3. 3March 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com
www.rieter.com
Sagar Manufacturers Pvt. Ltd.
E-2/4, Arera Colony
Opp. Habibganj Railway Station
Bhopal - 462016 (M.P.)
Phone 0755-2460107/08
Fax - 0755-4077097/98
www.thesagar.in
We feel that compact yarn
Com4®compact is the future
of comprehensive fabric
quality and Rieter compact
spinning machine is having
very high reliability for
making consistent quality
for years together with
least cost incurring for
manufacturing.
V. K. Jain
Executive Director
Com4® yarns from Rieter spinning machines fulfill the
most exacting requirements. Excellent properties ensure
competitiveness in a dynamic market. The benefits are also
visible in downstream processing and in the final product.
6. 6 March 2017www.textilevaluechain.com
EDITORIAL
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and present factual and accurate information.
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and not necessarily that of the publisher. Textile
Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely
errors that might occur or any steps taken
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We are in the era of the world where without smart technology & social media our life would be miserable.
Smart technology upgrading our life in more comfort zone by technologically upgraded products we use in our
routine life like mobile phones, household equipments, entertainment products/services, cosmetics /personal
care products, automobiles, computers, travel products etc. Social media forced us to live in virtual world over
real world; human mindset / values are changing from group living to nuclear living, selfless to selfish behaviour,
secure to insecure life, united to broken families etc. Human are feeling lonely in the crowd so they are constantly
living in virtual world & vice versa. This reality is heading towards a breakdown of traditional social set up we have
created. Business world will take real advantage of this situation to earn in materialistic world, which is acceptable,
if they produce sustainable and technological advance products which human can connect & feel comfortable.
As the natural climatic condition is changing every year, we are heading towards unbalanced, extreme environ-
ments at any point of time. This will also have a major change in the world of textile industry.
In a business world, every industry upgrading & innovating the products and services they supply to the world.
Why not textile and fashion? Our industry also moving slowly from awareness of new fibres to technological ad-
vanced fashion garments. New age sustainable fabrics to technically advanced fabrics. Today entire world wanted
and waiting to innovate in wearable technology, wherein garments are more functional & multipurpose than just
to cover the body. Sports textiles manufacturing brands already at innovation stage & moving on as compare to
other segments.
Now, at next stage of innovation, World needs integration of smart mobile to smart textiles. Application which
runs on garments. Are we Indians ready for next generation smart technological textiles and garments? Do our re-
search association really doing research on these directions? As of now, Asian countries being manufacturing hub
for conventional textiles, but do these countries really geared up with advance technological fabrics for which
demand in near future will be generated by the world population?
Let our presence in the world felt by contributing in a way we can, size does not matter. Doing best with posi-
tive intentions which makes a life and world a better place to live..!
Wishing you all a Very Happy New Financial Year..!!!
Are we ready with smart textiles?
Ms. Jigna Shah
Editor & Publisher
7. 7March 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com
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INDUSTRY
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City Editor - Vyapar ( Janmabhumi Group)
Mr. Manohar Samuel
President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries
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EDUCATION / RESEARCH
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Back Page: Raymond
Back Inside: Oerlikon
Front Inside : Raysil
Page 3: Rieter
Page 4: Non Woven Tech
Page 5: SGS Innovations
Page 7: Indian Textile Sourcing Exhi-
bition
Page 8: SKBS
Page 9: Technotex
Page 39: RSWM
Page 40: Texfair
Page 41: Techtextil Frankfurt
Page 42: Deep Textile
Page 43: ITMACH India
Page 44: Sanjay Plastics
Page 45: Taiwan Textiles
Page 46: Savio India
March 2017 ISSUE
Advertiser Index
CONTENT
GLOBAL FOCUS
11- China’s commercial and Geopolitical initiative silk road trade route
by Mr. Arvind Sinha
NEWS
12- GOTS New Version 5.0 released
20- Kate Middleton & A-list designer favourite Daniella Helayel col
laborates with Koovs for the Princess collection
26- CMAI organised Seminar on Labour law & Important Acts
26- NITRA embraces Green power, goes the solar way
41- German high quality products for ironing
COVER STORY: Creating Sustainable chain by Innovative Fibres
13- Innovative fibres / Yarns for Technical Textile Sector
by Mr. Avinash Mayekar
15- Sustainable trends for man-made fibres – Rieter
16- FT6E & FT7E : leading edge roving frame technology – Marzoli
18- World of Textile : TVC Team
18- Do you have water balance sheet of your factory ?
by Ms. Chitralekha Vaidya
21- Jammu Apparel Market by Mr. Hari Govind Mishra
HR FOCUS
22- NSQF level compliance of skill development courses
by Dr. Swapna Mishra
23- India, the third largest Asian economy, ranked 131 on human devel-
opment Index : UN
TECHNICAL TEXTILE
23- Protective work wears for workers working in cement industry
by NITRA
MARKET REPORT
24- Surat Report
25- Malegaon Report by Mr. Aleem Faizee
27- Yarn Report by YNFX
EVENT REPORT
29- ISCI fellowship award and felicitation of Dr. K.R. Kranti, CIRCOT
30- Joint Technological conference by BTRA / NITRA/ ATIRA/SITRA
32- Australian Cotton Delegation in India / Key Challenges facing Aus-
tralia’s Cotton Industry
33- Australia’s Cotton Industry in the Global Market
34- Taiwan Textile in Technotex 2017
37- Texprocess / Techtexil
BRAND FOCUS
35- Arvind Limited & Invista
36- ATE partnerships
38- SHOW CALENDAR
11. 11March 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com
China’s Commercial & Geopolitical initiative
Silk Road Trade Route
China is reviving the historic Silk Road trade route that runs be-
tween its own borders and Europe. Announced in 2013 by President
XiJinping, the idea is that two new trade corridors – one overland,
the other by sea – will connect the country with its neighbors in the
west: Central Asia, the Middle East and Europe.
The project has proved ex-
pensive and controversial. So
why is China doing it?
There are strong commer-
cial and geopolitical forces at
play here, first among which is
China’s vast industrial overca-
pacity – mainly in steel manu-
facturing and heavy equip-
ment – for which the new
trade route would serve as
an outlet. As China’s domestic market slows down, opening new
trade markets could go a long way towards keeping the national
economy buoyant.
Hoping to lift the value of cross-border trade to $2.5 trillion
within a decade, President Xi Jinping has channelled nearly $1 tril-
lion of government money into the project. He’s also encouraging
state-owned enterprises and financial institutions to invest in infra-
structure and construction abroad.
It is not an economic project, it is a geopolitical project - and it
is very strategic.It’s clear that relationships with the ASEAN region,
Central Asia and European countries stand to improve significantly
if China directs more of its capital into developing infrastructure
overseas.
Moreover, by striking up economic and cultural partnerships
with other countries, China cements its status as a dominant player
in world affairs.
“We will support the One Belt, One Road project, said President
of the Asian Infrastructure Investment Bank, Jin Liquin”. But be-
fore we spend shareholders’ money, which is really the taxpayers’
money, we have three requirements.” The new trade route should
be promote growth, be socially acceptable and be environmentally
friendly.
What is China’s Silk
Road?
It’s a govern-
ment policy officially
known as One Belt,
One Road.
It is trying to cre-
ate a modern ver-
sion of the ancient
network of trade
routes, which con-
nected China, Europe and Africa.
In the words of Chinese President Xi Jinping:
“The economic belt along the Silk Road is home to almost 3 bil-
lion people, and represents the biggest market in the world with
unparalleled potential”.
My Experience is that One Belt, One Road is not just a good
medium for China’s openness to countries abroad it’s also a way to
share Chinese experience with the countries involved.
The New Silk Road policy covers both land and maritime routes,
but it’s much more than a transport project. The Chinese govern-
ment says it’s designed to boost global free trade and help coun-
tries coordinate their economic policies. As many as 60 nations
could be included in the initiative Start with a port, and behind
that you have an industrial zone and behind that you have a city
so, what we offer you is a full package who wins from that? Local
people one report said there were already 900 projects planned at
an estimated cost of $890 billion, it’s not yet clear where all of this
money will come from, But China has already set up a $50 billion Silk
Road Fund to support its mission.
China to run 1,000 cargo trains to Europe in 2017
BEIJING: China will run nearly 1,000 cargo trains to Europe in
2017, more than double the number from last year, as the Commu-
nist trading giant ramps up efforts to boost its dwindling exports.
The cargo trains from southwest China’s Chengdu city would
be doubled, the Chengdu International Railway Services Company
said today.
Chengdu, capital of southwest China’s Sichuan Province, ran
460 cargo trains to cities in Poland, the Netherlands and Germany
last year -- more thanany other Chinese city.
Chengdu delivered a total of 73,000 tonnes of goods worth
1.56 billion dollar in 2016 globally, state-run Xinhua news agency
reported.
The southwestern hub has planned three major rail line services
to Europe, with a middle route to Germany, Poland and the Nether-
lands, a southern route to Turkey and beyond, and another north-
ern route to Russia.
This year, new routes linking Chengdu to Istanbul and Moscow
will be officially launched, company chairman Fan Jun was quoted
Mr. Arvind Sinha
CEO - Business Advisors Group
Cell No. 9820062612
Email ID: lionasinha@gmail.com
GLOBAL FOCUS
12. 12 March 2017www.textilevaluechain.com
as saying by the report.
The cargo trains from southwest China’s Chengdu city would
be doubled, the Chengdu International Railway Services Company
Trains to Istanbul and Moscow would take about 16 days and
10 days, with each route planning to operate 200 and 150 trains in
2017, respectively.
China last month has launched its first freight train to London.
London is the 15th city in Europe added to China-Europe freight
train services.
Demand for rail cargo service between China and Europe, an
alternative to slower and riskier sea freight and much costlier air
cargo, has exploded in recent years.
• By June 2016, trains had made nearly 2,000 trips between 25 Chi-
nese cities and Europe, with a total import and export value of
$17 billion, it said.
• China’s exports totalled to $2.27 trillion in 2015 slowing down
from $2.34 trillion in 2014.
• China’s economy grew at 6.9 per cent in 2015 slipping below
seven per cent in a quarter of century.
• As part of its efforts to stabilise its exports and economy, China
has embarked on multibillion dollar global connectivity project
called the One Belt One Road, (Silk Road).
The New Silk Road: China Launches Beijing-London Freight Train
Route
A general view of the first China Railway Express, a new railway
line from China to Europe during the inauguration by visiting Chi-
nese President Xi Jinping in Warsaw, Poland, on the sideline of the
International Forum on the New Silk Road, Monday, 20 June 2016.
The visit was intended to boost China’s infrastructure investments
in Europe, and opening China’s market to Poland’s foods.
On Sunday, the Chinese government launched a rail freight ser-
vice between China and London. This is the first direct rail link be-
tween China and Great Britain. The route of the service will traverse
from Beijing, across Asia and Europe, before terminating in London.
The route is actually not new at all. It is part of the old Silk Road,
which commenced in 200 BC, through which Chinese silk caravans
carried wears to Europe and Africa. The trail provided much wealth
and prestige for the Chinese Empire of the day.
Now, Beijing is aiming to resurrect this historic trade route by
using rail power.
The journey is as much an engineering challenge as a logistical
problem. Freight must swap trains along the way, as railway gaug-
es vary between the connecting countries. In its 18-day journey,
freight will span 7,456 miles of railways, crossing Kazakhstan, Rus-
sia, Belarus, Poland, Germany, Belgium, France and the UK.
The new route unlocks a new option for shippers. Currently,
the choice is two-fold. One, take an ocean-bound route, which, al-
though cheap, can be slow. Two, use an air carrier that is consider-
ably faster, but much more expensive.
A direct rail link between Beijing and Western Europe enables
manufacturers to explore new means to lower transport costs.
The line may not provide a suitable alternative to all producers, but
canny negotiators can leverage the new market entrant to lower
prices of their established pathways by boat or plane.
GLOBAL FOCUS
Version 5.0 of the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) has
been released. GOTS is the worldwide recognized standard for the
processing of textiles made with 95 percent (label grade “organ-
ic”) or at least 70 percent (label grade “made with organic”) certi-
fied organic fibres. GOTS’ core provisions such as the minimum con-
tent of certified organic fibers and the general bans on the use of
toxic and harmful chemicals, conventional cotton, virgin polyester,
GMOs, substances derived from GMOs and nanotechnology have
been maintained. The criteria for the “additional fibre material” are
now stricter regarding the environmentally improved and certified
regenerated cellulosic fibres: The use of Viscose and Modal is now
restricted to 10% (25% for sportswear and socks). Lyocell may still
be used up to 30% because of its more sustainable manufacturing
processes.
For the first time GOTS will allow “Combined Products” such
as prams with textile fabrics, bassinets, car seats or furniture with
textile fabric upholstery to have certified and labelled fabric com-
ponents. Regarding the GOTS social criteria an explicit section on
Ethical Business Behaviour including a corruption ban was added,
based on the UN Global Compact Principles. The mandatory GOTS
Social Compliance Management System for the first time includes
guidance on the use of tools such as SAI Social Fingerprint™ to help
companies measure and improve their social performance. “Revi-
sion of GOTS always walks a fine line between strict and verifiable
criteria and the needs of the market. For example, version 5.0 in-
cludes the tightening of composition requirements with respect
to regenerated cellulosic fibres. On the other hand, the new pos-
sibility of combined products with fabric components certified to
GOTS helps include a range of products that could not carry the
GOTS label in the past. This helps to increase our contribution to
sustainable development.” says Rahul Bhajekar, GOTS Director
Standards Development and Quality Assurance. GOTS 5.0 is the
result of a year-long revision process with multi stakeholder input
which is repeated every three years. All relevant Stakeholders who
operate internationally with expertise in the fields of organic pro-
duction, textile colourants & chemicals, social criteria & industry,
NGOs and consumer interests were invited to participate. Invited
organizations included Greenpeace, Clean Clothes Campaign, Fair
Labour Association, FairWear Foundation, IFOAM, ILO, Transpar-
ency International, Social Accountability International (SAI) and
Textile Exchange. The list of all stakeholders and more about the
revision process can be found on GOTS website (http://www.glob-
al-standard.org/the-standard/revision-procedure.html).
GOTS Version 5.0, the Manual for Implementation Version 5.0,
a list of relevant changes and further information regarding GOTS
can be found on http://www.global-standard.org.
Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) - New version 5.0 released:
Stricter criteria for regenerated fibres & category “Combined Products” added
NEWS
13. 13March 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com
Introduction:
“Continuous Innovation” is a key element in getting success in
Technical textile industry. One needs to be innovative in produc-
tion, process & even in marketing strategies.
With the continuous advancement in various fields like health-
care and hygiene, sports, protective textiles, and growing require-
ments from many industries, the existing fibers is being modified
and new fibers are being developed to meet specific and stringent
requirements of the technical applications. The fiber and polymer
technologists have been continuously innovating new fibres to
meet growing demands of high performance and functional tex-
tiles. The functional property requirement varies from sector to
sector e.g. it is a fibre with high tenacity, high modulus and less
weight for the application of filtration and sports textiles. In the
case of medical and hygiene products, it should be free from toxic
and biodegradable. For protective textiles, fibers should be high
resistance to corrosive chemicals and high resistance to elevated
temperatures, flames and very high hydrophilic.
In fact, in case of apparels, the global trend is shifting from
occasion specific clothing to function based clothing where fabric
properties play major role. Some of the trends like temperature
sensitive& IT embedded technical garments will be gaining more
importance in coming future. Increasing awareness on climatic
changes like global warming, eco-friendly concept & enormous
industrial growth will be leading to more focus on function based
clothing than need specific clothing. These clothing consist of fi-
bres with inherent functional properties. Technological advance-
ment plays important role in development of high performance
and specialty fibres which differ ac-
cording to their specific properties
& end-uses.
Major High Performance Fibres:
Glass Fibre: Glass fiber is the
oldest and most familiar, high-per-
formance fibre. Fibres have been
manufactured from glass since the
1930s. Although early versions had
high-strength, they were relatively
inflexible and not suitable for sever-
al textile applications. Today’s glass
fibres offer a much wider range of
properties and can be found in many
end uses, such as insulation, fire-re-
sistant, and reinforcing materials for
composites.
Carbon Fiber: Carbon fiber, al-
ternatively graphite fiber, carbon
graphite or CF, is a material consist-
ing of fibers about 5–10 μm in diameter and composed mostly of
carbon atoms. Carbon fibre may also be engineered for strength.
Carbon fibre variants differ in flexibility, electrical conductivity,
thermal and chemical resistance. Car-
bon fibre found its applications in au-
tomobile, aircraft, sport equipment
and carbon electrode etc.
Aramid Fiber: Aramid fiber is the
best known of the high-performance,
synthetic, organic fibres. Closely
related to polyamides, aramids are
derived from aromatic acids and
amines. The high impact resistance
of the para-aramids makes them
popular for ‘bullet-proof’ body armour. For many less demanding
applications, aramids may be blended with other fibres.
PBI (Polybenzimidazole): PBI (polybenzimidazole) is another
fibre that takes advantage of the high stability of conjugated aro-
matic structures to produce high thermal resistance. The ladder-
like structure of the polymer further increases the thermal stability.
PBI is noted for its high cost, due to high raw material costs and a
demanding manufacturing process. The high degree of conjugation
in the polymer structure imparts an orange colour that cannot be
removed by bleaching. When converted into fabric, it yields a soft
hand with good moisture regain.
PBI may be blended with aramid
or other fibres to reduce cost and
increase fabric strength.
PBO (polyphenylenebenzo-
bisoxazole) and PI (polyimide) are
two other high- temperature re-
sistant fibres based on repeating
aromatic structures. Both are re-
cent additions to the market. PBO
exhibits very good tensile strength and high modulus, which are
useful in reinforcing applications. Polyimide’s temperature resist-
ance and irregular cross-section make it a good candidate for hot
gas filtration applications.
PPS (polyphenylene sulfide) exhibits moderate thermal stabil-
ity but excellent chemical and fire resistance. It is used in a variety
of filtration and other industrial applications.
Melamine Fiber: Melamine fiber is primarily known for its in-
herent thermal resistance and outstanding heat-blocking capability
in direct flame applications. This high stability is due to the cross-
linked nature of the polymer and the low thermal conductivity of
melamine resin. In comparison with other high-performance fibers,
melamine fibres offer excellent value for products designed for
direct flame contact and elevated temperature exposures. More-
over, the dielectric properties, cross-section shape and distribu-
tion make it ideal for high- temperature filtration applications. It is
Innovative fibres/Yarns for Technical Textile Sector!
Hot Gas Filtration
Bullet Proof Jacket
Carbon Fiber
Glass Fiber
Mr.Avinash Mayekar
MD & CEO
Suvin Advisors Pvt Ltd
+919322906199
www.suvinindia.com
COVER STORY
14. 14 March 2017www.textilevaluechain.com
sometimes blended with aramid or other high-performance fibres
to increase final fabric strength.
Fluoropolymer (PTFE, polytetrafluoroethylene) offers ex-
tremely high chemical resistance, coupled with good thermal sta-
bility. It also has an extremely low coefficient of friction, which can
be either an advantage or disadvantage, depending on the use.
HDPE (high-density polyethylene) can be extruded using spe-
cial technology to produce very high molecular orientation. The re-
sulting fibre combines high strength, high chemical resistance and
good wear properties with light weight, making it highly desirable
for applications ranging from cut-proof protective gear to marine
ropes. Since it is lighter than water, ropes made of HDPE float. Its
primary drawback is its low softening and melting temperature.
Ceramic Fiber: High-temperature insulation wool (HTIW),
known as ceramic fiber wool until the 1990s, is one of several types
of synthetic mineral wool, generally defined as those resistant to
temperatures above 1000°C. The first variety, aluminium silicate fi-
bre, developed in the 1950s, was referred to as refractory ceramic
fibre. Applications envisaged are in gas turbines, both aeronautical
and ground-based, heat exchangers, first containment walls for fu-
sion reactors, as well as uses for which no matrix is necessary such
as candle filters for high temperature gas filtration. Alumina and
silicon carbide bulk ceramics are widely used for their high stiffness
and good high temperature mechanical properties in air; however,
they are generally weak due to the presence of critically sized de-
fects.
Chemically Resistant Fibers: Chemically resistant organic poly-
meric fibres include those which are designed to resist chemical
attack for acceptable periods during their service lives at both am-
bient and elevated temperatures. As a consequence of their inert
structures they may also be flame resistant and so address markets
where that property is also desirable.
Fluorinated fibres: PTFE, PVF, PVDF and FEP (ARH) and Chlorin-
ated fibres: PVDC (ARH) are Chemically resistant fibers.
Thermally Resistant Fibers: Thermally resistant organic poly-
meric fibres include those that resist thermal degradation and
some degree of chemical attack, notably oxidation, for acceptable
periods during their service lives. Thermosets (HE and HS), Mela-
mine–formaldehyde fibres, Basofil (BASF) (HE) are Thermally re-
sistant fibres.
Specialty Fibres:
Different categories of specializedfibres available in market like
Modal, Tencel, Coolmax, Cuproammonium Rayon, Kermel®, Ther-
moCool, Recron®, Bamboo, Linen, Acrylic& many more. .
Tencel: Fully degradable Tencelfibre manufactured from wood
pulp is soft as silk, strong as polyester, cool as linen, warm as wool
and as absorbent as cotton. Not only is Tencel environmentally
friendly, but also is has been designed to be a lovely and wearable
fiber. Modal is a semi synthetic cellulose & it is used alone or blend-
ed with other fibres. It offers soft hand-feel, good drapebility and
comfort while wearing. It has good moisture regain and air perme-
ability which is often considered better than cotton fabric; hence it
is used in in household items such as pajamas, towels, bathrobes,
under garments and bed sheets. It is a good material for exercise
clothing and health suit, which can serve to benefit physiology cir-
culation and health of the body.
Coolmax: A trademark of Invista, is specially-engineered poly-
ester fibre to improve “breathability” compared to natural fibres
like cotton. The series of closely spaced channels creates capillary
action that wicks moisture through the core and out to a wider area
on the surface of the fabric which increases evaporation & now
often woven with other materials like cotton, wool, Spandex and
Tencel. Properties of CoolMax fabric allows wearer to keep sweat
free hence it is widely used in garments of mountain climbing gear,
casual sportswear, underwear & mattress covers. Other useful
properties include resistance to fading, shrinking and wrinkling.
Cuprammonium rayon is also a specialized fibre used in light-
weight summer dresses and blouses, sometimes in combination
with cotton to make textured fabrics with slubbed, uneven sur-
faces.
Several other fibres /yarns are widely used various industrial &
other functional applications like dope dyed polyester yarns used in
high visibility garments; Kermel® having properties of non- inflam-
mability, resistance to high temperature, resistance to abrasion,
resistance to chemicals majorly used in protective clothing
ThermoCool fibre/yarns specifically designed to optimize the
body’s natural thermo regulating capabilities through unique smart
fiber cross sections that provide evaporative cooling or thermo-
buffering according to the body’s needs. The garments produced
from spun ThermoCool keep a body warm when it is cold and cool
when it is hot leading to total body comfort and garment moisture
management majorly used in active sports-wear.
Stretch yarn which is manufactured from Elastane fibre is com-
monly termed as Lycra or Spandex. Its applications in industry are
mostly for body confirming garments such as sportswear, founda-
tion garments, jeans & intimate apparels which ensures a stable
shape during wearing. Other outstanding features beside shape
retention are higher elasticity, smooth & supple hand-feel, lower
moisture regain, resistance to pilling & resistance to abrasion. Glob-
al demand of stretch yarn will soar up in coming years because of
increasing population.
There are other products like Organic Cotton, Compact, CSY,
Melange, Slub, Multi count, Gassed, Mercerized, Fancy yarns, and
Polyester/Nylon Filament yarn like DTY, FDY and POY in knitting and
weaving also capturing huge markets.
Conclusion:
India has already positioned strongly in international market
in terms of convectional yarns, now time has come to understand
the importance of high performance and specialty fibres and yarns.
Umpteen numbers of different yarns are developed in international
market depending upon the properties, end-uses, different finish-
es, different textures and different looks.
Currently most of high performance and specialty fibres are be-
ing imported from outside in India and the demand for the same
COVER STORY
15. 15March 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com
will be rising in future in multifold with kind of growth in the sec-
tors like automobile, infrastructure, sports, health and hygiene &
many industries etc. Indian entrepreneurs can capitalize this great
untapped opportunity. Classic example is Recron®- a polyester
fibre brand of Reliance Industries. It is developed in wide ranges
depending on applications like Recron® Easy Stretch, Recron® FR (
Fire retardant), Recron® LP (low-pill tow and fibre), Recron® Super
bright, Recron® Dyefast, Recron® Micrelle, Recron® 3S, Recron®
Superdye& many more.
The fundamental strength of the Indian textile industry is its
strong production base of wide range of fibre / yarns from natural
fibres like cotton, jute, silk and wool to synthetic /man-made fibres
like polyester, viscose, nylon and acrylic. Now, time has come to
focus more on value added yarns which can fetch good margins
to Indian spinners than conventional yarns& thereafter taking the
final value addition in smart textiles.
COVER STORY
Fibre consumption is rising and in particular, filaments are find-
ing use in an increasing number of applications. For the short staple
spinning mill, the trend is also towards man-made fibres, but espe-
cially to blends with various fibre materials. Thus the functionality
of the end product can be specifically influenced.
Experts agree that with growing prosperity the fibre consump-
tion per head will continue to increase. Forecasts assume that by
2030 the worldwide fibre consumption will rise to approx. 115 mil-
liontons (PCI, 2015) (Fig. 1).
All raw materials will contribute to this growth, however fila-
ments more than staple fibres. The share of filaments will increase-
from 39 % in 2010 to 49 % in 2030.
New applications, particularly in the finer yarn count range,
willcontribute to this. Filaments have good functional properties-
for textile as well as technical applications. The development is
also driven by the growing share of knitted fabric applications with
icreasingly finer gauge. Notably with fine yarn counts, filaments are
particularly economic.
Despite this development, the consumption of short staple
fibres will rise to around 58 million tons (Fig. 2).
In the short staple spinning mill, the share of cotton will
decrease from 54 % in 2010 to 48 % in 2030. The absolute
consumption will grow slightly from 25 million tons in 2010 to 28
million tons in 2030 (Fig. 3).
Around half the fibres will be processed in the it pure form.
Theot her hal fwill bespun to blended yarns. The blends from cot-
ton with polyester dominate the blended yarns with almost 50 %.
The blend in go fibres is made for two important reasons.
One is that polyester is a cost-effective fibre and the raw material
price is an important parameter for the whole yarn costs. The oth-
er is tha tthe yarn characteristics can be specifically influenced by
blends (seealso Th. Weide, 2014, „Rieter Manual of Spinning“ Vol-
ume 7, Chapter 4).
These two reasons, costs and function, as well as the limited
grow the potential of cotton, mean that the share of blends will-
continue to increase.
Looking at the use of the yarns, cotton dominates the under-
wear sector. Viscose is also used as 100 % raw material in all applica-
tions.
With technical textiles, 100 % polyester or its blends dominate.
With outer wear, polyester dominat esespecially in blends with cot-
ton and viscose as is similarly the case with home textiles (Fig. 4).
With the increasing use of man-made fibres, new questions
arise for the short staple spinning mill. The Rieter Manual of Spin-
ning Volume 7 deals comprehensively with the technological ques-
tions (Fig. 5). To manufacture a yarn from different fibre types,
the spinning mill has to fulfil two requirements: produce the right
blend ratio and mix the two fibre types well. A good and evenblend
is important for a uniform distribution of the fibres in the yarn
diameter and on the running length of the thread. This, so that
at every point in the yarn the blended fibre types appear in the-
same ratio. The fibre there fore has the samecharacteristics, such
as strength and dyeing capacity, at every point.
Sustainable trend for man-made fibres
16. 16 March 2017www.textilevaluechain.com
FT6E and FT7E: leading-edge roving frame
technology
Introduction
Few machines in a modern spinning mill are as critical as the
roving frame. Building a solid and reliable roving frame is not an
easy task and yet again it is absolutely necessary for the spinner as
this machine can feed, depending on the count being produced,
thousands of spindles at the spinning frames.
Marzoli, the only European manufacturer of the full line of
machines for spinning of short staple fibers with over 150 roving
frames being sold every year worldwide, is the ideal referent for
whoever wants to choose the best technology. Its FT6E and FT7E
represent a state-of-the-art solution, yielding the best results for ef-
ficiency, reliability and quality. The article aims at presenting from a
technical and technological point of view these machines.
Drive system
The FT6E and FT7E are driv-
en by independent drives for
the drafting system, the flyers,
the spindles and the bobbin rail.
Every drive is coordinated by
the central CPU which ensures
perfect synchronization of all
the movements involved in
bobbin formation.
The spindles drive is a group
drive where motion is transmit-
ted through toothed belts. In
traditional machines spindles
are moved by one motor which,
through a long shaft, transmits motion to bevel gears which drive
pulleys that drive belts which ultimately make spindles rotate. A
group drive allows to substantially simplify this transmission sys-
tem. The drive comprises several motors, each one driving a limited
number of spindles. Each motor, through a pulley, drives toothed
belts which transmit motion directly to the spindles. Shafts, gear
boxes and bevel gears are eliminated. Therefore it is possible to:
ƒ reduce maintenance costs: fewer transmission components
are needed and lubrication is no longer required;
ƒ reduce noise;
ƒ reduce vibrations: lower mechanical transmission entails low-
er wear of transmission components and therefore lower vi-
brations. This enables the machine to work at higher speeds;
ƒ increase transmission efficiency: transmission system com-
prises only a pulley and toothed belts: no shafts, no bevel
gears are included. This allows to reduce energy consump-
tion.
Drafting system
Marzoli roving frames can be equipped with a 3-over-3 or
4-over-4 top-of-the-class drafting system. There are two options
for the cylinder diameters: the standard solution has a diameter of
32mm; however, in case there is a high percentage of short fibers in
the processed material, cylinders with a diameter of 27mm can be
used to reduce the gauge between nipping points. This guarantees
a better control of short fibers during draft.
Marzoli drafting system can also rely on highly efficient cleaners
for both top rollers and bottom drafting cylinders. For top rollers
there are two options: rollers with rubber fins and revolving felt
belts. For the bottom cylinders there are rubber scrapers. These
solutions guarantee that at every turn both top rollers and bottom
cylinders are always cleaned. This, along with the high quality of
each and every component, entails the perfect control of fibers
during draft and top quality of the roving.
False twist area
As bobbins on
modern roving
frames are arranged
in two rows, rovings
can have different
angles at the deliv-
ery of the drafting
system and at the
entrance of the fly-
ers’ top. It has been
argued that these
different angles can entail differences in the spinning triangle at
draft delivery and different tensions of the rovings thereby causing
an uneven take up of twist and variations in roving count.
On Marzoli machines all rovings lay parallel to one another:
they have the same angle at the delivery of the drafting system and
at the flyers’ entrance for both the front row and the back row of
bobbins.
Individual sensors ensure that each and every roving break is
properly detected and the machine securely stopped, even in case
of roving overlap around the cylinder/top roller. On the other hand,
if dust passed in front of the sensors the machine would not stop, it
would continue to run. Individual sensors also make suction not re-
quired. This, along with the IE3 motors and an overall design meant
to minimize energy consumption, allows to save up to 4 Kwh.
Roving tension is kept constant within a pre-set range through
sensors that constantly monitor roving’s fluctuations between the
delivery of the drafting system and the flyer’s top and adjust the
speed of the spindles accordingly. These sensors play an important
role in ensuring that there are no false drafts in the roving and that
roving breaks are kept to a minimum.
Winding area
It is argued that to increase productivity and lower investment
costs, spindlage and dimension of bobbins should be increased.
This is only partially true: a higher number of spindles per machine
COVER STORY
17. 17March 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com
reduces the cost of
the investment as the
total required num-
ber of spindles can be
reached with fewer
machines. From a unit
cost (cost per spindle)
point of view, there is
an economic advan-
tage that stems from
the amortization of the
cost of the head and
rear stocks on a higher
number of spindles per
machine. However, the higher the number of spindles, the smaller
the benefit stemming from a further increase in machine’s length.
Machines exceeding a certain number of spindles also entail higher
costs for electronics and drafting drive. Last but not least a higher
number of spindles per machine causes a reduction in efficiency.
The FT6E (110mm gauge) can reach 224 spindles and produce
bobbins of 16” x 6”. The FT7E (130mm gauge) has a spindlage up to
168 spindles and can produce packages of 16” x 7”. These numbers
represent the limit in terms of number of spindles and dimensions
of bobbins to maintain top efficiency standards. A higher number
of spindles per machine would not give an additional benefit to the
spinner as the decrease in machine efficiency would not be coun-
terbalanced by the reduction in the average cost per spindle.
The flyers installed on Marzoli’s roving frames are made of ultra-
light alloy and are dynamically balanced so that even when working
at high speeds, vibrations are kept to a minimum. Marzoli’s roving
frames can reach up to 1,500 rpm mechanically and the roving can
be wound on standard tubes, with a diameter of 53.5 mm, or on
thinner tubes , with a diameter of 48mm, to have a further slight
increase in bobbin capacity.
The creel
The creel is equipped with hexagonal aluminum rollers to pre-
vent false drafts, a very important aspect especially when working
with combed slivers. Optic sensors positioned between the roll-
ers ensure that in case of sliver break the machine is immediately
stopped. Marzoli roving frames can be fed with cans with a diam-
eter of up to 24” which allow to reduce machine stops and increase
its efficiency.
Doffing
One of the most crucial aspects on modern roving frames is au-
tomation especially on doffing since doff is costly, frequent, has a
quite-important negative influence on efficiency (especially on long
roving frames) and, if done manually, can damage the roving bob-
bins.
Nowadays several options for automatic doffing are available.
One of the simplest, most reliable and fastest, automatic doffing
systems is the
one that Marzoli
has implemented,
tested and refined
in the last twenty
years. With this so-
lution in less than
3 minutes full bob-
bins are replaced
with empty tubes
and the machine is
restarted. During
the new doffing cycle, the full bobbins are forwarded to the trans-
port system which carries the packages to the spinning frames.
Also a semi automatic doffing option of the machine is avail-
able. With this version ergonomics has been substantially improved
if compared to standard manual-doffing machines. After bobbin
formation is completed, the bobbin rail lowers and tilts out for an
easy bobbin collection. Furthermore, there is a parking rail in front
of the bobbin rail with empty tubes so that substitution of full bob-
bins with empty tubes is as easy as possible.
With the release of the FT6E and FT7E Marzoli offers also a third
option: the roving frame with the pre-arrangement for automatic-
doffing upgrade. During doffing the bobbin rail lowers and slides
out horizontally, just like the fully-automatic model. Besides per-
mitting an easy collection of the full bobbins, this solution allows
an easy and cost efficient upgrade of the machine to the fully-au-
tomatic version.
Energy efficiency
To succeed in the highly competitive and globalized sector spin-
ners must minimize production costs of whom energy consump-
tion represents an important component.
Marzoli roving frames represent an outstanding machine from
the energy consumption point of view. This machine is the only one
available on the market that does not need suction. In fact thanks
to the individual sensors installed as standard any roving break can
be promptly identified. No suction is required to capture the bro-
ken roving and make it pass in front of the photocell.
This, along with the IE3 premium efficiency motors, the light
weight components (e.g. the bobbin rail in aluminum) and an
overall design meant to minimize friction and transmission ineffi-
ciencies, entails an energy saving of over 4 Kwh for every hour of
operation.
COVER STORY
18. 18 March 2017www.textilevaluechain.com
Do you have water Balance sheet of
your factory??
We are back, as promised, to take you on further into the world
of Textile industry. As we said last time, “Textile industry is not only
about the final product or material, it goes beyond the obvious.”
Every minute thing on the final product requires special skillsets.
No one section is more important than the other. They all are equal-
ly very important.
In the last edition, we focused on the different fibres, manu-
facturers, and spinning techniques. In this edition, we will look in
details on processes like weaving, knitting, processing, and gar-
menting.
Weaving is about how the threads are interlocked to form the
basis of a fabric or a cloth. The characteristics of the cloth are very
much dependent on the ways these threads are interlocked. Weav-
ing can be defined as the repetition of the following three actions,
also known as the primary motion of the loom:
1. Shedding: where the ends are separated by raising or lower-
ing heald frames to form a clear space where the pick can pass.
2. Picking: where the weft or pick is propelled across the loom
by hand, an air-jet, a rapier, or a shuttle
3. Beating-up or battening: where the weft is pushed up against
the fell of the cloth by the reed.
The secondary motions of the loom are:
1. Let off Motion: where the warp is let off the warp beam at a
regulated speed to make the filling even, filling here refers to the
filling between the threads, and of the required design.
2. Take up Motion: Takes up the woven fabric in a regulated
manner so that the density of filling is maintained.
The tertiary motions of the loom are two stop motions, wrap
stop motion and weft stop motion. These motions are important
to stop in the loom in the event of the thread break.
Let us know a little about the weavers. There are a variety of
them.
1. Handloom weavers: We all have heard of handloom material
and handloom artifacts. Every time there is an handloom exhibi-
tion, we all rush to get a few handcrafted things. Previously, it was
a male dominated job.
2. Power loom infection: As the name suggests, machines are
used in this technique to do everything. Girls and young women
used to take care of these machines and operated them for weav-
ing purpose.
Now let us move on to knitting. Knitting is about putting those
yarns together to create a design. It creates multiple loops in yarns
called stitches, in a line or a tube. It has multiple active stitches on
the needle at a time. If you have a look at the knitted fabric, there
are a multiple loops in consecutive rows. Not only loops in a row
but also the rows are interlocked. Knitting can be done by hand or
machines.
Hand knitting is the most conventional method of knitting.
There are many hundreds of different knitting stitches used by
hand knitters. A piece of hand knitting begins with the process of
casting on, which involves the initial creation of the stitches on the
needle.
Mega knitting is a term recently coined and relates to the use of
knitting needles greater than or equal to half an inch in diameter.
Mega knitting uses the same stitches and techniques as con-
ventional knitting, except that hooks are carved into the ends of
the needles. The hooked needles greatly enhance control of the
work, catching the stitches and preventing them from slipping off.
It was the development of the knitting machine that introduced
hooked needles and enabled faultless, automated knitting.
Let us move on to the textile processing. Textile processing or
manufacturing is based on converting yarn to fabric or fabric to
yarn. These are then dyed and/or printed and fabricated into the
final product. There are various types of processing techniques.
These techniques differ from the base material to material.
Once all the processes discusses in these two articles, process-
ing, spinning, weaving or knitting are done, the finishing and mar-
keting take place. Finishing is the finishing of the final product that
includes, checking the quality, damage, packaging, tagging, etc.
Marketing is where the product is marketed, a need is created and
the product is sold.
The world of Textile
COVER STORY
This article focuses on importance of water audits, commercial
impact of the same on profitable manufacturing and measures on
reducing the water footprint on various types of industries. The wa-
ter balance sheet of any industry gives you insight of current situa-
tion and roadmap for future water conservation action plan.
As the financial year end is close by, every business is busy in
financial closure. But have you ever made your water resource bal-
ance sheet? It’s high time for the same too.
Water is a precious natural national resource with almost fixed
quantum of availability. With continuous growth in country’s pop-
ulation, per capita availability of utilizable water is going down,
whereas with ever-rising standard of living of people, all around
rapid industrialization and urbanization, demand of fresh water is
going up continuously. Unabated discharge of industrial effluents
into water bodies is further aggravating the situation of scarcity of
water of Acceptable quality. In spite of the fact that fresh water is
rapidly becoming scarce it is continued to be used wastefully.
Rapid industrialization and urbanization coupled with continu-
ous decline in per capita water availability is putting a lot of pres-
Ms.Chitralekha Vaidya
CEO, Varshasookt Consultants
varshasookt@gmail.com
By TVC Team
19. 19March 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com
sure on the available water resources in the country. Hence, it is
important to understand the dynamics behind water audit and its
impact on profitability of production.
What Is Water Used For?
Water is used by commercial, institutional and industrial cus-
tomers for five primary purposes:
y Indoor domestic use (rest rooms, kitchens, and laundries)
y cooling and heating
y landscape irrigation
y processing of materials
y As an ingredient
Examples of water uses in commercial and institutional facilities
y Indoor (Domestic) Water
Kitchens, cafeterias, staff rooms –
ƒ Faucets , Distilled/drinking water, Ice machines , Dishwashers
ƒ Garbage disposals , Food preparation , Restrooms and show-
ers , Faucets , Toilets and urinals , Showers
Laundry - washing machines
Sanitation
ƒ Facility cleaning , Sterilization/autoclaves , Equipment wash-
ing , Dust control , Container washing
Processes – photographic and x-ray processing, silk screening,
dry cleaning , printing , etc.
y Cooling and Heating
ƒ Cooling towers/evaporative , coolers Boilers and steam sys-
tems Once-through cooling , Air conditioners , Air compres-
sors , Hydraulic equipment , Degreasers ,Rectifiers ,Vacuum
pumps , Outdoor Water Use , Irrigation , Pools and spas ,Dec-
orative water features
While establishing any new industry, water and energy are 2
most important factors considered from any factory and process-
ing industry operation point of view. And, water audits can play
very important role in the assessment. Water audits are effective
methods to account for all water usage within a facility in order
to identify opportunities to improve water use efficiency. Benefits
from implementation of water audit may include lower utility costs,
energy savings, and reduced process costs.
Water put in the system
water used in processes,
activities
Unaccounted water
y Water For drinking
y Water for cleaning
y Water as raw material in
process
y Effluent generated
y domestic wastewater Gen-
erated
y Leakage from reservoirs
y Leakage from pipe net-
works
y Leakage from Taps
y Evaporation Losses
What is Water Conservation?
Water conservation, also known as water use efficiency, is an
integral part of water supply planning and water resource manage-
ment. Water conservation is defined as the beneficial reduction
in water use, waste, and loss. Water conservation is becoming a
viable alternative and complement to developing new water sup-
plies. While short-term water restrictions imposed during a water
shortage can temporarily relieve pressure on water sources, lasting
water conservation involves a combination of retrofits, new water
saving appliances, maintenance of infrastructure, and a collective
water conservation ethic focused on resource use, allocation, and
protection.
What is water audit?
A water audit is an on-site survey and assessment of water-us-
ing hardware, fixtures, equipment, landscaping, and management
practices to determine the efficiency of water use and to develop
recommendations for improving water-use efficiency. In simple
words, a water audit is a systematic review of a site that identifies
the quantities and characteristics of all the water uses. The site may
vary from a public water utility, facility (institutional or commercial
properties like malls, office, schools etc.) or a household. The over-
all objective of conducting a water audit is to identify opportunities
to make system or building water use more efficient.
Facility water audits include –
ƒ accurate measurement of all water entering the facility
ƒ the inventory and calculation of all on-site water uses and any
unused water sources or waste streams that may be available
ƒ calculation of water related costs
ƒ And identification of potential water efficiency measures.
ƒ The information from the water audit forms the basis for a
comprehensive conservation program to implement specific
water saving measures throughout the facility. The conserva-
tion program may consist of one or more projects in different
areas of the facility.
Estimation of Wastewater Generation action plan to reduce
the generation
It is difficult to assess wastewater generation from industries
on the basis of average generation of wastewater per product unit,
mainly due to large variations in volume of wastewater generation
per product unit. However owing to various constraints, present
estimation of industrial wastewater is based on average generation
of wastewater per unit product.
The volume of wastewater and concentration of various pol-
lutants in industrial discharge vary depending on manufacturing
processes and other factors such as housekeeping, reuse, technol-
ogy, etc. Even for a given manufacturing process, the amount of
wastewater generation depends on several factors, for instance:
a) Housekeeping practices - Housekeeping practices refer to
simple measures such as arresting leaks from pipes, stopping of un-
necessary overflows from the vessels, improving material handling
procedures to reduce losses. Poor housekeeping results in signifi-
cant generation of wastewater.
B) Extent of process control - Process control includes setting
up of process parameters to optimum levels leading to best possi-
ble yields and minimum wastage of water. Product quality require-
ments refer to commercial specifications, which may vary depend-
ing on market.
c) Product quality – Product quality requirements including
packaging - Achieving better quality generally require additional
processing and improved raw materials and thus may generate
more wastes.
d) Management systems initiatives - The management sys-
tems include entire sequence of raw material processing, technol-
ogy and production of finished product.
COVER STORY
20. 20 March 2017www.textilevaluechain.com
The emphasis on curtailing wastage in handling and improve-
ment in operation processes through better management can lead
to minimization of wastes.
The results from water audits should be used for leak detection,
minimization of wastewater generated, implementation of water
conservation plans such as Rainwater harvesting and watershed
management, wastewater recycling, zero liquid discharge policy
and so on.
Selection of Right kind of technology for wastewater Treatment
Reuse:-
It is very important to select right kind of technology for waste-
water processing. Generally emphasis is given only on capital cost
and operation maintenance, recurring costs are overlooked. Hence,
it is important to answer following questions before narrowing
down on choice of technology.
Need for implementation of long term sustainable measures like
Rainwater Harvesting
India has enough rainwater available throughout the year. It is
question of utilizing the same. As the rainwater is purest source of
fresh water, it is important to have long term vision about business
sustainability and not just short term vision of payback criteria. As
availability of water can largely hamper the production, it must be
considered while investing in other short term options like purchas-
ing water from outside temporary resources.
Small Industry Wise Tips
Hospitals
ƒ Bathroom fixture replace-
ment
ƒ Cooling tower efficiency ret-
rofits
ƒ Laundry equipment and pro-
cess changes
ƒ Condensate return systems
for sterilizers
ƒ Conversion from x-rays to
digital imaging
Hotels and Motels
ƒ Bathroom fixture replace-
ment
ƒ Laundry equipment and pro-
cess changes
ƒ Guest conservation aware-
ness programs to promote
less frequent linen exchang-
es to reduce laundry
Schools
ƒ Bathroom fixture replace-
ment
ƒ Cooling tower efficiency ret-
rofits
ƒ Irrigation efficiency meas-
ures such as weather- or
moisture-based irrigation
controllers
Restaurants
ƒ Water efficiency training and
information for kitchen staff
ƒ Use air-cooled equipment
such as icemakers
ƒ Bathroom fixture replace-
ment
ƒ Water efficient appliances
and best management prac-
tices during their use
It is a typical mindset of the industry that profits are generally
made by not treating wastewater properly and hence saving on
the treatment cost. But as the “polluters pay” policy is becoming
effective day by day, there is requirement of paradigm shift from
mindset of “profit in pollution” to “profit from water recovery” and
“resource recovery from waste”.
COVER STORY
Flamboyant Brazilian-born designer Daniella Helayelcollabo-
rates with Koovsfor The Princess Collection.A favourite of Kate –
Duchess of Cambridge, her designs havealso been worn by A-List
female celebrities from Madonna and Kylie to JLo and Ellie Gould-
ing, and Keira Knightly to Scarlett Johansson and Eva Mendes, all
loving her signature style - cut to feel sexy, fit and flatter.
Inspired by Pippa Middleton’s much anticipated wedding and
launching in May to coincide with the summer party season, the
collection will be effortlessly elegant with a young fun twist and
offer seamless day to evening wear - perfect for any occasion. Dan-
iella, was already dressing A-List stars when she was catapulted to
global status when Kate Middleton chose to wear her iconic sap-
phire blue silk jersey dress to announce her engagement to Prince
William in 2010.
Daniella’sPrincess Collection for Koovs will build on her state-
ment fit-and-flare jersey, with bright fun and flamboyant prints,
exciting fabrics and the latest young colours and styles. Featuring
baby pink, ‘Kiss Me’ prints, metallics, off the shoulder ruffles and
halter necks in every length from mini to maxi, the collection will
offer something for every woman.
Having returned to fashion last year with her new label
Dhela,this is her first collaboration with Koovs specifically foryoung
style-conscious women in India. Daniella Helayel says: “I started de-
signing to make clothes that made women feel sexy and confident
– clothes that could move seamlessly from daywear to evening,
that looked great and that lasted.I believe that feeling gorgeous,
sophisticated and confident should be accessible to every woman.”
Mary Turner, CEO Koovs, says: “The Duchess and Pippa have
become global style icons and what they wear is watched all over
the world. We are delighted to take that inspiration with our first
Princess Collection for India and we will beexcited to reveal all in
May – so watch this space.”
Kate Middleton and A-List designer-favourite Daniella Helayel
collaborates with Koovs for The Princess Collection
NEWS
21. 21March 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com
The wheel of retailing keeps on rotating but not necessarily in
the same place. From the first retail concept i.e. Barter system to
the latest lifestyle retail concept, retailing of apparelhas changed
significantly with time. Retailers were basically purchasing agents
for the residents of a specific locality or area, reflecting closely
those customers’ life-styles, brand preferences, shopping hours
etc. Indian Apparel is the largest segment of the Indian Textile and
Clothing Industry (ITC); accounts 60-65% of the total Industry. Fur-
thermore, it is one of the largest sources of foreign exchange flow
into the country. As per the data published by Ministry of Textiles,
in its annual report 2015-16, India is ranked as 6th largest exporter
of apparel in the world after China, Bangladesh, Vietnam, Germany
and Italy (source: care ratings). Apparel marketof Jammu is flour-
ishing day by day and so are the demands of the customers. To in-
crease my appetite for knowledge for “what customers want”, a
study was conducted in Jammu by interacting with the customers.
This study is qualitative in nature. The population frame is the cus-
tomers of the lifestyle retail store of Jammu in India. The data were
collected through focus group interviews. 10 focus group inter-
views were conducted at thedifferent place across Jammu region.
Out of 10 focus group interviews, 6 focus groups were females and
4 were that of males. Age of the females varies from 19 years to
45 whereas the age of the males varies from 20-30. Each group
comprised of 5-7 homogeneous participants. The focus group in-
terviews were unstructured and moderator started the discussion
by commenting on the topic to which the participants reacted.
Moderator first introduced herself to the participants and the ob-
jective of conducting theinterview was stated to them. The time
frame of each focus-group interview was up to 35-45 minutes. The
moderator intervened only when there was silence in the group so
that the discussion can be carried on. No more than 10 questions
were asked by the moderator. All the interviews were conducted
in person and discussions were audio-recorded. The following is
atranscription of a focused group interview:
“Good Morning and welcome to our session. In order to find
out factors that influence the customers ‘choice of apparellifestyle
retail store, I invite all of you to participate in this session. I want
to know what are your preferences for apparel stores and which
factors impact your choice of apparel store. I will be having discus-
sions like this with several groups of both the gender. You were
selected on the basis of purposeful. There are no right and wrong
answers but somewhat different points of view. Feel free to share
your point of view even if it differs from what others have said.
I will be tape recording the session so that all valuable com-
ments don’t get missed. Participants often share very useful things
in these discussions and I may not be able to pen down all the im-
portant points. Only one person will speak at a point and there is no
need to get aggressive, all of you will be given enough time to ex-
press your point of views. You don’t have to agree with what oth-
ers are saying, but you must listen patiently as others share their
views. I will start with the person sitting on the right. First of all give
a brief introduction of yourself, your name, age, gender, area, and
income. Introduce yourself one by one and as the introduction is
done, we will start with the discussion. I as a moderator will guide
you at the time of requirement. I won’t interfere much. Now, you
can start the discussion.”
Ten focus groups interviews were conducted on the same top-
ic. These interviews were conducted for several days and enough
time was provided to each focus group so that all the participants
can speak. It takes more than one focus group on any one topic to
produce valid results – usually three or four. The focus group mod-
erator responsibly covered all the questions in thetime allotted.
The quality of the data obtained from an in-depth interview
or focus group is based upon the level of thought involved in the
development of the questions (Patton, 2002). There are six main
types of open-ended in-depth interview or focus groups questions:
(1) experience or behavior questions, (2) sensory questions, (3)
opinion or value questions, (4) knowledge questions, (5) feeling
questions, and (6) background or demographic questions (Patton,
2002). Experience or behavior questions are intended to get at an
interviewee’s actions, either past or present. In particular, a partici-
pant’s answers should reflect a direct observation that could have
been made by watching the participant. These kinds of questions
are often followed by sensory questions. This is a useful question-
ing technique as such questions focus on things that the inter-
viewee has actually experienced, and can help them to better recall
other experiences. Opinion or value questions are designed to elicit
interviewees’ knowledge of a specific phenomenon or experience
and provide useful insight into their goal. Knowledge questions
seek factual information from interviewees. Feeling questions are
intended to produce a narrative of an emotion from the partici-
pant.Background or demographic questions are useful for the char-
acterization of the people participating in the in-depth interview or
focus group (Patton, 2002).
Once the in-depth interview or focus group questions are
drafted, it is significant to make sure that they conform to a few
guidelines. First, the questions should be open-ended and neutral.
This means that the questions should neither make an assumption
about what the interviewee thinks about the topic nor should they
offer any clues as to what the interviewer hopes the interviewee
will say. Second, the questions should focus on one topic at a time.
The questions should not dichotomous. Third, your questions, as
well as the topic, should not be vague, there should be clarity in the
questions (Patton, 2002). The key to achieving this is to think care-
fully about the kind of information you anticipate from each ques-
tion in the in-depth interview question guide. With the question
wording finalized, the questions should be in a coherent order. The
interviewer needs to guide the participants through the questions.
The main questions that were asked were:
What kind of apparel stores do you prefer?; What are major
Jammu Apparel Market
COVER STORY
Dr. Hari Govind Mishra
Assistant Professor
School of Business
Faculty of Management
Shri Mata Vaishno Devi University, Katra, JK
22. 22 March 2017www.textilevaluechain.com
components that you consider before buying apparel?Are these
factors interlinked to each other?From which store do you often
shop?Why that particular store?Is there anything that you would
like to add? ”
These set of questions were mainly asked by the moderators.
We will come to know that enough data has been collected when
we stop hearing anything new anymore, i.e. the point of satura-
tion. The saturation of data occurs when repetition of data starts
to happen.
The study reveals that demographic factors of consumers do
influence apparel retail store choice. It was also observed that re-
tail store choice is a hierarchical process which not only depends
on demographic attributes but also on the current needs of a con-
sumer. Fashion consciousness and comfort seeking are the signifi-
cant predictors for apparel store choice decisions. Social factors,
family, brand conscious, thelocation of thestore and price are
significant predictors for lifestyle store choice decisions. All these
variable such as society, fashion, culture, uniqueness, family, brand
and price are the major lifestyle factors. We can say that customer’s
lifestyle is based on these factors and choose their lifestyle store on
the basis of these factors. It was also found that factors like situa-
tion specific and retail store attributes impact customers’ choice.
The overall results of this study show that apparel shoppers are
influenced by various factors in choosing a store. No single retail
factor seems to be dominant in meeting consumer needs/wants,
all the factors play anequivalent role in choosing a lifestyle retail
store. Consumer’s socio-economic, demographic and geographic
and personal characteristics have significant association with the
choice of retail store Consumers focus on factors like Brand avail-
ability, fashion, trend/style, price, variety of merchandise, comfort,
store location, social status, and hedonism or recreation and then
move into a particular store within the format where they can save
time, money and effort.
This study also provides valuable information to retailers in re-
lation to customersapparel store choice in Indian lifestyle goods
retailing. Understanding how preferences vary with consumer fac-
tors is a key element in developing successful retail marketing strat-
egies. It can be inferred that it is also possible to affect the orienta-
tions of the shoppers by offering modern retail formats.
These findings would enable retailers to develop an effective
marketing strategy to optimize the use of marketing and promo-
tional resources in meeting the needs of discerning target custom-
ers. With the intensified level of competition in today’s apparel
market, an increasing number of stores are currently facing difficul-
ties in operating profitability. These retailersneed to adjust market
communications and repositioning themselves to retain the exist-
ing and attracting potential customers.
India’s 62% of the population is in the working age group and
more than 54% is below the age of 25. The labour force in the com-
ing twenty year is estimated to decrease by 4% while that in India is
expected to increase by 32%. It could be a challenge for the Govern-
ment to provide jobs for such huge numbers.The Prime Minister’s
vision of Make in India is aimed at creating jobs for millions in the
coming years. This is supported by Skill India Mission which aims to
train 1 crore people by 2020 to cater to the new jobs being created.
There are a number of Training Providers and certifying agencies
conducting training/Skilling programmes of a vast variety in the
country. This also brings the need to standardise the skilling eco-
system so that all trainee certified skilled for a particular job role by
different agencies are considered at par.
Ministry of Skill Development Entrepreneurship aims to do
this through National Skills Qualification Frameworkwhich explains
the governing guidelines for all Skill Development course in the
Country.The Ministry of Finance, through its notification number
No. 8/6/2013-Invt.dated 27th December, 2013 has notified that
National Skills Qualification Framework (NSQF) will be applica-
ble since December 2013 and all other frameworks, including the
NVEQF (National Vocational Educational Qualification Framework)
released by the Ministry of HRD, cease to exist, and are superseded
by the NSQF. The Notification entitles NSQF compliant training/
educational programmes/courses to receive government funding
on a preferential basis since December 2013.
After the third anniversary date of the notification of the
NSQF,(December, 2016), Government funding would not be avail-
able for any training/ educational programme/ course which is not
NSQF-compliant and all government-funded training and educa-
tional institutions shall define eligibility criteria for admission to
various courses in terms of NSQF levels. The recruitment rules of
the Government of India and the public sector enterprises of the
central government shall also be amended to define eligibility crite-
ria for all positions in terms of NSQF levels. State Governments shall
be encouraged to amend their recruitment rules as well as those
of their public sector enterprises to define eligibility criteria for all
positions in terms of NSQF levels. After the fifth anniversary date
of the notification of the NSQF it shall be mandatory for all train-
ing/educational programmes/courses to be NSQF-compliant and all
training and educational institutions shall define eligibility criteria
for admission to various courses in terms of NSQF levels.
A register of all NSQF approved qualifications will be available
at www.nqr.gov.inThe institutions wishing to avail Government
funding for Skilling must align their courses to NSQF approved
qualifications. They may contact the respective awarding bodies
(SSCs/NCVT) for this. The details of Sector Skill Councils (SSCs) are
available at www.nsdcindia.org
The author is working with the Textile Sector Skill Council (TSC)
which is mandated to develop Skill Ecosystem for Textile Mill and
handloom Sector. Further details on TSC may be accessed at www.
texskill.in or writing to info@texskill.in
NSQF level compliance of Skill Development courses
Dr. Swapna Mishra (Director)
Textile Sector Skill Council (TSC)
COVER STORY
HR FOCUS
23. 23March 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com
UNITED NATIONS: India has ranked a lowly 131 among the 188
countries surveyed for human development, a new UN report
has said, bracketing the third-largest Asian economy alongside its
South Asian neighbours like Pakistan, Bhutan and Nepal.
India has made no improvement in its ranking over the previ-
ous year, despite the Human Development Report for 2015 noting
that foreign direct investment favours countries such as China and
India.
India’s Human Development Index rank in 2014 was also 131.
However, 63 per cent Indians were “satisfied” with their stand-
ard of living in 2014-15, the latest report found.
The report, released annually by the UN Development Pro-
gramme, said India’s rank of 131 puts it in the “medium human de-
velopment” bracket, which also includes nations like Bangladesh,
Bhutan, Pakistan, Kenya, Myanmar and Nepal.
India’s HDI rank value in 2015 stood at 0.624, which had in-
creased from 0.580 in 2010.
Its life expectancy at birth stood at 68.3 years in 2015 and the
Gross National Income (GNI) per capita $5,663, the report said.
On the perception of feeling safe 69 per cent answered “yes”,
while on freedom of choice, 72 per cent female responders an-
swered they were “satisfied” as compared to 78 per cent for male.
India’s score for overall life satisfaction was 4.3 on a scale of
1-10, according to the report.
On perceptions about government, 69 per cent said they had
trust in the national government for the 2014-15 period while 74 per
cent said they had confidence in the judicial system.
It lauded measures like the National Rural Employment Guaran-
tee Programme taken in India to generate employment.
“Creating jobs through a public works programme targeted at
poor people can reduce poverty through income generation, build
physical infra- structure and protect poor people against shocks.
The National Rural Employment Guarantee Programme in India and
the Rural Employment Opportunities for Public Assets Programme
in Bangladesh are prime examples.”
The report noted that increasing clean energy investments in
India by 1.5 per cent of GDP a year for 20 years will generate a net
increase of about 10 million jobs annually in the country, after fac-
toring in job losses from retrenchments in the fossil fuel industries.
The report launched in Stockholm yesterday found that al-
though the average human development improved significantly
since 1990, progress is uneven, with systemic discrimination against
women, indigenous peoples and ethnic minorities.
It said while many people have greater access to education,
health and sanitation, more focus needs to be paid to who has
been excluded and why.
“By eliminating deep, persistent, discriminatory social norms
and laws, and addressing the unequal access to political participa-
tion, which have hindered progress for so many, poverty can be
eradicated and a peaceful, just, and sustainable development can
be achieved for all,” said UNDP Administrator Helen Clark.
Titled Human Development for Everyone, the report authored
by the Director of the Human Development Report Office SelimJa-
han, said that one in three people worldwide continue to live at a
low level of human development.
Women and girls are systematically excluded by economic, po-
litical, social and cultural barriers, according to the report measured
by the Human Development Index - a ranking of countries based on
strides made with a peace-centric model of progress.
“Women tend to be poorer, earn less, and have fewer opportu-
nities in most aspects of life than men,” it said.
The report also points to “dangerous practices,” such as female
genital mutilation and forced marriage, which continue to hamper
the development of women and their inclusion in society.
In addition to women and girls, the report points to “patterns
of exclusion and lack of empowerment” of people in rural areas,
indigenous peoples, ethnic minorities, people with disabilities, mi-
grants and refugees, and members of the lesbian,gay, bisexual,
transgender and intersex community.
The report calls for far greater attention to empowering the
most marginalised in society, and recognises the importance of giv-
ing them greater voice in decision-making processes.
India, the third-largest Asian economy, ranked
131 on Human Development Index: UN
Protective works wear for workers working in cement industry
Prof (Dr) M.S.Parmar, Shweta Saxena and Vasundhara Verma
Northern India Textile Research Association,
Sector-23, Rajnagar, Ghaziabad-201002, U.P, India
The demand of cement requirement is increasing every year in
India. At present, the capacity of cement production in India is 390
million tones, which is expected to further increase due to govern-
ment’s push for large infrastructure projects. With the increase
in use of Portland cement in India, its adverse effect on health of
workers working in cement construction sites and manufacturing
industries has become a burning issue. Thousands of construction
workers are exposed to concrete every day without knowing its
harmful effect on their health. Cement is chemical and highly alka-
line in nature. At wet stage, the pH of cement is more than 12.9, has
the ability to create third degree burns. When the skin of worker,
come in regular contact of this wet concrete, it may get affected
and resulted dermatitis. Signs and symptoms of dermatitis can in-
clude itching, redness, swelling, blisters, scaling and other changes
HR FOCUS
TECHNICAL TEXTILE
24. 24 March 2017www.textilevaluechain.com
in the normal conditions of skin.
In India, workers are still not provided proper protective work
wear while working in cement related work especially during the
use of concrete. Therefore, to understand the performance re-
quirements on the fabric for cement workers protective clothing, a
survey was conducted by NITRA on DMRC, NDMC, PWD and private
builders. Workers of some cement manufacturing units were also
surveyed to gather information related to protective work wear. It
was found by survey that most of the agencies are not providing
suitable protective work wear to the workers. A few of the agencies
are providing cotton gloves, masks and reflective jackets, which are
not sufficient to protect them from cement dust and slurry. To pre-
vent cement dust, cement porters/workers generally wear multiple
layers of garments. But these layering of garments do not give full
proof prevention from cement dust. It was also reveled from the
survey that they were having good health before joining this trade.
But after joining this trade they began to show symptom of eyes
swelling, respiratory problems, skin burning etc.
Requirement Priority order Performance Purpose
Protection
1 Dustproof property To avoid cement dust contacting with
skin
2 Strength Abrasion resistance
including UV resistance
To resist the friction in particular
position
Comfort
3 Thermal-Moisture equilibrium* (Wa-
ter vapour or moisture permeability)
To maintain thermal moisture com-
fort
4 Appropriate weight and thickness To avoid additional load
Other 5 Easy-washing Quick drying Convenient for maintenance
6 Colour Fit for the working environment
7 Cost Work wear should have low cost
Synthetics grey fabrics production down upto 30%, yarn
price reversed
Because of workers shortage and decreased demand in fin-
ished fabrics, the production of polyester raw grey fabrics is re-
duced by almost 30% in Surat. Ahead of Holi festival, the exodus of
the workers has hit hard the powerloom and processing industries.
Sources said, out of 10 lakh workers employed in the textile sector,
over three lakh have moved out of the city due to assembly elec-
tion in Uttar Pradesh and the Holi-Dhuleti festival. There are over
1.5 lakh workers have yet to return. About 30% powerloom factories
are operating in one shift only. The weavers are also not interested
to increase the production. They are purchasing yarn as per the
requirement instead of stocking. Decreased number of orders and
crude oil pressure has reversed the synthetic yarn price. In the last
week of March, the crude oil prices remained close to 48 dollar. The
prices of raw materials of synthetic yarn PTA stood at Rs.50/kg and
MEG Rs.56/kg. Various denniers of synthetics yarn declined by Rs. 3
to 5 per Kg. Benchmark 80 crimp yarn prices came down to Rs.112/
kg from Rs.116/117 in the first week of March. 80/72 semidal Roto
yarn prices stood at Rs.113/114/kg. down by Rs. 4/kg. To stabilise the
prices, the sppinners has declared repeat sale in POY and texurised
yarn in second week of March, but now they are offering under ta-
ble discount to clear the stocks. The weavers are expecting that
reverse trend in yarn prices will remain countinue in April month
due to heavy decline in crude oil prices in the international market.
No excise duty on ‘sari’, a big relief for Surat textile traders
By considering the representation made by various local textile
and industrial organisation, the Central Board of Excise and Cus-
toms (CBEC) has issued a notification, by which it has kept ‘sari’ out
of the ambit of made-ups, which attract 2 per cent excise duty on
retail price above Rs1,000. Surat textile industries has welcomed
this decision as it is a big relief for the traders.
The CBEC issued a circular dated March 15, 2017 for classifying
‘sari’ under chapter 50,52 and 54 of the CETA Act, 1985 and not un-
der chapter 63, which attracts duty on the ready-made garments
and made-ups.
Earlier, textile traders were upset following the decision taken
by the Central Government to levy excise duty on articles of tex-
tiles, including ready-made garments and made-ups above Rs1,000.
Federation of Surat Textile Traders Association (FOSTTA) and
Southern Gujarat Chamber of Commerce and Industry (SGCCI)
strongly oppose the decision and has made a representation to the
central govt. for keeping ‘sari’ out of the ambit of the excise duty
levy on retail price of Rs1,000.
City’s textile group aided Uri martyrs’ kin
Surat textile group Madhu Priya Fashions Private Limited has
facilitated the family members of martyrs of Uri attack in JK. The
group has organised an event to celebrate its 15 years long business
journey in which it has given financial assistance of Rs. ten lakh to
47 family members of martyrs. Company’s chairman and director
Vinod Agarwal said, our soldiers are our real heroes. Last year, 18
soldiers martyred fighting the terrorists. He said, “ we thought of
inviting the family members of our brave soldiers martyred in our
celebration instead of any celebrities.” They decided to help the
families of all the martyrs who laid down their lives to protect our
borders. This will leave a message among textile industry people to
work for the shattered families of our martyrs. A day long cultural
programme was also organised during the event.
Surat to get centre of excellence for textile sector
Country’s largest man-made fabric (MMF) center, Surat can be
declared centre of excellence in the near future. This centre will
SURAT REPORT
TECHNICAL TEXTILE
25. 25March 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com
help to conduct research and development of MMF fabrics.
During the 3 days Surat International Textile Expo (SITEX) or-
ganised by Southern Gujarat Chamber of Commerce and Industry
(SGCCI), minister of state for textiles Mr. Ajay Tamta said, the min-
istry is considering to provide a centre of excellence and establish-
ing a textile park at Pinjrat in the city. The textile minister will visit
Surat textile industries on 1st April. The minister will present solar
scheme for weaving industries. It is also expected that the minister
will announce a centre of excellence and a mega textile park at Su-
rat. Earlier, The SGCCI has submitted a proposal for allocation of 80
lakh square meters of land for the mega textile park and to estab-
lished the centre of excellence. It will help the MMF sector develop
and manufacture different varieties of fabrics that have potential in
the domestic as well as the international markets.
In January 2007, the Planning Commission of India had called a
meeting in New Delhi to assess why the Textile Industries are strug-
gling and why the second largest sector in India after agriculture
was failing to modernise despite pumping-in a huge amount of
money under Technology Upgradation Funds Scheme (TUFS) and
its later variants.
The apex body, which has now been renamed as Niti Aayog,
was shocked to learn that out of the total 22.5 lakh only about 1.5
lakhs are modern and shuttleless machines, rest all are plain pow-
erlooms. It was during this meeting that Malegaon Industries
Manufacturers Association (MIMA) for the first time proposed that
a new scheme should be designed and implemented on trial basis
in select Textile Clusters.
I was leading the MIMA delegation in that meeting. Participat-
ing in the debate we said that owing to the challenges and diffi-
culties which the weavers were facing it would not be possible to
modernize the entire 22.5 lakh plain looms all at onceas the gov-
ernment wished. Simultaneously, as a parallel solution to the prob-
lem the industry was facing because of discarded machineries, we
proposed that the Ministry of Textiles along with the Technology
Upgradation Funds Scheme (TUFS) should also provide financial
support to the weavers, who were not in a position to buy new
modern machines, in upgradingtheir existing plain looms and con-
verting them into Semi-Automatic looms.
The proposal was received with a lukewarm response while the
officials insisted on replacing all running plain looms with new rapi-
er, water-jet, air-jet or other machineries to meet what they called
the looming global challenges.
Sometimes in 2009 the Planning Commission of India again
called a meeting with the same agenda. Interestingly, the Minis-
try of Textiles could not present any significant improvement in its
data of 2007 and the number of modern machines remained more
or less the same. By this time we had summed up all the minute
details of our proposal, also adding to it the necessary data to show
its feasibilityand an overview of the expected results the industry
would get after the plain looms were converted into Semi-Auto-
matic looms. After a heated discussion, it was finally agreed upon
that the proposal should be thoroughly studied and a draft of the
proposed scheme should be prepared on emergency basis.
After a series of meetings at Textile Commissioner Office in
Mumbai and with active support from Additional Textile Commis-
sioner S Balaraju and his juniors a draft of the scheme was finally
prepared which after some amendment was launched in October
2013 as “Pilot Scheme on In-situ Upgradation of Plain Powerloom
for SSI Powerloom Sector”.
The scheme was initially launched in six clusters – Malegaon
and Nagpur in Maharashtra, Bhagalpur in Bihar, Burhanpur in Mad-
hya Pradesh, Sircilla in Andhra Pradesh and Tanda in Uttar Pradesh,
on pilot basis. However, Bhiwandi and Ichalkiranji – two of the
country’s major textile clusters, were also added in the list later on.
As per the scheme, the Ministry of Textiles agreed to bear the
50% cost of the updragation kit worth Rs.30,000/- to be fitted in
one plain loom. It was also agreed that a weaver would need to
install these upgradation kits in at least 08 looms which are running
in a single shed.The kit in itself included weft stop motion, warp
stop motion, semi positive let-off motion, efficient braking device,
and in some cases self-lubricating nylon parts, anti-crack device and
dobby.
Soon after the Ministry of Textiles launched the In-situ scheme,
the Maharashtra government also flung into action and agreed to
provide special subsidy of Rs.10,000/- per upgradation kit, taking
the total amount of government fund to Rs.25,000/- for a kit cost-
ing Rs.30,000/-
By all accounts, the decisions by Ministry of Textiles, New Delhi
and Government of Maharashtra were momentous for the textile
industry and the weavers across the six clusters were enthusiastic.
During the implementation mode things became simpler after the
Ministry of Textiles agreed to transfer the subsidy amount directly
to the account of registered suppliers instead of giving them to the
weavers.
According to a rough estimate, more than 10,000 looms in the
eight clusters were ready for upgradation within one month of
the launch of the In-situ scheme. The weavers just needed to pay
Rs.5000/- per kit and their plain looms were convertedinto Semi-
Automatic machines. Fast installation of the kits, improved quality
of fabrics and increased production all lured more and more weav-
ers to fall inline and go for upgradation. The officials of the Textile
Commissioner Office, especially Ravi Kumar, Subbayyan S, T Nagraj
and DP Sharma were all seen shuttling from one textile cluster to
another to make things easier for the weavers and kit suppliers.
The then Textile Commissioner Kiran Soni Gupta, Additional Textile
Commissioner S Balarajuand others were all overwhelmedby the
response.
Everything was going on quiet smoothly, in fact beyond every-
A little effort by Maharashtra Govt can still
make In-situ Scheme a game changer
Mr. Aleem Faizee
MARKET REPORT
26. 26 March 2017www.textilevaluechain.com
one’s expectation. Thencame the shocker, and it was something
nobody in the industrywas prepared to face. The Central Govern-
ment had released its share of the funds to the suppliers. But, the
Maharashtra government after releasing funds initially could not
do so citing “technical” reasons, forcing the suppliers to stop sup-
ply of the kits. Installation of the kits going on with significant pace
came to a sudden halt. This was in 2015 and the situation remains
so even today.
But, if the Maharashtra government still takes a decision and
step to release the dues of the suppliersclearing the technical hur-
dles, the In-situ scheme could again be brought on track and made
to work as game changer in the time of existing crisis.For, the fab-
rics produced on the plain looms fitted with In-situ upgradation kits
are still in demand and the suppliers, almost broken becauseof the
long delay in the release of their money, too are ready to give the
implementation of the scheme one more chance.
“We have incurred huge losses because of the delay. But, we
are still ready to work with the Ministry of Textiles if our dues are
cleared, and assurance is given that whatever happened in the past
would not be repeated again”, a supplier said on the condition of
anonymity.
CMAI Organised a Seminar on Labour Law Important Acts
The Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI) organised a Seminar by Mr Talakshi Dharod of M/S T R Dharod of Labour
Industrial Law Consultant, on Labour Laws, Important Acts such as ESI, PF, Bonus and Gratuity, on March 3, 2017, at Koshish Hall, Daftary
Road, Malad (E), which was attended by more than 200 Garment Manufacturers.
“The Indian Economy is now
moving towards becoming a
Cashless Economy and it is nec-
essary that the Apparel Indus-
try brings transparency in their
Business,” said Mr Dharod. He
captured the attention of more
than 200 Garment Manufactur-
ers who had gathered to hear
him speak on Matters related to
Employees’ State Insurance Cor-
poration (ESIC), Employees Prov-
ident Fund (EPF), Payment of
Wages to Labour, etc. ESIC: Em-
ployees’ State Insurance Scheme
is a social security system tailored to provide socio-economic pro-
tection to Employees and their dependants covered under the
Scheme. Mr Dharod said that the ESIS is mandatory when an Gar-
ment Manufacturer has more than 10 Employees (Gross salary upto
R21,000/- p.m.) if not implemented, he could face arrest. The Gar-
ment Manufacturer is liable to pay 4.75 per cent of the gross salary
as his Contribution for every Employee and deduct 1.75 per cent as
the Employee’s contribution from the wages bill and pay these con-
tributions to the ESIC. The ESIC benefits that an Employee can avail
are: Medical Benefit, Sickness Benefit, Maternity Benefit, Disable-
ment Benefit, Dependants’ Benefit and Funeral Expenses. EPF: Mr
Dharod said that the EPF Act is mandatory when the Garment Man-
ufacturer has more than 20 employees. The Garment Manufacturer
is liable to pay 13.36 per cent of the gross salary as his contribution
for every employee and deduct 12 per cent as the employee’s con-
tribution. The benefits for the employee are: Accumulation
plus Interest upon retirement, resignation or death. Partial
withdrawals allowed for specific expenses such as marriages, ill-
ness, education, etc. In case of death, his Family will get a month-
ly pension. Mr
Dharod also brief-
ly touched upon
the Payment of
Bonus Act and
Gratuity Act. The
Seminar ended
with a Q A ses-
sion wherein Mr
Dharod answered
the queries of the
Members.
Today ‘Solar Energy’ has established itself as one of the most
potential non-conventional energy resources to steadily replace
conventional energy sources such as the hydro electricity and ther-
mal power, as the production of conventional energy is not likely
to meet future electricity demand of the world. The availability
of natural fuel such as coal, gas, oil is limited and also the power
generation using that fuel creates pollution into the atmosphere.
There are plenty of other environment friendly sources such as sun-
light and air which are rarely being used to generate power. Many
organizations have already started thinking about the alternative
energy resources and embracing solar energy. Besides being cost
effective the technology also saves the planet as it is complete pol-
lution-free.
In view of the above scenario and also for promoting ‘Green
Power’, Northern India Textile Research Association, popularly
known as NITRA, Ghaziabad, has decided to install Grid-connected
Roof-top Solar Power Plant at its building. The plant is estimated to
be fulfilling about 60%-70% of NITRA’s total power consumption in
first phase. This effort, in turn, will also reduce the pollution which
is quite prevalent in NCR and would help NITRA comply with its
social responsibility. In addition to that, this move will encourage
the textile and garment units to install solar power plant, many of
those have already installed in their units.
NITRA Embraces Green Power, Goes the Solar Way!
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