Waves And Tides 16 2 Ppt Vocab
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Waves are characterized by their height, wavelength, and period. Wave height is the vertical distance between crests and troughs, wavelength is the horizontal distance between two crests or troughs, and period is the time it takes for one full wave to pass a fixed position. Fetch, the distance wind blows over open water, increases both wave height and steepness as wind transfers energy to water. Tides are regular changes in ocean elevation caused by gravitational forces from the moon and sun, with spring tides having the greatest range and neap tides having a lesser range every two weeks.
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This document discusses various coastal landforms and processes. It describes how waves, currents, erosion and deposition shape coastlines. Key points include:
- Waves erode cliffs and platforms while deposition builds beaches, spits and bars.
- Longshore drift transports sediment parallel to the shore, while rip currents carry it seaward.
- Refraction of waves around headlands forms bays. Erosion of headlands produces arches, stacks and tunnels.
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The document discusses various coastal landforms created by erosion and deposition processes along shorelines. It describes landforms such as headlands and bays, cliffs and wave-cut platforms, caves, arches, stacks, and stumps which are formed by coastal erosion. Beaches and spits are landforms created by coastal deposition, with beaches forming in sheltered areas between high and low tide lines, and spits forming as narrow ridges projecting from the coast due to longshore drift depositing materials.
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The document discusses different types of eclipses including solar and lunar eclipses. A solar eclipse occurs when the moon passes between the earth and sun, blocking the sun from view. A lunar eclipse occurs when the earth passes between the sun and moon, casting the moon in earth's shadow. The document provides details on the different types of solar and lunar eclipses as well as explanations for why eclipses do not occur every month and why the moon appears red during a lunar eclipse.
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- 2. Wave Height The very top of the wave is the crest and the water that separates the waves is called the troughs. The vertical distance between trough and crest is called the wave height.
- 3. Wavelength The horizontal distance between two successive crests or two successive troughs is called wavelength.
- 4. Wave Period The time that it takes one full wave—one wavelength—to pass a fixed position is the wave period.
- 5. Fetch Fetch is the distance that the wind has traveled across open water. The energy of the wind is transferred to the water and it increases both the height and steepness of the waves.
- 6. Tides Tides are regular changes in the elevation of the ocean surface. They are the rhythmic rise and fall along the coastline.
- 7. Tidal Range The tidal range is the difference in height between successive high and low tides. When the gravity of the sun and the moon are combined that produces a large tidal range.
- 8. Spring tides Spring tides are the tides that have the greatest tidal range due to the alignment of the Earth—moon—sun system.
- 9. Neap Tides The sun and the moon partially offset the influence of the other and as a result, the daily tidal range is less. Each month there are two neap tides and two spring tides, each about one week apart.
- 10. Where do Ocean waves obtain their energy? Most ocean waves obtain their energy from the wind. The greater the wind speeds the larger the waves.
- 11. Three factors that affect the characteristics of a wave The height, length and period that are eventually achieved by a wave depend on three factors… 1-wind speed 2-length of time the wind has blown 3-fetch
- 12. How does energy move through a wave? Circular orbital motion allows energy to move forward through the water while the individual water particles that transmit the water to move around in a circle. This movement results in a circle that returns an object to the same place in the water.
- 13. What causes tides? Ocean tides result from differences in the gravitational influence upon different parts of earths surface by the sun, but much more by the moon.