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MARCH 2017 Volume 5 Issue 3 Pages 48
© China’s commercial and Geopolitical initiative silk road trade route
© Market Reports : Yarn/ Surat/ Malegaon
© Australian Cotton Delegation / Industry Report
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www.rieter.com
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Opp. Habibganj Railway Station
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Phone 0755-2460107/08
Fax - 0755-4077097/98
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Com4®compact is the future
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quality and Rieter compact
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Executive Director
Com4® yarns from Rieter spinning machines fulfill the
most exacting requirements. Excellent properties ensure
competitiveness in a dynamic market. The benefits are also
visible in downstream processing and in the final product.
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We are in the era of the world where without smart technology & social media our life would be miserable.
Smart technology upgrading our life in more comfort zone by technologically upgraded products we use in our
routine life like mobile phones, household equipments, entertainment products/services, cosmetics /personal
care products, automobiles, computers, travel products etc. Social media forced us to live in virtual world over
real world; human mindset / values are changing from group living to nuclear living, selfless to selfish behaviour,
secure to insecure life, united to broken families etc. Human are feeling lonely in the crowd so they are constantly
living in virtual world & vice versa. This reality is heading towards a breakdown of traditional social set up we have
created. Business world will take real advantage of this situation to earn in materialistic world, which is acceptable,
if they produce sustainable and technological advance products which human can connect & feel comfortable.
As the natural climatic condition is changing every year, we are heading towards unbalanced, extreme environ-
ments at any point of time. This will also have a major change in the world of textile industry.
In a business world, every industry upgrading & innovating the products and services they supply to the world.
Why not textile and fashion? Our industry also moving slowly from awareness of new fibres to technological ad-
vanced fashion garments. New age sustainable fabrics to technically advanced fabrics. Today entire world wanted
and waiting to innovate in wearable technology, wherein garments are more functional & multipurpose than just
to cover the body. Sports textiles manufacturing brands already at innovation stage & moving on as compare to
other segments.
Now, at next stage of innovation, World needs integration of smart mobile to smart textiles. Application which
runs on garments. Are we Indians ready for next generation smart technological textiles and garments? Do our re-
search association really doing research on these directions? As of now, Asian countries being manufacturing hub
for conventional textiles, but do these countries really geared up with advance technological fabrics for which
demand in near future will be generated by the world population?
Let our presence in the world felt by contributing in a way we can, size does not matter. Doing best with posi-
tive intentions which makes a life and world a better place to live..!
Wishing you all a Very Happy New Financial Year..!!!
Are we ready with smart textiles?
Ms. Jigna Shah
Editor & Publisher
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INDUSTRY
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President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries
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Page 40: Texfair
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Page 44: Sanjay Plastics
Page 45: Taiwan Textiles
Page 46: Savio India
March 2017 ISSUE
Advertiser Index
CONTENT
GLOBAL FOCUS
11- China’s commercial and Geopolitical initiative silk road trade route
by Mr. Arvind Sinha
NEWS
12- GOTS New Version 5.0 released
20- Kate Middleton & A-list designer favourite Daniella Helayel col
laborates with Koovs for the Princess collection
26- CMAI organised Seminar on Labour law & Important Acts
26- NITRA embraces Green power, goes the solar way
41- German high quality products for ironing
COVER STORY: Creating Sustainable chain by Innovative Fibres
13- Innovative fibres / Yarns for Technical Textile Sector
by Mr. Avinash Mayekar
15- Sustainable trends for man-made fibres – Rieter
16- FT6E & FT7E : leading edge roving frame technology – Marzoli
18- World of Textile : TVC Team
18- Do you have water balance sheet of your factory ?
by Ms. Chitralekha Vaidya
21- Jammu Apparel Market by Mr. Hari Govind Mishra
HR FOCUS
22- NSQF level compliance of skill development courses
by Dr. Swapna Mishra
23- India, the third largest Asian economy, ranked 131 on human devel-
opment Index : UN
TECHNICAL TEXTILE
23- Protective work wears for workers working in cement industry
by NITRA
MARKET REPORT
24- Surat Report
25- Malegaon Report by Mr. Aleem Faizee
27- Yarn Report by YNFX
EVENT REPORT
29- ISCI fellowship award and felicitation of Dr. K.R. Kranti, CIRCOT
30- Joint Technological conference by BTRA / NITRA/ ATIRA/SITRA
32- Australian Cotton Delegation in India / Key Challenges facing Aus-
tralia’s Cotton Industry
33- Australia’s Cotton Industry in the Global Market
34- Taiwan Textile in Technotex 2017
37- Texprocess / Techtexil
BRAND FOCUS
35- Arvind Limited & Invista
36- ATE partnerships
38- SHOW CALENDAR
11March 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com
China’s Commercial & Geopolitical initiative
Silk Road Trade Route
China is reviving the historic Silk Road trade route that runs be-
tween its own borders and Europe. Announced in 2013 by President
XiJinping, the idea is that two new trade corridors – one overland,
the other by sea – will connect the country with its neighbors in the
west: Central Asia, the Middle East and Europe.
The project has proved ex-
pensive and controversial. So
why is China doing it?
There are strong commer-
cial and geopolitical forces at
play here, first among which is
China’s vast industrial overca-
pacity – mainly in steel manu-
facturing and heavy equip-
ment – for which the new
trade route would serve as
an outlet. As China’s domestic market slows down, opening new
trade markets could go a long way towards keeping the national
economy buoyant.
Hoping to lift the value of cross-border trade to $2.5 trillion
within a decade, President Xi Jinping has channelled nearly $1 tril-
lion of government money into the project. He’s also encouraging
state-owned enterprises and financial institutions to invest in infra-
structure and construction abroad.
It is not an economic project, it is a geopolitical project - and it
is very strategic.It’s clear that relationships with the ASEAN region,
Central Asia and European countries stand to improve significantly
if China directs more of its capital into developing infrastructure
overseas.
Moreover, by striking up economic and cultural partnerships
with other countries, China cements its status as a dominant player
in world affairs.
“We will support the One Belt, One Road project, said President
of the Asian Infrastructure Investment Bank, Jin Liquin”. But be-
fore we spend shareholders’ money, which is really the taxpayers’
money, we have three requirements.” The new trade route should
be promote growth, be socially acceptable and be environmentally
friendly.
What is China’s Silk
Road?
It’s a govern-
ment policy officially
known as One Belt,
One Road.
It is trying to cre-
ate a modern ver-
sion of the ancient
network of trade
routes, which con-
nected China, Europe and Africa.
In the words of Chinese President Xi Jinping:
“The economic belt along the Silk Road is home to almost 3 bil-
lion people, and represents the biggest market in the world with
unparalleled potential”.
My Experience is that One Belt, One Road is not just a good
medium for China’s openness to countries abroad it’s also a way to
share Chinese experience with the countries involved.
The New Silk Road policy covers both land and maritime routes,
but it’s much more than a transport project. The Chinese govern-
ment says it’s designed to boost global free trade and help coun-
tries coordinate their economic policies. As many as 60 nations
could be included in the initiative Start with a port, and behind
that you have an industrial zone and behind that you have a city
so, what we offer you is a full package who wins from that? Local
people one report said there were already 900 projects planned at
an estimated cost of $890 billion, it’s not yet clear where all of this
money will come from, But China has already set up a $50 billion Silk
Road Fund to support its mission.
China to run 1,000 cargo trains to Europe in 2017
BEIJING: China will run nearly 1,000 cargo trains to Europe in
2017, more than double the number from last year, as the Commu-
nist trading giant ramps up efforts to boost its dwindling exports.
The cargo trains from southwest China’s Chengdu city would
be doubled, the Chengdu International Railway Services Company
said today.
Chengdu, capital of southwest China’s Sichuan Province, ran
460 cargo trains to cities in Poland, the Netherlands and Germany
last year -- more thanany other Chinese city.
Chengdu delivered a total of 73,000 tonnes of goods worth
1.56 billion dollar in 2016 globally, state-run Xinhua news agency
reported.
The southwestern hub has planned three major rail line services
to Europe, with a middle route to Germany, Poland and the Nether-
lands, a southern route to Turkey and beyond, and another north-
ern route to Russia.
This year, new routes linking Chengdu to Istanbul and Moscow
will be officially launched, company chairman Fan Jun was quoted
Mr. Arvind Sinha
CEO - Business Advisors Group
Cell No. 9820062612
Email ID: lionasinha@gmail.com
GLOBAL FOCUS
12 March 2017www.textilevaluechain.com
as saying by the report.
The cargo trains from southwest China’s Chengdu city would
be doubled, the Chengdu International Railway Services Company
Trains to Istanbul and Moscow would take about 16 days and
10 days, with each route planning to operate 200 and 150 trains in
2017, respectively.
China last month has launched its first freight train to London.
London is the 15th city in Europe added to China-Europe freight
train services.
Demand for rail cargo service between China and Europe, an
alternative to slower and riskier sea freight and much costlier air
cargo, has exploded in recent years.
• By June 2016, trains had made nearly 2,000 trips between 25 Chi-
nese cities and Europe, with a total import and export value of
$17 billion, it said.
• China’s exports totalled to $2.27 trillion in 2015 slowing down
from $2.34 trillion in 2014.
• China’s economy grew at 6.9 per cent in 2015 slipping below
seven per cent in a quarter of century.
• As part of its efforts to stabilise its exports and economy, China
has embarked on multibillion dollar global connectivity project
called the One Belt One Road, (Silk Road).
The New Silk Road: China Launches Beijing-London Freight Train
Route
A general view of the first China Railway Express, a new railway
line from China to Europe during the inauguration by visiting Chi-
nese President Xi Jinping in Warsaw, Poland, on the sideline of the
International Forum on the New Silk Road, Monday, 20 June 2016.
The visit was intended to boost China’s infrastructure investments
in Europe, and opening China’s market to Poland’s foods.
On Sunday, the Chinese government launched a rail freight ser-
vice between China and London. This is the first direct rail link be-
tween China and Great Britain. The route of the service will traverse
from Beijing, across Asia and Europe, before terminating in London.
The route is actually not new at all. It is part of the old Silk Road,
which commenced in 200 BC, through which Chinese silk caravans
carried wears to Europe and Africa. The trail provided much wealth
and prestige for the Chinese Empire of the day.
Now, Beijing is aiming to resurrect this historic trade route by
using rail power.
The journey is as much an engineering challenge as a logistical
problem. Freight must swap trains along the way, as railway gaug-
es vary between the connecting countries. In its 18-day journey,
freight will span 7,456 miles of railways, crossing Kazakhstan, Rus-
sia, Belarus, Poland, Germany, Belgium, France and the UK.
The new route unlocks a new option for shippers. Currently,
the choice is two-fold. One, take an ocean-bound route, which, al-
though cheap, can be slow. Two, use an air carrier that is consider-
ably faster, but much more expensive.
A direct rail link between Beijing and Western Europe enables
manufacturers to explore new means to lower transport costs.
The line may not provide a suitable alternative to all producers, but
canny negotiators can leverage the new market entrant to lower
prices of their established pathways by boat or plane.
GLOBAL FOCUS
Version 5.0 of the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) has
been released. GOTS is the worldwide recognized standard for the
processing of textiles made with 95 percent (label grade “organ-
ic”) or at least 70 percent (label grade “made with organic”) certi-
fied organic fibres. GOTS’ core provisions such as the minimum con-
tent of certified organic fibers and the general bans on the use of
toxic and harmful chemicals, conventional cotton, virgin polyester,
GMOs, substances derived from GMOs and nanotechnology have
been maintained. The criteria for the “additional fibre material” are
now stricter regarding the environmentally improved and certified
regenerated cellulosic fibres: The use of Viscose and Modal is now
restricted to 10% (25% for sportswear and socks). Lyocell may still
be used up to 30% because of its more sustainable manufacturing
processes.
For the first time GOTS will allow “Combined Products” such
as prams with textile fabrics, bassinets, car seats or furniture with
textile fabric upholstery to have certified and labelled fabric com-
ponents. Regarding the GOTS social criteria an explicit section on
Ethical Business Behaviour including a corruption ban was added,
based on the UN Global Compact Principles. The mandatory GOTS
Social Compliance Management System for the first time includes
guidance on the use of tools such as SAI Social Fingerprint™ to help
companies measure and improve their social performance. “Revi-
sion of GOTS always walks a fine line between strict and verifiable
criteria and the needs of the market. For example, version 5.0 in-
cludes the tightening of composition requirements with respect
to regenerated cellulosic fibres. On the other hand, the new pos-
sibility of combined products with fabric components certified to
GOTS helps include a range of products that could not carry the
GOTS label in the past. This helps to increase our contribution to
sustainable development.” says Rahul Bhajekar, GOTS Director
Standards Development and Quality Assurance. GOTS 5.0 is the
result of a year-long revision process with multi stakeholder input
which is repeated every three years. All relevant Stakeholders who
operate internationally with expertise in the fields of organic pro-
duction, textile colourants & chemicals, social criteria & industry,
NGOs and consumer interests were invited to participate. Invited
organizations included Greenpeace, Clean Clothes Campaign, Fair
Labour Association, FairWear Foundation, IFOAM, ILO, Transpar-
ency International, Social Accountability International (SAI) and
Textile Exchange. The list of all stakeholders and more about the
revision process can be found on GOTS website (http://www.glob-
al-standard.org/the-standard/revision-procedure.html).
GOTS Version 5.0, the Manual for Implementation Version 5.0,
a list of relevant changes and further information regarding GOTS
can be found on http://www.global-standard.org.
Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) - New version 5.0 released:
Stricter criteria for regenerated fibres & category “Combined Products” added
NEWS
13March 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com
Introduction:
“Continuous Innovation” is a key element in getting success in
Technical textile industry. One needs to be innovative in produc-
tion, process & even in marketing strategies.
With the continuous advancement in various fields like health-
care and hygiene, sports, protective textiles, and growing require-
ments from many industries, the existing fibers is being modified
and new fibers are being developed to meet specific and stringent
requirements of the technical applications. The fiber and polymer
technologists have been continuously innovating new fibres to
meet growing demands of high performance and functional tex-
tiles. The functional property requirement varies from sector to
sector e.g. it is a fibre with high tenacity, high modulus and less
weight for the application of filtration and sports textiles. In the
case of medical and hygiene products, it should be free from toxic
and biodegradable. For protective textiles, fibers should be high
resistance to corrosive chemicals and high resistance to elevated
temperatures, flames and very high hydrophilic.
In fact, in case of apparels, the global trend is shifting from
occasion specific clothing to function based clothing where fabric
properties play major role. Some of the trends like temperature
sensitive& IT embedded technical garments will be gaining more
importance in coming future. Increasing awareness on climatic
changes like global warming, eco-friendly concept & enormous
industrial growth will be leading to more focus on function based
clothing than need specific clothing. These clothing consist of fi-
bres with inherent functional properties. Technological advance-
ment plays important role in development of high performance
and specialty fibres which differ ac-
cording to their specific properties
& end-uses.
Major High Performance Fibres:
Glass Fibre: Glass fiber is the
oldest and most familiar, high-per-
formance fibre. Fibres have been
manufactured from glass since the
1930s. Although early versions had
high-strength, they were relatively
inflexible and not suitable for sever-
al textile applications. Today’s glass
fibres offer a much wider range of
properties and can be found in many
end uses, such as insulation, fire-re-
sistant, and reinforcing materials for
composites.
Carbon Fiber: Carbon fiber, al-
ternatively graphite fiber, carbon
graphite or CF, is a material consist-
ing of fibers about 5–10 μm in diameter and composed mostly of
carbon atoms. Carbon fibre may also be engineered for strength.
Carbon fibre variants differ in flexibility, electrical conductivity,
thermal and chemical resistance. Car-
bon fibre found its applications in au-
tomobile, aircraft, sport equipment
and carbon electrode etc.
Aramid Fiber: Aramid fiber is the
best known of the high-performance,
synthetic, organic fibres. Closely
related to polyamides, aramids are
derived from aromatic acids and
amines. The high impact resistance
of the para-aramids makes them
popular for ‘bullet-proof’ body armour. For many less demanding
applications, aramids may be blended with other fibres.
PBI (Polybenzimidazole): PBI (polybenzimidazole) is another
fibre that takes advantage of the high stability of conjugated aro-
matic structures to produce high thermal resistance. The ladder-
like structure of the polymer further increases the thermal stability.
PBI is noted for its high cost, due to high raw material costs and a
demanding manufacturing process. The high degree of conjugation
in the polymer structure imparts an orange colour that cannot be
removed by bleaching. When converted into fabric, it yields a soft
hand with good moisture regain.
PBI may be blended with aramid
or other fibres to reduce cost and
increase fabric strength.
PBO (polyphenylenebenzo-
bisoxazole) and PI (polyimide) are
two other high- temperature re-
sistant fibres based on repeating
aromatic structures. Both are re-
cent additions to the market. PBO
exhibits very good tensile strength and high modulus, which are
useful in reinforcing applications. Polyimide’s temperature resist-
ance and irregular cross-section make it a good candidate for hot
gas filtration applications.
PPS (polyphenylene sulfide) exhibits moderate thermal stabil-
ity but excellent chemical and fire resistance. It is used in a variety
of filtration and other industrial applications.
Melamine Fiber: Melamine fiber is primarily known for its in-
herent thermal resistance and outstanding heat-blocking capability
in direct flame applications. This high stability is due to the cross-
linked nature of the polymer and the low thermal conductivity of
melamine resin. In comparison with other high-performance fibers,
melamine fibres offer excellent value for products designed for
direct flame contact and elevated temperature exposures. More-
over, the dielectric properties, cross-section shape and distribu-
tion make it ideal for high- temperature filtration applications. It is
Innovative fibres/Yarns for Technical Textile Sector!
Hot Gas Filtration
Bullet Proof Jacket
Carbon Fiber
Glass Fiber
Mr.Avinash Mayekar
MD & CEO
Suvin Advisors Pvt Ltd
+919322906199
www.suvinindia.com
COVER STORY
14 March 2017www.textilevaluechain.com
sometimes blended with aramid or other high-performance fibres
to increase final fabric strength.
Fluoropolymer (PTFE, polytetrafluoroethylene) offers ex-
tremely high chemical resistance, coupled with good thermal sta-
bility. It also has an extremely low coefficient of friction, which can
be either an advantage or disadvantage, depending on the use.
HDPE (high-density polyethylene) can be extruded using spe-
cial technology to produce very high molecular orientation. The re-
sulting fibre combines high strength, high chemical resistance and
good wear properties with light weight, making it highly desirable
for applications ranging from cut-proof protective gear to marine
ropes. Since it is lighter than water, ropes made of HDPE float. Its
primary drawback is its low softening and melting temperature.
Ceramic Fiber: High-temperature insulation wool (HTIW),
known as ceramic fiber wool until the 1990s, is one of several types
of synthetic mineral wool, generally defined as those resistant to
temperatures above 1000°C. The first variety, aluminium silicate fi-
bre, developed in the 1950s, was referred to as refractory ceramic
fibre. Applications envisaged are in gas turbines, both aeronautical
and ground-based, heat exchangers, first containment walls for fu-
sion reactors, as well as uses for which no matrix is necessary such
as candle filters for high temperature gas filtration. Alumina and
silicon carbide bulk ceramics are widely used for their high stiffness
and good high temperature mechanical properties in air; however,
they are generally weak due to the presence of critically sized de-
fects.
Chemically Resistant Fibers: Chemically resistant organic poly-
meric fibres include those which are designed to resist chemical
attack for acceptable periods during their service lives at both am-
bient and elevated temperatures. As a consequence of their inert
structures they may also be flame resistant and so address markets
where that property is also desirable.
Fluorinated fibres: PTFE, PVF, PVDF and FEP (ARH) and Chlorin-
ated fibres: PVDC (ARH) are Chemically resistant fibers.
Thermally Resistant Fibers: Thermally resistant organic poly-
meric fibres include those that resist thermal degradation and
some degree of chemical attack, notably oxidation, for acceptable
periods during their service lives. Thermosets (HE and HS), Mela-
mine–formaldehyde fibres, Basofil (BASF) (HE) are Thermally re-
sistant fibres.
Specialty Fibres:
Different categories of specializedfibres available in market like
Modal, Tencel, Coolmax, Cuproammonium Rayon, Kermel®, Ther-
moCool, Recron®, Bamboo, Linen, Acrylic& many more. .
Tencel: Fully degradable Tencelfibre manufactured from wood
pulp is soft as silk, strong as polyester, cool as linen, warm as wool
and as absorbent as cotton. Not only is Tencel environmentally
friendly, but also is has been designed to be a lovely and wearable
fiber. Modal is a semi synthetic cellulose & it is used alone or blend-
ed with other fibres. It offers soft hand-feel, good drapebility and
comfort while wearing. It has good moisture regain and air perme-
ability which is often considered better than cotton fabric; hence it
is used in in household items such as pajamas, towels, bathrobes,
under garments and bed sheets. It is a good material for exercise
clothing and health suit, which can serve to benefit physiology cir-
culation and health of the body.
Coolmax: A trademark of Invista, is specially-engineered poly-
ester fibre to improve “breathability” compared to natural fibres
like cotton. The series of closely spaced channels creates capillary
action that wicks moisture through the core and out to a wider area
on the surface of the fabric which increases evaporation & now
often woven with other materials like cotton, wool, Spandex and
Tencel. Properties of CoolMax fabric allows wearer to keep sweat
free hence it is widely used in garments of mountain climbing gear,
casual sportswear, underwear & mattress covers. Other useful
properties include resistance to fading, shrinking and wrinkling.
Cuprammonium rayon is also a specialized fibre used in light-
weight summer dresses and blouses, sometimes in combination
with cotton to make textured fabrics with slubbed, uneven sur-
faces.
Several other fibres /yarns are widely used various industrial &
other functional applications like dope dyed polyester yarns used in
high visibility garments; Kermel® having properties of non- inflam-
mability, resistance to high temperature, resistance to abrasion,
resistance to chemicals majorly used in protective clothing
ThermoCool fibre/yarns specifically designed to optimize the
body’s natural thermo regulating capabilities through unique smart
fiber cross sections that provide evaporative cooling or thermo-
buffering according to the body’s needs. The garments produced
from spun ThermoCool keep a body warm when it is cold and cool
when it is hot leading to total body comfort and garment moisture
management majorly used in active sports-wear.
Stretch yarn which is manufactured from Elastane fibre is com-
monly termed as Lycra or Spandex. Its applications in industry are
mostly for body confirming garments such as sportswear, founda-
tion garments, jeans & intimate apparels which ensures a stable
shape during wearing. Other outstanding features beside shape
retention are higher elasticity, smooth & supple hand-feel, lower
moisture regain, resistance to pilling & resistance to abrasion. Glob-
al demand of stretch yarn will soar up in coming years because of
increasing population.
There are other products like Organic Cotton, Compact, CSY,
Melange, Slub, Multi count, Gassed, Mercerized, Fancy yarns, and
Polyester/Nylon Filament yarn like DTY, FDY and POY in knitting and
weaving also capturing huge markets.
Conclusion:
India has already positioned strongly in international market
in terms of convectional yarns, now time has come to understand
the importance of high performance and specialty fibres and yarns.
Umpteen numbers of different yarns are developed in international
market depending upon the properties, end-uses, different finish-
es, different textures and different looks.
Currently most of high performance and specialty fibres are be-
ing imported from outside in India and the demand for the same
COVER STORY
15March 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com
will be rising in future in multifold with kind of growth in the sec-
tors like automobile, infrastructure, sports, health and hygiene &
many industries etc. Indian entrepreneurs can capitalize this great
untapped opportunity. Classic example is Recron®- a polyester
fibre brand of Reliance Industries. It is developed in wide ranges
depending on applications like Recron® Easy Stretch, Recron® FR (
Fire retardant), Recron® LP (low-pill tow and fibre), Recron® Super
bright, Recron® Dyefast, Recron® Micrelle, Recron® 3S, Recron®
Superdye& many more.
The fundamental strength of the Indian textile industry is its
strong production base of wide range of fibre / yarns from natural
fibres like cotton, jute, silk and wool to synthetic /man-made fibres
like polyester, viscose, nylon and acrylic. Now, time has come to
focus more on value added yarns which can fetch good margins
to Indian spinners than conventional yarns& thereafter taking the
final value addition in smart textiles.
COVER STORY
Fibre consumption is rising and in particular, filaments are find-
ing use in an increasing number of applications. For the short staple
spinning mill, the trend is also towards man-made fibres, but espe-
cially to blends with various fibre materials. Thus the functionality
of the end product can be specifically influenced.
Experts agree that with growing prosperity the fibre consump-
tion per head will continue to increase. Forecasts assume that by
2030 the worldwide fibre consumption will rise to approx. 115 mil-
liontons (PCI, 2015) (Fig. 1).
All raw materials will contribute to this growth, however fila-
ments more than staple fibres. The share of filaments will increase-
from 39 % in 2010 to 49 % in 2030.
New applications, particularly in the finer yarn count range,
willcontribute to this. Filaments have good functional properties-
for textile as well as technical applications. The development is
also driven by the growing share of knitted fabric applications with
icreasingly finer gauge. Notably with fine yarn counts, filaments are
particularly economic.
Despite this development, the consumption of short staple
fibres will rise to around 58 million tons (Fig. 2).
In the short staple spinning mill, the share of cotton will
decrease from 54 % in 2010 to 48 % in 2030. The absolute
consumption will grow slightly from 25 million tons in 2010 to 28
million tons in 2030 (Fig. 3).
Around half the fibres will be processed in the it pure form.
Theot her hal fwill bespun to blended yarns. The blends from cot-
ton with polyester dominate the blended yarns with almost 50 %.
The blend in go fibres is made for two important reasons.
One is that polyester is a cost-effective fibre and the raw material
price is an important parameter for the whole yarn costs. The oth-
er is tha tthe yarn characteristics can be specifically influenced by
blends (seealso Th. Weide, 2014, „Rieter Manual of Spinning“ Vol-
ume 7, Chapter 4).
These two reasons, costs and function, as well as the limited
grow the potential of cotton, mean that the share of blends will-
continue to increase.
Looking at the use of the yarns, cotton dominates the under-
wear sector. Viscose is also used as 100 % raw material in all applica-
tions.
With technical textiles, 100 % polyester or its blends dominate.
With outer wear, polyester dominat esespecially in blends with cot-
ton and viscose as is similarly the case with home textiles (Fig. 4).
With the increasing use of man-made fibres, new questions
arise for the short staple spinning mill. The Rieter Manual of Spin-
ning Volume 7 deals comprehensively with the technological ques-
tions (Fig. 5). To manufacture a yarn from different fibre types,
the spinning mill has to fulfil two requirements: produce the right
blend ratio and mix the two fibre types well. A good and evenblend
is important for a uniform distribution of the fibres in the yarn
diameter and on the running length of the thread. This, so that
at every point in the yarn the blended fibre types appear in the-
same ratio. The fibre there fore has the samecharacteristics, such
as strength and dyeing capacity, at every point.
Sustainable trend for man-made fibres
16 March 2017www.textilevaluechain.com
FT6E and FT7E: leading-edge roving frame
technology
Introduction
Few machines in a modern spinning mill are as critical as the
roving frame. Building a solid and reliable roving frame is not an
easy task and yet again it is absolutely necessary for the spinner as
this machine can feed, depending on the count being produced,
thousands of spindles at the spinning frames.
Marzoli, the only European manufacturer of the full line of
machines for spinning of short staple fibers with over 150 roving
frames being sold every year worldwide, is the ideal referent for
whoever wants to choose the best technology. Its FT6E and FT7E
represent a state-of-the-art solution, yielding the best results for ef-
ficiency, reliability and quality. The article aims at presenting from a
technical and technological point of view these machines.
Drive system
The FT6E and FT7E are driv-
en by independent drives for
the drafting system, the flyers,
the spindles and the bobbin rail.
Every drive is coordinated by
the central CPU which ensures
perfect synchronization of all
the movements involved in
bobbin formation.
The spindles drive is a group
drive where motion is transmit-
ted through toothed belts. In
traditional machines spindles
are moved by one motor which,
through a long shaft, transmits motion to bevel gears which drive
pulleys that drive belts which ultimately make spindles rotate. A
group drive allows to substantially simplify this transmission sys-
tem. The drive comprises several motors, each one driving a limited
number of spindles. Each motor, through a pulley, drives toothed
belts which transmit motion directly to the spindles. Shafts, gear
boxes and bevel gears are eliminated. Therefore it is possible to:
ƒ reduce maintenance costs: fewer transmission components
are needed and lubrication is no longer required;
ƒ reduce noise;
ƒ reduce vibrations: lower mechanical transmission entails low-
er wear of transmission components and therefore lower vi-
brations. This enables the machine to work at higher speeds;
ƒ increase transmission efficiency: transmission system com-
prises only a pulley and toothed belts: no shafts, no bevel
gears are included. This allows to reduce energy consump-
tion.
Drafting system
Marzoli roving frames can be equipped with a 3-over-3 or
4-over-4 top-of-the-class drafting system. There are two options
for the cylinder diameters: the standard solution has a diameter of
32mm; however, in case there is a high percentage of short fibers in
the processed material, cylinders with a diameter of 27mm can be
used to reduce the gauge between nipping points. This guarantees
a better control of short fibers during draft.
Marzoli drafting system can also rely on highly efficient cleaners
for both top rollers and bottom drafting cylinders. For top rollers
there are two options: rollers with rubber fins and revolving felt
belts. For the bottom cylinders there are rubber scrapers. These
solutions guarantee that at every turn both top rollers and bottom
cylinders are always cleaned. This, along with the high quality of
each and every component, entails the perfect control of fibers
during draft and top quality of the roving.
False twist area
As bobbins on
modern roving
frames are arranged
in two rows, rovings
can have different
angles at the deliv-
ery of the drafting
system and at the
entrance of the fly-
ers’ top. It has been
argued that these
different angles can entail differences in the spinning triangle at
draft delivery and different tensions of the rovings thereby causing
an uneven take up of twist and variations in roving count.
On Marzoli machines all rovings lay parallel to one another:
they have the same angle at the delivery of the drafting system and
at the flyers’ entrance for both the front row and the back row of
bobbins.
Individual sensors ensure that each and every roving break is
properly detected and the machine securely stopped, even in case
of roving overlap around the cylinder/top roller. On the other hand,
if dust passed in front of the sensors the machine would not stop, it
would continue to run. Individual sensors also make suction not re-
quired. This, along with the IE3 motors and an overall design meant
to minimize energy consumption, allows to save up to 4 Kwh.
Roving tension is kept constant within a pre-set range through
sensors that constantly monitor roving’s fluctuations between the
delivery of the drafting system and the flyer’s top and adjust the
speed of the spindles accordingly. These sensors play an important
role in ensuring that there are no false drafts in the roving and that
roving breaks are kept to a minimum.
Winding area
It is argued that to increase productivity and lower investment
costs, spindlage and dimension of bobbins should be increased.
This is only partially true: a higher number of spindles per machine
COVER STORY
17March 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com
reduces the cost of
the investment as the
total required num-
ber of spindles can be
reached with fewer
machines. From a unit
cost (cost per spindle)
point of view, there is
an economic advan-
tage that stems from
the amortization of the
cost of the head and
rear stocks on a higher
number of spindles per
machine. However, the higher the number of spindles, the smaller
the benefit stemming from a further increase in machine’s length.
Machines exceeding a certain number of spindles also entail higher
costs for electronics and drafting drive. Last but not least a higher
number of spindles per machine causes a reduction in efficiency.
The FT6E (110mm gauge) can reach 224 spindles and produce
bobbins of 16” x 6”. The FT7E (130mm gauge) has a spindlage up to
168 spindles and can produce packages of 16” x 7”. These numbers
represent the limit in terms of number of spindles and dimensions
of bobbins to maintain top efficiency standards. A higher number
of spindles per machine would not give an additional benefit to the
spinner as the decrease in machine efficiency would not be coun-
terbalanced by the reduction in the average cost per spindle.
The flyers installed on Marzoli’s roving frames are made of ultra-
light alloy and are dynamically balanced so that even when working
at high speeds, vibrations are kept to a minimum. Marzoli’s roving
frames can reach up to 1,500 rpm mechanically and the roving can
be wound on standard tubes, with a diameter of 53.5 mm, or on
thinner tubes , with a diameter of 48mm, to have a further slight
increase in bobbin capacity.
The creel
The creel is equipped with hexagonal aluminum rollers to pre-
vent false drafts, a very important aspect especially when working
with combed slivers. Optic sensors positioned between the roll-
ers ensure that in case of sliver break the machine is immediately
stopped. Marzoli roving frames can be fed with cans with a diam-
eter of up to 24” which allow to reduce machine stops and increase
its efficiency.
Doffing
One of the most crucial aspects on modern roving frames is au-
tomation especially on doffing since doff is costly, frequent, has a
quite-important negative influence on efficiency (especially on long
roving frames) and, if done manually, can damage the roving bob-
bins.
Nowadays several options for automatic doffing are available.
One of the simplest, most reliable and fastest, automatic doffing
systems is the
one that Marzoli
has implemented,
tested and refined
in the last twenty
years. With this so-
lution in less than
3 minutes full bob-
bins are replaced
with empty tubes
and the machine is
restarted. During
the new doffing cycle, the full bobbins are forwarded to the trans-
port system which carries the packages to the spinning frames.
Also a semi automatic doffing option of the machine is avail-
able. With this version ergonomics has been substantially improved
if compared to standard manual-doffing machines. After bobbin
formation is completed, the bobbin rail lowers and tilts out for an
easy bobbin collection. Furthermore, there is a parking rail in front
of the bobbin rail with empty tubes so that substitution of full bob-
bins with empty tubes is as easy as possible.
With the release of the FT6E and FT7E Marzoli offers also a third
option: the roving frame with the pre-arrangement for automatic-
doffing upgrade. During doffing the bobbin rail lowers and slides
out horizontally, just like the fully-automatic model. Besides per-
mitting an easy collection of the full bobbins, this solution allows
an easy and cost efficient upgrade of the machine to the fully-au-
tomatic version.
Energy efficiency
To succeed in the highly competitive and globalized sector spin-
ners must minimize production costs of whom energy consump-
tion represents an important component.
Marzoli roving frames represent an outstanding machine from
the energy consumption point of view. This machine is the only one
available on the market that does not need suction. In fact thanks
to the individual sensors installed as standard any roving break can
be promptly identified. No suction is required to capture the bro-
ken roving and make it pass in front of the photocell.
This, along with the IE3 premium efficiency motors, the light
weight components (e.g. the bobbin rail in aluminum) and an
overall design meant to minimize friction and transmission ineffi-
ciencies, entails an energy saving of over 4 Kwh for every hour of
operation.
COVER STORY
18 March 2017www.textilevaluechain.com
Do you have water Balance sheet of
your factory??
We are back, as promised, to take you on further into the world
of Textile industry. As we said last time, “Textile industry is not only
about the final product or material, it goes beyond the obvious.”
Every minute thing on the final product requires special skillsets.
No one section is more important than the other. They all are equal-
ly very important.
In the last edition, we focused on the different fibres, manu-
facturers, and spinning techniques. In this edition, we will look in
details on processes like weaving, knitting, processing, and gar-
menting.
Weaving is about how the threads are interlocked to form the
basis of a fabric or a cloth. The characteristics of the cloth are very
much dependent on the ways these threads are interlocked. Weav-
ing can be defined as the repetition of the following three actions,
also known as the primary motion of the loom:
1. Shedding: where the ends are separated by raising or lower-
ing heald frames to form a clear space where the pick can pass.
2. Picking: where the weft or pick is propelled across the loom
by hand, an air-jet, a rapier, or a shuttle
3. Beating-up or battening: where the weft is pushed up against
the fell of the cloth by the reed.
The secondary motions of the loom are:
1. Let off Motion: where the warp is let off the warp beam at a
regulated speed to make the filling even, filling here refers to the
filling between the threads, and of the required design.
2. Take up Motion: Takes up the woven fabric in a regulated
manner so that the density of filling is maintained.
The tertiary motions of the loom are two stop motions, wrap
stop motion and weft stop motion. These motions are important
to stop in the loom in the event of the thread break.
Let us know a little about the weavers. There are a variety of
them.
1. Handloom weavers: We all have heard of handloom material
and handloom artifacts. Every time there is an handloom exhibi-
tion, we all rush to get a few handcrafted things. Previously, it was
a male dominated job.
2. Power loom infection: As the name suggests, machines are
used in this technique to do everything. Girls and young women
used to take care of these machines and operated them for weav-
ing purpose.
Now let us move on to knitting. Knitting is about putting those
yarns together to create a design. It creates multiple loops in yarns
called stitches, in a line or a tube. It has multiple active stitches on
the needle at a time. If you have a look at the knitted fabric, there
are a multiple loops in consecutive rows. Not only loops in a row
but also the rows are interlocked. Knitting can be done by hand or
machines.
Hand knitting is the most conventional method of knitting.
There are many hundreds of different knitting stitches used by
hand knitters. A piece of hand knitting begins with the process of
casting on, which involves the initial creation of the stitches on the
needle.
Mega knitting is a term recently coined and relates to the use of
knitting needles greater than or equal to half an inch in diameter.
Mega knitting uses the same stitches and techniques as con-
ventional knitting, except that hooks are carved into the ends of
the needles. The hooked needles greatly enhance control of the
work, catching the stitches and preventing them from slipping off.
It was the development of the knitting machine that introduced
hooked needles and enabled faultless, automated knitting.
Let us move on to the textile processing. Textile processing or
manufacturing is based on converting yarn to fabric or fabric to
yarn. These are then dyed and/or printed and fabricated into the
final product. There are various types of processing techniques.
These techniques differ from the base material to material.
Once all the processes discusses in these two articles, process-
ing, spinning, weaving or knitting are done, the finishing and mar-
keting take place. Finishing is the finishing of the final product that
includes, checking the quality, damage, packaging, tagging, etc.
Marketing is where the product is marketed, a need is created and
the product is sold.
The world of Textile
COVER STORY
This article focuses on importance of water audits, commercial
impact of the same on profitable manufacturing and measures on
reducing the water footprint on various types of industries. The wa-
ter balance sheet of any industry gives you insight of current situa-
tion and roadmap for future water conservation action plan.
As the financial year end is close by, every business is busy in
financial closure. But have you ever made your water resource bal-
ance sheet? It’s high time for the same too.
Water is a precious natural national resource with almost fixed
quantum of availability. With continuous growth in country’s pop-
ulation, per capita availability of utilizable water is going down,
whereas with ever-rising standard of living of people, all around
rapid industrialization and urbanization, demand of fresh water is
going up continuously. Unabated discharge of industrial effluents
into water bodies is further aggravating the situation of scarcity of
water of Acceptable quality. In spite of the fact that fresh water is
rapidly becoming scarce it is continued to be used wastefully.
Rapid industrialization and urbanization coupled with continu-
ous decline in per capita water availability is putting a lot of pres-
Ms.Chitralekha Vaidya
CEO, Varshasookt Consultants
varshasookt@gmail.com
By TVC Team
19March 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com
sure on the available water resources in the country. Hence, it is
important to understand the dynamics behind water audit and its
impact on profitability of production.
What Is Water Used For?
Water is used by commercial, institutional and industrial cus-
tomers for five primary purposes:
y Indoor domestic use (rest rooms, kitchens, and laundries)
y cooling and heating
y landscape irrigation
y processing of materials
y As an ingredient
Examples of water uses in commercial and institutional facilities
y Indoor (Domestic) Water
 Kitchens, cafeterias, staff rooms –
ƒ Faucets , Distilled/drinking water, Ice machines , Dishwashers
ƒ Garbage disposals , Food preparation , Restrooms and show-
ers , Faucets , Toilets and urinals , Showers
 Laundry - washing machines
 Sanitation
ƒ Facility cleaning , Sterilization/autoclaves , Equipment wash-
ing , Dust control , Container washing
Processes – photographic and x-ray processing, silk screening,
dry cleaning , printing , etc.
y Cooling and Heating
ƒ Cooling towers/evaporative , coolers Boilers and steam sys-
tems Once-through cooling , Air conditioners , Air compres-
sors , Hydraulic equipment , Degreasers ,Rectifiers ,Vacuum
pumps , Outdoor Water Use , Irrigation , Pools and spas ,Dec-
orative water features
While establishing any new industry, water and energy are 2
most important factors considered from any factory and process-
ing industry operation point of view. And, water audits can play
very important role in the assessment. Water audits are effective
methods to account for all water usage within a facility in order
to identify opportunities to improve water use efficiency. Benefits
from implementation of water audit may include lower utility costs,
energy savings, and reduced process costs.
Water put in the system
 water used in processes,
activities
 Unaccounted water
y Water For drinking
y Water for cleaning
y Water as raw material in
process
y Effluent generated
y domestic wastewater Gen-
erated
y Leakage from reservoirs
y Leakage from pipe net-
works
y Leakage from Taps
y Evaporation Losses
What is Water Conservation?
Water conservation, also known as water use efficiency, is an
integral part of water supply planning and water resource manage-
ment. Water conservation is defined as the beneficial reduction
in water use, waste, and loss. Water conservation is becoming a
viable alternative and complement to developing new water sup-
plies. While short-term water restrictions imposed during a water
shortage can temporarily relieve pressure on water sources, lasting
water conservation involves a combination of retrofits, new water
saving appliances, maintenance of infrastructure, and a collective
water conservation ethic focused on resource use, allocation, and
protection.
What is water audit?
A water audit is an on-site survey and assessment of water-us-
ing hardware, fixtures, equipment, landscaping, and management
practices to determine the efficiency of water use and to develop
recommendations for improving water-use efficiency. In simple
words, a water audit is a systematic review of a site that identifies
the quantities and characteristics of all the water uses. The site may
vary from a public water utility, facility (institutional or commercial
properties like malls, office, schools etc.) or a household. The over-
all objective of conducting a water audit is to identify opportunities
to make system or building water use more efficient.
Facility water audits include –
ƒ accurate measurement of all water entering the facility
ƒ the inventory and calculation of all on-site water uses and any
unused water sources or waste streams that may be available
ƒ calculation of water related costs
ƒ And identification of potential water efficiency measures.
ƒ The information from the water audit forms the basis for a
comprehensive conservation program to implement specific
water saving measures throughout the facility. The conserva-
tion program may consist of one or more projects in different
areas of the facility.
Estimation of Wastewater Generation  action plan to reduce
the generation
It is difficult to assess wastewater generation from industries
on the basis of average generation of wastewater per product unit,
mainly due to large variations in volume of wastewater generation
per product unit. However owing to various constraints, present
estimation of industrial wastewater is based on average generation
of wastewater per unit product.
The volume of wastewater and concentration of various pol-
lutants in industrial discharge vary depending on manufacturing
processes and other factors such as housekeeping, reuse, technol-
ogy, etc. Even for a given manufacturing process, the amount of
wastewater generation depends on several factors, for instance:
a) Housekeeping practices - Housekeeping practices refer to
simple measures such as arresting leaks from pipes, stopping of un-
necessary overflows from the vessels, improving material handling
procedures to reduce losses. Poor housekeeping results in signifi-
cant generation of wastewater.
B) Extent of process control - Process control includes setting
up of process parameters to optimum levels leading to best possi-
ble yields and minimum wastage of water. Product quality require-
ments refer to commercial specifications, which may vary depend-
ing on market.
c) Product quality – Product quality requirements including
packaging - Achieving better quality generally require additional
processing and improved raw materials and thus may generate
more wastes.
d) Management systems  initiatives - The management sys-
tems include entire sequence of raw material processing, technol-
ogy and production of finished product.
COVER STORY
20 March 2017www.textilevaluechain.com
The emphasis on curtailing wastage in handling and improve-
ment in operation processes through better management can lead
to minimization of wastes.
The results from water audits should be used for leak detection,
minimization of wastewater generated, implementation of water
conservation plans such as Rainwater harvesting and watershed
management, wastewater recycling, zero liquid discharge policy
and so on.
Selection of Right kind of technology for wastewater Treatment
 Reuse:-
It is very important to select right kind of technology for waste-
water processing. Generally emphasis is given only on capital cost
and operation maintenance, recurring costs are overlooked. Hence,
it is important to answer following questions before narrowing
down on choice of technology.
Need for implementation of long term sustainable measures like
Rainwater Harvesting
India has enough rainwater available throughout the year. It is
question of utilizing the same. As the rainwater is purest source of
fresh water, it is important to have long term vision about business
sustainability and not just short term vision of payback criteria. As
availability of water can largely hamper the production, it must be
considered while investing in other short term options like purchas-
ing water from outside temporary resources.
Small Industry Wise Tips
Hospitals
ƒ Bathroom fixture replace-
ment
ƒ Cooling tower efficiency ret-
rofits
ƒ Laundry equipment and pro-
cess changes
ƒ Condensate return systems
for sterilizers
ƒ Conversion from x-rays to
digital imaging
Hotels and Motels
ƒ Bathroom fixture replace-
ment
ƒ Laundry equipment and pro-
cess changes
ƒ Guest conservation aware-
ness programs to promote
less frequent linen exchang-
es to reduce laundry
Schools
ƒ Bathroom fixture replace-
ment
ƒ Cooling tower efficiency ret-
rofits
ƒ Irrigation efficiency meas-
ures such as weather- or
moisture-based irrigation
controllers
Restaurants
ƒ Water efficiency training and
information for kitchen staff
ƒ Use air-cooled equipment
such as icemakers
ƒ Bathroom fixture replace-
ment
ƒ Water efficient appliances
and best management prac-
tices during their use
It is a typical mindset of the industry that profits are generally
made by not treating wastewater properly and hence saving on
the treatment cost. But as the “polluters pay” policy is becoming
effective day by day, there is requirement of paradigm shift from
mindset of “profit in pollution” to “profit from water recovery” and
“resource recovery from waste”.
COVER STORY
Flamboyant Brazilian-born designer Daniella Helayelcollabo-
rates with Koovsfor The Princess Collection.A favourite of Kate –
Duchess of Cambridge, her designs havealso been worn by A-List
female celebrities from Madonna and Kylie to JLo and Ellie Gould-
ing, and Keira Knightly to Scarlett Johansson and Eva Mendes, all
loving her signature style - cut to feel sexy, fit and flatter.
Inspired by Pippa Middleton’s much anticipated wedding and
launching in May to coincide with the summer party season, the
collection will be effortlessly elegant with a young fun twist and
offer seamless day to evening wear - perfect for any occasion. Dan-
iella, was already dressing A-List stars when she was catapulted to
global status when Kate Middleton chose to wear her iconic sap-
phire blue silk jersey dress to announce her engagement to Prince
William in 2010.
Daniella’sPrincess Collection for Koovs will build on her state-
ment fit-and-flare jersey, with bright fun and flamboyant prints,
exciting fabrics and the latest young colours and styles. Featuring
baby pink, ‘Kiss Me’ prints, metallics, off the shoulder ruffles and
halter necks in every length from mini to maxi, the collection will
offer something for every woman.
Having returned to fashion last year with her new label
Dhela,this is her first collaboration with Koovs specifically foryoung
style-conscious women in India. Daniella Helayel says: “I started de-
signing to make clothes that made women feel sexy and confident
– clothes that could move seamlessly from daywear to evening,
that looked great and that lasted.I believe that feeling gorgeous,
sophisticated and confident should be accessible to every woman.”
Mary Turner, CEO Koovs, says: “The Duchess and Pippa have
become global style icons and what they wear is watched all over
the world. We are delighted to take that inspiration with our first
Princess Collection for India and we will beexcited to reveal all in
May – so watch this space.”
Kate Middleton and A-List designer-favourite Daniella Helayel
collaborates with Koovs for The Princess Collection
NEWS
21March 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com
The wheel of retailing keeps on rotating but not necessarily in
the same place. From the first retail concept i.e. Barter system to
the latest lifestyle retail concept, retailing of apparelhas changed
significantly with time. Retailers were basically purchasing agents
for the residents of a specific locality or area, reflecting closely
those customers’ life-styles, brand preferences, shopping hours
etc. Indian Apparel is the largest segment of the Indian Textile and
Clothing Industry (ITC); accounts 60-65% of the total Industry. Fur-
thermore, it is one of the largest sources of foreign exchange flow
into the country. As per the data published by Ministry of Textiles,
in its annual report 2015-16, India is ranked as 6th largest exporter
of apparel in the world after China, Bangladesh, Vietnam, Germany
and Italy (source: care ratings). Apparel marketof Jammu is flour-
ishing day by day and so are the demands of the customers. To in-
crease my appetite for knowledge for “what customers want”, a
study was conducted in Jammu by interacting with the customers.
This study is qualitative in nature. The population frame is the cus-
tomers of the lifestyle retail store of Jammu in India. The data were
collected through focus group interviews. 10 focus group inter-
views were conducted at thedifferent place across Jammu region.
Out of 10 focus group interviews, 6 focus groups were females and
4 were that of males. Age of the females varies from 19 years to
45 whereas the age of the males varies from 20-30. Each group
comprised of 5-7 homogeneous participants. The focus group in-
terviews were unstructured and moderator started the discussion
by commenting on the topic to which the participants reacted.
Moderator first introduced herself to the participants and the ob-
jective of conducting theinterview was stated to them. The time
frame of each focus-group interview was up to 35-45 minutes. The
moderator intervened only when there was silence in the group so
that the discussion can be carried on. No more than 10 questions
were asked by the moderator. All the interviews were conducted
in person and discussions were audio-recorded. The following is
atranscription of a focused group interview:
“Good Morning and welcome to our session. In order to find
out factors that influence the customers ‘choice of apparellifestyle
retail store, I invite all of you to participate in this session. I want
to know what are your preferences for apparel stores and which
factors impact your choice of apparel store. I will be having discus-
sions like this with several groups of both the gender. You were
selected on the basis of purposeful. There are no right and wrong
answers but somewhat different points of view. Feel free to share
your point of view even if it differs from what others have said.
I will be tape recording the session so that all valuable com-
ments don’t get missed. Participants often share very useful things
in these discussions and I may not be able to pen down all the im-
portant points. Only one person will speak at a point and there is no
need to get aggressive, all of you will be given enough time to ex-
press your point of views. You don’t have to agree with what oth-
ers are saying, but you must listen patiently as others share their
views. I will start with the person sitting on the right. First of all give
a brief introduction of yourself, your name, age, gender, area, and
income. Introduce yourself one by one and as the introduction is
done, we will start with the discussion. I as a moderator will guide
you at the time of requirement. I won’t interfere much. Now, you
can start the discussion.”
Ten focus groups interviews were conducted on the same top-
ic. These interviews were conducted for several days and enough
time was provided to each focus group so that all the participants
can speak. It takes more than one focus group on any one topic to
produce valid results – usually three or four. The focus group mod-
erator responsibly covered all the questions in thetime allotted.
The quality of the data obtained from an in-depth interview
or focus group is based upon the level of thought involved in the
development of the questions (Patton, 2002). There are six main
types of open-ended in-depth interview or focus groups questions:
(1) experience or behavior questions, (2) sensory questions, (3)
opinion or value questions, (4) knowledge questions, (5) feeling
questions, and (6) background or demographic questions (Patton,
2002). Experience or behavior questions are intended to get at an
interviewee’s actions, either past or present. In particular, a partici-
pant’s answers should reflect a direct observation that could have
been made by watching the participant. These kinds of questions
are often followed by sensory questions. This is a useful question-
ing technique as such questions focus on things that the inter-
viewee has actually experienced, and can help them to better recall
other experiences. Opinion or value questions are designed to elicit
interviewees’ knowledge of a specific phenomenon or experience
and provide useful insight into their goal. Knowledge questions
seek factual information from interviewees. Feeling questions are
intended to produce a narrative of an emotion from the partici-
pant.Background or demographic questions are useful for the char-
acterization of the people participating in the in-depth interview or
focus group (Patton, 2002).
Once the in-depth interview or focus group questions are
drafted, it is significant to make sure that they conform to a few
guidelines. First, the questions should be open-ended and neutral.
This means that the questions should neither make an assumption
about what the interviewee thinks about the topic nor should they
offer any clues as to what the interviewer hopes the interviewee
will say. Second, the questions should focus on one topic at a time.
The questions should not dichotomous. Third, your questions, as
well as the topic, should not be vague, there should be clarity in the
questions (Patton, 2002). The key to achieving this is to think care-
fully about the kind of information you anticipate from each ques-
tion in the in-depth interview question guide. With the question
wording finalized, the questions should be in a coherent order. The
interviewer needs to guide the participants through the questions.
The main questions that were asked were:
What kind of apparel stores do you prefer?; What are major
Jammu Apparel Market
COVER STORY
Dr. Hari Govind Mishra
Assistant Professor
School of Business
Faculty of Management
Shri Mata Vaishno Devi University, Katra, JK
22 March 2017www.textilevaluechain.com
components that you consider before buying apparel?Are these
factors interlinked to each other?From which store do you often
shop?Why that particular store?Is there anything that you would
like to add? ”
These set of questions were mainly asked by the moderators.
We will come to know that enough data has been collected when
we stop hearing anything new anymore, i.e. the point of satura-
tion. The saturation of data occurs when repetition of data starts
to happen.
The study reveals that demographic factors of consumers do
influence apparel retail store choice. It was also observed that re-
tail store choice is a hierarchical process which not only depends
on demographic attributes but also on the current needs of a con-
sumer. Fashion consciousness and comfort seeking are the signifi-
cant predictors for apparel store choice decisions. Social factors,
family, brand conscious, thelocation of thestore and price are
significant predictors for lifestyle store choice decisions. All these
variable such as society, fashion, culture, uniqueness, family, brand
and price are the major lifestyle factors. We can say that customer’s
lifestyle is based on these factors and choose their lifestyle store on
the basis of these factors. It was also found that factors like situa-
tion specific and retail store attributes impact customers’ choice.
The overall results of this study show that apparel shoppers are
influenced by various factors in choosing a store. No single retail
factor seems to be dominant in meeting consumer needs/wants,
all the factors play anequivalent role in choosing a lifestyle retail
store. Consumer’s socio-economic, demographic and geographic
and personal characteristics have significant association with the
choice of retail store Consumers focus on factors like Brand avail-
ability, fashion, trend/style, price, variety of merchandise, comfort,
store location, social status, and hedonism or recreation and then
move into a particular store within the format where they can save
time, money and effort.
This study also provides valuable information to retailers in re-
lation to customersapparel store choice in Indian lifestyle goods
retailing. Understanding how preferences vary with consumer fac-
tors is a key element in developing successful retail marketing strat-
egies. It can be inferred that it is also possible to affect the orienta-
tions of the shoppers by offering modern retail formats.
These findings would enable retailers to develop an effective
marketing strategy to optimize the use of marketing and promo-
tional resources in meeting the needs of discerning target custom-
ers. With the intensified level of competition in today’s apparel
market, an increasing number of stores are currently facing difficul-
ties in operating profitability. These retailersneed to adjust market
communications and repositioning themselves to retain the exist-
ing and attracting potential customers.
India’s 62% of the population is in the working age group and
more than 54% is below the age of 25. The labour force in the com-
ing twenty year is estimated to decrease by 4% while that in India is
expected to increase by 32%. It could be a challenge for the Govern-
ment to provide jobs for such huge numbers.The Prime Minister’s
vision of Make in India is aimed at creating jobs for millions in the
coming years. This is supported by Skill India Mission which aims to
train 1 crore people by 2020 to cater to the new jobs being created.
There are a number of Training Providers and certifying agencies
conducting training/Skilling programmes of a vast variety in the
country. This also brings the need to standardise the skilling eco-
system so that all trainee certified skilled for a particular job role by
different agencies are considered at par.
Ministry of Skill Development  Entrepreneurship aims to do
this through National Skills Qualification Frameworkwhich explains
the governing guidelines for all Skill Development course in the
Country.The Ministry of Finance, through its notification number
No. 8/6/2013-Invt.dated 27th December, 2013 has notified that
National Skills Qualification Framework (NSQF) will be applica-
ble since December 2013 and all other frameworks, including the
NVEQF (National Vocational Educational Qualification Framework)
released by the Ministry of HRD, cease to exist, and are superseded
by the NSQF. The Notification entitles NSQF compliant training/
educational programmes/courses to receive government funding
on a preferential basis since December 2013.
After the third anniversary date of the notification of the
NSQF,(December, 2016), Government funding would not be avail-
able for any training/ educational programme/ course which is not
NSQF-compliant and all government-funded training and educa-
tional institutions shall define eligibility criteria for admission to
various courses in terms of NSQF levels. The recruitment rules of
the Government of India and the public sector enterprises of the
central government shall also be amended to define eligibility crite-
ria for all positions in terms of NSQF levels. State Governments shall
be encouraged to amend their recruitment rules as well as those
of their public sector enterprises to define eligibility criteria for all
positions in terms of NSQF levels. After the fifth anniversary date
of the notification of the NSQF it shall be mandatory for all train-
ing/educational programmes/courses to be NSQF-compliant and all
training and educational institutions shall define eligibility criteria
for admission to various courses in terms of NSQF levels.
A register of all NSQF approved qualifications will be available
at www.nqr.gov.inThe institutions wishing to avail Government
funding for Skilling must align their courses to NSQF approved
qualifications. They may contact the respective awarding bodies
(SSCs/NCVT) for this. The details of Sector Skill Councils (SSCs) are
available at www.nsdcindia.org
The author is working with the Textile Sector Skill Council (TSC)
which is mandated to develop Skill Ecosystem for Textile Mill and
handloom Sector. Further details on TSC may be accessed at www.
texskill.in or writing to info@texskill.in
NSQF level compliance of Skill Development courses
Dr. Swapna Mishra (Director)
Textile Sector Skill Council (TSC)
COVER STORY
HR FOCUS
23March 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com
UNITED NATIONS: India has ranked a lowly 131 among the 188
countries surveyed for human development, a new UN report
has said, bracketing the third-largest Asian economy alongside its
South Asian neighbours like Pakistan, Bhutan and Nepal.
India has made no improvement in its ranking over the previ-
ous year, despite the Human Development Report for 2015 noting
that foreign direct investment favours countries such as China and
India.
India’s Human Development Index rank in 2014 was also 131.
However, 63 per cent Indians were “satisfied” with their stand-
ard of living in 2014-15, the latest report found.
The report, released annually by the UN Development Pro-
gramme, said India’s rank of 131 puts it in the “medium human de-
velopment” bracket, which also includes nations like Bangladesh,
Bhutan, Pakistan, Kenya, Myanmar and Nepal.
India’s HDI rank value in 2015 stood at 0.624, which had in-
creased from 0.580 in 2010.
Its life expectancy at birth stood at 68.3 years in 2015 and the
Gross National Income (GNI) per capita $5,663, the report said.
On the perception of feeling safe 69 per cent answered “yes”,
while on freedom of choice, 72 per cent female responders an-
swered they were “satisfied” as compared to 78 per cent for male.
India’s score for overall life satisfaction was 4.3 on a scale of
1-10, according to the report.
On perceptions about government, 69 per cent said they had
trust in the national government for the 2014-15 period while 74 per
cent said they had confidence in the judicial system.
It lauded measures like the National Rural Employment Guaran-
tee Programme taken in India to generate employment.
“Creating jobs through a public works programme targeted at
poor people can reduce poverty through income generation, build
physical infra- structure and protect poor people against shocks.
The National Rural Employment Guarantee Programme in India and
the Rural Employment Opportunities for Public Assets Programme
in Bangladesh are prime examples.”
The report noted that increasing clean energy investments in
India by 1.5 per cent of GDP a year for 20 years will generate a net
increase of about 10 million jobs annually in the country, after fac-
toring in job losses from retrenchments in the fossil fuel industries.
The report launched in Stockholm yesterday found that al-
though the average human development improved significantly
since 1990, progress is uneven, with systemic discrimination against
women, indigenous peoples and ethnic minorities.
It said while many people have greater access to education,
health and sanitation, more focus needs to be paid to who has
been excluded and why.
“By eliminating deep, persistent, discriminatory social norms
and laws, and addressing the unequal access to political participa-
tion, which have hindered progress for so many, poverty can be
eradicated and a peaceful, just, and sustainable development can
be achieved for all,” said UNDP Administrator Helen Clark.
Titled Human Development for Everyone, the report authored
by the Director of the Human Development Report Office SelimJa-
han, said that one in three people worldwide continue to live at a
low level of human development.
Women and girls are systematically excluded by economic, po-
litical, social and cultural barriers, according to the report measured
by the Human Development Index - a ranking of countries based on
strides made with a peace-centric model of progress.
“Women tend to be poorer, earn less, and have fewer opportu-
nities in most aspects of life than men,” it said.
The report also points to “dangerous practices,” such as female
genital mutilation and forced marriage, which continue to hamper
the development of women and their inclusion in society.
In addition to women and girls, the report points to “patterns
of exclusion and lack of empowerment” of people in rural areas,
indigenous peoples, ethnic minorities, people with disabilities, mi-
grants and refugees, and members of the lesbian,gay, bisexual,
transgender and intersex community.
The report calls for far greater attention to empowering the
most marginalised in society, and recognises the importance of giv-
ing them greater voice in decision-making processes.
India, the third-largest Asian economy, ranked
131 on Human Development Index: UN
Protective works wear for workers working in cement industry
Prof (Dr) M.S.Parmar, Shweta Saxena and Vasundhara Verma
Northern India Textile Research Association,
Sector-23, Rajnagar, Ghaziabad-201002, U.P, India
The demand of cement requirement is increasing every year in
India. At present, the capacity of cement production in India is 390
million tones, which is expected to further increase due to govern-
ment’s push for large infrastructure projects. With the increase
in use of Portland cement in India, its adverse effect on health of
workers working in cement construction sites and manufacturing
industries has become a burning issue. Thousands of construction
workers are exposed to concrete every day without knowing its
harmful effect on their health. Cement is chemical and highly alka-
line in nature. At wet stage, the pH of cement is more than 12.9, has
the ability to create third degree burns. When the skin of worker,
come in regular contact of this wet concrete, it may get affected
and resulted dermatitis. Signs and symptoms of dermatitis can in-
clude itching, redness, swelling, blisters, scaling and other changes
HR FOCUS
TECHNICAL TEXTILE
24 March 2017www.textilevaluechain.com
in the normal conditions of skin.
In India, workers are still not provided proper protective work
wear while working in cement related work especially during the
use of concrete. Therefore, to understand the performance re-
quirements on the fabric for cement workers protective clothing, a
survey was conducted by NITRA on DMRC, NDMC, PWD and private
builders. Workers of some cement manufacturing units were also
surveyed to gather information related to protective work wear. It
was found by survey that most of the agencies are not providing
suitable protective work wear to the workers. A few of the agencies
are providing cotton gloves, masks and reflective jackets, which are
not sufficient to protect them from cement dust and slurry. To pre-
vent cement dust, cement porters/workers generally wear multiple
layers of garments. But these layering of garments do not give full
proof prevention from cement dust. It was also reveled from the
survey that they were having good health before joining this trade.
But after joining this trade they began to show symptom of eyes
swelling, respiratory problems, skin burning etc.
Requirement Priority order Performance Purpose
Protection
1 Dustproof property To avoid cement dust contacting with
skin
2 Strength  Abrasion resistance
including UV resistance
To resist the friction in particular
position
Comfort
3 Thermal-Moisture equilibrium* (Wa-
ter vapour or moisture permeability)
To maintain thermal moisture com-
fort
4 Appropriate weight and thickness To avoid additional load
Other 5 Easy-washing  Quick drying Convenient for maintenance
6 Colour Fit for the working environment
7 Cost Work wear should have low cost
Synthetics grey fabrics production down upto 30%, yarn
price reversed
Because of workers shortage and decreased demand in fin-
ished fabrics, the production of polyester raw grey fabrics is re-
duced by almost 30% in Surat. Ahead of Holi festival, the exodus of
the workers has hit hard the powerloom and processing industries.
Sources said, out of 10 lakh workers employed in the textile sector,
over three lakh have moved out of the city due to assembly elec-
tion in Uttar Pradesh and the Holi-Dhuleti festival. There are over
1.5 lakh workers have yet to return. About 30% powerloom factories
are operating in one shift only. The weavers are also not interested
to increase the production. They are purchasing yarn as per the
requirement instead of stocking. Decreased number of orders and
crude oil pressure has reversed the synthetic yarn price. In the last
week of March, the crude oil prices remained close to 48 dollar. The
prices of raw materials of synthetic yarn PTA stood at Rs.50/kg and
MEG Rs.56/kg. Various denniers of synthetics yarn declined by Rs. 3
to 5 per Kg. Benchmark 80 crimp yarn prices came down to Rs.112/
kg from Rs.116/117 in the first week of March. 80/72 semidal Roto
yarn prices stood at Rs.113/114/kg. down by Rs. 4/kg. To stabilise the
prices, the sppinners has declared repeat sale in POY and texurised
yarn in second week of March, but now they are offering under ta-
ble discount to clear the stocks. The weavers are expecting that
reverse trend in yarn prices will remain countinue in April month
due to heavy decline in crude oil prices in the international market.
No excise duty on ‘sari’, a big relief for Surat textile traders
By considering the representation made by various local textile
and industrial organisation, the Central Board of Excise and Cus-
toms (CBEC) has issued a notification, by which it has kept ‘sari’ out
of the ambit of made-ups, which attract 2 per cent excise duty on
retail price above Rs1,000. Surat textile industries has welcomed
this decision as it is a big relief for the traders.
The CBEC issued a circular dated March 15, 2017 for classifying
‘sari’ under chapter 50,52 and 54 of the CETA Act, 1985 and not un-
der chapter 63, which attracts duty on the ready-made garments
and made-ups.
Earlier, textile traders were upset following the decision taken
by the Central Government to levy excise duty on articles of tex-
tiles, including ready-made garments and made-ups above Rs1,000.
Federation of Surat Textile Traders Association (FOSTTA) and
Southern Gujarat Chamber of Commerce and Industry (SGCCI)
strongly oppose the decision and has made a representation to the
central govt. for keeping ‘sari’ out of the ambit of the excise duty
levy on retail price of Rs1,000.
City’s textile group aided Uri martyrs’ kin
Surat textile group Madhu Priya Fashions Private Limited has
facilitated the family members of martyrs of Uri attack in JK. The
group has organised an event to celebrate its 15 years long business
journey in which it has given financial assistance of Rs. ten lakh to
47 family members of martyrs. Company’s chairman and director
Vinod Agarwal said, our soldiers are our real heroes. Last year, 18
soldiers martyred fighting the terrorists. He said, “ we thought of
inviting the family members of our brave soldiers martyred in our
celebration instead of any celebrities.” They decided to help the
families of all the martyrs who laid down their lives to protect our
borders. This will leave a message among textile industry people to
work for the shattered families of our martyrs. A day long cultural
programme was also organised during the event.
Surat to get centre of excellence for textile sector
Country’s largest man-made fabric (MMF) center, Surat can be
declared centre of excellence in the near future. This centre will
SURAT REPORT
TECHNICAL TEXTILE
25March 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com
help to conduct research and development of MMF fabrics.
During the 3 days Surat International Textile Expo (SITEX) or-
ganised by Southern Gujarat Chamber of Commerce and Industry
(SGCCI), minister of state for textiles Mr. Ajay Tamta said, the min-
istry is considering to provide a centre of excellence and establish-
ing a textile park at Pinjrat in the city. The textile minister will visit
Surat textile industries on 1st April. The minister will present solar
scheme for weaving industries. It is also expected that the minister
will announce a centre of excellence and a mega textile park at Su-
rat. Earlier, The SGCCI has submitted a proposal for allocation of 80
lakh square meters of land for the mega textile park and to estab-
lished the centre of excellence. It will help the MMF sector develop
and manufacture different varieties of fabrics that have potential in
the domestic as well as the international markets.
In January 2007, the Planning Commission of India had called a
meeting in New Delhi to assess why the Textile Industries are strug-
gling and why the second largest sector in India after agriculture
was failing to modernise despite pumping-in a huge amount of
money under Technology Upgradation Funds Scheme (TUFS) and
its later variants.
The apex body, which has now been renamed as Niti Aayog,
was shocked to learn that out of the total 22.5 lakh only about 1.5
lakhs are modern and shuttleless machines, rest all are plain pow-
erlooms. It was during this meeting that Malegaon Industries 
Manufacturers Association (MIMA) for the first time proposed that
a new scheme should be designed and implemented on trial basis
in select Textile Clusters.
I was leading the MIMA delegation in that meeting. Participat-
ing in the debate we said that owing to the challenges and diffi-
culties which the weavers were facing it would not be possible to
modernize the entire 22.5 lakh plain looms all at onceas the gov-
ernment wished. Simultaneously, as a parallel solution to the prob-
lem the industry was facing because of discarded machineries, we
proposed that the Ministry of Textiles along with the Technology
Upgradation Funds Scheme (TUFS) should also provide financial
support to the weavers, who were not in a position to buy new
modern machines, in upgradingtheir existing plain looms and con-
verting them into Semi-Automatic looms.
The proposal was received with a lukewarm response while the
officials insisted on replacing all running plain looms with new rapi-
er, water-jet, air-jet or other machineries to meet what they called
the looming global challenges.
Sometimes in 2009 the Planning Commission of India again
called a meeting with the same agenda. Interestingly, the Minis-
try of Textiles could not present any significant improvement in its
data of 2007 and the number of modern machines remained more
or less the same. By this time we had summed up all the minute
details of our proposal, also adding to it the necessary data to show
its feasibilityand an overview of the expected results the industry
would get after the plain looms were converted into Semi-Auto-
matic looms. After a heated discussion, it was finally agreed upon
that the proposal should be thoroughly studied and a draft of the
proposed scheme should be prepared on emergency basis.
After a series of meetings at Textile Commissioner Office in
Mumbai and with active support from Additional Textile Commis-
sioner S Balaraju and his juniors a draft of the scheme was finally
prepared which after some amendment was launched in October
2013 as “Pilot Scheme on In-situ Upgradation of Plain Powerloom
for SSI Powerloom Sector”.
The scheme was initially launched in six clusters – Malegaon
and Nagpur in Maharashtra, Bhagalpur in Bihar, Burhanpur in Mad-
hya Pradesh, Sircilla in Andhra Pradesh and Tanda in Uttar Pradesh,
on pilot basis. However, Bhiwandi and Ichalkiranji – two of the
country’s major textile clusters, were also added in the list later on.
As per the scheme, the Ministry of Textiles agreed to bear the
50% cost of the updragation kit worth Rs.30,000/- to be fitted in
one plain loom. It was also agreed that a weaver would need to
install these upgradation kits in at least 08 looms which are running
in a single shed.The kit in itself included weft stop motion, warp
stop motion, semi positive let-off motion, efficient braking device,
and in some cases self-lubricating nylon parts, anti-crack device and
dobby.
Soon after the Ministry of Textiles launched the In-situ scheme,
the Maharashtra government also flung into action and agreed to
provide special subsidy of Rs.10,000/- per upgradation kit, taking
the total amount of government fund to Rs.25,000/- for a kit cost-
ing Rs.30,000/-
By all accounts, the decisions by Ministry of Textiles, New Delhi
and Government of Maharashtra were momentous for the textile
industry and the weavers across the six clusters were enthusiastic.
During the implementation mode things became simpler after the
Ministry of Textiles agreed to transfer the subsidy amount directly
to the account of registered suppliers instead of giving them to the
weavers.
According to a rough estimate, more than 10,000 looms in the
eight clusters were ready for upgradation within one month of
the launch of the In-situ scheme. The weavers just needed to pay
Rs.5000/- per kit and their plain looms were convertedinto Semi-
Automatic machines. Fast installation of the kits, improved quality
of fabrics and increased production all lured more and more weav-
ers to fall inline and go for upgradation. The officials of the Textile
Commissioner Office, especially Ravi Kumar, Subbayyan S, T Nagraj
and DP Sharma were all seen shuttling from one textile cluster to
another to make things easier for the weavers and kit suppliers.
The then Textile Commissioner Kiran Soni Gupta, Additional Textile
Commissioner S Balarajuand others were all overwhelmedby the
response.
Everything was going on quiet smoothly, in fact beyond every-
A little effort by Maharashtra Govt can still
make In-situ Scheme a game changer
Mr. Aleem Faizee
MARKET REPORT
26 March 2017www.textilevaluechain.com
one’s expectation. Thencame the shocker, and it was something
nobody in the industrywas prepared to face. The Central Govern-
ment had released its share of the funds to the suppliers. But, the
Maharashtra government after releasing funds initially could not
do so citing “technical” reasons, forcing the suppliers to stop sup-
ply of the kits. Installation of the kits going on with significant pace
came to a sudden halt. This was in 2015 and the situation remains
so even today.
But, if the Maharashtra government still takes a decision and
step to release the dues of the suppliersclearing the technical hur-
dles, the In-situ scheme could again be brought on track and made
to work as game changer in the time of existing crisis.For, the fab-
rics produced on the plain looms fitted with In-situ upgradation kits
are still in demand and the suppliers, almost broken becauseof the
long delay in the release of their money, too are ready to give the
implementation of the scheme one more chance.
“We have incurred huge losses because of the delay. But, we
are still ready to work with the Ministry of Textiles if our dues are
cleared, and assurance is given that whatever happened in the past
would not be repeated again”, a supplier said on the condition of
anonymity.
CMAI Organised a Seminar on Labour Law  Important Acts
The Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI) organised a Seminar by Mr Talakshi Dharod of M/S T R Dharod of Labour 
Industrial Law Consultant, on Labour Laws, Important Acts such as ESI, PF, Bonus and Gratuity, on March 3, 2017, at Koshish Hall, Daftary
Road, Malad (E), which was attended by more than 200 Garment Manufacturers.
“The Indian Economy is now
moving towards becoming a
Cashless Economy and it is nec-
essary that the Apparel Indus-
try brings transparency in their
Business,” said Mr Dharod. He
captured the attention of more
than 200 Garment Manufactur-
ers who had gathered to hear
him speak on Matters related to
Employees’ State Insurance Cor-
poration (ESIC), Employees Prov-
ident Fund (EPF), Payment of
Wages to Labour, etc. ESIC: Em-
ployees’ State Insurance Scheme
is a social security system tailored to provide socio-economic pro-
tection to Employees and their dependants covered under the
Scheme. Mr Dharod said that the ESIS is mandatory when an Gar-
ment Manufacturer has more than 10 Employees (Gross salary upto
R21,000/- p.m.) if not implemented, he could face arrest. The Gar-
ment Manufacturer is liable to pay 4.75 per cent of the gross salary
as his Contribution for every Employee and deduct 1.75 per cent as
the Employee’s contribution from the wages bill and pay these con-
tributions to the ESIC. The ESIC benefits that an Employee can avail
are: Medical Benefit, Sickness Benefit, Maternity Benefit, Disable-
ment Benefit, Dependants’ Benefit and Funeral Expenses. EPF: Mr
Dharod said that the EPF Act is mandatory when the Garment Man-
ufacturer has more than 20 employees. The Garment Manufacturer
is liable to pay 13.36 per cent of the gross salary as his contribution
for every employee and deduct 12 per cent as the employee’s con-
tribution. The benefits for the employee are: Accumulation
plus Interest upon retirement, resignation or death. Partial
withdrawals allowed for specific expenses such as marriages, ill-
ness, education, etc. In case of death, his Family will get a month-
ly pension. Mr
Dharod also brief-
ly touched upon
the Payment of
Bonus Act and
Gratuity Act. The
Seminar ended
with a Q A ses-
sion wherein Mr
Dharod answered
the queries of the
Members.
Today ‘Solar Energy’ has established itself as one of the most
potential non-conventional energy resources to steadily replace
conventional energy sources such as the hydro electricity and ther-
mal power, as the production of conventional energy is not likely
to meet future electricity demand of the world. The availability
of natural fuel such as coal, gas, oil is limited and also the power
generation using that fuel creates pollution into the atmosphere.
There are plenty of other environment friendly sources such as sun-
light and air which are rarely being used to generate power. Many
organizations have already started thinking about the alternative
energy resources and embracing solar energy. Besides being cost
effective the technology also saves the planet as it is complete pol-
lution-free.
In view of the above scenario and also for promoting ‘Green
Power’, Northern India Textile Research Association, popularly
known as NITRA, Ghaziabad, has decided to install Grid-connected
Roof-top Solar Power Plant at its building. The plant is estimated to
be fulfilling about 60%-70% of NITRA’s total power consumption in
first phase. This effort, in turn, will also reduce the pollution which
is quite prevalent in NCR and would help NITRA comply with its
social responsibility. In addition to that, this move will encourage
the textile and garment units to install solar power plant, many of
those have already installed in their units.
NITRA Embraces Green Power, Goes the Solar Way!
MARKET REPORT
27March 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com
India’s overall export grow for 5th
straight month
India’s merchandise export was up in January 2017 with value
at US$22.11 billion (INR150,560 crore), up 4.32 per cent (5.6 per
cent higher in INR terms) compared to the levels in January 2016.
Total exports for the period April-January 2016-17 was up 1.09 per
cent at US$220.92 billion (INR1,484,473 crore, up 4.5 per cent) over
the same period last year. Imports in January 2017 were valued at
US$31.96 billion (INR217,557 crore) and were 10.7 per cent higher
(12.1 per cent higher in INR terms) over the level of imports in Janu-
ary 2016. Cumulative imports for the period April-January 2016-17
was at US$307.31 billion, down 5.8 per cent (INR2,065,656 crore,
down 2.6 per cent) over the same period last year.
Crude oil imports were up 61.1 per cent in January 2017 and fell
5.8 per cent during April-January 2016-17. In similar comparison,
non-oil imports were 0.01 per cent higher in January 2017 and 5.8
per cent lower in April-January 2016-17.
As a result, trade deficit for April-January, 2016-17 was at
US$86.39 billion, which was lower than the deficit of US$107.74 bil-
lion in April-January, 2015-16.
India’s yarn export to china rises in January
Spun yarn exports in January 2017 surged 22.6 per cent in vol-
ume terms and rose 29.7 per cent in value terms. Spun yarn (all
kinds) shipments were at 136.4 million kg worth US$386.8 million
or INR2,600 crore, implying per unit realization of US$2.84 per kg
which was up US cent 1 from previous month and rose US cents 16
as compared to January 2016.
India’s yarn import to China continued to increase in January,
however yarns from Pakistan to China were more slightly dropping
in the meantime whereas products from Vietnam and Indonesia
were still stable.
A. Spun Yarn Exports - By Port
‘000 Kgs Rs crore Mln US$
Jan-16 Jan-17 Jan-16 Jan-17 Jan-16 Jan-17
Mundra 18,965 34,460 322.4 632.7 48.36 94.11
Tuticorin Sea 16,170 24,529 335.9 505.0 50.34 75.11
JNPT 17,727 21,891 316.2 417.4 47.42 62.08
Madras Sea 15,662 15,442 244.0 275.7 36.58 41.00
Pipavav 7,432 12,181 127.3 235.1 19.08 34.97
Marripalam
ICD
2,744 5,680 40.4 96.8 6.06 14.39
Mandideep 3,329 4,246 65.6 87.8 9.84 13.06
Krishnapa-
tanam
610 4,710 8.3 81.4 1.24 12.10
Cochin Sea 3,744 2,842 84.0 72.2 12.57 10.73
Ludhiana ICD 13,930 1,813 250.9 35.7 37.63 5.30
Nagpur 977 1,967 15.7 32.0 2.36 4.76
Petrapole
Road
2,120 1,302 46.0 31.6 6.91 4.70
Vizag Sea 911 1,786 13.6 29.3 2.03 4.35
Kattupalli 590 1,057 8.6 23.7 1.28 3.52
Delhi TKD
ICD
3,721 1,104 63.6 12.7 9.55 1.89
Tuticorin ICD 417 468 9.5 12.4 1.43 1.84
Hyderabad
ICD
1,143 465 18.3 9.9 2.75 1.48
Ahmedabad
ICD
571 398 10.2 7.6 1.52 1.13
Tondiarpet
ICD
532 60 7.9 1.1 1.18 0.16
Ankleshwar 19 0.4 0.05
Grand Total
1,11,296 1,36,420 1,988.5 2,600.4 298.14 386.75
In January 2017, 87 countries imported spun yarn from India,
with China at the top accounting for 35 per cent of the total value
with imports surging 56.1 per cent in terms of volume YoY and ris-
ing 69.9 per cent in value YoY. Bangladesh was the second largest
importer of spun yarns in January and accounted for around 13.8
per cent of all spun yarn exported from India. Export to Bangladesh
declined 13 per cent in volumes and 2.1 per cent lower in value.
Pakistan was the third largest importer of spun yarns, which
saw volume rising 83.4 per cent while it was up 98 per cent in value.
These three top importers together accounted for around 55.9 per
cent of all spun yarns exported from India in January.
Cotton yarn export was at 117.6 million kg in January with 77
countries importing yarn worth US$336.0 million (INR2,259 crore).
The average unit price realization was at US$2.86 a kg, down US
cent 1 from previous month and up US cents 19 from the same
month a year ago.
China was the largest importer of cotton yarn from India in Jan-
uary, followed by Bangladesh and Pakistan. The top three together
accounted for more than 62 per cent of cotton yarn with combined
volume at 76.1 million kg worth US$208.9 million.
Hong Kong, USA, Thailand, Brazil and Ukraine were among the
fastest growing markets for cotton yarn, and accounted for 5.7 per
cent of total cotton yarn export value. Eighteen new destinations
were added for cotton yarn export, of which, North Korea, Chile,
Russia and Denmark were the major ones.
Five countries did not import any cotton yarn from India, includ-
ing Finland, Costa Rica, Sudan and Honduras. They had imported
yarns worth US$0.69 million in January 2016. In January 2017, sig-
nificant deceleration was seen in export to Argentina, Romania,
United Arab Emirates, France and Canada.
Combed cotton yarn accounted for 59.3 per cent of cotton yarn
exported in January with volumes at 63.1 million kg worth US$199.2
million. Carded yarn export was at 37.9 million kg. Their respec-
tive unit value realization was US$3.16 per kg and US$2.55 per kg.
Open ended yarn export was at 8.4 million kg at an average price
of US$1.78 a kg.
YnFx Export watch report
– February 2017
Vidya Vadgaonkar
Email: Vidya@ynfx.com
Tel: +91 22 66291122
Mobile: +91 9619 293725
YARN REPORT
28 March 2017www.textilevaluechain.com
Manmade fibre yarns export continueS uptrend
100% man-made fibre yarns export was at 7.2 million kg in Janu-
ary, comprising 3.90 million kg of polyester yarn, 2.59 million kg
of viscose yarn and 0.70 million kg of acrylic yarn. Polyester yarn
exports were up 29.7 per cent in value while viscose yarn exports
value rose 13.4 per cent during the month. Acrylic yarn exports
plunged 56.5 per cent in January. Unit price realization was up
US cents 3 a kg for polyester from a year ago and that of viscose
yarn fell US cents 2 a kg. Acrylic yarn unit price realization declined
US$0.86 a kg year on year basis.
Polyester spun yarns were exported to 39 countries in Janu-
ary aggregating US$8.5 million with unit price realization averag-
ing US$2.19 a kg. A total of 3.90 million kg was exported, of which,
22.2 per cent was shipped by Turkey alone. Eleven new destinations
were found for polyester yarn this January, of which, Canada, Nige-
ria, Myanmar and Tunisia were the major ones.
Viscose yarn export was valued at US$7.85 million or INR52.8
crore and volume at 2.59 million kg, implying average unit price
realization of US$3.03 per kg. They were exported to 22 countries
with Belgium at the top worth US$2.44 million. It was followed by
Brazil with imports worth US$0.99 million. Both these markets ac-
counted for 42.9 per cent of all viscose yarn exported in January.
Morocco, Poland, Belgium, Egypt and Italy were the fastest grow-
ing markets for viscose yarns while Brazil, Portugal, Guatemala,
South Africa and Ukraine were the new major markets. Pakistan,
Saudi Arabia and Turkmenistan did not import any viscose yarns
during the month.
Blended yarns export falls
Blended spun yarns export was worth US$32.9 million in Janu-
ary, down 6.5 per cent YoY while volumes were down 7.1 per cent
at 11.62 million kg. During the month, 5.5 million kg of PC yarns was
exported worth US$14.4 million. Another 4.1 million kg of PV yarns
valued at US$10.8 million were exported. Acrylic/cotton yarn prices
were down 3 per cent YoY. In January, 1.64 million kg of other blend
of yarns were exported worth US$6.4 million.
Bangladesh and Brazil were the largest importers of PC yarn
from India in January followed by Egypt. Romania, South Africa,
Belgium, Ukraine and South Korea were the fastest growing mar-
kets for PC yarns while Turkey and Australia significantly reduced its
import of PC yarns from India. Djibouti, Philippines, Venezuela and
United Kingdom were among the 10 countries that did not import
any PC yarns from India during January. Brazil and Italy were the
major destination among the 8 new markets found in January.
In January, US$10.84 million worth of PV yarns were exported
from India with volumes at 4.1 million kgs. Turkey continued to be
largest importer of PV yarns from India followed by Vietnam with
total volume at 2.24 million kg worth at US$5.7 million. Vietnam and
Brazil were the new major markets for PV yarn while 8 countries did
not import any PV yarn during the month, including the major ones
like Uganda and Morocco.
Filament yarns export increases
In January, all types of filament yarns export aggregated 39.8
million kg, up 26.9 per cent YoY while value rose 24.9 per cent to
US$62.2 million. Filament yarns include polyester, nylon, polypro-
pylene and viscose filament yarns and were exported to 73 coun-
tries during the month. More than 89 per cent of filament yarns
were of polyester, of which, DTYs were the largest at 75.1 per cent.
B. Fibre Exports - By Port
‘000 Kgs Rs crore Mln US$
Jan-16 Jan-17 Jan-16 Jan-17
J a n -
16
Jan-17
Mundra 51,519 1,24,749 506.6 1,410.6 75.98 209.92
JNPT 56,494 91,912 539.5 1,031.9 80.92 153.55
Petrapole
Road
15,598 22,553 157.6 266.9 23.67 39.71
Pipavav 11,075 12,433 109.0 142.1 16.36 21.14
Ankleshwar 693 859 7.9 11.3 1.17 1.68
Nagpur 864 1,018 5.7 7.1 0.86 1.06
Hyderabad
ICD
519 7.1 1.06
Vizag Sea 4,077 462 38.3 5.4 5.77 0.81
Tuticorin Sea 109 240 2.0 4.4 0.30 0.65
Krishnapa-
tanam
9,031 307 85.9 3.3 12.89 0.49
Tuticorin ICD 94 2.5 0.38
Ludhiana ICD 548 67 5.6 1.2 0.85 0.18
Ahmedabad
ICD
18 0.2 0.04
Madras Sea 200 26 0.3 0.1 0.04 0.02
Cochin Sea 0 0.0 0.00
Marripalam
ICD
149 1.4 0.21
Grand Total 1,50,356 2,55,259 1,460.0 2,894.3 219.03 430.69
During the month, 38.1 million kg of polyester filament yarns
were exported worth US$55.6 million. Turkey and Bangladesh
continued to be the major importers of polyester filament yarns,
followed by Brazil. The three together accounted for 41.1 per cent
of polyester filament yarn exports Brazil was also the major im-
porter of polyester DTYs while Turkey was the major importer of
PFYs.
Sri Lanka was the major importer of nylon filament yarn in Janu-
ary with volumes at 95,790 kg worth US$0.5 million. In value terms,
USA and Vietnam were the other largest markets for nylon filament
in January, worth US$0.4 million.
Polypropylene filament yarns were exported to 17 countries in
January with volumes at 270,000 kg worth US$0.56 million. USA
was the major importer of PP yarns. Sri Lanka and Oman were the
other major importers of PP filament yarns in January.
Around 1,067,000 kg of viscose filament yarns were exported in
January to 21 countries from India valued at US$4.25 million. During
the month, 177,000 kg of VFYs were exported to Japan. It was fol-
lowed by USA and Czech Republic.
Cotton export surge in January
Cotton fibre export was at 244.8 million kg or 14,39,801 bales
(of 170 kg each) in January which surged 77.2 per cent YoY and was
valued at US$415.7 million, up 106.9 per cent. Bangladesh and
Pakistan were the largest importers of cotton with combined vol-
umes at 8,37,081 bales amongst the 27 countries that imported cot-
YARN REPORT
29March 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com
ton from India.
Exports of manmade fibre were at 10.5 million kg, worth
US$15.03 million. These included ASF, PSF, VSF and PPSF. Bangla-
desh and USA were the largest importers of PSF during January
while Pakistan and USA were also the major importers of VSF, in
similar comparison. Mexico was the dominant buyer of ASF.
C. Filament Exports - By Port
‘000 Kgs Rs crore Mln US$
Jan-16 Jan-17 Jan-16 Jan-17 Jan-16 Jan-17
JNPT 26,916 34,886 265.7 349.2 39.87 51.94
Nagpur
3,017
3,422 23.6 28.1 3.54 4.17
Tuticorin ICD 389 472 15.7 17.4 2.34 2.59
Mundra 444 312 8.5 6.2 1.27 0.92
Tuticorin Sea 280 217 10.0 5.6 1.49 0.83
Pipavav 148 176 4.1 4.3 0.61 0.64
Ahmedabad
ICD
67 192 1.4 3.5 0.21 0.52
Madras Sea 23 80 1.1 1.9 0.16 0.29
Tondiarpet ICD 7 0.7 0.10
Cochin Sea 14 0.3 0.04
Delhi TKD ICD 48 13 1.0 0.2 0.15 0.03
Kattupalli 7 0.2 0.03
Ankleshwar 15 16 0.2 0.2 0.03 0.03
Ludhiana ICD 5 9 0.1 0.1 0.02 0.02
Petrapole Road 18 0.6 0.08
Grand Total 31,369 39,821 331.8 417.9 49.78 62.16
YARN REPORT
POST EVENT REPORT
Mumbai based Indian Society for Cotton Improvement (ISCI)
awarded its fellowship to renowned cotton scientist, Dr. Keshav
Raj Kranthi, Director of ICAR-Central Institute of Cotton Research
(CICR), Nagpur on March 7, 2017 in recognition of his outstanding
contribution in the field of cotton research  development and on
his appointment as Head, Technical Co-ordination Section of the In-
ternational Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC), Washington (D.C.),
USA. A felicitation function on this occasion was jointly organized
by Indian Society for Cotton Improvement (ISCI), ICAR- Central In-
stitute for Research on Cotton Technology (CIRCOT), Confedera-
tion of Indian Textile Industry–Cotton Development  Research As-
sociation (CITI-CDRA) and South Asia Biotechnology Centre (SABC).
Dr. P.G. Patil, Director, ICAR- CIRCOT welcomed all the dignitaries
and guests and apprised them about the significant achievements
of the institute. The fellowship was awarded to Dr. Kranthi by Pad-
ma Vibhushan Dr. Anil Kakodkar, Former Chairman, Atomic Energy
Commission  Secretary to Govt of India who applauded the contri-
bution of Dr. Kranthi in the field of cotton development in India and
wished that he would continue his achievements in the new assign-
ment. Shri Suresh Kotak, Trustee of Kotak Research Foundation,
Mumbai and Chairman, ISCI, praised the contributions of cotton re-
searchers and suggested for development of improved methodolo-
gies to increase the cotton productivity since the land availability is
limited in India. Dr. C.D. Mayee, Former Chairman, ASRB and Presi-
dent, ISCI presided over the function and congratulated Dr. Kranthi
for his key role played in linking the Government and Industry with
the cotton growing farmers. Dr. Kranthi, in his award acceptance
speech, thanked all the well-wishers and promised to continue his
good work for the progress of Indian cotton community. Dr. A.J.
Shaikh, Former Director of ICAR-CIRCOT  Secretary ISCI, delivered
the vote of thanks.
ISCI fellowship award and Felicitation of Dr. K.R. Kranti
30 March 2017www.textilevaluechain.com
Four leading textile research institutes in India viz. BTRA, Mum-
bai, ATIRA, Ahmedabad, SITRA, Coimbatore and NITRA, Ghaziabad
have been organising Joint Technological Conferences over the
years. In this annual event, latest finding of the research programs
with reference to the latest technological developments are dis-
seminated. In this context, 57th Joint Technological Conference
was held at BTRA, Mumbai on 17th and 18th February, 2017. Nearly,
300 delegates from industry, trade and academics participated in
this conference. The highlight of this conference was one full day
on ‘Geosynthetics’, under the sponsorship of Textile Commission-
er’s Office, Ministry of Textiles, GoI and the other day was devoted
to RD in Emerging Areas, Protective Textiles, Product Develop-
ment, Eco-friendly process, etc. related to traditional textiles.
The event was inaugurated by Dr. Kavita Gupta, Textile Com-
missioner, Ministry of Textiles, GoI. Dr. Kavita Gupta, in her inau-
gural address, said that in India only 10% of textile products belong
to technical textiles as compared to developed nations such as
Germany where 50% of textile products belong to technical textile
category. Current market size of technical textiles in India is Rs.
1 lakh crore and the market is growing at 20% CAGR. In order to
grow in high value technical textiles segment, we should focus on
research that is demand based and market driven. Moreover, abil-
ity to translate research output in to commercialisation is the need
of the hour. She stressed the importance of the link between aca-
demia and the industry.
Dr. Anjan K. Mukhopadhyay, Director, BTRA welcomed the
dignitaries and the delegates. He briefed the audience about this
conference profile and said that one full day was devoted to ‘Geo-
synthetics’ that could open up an avenue for the conventional tex-
tile manufacturers to interact with Geosynthetics manufacturers/
users to know the opportunities available in terms of machinery,
processes, etc. to make technical textile products, especially geo-
synthetics. He also said German Textile Machinery Manufacturing
Companies have also taken part in this conference by way of pres-
entations on needle-felt nonwoven and latest machine innovations
on treatment of Geotextiles.
Mr. Narendra Dalmia, Deputy Chairman, Governing Coun-
cil, BTRA presided over the inaugural session. In his presidential
speech, he talked about the research projects of all four TRAs cur-
rently in progress and their findings as well as the operational per-
formance. He said that innovation is the key word and this is where
the Research Associations play an important role and appreciated
excellent work done by all the four TRAs to help the industry in its
goal to have better operational efficiency.
Mr. Rajesh Nath, the Managing Director for VDMA in India made
the Key note address introducing VDMA, Textile Machinery and the
solutions and competence of VDMA members also in the area of
machinery, plants and components for geotextiles applications.
This year, VDMA completes 125 years with its presence in Germany.
With the theme of the event being Geotextiles, he spoke about
Geotextiles being ambitious textile products that are tailor-made
according to the intended application. Depending on application,
the soil quality has also to be considered when choosing geotex-
tile material. Nonwovens, woven and warp-knitted geotextiles, ge-
ogrids, of all geotextiles used around the world, nonwovens were
estimated to make up over 65 % in terms of area. In order to pro-
duce tailor-made geotextiles, appropriate machinery is needed and
VDMA can guide the industry to the right manufacturers as per the
requirement.
Dr. C.R. Prayag, Officiating Director, ATIRA proposed vote of
thanks.
First day proceedings
In this two-day conference, first day was allotted exclusively
for ‘Geosynthetics’ and personnel from geosynthetics manufactur-
ers, users of geosynthetics and TRAs presented their papers. There
were 5 technical sessions in the first day.
In the first session, chaired by Mr. S. Bagli, Chief Technology
Officer, Strata Geosystems, Mumbai, two papers were presented.
One is on ‘Geosynthetics: Challenges in using in Navi Mumbai pro-
jects’ by Prof. Anand.R. Katti, Professor, Datta Meghe College of
Engineering, Navi Mumbai  Managing Director, Nagar Yuwak Shi-
kshan Sanstha, Airoli and another on ‘Application of Geosynthetics
in Canals’ by Mr. Vivek P. Kapadia, Chief Engineer  Addl. Secretary,
Water Resource, Gandhinagar, Gujarat. The papers were well re-
ceived by the audience and good interaction was seen during ques-
tion and answer session.
In the second session, two papers were presented. This session
was chaired by Mr. Vivek P. Kapadia, Chief Engineer  Addl. Secre-
tary, Water Resource, Gandhinagar, Gujarat. The first paper was on
Proceedings of 57th Joint Technological Conference
POST EVENT REPORT
31March 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com
‘Metal net covered sand fill bags for erosion and flood control’ by
Ms. Sonal Kulkarni, Maccaferri Environmental Solutions Pvt. Ltd. ,
Gurgaon and second one was on ‘Geosynthetic systems for coastal
erosion control with case reference of Alleppay Kerala’ by Mr. Ro-
hit Chaturvedi, Vice President Business Development, Flexituff In-
ternational Ltd., Madhya Pradesh.
The third session was chaired by Mr. Guru Vittal, Chief Scientist,
CRRI, New Delhi. The following three papers were presented.
• Strengthening of road subgrade and slope stabilization using
Jute Geosynthetics-Mr. Pradip Kr. Choudhury, Principal Tech-
nologist, National Jute Board, Kolkata
• Geogrids for retaining walls – Mr. Satish Naik, Chief Executive
Officer ,Best Geotechnics Pvt. Ltd, Mumbai
• Geostrap for RE walls – Mr. Mangesh Shinde, Divisional Head
(South  West Region), Reinforced Earth India Pvt. Ltd., Navi
Mumbai
Prof. A. R. Katti, Professor, Datta Meghe College of Engineer-
ing, Navi Mumbai  Managing Director, Nagar Yuwak Shikshan
Sanstha, Airoli, chaired the fourth session. Two papers viz., (i) Re-
habilitation for existing landfills – Mr. Aditya Agarwal, CEO, Jeevan
Products, Navi Mumbai and (ii) Hydraulic properties of geo-textiles:
An experimental study - M/s. Seema Patel, R.V. Chikhani, Rajesh Pa-
tel and Jignesh Patel, ATIRA, were presented.
In the fifth session, Prof. S.G. Vinzenekar, Ex. Principal, VJTI,
Mumbai chaired the proceedings. The following three papers were
presented in this session.
• Challenges and potentials of using Geosynthetics in Road and
Bridges by Mr. P.L. Bongirwar, Retired Principal Secretary, PWD
• Vacuum PVD for fast soil stabilization by Mr. V.V. Vaishampayan,
Managing Director, Soham Foundations, Navi Mumbai
• Geotechnical expertise at BTRA by Mr. Sri Ramchandran, BTRA
Second day proceedings
In the second day, there were 7 technical sessions. Papers
from all four TRAs were presented in the areas of protective tex-
tiles, emerging areas, spinning, product development, eco-friendly
products, etc. In the end, there was a special session by German
Textile Machinery (VDMA), in which two papers were presented.
The focus of the First session was ‘Emerging Areas’ chaired by
Dr. M.K. Talukdar, Kusumgar Corporates Pvt. Ltd., Mumbai. There
were three papers in this session and all were from BTRA. Titles
were as follows.
• Use of electron beam irradiation for solution of biodegrada-
tion enhancement in textile industry by M/s. Smita Deogaonkar,
Megha Patel, BTRA and Kaushlesh P. Rawat, BARC
• Development of silver coated electro-conductive cotton fabric
using electron beam radiation technology by M/s. Kumar Krish-
nanand and Amol G. Thite ,BTRA
• Adhesion improvement of coated textiles by atmospheric plas-
ma treatment by M/s. Pratik Joshi and Shital Palaskar ,BTRA
In the second session, following two papers related to ‘Protective
Textiles’ were presented. Dr. A.K. Rakshit, Executive Director, ITTA,
Mumbai chaired the proceedings.
• Protective textiles to protect against electromagnetic radiation
- M/s. Pawan Sharma, Seema Patel and C.S. Vora , ATIRA
• Development of work wear for workers working in cement in-
dustry - M/s. M.S. Parmar, Shweta Saxena, Vasundhara Verma
and Satypriya Dash (M/s Arvind Ltd) [NITRA]
Prof. S.G. Vinzenekar, Ex. Principal, VJTI, Mumbai chaired the
third session on ‘Spinning’. The following three papers were pre-
sented.
• A new approach on study of twist contraction levels in modern
ring spinning process by M/s. D. Jayaraman and V. Vijayajothi ,SI-
TRA
• Influence of combing of polyester/cotton blended material on
yarn quality compared to the traditional processes by M/s. D.
Jayaraman and N. Vittopa, SITRA
• Achievable levels of UKG in modern spinning mills (Present and
Future scenario) by M/s. N. Vasanth Kumar and S. Chandira-
soodan ,SITRA
Chairman of the fourth session was Dr. Anirban Guha, Associate
Professor, IIT Bombay and the session topic was ‘Product Develop-
ment’. The following three papers were presented.
• Concept paper on development of nano-fibre based water filtra-
tion device for human beings by Mr. Chetan Mahajan, ATIRA
• Electronic drape tester based on image analysis technique by
M/s. Arindam Basu, Sanjeev Shukla, Krishan Dewan and Paurush
Godhar, NITRA
• Development of smoothness testers for finished fabrics by M/s.
M.S. Parmar, Nidhi Sisodia, Maheshwar Singh and Vasundhara
Verma, NITRA
In the fifth ‘General’ session, the following three papers, dealing
with spinning productivity, garment work practices and water
conservation in textile wet processing, were covered. Prof. S.G.
Vinzenekar, Ex. Principal, VJTI, Mumbai chaired this session.
• Productivity in spinning mills-2016 (based on SITRA’s 33rd Pro-
ductivity Survey) by M/s. J. Sreenivasan and P. Subash, SITRA
• A study of work practices in Indian garment factories by M/s.
Vivek Agarwal, M.M. Tiwari, Shweta Saxena, Kushagra Prakash
and M.K. Bansal, NITRA
• Practical approaches for water conservation in textile wet pro-
cessing by M/s. Tanaji Kadam and M.S. Kulkarni, BTRA
Prof. D.P. Chattopadhyay, Professor, M.S. University, Vadodara
chaired the sixth session on the topic of ‘Eco-friendly Products’.
There were two papers and the same are given as follows.
• Eco-friendly jute reinforced composite based toilet with bio-
digester by M/s. Kiran Dev, T. Gangopadhyay, Ashok Kumar, M.
Karthigeyan, Pravin Patel, K.K. Misra, C.S. Vora and S.S. Rathod,
AITRA
• Development of infant baby clothings using ecomordant and
natural dyes on cotton fabric with antibacterial activity by M/s.
K. H. Prabhu, S. Sivakumar and E. Prakash, SITRA
In the last session, personnel from German Textile Machinery
(VDMA) presented the following two papers.
• Mr Hjalmar Schwab, Sales Manager, DILO Systems on “Latest
technique and technology for the production of needle felted
nonwovens and their applications”
• Mr Juergen Hanel, Business Development Manager-Technical
Textiles, A. Monforts Textilmaschinen on “Latest machine inno-
vations for treatment of Geotextiles“
In the end, Dr. Anjan K. Mukhopadhyay, Director, BTRA thanked
all those who have contributed for the success of this event.
POST EVENT REPORT
32 March 2017www.textilevaluechain.com
Australian cotton delegation to explore cooperation between
Australia  India in textile and cotton
An eight member Australian cotton delegation is visiting India
between 27th February to 3rd March 2017. The delegation rep-
resenting the Australian Cotton Shippers Association (ACSA) is
meeting with textile manufacturers and spinning mills in Ludhiana,
Mumbai and Coimbatore.
The delegation is visiting to bolster opportunities for export-
ing high quality Australian cotton to India. India has consistently
purchased Australian cotton year-on-year, but last year’s mon-
soonal conditions and the resulting smaller Indian crop resulted in
increased demand for Australian cotton by Indian mills to maintain
production.
Australia produced 626.2 KT of cotton lint valued at A$1,412.7
million in 2016. In 2016, The International Cotton Advisory Commit-
tee ranked Australia as the fifth largest exporter behind USA, India,
Brazil and Uzbekistan. China, India, Vietnam, Bangladesh and Indo-
nesia are major buyers of Australian cotton with Australian cotton
exports to India this past year valued at A$ 335.6 million.
Australian cotton has been well received by Indian mills and ap-
preciated for its superior quality characteristics, consistent quality
and zero contamination.
The Australian cotton industry invests enormous resources into
breeding better varieties and agronomic practices to produce cot-
ton fibre that has excellent quality characteristics and is grown in
a sustainable manner. Added to this, researchers have developed
procedures and tools to assess spinning ability and fibre attributes
with a focus on improved spinning and dyeing ability.
Speaking about the delegation, Mr Gregory Harvey, Trade Com-
missioner, Australian Trade  Investment Commission said, “Aus-
tralia is a leading supplier of high quality fibre to global markets.
Australia has an enviable reputation as a reliable supplier of very
high quality cotton. Australian cotton exporters have been long
term and reliable suppliers to India’s textile industry. We are look-
ing to growing this relationship as India’s cotton textile manufac-
turing continues to grow”.
Australian Cotton Shippers Association Chairman Mr Matthew
Bradd stated that Australian merchants are very excited to be vis-
iting India and sharing the Australian cotton story. “Australia is a
leading supplier of high quality fibre to the world market. Added
to this we have a whole-of-industry commitment to continue to
improve on every area of production with best management prac-
tices applied to the entire supply chain from cotton growing to gin-
ning and classing right through to export.”
For more information about the delegation and partnering with
Australian cotton industry, please contact Anirban Deb, Australian
Trade and Investment Commission at +91 11 4575 6224 or at Anir-
ban.Deb@austrade.gov.au
Australian cotton delegation in India
KEY CHALLENGES FACING AUSTRALIA’S COTTON INDUSTRY
Cotton Australia represents the interests of
growers across significant challenges that
face the industry, including:
WATER As with any cropping industry, ac-
cess to water is vital for cotton production.
The industry has delivered a 40% improvement
in water use efficiency over the past decade,
utilising significant investment in watereffi-
cient irrigation infrastructure and practices.
Further efficiency improvements continue to
be a key focus for the industry. Cotton Austral-
ia works with both Federal and StateGovern-
ments to ensure the reliability and security of
water property rights are not undermined and
water access remains affordable.
ENERGY
Cotton growers and other irrigators have
been subject to sustained electricity price
rises, in some cases up to 300% since the year
2000 (with inflation at less than 50% over the
same period). The primary causes are network
tariff increases. Cotton Australia works with
governments, regulators, networks and retail-
ers to ensure affordable access to electricity.
The industry also relies very heavily on diesel
for its
production and is a very strong advocate
for maintaining the Diesel Fuel Rebate. The
industry also recognises that it must strive for
energy efficiency and has invested heavily in
energy efficiency research and extension.
TRANSPORT
Agriculture is high-tech but seasonal, re-
quiring the movement of specialised equip-
ment at time-critical points in order to avoid
losses and guarantee efficiency. Cotton Aus-
tralia advocates for a regulatory regime that
allows forthe cost effective movement of
equipment and produce.
LABOUR
Appropriately skilled workers can be in
short supply in many regional areas, creating
inefficiencies, cost to businesses and stifling
productivity. Cotton Australiafocuses on en-
suring that there is a skilled workforceavail-
able to meet all the demands of the industry.
MINING / CSG
Cotton Australia works with federal and
state legislators and regulators to take strong
steps to protect water and land resources and
the land access rights of our growers. This in-
cludes ensuring that there is an appropriate
regulatory framework, transparency within
the approvals process and support for the en-
forcement of conditions of consent through
adequate resourcing of compliance staff and
funding of prosecutions.
COST OF PRODUCTION
One of the biggest challenges facing any
farmer is managing the costs of production,
and the cotton industry is no exception. On
top of expensive energy, growers must man-
age high input costs such asbiotechnology,
diesel fuel, additional irrigation water (ifre-
quired, and available), on top of high-value ma-
chineryrequired to sow and pick the harvest.
Cotton Australia works with suppliers and
regulatorsto ensure input costs remain afford-
able and do not threaten the viability of Aus-
tralia’s cotton industry.
EVENT REPORT
33March 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com
EVENT REPORT
I love this world because it is imperfect. It is imperfect, and that’s why it
is growing; if it was perfect it would have been dead.
by Osho
“
“
34 March 2017www.textilevaluechain.com
“Think Taiwan for Textiles”, a slogan that has taken on many
meanings, whether you are looking for textile innovation, fashion,
sustainability or just reliable consistent communication, Taiwan is
the place to start and finish.
The Taiwanese textile industries have been long time leaders
in the development of environmentally friendly concepts and are
leaders in recycled polymer and polymer blends. From yarns for ap-
parel, industrial and sport accessories, recycled yarns are growing
in importance and are a core part of the Taiwan textile industry.
Eco friendly, sustainable practices have become a core back-
ground of Taiwan textile development. However, innovation is still
the critical glue that keeps it all together. New products are what
keep the engine going, making the value proposition irresistible.
Fashion as part of function and eco-friendly textiles is an im-
portant factor. Fashion is taking on new meanings as smart textiles
and wearable tech products flood our lifestyle. The proximity and
close ties of the Taiwan technical products industry helps lead the
way. Ranging from smart metallic yarns, heat sensitive color phase
finishes and heating and cooling textiles coordinated with battery
and energy conserving processes, the ideas and potential seems
limitless. Fashion in apparel and casual sport yoga inspired sports-
wear is evident as this market is expanding. New yarn develop-
ments allowing multiple looks and textures are driving innovation.
Soft, crisp, vibrant or mellow, inspired market looks and touches
are there. Mixtures of new technologies and fashion allow new de-
sign elements that were hard to imagine in the past. Polymer based
yarn developments in polyester, nylon, recycled and blended with
natural fibers lead the way. You can have the look and feel of natu-
ral fiber fabrics with the performance and flexibility of synthetics.
Comfortable, breathable, wind and water resistant textiles mixed
and matched in breathtaking design elements. Add in odor control
and a myriad of product enhancements allowing new and innova-
tive design directions bringing the consumer endless options.
The final piece of the Taiwan textile value equation is the ver-
tical integration of many of its core textile suppliers into the fin-
ished garment business. Garments for yoga, outdoor, fleece and
traditional woven apparel and knits of all types can be sourced
directly with Taiwanese companies that have facilities in multiple
international locations designed to deliver the quality and price you
need, made in the geographic area that works best for the various
companies tax and or policy initiatives that fits your needs. Taiwan
brings a designed integrated flexibility in apparel from a group of
innovative world class textile companies.
The strongest growing category in apparel today is the classi-
fication of casual sport. Garments that look good working out in a
gym and at the same time get you to the mall, work or just relaxing
at home. The broad product offerings, technical attributes and fab-
ric flexibility puts the Taiwan industry in a unique position. No other
place has everything you need so compactly organized in the realm
of a huge dynamic textile market, Taiwan has it all.
Taiwan textile manufacturers are promoting sustainability, tech-
nological innovation and new functionalities textiles at TECHNO-
TEX 2017
Thanks to a surge in global demand for sustainability, techno-
logical, innovation and new functionalities textile, Taiwan’s textile
manufacturers are surfing the wave by catering to the wellness
generation, getting the production more cost-effective and going
greener.
At TECHNOTEX 2017, TTF will bring an exhibiting delegation of
8 Taiwan excellent textile suppliers and ‘Taiwan Select’ will display
the highlights of participant exhibitors. The Taiwan Select is un-
der the Textile Export Promotion Project”, which is commissioned
by the Bureau of Foreign Trade. Moreover, the sourcing support
for buyers as well as manufacturers and the updated Taiwan Tex-
tile industry information will be available at Taiwan Select. Please
visit Taiwan Select (booth no. 42.2) and Taiwan Pavilion (booth
no.42.1~43.5) for sourcing the innovative, sustainable, reliable
products from Taiwan.
Event: TECHNOTEX 2017
Date: 12-14 April | Time: 10.00 am to 6.00 pm
Venue: Hall V, Bombay Convention  Exhibition Centre (BCEC),
Goregaon (East), Mumbai-63,India
Meet us and get to know us.
The Taiwan Textile Industry has made it easier for you to get to
know us every year. You can even find us on our informative “Think
Taiwan for Textiles “web site http://365.textiles.org.tw for all the
latest TTF news and events.
Think Taiwan for Textiles - The best sourcing hub for functional
 eco-textiles
The Department of Textile Manufacturing has announced its
technical fest Vastra’17 at the premises of Veermata Jijabai Tech-
nological Institute (VJTI), Matunga, Mumbai on April 8, 2017. VJTI
is one of the premier engineering institutes in India with a legacy
spanning 128 years.
The technofest Vastra has a history of being a confluence of
visionary alumni students and corporate leaders from the field of
textile science. This year, Vastra will be opening new avenues for
interaction among textile enthusiasts from all across the country.
The theme for the year is technical textiles.
The organizers plan to showcase global trends in the fields of
eco-textiles and nano-textiles. The focus will also be on the ways
in which Indian ecosystem is keeping pace with these trends. Vas-
tra’17 is powered by ITME.
The tech fest will witness among other events, competitions
like technical quiz, paper on poster presentation, product market-
ing and spontaneous sketching. Vastra aims at providing a platform
for students across India to engage with textile technocrats and
win prizes worth Rs 50,000.
The event is authorized by Dr.V.D. Gotmare (HOD of Textile
Manufactures Department) and Dr. D.P.Kakad (Staff Co-Ordinator)
for VASTRA’17. The event is organized by Shantan Raybage (Overall
Co-Ordinator) and Sameer Memon (General Secretory).
VEERMATA JIJABAI TECHNOLOGICAL INSTITUTE ORGANISES VASTRA 2017 EVENT
EVENT REPORT
35March 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com
ARVIND AND INVISTA “DECODE” THE FESTIVE COLLECTION
FASHION SHOW SHOWCASES THE MULTIFACETED NATURE OF
DENIM
The denim giant and the largest fiber producer, Arvind Invis-
ta, are bringing their latest in innovation, design and sustainability
for the Indian market. Arvind andInvistahave teamed up to launch
the Festive collection for 2017- DECODE. Thisfresh and ultramodern
collection is showcased in form of a spectacular display and a flam-
boyant runway show hosted at The Lalit, Mumbai choreographed
by well-known choreographer Sheetal Sharma.
The festive’17 show DECODE, highlights the multifaceted na-
ture of denim fabrics. It is said that denim remains as one of the
most interesting, complex yet evolving fabrics of all time. In this
show, Arvind and Invista unravel its mysterious personality and de-
code the denim language to discover its different aspects and its
deep underlying meaning.
The fashion show showcased an innovative line of Flip den-
ims (reversible denims), Azurite (Arvind’s patented technology
of premium saturated indigo fabrics), 360 degree MUTANTS™
(multidirectional stretch knit denims) and XL MUTANTS™ (wider
width knits for better production efficiencies) to name a few. It
showcases a collection of DENIM EXPRESS™ which is a speed to
market solution of versatile fabrics that are always in vogue – a
much needed requirement of the industry. The collection fur-
ther extends to popular Arvind categories of BLUE NATIVES™,
NEOBUBBLE™,BOOMERANG™ along with the bestsellers across
the market.
Other than the fashion show, the highlight was also the display
for Khadi denim collection. Arvind recently received much appre-
ciation globally for this phenomenal sustainable fabric. Arvind won
the prestigious Global Denim Award for best fabric in October’16 at
Amsterdam. The participants for the award included the top mills
of the world like Candiani and Prosperity.
Arvind and Invistaare now synonymous in the Industry for
bringing out innovative technologies for the consumers. All Arvind
stretch denims are powered by LYCRA® fiber and also include other
Invista specialty products like COOLMAX® Everyday fabric, COOL-
MAX® ALL SEASON Fabric and CORDURA® fabrics. These products
with their strong performance properties provide a set of unique
comfort and durability to the garments – a deeply desired feature
by the end consumers.
On this occasion, Mr.Aamir Akhtar, CEO, Denim Fabrics, Arvind
Limited, commented, We today are here to showcase “Decode”
the festive collection. Arvind Ltd every year comes up with new in-
novations in denim fabric and I promise today that we will be com-
ing up with new innovations in fabric every year. I thank Invista for
believing in us and being there with us through this journey.”
EDITORS NOTES
About Arvind Limited
Arvind Limited is one of India’s largest integrated textile and
apparel companies with a strong retail presence. Arvind is also
the pioneer of denim in India with a turnover of around US$1.3 bil-
lion in FY2015-16. Arvind has an unmatched portfolio of owned,
licensed brands and retail formats. The company’s own product
brands include Megamart (recently rebranded as Unlimited), Flying
Machine, Colt, Ruggers, Excalibur among others while its licensed
product brands have big global names like GAP, Arrow, Gant, Izod,
Elle, Cherokee, US Polo Assn, The Children’s Place and Sephora, to
name a few. It has a joint venture in India with global majors Tom-
my Hilfiger and Calvin Klein.
About INVISTA
With leading brands including LYCRA® fiber, COOLMAX®, COR-
DURA®, STAINMASTER® and ANTRON®, INVISTA is one of the
world’s largest integrated producers of chemical intermediates,
polymers and fibers. The company’s advantaged technologies for
nylon, spandex and polyester are used to produce clothing, carpet,
car parts and countless other everyday products. Headquartered in
the United States, INVISTA operates in more than 20 countries and
has about 10,000 employees. For more information, visit INVISTA.
com, Facebook.com/INVISTAglobal and Twitter.com/INVISTA.
BRAND FOCUS
36 March 2017www.textilevaluechain.com
A.T.E. joins hands with Jingmei for sales and service of circular
knitting machines in India and Bangladesh
A.T.E. has joined hands with Quanzhou Jingmei Machine Co.,
Ltd. to sell “Jingmei” brand circular knitting machines in India (ex-
cept in Ludhiana city) and Bangladesh effective from February 2017.
Jingmei is a well-known brand from China having already sold
hundreds of circular knitting machines in India, Bangladesh, and
other parts of the world which include China, Brazil, Mexico, In-
donesia, Turkey, Pakistan, South Africa and Italy. The company is
now wholly owned by the world renowned Santoni Group of Italy.
Jingmeimanufactures the entire range of circular knitting machines
in body size from 13” to 24”, as well as large diameters from 25”
onwards upto 44” from 12G upto 40G, which include single jersey,
three thread fleece, double jersey in rib and interlock, spacer fab-
ric, auto striper in 4 and 6 colours, jacquard, striper jacquard, mat-
tress ticking fabric, terry and reverse terry in tubular as well as open
width configurations. High leg frames are also available on request.
Of the production capacity of more than 1000 machines annu-
ally at Jingmei, 30% of the production is dedicated to exports, and
the percentage is growing year on year. Jingmei has a unique R 
D facility at its factory in Xiamen, to offer better products to its cus-
tomers through continuous innovation.
A single jersey tubular machine with 4 feeders/inch, 34” dia. and
28G has been installed in A.T.E.’s Surat showroom as a demo unit
for customers, as well as to produce samples to convince custom-
ers on the quality of deliverables on Jingmei machines.
Excellent service support is available both from A.T.E. and Jin-
gmei across India and Bangladesh. Certain essential spares shall
also be maintained with A.T.E. for immediate distribution to the
customers.
Jingmei, which showcased its machines at the Knit-tech exhi-
bition, Tirupur, and DTG 2017, Dhaka, in February 2017 has caught
the attention of the knitting fraternity for its technical prowess and
engineering excellence.
The A.T.E.-Jingmei combination is now all set to provide the
best-in-class products and services to the discerning customers in
India and Bangladesh.
(from left Mr Dinesh Singh – Infinite, Mr. Ronen Hagin – Vice Presi-
dent and Co-founder, Datatex, Mr G V Aras – Director, A.T.E. and Mr
James Pates – A.T.E.)
A.T.E.’s strategic partnership with Datatex builds
client base for ERP in Indian textile industry
A.T.E. joins hands with Jingmei for sales
and service of circular knitting machines
in India and Bangladesh
A.T.E. has joined hands with Quanzhou Jingmei Machine Co.,
Ltd. to sell “Jingmei” brand circular knitting machines in India (ex-
cept in Ludhiana city) and Bangladesh effective from February 2017.
Jingmei is a well-known brand from China having already sold
hundreds of circular knitting machines in India, Bangladesh, and
other parts of the world which include China, Brazil, Mexico, In-
donesia, Turkey, Pakistan, South Africa and Italy. The company is
now wholly owned by the world renowned Santoni Group of Italy.
Jingmeimanufactures the entire range of circular knitting machines
in body size from 13” to 24”, as well as large diameters from 25”
onwards upto 44” from 12G upto 40G, which include single jersey,
three thread fleece, double jersey in rib and interlock, spacer fab-
ric, auto striper in 4 and 6 colours, jacquard, striper jacquard, mat-
tress ticking fabric, terry and reverse terry in tubular as well as open
width configurations. High leg frames are also available on request.
Of the production capacity of more than 1000 machines annu-
ally at Jingmei, 30% of the production is dedicated to exports, and
the percentage is growing year on year. Jingmei has a unique R 
D facility at its factory in Xiamen, to offer better products to its cus-
tomers through continuous innovation.
A single jersey tubular machine with 4 feeders/inch, 34” dia. and
28G has been installed in A.T.E.’s Surat showroom as a demo unit
for customers, as well as to produce samples to convince custom-
ers on the quality of deliverables on Jingmei machines.
Excellent service support is available both from A.T.E. and Jin-
gmei across India and Bangladesh. Certain essential spares shall
also be maintained with A.T.E. for immediate distribution to the
customers.
Jingmei, which showcased its machines at the Knit-tech exhi-
bition, Tirupur, and DTG 2017, Dhaka, in February 2017 has caught
the attention of the knitting fraternity for its technical prowess and
engineering excellence.
The A.T.E.-Jingmei combination is now all set to provide the
best-in-class products and services to the discerning customers in
India and Bangladesh.
BRAND FOCUS
37March 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com
First European Digital Textile Conference at Texprocess
Exhibitors present the latest digital-printing technologies
Colour and function: digital textile printing is one of the focal-
point themes at this year’s Texprocess. For the first time, the World
Textile Information Network (WTiN) is holding the European Digital
Textile Conference at Texprocess. And there will be a separate lec-
ture block on digital printing in the programme of the Texprocess
Forum. Moreover, the Digital Textile Microfactory in Hall 6.0 will
present a textile production chain in action - from design, via digital
printing and cutting, to making up. As well, numerous exhibitors,
including Brother, Epson, Ergosoft and Mimaki, will be showing
digital printing technologies.
‘We are expanding our programme on the subject of digital
printing in response to the growing demand for digitalised tech-
nologies for processing garments, technical textiles and flexible
materials. This programme is of particular interest to manufactur-
ers of technical textiles and companies that process textiles’, says
Michael Jänecke, Head of Brand Management, Textiles and Textile
Technologies, Messe Frankfurt.
Elgar Straub, Managing Director, VDMA Textile Care, Fabric and
Leather Technologies: ‘Thanks to digital textile printing, it is now
possible to print apparel, shoes and technical textiles directly. Giv-
en the general trend towards individualisation, demand for individ-
ualised products is increasing in the apparel industry. This is turning
digital textile printing into one of the future oriented technologies
for companies that process garments and textiles.’
European Digital Textile Conference at Texprocess
In cooperation with Texprocess and Techtextil, the World Tex-
tile Information Network (WTiN) will hold the European Digital Tex-
tile Conference at Texprocess for the first time. The focus of the
conference will be on digital textile printing for adding functional
and decorative features to technical textiles. The WTiN European
Digital Textile Conference will take place in ‘Saal Europa’ of Hall
4.0 from 09.00 to 16.30 hrs on 10 May. Tickets for the conference
can be obtained from WTiN underhttps://www.digitaltextileconfer-
ence.com/edtc2017/
The subjects to be covered in the lectures include direct yarn
colouring in the embroidery plants (Coloreel, Sweden), plasma
pre-treatment for textiles before digital printing (GRINP, Italy) and
chemical finishing for textiles using inkjet printing technology (EFI-
REGGIANI, USA).
Texprocess Forum to spotlight digital printing technology
Digital printing technology will also be the subject of a sepa-
rate lecture block at Texprocess Forum. At this international con-
ference, experts from science and industry will focus on the latest
findings relating to subjects of major importance to the sector in
over 30 lectures and panel discussions on all four days of the fair.
Texprocess Forum is free of charge for visitors of Texprocess and
Techtextil and will be held in Hall 6.0. For the first time, three part-
ner organisations are organising the lecture blocks: DTB - Dialogue
Textile Apparel, the International Apparel Federation (IAF) and the
World Textile Information Network (WTiN).
Digital Textile Microfactory
In cooperation with the German Institutes of Textile and Fibre
Research Denkendorf (DITF) and renowned textile companies, Tex-
process presents the complete interlinked textile production chain
- the Digital Textile Microfactory - live in Hall 6.0. The digital-printing
station shows large-scale inkjet printing in the form of sublimation
printing on polyester and pigment printing on cotton and blended
fabrics. Production orders can be combined flexibly and printed
colour consistently with a variety of printing parameters. Ensuring
optimum printing results at this station are hardware and software
partners, Mimaki and Ergosoft, and Coldenhove and Monti Anto-
nio.
In addition to the Microfactory partners, other renowned com-
panies, including Brother and Epson, will be showing state-of-the-
art printing processes for textiles and apparel at Texprocess.
Digital-printing outlook
Originally developed for fashion fabrics, digital textile printing
is also used for printing technical textiles, such as sports clothing,
and textiles for the automobile industry whereby the primary focus
is on functionalising textiles. For example, swimwear can be made
more colour fast to resist frequent contact with water and chlorine,
and exposure to the sun. Also, textiles can be finished by apply-
ing chemicals via an inkjet printer and thus be given dirt-repellent,
antimicrobial and fire-retardant properties. Additionally, using an
inkjet printer in the finishing process is advantageous in terms of
sustainability and efficiency.
Texprocess is being held concurrently with Techtextil, Inter-
national Trade Fair for Technical Textiles and Nonwovens, for the
fourth time (also from 9 to 12 May 2017). Altogether, 1,662 exhibi-
tors from 45 countries and 42,000 trade visitors came to Frankfurt
am Main for the 2015 editions of Texprocess and Techtextil. Over
13,300 trade visitors attended specifically for Texprocess. They
were supplemented by another 7,600 from the concurrent Tech-
textil.
Digital textile printing a focal-point theme at Texprocess
EVENT REPORT
“Friendship is the purest love. It is the highest form of Love where nothing is
asked for, no condition, where one simply enjoys giving.”
― Osho
38 March 2017www.textilevaluechain.com
April 2017
2-5 Textyle Expo 2017
Place : Oran/ Algeria,
info: www.textyle-expo.com
4-7 INDEX 17
Place : Geneva/ Europe,
nfo: www.edana.org
6-8 Fibers  Yarns 2017
Place : Mumbai/ India,
info: www.fibersnyarns.com
8th VASTRA
Place : Mumbai/ India,
info: vastrasummit@gmail.com
7-9 Garfab –TX
Place : Surat/ India,
info: www.verdaanevents.in
8-10 International Apparel  Textile Fair
Place: Dubai/ UAE,
info: www.internationalapparelandtextilefair.com
12-14 Technotex 2017
Place : Mumbai/ India,
info: www.technotexindia.in
14-16 Textile Expo 2017
Place : Surat / India,
info: www.textileexposurat.com
19-21 TPF Digital Printing
Place: Shanghai/ China,
info: www.cstpf.com
22nd Opportunity in current challenge in Weaving Sector
Place: Vapi/ Gujarat,
info: www.textileassociationindia.com
May 2017
9-12 TECHTEXIL /TEXPROCESS
Place : Frankfurt/ Germany ,
info: http://techtextil.messefrankfurt.com
16-18 BCI Global Cotton Conference
Place : Berlin/ Germany,
info: vinay.kumar@bettercotton.org
22nd Planet Textile
Place: Bangalore / India,
info: www.planet-textiles.com
22-23 3rd Defense –ITTA Exhibition  Conference
Place : Delhi / India, info: www.ittaindia.org
June 2017
7-8 EurAsian Geotextile Symposium
Place : Beijing / China,
info: www.edana.org/education-events/conferences-
and-symposia
8-10 Non Woven Tech 2017
Place : Mumbai/ India,
info: www.nonwoventechasia.com
8-10 Fashion Connect / HOMTEX PLUS
Place: Banglore/ India,
info: www.fashionconnect.co.in , www.homtex.in
SHOW CALENDAR
13-15 China Yiwutex International Textile Machinery 2017
Place : PR China,
info: www.yiwutex.com
20-22 HEIMTEXTIL – INDIA
Place: Delhi/ India,
info: http://heimtextil-india.in.messefrankfurt.com
30- 2nd July
The Textile India Conclave and Exhibition
Place : Gandhinagar / Gujarat,
info: CII /Textile Ministry
July 2017
4-6 HGH INDIA
Place : Mumbai/ India,
info: www.hghindia.com
5-8 GFT 2017
Place : Bitex/Bangkok,
info: www.gftexpo.com
20-22 YARNEX 2017
Place: Delhi/ India,
info: www.yarnex.in
20-22 FA SHOW
Place : Delhi/ India,
info: www.fnashow.in
29-31 GARTEX 2017
Place : Delhi/ India
info: http://gartexindia.com
August 2017
18-20 GTE – AHMEDABAD
Place: New Delhi/ India,
info: www.garmenttechnologyexpo.com
September 2017
13-15 TechTexil India 2017
Place : Mumbai/ India,
info: http://techtextil-india.in.messefrankfurt.com
21-23 YARNEX / TEXINDIA
Place : Tirupur/ India,
info: www.yarnex.in , www.texindiafair.com
October 2017
29-31 Screen Print East Africa
Place: Nairobi/ Kenya,
info: www.screenprinteastafrica.com
November 2017
15-17 INTEX South Asia
Place: Colombo/ Srilanka,
info: www.intexfair.com
17-20 Texfair 2017
Place: Coimbatore / India, info: texfair@simamills.org
22-25 YFA SHOW 2017
Place : Delhi/ India, info: www.yfatradeshow.com
December 2017
7-10 ITMACH INDIA/ ITS Exhibition
Place : Gandhinagar / Gujarat ,
info: www.ITMACH.com / www.ITSexhibition.com
39March 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com
39March 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com
40 March 2017www.textilevaluechain.com
41March 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com
Experience the textile industry of the future.
Which innovations are changing this sector?
Techtextil combines today’s fascinating tex-
tile opportunities with a vision of tomorrow.
Come and discover exciting prospects for
sales and revenue in the world of sports and
leisure.
info@india.messefrankfurt.com
Tel. +91 22 61 44 59 00
Leading International Trade Fair for
Technical Textiles and Nonwovens
in parallel with:
CONNECTING
THE FUTURE
techtextil.com
9–12.5.2017, Frankfurt am Main
German products enjoy a very high reputation at the international
clothing industry. The worldwide leading specialist for high qual-
ity ironing covers VOMATEX Germany is going to present the wide
range of heat and pressure resistant foams, felts and textiles at the
Texprocess fair which will be held in Frankfurt a.M, Germany, from
9.-12. May.
Since 1968 the VOMATEX high German quality products are mainly
used on industrial ironing tables and presses as well as fusing ma-
chines in clothing factories. Besides these articles are suitable for
many other applications like textile bonding, fusing, thermo trans-
fer printing and bending in industries like shoe, glass, aluminium,
furniture, advertising and many others.
Today the ironing covers market faces worldwide competition, es-
pecially by new suppliers from China, but all attempts to reach the
superior price/cost ratio of high German quality covers from VOMA-
TEX failed so far.
Every international clothing factory and machine manufacturer is
looking for a cost saving purchase of ironing covers, but cheap imi-
tations are no solution. They do not last as long as VOMATEX high
quality products and they quickly lose shape, elasticity and perme-
ability, which is corrupting the look and the value of the clothing.
Moreover inferior imitations cause more machine breakdown time
which disturbs the continuous production process and costs more
money than saved at the cheap purchase.
Technicians, engineers and purchase managers who realized this
correlation replaced the inferior covers with high quality articles
from VOMATEX and did not only save cost but also improved the
ironing result and the rating of their products.
If you are looking for heat and pressure resistant coverings it
is worth to visit VOMATEX on Texprocess in hall 6.0, booth B 60.
(www.vomatex.de)
German high quality products for
ironing
42 March 2017www.textilevaluechain.com
43March 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com
GS A
Venue:
The Exhibition Centre, Helipad Ground, Sector-17, Gandhinagar, Gujarat, India
December 20177 8 9 10
SPACE BOOKING:
Arvind Semlani Cell: +91 9833977743 | Email: info@ITMACH.com
Cell: +91 9867127598 | Email: info@itsexhibition.comRadhika Boddu
Cell: +91 9426012207 | Email: bhadresh@kdclglobal.comBhadresh Mistry
Bhavesh Thakar Cell: +91 9375322449 | Email: allgujaratspinnersassociation@gmail.com
44 March 2017www.textilevaluechain.com
45March 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com
Innovation• Sustainability • Relability
Taiwan Select at 42.2
Taiwan Pavilion at 42.1~43.5
TECHNOTEX 2017
Date: 12-14 April | Time: 10.00 am to 6.00 pm
Venue: Hall V, Bombay Convention  Exhibition Centre (BCEC),
Goregaon (East), Mumbai-63
TECHNOTEX 2017
Date: 12-14 April | Time: 10.00 am to 6.00 pm
Venue: Hall V, Bombay Convention  Exhibition Centre (BCEC),
Goregaon (East), Mumbai-63
46 March 2017www.textilevaluechain.com
SIRIUS TWISTING TECHNOLOGY
Sirius represents the Savio proposal in the field of traditional Two-for-
one twisting, ensuring high structural standardization, a wide range of
feeding and spindle dimensions for every yarn type and count.
The electronic solutions simplify the operator intervention, allowing to
obtain every possible combination of parameters in order to reach the
best output working condition.
SIMPLE, RELIABLE STATE OF THE ART TWISTING
Cosmos represents a further Savio proposal in the field of traditional
Two-for-one twisting, ensuring maximum cost-effectiveness of the
technological process through manufacturing solutions that allow a
reduction in investment with a minimum of energy consumption.
In this way, the machine productivity, the quality of the end product,
the technological flexibility are maximized together with low investment
cost.
SAVIO MACCHINE TESSILI S.P.A.
33170 PORDENONE (Italy)
Via Udine, 105
www.saviospa.com
SAVIO INDIA LTD
Nallattipalayam, Tamaraikulam
Post Pollachi, Coimbatore
642109 Tamil Nadu, India
Phone : +91 4259 304555
Fax : +91 4259 304567
www.savioindia.com
Excellence through time
Excellence through time
47March 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com
Our customers benefit
from our sustainable
e-save solutions for the
production of manmade
fibers within growth
markets like textile and
apparel, infrastructure,
transportation, food,
energy and electronics. “
Georg Stausberg,
CEO Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Segment
From Melt to Yarn,
Fibers and Nonwovens
It all starts with a few chemicals. Transforming these into smart clothing, technical textiles
or tire cord requires great ideas, outstanding equipment and sophisticated processes.
Oerlikon Manmade Fibers engineers support you in ensuring that your entire project
is a total success. We will accompany you on your journey from chemical product to
manmade fibers. From engineering and polycondensation to spinning, texturing and
nonwoven production.
From Melt to Yarn, Fibers and Nonwovens.
For further information visit us at
www.oerlikon.com/manmade-fibers
Follow us on Facebook!
www.facebook.com/OerlikonBarmag
www.facebook.com/OerlikonNeumag
48 March 2017www.textilevaluechain.com

March 2017 Issue

  • 1.
    www.textilevaluechain.com TE TILEX VALUE CHAIN Registeredwith Registrar of Newspapers under | RNI NO: MAHENG/2012/43707 Postal Registration No. MNE/346/2015-17 published on 5th of every month,TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN posted at Mumbai Patrika Channel Sorting Office,Pantnagar- 75, posting date 29/30 of month MARCH 2017 Volume 5 Issue 3 Pages 48 © China’s commercial and Geopolitical initiative silk road trade route © Market Reports : Yarn/ Surat/ Malegaon © Australian Cotton Delegation / Industry Report © Brand Focus : Arvind Ltd. & ATE
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    3March 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com www.rieter.com SagarManufacturers Pvt. Ltd. E-2/4, Arera Colony Opp. Habibganj Railway Station Bhopal - 462016 (M.P.) Phone 0755-2460107/08 Fax - 0755-4077097/98 www.thesagar.in We feel that compact yarn Com4®compact is the future of comprehensive fabric quality and Rieter compact spinning machine is having very high reliability for making consistent quality for years together with least cost incurring for manufacturing. V. K. Jain Executive Director Com4® yarns from Rieter spinning machines fulfill the most exacting requirements. Excellent properties ensure competitiveness in a dynamic market. The benefits are also visible in downstream processing and in the final product.
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    6 March 2017www.textilevaluechain.com EDITORIAL Allrights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of any of the content from this issue is prohibited without explicit written permission of the publisher. Every effort has been made to ensure and present factual and accurate information. The views expressed in the articles published in this magazine are that of the respective authors and not necessarily that of the publisher. Textile Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely errors that might occur or any steps taken based in the information provided herewith. Registered Office Innovative Media and Information Co. 189/5263, Sanmati, Pantnagar, Ghatkopar (East), Mumbai 400075. Maharashtra, INDIA. Tel : +91-22-21026386 Cell: +91-9769442239 Email: info@textilevaluechain.com tvcmedia2012@gmail.com Web: www.textilevaluechain.com Owner, Publisher, Printer & Editor Ms. Jigna Shah Printed & Processed by her at, Impression Graphics, Gala no.13, Shivai Industrial Estate, Andheri Kurla Road, Sakinaka, Andheri (East), Mumbai 400072, Maharashtra, India. We are in the era of the world where without smart technology & social media our life would be miserable. Smart technology upgrading our life in more comfort zone by technologically upgraded products we use in our routine life like mobile phones, household equipments, entertainment products/services, cosmetics /personal care products, automobiles, computers, travel products etc. Social media forced us to live in virtual world over real world; human mindset / values are changing from group living to nuclear living, selfless to selfish behaviour, secure to insecure life, united to broken families etc. Human are feeling lonely in the crowd so they are constantly living in virtual world & vice versa. This reality is heading towards a breakdown of traditional social set up we have created. Business world will take real advantage of this situation to earn in materialistic world, which is acceptable, if they produce sustainable and technological advance products which human can connect & feel comfortable. As the natural climatic condition is changing every year, we are heading towards unbalanced, extreme environ- ments at any point of time. This will also have a major change in the world of textile industry. In a business world, every industry upgrading & innovating the products and services they supply to the world. Why not textile and fashion? Our industry also moving slowly from awareness of new fibres to technological ad- vanced fashion garments. New age sustainable fabrics to technically advanced fabrics. Today entire world wanted and waiting to innovate in wearable technology, wherein garments are more functional & multipurpose than just to cover the body. Sports textiles manufacturing brands already at innovation stage & moving on as compare to other segments. Now, at next stage of innovation, World needs integration of smart mobile to smart textiles. Application which runs on garments. Are we Indians ready for next generation smart technological textiles and garments? Do our re- search association really doing research on these directions? As of now, Asian countries being manufacturing hub for conventional textiles, but do these countries really geared up with advance technological fabrics for which demand in near future will be generated by the world population? Let our presence in the world felt by contributing in a way we can, size does not matter. Doing best with posi- tive intentions which makes a life and world a better place to live..! Wishing you all a Very Happy New Financial Year..!!! Are we ready with smart textiles? Ms. Jigna Shah Editor & Publisher
  • 7.
    7March 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com LARGESTINTERNATIONAL TEXTILE SOURCING SHOW IN SOUTH ASIA ORGANIZERS K AND D ITMACH EXPOSITIONS LLP Spinners Association (Gujarat) GS A DISCOVER Market Opportunities With New Partners In The Global Marketplace PROSPERCOLLABORATE n n n n n nFiber Yarn Suiting & Shirting Fabrics Ladies Wear & Dress Materials Knits Denim n n n nHome Textiles & Sheeting Fashion Fabrics Khadi & Handlooms Sustainable & Eco Textiles PRODUCT CATEGORIES Nonwoven Technical Textile & ExcellenceMEDIA PARTNERS Venue : Helipad Exhibition Centre, Gandhinagar, Ahmedabad, India SPACE BOOKING: Arvind Semlani : +91 9833977743 Email: info@ITMACH.com : +91 9867127598Radhika Boddu Email: info@itsexhibition.com : +91 9375322449Bhavesh Thakar Email: allgujaratspinnersassociation@gmail.com December 20177 8 9 10
  • 8.
    8 March 2017www.textilevaluechain.com Contact: SureshSaraf+91 9322 50 4449 / +91 9322 10 4449 | Nayan Saraf - +91 7498 88 1400 Office Landline - 91-22-6002 0119 / Email : sureshsaraf2000@yahoo.co.in | info@shreebalajisynfabs.com sureshsaraf@shreebalajisynfabs.com | Website : www.shreebalajisynfabs.com Address: Room No.-17, Ground Floor, 342 Kalbadevi Road, Mumbai- 400002 SKBS SHREE BALAJI SYNFABSSHREE BALAJI SYNFABSSHRSHREE BALAJI SYNFABS Advt. 9699 25 8834
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    10 March 2017www.textilevaluechain.com EDITORIALTEAM Editor & Publisher Ms. Jigna Shah Consulting Editor Mr. Avinash Mayekar Graphic Designer Mr. Anant A. Jogale Sales Manager Mr. Md. Tanweer Editorial Assistant Ms. Krupa Shah INDUSTRY Mr. Devchand Chheda City Editor - Vyapar ( Janmabhumi Group) Mr. Manohar Samuel President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries Dr. M. K. Talukdar VP, Kusumgar Corporates Mr. Shailendra Pandey VP (Head – Sales and Marketing), Indian Rayon Mr. Ajay Sharma GM RSWM (LNJ Bhilwara Group) EDUCATION / RESEARCH Mr. B.V. Doctor HOD knitting, SASMIRA Dr. Ela Dedhia Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College Dr. Mangesh D. Teli Professor, Dean ICT Dr. S.K. Chattopadhyay Principal Scientist & Head MPD Dr. Rajan Nachane Retired Scientist, CIRCOT Delhi Representative office : Mr. Sudhir Verma Knit Experts 242, Pocket 3, Sector 23, Near Max Fort School, Rohini, New Delhi- 110085 Email : knitexperts@rediffmail.com Tel : +91-9818026572 Back Page: Raymond Back Inside: Oerlikon Front Inside : Raysil Page 3: Rieter Page 4: Non Woven Tech Page 5: SGS Innovations Page 7: Indian Textile Sourcing Exhi- bition Page 8: SKBS Page 9: Technotex Page 39: RSWM Page 40: Texfair Page 41: Techtextil Frankfurt Page 42: Deep Textile Page 43: ITMACH India Page 44: Sanjay Plastics Page 45: Taiwan Textiles Page 46: Savio India March 2017 ISSUE Advertiser Index CONTENT GLOBAL FOCUS 11- China’s commercial and Geopolitical initiative silk road trade route by Mr. Arvind Sinha NEWS 12- GOTS New Version 5.0 released 20- Kate Middleton & A-list designer favourite Daniella Helayel col laborates with Koovs for the Princess collection 26- CMAI organised Seminar on Labour law & Important Acts 26- NITRA embraces Green power, goes the solar way 41- German high quality products for ironing COVER STORY: Creating Sustainable chain by Innovative Fibres 13- Innovative fibres / Yarns for Technical Textile Sector by Mr. Avinash Mayekar 15- Sustainable trends for man-made fibres – Rieter 16- FT6E & FT7E : leading edge roving frame technology – Marzoli 18- World of Textile : TVC Team 18- Do you have water balance sheet of your factory ? by Ms. Chitralekha Vaidya 21- Jammu Apparel Market by Mr. Hari Govind Mishra HR FOCUS 22- NSQF level compliance of skill development courses by Dr. Swapna Mishra 23- India, the third largest Asian economy, ranked 131 on human devel- opment Index : UN TECHNICAL TEXTILE 23- Protective work wears for workers working in cement industry by NITRA MARKET REPORT 24- Surat Report 25- Malegaon Report by Mr. Aleem Faizee 27- Yarn Report by YNFX EVENT REPORT 29- ISCI fellowship award and felicitation of Dr. K.R. Kranti, CIRCOT 30- Joint Technological conference by BTRA / NITRA/ ATIRA/SITRA 32- Australian Cotton Delegation in India / Key Challenges facing Aus- tralia’s Cotton Industry 33- Australia’s Cotton Industry in the Global Market 34- Taiwan Textile in Technotex 2017 37- Texprocess / Techtexil BRAND FOCUS 35- Arvind Limited & Invista 36- ATE partnerships 38- SHOW CALENDAR
  • 11.
    11March 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com China’sCommercial & Geopolitical initiative Silk Road Trade Route China is reviving the historic Silk Road trade route that runs be- tween its own borders and Europe. Announced in 2013 by President XiJinping, the idea is that two new trade corridors – one overland, the other by sea – will connect the country with its neighbors in the west: Central Asia, the Middle East and Europe. The project has proved ex- pensive and controversial. So why is China doing it? There are strong commer- cial and geopolitical forces at play here, first among which is China’s vast industrial overca- pacity – mainly in steel manu- facturing and heavy equip- ment – for which the new trade route would serve as an outlet. As China’s domestic market slows down, opening new trade markets could go a long way towards keeping the national economy buoyant. Hoping to lift the value of cross-border trade to $2.5 trillion within a decade, President Xi Jinping has channelled nearly $1 tril- lion of government money into the project. He’s also encouraging state-owned enterprises and financial institutions to invest in infra- structure and construction abroad. It is not an economic project, it is a geopolitical project - and it is very strategic.It’s clear that relationships with the ASEAN region, Central Asia and European countries stand to improve significantly if China directs more of its capital into developing infrastructure overseas. Moreover, by striking up economic and cultural partnerships with other countries, China cements its status as a dominant player in world affairs. “We will support the One Belt, One Road project, said President of the Asian Infrastructure Investment Bank, Jin Liquin”. But be- fore we spend shareholders’ money, which is really the taxpayers’ money, we have three requirements.” The new trade route should be promote growth, be socially acceptable and be environmentally friendly. What is China’s Silk Road? It’s a govern- ment policy officially known as One Belt, One Road. It is trying to cre- ate a modern ver- sion of the ancient network of trade routes, which con- nected China, Europe and Africa. In the words of Chinese President Xi Jinping: “The economic belt along the Silk Road is home to almost 3 bil- lion people, and represents the biggest market in the world with unparalleled potential”. My Experience is that One Belt, One Road is not just a good medium for China’s openness to countries abroad it’s also a way to share Chinese experience with the countries involved. The New Silk Road policy covers both land and maritime routes, but it’s much more than a transport project. The Chinese govern- ment says it’s designed to boost global free trade and help coun- tries coordinate their economic policies. As many as 60 nations could be included in the initiative Start with a port, and behind that you have an industrial zone and behind that you have a city so, what we offer you is a full package who wins from that? Local people one report said there were already 900 projects planned at an estimated cost of $890 billion, it’s not yet clear where all of this money will come from, But China has already set up a $50 billion Silk Road Fund to support its mission. China to run 1,000 cargo trains to Europe in 2017 BEIJING: China will run nearly 1,000 cargo trains to Europe in 2017, more than double the number from last year, as the Commu- nist trading giant ramps up efforts to boost its dwindling exports. The cargo trains from southwest China’s Chengdu city would be doubled, the Chengdu International Railway Services Company said today. Chengdu, capital of southwest China’s Sichuan Province, ran 460 cargo trains to cities in Poland, the Netherlands and Germany last year -- more thanany other Chinese city. Chengdu delivered a total of 73,000 tonnes of goods worth 1.56 billion dollar in 2016 globally, state-run Xinhua news agency reported. The southwestern hub has planned three major rail line services to Europe, with a middle route to Germany, Poland and the Nether- lands, a southern route to Turkey and beyond, and another north- ern route to Russia. This year, new routes linking Chengdu to Istanbul and Moscow will be officially launched, company chairman Fan Jun was quoted Mr. Arvind Sinha CEO - Business Advisors Group Cell No. 9820062612 Email ID: lionasinha@gmail.com GLOBAL FOCUS
  • 12.
    12 March 2017www.textilevaluechain.com assaying by the report. The cargo trains from southwest China’s Chengdu city would be doubled, the Chengdu International Railway Services Company Trains to Istanbul and Moscow would take about 16 days and 10 days, with each route planning to operate 200 and 150 trains in 2017, respectively. China last month has launched its first freight train to London. London is the 15th city in Europe added to China-Europe freight train services. Demand for rail cargo service between China and Europe, an alternative to slower and riskier sea freight and much costlier air cargo, has exploded in recent years. • By June 2016, trains had made nearly 2,000 trips between 25 Chi- nese cities and Europe, with a total import and export value of $17 billion, it said. • China’s exports totalled to $2.27 trillion in 2015 slowing down from $2.34 trillion in 2014. • China’s economy grew at 6.9 per cent in 2015 slipping below seven per cent in a quarter of century. • As part of its efforts to stabilise its exports and economy, China has embarked on multibillion dollar global connectivity project called the One Belt One Road, (Silk Road). The New Silk Road: China Launches Beijing-London Freight Train Route A general view of the first China Railway Express, a new railway line from China to Europe during the inauguration by visiting Chi- nese President Xi Jinping in Warsaw, Poland, on the sideline of the International Forum on the New Silk Road, Monday, 20 June 2016. The visit was intended to boost China’s infrastructure investments in Europe, and opening China’s market to Poland’s foods. On Sunday, the Chinese government launched a rail freight ser- vice between China and London. This is the first direct rail link be- tween China and Great Britain. The route of the service will traverse from Beijing, across Asia and Europe, before terminating in London. The route is actually not new at all. It is part of the old Silk Road, which commenced in 200 BC, through which Chinese silk caravans carried wears to Europe and Africa. The trail provided much wealth and prestige for the Chinese Empire of the day. Now, Beijing is aiming to resurrect this historic trade route by using rail power. The journey is as much an engineering challenge as a logistical problem. Freight must swap trains along the way, as railway gaug- es vary between the connecting countries. In its 18-day journey, freight will span 7,456 miles of railways, crossing Kazakhstan, Rus- sia, Belarus, Poland, Germany, Belgium, France and the UK. The new route unlocks a new option for shippers. Currently, the choice is two-fold. One, take an ocean-bound route, which, al- though cheap, can be slow. Two, use an air carrier that is consider- ably faster, but much more expensive. A direct rail link between Beijing and Western Europe enables manufacturers to explore new means to lower transport costs. The line may not provide a suitable alternative to all producers, but canny negotiators can leverage the new market entrant to lower prices of their established pathways by boat or plane. GLOBAL FOCUS Version 5.0 of the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) has been released. GOTS is the worldwide recognized standard for the processing of textiles made with 95 percent (label grade “organ- ic”) or at least 70 percent (label grade “made with organic”) certi- fied organic fibres. GOTS’ core provisions such as the minimum con- tent of certified organic fibers and the general bans on the use of toxic and harmful chemicals, conventional cotton, virgin polyester, GMOs, substances derived from GMOs and nanotechnology have been maintained. The criteria for the “additional fibre material” are now stricter regarding the environmentally improved and certified regenerated cellulosic fibres: The use of Viscose and Modal is now restricted to 10% (25% for sportswear and socks). Lyocell may still be used up to 30% because of its more sustainable manufacturing processes. For the first time GOTS will allow “Combined Products” such as prams with textile fabrics, bassinets, car seats or furniture with textile fabric upholstery to have certified and labelled fabric com- ponents. Regarding the GOTS social criteria an explicit section on Ethical Business Behaviour including a corruption ban was added, based on the UN Global Compact Principles. The mandatory GOTS Social Compliance Management System for the first time includes guidance on the use of tools such as SAI Social Fingerprint™ to help companies measure and improve their social performance. “Revi- sion of GOTS always walks a fine line between strict and verifiable criteria and the needs of the market. For example, version 5.0 in- cludes the tightening of composition requirements with respect to regenerated cellulosic fibres. On the other hand, the new pos- sibility of combined products with fabric components certified to GOTS helps include a range of products that could not carry the GOTS label in the past. This helps to increase our contribution to sustainable development.” says Rahul Bhajekar, GOTS Director Standards Development and Quality Assurance. GOTS 5.0 is the result of a year-long revision process with multi stakeholder input which is repeated every three years. All relevant Stakeholders who operate internationally with expertise in the fields of organic pro- duction, textile colourants & chemicals, social criteria & industry, NGOs and consumer interests were invited to participate. Invited organizations included Greenpeace, Clean Clothes Campaign, Fair Labour Association, FairWear Foundation, IFOAM, ILO, Transpar- ency International, Social Accountability International (SAI) and Textile Exchange. The list of all stakeholders and more about the revision process can be found on GOTS website (http://www.glob- al-standard.org/the-standard/revision-procedure.html). GOTS Version 5.0, the Manual for Implementation Version 5.0, a list of relevant changes and further information regarding GOTS can be found on http://www.global-standard.org. Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) - New version 5.0 released: Stricter criteria for regenerated fibres & category “Combined Products” added NEWS
  • 13.
    13March 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com Introduction: “ContinuousInnovation” is a key element in getting success in Technical textile industry. One needs to be innovative in produc- tion, process & even in marketing strategies. With the continuous advancement in various fields like health- care and hygiene, sports, protective textiles, and growing require- ments from many industries, the existing fibers is being modified and new fibers are being developed to meet specific and stringent requirements of the technical applications. The fiber and polymer technologists have been continuously innovating new fibres to meet growing demands of high performance and functional tex- tiles. The functional property requirement varies from sector to sector e.g. it is a fibre with high tenacity, high modulus and less weight for the application of filtration and sports textiles. In the case of medical and hygiene products, it should be free from toxic and biodegradable. For protective textiles, fibers should be high resistance to corrosive chemicals and high resistance to elevated temperatures, flames and very high hydrophilic. In fact, in case of apparels, the global trend is shifting from occasion specific clothing to function based clothing where fabric properties play major role. Some of the trends like temperature sensitive& IT embedded technical garments will be gaining more importance in coming future. Increasing awareness on climatic changes like global warming, eco-friendly concept & enormous industrial growth will be leading to more focus on function based clothing than need specific clothing. These clothing consist of fi- bres with inherent functional properties. Technological advance- ment plays important role in development of high performance and specialty fibres which differ ac- cording to their specific properties & end-uses. Major High Performance Fibres: Glass Fibre: Glass fiber is the oldest and most familiar, high-per- formance fibre. Fibres have been manufactured from glass since the 1930s. Although early versions had high-strength, they were relatively inflexible and not suitable for sever- al textile applications. Today’s glass fibres offer a much wider range of properties and can be found in many end uses, such as insulation, fire-re- sistant, and reinforcing materials for composites. Carbon Fiber: Carbon fiber, al- ternatively graphite fiber, carbon graphite or CF, is a material consist- ing of fibers about 5–10 μm in diameter and composed mostly of carbon atoms. Carbon fibre may also be engineered for strength. Carbon fibre variants differ in flexibility, electrical conductivity, thermal and chemical resistance. Car- bon fibre found its applications in au- tomobile, aircraft, sport equipment and carbon electrode etc. Aramid Fiber: Aramid fiber is the best known of the high-performance, synthetic, organic fibres. Closely related to polyamides, aramids are derived from aromatic acids and amines. The high impact resistance of the para-aramids makes them popular for ‘bullet-proof’ body armour. For many less demanding applications, aramids may be blended with other fibres. PBI (Polybenzimidazole): PBI (polybenzimidazole) is another fibre that takes advantage of the high stability of conjugated aro- matic structures to produce high thermal resistance. The ladder- like structure of the polymer further increases the thermal stability. PBI is noted for its high cost, due to high raw material costs and a demanding manufacturing process. The high degree of conjugation in the polymer structure imparts an orange colour that cannot be removed by bleaching. When converted into fabric, it yields a soft hand with good moisture regain. PBI may be blended with aramid or other fibres to reduce cost and increase fabric strength. PBO (polyphenylenebenzo- bisoxazole) and PI (polyimide) are two other high- temperature re- sistant fibres based on repeating aromatic structures. Both are re- cent additions to the market. PBO exhibits very good tensile strength and high modulus, which are useful in reinforcing applications. Polyimide’s temperature resist- ance and irregular cross-section make it a good candidate for hot gas filtration applications. PPS (polyphenylene sulfide) exhibits moderate thermal stabil- ity but excellent chemical and fire resistance. It is used in a variety of filtration and other industrial applications. Melamine Fiber: Melamine fiber is primarily known for its in- herent thermal resistance and outstanding heat-blocking capability in direct flame applications. This high stability is due to the cross- linked nature of the polymer and the low thermal conductivity of melamine resin. In comparison with other high-performance fibers, melamine fibres offer excellent value for products designed for direct flame contact and elevated temperature exposures. More- over, the dielectric properties, cross-section shape and distribu- tion make it ideal for high- temperature filtration applications. It is Innovative fibres/Yarns for Technical Textile Sector! Hot Gas Filtration Bullet Proof Jacket Carbon Fiber Glass Fiber Mr.Avinash Mayekar MD & CEO Suvin Advisors Pvt Ltd +919322906199 www.suvinindia.com COVER STORY
  • 14.
    14 March 2017www.textilevaluechain.com sometimesblended with aramid or other high-performance fibres to increase final fabric strength. Fluoropolymer (PTFE, polytetrafluoroethylene) offers ex- tremely high chemical resistance, coupled with good thermal sta- bility. It also has an extremely low coefficient of friction, which can be either an advantage or disadvantage, depending on the use. HDPE (high-density polyethylene) can be extruded using spe- cial technology to produce very high molecular orientation. The re- sulting fibre combines high strength, high chemical resistance and good wear properties with light weight, making it highly desirable for applications ranging from cut-proof protective gear to marine ropes. Since it is lighter than water, ropes made of HDPE float. Its primary drawback is its low softening and melting temperature. Ceramic Fiber: High-temperature insulation wool (HTIW), known as ceramic fiber wool until the 1990s, is one of several types of synthetic mineral wool, generally defined as those resistant to temperatures above 1000°C. The first variety, aluminium silicate fi- bre, developed in the 1950s, was referred to as refractory ceramic fibre. Applications envisaged are in gas turbines, both aeronautical and ground-based, heat exchangers, first containment walls for fu- sion reactors, as well as uses for which no matrix is necessary such as candle filters for high temperature gas filtration. Alumina and silicon carbide bulk ceramics are widely used for their high stiffness and good high temperature mechanical properties in air; however, they are generally weak due to the presence of critically sized de- fects. Chemically Resistant Fibers: Chemically resistant organic poly- meric fibres include those which are designed to resist chemical attack for acceptable periods during their service lives at both am- bient and elevated temperatures. As a consequence of their inert structures they may also be flame resistant and so address markets where that property is also desirable. Fluorinated fibres: PTFE, PVF, PVDF and FEP (ARH) and Chlorin- ated fibres: PVDC (ARH) are Chemically resistant fibers. Thermally Resistant Fibers: Thermally resistant organic poly- meric fibres include those that resist thermal degradation and some degree of chemical attack, notably oxidation, for acceptable periods during their service lives. Thermosets (HE and HS), Mela- mine–formaldehyde fibres, Basofil (BASF) (HE) are Thermally re- sistant fibres. Specialty Fibres: Different categories of specializedfibres available in market like Modal, Tencel, Coolmax, Cuproammonium Rayon, Kermel®, Ther- moCool, Recron®, Bamboo, Linen, Acrylic& many more. . Tencel: Fully degradable Tencelfibre manufactured from wood pulp is soft as silk, strong as polyester, cool as linen, warm as wool and as absorbent as cotton. Not only is Tencel environmentally friendly, but also is has been designed to be a lovely and wearable fiber. Modal is a semi synthetic cellulose & it is used alone or blend- ed with other fibres. It offers soft hand-feel, good drapebility and comfort while wearing. It has good moisture regain and air perme- ability which is often considered better than cotton fabric; hence it is used in in household items such as pajamas, towels, bathrobes, under garments and bed sheets. It is a good material for exercise clothing and health suit, which can serve to benefit physiology cir- culation and health of the body. Coolmax: A trademark of Invista, is specially-engineered poly- ester fibre to improve “breathability” compared to natural fibres like cotton. The series of closely spaced channels creates capillary action that wicks moisture through the core and out to a wider area on the surface of the fabric which increases evaporation & now often woven with other materials like cotton, wool, Spandex and Tencel. Properties of CoolMax fabric allows wearer to keep sweat free hence it is widely used in garments of mountain climbing gear, casual sportswear, underwear & mattress covers. Other useful properties include resistance to fading, shrinking and wrinkling. Cuprammonium rayon is also a specialized fibre used in light- weight summer dresses and blouses, sometimes in combination with cotton to make textured fabrics with slubbed, uneven sur- faces. Several other fibres /yarns are widely used various industrial & other functional applications like dope dyed polyester yarns used in high visibility garments; Kermel® having properties of non- inflam- mability, resistance to high temperature, resistance to abrasion, resistance to chemicals majorly used in protective clothing ThermoCool fibre/yarns specifically designed to optimize the body’s natural thermo regulating capabilities through unique smart fiber cross sections that provide evaporative cooling or thermo- buffering according to the body’s needs. The garments produced from spun ThermoCool keep a body warm when it is cold and cool when it is hot leading to total body comfort and garment moisture management majorly used in active sports-wear. Stretch yarn which is manufactured from Elastane fibre is com- monly termed as Lycra or Spandex. Its applications in industry are mostly for body confirming garments such as sportswear, founda- tion garments, jeans & intimate apparels which ensures a stable shape during wearing. Other outstanding features beside shape retention are higher elasticity, smooth & supple hand-feel, lower moisture regain, resistance to pilling & resistance to abrasion. Glob- al demand of stretch yarn will soar up in coming years because of increasing population. There are other products like Organic Cotton, Compact, CSY, Melange, Slub, Multi count, Gassed, Mercerized, Fancy yarns, and Polyester/Nylon Filament yarn like DTY, FDY and POY in knitting and weaving also capturing huge markets. Conclusion: India has already positioned strongly in international market in terms of convectional yarns, now time has come to understand the importance of high performance and specialty fibres and yarns. Umpteen numbers of different yarns are developed in international market depending upon the properties, end-uses, different finish- es, different textures and different looks. Currently most of high performance and specialty fibres are be- ing imported from outside in India and the demand for the same COVER STORY
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    15March 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com willbe rising in future in multifold with kind of growth in the sec- tors like automobile, infrastructure, sports, health and hygiene & many industries etc. Indian entrepreneurs can capitalize this great untapped opportunity. Classic example is Recron®- a polyester fibre brand of Reliance Industries. It is developed in wide ranges depending on applications like Recron® Easy Stretch, Recron® FR ( Fire retardant), Recron® LP (low-pill tow and fibre), Recron® Super bright, Recron® Dyefast, Recron® Micrelle, Recron® 3S, Recron® Superdye& many more. The fundamental strength of the Indian textile industry is its strong production base of wide range of fibre / yarns from natural fibres like cotton, jute, silk and wool to synthetic /man-made fibres like polyester, viscose, nylon and acrylic. Now, time has come to focus more on value added yarns which can fetch good margins to Indian spinners than conventional yarns& thereafter taking the final value addition in smart textiles. COVER STORY Fibre consumption is rising and in particular, filaments are find- ing use in an increasing number of applications. For the short staple spinning mill, the trend is also towards man-made fibres, but espe- cially to blends with various fibre materials. Thus the functionality of the end product can be specifically influenced. Experts agree that with growing prosperity the fibre consump- tion per head will continue to increase. Forecasts assume that by 2030 the worldwide fibre consumption will rise to approx. 115 mil- liontons (PCI, 2015) (Fig. 1). All raw materials will contribute to this growth, however fila- ments more than staple fibres. The share of filaments will increase- from 39 % in 2010 to 49 % in 2030. New applications, particularly in the finer yarn count range, willcontribute to this. Filaments have good functional properties- for textile as well as technical applications. The development is also driven by the growing share of knitted fabric applications with icreasingly finer gauge. Notably with fine yarn counts, filaments are particularly economic. Despite this development, the consumption of short staple fibres will rise to around 58 million tons (Fig. 2). In the short staple spinning mill, the share of cotton will decrease from 54 % in 2010 to 48 % in 2030. The absolute consumption will grow slightly from 25 million tons in 2010 to 28 million tons in 2030 (Fig. 3). Around half the fibres will be processed in the it pure form. Theot her hal fwill bespun to blended yarns. The blends from cot- ton with polyester dominate the blended yarns with almost 50 %. The blend in go fibres is made for two important reasons. One is that polyester is a cost-effective fibre and the raw material price is an important parameter for the whole yarn costs. The oth- er is tha tthe yarn characteristics can be specifically influenced by blends (seealso Th. Weide, 2014, „Rieter Manual of Spinning“ Vol- ume 7, Chapter 4). These two reasons, costs and function, as well as the limited grow the potential of cotton, mean that the share of blends will- continue to increase. Looking at the use of the yarns, cotton dominates the under- wear sector. Viscose is also used as 100 % raw material in all applica- tions. With technical textiles, 100 % polyester or its blends dominate. With outer wear, polyester dominat esespecially in blends with cot- ton and viscose as is similarly the case with home textiles (Fig. 4). With the increasing use of man-made fibres, new questions arise for the short staple spinning mill. The Rieter Manual of Spin- ning Volume 7 deals comprehensively with the technological ques- tions (Fig. 5). To manufacture a yarn from different fibre types, the spinning mill has to fulfil two requirements: produce the right blend ratio and mix the two fibre types well. A good and evenblend is important for a uniform distribution of the fibres in the yarn diameter and on the running length of the thread. This, so that at every point in the yarn the blended fibre types appear in the- same ratio. The fibre there fore has the samecharacteristics, such as strength and dyeing capacity, at every point. Sustainable trend for man-made fibres
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    16 March 2017www.textilevaluechain.com FT6Eand FT7E: leading-edge roving frame technology Introduction Few machines in a modern spinning mill are as critical as the roving frame. Building a solid and reliable roving frame is not an easy task and yet again it is absolutely necessary for the spinner as this machine can feed, depending on the count being produced, thousands of spindles at the spinning frames. Marzoli, the only European manufacturer of the full line of machines for spinning of short staple fibers with over 150 roving frames being sold every year worldwide, is the ideal referent for whoever wants to choose the best technology. Its FT6E and FT7E represent a state-of-the-art solution, yielding the best results for ef- ficiency, reliability and quality. The article aims at presenting from a technical and technological point of view these machines. Drive system The FT6E and FT7E are driv- en by independent drives for the drafting system, the flyers, the spindles and the bobbin rail. Every drive is coordinated by the central CPU which ensures perfect synchronization of all the movements involved in bobbin formation. The spindles drive is a group drive where motion is transmit- ted through toothed belts. In traditional machines spindles are moved by one motor which, through a long shaft, transmits motion to bevel gears which drive pulleys that drive belts which ultimately make spindles rotate. A group drive allows to substantially simplify this transmission sys- tem. The drive comprises several motors, each one driving a limited number of spindles. Each motor, through a pulley, drives toothed belts which transmit motion directly to the spindles. Shafts, gear boxes and bevel gears are eliminated. Therefore it is possible to: ƒ reduce maintenance costs: fewer transmission components are needed and lubrication is no longer required; ƒ reduce noise; ƒ reduce vibrations: lower mechanical transmission entails low- er wear of transmission components and therefore lower vi- brations. This enables the machine to work at higher speeds; ƒ increase transmission efficiency: transmission system com- prises only a pulley and toothed belts: no shafts, no bevel gears are included. This allows to reduce energy consump- tion. Drafting system Marzoli roving frames can be equipped with a 3-over-3 or 4-over-4 top-of-the-class drafting system. There are two options for the cylinder diameters: the standard solution has a diameter of 32mm; however, in case there is a high percentage of short fibers in the processed material, cylinders with a diameter of 27mm can be used to reduce the gauge between nipping points. This guarantees a better control of short fibers during draft. Marzoli drafting system can also rely on highly efficient cleaners for both top rollers and bottom drafting cylinders. For top rollers there are two options: rollers with rubber fins and revolving felt belts. For the bottom cylinders there are rubber scrapers. These solutions guarantee that at every turn both top rollers and bottom cylinders are always cleaned. This, along with the high quality of each and every component, entails the perfect control of fibers during draft and top quality of the roving. False twist area As bobbins on modern roving frames are arranged in two rows, rovings can have different angles at the deliv- ery of the drafting system and at the entrance of the fly- ers’ top. It has been argued that these different angles can entail differences in the spinning triangle at draft delivery and different tensions of the rovings thereby causing an uneven take up of twist and variations in roving count. On Marzoli machines all rovings lay parallel to one another: they have the same angle at the delivery of the drafting system and at the flyers’ entrance for both the front row and the back row of bobbins. Individual sensors ensure that each and every roving break is properly detected and the machine securely stopped, even in case of roving overlap around the cylinder/top roller. On the other hand, if dust passed in front of the sensors the machine would not stop, it would continue to run. Individual sensors also make suction not re- quired. This, along with the IE3 motors and an overall design meant to minimize energy consumption, allows to save up to 4 Kwh. Roving tension is kept constant within a pre-set range through sensors that constantly monitor roving’s fluctuations between the delivery of the drafting system and the flyer’s top and adjust the speed of the spindles accordingly. These sensors play an important role in ensuring that there are no false drafts in the roving and that roving breaks are kept to a minimum. Winding area It is argued that to increase productivity and lower investment costs, spindlage and dimension of bobbins should be increased. This is only partially true: a higher number of spindles per machine COVER STORY
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    17March 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com reducesthe cost of the investment as the total required num- ber of spindles can be reached with fewer machines. From a unit cost (cost per spindle) point of view, there is an economic advan- tage that stems from the amortization of the cost of the head and rear stocks on a higher number of spindles per machine. However, the higher the number of spindles, the smaller the benefit stemming from a further increase in machine’s length. Machines exceeding a certain number of spindles also entail higher costs for electronics and drafting drive. Last but not least a higher number of spindles per machine causes a reduction in efficiency. The FT6E (110mm gauge) can reach 224 spindles and produce bobbins of 16” x 6”. The FT7E (130mm gauge) has a spindlage up to 168 spindles and can produce packages of 16” x 7”. These numbers represent the limit in terms of number of spindles and dimensions of bobbins to maintain top efficiency standards. A higher number of spindles per machine would not give an additional benefit to the spinner as the decrease in machine efficiency would not be coun- terbalanced by the reduction in the average cost per spindle. The flyers installed on Marzoli’s roving frames are made of ultra- light alloy and are dynamically balanced so that even when working at high speeds, vibrations are kept to a minimum. Marzoli’s roving frames can reach up to 1,500 rpm mechanically and the roving can be wound on standard tubes, with a diameter of 53.5 mm, or on thinner tubes , with a diameter of 48mm, to have a further slight increase in bobbin capacity. The creel The creel is equipped with hexagonal aluminum rollers to pre- vent false drafts, a very important aspect especially when working with combed slivers. Optic sensors positioned between the roll- ers ensure that in case of sliver break the machine is immediately stopped. Marzoli roving frames can be fed with cans with a diam- eter of up to 24” which allow to reduce machine stops and increase its efficiency. Doffing One of the most crucial aspects on modern roving frames is au- tomation especially on doffing since doff is costly, frequent, has a quite-important negative influence on efficiency (especially on long roving frames) and, if done manually, can damage the roving bob- bins. Nowadays several options for automatic doffing are available. One of the simplest, most reliable and fastest, automatic doffing systems is the one that Marzoli has implemented, tested and refined in the last twenty years. With this so- lution in less than 3 minutes full bob- bins are replaced with empty tubes and the machine is restarted. During the new doffing cycle, the full bobbins are forwarded to the trans- port system which carries the packages to the spinning frames. Also a semi automatic doffing option of the machine is avail- able. With this version ergonomics has been substantially improved if compared to standard manual-doffing machines. After bobbin formation is completed, the bobbin rail lowers and tilts out for an easy bobbin collection. Furthermore, there is a parking rail in front of the bobbin rail with empty tubes so that substitution of full bob- bins with empty tubes is as easy as possible. With the release of the FT6E and FT7E Marzoli offers also a third option: the roving frame with the pre-arrangement for automatic- doffing upgrade. During doffing the bobbin rail lowers and slides out horizontally, just like the fully-automatic model. Besides per- mitting an easy collection of the full bobbins, this solution allows an easy and cost efficient upgrade of the machine to the fully-au- tomatic version. Energy efficiency To succeed in the highly competitive and globalized sector spin- ners must minimize production costs of whom energy consump- tion represents an important component. Marzoli roving frames represent an outstanding machine from the energy consumption point of view. This machine is the only one available on the market that does not need suction. In fact thanks to the individual sensors installed as standard any roving break can be promptly identified. No suction is required to capture the bro- ken roving and make it pass in front of the photocell. This, along with the IE3 premium efficiency motors, the light weight components (e.g. the bobbin rail in aluminum) and an overall design meant to minimize friction and transmission ineffi- ciencies, entails an energy saving of over 4 Kwh for every hour of operation. COVER STORY
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    18 March 2017www.textilevaluechain.com Doyou have water Balance sheet of your factory?? We are back, as promised, to take you on further into the world of Textile industry. As we said last time, “Textile industry is not only about the final product or material, it goes beyond the obvious.” Every minute thing on the final product requires special skillsets. No one section is more important than the other. They all are equal- ly very important. In the last edition, we focused on the different fibres, manu- facturers, and spinning techniques. In this edition, we will look in details on processes like weaving, knitting, processing, and gar- menting. Weaving is about how the threads are interlocked to form the basis of a fabric or a cloth. The characteristics of the cloth are very much dependent on the ways these threads are interlocked. Weav- ing can be defined as the repetition of the following three actions, also known as the primary motion of the loom: 1. Shedding: where the ends are separated by raising or lower- ing heald frames to form a clear space where the pick can pass. 2. Picking: where the weft or pick is propelled across the loom by hand, an air-jet, a rapier, or a shuttle 3. Beating-up or battening: where the weft is pushed up against the fell of the cloth by the reed. The secondary motions of the loom are: 1. Let off Motion: where the warp is let off the warp beam at a regulated speed to make the filling even, filling here refers to the filling between the threads, and of the required design. 2. Take up Motion: Takes up the woven fabric in a regulated manner so that the density of filling is maintained. The tertiary motions of the loom are two stop motions, wrap stop motion and weft stop motion. These motions are important to stop in the loom in the event of the thread break. Let us know a little about the weavers. There are a variety of them. 1. Handloom weavers: We all have heard of handloom material and handloom artifacts. Every time there is an handloom exhibi- tion, we all rush to get a few handcrafted things. Previously, it was a male dominated job. 2. Power loom infection: As the name suggests, machines are used in this technique to do everything. Girls and young women used to take care of these machines and operated them for weav- ing purpose. Now let us move on to knitting. Knitting is about putting those yarns together to create a design. It creates multiple loops in yarns called stitches, in a line or a tube. It has multiple active stitches on the needle at a time. If you have a look at the knitted fabric, there are a multiple loops in consecutive rows. Not only loops in a row but also the rows are interlocked. Knitting can be done by hand or machines. Hand knitting is the most conventional method of knitting. There are many hundreds of different knitting stitches used by hand knitters. A piece of hand knitting begins with the process of casting on, which involves the initial creation of the stitches on the needle. Mega knitting is a term recently coined and relates to the use of knitting needles greater than or equal to half an inch in diameter. Mega knitting uses the same stitches and techniques as con- ventional knitting, except that hooks are carved into the ends of the needles. The hooked needles greatly enhance control of the work, catching the stitches and preventing them from slipping off. It was the development of the knitting machine that introduced hooked needles and enabled faultless, automated knitting. Let us move on to the textile processing. Textile processing or manufacturing is based on converting yarn to fabric or fabric to yarn. These are then dyed and/or printed and fabricated into the final product. There are various types of processing techniques. These techniques differ from the base material to material. Once all the processes discusses in these two articles, process- ing, spinning, weaving or knitting are done, the finishing and mar- keting take place. Finishing is the finishing of the final product that includes, checking the quality, damage, packaging, tagging, etc. Marketing is where the product is marketed, a need is created and the product is sold. The world of Textile COVER STORY This article focuses on importance of water audits, commercial impact of the same on profitable manufacturing and measures on reducing the water footprint on various types of industries. The wa- ter balance sheet of any industry gives you insight of current situa- tion and roadmap for future water conservation action plan. As the financial year end is close by, every business is busy in financial closure. But have you ever made your water resource bal- ance sheet? It’s high time for the same too. Water is a precious natural national resource with almost fixed quantum of availability. With continuous growth in country’s pop- ulation, per capita availability of utilizable water is going down, whereas with ever-rising standard of living of people, all around rapid industrialization and urbanization, demand of fresh water is going up continuously. Unabated discharge of industrial effluents into water bodies is further aggravating the situation of scarcity of water of Acceptable quality. In spite of the fact that fresh water is rapidly becoming scarce it is continued to be used wastefully. Rapid industrialization and urbanization coupled with continu- ous decline in per capita water availability is putting a lot of pres- Ms.Chitralekha Vaidya CEO, Varshasookt Consultants varshasookt@gmail.com By TVC Team
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    19March 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com sureon the available water resources in the country. Hence, it is important to understand the dynamics behind water audit and its impact on profitability of production. What Is Water Used For? Water is used by commercial, institutional and industrial cus- tomers for five primary purposes: y Indoor domestic use (rest rooms, kitchens, and laundries) y cooling and heating y landscape irrigation y processing of materials y As an ingredient Examples of water uses in commercial and institutional facilities y Indoor (Domestic) Water Kitchens, cafeterias, staff rooms – ƒ Faucets , Distilled/drinking water, Ice machines , Dishwashers ƒ Garbage disposals , Food preparation , Restrooms and show- ers , Faucets , Toilets and urinals , Showers Laundry - washing machines Sanitation ƒ Facility cleaning , Sterilization/autoclaves , Equipment wash- ing , Dust control , Container washing Processes – photographic and x-ray processing, silk screening, dry cleaning , printing , etc. y Cooling and Heating ƒ Cooling towers/evaporative , coolers Boilers and steam sys- tems Once-through cooling , Air conditioners , Air compres- sors , Hydraulic equipment , Degreasers ,Rectifiers ,Vacuum pumps , Outdoor Water Use , Irrigation , Pools and spas ,Dec- orative water features While establishing any new industry, water and energy are 2 most important factors considered from any factory and process- ing industry operation point of view. And, water audits can play very important role in the assessment. Water audits are effective methods to account for all water usage within a facility in order to identify opportunities to improve water use efficiency. Benefits from implementation of water audit may include lower utility costs, energy savings, and reduced process costs. Water put in the system water used in processes, activities Unaccounted water y Water For drinking y Water for cleaning y Water as raw material in process y Effluent generated y domestic wastewater Gen- erated y Leakage from reservoirs y Leakage from pipe net- works y Leakage from Taps y Evaporation Losses What is Water Conservation? Water conservation, also known as water use efficiency, is an integral part of water supply planning and water resource manage- ment. Water conservation is defined as the beneficial reduction in water use, waste, and loss. Water conservation is becoming a viable alternative and complement to developing new water sup- plies. While short-term water restrictions imposed during a water shortage can temporarily relieve pressure on water sources, lasting water conservation involves a combination of retrofits, new water saving appliances, maintenance of infrastructure, and a collective water conservation ethic focused on resource use, allocation, and protection. What is water audit? A water audit is an on-site survey and assessment of water-us- ing hardware, fixtures, equipment, landscaping, and management practices to determine the efficiency of water use and to develop recommendations for improving water-use efficiency. In simple words, a water audit is a systematic review of a site that identifies the quantities and characteristics of all the water uses. The site may vary from a public water utility, facility (institutional or commercial properties like malls, office, schools etc.) or a household. The over- all objective of conducting a water audit is to identify opportunities to make system or building water use more efficient. Facility water audits include – ƒ accurate measurement of all water entering the facility ƒ the inventory and calculation of all on-site water uses and any unused water sources or waste streams that may be available ƒ calculation of water related costs ƒ And identification of potential water efficiency measures. ƒ The information from the water audit forms the basis for a comprehensive conservation program to implement specific water saving measures throughout the facility. The conserva- tion program may consist of one or more projects in different areas of the facility. Estimation of Wastewater Generation action plan to reduce the generation It is difficult to assess wastewater generation from industries on the basis of average generation of wastewater per product unit, mainly due to large variations in volume of wastewater generation per product unit. However owing to various constraints, present estimation of industrial wastewater is based on average generation of wastewater per unit product. The volume of wastewater and concentration of various pol- lutants in industrial discharge vary depending on manufacturing processes and other factors such as housekeeping, reuse, technol- ogy, etc. Even for a given manufacturing process, the amount of wastewater generation depends on several factors, for instance: a) Housekeeping practices - Housekeeping practices refer to simple measures such as arresting leaks from pipes, stopping of un- necessary overflows from the vessels, improving material handling procedures to reduce losses. Poor housekeeping results in signifi- cant generation of wastewater. B) Extent of process control - Process control includes setting up of process parameters to optimum levels leading to best possi- ble yields and minimum wastage of water. Product quality require- ments refer to commercial specifications, which may vary depend- ing on market. c) Product quality – Product quality requirements including packaging - Achieving better quality generally require additional processing and improved raw materials and thus may generate more wastes. d) Management systems initiatives - The management sys- tems include entire sequence of raw material processing, technol- ogy and production of finished product. COVER STORY
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    20 March 2017www.textilevaluechain.com Theemphasis on curtailing wastage in handling and improve- ment in operation processes through better management can lead to minimization of wastes. The results from water audits should be used for leak detection, minimization of wastewater generated, implementation of water conservation plans such as Rainwater harvesting and watershed management, wastewater recycling, zero liquid discharge policy and so on. Selection of Right kind of technology for wastewater Treatment Reuse:- It is very important to select right kind of technology for waste- water processing. Generally emphasis is given only on capital cost and operation maintenance, recurring costs are overlooked. Hence, it is important to answer following questions before narrowing down on choice of technology. Need for implementation of long term sustainable measures like Rainwater Harvesting India has enough rainwater available throughout the year. It is question of utilizing the same. As the rainwater is purest source of fresh water, it is important to have long term vision about business sustainability and not just short term vision of payback criteria. As availability of water can largely hamper the production, it must be considered while investing in other short term options like purchas- ing water from outside temporary resources. Small Industry Wise Tips Hospitals ƒ Bathroom fixture replace- ment ƒ Cooling tower efficiency ret- rofits ƒ Laundry equipment and pro- cess changes ƒ Condensate return systems for sterilizers ƒ Conversion from x-rays to digital imaging Hotels and Motels ƒ Bathroom fixture replace- ment ƒ Laundry equipment and pro- cess changes ƒ Guest conservation aware- ness programs to promote less frequent linen exchang- es to reduce laundry Schools ƒ Bathroom fixture replace- ment ƒ Cooling tower efficiency ret- rofits ƒ Irrigation efficiency meas- ures such as weather- or moisture-based irrigation controllers Restaurants ƒ Water efficiency training and information for kitchen staff ƒ Use air-cooled equipment such as icemakers ƒ Bathroom fixture replace- ment ƒ Water efficient appliances and best management prac- tices during their use It is a typical mindset of the industry that profits are generally made by not treating wastewater properly and hence saving on the treatment cost. But as the “polluters pay” policy is becoming effective day by day, there is requirement of paradigm shift from mindset of “profit in pollution” to “profit from water recovery” and “resource recovery from waste”. COVER STORY Flamboyant Brazilian-born designer Daniella Helayelcollabo- rates with Koovsfor The Princess Collection.A favourite of Kate – Duchess of Cambridge, her designs havealso been worn by A-List female celebrities from Madonna and Kylie to JLo and Ellie Gould- ing, and Keira Knightly to Scarlett Johansson and Eva Mendes, all loving her signature style - cut to feel sexy, fit and flatter. Inspired by Pippa Middleton’s much anticipated wedding and launching in May to coincide with the summer party season, the collection will be effortlessly elegant with a young fun twist and offer seamless day to evening wear - perfect for any occasion. Dan- iella, was already dressing A-List stars when she was catapulted to global status when Kate Middleton chose to wear her iconic sap- phire blue silk jersey dress to announce her engagement to Prince William in 2010. Daniella’sPrincess Collection for Koovs will build on her state- ment fit-and-flare jersey, with bright fun and flamboyant prints, exciting fabrics and the latest young colours and styles. Featuring baby pink, ‘Kiss Me’ prints, metallics, off the shoulder ruffles and halter necks in every length from mini to maxi, the collection will offer something for every woman. Having returned to fashion last year with her new label Dhela,this is her first collaboration with Koovs specifically foryoung style-conscious women in India. Daniella Helayel says: “I started de- signing to make clothes that made women feel sexy and confident – clothes that could move seamlessly from daywear to evening, that looked great and that lasted.I believe that feeling gorgeous, sophisticated and confident should be accessible to every woman.” Mary Turner, CEO Koovs, says: “The Duchess and Pippa have become global style icons and what they wear is watched all over the world. We are delighted to take that inspiration with our first Princess Collection for India and we will beexcited to reveal all in May – so watch this space.” Kate Middleton and A-List designer-favourite Daniella Helayel collaborates with Koovs for The Princess Collection NEWS
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    21March 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com Thewheel of retailing keeps on rotating but not necessarily in the same place. From the first retail concept i.e. Barter system to the latest lifestyle retail concept, retailing of apparelhas changed significantly with time. Retailers were basically purchasing agents for the residents of a specific locality or area, reflecting closely those customers’ life-styles, brand preferences, shopping hours etc. Indian Apparel is the largest segment of the Indian Textile and Clothing Industry (ITC); accounts 60-65% of the total Industry. Fur- thermore, it is one of the largest sources of foreign exchange flow into the country. As per the data published by Ministry of Textiles, in its annual report 2015-16, India is ranked as 6th largest exporter of apparel in the world after China, Bangladesh, Vietnam, Germany and Italy (source: care ratings). Apparel marketof Jammu is flour- ishing day by day and so are the demands of the customers. To in- crease my appetite for knowledge for “what customers want”, a study was conducted in Jammu by interacting with the customers. This study is qualitative in nature. The population frame is the cus- tomers of the lifestyle retail store of Jammu in India. The data were collected through focus group interviews. 10 focus group inter- views were conducted at thedifferent place across Jammu region. Out of 10 focus group interviews, 6 focus groups were females and 4 were that of males. Age of the females varies from 19 years to 45 whereas the age of the males varies from 20-30. Each group comprised of 5-7 homogeneous participants. The focus group in- terviews were unstructured and moderator started the discussion by commenting on the topic to which the participants reacted. Moderator first introduced herself to the participants and the ob- jective of conducting theinterview was stated to them. The time frame of each focus-group interview was up to 35-45 minutes. The moderator intervened only when there was silence in the group so that the discussion can be carried on. No more than 10 questions were asked by the moderator. All the interviews were conducted in person and discussions were audio-recorded. The following is atranscription of a focused group interview: “Good Morning and welcome to our session. In order to find out factors that influence the customers ‘choice of apparellifestyle retail store, I invite all of you to participate in this session. I want to know what are your preferences for apparel stores and which factors impact your choice of apparel store. I will be having discus- sions like this with several groups of both the gender. You were selected on the basis of purposeful. There are no right and wrong answers but somewhat different points of view. Feel free to share your point of view even if it differs from what others have said. I will be tape recording the session so that all valuable com- ments don’t get missed. Participants often share very useful things in these discussions and I may not be able to pen down all the im- portant points. Only one person will speak at a point and there is no need to get aggressive, all of you will be given enough time to ex- press your point of views. You don’t have to agree with what oth- ers are saying, but you must listen patiently as others share their views. I will start with the person sitting on the right. First of all give a brief introduction of yourself, your name, age, gender, area, and income. Introduce yourself one by one and as the introduction is done, we will start with the discussion. I as a moderator will guide you at the time of requirement. I won’t interfere much. Now, you can start the discussion.” Ten focus groups interviews were conducted on the same top- ic. These interviews were conducted for several days and enough time was provided to each focus group so that all the participants can speak. It takes more than one focus group on any one topic to produce valid results – usually three or four. The focus group mod- erator responsibly covered all the questions in thetime allotted. The quality of the data obtained from an in-depth interview or focus group is based upon the level of thought involved in the development of the questions (Patton, 2002). There are six main types of open-ended in-depth interview or focus groups questions: (1) experience or behavior questions, (2) sensory questions, (3) opinion or value questions, (4) knowledge questions, (5) feeling questions, and (6) background or demographic questions (Patton, 2002). Experience or behavior questions are intended to get at an interviewee’s actions, either past or present. In particular, a partici- pant’s answers should reflect a direct observation that could have been made by watching the participant. These kinds of questions are often followed by sensory questions. This is a useful question- ing technique as such questions focus on things that the inter- viewee has actually experienced, and can help them to better recall other experiences. Opinion or value questions are designed to elicit interviewees’ knowledge of a specific phenomenon or experience and provide useful insight into their goal. Knowledge questions seek factual information from interviewees. Feeling questions are intended to produce a narrative of an emotion from the partici- pant.Background or demographic questions are useful for the char- acterization of the people participating in the in-depth interview or focus group (Patton, 2002). Once the in-depth interview or focus group questions are drafted, it is significant to make sure that they conform to a few guidelines. First, the questions should be open-ended and neutral. This means that the questions should neither make an assumption about what the interviewee thinks about the topic nor should they offer any clues as to what the interviewer hopes the interviewee will say. Second, the questions should focus on one topic at a time. The questions should not dichotomous. Third, your questions, as well as the topic, should not be vague, there should be clarity in the questions (Patton, 2002). The key to achieving this is to think care- fully about the kind of information you anticipate from each ques- tion in the in-depth interview question guide. With the question wording finalized, the questions should be in a coherent order. The interviewer needs to guide the participants through the questions. The main questions that were asked were: What kind of apparel stores do you prefer?; What are major Jammu Apparel Market COVER STORY Dr. Hari Govind Mishra Assistant Professor School of Business Faculty of Management Shri Mata Vaishno Devi University, Katra, JK
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    22 March 2017www.textilevaluechain.com componentsthat you consider before buying apparel?Are these factors interlinked to each other?From which store do you often shop?Why that particular store?Is there anything that you would like to add? ” These set of questions were mainly asked by the moderators. We will come to know that enough data has been collected when we stop hearing anything new anymore, i.e. the point of satura- tion. The saturation of data occurs when repetition of data starts to happen. The study reveals that demographic factors of consumers do influence apparel retail store choice. It was also observed that re- tail store choice is a hierarchical process which not only depends on demographic attributes but also on the current needs of a con- sumer. Fashion consciousness and comfort seeking are the signifi- cant predictors for apparel store choice decisions. Social factors, family, brand conscious, thelocation of thestore and price are significant predictors for lifestyle store choice decisions. All these variable such as society, fashion, culture, uniqueness, family, brand and price are the major lifestyle factors. We can say that customer’s lifestyle is based on these factors and choose their lifestyle store on the basis of these factors. It was also found that factors like situa- tion specific and retail store attributes impact customers’ choice. The overall results of this study show that apparel shoppers are influenced by various factors in choosing a store. No single retail factor seems to be dominant in meeting consumer needs/wants, all the factors play anequivalent role in choosing a lifestyle retail store. Consumer’s socio-economic, demographic and geographic and personal characteristics have significant association with the choice of retail store Consumers focus on factors like Brand avail- ability, fashion, trend/style, price, variety of merchandise, comfort, store location, social status, and hedonism or recreation and then move into a particular store within the format where they can save time, money and effort. This study also provides valuable information to retailers in re- lation to customersapparel store choice in Indian lifestyle goods retailing. Understanding how preferences vary with consumer fac- tors is a key element in developing successful retail marketing strat- egies. It can be inferred that it is also possible to affect the orienta- tions of the shoppers by offering modern retail formats. These findings would enable retailers to develop an effective marketing strategy to optimize the use of marketing and promo- tional resources in meeting the needs of discerning target custom- ers. With the intensified level of competition in today’s apparel market, an increasing number of stores are currently facing difficul- ties in operating profitability. These retailersneed to adjust market communications and repositioning themselves to retain the exist- ing and attracting potential customers. India’s 62% of the population is in the working age group and more than 54% is below the age of 25. The labour force in the com- ing twenty year is estimated to decrease by 4% while that in India is expected to increase by 32%. It could be a challenge for the Govern- ment to provide jobs for such huge numbers.The Prime Minister’s vision of Make in India is aimed at creating jobs for millions in the coming years. This is supported by Skill India Mission which aims to train 1 crore people by 2020 to cater to the new jobs being created. There are a number of Training Providers and certifying agencies conducting training/Skilling programmes of a vast variety in the country. This also brings the need to standardise the skilling eco- system so that all trainee certified skilled for a particular job role by different agencies are considered at par. Ministry of Skill Development Entrepreneurship aims to do this through National Skills Qualification Frameworkwhich explains the governing guidelines for all Skill Development course in the Country.The Ministry of Finance, through its notification number No. 8/6/2013-Invt.dated 27th December, 2013 has notified that National Skills Qualification Framework (NSQF) will be applica- ble since December 2013 and all other frameworks, including the NVEQF (National Vocational Educational Qualification Framework) released by the Ministry of HRD, cease to exist, and are superseded by the NSQF. The Notification entitles NSQF compliant training/ educational programmes/courses to receive government funding on a preferential basis since December 2013. After the third anniversary date of the notification of the NSQF,(December, 2016), Government funding would not be avail- able for any training/ educational programme/ course which is not NSQF-compliant and all government-funded training and educa- tional institutions shall define eligibility criteria for admission to various courses in terms of NSQF levels. The recruitment rules of the Government of India and the public sector enterprises of the central government shall also be amended to define eligibility crite- ria for all positions in terms of NSQF levels. State Governments shall be encouraged to amend their recruitment rules as well as those of their public sector enterprises to define eligibility criteria for all positions in terms of NSQF levels. After the fifth anniversary date of the notification of the NSQF it shall be mandatory for all train- ing/educational programmes/courses to be NSQF-compliant and all training and educational institutions shall define eligibility criteria for admission to various courses in terms of NSQF levels. A register of all NSQF approved qualifications will be available at www.nqr.gov.inThe institutions wishing to avail Government funding for Skilling must align their courses to NSQF approved qualifications. They may contact the respective awarding bodies (SSCs/NCVT) for this. The details of Sector Skill Councils (SSCs) are available at www.nsdcindia.org The author is working with the Textile Sector Skill Council (TSC) which is mandated to develop Skill Ecosystem for Textile Mill and handloom Sector. Further details on TSC may be accessed at www. texskill.in or writing to info@texskill.in NSQF level compliance of Skill Development courses Dr. Swapna Mishra (Director) Textile Sector Skill Council (TSC) COVER STORY HR FOCUS
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    23March 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com UNITEDNATIONS: India has ranked a lowly 131 among the 188 countries surveyed for human development, a new UN report has said, bracketing the third-largest Asian economy alongside its South Asian neighbours like Pakistan, Bhutan and Nepal. India has made no improvement in its ranking over the previ- ous year, despite the Human Development Report for 2015 noting that foreign direct investment favours countries such as China and India. India’s Human Development Index rank in 2014 was also 131. However, 63 per cent Indians were “satisfied” with their stand- ard of living in 2014-15, the latest report found. The report, released annually by the UN Development Pro- gramme, said India’s rank of 131 puts it in the “medium human de- velopment” bracket, which also includes nations like Bangladesh, Bhutan, Pakistan, Kenya, Myanmar and Nepal. India’s HDI rank value in 2015 stood at 0.624, which had in- creased from 0.580 in 2010. Its life expectancy at birth stood at 68.3 years in 2015 and the Gross National Income (GNI) per capita $5,663, the report said. On the perception of feeling safe 69 per cent answered “yes”, while on freedom of choice, 72 per cent female responders an- swered they were “satisfied” as compared to 78 per cent for male. India’s score for overall life satisfaction was 4.3 on a scale of 1-10, according to the report. On perceptions about government, 69 per cent said they had trust in the national government for the 2014-15 period while 74 per cent said they had confidence in the judicial system. It lauded measures like the National Rural Employment Guaran- tee Programme taken in India to generate employment. “Creating jobs through a public works programme targeted at poor people can reduce poverty through income generation, build physical infra- structure and protect poor people against shocks. The National Rural Employment Guarantee Programme in India and the Rural Employment Opportunities for Public Assets Programme in Bangladesh are prime examples.” The report noted that increasing clean energy investments in India by 1.5 per cent of GDP a year for 20 years will generate a net increase of about 10 million jobs annually in the country, after fac- toring in job losses from retrenchments in the fossil fuel industries. The report launched in Stockholm yesterday found that al- though the average human development improved significantly since 1990, progress is uneven, with systemic discrimination against women, indigenous peoples and ethnic minorities. It said while many people have greater access to education, health and sanitation, more focus needs to be paid to who has been excluded and why. “By eliminating deep, persistent, discriminatory social norms and laws, and addressing the unequal access to political participa- tion, which have hindered progress for so many, poverty can be eradicated and a peaceful, just, and sustainable development can be achieved for all,” said UNDP Administrator Helen Clark. Titled Human Development for Everyone, the report authored by the Director of the Human Development Report Office SelimJa- han, said that one in three people worldwide continue to live at a low level of human development. Women and girls are systematically excluded by economic, po- litical, social and cultural barriers, according to the report measured by the Human Development Index - a ranking of countries based on strides made with a peace-centric model of progress. “Women tend to be poorer, earn less, and have fewer opportu- nities in most aspects of life than men,” it said. The report also points to “dangerous practices,” such as female genital mutilation and forced marriage, which continue to hamper the development of women and their inclusion in society. In addition to women and girls, the report points to “patterns of exclusion and lack of empowerment” of people in rural areas, indigenous peoples, ethnic minorities, people with disabilities, mi- grants and refugees, and members of the lesbian,gay, bisexual, transgender and intersex community. The report calls for far greater attention to empowering the most marginalised in society, and recognises the importance of giv- ing them greater voice in decision-making processes. India, the third-largest Asian economy, ranked 131 on Human Development Index: UN Protective works wear for workers working in cement industry Prof (Dr) M.S.Parmar, Shweta Saxena and Vasundhara Verma Northern India Textile Research Association, Sector-23, Rajnagar, Ghaziabad-201002, U.P, India The demand of cement requirement is increasing every year in India. At present, the capacity of cement production in India is 390 million tones, which is expected to further increase due to govern- ment’s push for large infrastructure projects. With the increase in use of Portland cement in India, its adverse effect on health of workers working in cement construction sites and manufacturing industries has become a burning issue. Thousands of construction workers are exposed to concrete every day without knowing its harmful effect on their health. Cement is chemical and highly alka- line in nature. At wet stage, the pH of cement is more than 12.9, has the ability to create third degree burns. When the skin of worker, come in regular contact of this wet concrete, it may get affected and resulted dermatitis. Signs and symptoms of dermatitis can in- clude itching, redness, swelling, blisters, scaling and other changes HR FOCUS TECHNICAL TEXTILE
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    24 March 2017www.textilevaluechain.com inthe normal conditions of skin. In India, workers are still not provided proper protective work wear while working in cement related work especially during the use of concrete. Therefore, to understand the performance re- quirements on the fabric for cement workers protective clothing, a survey was conducted by NITRA on DMRC, NDMC, PWD and private builders. Workers of some cement manufacturing units were also surveyed to gather information related to protective work wear. It was found by survey that most of the agencies are not providing suitable protective work wear to the workers. A few of the agencies are providing cotton gloves, masks and reflective jackets, which are not sufficient to protect them from cement dust and slurry. To pre- vent cement dust, cement porters/workers generally wear multiple layers of garments. But these layering of garments do not give full proof prevention from cement dust. It was also reveled from the survey that they were having good health before joining this trade. But after joining this trade they began to show symptom of eyes swelling, respiratory problems, skin burning etc. Requirement Priority order Performance Purpose Protection 1 Dustproof property To avoid cement dust contacting with skin 2 Strength Abrasion resistance including UV resistance To resist the friction in particular position Comfort 3 Thermal-Moisture equilibrium* (Wa- ter vapour or moisture permeability) To maintain thermal moisture com- fort 4 Appropriate weight and thickness To avoid additional load Other 5 Easy-washing Quick drying Convenient for maintenance 6 Colour Fit for the working environment 7 Cost Work wear should have low cost Synthetics grey fabrics production down upto 30%, yarn price reversed Because of workers shortage and decreased demand in fin- ished fabrics, the production of polyester raw grey fabrics is re- duced by almost 30% in Surat. Ahead of Holi festival, the exodus of the workers has hit hard the powerloom and processing industries. Sources said, out of 10 lakh workers employed in the textile sector, over three lakh have moved out of the city due to assembly elec- tion in Uttar Pradesh and the Holi-Dhuleti festival. There are over 1.5 lakh workers have yet to return. About 30% powerloom factories are operating in one shift only. The weavers are also not interested to increase the production. They are purchasing yarn as per the requirement instead of stocking. Decreased number of orders and crude oil pressure has reversed the synthetic yarn price. In the last week of March, the crude oil prices remained close to 48 dollar. The prices of raw materials of synthetic yarn PTA stood at Rs.50/kg and MEG Rs.56/kg. Various denniers of synthetics yarn declined by Rs. 3 to 5 per Kg. Benchmark 80 crimp yarn prices came down to Rs.112/ kg from Rs.116/117 in the first week of March. 80/72 semidal Roto yarn prices stood at Rs.113/114/kg. down by Rs. 4/kg. To stabilise the prices, the sppinners has declared repeat sale in POY and texurised yarn in second week of March, but now they are offering under ta- ble discount to clear the stocks. The weavers are expecting that reverse trend in yarn prices will remain countinue in April month due to heavy decline in crude oil prices in the international market. No excise duty on ‘sari’, a big relief for Surat textile traders By considering the representation made by various local textile and industrial organisation, the Central Board of Excise and Cus- toms (CBEC) has issued a notification, by which it has kept ‘sari’ out of the ambit of made-ups, which attract 2 per cent excise duty on retail price above Rs1,000. Surat textile industries has welcomed this decision as it is a big relief for the traders. The CBEC issued a circular dated March 15, 2017 for classifying ‘sari’ under chapter 50,52 and 54 of the CETA Act, 1985 and not un- der chapter 63, which attracts duty on the ready-made garments and made-ups. Earlier, textile traders were upset following the decision taken by the Central Government to levy excise duty on articles of tex- tiles, including ready-made garments and made-ups above Rs1,000. Federation of Surat Textile Traders Association (FOSTTA) and Southern Gujarat Chamber of Commerce and Industry (SGCCI) strongly oppose the decision and has made a representation to the central govt. for keeping ‘sari’ out of the ambit of the excise duty levy on retail price of Rs1,000. City’s textile group aided Uri martyrs’ kin Surat textile group Madhu Priya Fashions Private Limited has facilitated the family members of martyrs of Uri attack in JK. The group has organised an event to celebrate its 15 years long business journey in which it has given financial assistance of Rs. ten lakh to 47 family members of martyrs. Company’s chairman and director Vinod Agarwal said, our soldiers are our real heroes. Last year, 18 soldiers martyred fighting the terrorists. He said, “ we thought of inviting the family members of our brave soldiers martyred in our celebration instead of any celebrities.” They decided to help the families of all the martyrs who laid down their lives to protect our borders. This will leave a message among textile industry people to work for the shattered families of our martyrs. A day long cultural programme was also organised during the event. Surat to get centre of excellence for textile sector Country’s largest man-made fabric (MMF) center, Surat can be declared centre of excellence in the near future. This centre will SURAT REPORT TECHNICAL TEXTILE
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    25March 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com helpto conduct research and development of MMF fabrics. During the 3 days Surat International Textile Expo (SITEX) or- ganised by Southern Gujarat Chamber of Commerce and Industry (SGCCI), minister of state for textiles Mr. Ajay Tamta said, the min- istry is considering to provide a centre of excellence and establish- ing a textile park at Pinjrat in the city. The textile minister will visit Surat textile industries on 1st April. The minister will present solar scheme for weaving industries. It is also expected that the minister will announce a centre of excellence and a mega textile park at Su- rat. Earlier, The SGCCI has submitted a proposal for allocation of 80 lakh square meters of land for the mega textile park and to estab- lished the centre of excellence. It will help the MMF sector develop and manufacture different varieties of fabrics that have potential in the domestic as well as the international markets. In January 2007, the Planning Commission of India had called a meeting in New Delhi to assess why the Textile Industries are strug- gling and why the second largest sector in India after agriculture was failing to modernise despite pumping-in a huge amount of money under Technology Upgradation Funds Scheme (TUFS) and its later variants. The apex body, which has now been renamed as Niti Aayog, was shocked to learn that out of the total 22.5 lakh only about 1.5 lakhs are modern and shuttleless machines, rest all are plain pow- erlooms. It was during this meeting that Malegaon Industries Manufacturers Association (MIMA) for the first time proposed that a new scheme should be designed and implemented on trial basis in select Textile Clusters. I was leading the MIMA delegation in that meeting. Participat- ing in the debate we said that owing to the challenges and diffi- culties which the weavers were facing it would not be possible to modernize the entire 22.5 lakh plain looms all at onceas the gov- ernment wished. Simultaneously, as a parallel solution to the prob- lem the industry was facing because of discarded machineries, we proposed that the Ministry of Textiles along with the Technology Upgradation Funds Scheme (TUFS) should also provide financial support to the weavers, who were not in a position to buy new modern machines, in upgradingtheir existing plain looms and con- verting them into Semi-Automatic looms. The proposal was received with a lukewarm response while the officials insisted on replacing all running plain looms with new rapi- er, water-jet, air-jet or other machineries to meet what they called the looming global challenges. Sometimes in 2009 the Planning Commission of India again called a meeting with the same agenda. Interestingly, the Minis- try of Textiles could not present any significant improvement in its data of 2007 and the number of modern machines remained more or less the same. By this time we had summed up all the minute details of our proposal, also adding to it the necessary data to show its feasibilityand an overview of the expected results the industry would get after the plain looms were converted into Semi-Auto- matic looms. After a heated discussion, it was finally agreed upon that the proposal should be thoroughly studied and a draft of the proposed scheme should be prepared on emergency basis. After a series of meetings at Textile Commissioner Office in Mumbai and with active support from Additional Textile Commis- sioner S Balaraju and his juniors a draft of the scheme was finally prepared which after some amendment was launched in October 2013 as “Pilot Scheme on In-situ Upgradation of Plain Powerloom for SSI Powerloom Sector”. The scheme was initially launched in six clusters – Malegaon and Nagpur in Maharashtra, Bhagalpur in Bihar, Burhanpur in Mad- hya Pradesh, Sircilla in Andhra Pradesh and Tanda in Uttar Pradesh, on pilot basis. However, Bhiwandi and Ichalkiranji – two of the country’s major textile clusters, were also added in the list later on. As per the scheme, the Ministry of Textiles agreed to bear the 50% cost of the updragation kit worth Rs.30,000/- to be fitted in one plain loom. It was also agreed that a weaver would need to install these upgradation kits in at least 08 looms which are running in a single shed.The kit in itself included weft stop motion, warp stop motion, semi positive let-off motion, efficient braking device, and in some cases self-lubricating nylon parts, anti-crack device and dobby. Soon after the Ministry of Textiles launched the In-situ scheme, the Maharashtra government also flung into action and agreed to provide special subsidy of Rs.10,000/- per upgradation kit, taking the total amount of government fund to Rs.25,000/- for a kit cost- ing Rs.30,000/- By all accounts, the decisions by Ministry of Textiles, New Delhi and Government of Maharashtra were momentous for the textile industry and the weavers across the six clusters were enthusiastic. During the implementation mode things became simpler after the Ministry of Textiles agreed to transfer the subsidy amount directly to the account of registered suppliers instead of giving them to the weavers. According to a rough estimate, more than 10,000 looms in the eight clusters were ready for upgradation within one month of the launch of the In-situ scheme. The weavers just needed to pay Rs.5000/- per kit and their plain looms were convertedinto Semi- Automatic machines. Fast installation of the kits, improved quality of fabrics and increased production all lured more and more weav- ers to fall inline and go for upgradation. The officials of the Textile Commissioner Office, especially Ravi Kumar, Subbayyan S, T Nagraj and DP Sharma were all seen shuttling from one textile cluster to another to make things easier for the weavers and kit suppliers. The then Textile Commissioner Kiran Soni Gupta, Additional Textile Commissioner S Balarajuand others were all overwhelmedby the response. Everything was going on quiet smoothly, in fact beyond every- A little effort by Maharashtra Govt can still make In-situ Scheme a game changer Mr. Aleem Faizee MARKET REPORT
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    26 March 2017www.textilevaluechain.com one’sexpectation. Thencame the shocker, and it was something nobody in the industrywas prepared to face. The Central Govern- ment had released its share of the funds to the suppliers. But, the Maharashtra government after releasing funds initially could not do so citing “technical” reasons, forcing the suppliers to stop sup- ply of the kits. Installation of the kits going on with significant pace came to a sudden halt. This was in 2015 and the situation remains so even today. But, if the Maharashtra government still takes a decision and step to release the dues of the suppliersclearing the technical hur- dles, the In-situ scheme could again be brought on track and made to work as game changer in the time of existing crisis.For, the fab- rics produced on the plain looms fitted with In-situ upgradation kits are still in demand and the suppliers, almost broken becauseof the long delay in the release of their money, too are ready to give the implementation of the scheme one more chance. “We have incurred huge losses because of the delay. But, we are still ready to work with the Ministry of Textiles if our dues are cleared, and assurance is given that whatever happened in the past would not be repeated again”, a supplier said on the condition of anonymity. CMAI Organised a Seminar on Labour Law Important Acts The Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI) organised a Seminar by Mr Talakshi Dharod of M/S T R Dharod of Labour Industrial Law Consultant, on Labour Laws, Important Acts such as ESI, PF, Bonus and Gratuity, on March 3, 2017, at Koshish Hall, Daftary Road, Malad (E), which was attended by more than 200 Garment Manufacturers. “The Indian Economy is now moving towards becoming a Cashless Economy and it is nec- essary that the Apparel Indus- try brings transparency in their Business,” said Mr Dharod. He captured the attention of more than 200 Garment Manufactur- ers who had gathered to hear him speak on Matters related to Employees’ State Insurance Cor- poration (ESIC), Employees Prov- ident Fund (EPF), Payment of Wages to Labour, etc. ESIC: Em- ployees’ State Insurance Scheme is a social security system tailored to provide socio-economic pro- tection to Employees and their dependants covered under the Scheme. Mr Dharod said that the ESIS is mandatory when an Gar- ment Manufacturer has more than 10 Employees (Gross salary upto R21,000/- p.m.) if not implemented, he could face arrest. The Gar- ment Manufacturer is liable to pay 4.75 per cent of the gross salary as his Contribution for every Employee and deduct 1.75 per cent as the Employee’s contribution from the wages bill and pay these con- tributions to the ESIC. The ESIC benefits that an Employee can avail are: Medical Benefit, Sickness Benefit, Maternity Benefit, Disable- ment Benefit, Dependants’ Benefit and Funeral Expenses. EPF: Mr Dharod said that the EPF Act is mandatory when the Garment Man- ufacturer has more than 20 employees. The Garment Manufacturer is liable to pay 13.36 per cent of the gross salary as his contribution for every employee and deduct 12 per cent as the employee’s con- tribution. The benefits for the employee are: Accumulation plus Interest upon retirement, resignation or death. Partial withdrawals allowed for specific expenses such as marriages, ill- ness, education, etc. In case of death, his Family will get a month- ly pension. Mr Dharod also brief- ly touched upon the Payment of Bonus Act and Gratuity Act. The Seminar ended with a Q A ses- sion wherein Mr Dharod answered the queries of the Members. Today ‘Solar Energy’ has established itself as one of the most potential non-conventional energy resources to steadily replace conventional energy sources such as the hydro electricity and ther- mal power, as the production of conventional energy is not likely to meet future electricity demand of the world. The availability of natural fuel such as coal, gas, oil is limited and also the power generation using that fuel creates pollution into the atmosphere. There are plenty of other environment friendly sources such as sun- light and air which are rarely being used to generate power. Many organizations have already started thinking about the alternative energy resources and embracing solar energy. Besides being cost effective the technology also saves the planet as it is complete pol- lution-free. In view of the above scenario and also for promoting ‘Green Power’, Northern India Textile Research Association, popularly known as NITRA, Ghaziabad, has decided to install Grid-connected Roof-top Solar Power Plant at its building. The plant is estimated to be fulfilling about 60%-70% of NITRA’s total power consumption in first phase. This effort, in turn, will also reduce the pollution which is quite prevalent in NCR and would help NITRA comply with its social responsibility. In addition to that, this move will encourage the textile and garment units to install solar power plant, many of those have already installed in their units. NITRA Embraces Green Power, Goes the Solar Way! MARKET REPORT
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    27March 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com India’soverall export grow for 5th straight month India’s merchandise export was up in January 2017 with value at US$22.11 billion (INR150,560 crore), up 4.32 per cent (5.6 per cent higher in INR terms) compared to the levels in January 2016. Total exports for the period April-January 2016-17 was up 1.09 per cent at US$220.92 billion (INR1,484,473 crore, up 4.5 per cent) over the same period last year. Imports in January 2017 were valued at US$31.96 billion (INR217,557 crore) and were 10.7 per cent higher (12.1 per cent higher in INR terms) over the level of imports in Janu- ary 2016. Cumulative imports for the period April-January 2016-17 was at US$307.31 billion, down 5.8 per cent (INR2,065,656 crore, down 2.6 per cent) over the same period last year. Crude oil imports were up 61.1 per cent in January 2017 and fell 5.8 per cent during April-January 2016-17. In similar comparison, non-oil imports were 0.01 per cent higher in January 2017 and 5.8 per cent lower in April-January 2016-17. As a result, trade deficit for April-January, 2016-17 was at US$86.39 billion, which was lower than the deficit of US$107.74 bil- lion in April-January, 2015-16. India’s yarn export to china rises in January Spun yarn exports in January 2017 surged 22.6 per cent in vol- ume terms and rose 29.7 per cent in value terms. Spun yarn (all kinds) shipments were at 136.4 million kg worth US$386.8 million or INR2,600 crore, implying per unit realization of US$2.84 per kg which was up US cent 1 from previous month and rose US cents 16 as compared to January 2016. India’s yarn import to China continued to increase in January, however yarns from Pakistan to China were more slightly dropping in the meantime whereas products from Vietnam and Indonesia were still stable. A. Spun Yarn Exports - By Port ‘000 Kgs Rs crore Mln US$ Jan-16 Jan-17 Jan-16 Jan-17 Jan-16 Jan-17 Mundra 18,965 34,460 322.4 632.7 48.36 94.11 Tuticorin Sea 16,170 24,529 335.9 505.0 50.34 75.11 JNPT 17,727 21,891 316.2 417.4 47.42 62.08 Madras Sea 15,662 15,442 244.0 275.7 36.58 41.00 Pipavav 7,432 12,181 127.3 235.1 19.08 34.97 Marripalam ICD 2,744 5,680 40.4 96.8 6.06 14.39 Mandideep 3,329 4,246 65.6 87.8 9.84 13.06 Krishnapa- tanam 610 4,710 8.3 81.4 1.24 12.10 Cochin Sea 3,744 2,842 84.0 72.2 12.57 10.73 Ludhiana ICD 13,930 1,813 250.9 35.7 37.63 5.30 Nagpur 977 1,967 15.7 32.0 2.36 4.76 Petrapole Road 2,120 1,302 46.0 31.6 6.91 4.70 Vizag Sea 911 1,786 13.6 29.3 2.03 4.35 Kattupalli 590 1,057 8.6 23.7 1.28 3.52 Delhi TKD ICD 3,721 1,104 63.6 12.7 9.55 1.89 Tuticorin ICD 417 468 9.5 12.4 1.43 1.84 Hyderabad ICD 1,143 465 18.3 9.9 2.75 1.48 Ahmedabad ICD 571 398 10.2 7.6 1.52 1.13 Tondiarpet ICD 532 60 7.9 1.1 1.18 0.16 Ankleshwar 19 0.4 0.05 Grand Total 1,11,296 1,36,420 1,988.5 2,600.4 298.14 386.75 In January 2017, 87 countries imported spun yarn from India, with China at the top accounting for 35 per cent of the total value with imports surging 56.1 per cent in terms of volume YoY and ris- ing 69.9 per cent in value YoY. Bangladesh was the second largest importer of spun yarns in January and accounted for around 13.8 per cent of all spun yarn exported from India. Export to Bangladesh declined 13 per cent in volumes and 2.1 per cent lower in value. Pakistan was the third largest importer of spun yarns, which saw volume rising 83.4 per cent while it was up 98 per cent in value. These three top importers together accounted for around 55.9 per cent of all spun yarns exported from India in January. Cotton yarn export was at 117.6 million kg in January with 77 countries importing yarn worth US$336.0 million (INR2,259 crore). The average unit price realization was at US$2.86 a kg, down US cent 1 from previous month and up US cents 19 from the same month a year ago. China was the largest importer of cotton yarn from India in Jan- uary, followed by Bangladesh and Pakistan. The top three together accounted for more than 62 per cent of cotton yarn with combined volume at 76.1 million kg worth US$208.9 million. Hong Kong, USA, Thailand, Brazil and Ukraine were among the fastest growing markets for cotton yarn, and accounted for 5.7 per cent of total cotton yarn export value. Eighteen new destinations were added for cotton yarn export, of which, North Korea, Chile, Russia and Denmark were the major ones. Five countries did not import any cotton yarn from India, includ- ing Finland, Costa Rica, Sudan and Honduras. They had imported yarns worth US$0.69 million in January 2016. In January 2017, sig- nificant deceleration was seen in export to Argentina, Romania, United Arab Emirates, France and Canada. Combed cotton yarn accounted for 59.3 per cent of cotton yarn exported in January with volumes at 63.1 million kg worth US$199.2 million. Carded yarn export was at 37.9 million kg. Their respec- tive unit value realization was US$3.16 per kg and US$2.55 per kg. Open ended yarn export was at 8.4 million kg at an average price of US$1.78 a kg. YnFx Export watch report – February 2017 Vidya Vadgaonkar Email: Vidya@ynfx.com Tel: +91 22 66291122 Mobile: +91 9619 293725 YARN REPORT
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    28 March 2017www.textilevaluechain.com Manmadefibre yarns export continueS uptrend 100% man-made fibre yarns export was at 7.2 million kg in Janu- ary, comprising 3.90 million kg of polyester yarn, 2.59 million kg of viscose yarn and 0.70 million kg of acrylic yarn. Polyester yarn exports were up 29.7 per cent in value while viscose yarn exports value rose 13.4 per cent during the month. Acrylic yarn exports plunged 56.5 per cent in January. Unit price realization was up US cents 3 a kg for polyester from a year ago and that of viscose yarn fell US cents 2 a kg. Acrylic yarn unit price realization declined US$0.86 a kg year on year basis. Polyester spun yarns were exported to 39 countries in Janu- ary aggregating US$8.5 million with unit price realization averag- ing US$2.19 a kg. A total of 3.90 million kg was exported, of which, 22.2 per cent was shipped by Turkey alone. Eleven new destinations were found for polyester yarn this January, of which, Canada, Nige- ria, Myanmar and Tunisia were the major ones. Viscose yarn export was valued at US$7.85 million or INR52.8 crore and volume at 2.59 million kg, implying average unit price realization of US$3.03 per kg. They were exported to 22 countries with Belgium at the top worth US$2.44 million. It was followed by Brazil with imports worth US$0.99 million. Both these markets ac- counted for 42.9 per cent of all viscose yarn exported in January. Morocco, Poland, Belgium, Egypt and Italy were the fastest grow- ing markets for viscose yarns while Brazil, Portugal, Guatemala, South Africa and Ukraine were the new major markets. Pakistan, Saudi Arabia and Turkmenistan did not import any viscose yarns during the month. Blended yarns export falls Blended spun yarns export was worth US$32.9 million in Janu- ary, down 6.5 per cent YoY while volumes were down 7.1 per cent at 11.62 million kg. During the month, 5.5 million kg of PC yarns was exported worth US$14.4 million. Another 4.1 million kg of PV yarns valued at US$10.8 million were exported. Acrylic/cotton yarn prices were down 3 per cent YoY. In January, 1.64 million kg of other blend of yarns were exported worth US$6.4 million. Bangladesh and Brazil were the largest importers of PC yarn from India in January followed by Egypt. Romania, South Africa, Belgium, Ukraine and South Korea were the fastest growing mar- kets for PC yarns while Turkey and Australia significantly reduced its import of PC yarns from India. Djibouti, Philippines, Venezuela and United Kingdom were among the 10 countries that did not import any PC yarns from India during January. Brazil and Italy were the major destination among the 8 new markets found in January. In January, US$10.84 million worth of PV yarns were exported from India with volumes at 4.1 million kgs. Turkey continued to be largest importer of PV yarns from India followed by Vietnam with total volume at 2.24 million kg worth at US$5.7 million. Vietnam and Brazil were the new major markets for PV yarn while 8 countries did not import any PV yarn during the month, including the major ones like Uganda and Morocco. Filament yarns export increases In January, all types of filament yarns export aggregated 39.8 million kg, up 26.9 per cent YoY while value rose 24.9 per cent to US$62.2 million. Filament yarns include polyester, nylon, polypro- pylene and viscose filament yarns and were exported to 73 coun- tries during the month. More than 89 per cent of filament yarns were of polyester, of which, DTYs were the largest at 75.1 per cent. B. Fibre Exports - By Port ‘000 Kgs Rs crore Mln US$ Jan-16 Jan-17 Jan-16 Jan-17 J a n - 16 Jan-17 Mundra 51,519 1,24,749 506.6 1,410.6 75.98 209.92 JNPT 56,494 91,912 539.5 1,031.9 80.92 153.55 Petrapole Road 15,598 22,553 157.6 266.9 23.67 39.71 Pipavav 11,075 12,433 109.0 142.1 16.36 21.14 Ankleshwar 693 859 7.9 11.3 1.17 1.68 Nagpur 864 1,018 5.7 7.1 0.86 1.06 Hyderabad ICD 519 7.1 1.06 Vizag Sea 4,077 462 38.3 5.4 5.77 0.81 Tuticorin Sea 109 240 2.0 4.4 0.30 0.65 Krishnapa- tanam 9,031 307 85.9 3.3 12.89 0.49 Tuticorin ICD 94 2.5 0.38 Ludhiana ICD 548 67 5.6 1.2 0.85 0.18 Ahmedabad ICD 18 0.2 0.04 Madras Sea 200 26 0.3 0.1 0.04 0.02 Cochin Sea 0 0.0 0.00 Marripalam ICD 149 1.4 0.21 Grand Total 1,50,356 2,55,259 1,460.0 2,894.3 219.03 430.69 During the month, 38.1 million kg of polyester filament yarns were exported worth US$55.6 million. Turkey and Bangladesh continued to be the major importers of polyester filament yarns, followed by Brazil. The three together accounted for 41.1 per cent of polyester filament yarn exports Brazil was also the major im- porter of polyester DTYs while Turkey was the major importer of PFYs. Sri Lanka was the major importer of nylon filament yarn in Janu- ary with volumes at 95,790 kg worth US$0.5 million. In value terms, USA and Vietnam were the other largest markets for nylon filament in January, worth US$0.4 million. Polypropylene filament yarns were exported to 17 countries in January with volumes at 270,000 kg worth US$0.56 million. USA was the major importer of PP yarns. Sri Lanka and Oman were the other major importers of PP filament yarns in January. Around 1,067,000 kg of viscose filament yarns were exported in January to 21 countries from India valued at US$4.25 million. During the month, 177,000 kg of VFYs were exported to Japan. It was fol- lowed by USA and Czech Republic. Cotton export surge in January Cotton fibre export was at 244.8 million kg or 14,39,801 bales (of 170 kg each) in January which surged 77.2 per cent YoY and was valued at US$415.7 million, up 106.9 per cent. Bangladesh and Pakistan were the largest importers of cotton with combined vol- umes at 8,37,081 bales amongst the 27 countries that imported cot- YARN REPORT
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    29March 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com tonfrom India. Exports of manmade fibre were at 10.5 million kg, worth US$15.03 million. These included ASF, PSF, VSF and PPSF. Bangla- desh and USA were the largest importers of PSF during January while Pakistan and USA were also the major importers of VSF, in similar comparison. Mexico was the dominant buyer of ASF. C. Filament Exports - By Port ‘000 Kgs Rs crore Mln US$ Jan-16 Jan-17 Jan-16 Jan-17 Jan-16 Jan-17 JNPT 26,916 34,886 265.7 349.2 39.87 51.94 Nagpur 3,017 3,422 23.6 28.1 3.54 4.17 Tuticorin ICD 389 472 15.7 17.4 2.34 2.59 Mundra 444 312 8.5 6.2 1.27 0.92 Tuticorin Sea 280 217 10.0 5.6 1.49 0.83 Pipavav 148 176 4.1 4.3 0.61 0.64 Ahmedabad ICD 67 192 1.4 3.5 0.21 0.52 Madras Sea 23 80 1.1 1.9 0.16 0.29 Tondiarpet ICD 7 0.7 0.10 Cochin Sea 14 0.3 0.04 Delhi TKD ICD 48 13 1.0 0.2 0.15 0.03 Kattupalli 7 0.2 0.03 Ankleshwar 15 16 0.2 0.2 0.03 0.03 Ludhiana ICD 5 9 0.1 0.1 0.02 0.02 Petrapole Road 18 0.6 0.08 Grand Total 31,369 39,821 331.8 417.9 49.78 62.16 YARN REPORT POST EVENT REPORT Mumbai based Indian Society for Cotton Improvement (ISCI) awarded its fellowship to renowned cotton scientist, Dr. Keshav Raj Kranthi, Director of ICAR-Central Institute of Cotton Research (CICR), Nagpur on March 7, 2017 in recognition of his outstanding contribution in the field of cotton research development and on his appointment as Head, Technical Co-ordination Section of the In- ternational Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC), Washington (D.C.), USA. A felicitation function on this occasion was jointly organized by Indian Society for Cotton Improvement (ISCI), ICAR- Central In- stitute for Research on Cotton Technology (CIRCOT), Confedera- tion of Indian Textile Industry–Cotton Development Research As- sociation (CITI-CDRA) and South Asia Biotechnology Centre (SABC). Dr. P.G. Patil, Director, ICAR- CIRCOT welcomed all the dignitaries and guests and apprised them about the significant achievements of the institute. The fellowship was awarded to Dr. Kranthi by Pad- ma Vibhushan Dr. Anil Kakodkar, Former Chairman, Atomic Energy Commission Secretary to Govt of India who applauded the contri- bution of Dr. Kranthi in the field of cotton development in India and wished that he would continue his achievements in the new assign- ment. Shri Suresh Kotak, Trustee of Kotak Research Foundation, Mumbai and Chairman, ISCI, praised the contributions of cotton re- searchers and suggested for development of improved methodolo- gies to increase the cotton productivity since the land availability is limited in India. Dr. C.D. Mayee, Former Chairman, ASRB and Presi- dent, ISCI presided over the function and congratulated Dr. Kranthi for his key role played in linking the Government and Industry with the cotton growing farmers. Dr. Kranthi, in his award acceptance speech, thanked all the well-wishers and promised to continue his good work for the progress of Indian cotton community. Dr. A.J. Shaikh, Former Director of ICAR-CIRCOT Secretary ISCI, delivered the vote of thanks. ISCI fellowship award and Felicitation of Dr. K.R. Kranti
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    30 March 2017www.textilevaluechain.com Fourleading textile research institutes in India viz. BTRA, Mum- bai, ATIRA, Ahmedabad, SITRA, Coimbatore and NITRA, Ghaziabad have been organising Joint Technological Conferences over the years. In this annual event, latest finding of the research programs with reference to the latest technological developments are dis- seminated. In this context, 57th Joint Technological Conference was held at BTRA, Mumbai on 17th and 18th February, 2017. Nearly, 300 delegates from industry, trade and academics participated in this conference. The highlight of this conference was one full day on ‘Geosynthetics’, under the sponsorship of Textile Commission- er’s Office, Ministry of Textiles, GoI and the other day was devoted to RD in Emerging Areas, Protective Textiles, Product Develop- ment, Eco-friendly process, etc. related to traditional textiles. The event was inaugurated by Dr. Kavita Gupta, Textile Com- missioner, Ministry of Textiles, GoI. Dr. Kavita Gupta, in her inau- gural address, said that in India only 10% of textile products belong to technical textiles as compared to developed nations such as Germany where 50% of textile products belong to technical textile category. Current market size of technical textiles in India is Rs. 1 lakh crore and the market is growing at 20% CAGR. In order to grow in high value technical textiles segment, we should focus on research that is demand based and market driven. Moreover, abil- ity to translate research output in to commercialisation is the need of the hour. She stressed the importance of the link between aca- demia and the industry. Dr. Anjan K. Mukhopadhyay, Director, BTRA welcomed the dignitaries and the delegates. He briefed the audience about this conference profile and said that one full day was devoted to ‘Geo- synthetics’ that could open up an avenue for the conventional tex- tile manufacturers to interact with Geosynthetics manufacturers/ users to know the opportunities available in terms of machinery, processes, etc. to make technical textile products, especially geo- synthetics. He also said German Textile Machinery Manufacturing Companies have also taken part in this conference by way of pres- entations on needle-felt nonwoven and latest machine innovations on treatment of Geotextiles. Mr. Narendra Dalmia, Deputy Chairman, Governing Coun- cil, BTRA presided over the inaugural session. In his presidential speech, he talked about the research projects of all four TRAs cur- rently in progress and their findings as well as the operational per- formance. He said that innovation is the key word and this is where the Research Associations play an important role and appreciated excellent work done by all the four TRAs to help the industry in its goal to have better operational efficiency. Mr. Rajesh Nath, the Managing Director for VDMA in India made the Key note address introducing VDMA, Textile Machinery and the solutions and competence of VDMA members also in the area of machinery, plants and components for geotextiles applications. This year, VDMA completes 125 years with its presence in Germany. With the theme of the event being Geotextiles, he spoke about Geotextiles being ambitious textile products that are tailor-made according to the intended application. Depending on application, the soil quality has also to be considered when choosing geotex- tile material. Nonwovens, woven and warp-knitted geotextiles, ge- ogrids, of all geotextiles used around the world, nonwovens were estimated to make up over 65 % in terms of area. In order to pro- duce tailor-made geotextiles, appropriate machinery is needed and VDMA can guide the industry to the right manufacturers as per the requirement. Dr. C.R. Prayag, Officiating Director, ATIRA proposed vote of thanks. First day proceedings In this two-day conference, first day was allotted exclusively for ‘Geosynthetics’ and personnel from geosynthetics manufactur- ers, users of geosynthetics and TRAs presented their papers. There were 5 technical sessions in the first day. In the first session, chaired by Mr. S. Bagli, Chief Technology Officer, Strata Geosystems, Mumbai, two papers were presented. One is on ‘Geosynthetics: Challenges in using in Navi Mumbai pro- jects’ by Prof. Anand.R. Katti, Professor, Datta Meghe College of Engineering, Navi Mumbai Managing Director, Nagar Yuwak Shi- kshan Sanstha, Airoli and another on ‘Application of Geosynthetics in Canals’ by Mr. Vivek P. Kapadia, Chief Engineer Addl. Secretary, Water Resource, Gandhinagar, Gujarat. The papers were well re- ceived by the audience and good interaction was seen during ques- tion and answer session. In the second session, two papers were presented. This session was chaired by Mr. Vivek P. Kapadia, Chief Engineer Addl. Secre- tary, Water Resource, Gandhinagar, Gujarat. The first paper was on Proceedings of 57th Joint Technological Conference POST EVENT REPORT
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    31March 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com ‘Metalnet covered sand fill bags for erosion and flood control’ by Ms. Sonal Kulkarni, Maccaferri Environmental Solutions Pvt. Ltd. , Gurgaon and second one was on ‘Geosynthetic systems for coastal erosion control with case reference of Alleppay Kerala’ by Mr. Ro- hit Chaturvedi, Vice President Business Development, Flexituff In- ternational Ltd., Madhya Pradesh. The third session was chaired by Mr. Guru Vittal, Chief Scientist, CRRI, New Delhi. The following three papers were presented. • Strengthening of road subgrade and slope stabilization using Jute Geosynthetics-Mr. Pradip Kr. Choudhury, Principal Tech- nologist, National Jute Board, Kolkata • Geogrids for retaining walls – Mr. Satish Naik, Chief Executive Officer ,Best Geotechnics Pvt. Ltd, Mumbai • Geostrap for RE walls – Mr. Mangesh Shinde, Divisional Head (South West Region), Reinforced Earth India Pvt. Ltd., Navi Mumbai Prof. A. R. Katti, Professor, Datta Meghe College of Engineer- ing, Navi Mumbai Managing Director, Nagar Yuwak Shikshan Sanstha, Airoli, chaired the fourth session. Two papers viz., (i) Re- habilitation for existing landfills – Mr. Aditya Agarwal, CEO, Jeevan Products, Navi Mumbai and (ii) Hydraulic properties of geo-textiles: An experimental study - M/s. Seema Patel, R.V. Chikhani, Rajesh Pa- tel and Jignesh Patel, ATIRA, were presented. In the fifth session, Prof. S.G. Vinzenekar, Ex. Principal, VJTI, Mumbai chaired the proceedings. The following three papers were presented in this session. • Challenges and potentials of using Geosynthetics in Road and Bridges by Mr. P.L. Bongirwar, Retired Principal Secretary, PWD • Vacuum PVD for fast soil stabilization by Mr. V.V. Vaishampayan, Managing Director, Soham Foundations, Navi Mumbai • Geotechnical expertise at BTRA by Mr. Sri Ramchandran, BTRA Second day proceedings In the second day, there were 7 technical sessions. Papers from all four TRAs were presented in the areas of protective tex- tiles, emerging areas, spinning, product development, eco-friendly products, etc. In the end, there was a special session by German Textile Machinery (VDMA), in which two papers were presented. The focus of the First session was ‘Emerging Areas’ chaired by Dr. M.K. Talukdar, Kusumgar Corporates Pvt. Ltd., Mumbai. There were three papers in this session and all were from BTRA. Titles were as follows. • Use of electron beam irradiation for solution of biodegrada- tion enhancement in textile industry by M/s. Smita Deogaonkar, Megha Patel, BTRA and Kaushlesh P. Rawat, BARC • Development of silver coated electro-conductive cotton fabric using electron beam radiation technology by M/s. Kumar Krish- nanand and Amol G. Thite ,BTRA • Adhesion improvement of coated textiles by atmospheric plas- ma treatment by M/s. Pratik Joshi and Shital Palaskar ,BTRA In the second session, following two papers related to ‘Protective Textiles’ were presented. Dr. A.K. Rakshit, Executive Director, ITTA, Mumbai chaired the proceedings. • Protective textiles to protect against electromagnetic radiation - M/s. Pawan Sharma, Seema Patel and C.S. Vora , ATIRA • Development of work wear for workers working in cement in- dustry - M/s. M.S. Parmar, Shweta Saxena, Vasundhara Verma and Satypriya Dash (M/s Arvind Ltd) [NITRA] Prof. S.G. Vinzenekar, Ex. Principal, VJTI, Mumbai chaired the third session on ‘Spinning’. The following three papers were pre- sented. • A new approach on study of twist contraction levels in modern ring spinning process by M/s. D. Jayaraman and V. Vijayajothi ,SI- TRA • Influence of combing of polyester/cotton blended material on yarn quality compared to the traditional processes by M/s. D. Jayaraman and N. Vittopa, SITRA • Achievable levels of UKG in modern spinning mills (Present and Future scenario) by M/s. N. Vasanth Kumar and S. Chandira- soodan ,SITRA Chairman of the fourth session was Dr. Anirban Guha, Associate Professor, IIT Bombay and the session topic was ‘Product Develop- ment’. The following three papers were presented. • Concept paper on development of nano-fibre based water filtra- tion device for human beings by Mr. Chetan Mahajan, ATIRA • Electronic drape tester based on image analysis technique by M/s. Arindam Basu, Sanjeev Shukla, Krishan Dewan and Paurush Godhar, NITRA • Development of smoothness testers for finished fabrics by M/s. M.S. Parmar, Nidhi Sisodia, Maheshwar Singh and Vasundhara Verma, NITRA In the fifth ‘General’ session, the following three papers, dealing with spinning productivity, garment work practices and water conservation in textile wet processing, were covered. Prof. S.G. Vinzenekar, Ex. Principal, VJTI, Mumbai chaired this session. • Productivity in spinning mills-2016 (based on SITRA’s 33rd Pro- ductivity Survey) by M/s. J. Sreenivasan and P. Subash, SITRA • A study of work practices in Indian garment factories by M/s. Vivek Agarwal, M.M. Tiwari, Shweta Saxena, Kushagra Prakash and M.K. Bansal, NITRA • Practical approaches for water conservation in textile wet pro- cessing by M/s. Tanaji Kadam and M.S. Kulkarni, BTRA Prof. D.P. Chattopadhyay, Professor, M.S. University, Vadodara chaired the sixth session on the topic of ‘Eco-friendly Products’. There were two papers and the same are given as follows. • Eco-friendly jute reinforced composite based toilet with bio- digester by M/s. Kiran Dev, T. Gangopadhyay, Ashok Kumar, M. Karthigeyan, Pravin Patel, K.K. Misra, C.S. Vora and S.S. Rathod, AITRA • Development of infant baby clothings using ecomordant and natural dyes on cotton fabric with antibacterial activity by M/s. K. H. Prabhu, S. Sivakumar and E. Prakash, SITRA In the last session, personnel from German Textile Machinery (VDMA) presented the following two papers. • Mr Hjalmar Schwab, Sales Manager, DILO Systems on “Latest technique and technology for the production of needle felted nonwovens and their applications” • Mr Juergen Hanel, Business Development Manager-Technical Textiles, A. Monforts Textilmaschinen on “Latest machine inno- vations for treatment of Geotextiles“ In the end, Dr. Anjan K. Mukhopadhyay, Director, BTRA thanked all those who have contributed for the success of this event. POST EVENT REPORT
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    32 March 2017www.textilevaluechain.com Australiancotton delegation to explore cooperation between Australia India in textile and cotton An eight member Australian cotton delegation is visiting India between 27th February to 3rd March 2017. The delegation rep- resenting the Australian Cotton Shippers Association (ACSA) is meeting with textile manufacturers and spinning mills in Ludhiana, Mumbai and Coimbatore. The delegation is visiting to bolster opportunities for export- ing high quality Australian cotton to India. India has consistently purchased Australian cotton year-on-year, but last year’s mon- soonal conditions and the resulting smaller Indian crop resulted in increased demand for Australian cotton by Indian mills to maintain production. Australia produced 626.2 KT of cotton lint valued at A$1,412.7 million in 2016. In 2016, The International Cotton Advisory Commit- tee ranked Australia as the fifth largest exporter behind USA, India, Brazil and Uzbekistan. China, India, Vietnam, Bangladesh and Indo- nesia are major buyers of Australian cotton with Australian cotton exports to India this past year valued at A$ 335.6 million. Australian cotton has been well received by Indian mills and ap- preciated for its superior quality characteristics, consistent quality and zero contamination. The Australian cotton industry invests enormous resources into breeding better varieties and agronomic practices to produce cot- ton fibre that has excellent quality characteristics and is grown in a sustainable manner. Added to this, researchers have developed procedures and tools to assess spinning ability and fibre attributes with a focus on improved spinning and dyeing ability. Speaking about the delegation, Mr Gregory Harvey, Trade Com- missioner, Australian Trade Investment Commission said, “Aus- tralia is a leading supplier of high quality fibre to global markets. Australia has an enviable reputation as a reliable supplier of very high quality cotton. Australian cotton exporters have been long term and reliable suppliers to India’s textile industry. We are look- ing to growing this relationship as India’s cotton textile manufac- turing continues to grow”. Australian Cotton Shippers Association Chairman Mr Matthew Bradd stated that Australian merchants are very excited to be vis- iting India and sharing the Australian cotton story. “Australia is a leading supplier of high quality fibre to the world market. Added to this we have a whole-of-industry commitment to continue to improve on every area of production with best management prac- tices applied to the entire supply chain from cotton growing to gin- ning and classing right through to export.” For more information about the delegation and partnering with Australian cotton industry, please contact Anirban Deb, Australian Trade and Investment Commission at +91 11 4575 6224 or at Anir- ban.Deb@austrade.gov.au Australian cotton delegation in India KEY CHALLENGES FACING AUSTRALIA’S COTTON INDUSTRY Cotton Australia represents the interests of growers across significant challenges that face the industry, including: WATER As with any cropping industry, ac- cess to water is vital for cotton production. The industry has delivered a 40% improvement in water use efficiency over the past decade, utilising significant investment in watereffi- cient irrigation infrastructure and practices. Further efficiency improvements continue to be a key focus for the industry. Cotton Austral- ia works with both Federal and StateGovern- ments to ensure the reliability and security of water property rights are not undermined and water access remains affordable. ENERGY Cotton growers and other irrigators have been subject to sustained electricity price rises, in some cases up to 300% since the year 2000 (with inflation at less than 50% over the same period). The primary causes are network tariff increases. Cotton Australia works with governments, regulators, networks and retail- ers to ensure affordable access to electricity. The industry also relies very heavily on diesel for its production and is a very strong advocate for maintaining the Diesel Fuel Rebate. The industry also recognises that it must strive for energy efficiency and has invested heavily in energy efficiency research and extension. TRANSPORT Agriculture is high-tech but seasonal, re- quiring the movement of specialised equip- ment at time-critical points in order to avoid losses and guarantee efficiency. Cotton Aus- tralia advocates for a regulatory regime that allows forthe cost effective movement of equipment and produce. LABOUR Appropriately skilled workers can be in short supply in many regional areas, creating inefficiencies, cost to businesses and stifling productivity. Cotton Australiafocuses on en- suring that there is a skilled workforceavail- able to meet all the demands of the industry. MINING / CSG Cotton Australia works with federal and state legislators and regulators to take strong steps to protect water and land resources and the land access rights of our growers. This in- cludes ensuring that there is an appropriate regulatory framework, transparency within the approvals process and support for the en- forcement of conditions of consent through adequate resourcing of compliance staff and funding of prosecutions. COST OF PRODUCTION One of the biggest challenges facing any farmer is managing the costs of production, and the cotton industry is no exception. On top of expensive energy, growers must man- age high input costs such asbiotechnology, diesel fuel, additional irrigation water (ifre- quired, and available), on top of high-value ma- chineryrequired to sow and pick the harvest. Cotton Australia works with suppliers and regulatorsto ensure input costs remain afford- able and do not threaten the viability of Aus- tralia’s cotton industry. EVENT REPORT
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    33March 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com EVENTREPORT I love this world because it is imperfect. It is imperfect, and that’s why it is growing; if it was perfect it would have been dead. by Osho “ “
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    34 March 2017www.textilevaluechain.com “ThinkTaiwan for Textiles”, a slogan that has taken on many meanings, whether you are looking for textile innovation, fashion, sustainability or just reliable consistent communication, Taiwan is the place to start and finish. The Taiwanese textile industries have been long time leaders in the development of environmentally friendly concepts and are leaders in recycled polymer and polymer blends. From yarns for ap- parel, industrial and sport accessories, recycled yarns are growing in importance and are a core part of the Taiwan textile industry. Eco friendly, sustainable practices have become a core back- ground of Taiwan textile development. However, innovation is still the critical glue that keeps it all together. New products are what keep the engine going, making the value proposition irresistible. Fashion as part of function and eco-friendly textiles is an im- portant factor. Fashion is taking on new meanings as smart textiles and wearable tech products flood our lifestyle. The proximity and close ties of the Taiwan technical products industry helps lead the way. Ranging from smart metallic yarns, heat sensitive color phase finishes and heating and cooling textiles coordinated with battery and energy conserving processes, the ideas and potential seems limitless. Fashion in apparel and casual sport yoga inspired sports- wear is evident as this market is expanding. New yarn develop- ments allowing multiple looks and textures are driving innovation. Soft, crisp, vibrant or mellow, inspired market looks and touches are there. Mixtures of new technologies and fashion allow new de- sign elements that were hard to imagine in the past. Polymer based yarn developments in polyester, nylon, recycled and blended with natural fibers lead the way. You can have the look and feel of natu- ral fiber fabrics with the performance and flexibility of synthetics. Comfortable, breathable, wind and water resistant textiles mixed and matched in breathtaking design elements. Add in odor control and a myriad of product enhancements allowing new and innova- tive design directions bringing the consumer endless options. The final piece of the Taiwan textile value equation is the ver- tical integration of many of its core textile suppliers into the fin- ished garment business. Garments for yoga, outdoor, fleece and traditional woven apparel and knits of all types can be sourced directly with Taiwanese companies that have facilities in multiple international locations designed to deliver the quality and price you need, made in the geographic area that works best for the various companies tax and or policy initiatives that fits your needs. Taiwan brings a designed integrated flexibility in apparel from a group of innovative world class textile companies. The strongest growing category in apparel today is the classi- fication of casual sport. Garments that look good working out in a gym and at the same time get you to the mall, work or just relaxing at home. The broad product offerings, technical attributes and fab- ric flexibility puts the Taiwan industry in a unique position. No other place has everything you need so compactly organized in the realm of a huge dynamic textile market, Taiwan has it all. Taiwan textile manufacturers are promoting sustainability, tech- nological innovation and new functionalities textiles at TECHNO- TEX 2017 Thanks to a surge in global demand for sustainability, techno- logical, innovation and new functionalities textile, Taiwan’s textile manufacturers are surfing the wave by catering to the wellness generation, getting the production more cost-effective and going greener. At TECHNOTEX 2017, TTF will bring an exhibiting delegation of 8 Taiwan excellent textile suppliers and ‘Taiwan Select’ will display the highlights of participant exhibitors. The Taiwan Select is un- der the Textile Export Promotion Project”, which is commissioned by the Bureau of Foreign Trade. Moreover, the sourcing support for buyers as well as manufacturers and the updated Taiwan Tex- tile industry information will be available at Taiwan Select. Please visit Taiwan Select (booth no. 42.2) and Taiwan Pavilion (booth no.42.1~43.5) for sourcing the innovative, sustainable, reliable products from Taiwan. Event: TECHNOTEX 2017 Date: 12-14 April | Time: 10.00 am to 6.00 pm Venue: Hall V, Bombay Convention Exhibition Centre (BCEC), Goregaon (East), Mumbai-63,India Meet us and get to know us. The Taiwan Textile Industry has made it easier for you to get to know us every year. You can even find us on our informative “Think Taiwan for Textiles “web site http://365.textiles.org.tw for all the latest TTF news and events. Think Taiwan for Textiles - The best sourcing hub for functional eco-textiles The Department of Textile Manufacturing has announced its technical fest Vastra’17 at the premises of Veermata Jijabai Tech- nological Institute (VJTI), Matunga, Mumbai on April 8, 2017. VJTI is one of the premier engineering institutes in India with a legacy spanning 128 years. The technofest Vastra has a history of being a confluence of visionary alumni students and corporate leaders from the field of textile science. This year, Vastra will be opening new avenues for interaction among textile enthusiasts from all across the country. The theme for the year is technical textiles. The organizers plan to showcase global trends in the fields of eco-textiles and nano-textiles. The focus will also be on the ways in which Indian ecosystem is keeping pace with these trends. Vas- tra’17 is powered by ITME. The tech fest will witness among other events, competitions like technical quiz, paper on poster presentation, product market- ing and spontaneous sketching. Vastra aims at providing a platform for students across India to engage with textile technocrats and win prizes worth Rs 50,000. The event is authorized by Dr.V.D. Gotmare (HOD of Textile Manufactures Department) and Dr. D.P.Kakad (Staff Co-Ordinator) for VASTRA’17. The event is organized by Shantan Raybage (Overall Co-Ordinator) and Sameer Memon (General Secretory). VEERMATA JIJABAI TECHNOLOGICAL INSTITUTE ORGANISES VASTRA 2017 EVENT EVENT REPORT
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    35March 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com ARVINDAND INVISTA “DECODE” THE FESTIVE COLLECTION FASHION SHOW SHOWCASES THE MULTIFACETED NATURE OF DENIM The denim giant and the largest fiber producer, Arvind Invis- ta, are bringing their latest in innovation, design and sustainability for the Indian market. Arvind andInvistahave teamed up to launch the Festive collection for 2017- DECODE. Thisfresh and ultramodern collection is showcased in form of a spectacular display and a flam- boyant runway show hosted at The Lalit, Mumbai choreographed by well-known choreographer Sheetal Sharma. The festive’17 show DECODE, highlights the multifaceted na- ture of denim fabrics. It is said that denim remains as one of the most interesting, complex yet evolving fabrics of all time. In this show, Arvind and Invista unravel its mysterious personality and de- code the denim language to discover its different aspects and its deep underlying meaning. The fashion show showcased an innovative line of Flip den- ims (reversible denims), Azurite (Arvind’s patented technology of premium saturated indigo fabrics), 360 degree MUTANTS™ (multidirectional stretch knit denims) and XL MUTANTS™ (wider width knits for better production efficiencies) to name a few. It showcases a collection of DENIM EXPRESS™ which is a speed to market solution of versatile fabrics that are always in vogue – a much needed requirement of the industry. The collection fur- ther extends to popular Arvind categories of BLUE NATIVES™, NEOBUBBLE™,BOOMERANG™ along with the bestsellers across the market. Other than the fashion show, the highlight was also the display for Khadi denim collection. Arvind recently received much appre- ciation globally for this phenomenal sustainable fabric. Arvind won the prestigious Global Denim Award for best fabric in October’16 at Amsterdam. The participants for the award included the top mills of the world like Candiani and Prosperity. Arvind and Invistaare now synonymous in the Industry for bringing out innovative technologies for the consumers. All Arvind stretch denims are powered by LYCRA® fiber and also include other Invista specialty products like COOLMAX® Everyday fabric, COOL- MAX® ALL SEASON Fabric and CORDURA® fabrics. These products with their strong performance properties provide a set of unique comfort and durability to the garments – a deeply desired feature by the end consumers. On this occasion, Mr.Aamir Akhtar, CEO, Denim Fabrics, Arvind Limited, commented, We today are here to showcase “Decode” the festive collection. Arvind Ltd every year comes up with new in- novations in denim fabric and I promise today that we will be com- ing up with new innovations in fabric every year. I thank Invista for believing in us and being there with us through this journey.” EDITORS NOTES About Arvind Limited Arvind Limited is one of India’s largest integrated textile and apparel companies with a strong retail presence. Arvind is also the pioneer of denim in India with a turnover of around US$1.3 bil- lion in FY2015-16. Arvind has an unmatched portfolio of owned, licensed brands and retail formats. The company’s own product brands include Megamart (recently rebranded as Unlimited), Flying Machine, Colt, Ruggers, Excalibur among others while its licensed product brands have big global names like GAP, Arrow, Gant, Izod, Elle, Cherokee, US Polo Assn, The Children’s Place and Sephora, to name a few. It has a joint venture in India with global majors Tom- my Hilfiger and Calvin Klein. About INVISTA With leading brands including LYCRA® fiber, COOLMAX®, COR- DURA®, STAINMASTER® and ANTRON®, INVISTA is one of the world’s largest integrated producers of chemical intermediates, polymers and fibers. The company’s advantaged technologies for nylon, spandex and polyester are used to produce clothing, carpet, car parts and countless other everyday products. Headquartered in the United States, INVISTA operates in more than 20 countries and has about 10,000 employees. For more information, visit INVISTA. com, Facebook.com/INVISTAglobal and Twitter.com/INVISTA. BRAND FOCUS
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    36 March 2017www.textilevaluechain.com A.T.E.joins hands with Jingmei for sales and service of circular knitting machines in India and Bangladesh A.T.E. has joined hands with Quanzhou Jingmei Machine Co., Ltd. to sell “Jingmei” brand circular knitting machines in India (ex- cept in Ludhiana city) and Bangladesh effective from February 2017. Jingmei is a well-known brand from China having already sold hundreds of circular knitting machines in India, Bangladesh, and other parts of the world which include China, Brazil, Mexico, In- donesia, Turkey, Pakistan, South Africa and Italy. The company is now wholly owned by the world renowned Santoni Group of Italy. Jingmeimanufactures the entire range of circular knitting machines in body size from 13” to 24”, as well as large diameters from 25” onwards upto 44” from 12G upto 40G, which include single jersey, three thread fleece, double jersey in rib and interlock, spacer fab- ric, auto striper in 4 and 6 colours, jacquard, striper jacquard, mat- tress ticking fabric, terry and reverse terry in tubular as well as open width configurations. High leg frames are also available on request. Of the production capacity of more than 1000 machines annu- ally at Jingmei, 30% of the production is dedicated to exports, and the percentage is growing year on year. Jingmei has a unique R D facility at its factory in Xiamen, to offer better products to its cus- tomers through continuous innovation. A single jersey tubular machine with 4 feeders/inch, 34” dia. and 28G has been installed in A.T.E.’s Surat showroom as a demo unit for customers, as well as to produce samples to convince custom- ers on the quality of deliverables on Jingmei machines. Excellent service support is available both from A.T.E. and Jin- gmei across India and Bangladesh. Certain essential spares shall also be maintained with A.T.E. for immediate distribution to the customers. Jingmei, which showcased its machines at the Knit-tech exhi- bition, Tirupur, and DTG 2017, Dhaka, in February 2017 has caught the attention of the knitting fraternity for its technical prowess and engineering excellence. The A.T.E.-Jingmei combination is now all set to provide the best-in-class products and services to the discerning customers in India and Bangladesh. (from left Mr Dinesh Singh – Infinite, Mr. Ronen Hagin – Vice Presi- dent and Co-founder, Datatex, Mr G V Aras – Director, A.T.E. and Mr James Pates – A.T.E.) A.T.E.’s strategic partnership with Datatex builds client base for ERP in Indian textile industry A.T.E. joins hands with Jingmei for sales and service of circular knitting machines in India and Bangladesh A.T.E. has joined hands with Quanzhou Jingmei Machine Co., Ltd. to sell “Jingmei” brand circular knitting machines in India (ex- cept in Ludhiana city) and Bangladesh effective from February 2017. Jingmei is a well-known brand from China having already sold hundreds of circular knitting machines in India, Bangladesh, and other parts of the world which include China, Brazil, Mexico, In- donesia, Turkey, Pakistan, South Africa and Italy. The company is now wholly owned by the world renowned Santoni Group of Italy. Jingmeimanufactures the entire range of circular knitting machines in body size from 13” to 24”, as well as large diameters from 25” onwards upto 44” from 12G upto 40G, which include single jersey, three thread fleece, double jersey in rib and interlock, spacer fab- ric, auto striper in 4 and 6 colours, jacquard, striper jacquard, mat- tress ticking fabric, terry and reverse terry in tubular as well as open width configurations. High leg frames are also available on request. Of the production capacity of more than 1000 machines annu- ally at Jingmei, 30% of the production is dedicated to exports, and the percentage is growing year on year. Jingmei has a unique R D facility at its factory in Xiamen, to offer better products to its cus- tomers through continuous innovation. A single jersey tubular machine with 4 feeders/inch, 34” dia. and 28G has been installed in A.T.E.’s Surat showroom as a demo unit for customers, as well as to produce samples to convince custom- ers on the quality of deliverables on Jingmei machines. Excellent service support is available both from A.T.E. and Jin- gmei across India and Bangladesh. Certain essential spares shall also be maintained with A.T.E. for immediate distribution to the customers. Jingmei, which showcased its machines at the Knit-tech exhi- bition, Tirupur, and DTG 2017, Dhaka, in February 2017 has caught the attention of the knitting fraternity for its technical prowess and engineering excellence. The A.T.E.-Jingmei combination is now all set to provide the best-in-class products and services to the discerning customers in India and Bangladesh. BRAND FOCUS
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    37March 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com FirstEuropean Digital Textile Conference at Texprocess Exhibitors present the latest digital-printing technologies Colour and function: digital textile printing is one of the focal- point themes at this year’s Texprocess. For the first time, the World Textile Information Network (WTiN) is holding the European Digital Textile Conference at Texprocess. And there will be a separate lec- ture block on digital printing in the programme of the Texprocess Forum. Moreover, the Digital Textile Microfactory in Hall 6.0 will present a textile production chain in action - from design, via digital printing and cutting, to making up. As well, numerous exhibitors, including Brother, Epson, Ergosoft and Mimaki, will be showing digital printing technologies. ‘We are expanding our programme on the subject of digital printing in response to the growing demand for digitalised tech- nologies for processing garments, technical textiles and flexible materials. This programme is of particular interest to manufactur- ers of technical textiles and companies that process textiles’, says Michael Jänecke, Head of Brand Management, Textiles and Textile Technologies, Messe Frankfurt. Elgar Straub, Managing Director, VDMA Textile Care, Fabric and Leather Technologies: ‘Thanks to digital textile printing, it is now possible to print apparel, shoes and technical textiles directly. Giv- en the general trend towards individualisation, demand for individ- ualised products is increasing in the apparel industry. This is turning digital textile printing into one of the future oriented technologies for companies that process garments and textiles.’ European Digital Textile Conference at Texprocess In cooperation with Texprocess and Techtextil, the World Tex- tile Information Network (WTiN) will hold the European Digital Tex- tile Conference at Texprocess for the first time. The focus of the conference will be on digital textile printing for adding functional and decorative features to technical textiles. The WTiN European Digital Textile Conference will take place in ‘Saal Europa’ of Hall 4.0 from 09.00 to 16.30 hrs on 10 May. Tickets for the conference can be obtained from WTiN underhttps://www.digitaltextileconfer- ence.com/edtc2017/ The subjects to be covered in the lectures include direct yarn colouring in the embroidery plants (Coloreel, Sweden), plasma pre-treatment for textiles before digital printing (GRINP, Italy) and chemical finishing for textiles using inkjet printing technology (EFI- REGGIANI, USA). Texprocess Forum to spotlight digital printing technology Digital printing technology will also be the subject of a sepa- rate lecture block at Texprocess Forum. At this international con- ference, experts from science and industry will focus on the latest findings relating to subjects of major importance to the sector in over 30 lectures and panel discussions on all four days of the fair. Texprocess Forum is free of charge for visitors of Texprocess and Techtextil and will be held in Hall 6.0. For the first time, three part- ner organisations are organising the lecture blocks: DTB - Dialogue Textile Apparel, the International Apparel Federation (IAF) and the World Textile Information Network (WTiN). Digital Textile Microfactory In cooperation with the German Institutes of Textile and Fibre Research Denkendorf (DITF) and renowned textile companies, Tex- process presents the complete interlinked textile production chain - the Digital Textile Microfactory - live in Hall 6.0. The digital-printing station shows large-scale inkjet printing in the form of sublimation printing on polyester and pigment printing on cotton and blended fabrics. Production orders can be combined flexibly and printed colour consistently with a variety of printing parameters. Ensuring optimum printing results at this station are hardware and software partners, Mimaki and Ergosoft, and Coldenhove and Monti Anto- nio. In addition to the Microfactory partners, other renowned com- panies, including Brother and Epson, will be showing state-of-the- art printing processes for textiles and apparel at Texprocess. Digital-printing outlook Originally developed for fashion fabrics, digital textile printing is also used for printing technical textiles, such as sports clothing, and textiles for the automobile industry whereby the primary focus is on functionalising textiles. For example, swimwear can be made more colour fast to resist frequent contact with water and chlorine, and exposure to the sun. Also, textiles can be finished by apply- ing chemicals via an inkjet printer and thus be given dirt-repellent, antimicrobial and fire-retardant properties. Additionally, using an inkjet printer in the finishing process is advantageous in terms of sustainability and efficiency. Texprocess is being held concurrently with Techtextil, Inter- national Trade Fair for Technical Textiles and Nonwovens, for the fourth time (also from 9 to 12 May 2017). Altogether, 1,662 exhibi- tors from 45 countries and 42,000 trade visitors came to Frankfurt am Main for the 2015 editions of Texprocess and Techtextil. Over 13,300 trade visitors attended specifically for Texprocess. They were supplemented by another 7,600 from the concurrent Tech- textil. Digital textile printing a focal-point theme at Texprocess EVENT REPORT “Friendship is the purest love. It is the highest form of Love where nothing is asked for, no condition, where one simply enjoys giving.” ― Osho
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    38 March 2017www.textilevaluechain.com April2017 2-5 Textyle Expo 2017 Place : Oran/ Algeria, info: www.textyle-expo.com 4-7 INDEX 17 Place : Geneva/ Europe, nfo: www.edana.org 6-8 Fibers Yarns 2017 Place : Mumbai/ India, info: www.fibersnyarns.com 8th VASTRA Place : Mumbai/ India, info: vastrasummit@gmail.com 7-9 Garfab –TX Place : Surat/ India, info: www.verdaanevents.in 8-10 International Apparel Textile Fair Place: Dubai/ UAE, info: www.internationalapparelandtextilefair.com 12-14 Technotex 2017 Place : Mumbai/ India, info: www.technotexindia.in 14-16 Textile Expo 2017 Place : Surat / India, info: www.textileexposurat.com 19-21 TPF Digital Printing Place: Shanghai/ China, info: www.cstpf.com 22nd Opportunity in current challenge in Weaving Sector Place: Vapi/ Gujarat, info: www.textileassociationindia.com May 2017 9-12 TECHTEXIL /TEXPROCESS Place : Frankfurt/ Germany , info: http://techtextil.messefrankfurt.com 16-18 BCI Global Cotton Conference Place : Berlin/ Germany, info: vinay.kumar@bettercotton.org 22nd Planet Textile Place: Bangalore / India, info: www.planet-textiles.com 22-23 3rd Defense –ITTA Exhibition Conference Place : Delhi / India, info: www.ittaindia.org June 2017 7-8 EurAsian Geotextile Symposium Place : Beijing / China, info: www.edana.org/education-events/conferences- and-symposia 8-10 Non Woven Tech 2017 Place : Mumbai/ India, info: www.nonwoventechasia.com 8-10 Fashion Connect / HOMTEX PLUS Place: Banglore/ India, info: www.fashionconnect.co.in , www.homtex.in SHOW CALENDAR 13-15 China Yiwutex International Textile Machinery 2017 Place : PR China, info: www.yiwutex.com 20-22 HEIMTEXTIL – INDIA Place: Delhi/ India, info: http://heimtextil-india.in.messefrankfurt.com 30- 2nd July The Textile India Conclave and Exhibition Place : Gandhinagar / Gujarat, info: CII /Textile Ministry July 2017 4-6 HGH INDIA Place : Mumbai/ India, info: www.hghindia.com 5-8 GFT 2017 Place : Bitex/Bangkok, info: www.gftexpo.com 20-22 YARNEX 2017 Place: Delhi/ India, info: www.yarnex.in 20-22 FA SHOW Place : Delhi/ India, info: www.fnashow.in 29-31 GARTEX 2017 Place : Delhi/ India info: http://gartexindia.com August 2017 18-20 GTE – AHMEDABAD Place: New Delhi/ India, info: www.garmenttechnologyexpo.com September 2017 13-15 TechTexil India 2017 Place : Mumbai/ India, info: http://techtextil-india.in.messefrankfurt.com 21-23 YARNEX / TEXINDIA Place : Tirupur/ India, info: www.yarnex.in , www.texindiafair.com October 2017 29-31 Screen Print East Africa Place: Nairobi/ Kenya, info: www.screenprinteastafrica.com November 2017 15-17 INTEX South Asia Place: Colombo/ Srilanka, info: www.intexfair.com 17-20 Texfair 2017 Place: Coimbatore / India, info: texfair@simamills.org 22-25 YFA SHOW 2017 Place : Delhi/ India, info: www.yfatradeshow.com December 2017 7-10 ITMACH INDIA/ ITS Exhibition Place : Gandhinagar / Gujarat , info: www.ITMACH.com / www.ITSexhibition.com
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    39March 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com 39March2017 www.textilevaluechain.com
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    41March 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com Experiencethe textile industry of the future. Which innovations are changing this sector? Techtextil combines today’s fascinating tex- tile opportunities with a vision of tomorrow. Come and discover exciting prospects for sales and revenue in the world of sports and leisure. info@india.messefrankfurt.com Tel. +91 22 61 44 59 00 Leading International Trade Fair for Technical Textiles and Nonwovens in parallel with: CONNECTING THE FUTURE techtextil.com 9–12.5.2017, Frankfurt am Main German products enjoy a very high reputation at the international clothing industry. The worldwide leading specialist for high qual- ity ironing covers VOMATEX Germany is going to present the wide range of heat and pressure resistant foams, felts and textiles at the Texprocess fair which will be held in Frankfurt a.M, Germany, from 9.-12. May. Since 1968 the VOMATEX high German quality products are mainly used on industrial ironing tables and presses as well as fusing ma- chines in clothing factories. Besides these articles are suitable for many other applications like textile bonding, fusing, thermo trans- fer printing and bending in industries like shoe, glass, aluminium, furniture, advertising and many others. Today the ironing covers market faces worldwide competition, es- pecially by new suppliers from China, but all attempts to reach the superior price/cost ratio of high German quality covers from VOMA- TEX failed so far. Every international clothing factory and machine manufacturer is looking for a cost saving purchase of ironing covers, but cheap imi- tations are no solution. They do not last as long as VOMATEX high quality products and they quickly lose shape, elasticity and perme- ability, which is corrupting the look and the value of the clothing. Moreover inferior imitations cause more machine breakdown time which disturbs the continuous production process and costs more money than saved at the cheap purchase. Technicians, engineers and purchase managers who realized this correlation replaced the inferior covers with high quality articles from VOMATEX and did not only save cost but also improved the ironing result and the rating of their products. If you are looking for heat and pressure resistant coverings it is worth to visit VOMATEX on Texprocess in hall 6.0, booth B 60. (www.vomatex.de) German high quality products for ironing
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    43March 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com GSA Venue: The Exhibition Centre, Helipad Ground, Sector-17, Gandhinagar, Gujarat, India December 20177 8 9 10 SPACE BOOKING: Arvind Semlani Cell: +91 9833977743 | Email: info@ITMACH.com Cell: +91 9867127598 | Email: info@itsexhibition.comRadhika Boddu Cell: +91 9426012207 | Email: bhadresh@kdclglobal.comBhadresh Mistry Bhavesh Thakar Cell: +91 9375322449 | Email: allgujaratspinnersassociation@gmail.com
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    45March 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com Innovation•Sustainability • Relability Taiwan Select at 42.2 Taiwan Pavilion at 42.1~43.5 TECHNOTEX 2017 Date: 12-14 April | Time: 10.00 am to 6.00 pm Venue: Hall V, Bombay Convention Exhibition Centre (BCEC), Goregaon (East), Mumbai-63 TECHNOTEX 2017 Date: 12-14 April | Time: 10.00 am to 6.00 pm Venue: Hall V, Bombay Convention Exhibition Centre (BCEC), Goregaon (East), Mumbai-63
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    46 March 2017www.textilevaluechain.com SIRIUSTWISTING TECHNOLOGY Sirius represents the Savio proposal in the field of traditional Two-for- one twisting, ensuring high structural standardization, a wide range of feeding and spindle dimensions for every yarn type and count. The electronic solutions simplify the operator intervention, allowing to obtain every possible combination of parameters in order to reach the best output working condition. SIMPLE, RELIABLE STATE OF THE ART TWISTING Cosmos represents a further Savio proposal in the field of traditional Two-for-one twisting, ensuring maximum cost-effectiveness of the technological process through manufacturing solutions that allow a reduction in investment with a minimum of energy consumption. In this way, the machine productivity, the quality of the end product, the technological flexibility are maximized together with low investment cost. SAVIO MACCHINE TESSILI S.P.A. 33170 PORDENONE (Italy) Via Udine, 105 www.saviospa.com SAVIO INDIA LTD Nallattipalayam, Tamaraikulam Post Pollachi, Coimbatore 642109 Tamil Nadu, India Phone : +91 4259 304555 Fax : +91 4259 304567 www.savioindia.com Excellence through time Excellence through time
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    47March 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com Ourcustomers benefit from our sustainable e-save solutions for the production of manmade fibers within growth markets like textile and apparel, infrastructure, transportation, food, energy and electronics. “ Georg Stausberg, CEO Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Segment From Melt to Yarn, Fibers and Nonwovens It all starts with a few chemicals. Transforming these into smart clothing, technical textiles or tire cord requires great ideas, outstanding equipment and sophisticated processes. Oerlikon Manmade Fibers engineers support you in ensuring that your entire project is a total success. We will accompany you on your journey from chemical product to manmade fibers. From engineering and polycondensation to spinning, texturing and nonwoven production. From Melt to Yarn, Fibers and Nonwovens. For further information visit us at www.oerlikon.com/manmade-fibers Follow us on Facebook! www.facebook.com/OerlikonBarmag www.facebook.com/OerlikonNeumag
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