is
shortness of breath. The word respi-
ration refers to the fact that there is
active ventilation through the fabric.
Breathable fabrics measure the mois-
ture or vapor transmission rate, that
is, whether moisture enters the fabric
quickly or slowly. Breathable sports-
wear must ensure maximum heat and
humidity control, good air and water
vapor permeability, rapid moisture ab-
sorption and easy mobility, flexibility
near the skin, quick drying, minimal
water absorption, easy care, light and
delicate feel. Special finishing processes
can be used to increase the difference in
surface strength between the front and
back of a fabric to increase the ability to
keep sweat away from the body.
Artificial Turfs
Figure 4. Artificial Turfs
Artificial turf is a covering of synthetic
fibers made to look like natural grass.
It is often used on various playgrounds,
which are played on the grass outside,
such as: football, cricket, tennis, golf,
hockey, etc. In addition to the play-
ground, it is now being used in various
residential lawns, airports and com-
mercial purposes. These artificial turfs
are used in stadiums that are covered,
partially covered, where sunlight does
not reach.
As a result, it is not necessary to take
care of the field grass or prune the
grass. However, there are some down-
sides to artificial turf, such as: low du-
rability, the need for periodic cleaning,
the use of petroleum, and toxic chemi-
cals from infill, and health and safety
concerns.
Conclusion
Through continuous research and im-
provement, a number of other features
such as respiratory water resistance,
odourless clothing etc. are being associ-
ated with sports textiles. This is lead-
ing to a few notable technological devel-
opments. The production of breathable
sportswear in various combinations
will undoubtedly increase the level of
comfort in sportswear. These qualities
are needed to keep players dry and con-
fident. Breathable fabrics combined
with features such as UV protection,
skins and compression garments are
advancing in the field of breathable
sportswear technology with the aim of
enhancing performance in sports. Also,
through the application of the smart
textiles & wearable technologies, sports
textiles are performing more functional
activities easily & smartly.
Acknowledgement
The author of this article thankful to
the Management of GRG Institutions
for their continuous support, valuable
guidance and inputs.
References
1. https://www.technicaltextile.net
2. https://www.fiber2fashion.com
3. https://www.pledgesports.org
4. Dr V K Kothari: Technical Textiles
– Growth Potential and Prospects in
India.
5.www.feelmaxsport.com/CoolMax%20
info_eng.pdf.
6. http://www.vutch.sk.
7. http://www.spiuk.com.
8. www.design-technology.org/sportss-
hoes1.htm.
9. https://www.ulster.ac.uk/scienceinso-
ciety/technologyinsport.html
10. https://www.ittaindia.org
11. https://www2.dupont.com/Sport-
ing_Goods/en_US/assets/downloads/
ap81069.pdf
12. https://www.wraindia.com/MOT-
Project
13.Source: www.global.adidas.com/
A U G U S T 2 0 2 1

25
AUTOMATION IN TEXTILE SPINNING
Faculty, SVITT, SVVV, Indore
Mr. Tanveer Malik
S P I N N I N G U P D A T E
INTRODUCTION
Every spinning mill aims to produce a
better quality of yarn with maximum
efficiency. Now microprocessor tech-
nology and solid-state circuits have
brought it on board, doing it faster than
anyone imagined. Electronics helps to
monitor machine speed, analyze down-
time problem and compute efficiency
of machines. The modern electronic
control systems offer functions for op-
timal running and supervising of all
machines thereby making step-by-step
improvements in each yarn-making
process.
1. AUTOMATION IN BLOWROOM
In modern blow room, the line whole
process is graphically indicated with
the running mode of entire installation
as well as that of individual machines.
All relevant events are registered on
the hard disc of the computer and can
be recalled, printed, or transferred to a
floppy disk at any time. In it, all ma-
chines are connected by LAN. Fiber
Control Corp. offers a package of elec-
tronics that will continuously, visually
monitor, and /or optionally record each
weigh-pan dump in a central location.
Uniflow, automatic bale opener pro-
cesses raw material with up to groups
of differing bale heights. Metal ejec-
tors electronically detect magnetic and
non-magnetic metals down 2.5 mm di-
ameter and automatically ejects them
from the material flow. Some selected
electronic controls used in blow room
are given in the next section:
1.1 Bale Height Measurement in Uni-
floc
The take-off unit of uniflow moves down
until the light’s barrier is covered. Then
a transport drive is switched on. The
differences in height are measured con-
stantly. As soon as a slight bump is de-
tected and the light barrier is also cov-
ered, the take-off unit moves upward at
low speed until the light barrier is free
again, the height is registered.
1.2 Use of Proximity Switches
In blow room, proximity switches and
limit switches are used at different
places to provide safety operations,
length measurement, collision protec-
tion, etc. Some of these functions are:
• Foreign body detection
• Length measurement
1.3 Use of Photocells
In spinning, control of linear density
is very important, to ensure smooth
working of the process. Optical sens-
ing systems find useful applications in
blow rooms. Photocells are installed at
different places to control the level of
cotton. Similarly, photocells are used in
blending chambers and filling trunks to
ensure the correct level of material.
2. Electronic application in card
Crosol Ltd. developed electronics for
chute-feed which uses electronic, logic
systems to handle the event sequence.
Zellweger Uster Ltd. markets card con-
trol which is a long-term autoleveller
system. It monitors and corrects sliver-
weight variation occurring longer than
the correction length 25-30 m.
2.1 Measurement of cylinder speed
The cylinder speed is measured by us-
ing the perforated disk mounted over
the cylinder shaft and the proximity
switch generates a pulse whenever a
hole passes in front of the proximity
switch, these pulses are counted by an
electronic counter for calculation of cyl-
inder speed.
2.2 Measurement of Delivery Speed
The delivery speed is continuously
measured using the same method as
used for cylinder speed measurement.
2.3 Regulation of Doffer Speed
The control circuit serves mainly to
automatically register the draft in the
delivery and correct the speed of the de-
livery motors using the inverter drive.
2.4 Measurement of Distance Be-
tween Flats and Cylinder
Nowadays, an electronic system is
used for the exact measurement of the
distance between flats and cylinders.
Measurement can be made with the
cylinder in rest or running condition.
For this purpose, a proximity switch is
used.
2.5 Nep Control at Card
The optical online nep control was first
introduced in the world by Trutzschler.
In this system, the guide profile un-
derneath the doffer roll is exchanged
against the nep sensor. A small video
camera passes through this profile,
which is covered with a glass plate and
takes five pictures per second on the
web. The image analyzing software
evaluates these pictures and differen-
tiates between trash and neps and ac-
cordingly, indicates size and location.
2.6 Autoleveller
It is used to measure the sliver thick-
ness variation and then act continuous-
ly to alter the draft accordingly so that
more draft is applied at thick places
and less at thin places with the result
that the sliver delivered is less irregu-
lar than it otherwise would have been.
In addition to an improvement in the
product appearance, autolevelling can
waste and constant process conditions.
The autoleveller is an online monitor-
ing device in the spinning process.
3. Electronics Application in Draw
Frame
3.1 Stop Motion in Draw Frame
To ensure the smooth working of the
draw frame, stop motion is a must.
Suppose we are feeding 8 slivers in a
draw frame, if one of the slivers gets
broken then this sliver has different
properties than the previous. If we are
using a draw frame for blending, then
their blend ratio will change. So, by use
Mr. Ajay Shankar Joshi Mr. T. K. Sinha
A U G U S T 2 0 2 1

26
of electrical and optical sensors, we can
eliminate this defect.
3.2 Draft Commander Functions
These are for example delivery speed,
production rate, sliver fineness, CV
values, single drafts, total draft, shift
data, and rotational speeds. In case of
malfunction, a detailed indication of
the trouble source appears on the dis-
play. This reduces the time for fault de-
tection and increases the availability of
the machine.
3.2 Online Collection
Online collection of all operating data
for a constant good sliver quality is done
by a microcomputer. Spectrograms,
spectrogram analysis, length variation
graphs, sliver count diagrams, produc-
tion data, shift reports, daily reports,
and lot reports, efficiency and stand-
still analysis as well as trouble reports
are readily available at any time. Every
single meter of sliver is checked auto-
matically and thus the need for lab
sampling is eliminated.
4. Electronics Application in Speed
Frame
The flyers are aerodynamically bal-
anced to a higher degree of precision
and are enclosed in design. The build-
ing motion has also been improved to
enable a better package with a mini-
mum of stretch. As a result, breakage
rates are reduced enabling a higher
speed and productivity. A fluid coupling
is introduced in the drive, which facili-
tates a soft start. The breakages at the
time of jerky start are reduced and as
the starting torque is lower, the motor
HP can be reduced enabling power sav-
ings. Electronic oft start attachments
are also offered by some parties where
the full speed is gradually reached for
20 sec. The power consumption and
maximum demand are reduced by such
attachments. Positively driven clearers
which are kept clean by an oscillating
doctor blade, overcome the problem of
stub-like defects due to the incorpora-
tion of fluff accumulated on clearer
pads into the strand. Provision of pneu-
matic and stop motions also helps to
minimize lashing in and of bobbins.
Ball-bearing footstep bearing helps to
reduce power consumption by 3%-4%.
The suspended flyer is a standard fea-
ture in the latest speed frame as tills
help to achieve higher flyer speeds and
bring down doffing time.
5. Electronics Controls in Ring Frames
Modern ring frames incorporate sev-
eral innovative electronic controls that
enable higher productivity with im-
proved quality.
5.1 Variable Speed Drives
To keep breakage under control, at
all positions of doffing. Spindle speed
should be controlled. Speeds are kept
lower at cop bottom and towards the
end of the doff and at much higher at
other positions of doffing to achieve
spindle speeds.
5.2 Servo-Motor Driven Front and
Back Rollers
Servomotor systems use an individual
motor for spindle, front roller, and back
roller which are computer controlled.
So, by just feeding the draft and TPI we
can change the yarn specifications very
easily. The advantage of using servomo-
tors is:
• Quick yarn specification change.
• Very easy to adjust yarn specifica-
tion.
• No need to change gear
• Reduction of gear noise.
5.3 Roving Stop Motion
Roving stop motion detects the end
break and stops the roving to that spin-
dle arresting the back roller movement.
Whenever yarn breaks optical sensors
detect and gives the signal for further
action.
5.4 Travelling Sensor
The sensor generates a magnetic field
that is affected by the rapidly rotating
traveler. If yarn breaks, rotation of the
traveler ceases, and the sensor detects
it and gives a pulse. The microproces-
sor already identifies the spindle from
the travel time of the sensor.
5.5 Doffing Sensor
This sensor is mounted on the spindle
rail to register the number of doffs and
the time taken for each. The indication
of end breaks using lamps, resulting
in a reduction in patrol time, and the
reports are made available at any mo-
ment and the shift end.
6. Electronics Applications in Winding
6.1 Yarn Clearer
The electronic clearer monitors yarn
quality in the yarn path at any winding
speed. Released by a yarn fault signal,
the yarn-cutting blade of the cutter ex-
ecutes cutting orders, preventing yarn
containing thick or thin places or dou-
ble ends from running onto the pack-
age.
6.2 Automatic Splicer
In modern winding machines wind-
ing head has its splicing unit which
automatically joins the two yarn ends
together after a yarn breaks or the bob-
bin changes itself. The two opened-up
yarn ends are placed, overlapped, into
an intermingling chamber. A jet of com-
pressed air, which is adjustable accord-
ing to the yarn characteristics, such as
pressure and reaction time, joins the
two ends together.
6.3 Controlling Yarn Tension and
Winding Speed
The tension sensor continuously de-
tects actual winding tension, positioned
immediately before the drum. The ten-
sion discs rotate against the direction
of the running yarn, thus preventing
the build-up of dirt particles, abrasion
or even entangling of the yarn at the
shell surface.
6.4 Auto Doffing
Auto doffer unloads the package and
places the empty cone and the reserve
of yarn at the preset length suitable for
the next process. Continuous commu-
nication between the computer and the
heads sends the trolley, in sequence,
to the next position when the preset
length is about to be reached but be-
fore it is completed. There is an empty
tube on the trolley ready for use, which
is substituted during the doffing cycle
time.
Conclusion
Electronics has made almost all the ar-
eas of the textile industry more reliable
to improve the quantity and quality of
the material.
References:
• Advanced Spinning Systems, NCUTE
Programme, IIT Delhi
• Electronic controls in textile ma-
chines, NCUTE Programme, IIT Delhi
• www.rieter.com
A U G U S T 2 0 2 1
S P I N N I N G U P D A T E

27
C A R B O N F O O T P R I N T
CARBON FOOTPRINT IN TEXTILE INDUSTRY
Mr. Krishna Kant Arya
Abstract
Global warming represents a major
subject on all society levels including
governments, economic actors, and
citizens. The textile industry is often
considered a polluting activity. In this
project, French textile manufacturers
sought to quantify the carbon footprint
(CF) of sold clothes and household
linen using the Life Cycle Assessment
in France to reduce it to meet the con-
straints of the Paris Agreement by
2050. First, manufacturers calculated
the carbon footprint of 17 clothes and
household linen products and estab-
lished alternative scenarios for four
production routes. Secondly, they mod-
eled the supply of the upstream sector
through different countries. Based on
imports of textile products, their calcu-
lated CF for one French person reaches
442 kg of CO2eq/year. Means of action
to reduce this carbon footprint by a fac-
tor of 6 (74 kg of CO2eq/person/year
for textiles) are calculated and are the
following: installing the most energy-
intensive production processes in a
country with a low carbon electricity
mix, avoiding unsold goods, implement-
ing eco-design approaches, and enhanc-
ing the value of end-of-life products
with reuse or recycling. Therefore, CF
for textiles per capita is reduced to 43
kg CO2eq/year which goes beyond the
objectives of the Paris Agreement and
facilitates carbon neutrality in the tex-
tile sector. The priority for reducing the
French carbon footprint of clothes and
household linen would be to locate tex-
tile production in countries with (i) low
carbon electricity, (ii) to reduce unsold
items, and (iii) to elaborate eco-design
of a product including the circular econ-
omy.
Keywords: textiles; clothes; apparel;
household linen; carbon footprint; cir-
cular economy; recycling; life cycle as-
sessment; LCA; Product Environmen-
tal.
1. Introduction
The awareness of global warming is om-
nipresent in political strategies, and it
is increasing more and more in consum-
er choices. Despite this fact, consump-
tion of mass-market products is grow-
ing, and global Greenhouse Gas (GHG)
emissions continue to grow. There is an
increase of 1.7% in 2017, 2.1% in 2018,
and a little decrease to 0.6% in 2019 (1).
These variations led to annual emis-
sions of more than 53 billion tons of
CO2 equivalent in 2019 (2). On a world-
wide scale, this growth seems to be un-
appeasable, even if European countries
tend towards controlling and reducing
carbon emissions. Regarding emissions
mitigation, Germany is the leading
country reaching 8% in 2019; whereas
France has difficulty in following their
example (−1% only) (3). The outcomes
are potentially serious, particularly if
the predictions believe that the warm-
ing level will reach 2◦C in 2050 and ex-
ceed 4◦C in 2100. Furthermore, beyond
the consideration of the water-level rise
that is projected to reach more than
0.7 m (1), the drastic foreseeable con-
sequences are already there, such as
an increase in climatic hazards, forest
fires, etc. (4-6). With the Paris Agree-
ment in 2015, limiting global warming
on a worldwide scale was planned to be
a maximum of 2◦C by 2100 (6). For this
objective to be reached, the GHG emis-
sions must be reduced on average by
a factor of 6 for the next 30 years. The
first strategy would require targeting
the main GHG source sectors and dras-
tically reducing them. Nevertheless,
the analysis of emissions indicates that
75% of a citizen’s emissions in unde-
veloped countries are covered by three
sectors: mobility, heating, and food (7).
In that context, dividing the emissions
by 6 seems difficult as a solution since
nobody wants to stop these three main
causes of emission. In addition, these
large emission sectors can be subdivid-
ed into small sources of GHG emissions
contributing to global warming. This
observation leads to the main proposed
solution by maintaining the same
standard of living while reducing GHG
emissions by a factor of 6. The world-
wide textile sector is accused of being
“the second most polluting industrial
sector after hydrocarbons” according to
the French President (8). However, it is
known that one consumer buys on av-
erage a few kilograms of textiles each
year. This general accusation is raising
many questions from the manufactur-
ers of textiles in France, among them,
their impact on the environment. To ad-
dress this issue, they decided to quanti-
fy the carbon impacts of the household
linen and clothes industry (excluding
footwear) using the Life Cycle Assess-
ment method (ISO 14040-44). (9,10)
This method, now highly regulated
by ADEME (French EPA) and Euro-
pean Union within the framework of
the Product Environmental Footprint
(PEF), quantifies the environmental
impact of products from the extraction
of resources till their end-of-life (11,12).
For such a calculation, the challenge
is to define the function that must be
satisfied, the scope of the study, and
the impact categories covered. For
that purpose, this work studied the
CF (carbon footprint) for one kilogram
of the textile purchases (mix of house-
hold linen and clothes) during the year
2019 (13). The textile sector is at the
same time a first-rate economic sector,
but also an industrial and retail sector
with astonishing complexity. This is
due mainly to the globalization of the
textile production sector, the successive
offshoring of production means, and
the consequences coming out of modern
fashion temporarily (14). Thus, an im-
portant part of the study is describing
the calculation methodology of the CF
and its implementation in the textile
sector to identify and quantify improve-
ment solutions.
1.1 Definition of carbon footprint
The term the carbon footprint was first
used in the concept of ecological foot-
A U G U S T 2 0 2 1

28
print proposed By Williams Reese and
other scholars. An ecological footprint is
a biologically productive regional space
that can continuously provide resourc-
es or absorb
waste areas,
which means
To maintain
the survival of
a person, re-
gion, country,
or the world,
or to accommo-
date the Waste
discharged by
human beings,
with biological
productivity of
the area (23).
1.2 The Carbon Footprint is assessed
in 2 layers
1. Primary footprint – monitors car-
bon emission directly through energy
consumption – burning Fossil fuels for
electricity, heating, and transportation,
etc.
2. footprint- relates to indirect carbon
emissions (Life cycle of products and
Sustainability).
Thus, the most effective way to de-
crease a carbon footprint is to either de-
crease the amount of energy needed for
production or to decrease the depend-
ence on carbon-emitting fuels.
The textile industry is one of the ma-
jor consumers of water and fuel (energy
required for electric power, steam, and
transportation). The per capita con-
sumption of textiles is about 20 kg/
year and Increasing day by day. The
world population has reached 7 bn out
of which almost 18 % is from India.
Thus, the energy requirement and con-
sequently the Carbon footprint of the
Textile industry In India is consider-
ably high and at the same time, the
Textile Industry in India is
Expected to grow from an estimated
size of US$ 70 bn today to US$ 220 bn
by 2020 which would Proportionately
increase the impact on our Carbon
Footprint. Thus, we must take immedi-
ate steps and develop innovative tech-
nologies and sustainable solutions that
can help reduce the environmental im-
pact. The Government is also Demand-
ing industries to comply with stricter
conditions for environmental protec-
tion (15).
Use the estimated Global consumption
and processing of textile substrates is
shown above. In India Also, Polyester
and Cotton constitute more than 80
% of textile processing. The textile in-
dustry, according to the U.S. Energy
Information Administration, is the 5th
largest Contributor to CO2 emissions.
Thus, the textile industry is huge and
is one of the largest sources of green-
house gasses on Earth. In 2008, annual
global textile production was estimated
at 60 bn Kg of fabric. The estimated en-
ergy and water needed to produce such
quantity of fabric is:
• 1,074 bn kWh of electricity or 132 mn
MT of coal and
• About 6-9 tn liters of water
Thus, the thermal energy required per
meter of cloth is 4,500-5,500 Kcal and
the electrical energy required per me-
ter of cloth is 0.45-0.55 kwh The carbon
footprint of the textiles is estimated
based on the “embodied energy’ in the
fabric, comprising all the energy used
at each step of the process needed to
create that fabric. To estimate the em-
bodied energy in any fabric it’s neces-
sary to add all the process steps from
fiber To finished goods. Based on the
fiber used the carbon footprint of vari-
ous fibers varies a lot (16)(17).
Further, based on the study done by the
Stockholm Environment Institute on
behalf of the Bioregional Development
Group, the energy used (and therefore
the CO2 emitted) to create 1 ton of
Spun fiber is much higher for synthet-
ics than for cotton:
Fiber Kg CO2/Ton
of fiber
Polyester 9.52
Cotton-conventional 5.89
Cotton 3.75
For natural fibers, the energy con-
sumption starts at planting and field
operations – mechanized Irrigation,
weed control, pest control and fertiliz-
ers (manure vs. synthetic chemicals),
harvesting, And yields. Synthetic fer-
tilizer use is a major component of
conventional agriculture: making One
ton of nitrogen fertilizer emits nearly
7 tons of CO2 equivalent greenhouse
gases. In the case of Synthetics, the fib-
ers are made from fossil fuels, where a
very high amount of energy is
consumed in extracting the oil from the
ground as well as in the production of
the polymers. (17)(18).
The Embodied Energy used in the pro-
duction of various fibers:
Fiber Energy in MJ/
Kg of fiber
Cotton 55
Wool 63
Viscose 100
Polypropylene 115
Polyester 125
Acrylic 175
Nylon 200
Natural fibers, in addition to having a
smaller carbon footprint, have many
additional benefits: Being able to be
degraded by micro-organisms and com-
posted (improving soil structure); in
this way, the fixed CO2 in the fiber will
be released and the cycle closed. On the
other hand, Synthetic fibers do not de-
compose in landfills, they release heavy
metals and other additives into soil and
groundwater. Recycling requires costly
separation, while incineration produces
Pollutants – in the case of high-density
polyethylene, 3 tons of CO2 emissions
are produced for every 1 ton of mate-
rial burnt. Substituting organic fibers
for conventionally grown fibers consid-
erably helps reduce carbon Footprint
based on (18).
• Elimination of synthetic fertilizers,
pesticides, and genetically modified or-
A U G U S T 2 0 2 1
C A R B O N F O O T P R I N T

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